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NORTH-EASTERN     FACADE     AND     GRAND     ENTR/ 
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1 


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TO 
THE   RIGHT   HONORABLE 

THE    EARL    GRANVILLE 

€litii  Dnlnnn  is  D^ltiiahit, 

IN  ADMIRATION  OF  HIS  PUBLIC  CHARACTER, 

AND  AS  A  GRATEFUL  ACKNOWLEDGMENT  OF  MANY  ACTS  OF 

PERSONAL  FRIENDSHIP. 


PREFACE. 


Many  unavoidable  delays  have  prevented  the  earlier 
publication  of  this  volume.  I  can  no  longer  appeal,  as  in 
the  preface  of  my  former  work,  to  the  indulgence  of  my 
readers  on  the  score  of  complete  literary  inexperience ; 
bat  I  can  express  heartfelt  gratitude  for  the  kind  and 
generous  reception  given,  both  by  the  press  and  the  pub- 
lic, to  my  first  labors.  I  will  merely  add,  that  the  follow- 
ing pages  were  written  at  different  periods,  and  amid  nu- 
merous interruptions  but  little  favorable  to  literary  occu- 
pations. This  must  be  my  apology,  to  a  certain  extent, 
for  the  many  defects  they  contain. 

Since  the  publication  of  my  first  work  on  the  discover- 
ies at  Nineveh  much  progress  has  been  made  in  decipher- 
ing the  cuneiform  character,  and  the  contents  of  many 
highly  interesting  and  important  inscriptions  have  been 
given  to  the  public.  For  these  additions  to  our  knowl- 
edge we  are  mainly  indebted  to  the  sagacity  and  learn- 
ing  of  the  two  English  scholars.  Col.  Rawlinson  and  the 
Rev.  Dr.  Hincks.  In  making  use  of  the  results  of  their 
researches,  I  have  not  omitted  to  own  the  sources  from 
which  my  information  has  been  derived.  I  trust,  also, 
that  I  have  in  no  instance  availed  myself  of  the  labors 
of  other  writers,  or  of  the  help  of  friends,  without  due 
acknowledgments.  1  have  endeavored  to  assign  to  every 
one  his  proper  share  in  the  discoveries  recorded  in  these 
pages. 


rREFACI. 


I  am  aware  that  several  distinguished  French  scholars, 
amongst  whom  I  may  mention  my  friends,  M.  Botta  and 
M.  de  Saulcy,  have  contrihuted  to  the  successful  decipher- 
ing of  the  Assyrian  inscriptions.  Unfortimately  I  have 
been  unable  to  consult  the  published  results  of  their  in- 
vestigations. If,  therefore,  I  should  have  overlooked  in 
any  instance  their  claims  to  prior  discovery,  I  have  to  ex- 
press my  regret  for  an  error  arising  from  ignorance,  and 
not  from  any  unworthy  national  prejudice. 

Doubts  appear  to  be  still  entertained  by  many  eminent 
critics  as  to  the  progress  actually  made  in  deciphering  the 
cuneitbrm  writing.  These  doubts  may  have  been  con- 
firmed by  too  hasty  theories  and  conclusions,  wliich,  on 
subsequent  investigation,  their  authors  have  been  the  first 
to  withdraw.  But  the  unbiassed  inquirer  can  scarcely 
now  reject  the  evidence  which  can  be  brought  forward  to 
confirm  the  general  accuracy  of  the  interpretations  of  the 
inscriptions.  Had  they  rested  upon  a  single  word,  or  an 
isolated  paragraph,  their  soundness  might  reasonably  have 
been  questioned ;  when,  however,  several  independent  in- 
vestigators have  arrived  at  the  same  results,  and  have  not 
only  detected  numerous  names  of  persons,  nations,  and 
cities  m  historical  and  geographical  series,  but  have  found 
them  mentioned  in  proper  connection  with  events  recorded 
by  sacred  and  profane  writers,  scarcely  any  stronger  evi- 
dence could  be  desired.  The  reader,  I  would  fain  hope, 
will  come  to  this  conclusion  when  I  treat  of  the  contents 
of  the  various  records  discovered  in  the  Assyrian  palaces. 

I  have  endeavored  to  introduce  into  these  pages  as  many 
illustrations  from  the  sculptures  as  my  limits  would  admit. 
1  have  been  obliged  to  include  the  larger  and  more  elab- 
orate drawings  of  the  bas-reliefs  in  a  folio  volume,  which 
will  form  a  second  series  of  the  Monuments  of  Nineveh, 


PREFACE. 


TU 


and  will  be  published  at  the  same  time  as  the  present 
work. 

I  trust  it  may  not  be  inferred  from  any  remark  I  have 
been  induced  to  make  in  the  following  pages,  that  1  have 
any  grounds  of  personal  complaint  against  the  Trustees 
of  the  British  Museum.  From  them  I  have  experienced 
uniform  courtesy  and  kindness,  which  I  take  this  oppor- 
tunity of  acknowledging  with  gratitude ;  but  I  can  not  at 
the  same  time  forbear  expressing  a  wish,  felt  in  common 
with  myself  by  many  who  have  the  advancement  of  na- 
tional education,  knowledge,  and  taste  sincerely  at  heart, 
that  that  great  establishment,  so  eminently  calculated  to 
promote  this  important  end,  should  be  speedily  placed 
upon  a  new  and  more  efficient  basis. 

To  Mr.  Thomas  Ellis,  who  has  added  so  much  to  the 
value  of  my  work  by  his  translations  of  inscriptions  on 
Babylonian  bowls,  now  for  the  first  time,  through  his  sa- 
gacity, deciphered ;  to  those  who  have  assisted  me  in  my 
labors,  and  especially  to  my  friend  and  companion,  Mr. 
Hormuzd  Rassam,  to  the  Rev.  Dr.  Ilincks,  to  the  Rev. 
S.  C.  Malan,  who  has  kindly  allowed  me  the  use  of  his 
masterly  sketches,  to  Mr.  Fergussou,  Mr.  Scharf,  and  to 
Mr.  Hawkins,  Mr.  Birch,  Mr.  Vaux,  and  the  other  officers 
of  the  British  Museum,  I  beg  to  express  my  grateful 
thanks  and  acknowledgments. 
LowkMi,  Janoaiy,  1808. 


Vwj* 


I  from  NljnniQd, 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

The  Trustees  of  the  British  Moseom  resume  ExcaTations  at  Nineveh. — Depaitore 
from  Constantinople. — Description  of  our  Party. — Cawal  Yusuf  —  Roads  from 
Trebizond  to  Erzeroom. — Description  of  the  Country. — Varzahan  and  Armenian 
Churches. — Erzeroom. — Reshid  Pasha. — The  Dudjook  Tribes. —  Shahan  Bey. — 
Turkish  Reform. — Journey  through  Armenia. — An  Armenian  Bishop. — The  Lake* 
of  Shaila  and  Nazik.— The  Lake  ofWan Page  1 

CHAPTER  II. 

The  Lake  of  Wan. — Akhlat. — Tatar  Tombs. — Ancient  Remains. — ^A  Dervish — A 
Friend. — The  Mudir. — Armenian  Remains. — An  Armenian  Convent  and  Bishop.— 
Journey  to  Bitlis. — Nimroud  Dagh. — Bitlis. — Journey  to  Kherzan. — Yezidi  Vil- 
lage       19 

CHAPTER  III. 

Reception  by  the  Yezidis. — ^Village  of  Guzelder. — ^Triumphal  March  to  Redwan. — 
Redwan. — Armenian  Church. — Mirza  Agha.-^The  Melek  Taous,  or  Brazen  Bird. — 
Tilleh. — Valley  of  the  Tigris. — Bas-reliefs.— Journey  to  Dereboun — to  SemiL — 
Abde  Agha. — Journey  to  Mosul. — ^The  Yezidi  Chiefs. — ^Arrival  at  Mosul. — Xeno- 
phon's  March  from  the  Zab  to  the  Black  Sea 36 

CHAPTER  IV. 

State  of  the  Excavations  on  my  Return  to  Mosul. — ^Discoveries  at  Kouyunjik.— Tun- 
nels in  the  Mound. — Bas-reliefs  representing  Assyrian  Conquests. — A  Well. — Siege 
of  a  City. — Nature  of  Sculptiires  at  Kouyunjik. — Arrangements  for  Renewal  of  £bc- 
cavations. — Description  of  the  Mound. — Kiamil  Pashai — Visit  to  Sheikh  Adi. — Ye»- 
idi  Ceremonies. — Sheikh  Jindi. — Yezidi  Meeting. — Dress  of  the  Women. — Baviaiu 
—Ceremony  of  the  Kaidi.— Sacred  Poem  of  the  Yezidi. — Their  Doctrines. — Jer- 
raiyah. — Return  to  Mosul 6fi 

CHAPTER  V. 

Renewal  of  Excavations  at  Kouyunjik. — First  Visit  to  Nimroud. — State  of  Ruins. — 
Renew  Excavations  in  Mound. — The  Abou  Salman  Arabs. — Visit  of  Colonel  Raw- 
linaon. — Latiff  Agha. — Mr.  H.  Rassam. — The  Jebour  Workmen  at  Kouyunjik. — 
Discoveries  at  Kouyunjik. — Sculptures  representing  moving  of  great  Stones  and 
Winged  Bulls. — Methods  adopted.  —  Similar  Subject  on  Egyptian  Monument. — 
Epigraphs  on  Bas-reliefs  of  moving  Bulls. — Sculptures  representing  Invasion  of 
Mountainous  Country,  and  Sack  of  City. — Discovery  of  Gateway. — Excavation  in 
high  Conical  Mound  at  Nimroud. — Discovery  of  Wall  of  Stone. — Feast  to  the  Yez- 
idis at  Mosul. — Visit  to  Khorsabad. — Discovery  of  Slab. — State  of  the  Ruins. — 
Futhliyah. — Baazani. — Baasheikhah 80 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Discovery  of  Grand  Entrance  to  the  Palace  of  Kouyunjik — of  the  name  of  Senna- 
cherib in  the  Inscriptions. — The  Records  of  that  King  in  the  Inscriptions  on  the 
Bulls. — An  abridged  Translation  of  them. — Name  of  Hezekiah. — Account  of  Sen- 
nacherib's Wars  with  the  Jews. — Dr.  Hincks  and  Col.  Rawlinson. — ^The  Names  of 
Sargon  and  Shalmaneser. — Discovery  of  Sculptures  at  Kouyunjik,  representing  the 
Siege  of  Lachish. — Description  of  the  Sculptures. — Discovery  of  Clay  Seals — of 
Signets  of  Egyptian  and  Assyrian  Kings. — Cartouche  of  Sabaco. — Name  of  Essar- 
haddon.— Confirmation  of  Historical  Records  of  the  Bible. — Royal  Cylinder  of  Sen- 
nacherib    114 


ooNmrrs. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Road  opened  for  Removal  of  Winged  Lions. — Discovery  of  Vaulted  Drain— of  other 
Arches — of  Painted  Bricks. — Attack  of  the  Tai  on  the  Village  of  Nimroud. — Visit 
to  the  Howar. — Description  of  the  Encampment  of  the  Tai. — ^The  Plain  of  Shoma- 
mok. — Sheikh  Faras. — Wall  Bey. — Retuin  to  Nimroud Page  137 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Contents  of  newly-discovered  Chamber. — A  Well.— Large  Copper  Caldrona. — Bells, 
Rings,  and  other  Objects  in  Metal. — Tripods.— -Caldrons  and  large  Vessels. — Bronze 
Bowls,  Cups,  and  Dishes. — Description  of  the  Embossings  upon  them. — Arms  and 
Armour. — Shields.  —  Iron  Instruments. — Ivory  Remains. — Bronze  Cubes  inlaid 
with  Grold.— Glass  Bowls.— Lens.— The  Royal  Throne 149 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Visit  to  the  Winged  Lions  by  Night. — The  Bitumen  Springs.— Removal  of  the 
Winged  Lions  to  the  River. — Floods  at  Nimroud. — Loss  and  Recovery  of  Lion. — 
Yezidi  Marriage  Festival. — Baazani. — Visit  to  Bavian. — Site  of  the  Battle  of  Ar- 
bela. — Description  of  Rock-Sculptures. — Inscriptions. — ^Tbe  Shabbaks 171 

CHAPTER  X. 

Visit  to  Kalah  Sherghat  prevented. — Visit  to  Shomamok. — Keshaf. — ^The  Howir. — 
A  Bedouin. — His  Mission. — Descent  of  Arab  Horses. — Their  Pedigree. — Ruins  of 
Mokhamour. — The  Mound  of  the  Kasr. — Plain  of  Shomamok. — The  Gla  or  Kalah. 
— Xenophon  and  ihe  Ten  Thousand. — A  Wolf — Return  to  Nimiroud  And  Mosul. — 
Discoveries  at  Kouyuqjik. — Description  of  the  Bas-Reliefs 186 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Preparations  for  a  Journey  to  the  Khabour. — Sculptures  discovered  there. — Sheikh 
Suttum. — His  Rediff. — Departure  from  Mosul. — First  Encampment. — Abou  Kha- 
meera.— A  Storm.— Tel  Ermah.— A  Stranger.- Tel  Jemal.— The  Chief  of  Td 
Afer. — A  Sunset  in  the  Desert. — A  Jebour  Encampment. — The  Belled  Sinjar. — 
The  Sinjar  Hill.— Mirkan.—Bukra.— The  Dress  of  the  Yezidis.— The  Shomal. — 
Osaofa. — Aldina. — Return  to  the  Belled. — A  Snake-Charmer. — Journey  continued 
in  the  Desert. — Rishwan. — Encampment  of  the  Boraij. — Dress  of  Arab  Women. — 
Rathaiyah. — Hawking. — A  Deputation  from  the  Yezidis. — Arab  Encampments. — 
The  Khabour. — Mohammed  Emin. — ^Arrival  at  Arban 19» 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Aiban. — Our  Encampment. — Suttum  and  Mohiunmed  Emin. — Winged  Bulls  discov- 
ered.— Excavations  commenced. — Thehr  Results. — Discovery  of  Small  Objects — 
of  Second  Pair  of  Winged  Bulls — of  Lion— of  Chinese  Bottle — of  Vase — of  Egyp- 
tian Scarabs— of  Tomba.— The  Scene  of  the  Captivitv 890 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

ReiMtence  at  Arban. — Mohammed  Emin's  Tent. — ^The  Agaydat. — Our  Tents. — Bread- 
baking. — Food  of  the  Bedouins. — Thin  Bread. — The  Produce  of  their  Flocks. — Dis- 
eases amongst  them. — Their  Remedies. — ^The  DelonI  or  Dromedary. — Bedouin 
Wwfare. — Suttum's  First  Wife. — A  Storm. — ^Turtles. — Lions. — A  Bedouin  Rob- 
ber.— Beavers. — Ride  to  Ledjmiyat. — A  plundering  Expedition. — Loss  of  a  Hawk. 
— Ruins  of  Shemshani. — A  Tradition. — Jebours  strike  their  Tents. — Return  to  Ar- 
ban.— Visit  to  Moghamis 843 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Leave  Arban.— The  Banks  of  the  Khabour. — ^Artificial  Mounds. — ^MijweD. — The  Cadi 
of  the  Bedouins. — ^The  Thar  or  Blood-Revenge. — Caution  of  Arabs. — ^A  natural 
Cavern. — An  extinct  Volcano. — The  Confluents  of  the  Khabour. — Bedouin  Maries. 
— Suleiman  Agha. — Encampment  at  Um-Jerjeh.  The  Turkish  Irregular  Cavalry. 
— ^Monnd  of  Mydel. — Ruins  on  the  Khabour. — Mohammed  Emin  leaves  us. — Visit 
to  Kurdish  Tents  and  Harem. — The  MilU  Kurds. — ^The  Family  of  Rishwan. — Arab 
Love-MaUng.— The  Dakheel.— Bedouin  Poets  and  Poetry.— Turkish  Cavalry 
Horses 868 


CUNTCN'l'S. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Departure  from  the  Khabonr. — Arab  Sagacity. — ^The  Hci.— The  Lake  of  IQiatoaiii- 
^ib. — Return  of  Snttum. — Encampment  of  the  Shammar. — Arab  Horses — their 
Breeds — their  Value— their  Speed. — Sheikh  Ferhan. — Yeadi  Villages. — Falcons. 
— ^An  Alarm. — Abou  Maria. — Eaki  Mosul. — Arriral  at  ]Momil. — Return  of  Suttum 
to  the  Desert P^ge  874 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Discoveries  at  Kouyunjik. — Procession  of  Figures  bearing  Fruit  and  Game. — Lo- 
custs.—  Led  Horses. — An  Assyrian  Campaign. — Dagon,  or  the  Firii-God. — The 
Chambers  of  Records. — Inscribed  Clay  Tablets. — Return  to  Nimroud. — Effects  of 
the  Flood. — Discoveries. — Small  Temple  under  high  Mound. — The  Evil  Spirit. — 
Fish-God.— Fine  Bas-relief  of  the  King.— Extracts  from  the  Inscription.— Great 
inscribed  Monolith. — Extracts  from  the  Inscription. — Cedar  Beams. — SmaU  Ob- 
jects.— Second  Temple. — MarUe  Figure  and  other  Objects 387 

CHAPTER  XVn. 

The  Summer. — Encampment  at  Kouyunjik. — Visitors. — Mode  of  Life. — Departmre 
for  the  Mountains. — Akra.— Rock-Tablets  at  Gunduk. — District  of  Zibari. — ^Namet 
Agfaa. — District  of  Shirwan — of  Baradost — ofGherdi — of  Shemdina. — Mousa  Bey. 
— Nestorian  Bishop. — Convent  of  Mar  Hananisho. — District  and  Plain  of  Ghaour. 
— Dizza. — An  Albanian  Friend. — Bash-Kalah. — Izzet  Pasha. — A  Jewish  Encamp- 
ment.— High  Mountain  Pass. — Mahmoudiyah. — First  View  of  Wan 814 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Mehemet  Pasha. — Description  of  Wan. — Its  History. — Improvement  in  its  Condition. 
— ^The  Armenian  Bishop. — The  Cuneiform  Inscriptions. — The  Caves  of  Khorkhor. 
— The  Meher  Kapousi. — A  Tradition. — Observations  on  the  Inscriptions. — TaUe 
(>f  Kings  mentioned  in  them. — The  Bairam. — An  Armenian  School. — The  Ameri- 
can Missions. — Protestant  Movement  in  Turkey. — Amikh. — ^The  Convent  of  Yedi 
lOissia 836 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Leave  Wan. — The  Armenian  Patriarch. — The  Island  of  Akhtaroar. — An  Annenian 
Church. — History  of  the  Convent. — Pass  into  Mukus. — The  District  of  Mukua — 
of  Shattak — of  Nourdooz. — A  Nestorian  Village. — Encampments. — Mount  Ararat. 
— Mar  Shamoun. — Julamcrik. — Valley  of  Diz. — Pass  into  Jelu. — Nestorian  District 
of  Jelu. — Afi  ancient  Church. — The  Bishop. — District  of  Baz — of  Tkhoma. — Return 
to  Mosul 858 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Discoveries  at  Kouyunjik  during  the  Summer. — Description  of  the  Sculptures. — Cap- 
tore  of  Cities  on  a  great  River. — Pomp  of  Assyrian  King. — Passage  of  a  River. — 
Alabaster  Pavement. — Conquest  of  Tribes  inhabiting  a  Marsh. — Their  Wealth. — 
Chambers  with  Sculptures  belonging  to  a  new  King. — Description  of  the  Sculp- 
tures.— Conquest  of  the  People  of  Susiana. — Portrait  of  the  King. — His  Guards 
and  Attendants. — The  City  of  Shushan. — Captive  Prince. — Musicians. — Captives 
put  to  the  Torture. — Artistic  Character  of  the  Sculptures. — An  inclined  Passage. 
— Two  small  Chambers. — Colossal  Figures. — More  Sculptures 874 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Preparations  for  leaving  Nineveh. — Departure  for  Babylon. — The  Awai. — Descent 
of  the  River. — Tekrit. — The  State  of  the  Rivers  of  Mesopotamia. — Commerce  upon 
them. — Turkish  Roads. — The  Plain  of  Dura. — The  Naharwan. — Samarrah. — Ka- 
desia. — Palm  Groves. — Kathimain. — Approach  to  Baghdad. — The  City. — Arrival. 
— Dr.  Ross. — A  British  Steamer. — Modem  Baghdad. — Tel  Mohammed. — D^art- 
ure  for  Babylon. — A  Persian  Prince. — Abde  Pasha's  Camp. — Eastern  Falconry. — 
Hawking  the  Gazelle. — Approach  to  Babylon. — ^The  Rnins — ^Arrival  at  Hillah .  897 


Xll 


CONTEKTS, 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Chiefs  of  Hillali— Present  ofLioiis — Tlie  Son  ofthe  Governor. — Description  of 
the  Town.  —  Zaid.  — The  Ruins  of  Babylon.  —  Changes  in  the  Course  ofthe  Eu- 
phrates.— Hie  Walls.  —  Visit  to  the  Birs  Nimroiid,  —  Df^seription  of  the  Rain.;— 
View  from  it. — Excavations  and  Discoveries  in  tlie  Mound  of  Babel — in  the  Mujc- 
liW  or  Kasr. — The  Tree  Alhele.  —  Excavations  in  the  Huiu  of  Amran.  —  BowU, 
with  Inscriptions  in  Hebrew  and  Syriac  Characters. — Translations  ofthe  ]nscri|>- 
Uons, — The  Jews  of  Babylonia Pa^e  416 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
State  ofthe  Ruins  of  Babylon. — Cause  of  the  Disappearance  oi  Buildings. — Nature 
of  orig^itialEdiiit-es. — Babylonian  Bricks. — The  History  of  Babylon. — Its  Fall. — Its 
remarkable  Position. —  Comnierce. —  Canals  and  Roads. —  Skill  of  Babyloiiiana  in 
the  Arts. — £ngrdved  Gems. — Corruption  of  Manners,  and  consequent  Fall  ofthe 
City. — The  Mecca  Pilgrtmage— Sheikh  Ibn  Keshid. — llie  Gehel  Shanunar. — 
Tribes  of  Southern  Mesopotamia.— Tlie  Mounds  of  El  Hy mer — of  Anana 449 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Ruins  in  Southern  Mesop|0iamia.— Departure  from  Hillah. — Sand-Hills. — Villajjes  in 
the  Jezireh. — Sheikh  Karboul. —  Ruins, —  First  View  of  NifTor. — Tlie  Marshes. — 
Arab  Boats. —  Arrive  at  Souk-cl-Afaij. — Sheikh  Agab. — Town  <if  the  Afaij. — De- 
scription ofthe  Rums  of  Niffer. — Excavations  in  the  Mounds. — Discovery  of  Cof- 
fins— of  various  Itehcs. — Mr.  Lotlus'  Discoveries  at  Wurka. — Tlie  Arab  Tribes. — 
Wild  Beasts.— Lions — Customs  ofthe  Afaij. —  Leave  the  Marshes.  —  Return  to 
Baehdad.— A  Mirage 463 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Preparations  for  Departure— Sahiman— Plunder  of  his  Camels — Leave  Baghdad.— 
Journey  through  Mesopotamia. — Early  Arab  Remains. — The  Median  Wall. — Tek- 
rit. — Horses  stolen.— instances  of  Bedouin  Honesty. — Excavations  at  Kalah  Sher- 
^hat. — Reach  Mosul. — Discovenca  during  Absence. — New  Chainbcrs  at  Kouyun- 
jiJt. — Description  of  Bas-reliefs, — Extent  ofthe  Ruins  explored.— Bases  of  Pdlars. 
— Small  Objects  —Roman  Coins  struck  at  Nineveh. — Hoard  of  Denarii. — Greek 
Relics. — Absence  of  Assyrian  Tombs.  —  Fragment  with  Egyptian  Characters. — 
Assyrian  Relics. — Remains  beneath  the  Tomb  of  Jonah — Discoveries  at  Shereef- 
Khan— at  Nimroud. — Names  of  new  Kings. — Assyrian  Weights. — Engraved  Cyl- 
inders  488 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
Results  ofthe  DiscoverieB  to  Chronology  and  History. — Names  of  Assyrian  Kings  in 
the  Inscriptions.— A  Date  fixed  —The  Name  of  Jehu— Tlie  Obelisk  King  —The 
earlier  Kings. — Sardanapalus. —  His  Successors. —  Pul,  or  Tiglatli-Pileser, — Sai- 
gon.— Sennacherib —Essarhaddon.—Tlic  last  Assyrian  Kings. —  Tables  of  proper 
Names  in  the  Cuneiform  Character. — Antiquity  of  Nineveh. — (Xthc  Njme  of  As- 
syria.— lltustralions  of  Scripture. — State  of  Judnaand  Assyria  compared. — Polit- 
ical Condition  ofthe  Empire. — Assyrian  Colonics. — Prosperity  of  the  Country. — 
Religion. — Extent  of  Nineveh. — Assyrian  Architecture  —  compared  with  Jewish. 
— Palace  of  Kouyunjik  restored.— Platform  at  Nimroud  restored. — The  Assyrian 
fortified  laclcaures. — Description  of  Kouyunjik. — ConclusioD Ml 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  PLACING  THE  PLATES  AND  MAPS. 

N.  E.  Fayade  and  Entrance  to  Sennacherib's  Palace,  restored Pronttspieee 

Plan  I  of  excavated  Chambers,  Kouyunjik » tofaetpage  56 

Egyptians  moving  a  Colossus  from  the  Quarries "         97 

Plan  II  ofSquare  Tower  and  Small  Temple "       105 

Planlll      Platform  and  Palaces,  Nimroud "       556 

Map  of  Assyria,  Ac.  > at  the  tnd. 

General  Map  of  Mesopotiunia  ( 


LIST  OF  ENGRAVINGS. 


Rnined  Moaqae  and  Minarets  (Erzeroom).  In  page  1 

Ancient  Annenian  Church  at  Varaahan.  In  page  6 

Tbieahing  the  Corn  in  Armenia.  In  page  16 

Section  of  Wheel  of  Annenian  Cart.  In  page  18 

Annenian  Plough,  near  Akhlat.  In  page  18 

Early  Mussulmian  Tomb  at  Akhlat.  In  page  19 

Turbeh,  or  Tomb^  of  Sultan  Baiandour,  at  Akhlat.  Facing  page  SO 

Yezidi  Women.  In  page  34 

Knrdish  Women  at  a  Spring.  In  page  30 

The  Meiek  Taous,  or  Copper  Bird  of  the  Yezidis.  In  page  40 

Sculptured  Tablet  at  Fynyk.  In  page  45 

Rock  Sculptures  near  Jezireh.  In  page  45 

Mosul,  from  the  North.  In  page  54 

Sobterranean  Excavations  at  KouynnjUc.  In  page  66 

Castle  near  a  RJTer  or  Marsh  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  56 

Valley  and  Tomb  of  Sheikh  Adi.  Facing  page  67 

Sheikh  Nasr,  High  Priest  of  the  Yezidis.  In  page  68 

Yexidi  Dance  at  Sheikh  Adi.  Facing  page  70 

Yezidi  Cawals.  In  page  79 

Moondof  Nimroud.  In  page  80 

Head-dress  of  Captives  employed  by  Assyrians  in  moving  Bull  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  87 
Excavations  at  Kouyunjik  Facing  page  89 

Workmen  carrying  Ropes,  Saws,  and  other  Implements  for  moving  Bull  (Kouyun- 
jik). In  page  91 
Stag  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  91 
Wild  Sow  and  Young,  amongst  Reeds  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  91 
King  superintending  Removal  of  Colossal  Bull  (Kouyunjik^.  Facing  page  98 
Village  with  conical  Roofs,  near  Aleppo.  In  page  94 
Awyrians  placing  a  human-headed  Bull  (partly  restored  from  a  Bas-relief  at  Kou- 
yunjik). Facing  page  96 
Plan  of  Northern  Entrance  to  Inclosure  of  Kouyunjik.  In  page  103 
Tunnel  along  Eastern  Basement  Wall  (Nimroud).  Facing  page  106 
Tunnel  along  Western  Basement  Wall  (Nimroud).  Facing  page  106 
Western  Face  of  Basement  of  Tower  (Nimroud).  *  Facing  page  106 
Northern  Face  of  Basement  of  Tower  (Nimroud).  Facing  page  106 
Elevation  of  Stylobate  of  Temple.  In  page  1 10 
Section  of  Stylobate  of  Temple.  In  page  1 10 
Cart  with  Ropes,  and  Workmen  carrying  Saws,  Picks,  and  Shovels,  for  moving  Co- 
lossal Bull  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  1 13 
Bulls,  with  Historical  Inscriptions  of  Sennacherib  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  1 14 
Remains  of  Grand  Entrance  of  the  Palace  of  Sennacherib  (Kouyunjik). 

Facing  page  117 
Existing  Remains  at  Khorsabad,  showing  original  State  of  Grand  Entrance  at  Kou- 
yunjik. Facing  page  117 
Sennacherib  on  his  Throne  before  Lachish.  In  page  127 
Jewish  Captives  from  Lachish  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  129 
Impression  of  a  Seal  on  Clay.  In  page  130 
Back  of  the  same  Seal,  showing  the  Marks  of  the  String  and  the  Fingers.  In  page  130 
Assyrian  Seals.  In  page  131 
Phienician  Seals.  In  page  131 
Egyptian  Seals.  In  page  13S 
Impressions  of  the  Signets  of  the  Kings  of  Assyria  and  Egypt.    (Original  Size.) 

In  page  133 
Fart  of  Cartouche  of  Sabaco,  enlarged  from  the  Impression  of  his  Signet.  In  page  133 
Ro^al  Cylinder  of  Sennacherib.  In  page  136 

Piece  of  Clay  with  Impressions  of  Seals.  In  page  138 


xrv 


LIST  OF  ENGRAVINGS. 


Vaulted  Drain  beneath  the  North-west  Palace  at  Nimroud.  In  page  137 

Bronze  Sotkt-t  of  the  Palace  Gate  (Nimroud).  In  page  138 

Vaulted  Drain  beneath  South-east  Palace  (Nimroud).  In  page  138 

Perfect  Arch  beneath  South-east  Edifice  (Nimroud).  In  jNige  139 

Arab  lent.  In  pa^  U8 

Excavated  Chamber  in  which  the  Bronzes  were  discovered  (Nimroud).  In  page  149 

Bronze  Bells  found  in  a  Caldron  (Nimroud).  In  page  150 

Horse  Trappings  from  a  Bos-rclief  at  Kouyunjik,  showing  probable  Use  of  Ivory 


Studs  and  Metal  liosetteti. 
Vroose  Ornaments. 
Bronse  Object. 
Oronie  Hook. 

Ivory  and  Mother  of  Pearl  Studs  (Nimroud). 
Feet  of  Trip<Kla  in  Bronze  and  Iron 
Feci  of  Tri|M)d8  in  Bronae  and  Iron. 
Biouzo  Vessels,  taken  frum  the  Interior  of  a  Caldron. 
Bronu  Veaael,  taken  from  the  Interior  of  a  Caldron. 
Bnmsa  Head  of  a  Mace. 
BioaM  Handle  of  a  Dish  or  Vase. 
Bmae  Wine  Strainer. 
BlOBM  Dish,  from  Nimroud. 
BnUB  Dish,  from  Nimroud. 
HwidlflB  of  l)r<in%e  Dishes,  from  Nimroud. 
Bronze  Cup,  B^in.  diameter,  and  Ijin.  deep. 
Enirmved  Scarab  in  Centre  of  same  Cup, 


In  page  150 
Facing  page  150 
Facing  page  160 
Facing  page  IfiO 
Facing  page  160 
Facing  page  160 
In  page  163 
Facing  page  I6t 
Facing  page  I6S 
Facing  page  I6S 
Facing  page  15S 
Facing  page  15X 
In  page  166 
In  page  166 
In  page  167 
In  page  167 
In  page  167 


EnibuaMvl  Figures  on  tlie  Bronze  Pedestal  of  a  Figure  from  PoUedrara,  in  the  British 
Museum.  In  page  160 

Eniboii»(<<l  Figure  on  the  Bronze  Pedestal  of  a  Figure  from  PoUedrara.     In  page  ICO 
Bmnxc  pj-dfstal  of  Figure  from  PoUedrara.  In  f)age  161 

BroHM  (.^up,  from  Nimroud.  In  page  161 

Biwisc  Shields,  from  Nimroud.  In  page  163 

Aa  Iron  Psck,  from  Nimroud.  In  page  166 

Itelf  of  a  double-handled  Saw,  from  Nimroud.  In  pag6  166 

Pan  of  Ivory  Sceptre,  In  page  166 

BfOBM  Oiibes  inlaid  with  Gold      (Original  Size.)  In  page  166 

OhM  tad  AktMAterVaseB  bearing  the  Name  of  Sargon,  from  Nimroud.     In  page  167 
VJnpDaato  of  Bronze  Ornainenla  of  the  Thjone  (Nmiroud).  In  page  168 

SfDHM  Bull's  Head  from  'lliroiie.  In  page  168 

Bnaia  Hi'ad,  part  ofTlirone,  showing  bitumen  inside.  In  page  168 

ItaMM  Bin<Ung  of  Joints  of  1'hrone.  In  page  169 

BnoM  Caaing,  from  the  Throne  (Nimroud).  In  page  169 

A  Oroup  of  Vezidis  In  page  171 

■sell  N'ulfitiin-  (Duvian).  In  page  178 

ai«r<  I  "-vii.IhiIn  or  Royal  Tablets  (Davian).  In  page  170 

fall'  '  iilpliir<-s  (Bavian).  In  page  183 

A*-' Min  (Uavinn)  In  page  18S 

Huacui  licy,  ilio  (;hii-f  of  the  Vexidis,  and  his  Brother.  In  page  184 

Tk«  AMiMw'a  HiiUM'  at  Nimroud.  In  page  186 

Anmt,  BMUi  of  ttui  J«h«Kh  in  page  101 

AOtiptin  fof  thfl  ToUiarl  i)  Kouyunjik.  in  page  195 

■HWlaf  nan  Kouyuqjik,  represeoting  a  fortified  City,  a  River  with  a  Boat  and 
KaB,  tatf  ■  t^aDsl.  In  page  19S 

■t^rollcf  wprcM^nliag  a  Kiver,  and  Gardens  watered  by  Canals  (Kouyunjik). 

Facing  page  196 
Our  flrti  Ktu'snipmenl  in  the  Desert.  In  page  199 

aiwlkli  NiiUliin.  In  page  303 

BomM  OoIb  of  (iordian  and  TranqutUina,  struck  at  Singara  (British  Museunt). 

In  page  313 
Inlarliir  of  a  Vnsidl  Hoiimi  at  Uukra.  in  the  Sinjar.  In  page  314 

ArsU  Ntw  King  and  Hmeekt  of  .Silver,  In  page  833 

NviMim,  Willi  hia  Wife,  im  hi*  Dromcdaiy.  In  page  339 

flHildlMiiliiiiiiiiiiKl  Fiiiiii  In  page  230 

■»<•«•••!■■■" II  iliM  KliiituMir  Facing  page  230 

M<>'  II,  iin  ihc  Khnliour.  Facing  page  233 

_l^j I  ^V'lugod  Bull  at  Arban.  In  page  S36 


^^^^^                                             LWT  Oy  BNOIUVTNGS. 

^1 

Uoa  disMTered  at  Arban — Das-reliefdiscoTered  at  Arban.                                                     ^^ 

In  page  237              ^| 

Ohione  Bottle  discovpred  at  Arban — Figure  in  Pottery,  from  Moeul.       In  pa^  238              ^| 

1     Egyptian  Sc-arab,  from  Arban — Sc«raba  discovered  at  Arban. 

In  page  33U,  940              H 

■     Sftsratja  (listovered  at  Arban. 

In  page  240               ^M 

Winged  bull  disrovt-red  at  Arban.                                                                                                 ^^ 

In  page  243               ^H 

Arab  V\  uinen  grinding  Corn  with  a  Handmill,  rolling  out  the  Dough,  and  baking  the              ^| 

Bread. 

In  page  243              H 

^H> 

Saddling  a  Deloul,  or  Drome<larT. 

In  page  a&T             ■ 

Kurdish  Women. 

InpngeMS             ■ 

-     The  Tenl  of  the  MiUi  Chief. 

In  page  878             ^1 

■     Volcaiiie  Cone  of  Koukab. 

In  page  274              ■ 

1     Lake  and  Island  of  Khatouniyah 

Facing  page  277              ^1 

1     Arab  Camels. 

In  page  286              ■ 

'     AnEntrance  to  the  Great  Hall  of  ibo  North-west  Palace  (Nimroud).        In  page  887              ^| 

Attendants  carrying  Pomegranates  and  Locusts  (Kouyunjik) 

Facing  page  289              ^M 

llie  Kiog  io  his  Chariot  passing  through  a  Stream  in  a  Valley  (Kouyupjik).                      __^^ 

Facing  page  390       ^^^M 

ABayrian  Cylinder,  with  Dagon,  or  the  Fish-God. 

la  page  292       ^^^| 

Entnnoe  PasisaBe,  Kouyunjik 

Facing  page  292       ^^H 

Fiah-God.  Kouyunjik 

Facmg  page  SOS       ^^^1 

Fteb-God  un  Oems  m  tlie  British  Museum. 

InpagefOfi       ^^H 

Archive  Cbaml)er,  Kouyunjik. 

Facing  page  296             ^B 

IjMonbed  Tablet  impre«B<-d  with  Seala. 

In  page  298              ■ 

taKnbed  Tablet,  with  Inscnption  at  one  End  in  curaive  Charaoten.        In  page  SS8              ^| 

»>  JMnnce  U>  small  Temple  (Nimrnud) 

Facing  page  301             ^M 

ftah-God  at  Entrance  to  small  Temple  (Nimroud). 

In  page  301        ^^H 

Entrance  to  Temple,  High  Muuiid  (Nimroud) 

Facing  page  302        ^^^| 

Fragment  in  blue  Clay  (Nunroud). 

In  page  308        ^^H 

■     Elye  iu  black  Marble  and  Ivory  (Nimroud), 

In  page  308             ^B 

f     Bout  is  Chalcedony  (Nimroud)— Box  in  Porcelain  1  (Niououd). 

In  page  309              ■ 

Tngsaent  in  Porcelain !  (Nimroud). 

In  page  309              H 

Eotrance  to  a  small  Templ«  (Nunroud). 

Facing  page  311               ^H 

■      autue  of  King,  from  Temple  (Nimroud) 

in  page  311               ^M 

■     Head  in  Gypsum,  from  small  TtMnple  (Nimroud). 

In  page  aiS             ■ 

1     iTOry  Head  from  small  Temple  (Nimroud). 

Inpageaia             ■ 

1     Landing  Place  with  Ferry-boats  on  the  Tigris,  at  Moatil. 

In  page  814             ■ 

P      Rock-Strulptures  near  the  VUlago  of  Gunduk. 

la  page  819            fl 

Tlie  Castle  of  Malimoudiyab. 

In  page  334       ^M 

Kurds  of  Wan 

In  page  335       ^^^H 

The  I'own  and  Rock  of  Wan. 

Facing  page  388       ^^^H 

Interior  of  a  Tomb  in  the  Rock  (Wan). 

In  page  340              ^1 

Ground  Plan  of  the  same  Tomb  (on  the  same  Scale). 

In  page  341         ^^H 

Kurd  of  the  neiglibourhoo<t  of  Wan. 

In  page  353       ^^H 

A  NestiiriFin  Family  employed  m  the  EscaTBtiona  at  Kouyui^ik. 

In  page  353       ^^^H 

Suir                  I  iig- Place  in  the  Hills. 

In  page  373        ^^H 

Ai.r                   tonans  moving  a  Slab  at  Kouyunjik. 

In  page  374             ^H 

Mel ,.  .  ur  Caakel  (Kouyunjik). 

In  page  380        ^^H 

Assyrian  Warriors  in  a  Cart,  captured  Irani  the  Elamitea  (Kouyunjik).     In  page  383        ^^^H 

Muaieiana  and  Singers  coming  nut  to  incfi  ihe  C<inquerora  (Kouyunjik).     In  page  389       ^^^| 

Assyrians  torturing  their  Captives  (Kouyunjik). 

In  page  390             ^M 

Assyrians  flaying  their  Prisoners  alive,  and  carrying  away  Heads  of  the  .Slain  (Kou-             ^| 

yuiuik). 

Facing  page  390             H 

Wall  of  ascending  Passage  in  the  Palace  of  Kouyunjik. 

Facing  page  395               ■ 

Col«'"^ii  i-iii'irps  at  an  Entrance  (Kouyunjik). 

In  page  396              ^1 

Till                   >al  Figures  on  opposite  Sculpture. 

Inpage89S             H 

Ca.s'                iiiig  Sculptures  ready  for  Embarkation. 

In  page  396             ■ 

A  KlUi  k.  or  lUft  on  the  Tigris 

In  paee  397              ■ 

Bronze  Ball  from  Tel  Mohammed — Figures  of  Assyr. Venus  in  baked  Clay.  In  page  408              ^| 

A  Hooded  Falooii  (Chark)  un  its  Stand. 

In  |Nigc  414              ^M 

The  Mujehbc  or  Kasr  {from  Kich). 

In  page  415               ^U 

Plan  of  Part  of  Ruins  of  Babylon  on  Eastern  Bank  of  the  EuphraK 

38.        In  page  418              ^M 

Eastern  Face  of  the  Birs  Nimrimd,  with  propused  Restoration. 

In  page  434                ^M 

Bottle  of  ribbed  Glass,  from  the  Mound  of  Babel. 

III  page  439              ^| 

Glass  Bottles,  from  the  Mound  of  Babel. 

la  page  «M             ■ 

Glaxed  Earthenware  Vessel,  from  the  Mound  of  Babel. 

InpageAM       ^^H 

Xvi  U*T  OF  ENORAVINOS. 

Jug  of  Sfjapstono,  from  the  Mound  of  Babel.  In  page  480 

Frai;iiiciit  from  the  MujcliM  (Babylon).  In  page  433 

Kartlifn  Jam  round  in  Babylonian  Ruins.  In  page  434 

No.  1.    An  hartliffn  inscribed  Bowl,  from  Babylon.    Diameter  6  inches,  depth  3 

iHclifH.  In  page  437 

No.  3.    An  Earthen  inscribed  Bowl,  from  Babylon.    Diameter  6  inches,  depth  H 

Hif.h.  In  page  440 

Buwl  No.  0.     Diameter  4}  inches,  drpth  2^  inches.  In  page  442 

Jlowj  No.  0.    Diameter  6  incht<9,  (3i>{itti  3  inches.  In  page  444 

InwrilN;d  Kartlicn  BowIh,  frnm  Dabyton.  In  page  448 

'I'lrrraiMrtla  'I'abh't  from  Babylon,  rrprpsenting  an  Indian  Dog.  In  page  449 

Babylonian  (y'ylindcr  in  Stenite  (Size  of  the  Original).  In  page  458 

£njtruv('<l  Gem  from  Babytun — Cylinder  in  the  BiitlHii  Museum.  In  page  458 

Hflfubi  4)rArHb  ih-louls.  In  page  462 

Ani    Man  utid  Woman.  In  page  463 

Lid  ul'gb'M-il  (.'oflin.  In  page  474 

OhWf'il  (Jiilllim  f'tdni  Babylonia.  In  page  476 

TnrHrritta  Mmir'^  uTa  Body  in  a  Coffin.  In  page  476 

Uhiii  III  biiki'd  Clay,  from  NifR.-r — Enifraved  Pebble.  In  page  478 

KrnKiiii-nth  of  (.•iigrdvcd  Shi'lb,  from  Wurka.  In  pages  478,  479 

Initrri  Jill   Jlijf  {'t  m  Clay,  from  W'lirkii.  In  page  479 

Arab  Miei-p.  In  page  487 

Ni'Hliiriiiii  and  Arab  Workmen,  with  Jar  discovered  at  Nimroud.  In  page  488 

].iNiiliiit(  ii  (.'iiiiiid  (Kijuyunjik)— C'apti%'es  resting  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  495 

(''hiiIivi'h  mi  n  Cart  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  496 

A  llitiilc  III  a  Miiruli  in  Southern  Mesopotamia  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  497 

CliHiiol,  wilh  cirruliir  Shii-ld  atladitil  (Kouyunjik).  In  page  499 

A»yrMiih  i-tittiiig  down  the  Palm  Trees  belonging  to  a  captured  City  (Kouyunjik). 

In  page  600 
Awviiiin  I'kiIi'hIiiI,  fnmi  Kouyunjik.  In  jiage  601 

i'liiii  III  TnUUM.hlnirknt  Nineveh — Coin  ofMaximinus  struck  at  Nineveh.  In  page  602 
i''ia|tini<iit  III  Mliim|N-il  I'otti-ry,  from  Kouyunjik,  probably  of  the  I'ersian  Period. 

In  page  602 
ilui-k  i»i  Koiiiiiii  Ki'lion,  from  Kouyunjik.  Facing  page  606 

t\,»limi-iil  ol  Ulih,  With  Inn^rlptiona  in  Hieroglyphs,  from  Kouyunjik.       In  page  606 
$kt»ii-  \  r.i!<i<l,  IroHi  Kdityiirijjk.  In  page  606 

H>««.'U'  ol  Miiilile  l»i«li.  frtpiti  Ktiuyimjik.  Facing  page  606 

V\«i>>s>  lii-ltiimeiil,  lii>|ii  Kouyuiulk,  Faring  jase  506 

tN.i^iii»ni!i  i>l  luillitw  I'ulii'"  in  (ila«»,  from  Kouyunjik.  Faring  page  606 

vim!  V  ki-nii||  wilh  I'lwl^  from  Kwyanjik  Fai-ing  page  506 

I  >:..  KK'n  1  \  i-vl.  fniin  Kouyunjik.  Facing  page  506 

V„...s  V   ».K»KI  *nil  HIJMtf  I'liir-ringH,  frum  Nimroud.  Facing  page  506 

Vu.i..s  «•-  vo  M  .«">  Hilver  Har-ttiiH*".  fn'tn  Kiiii\imjik  and  Nimroud.    Facing  page  506 
n,*,.,..  .-.I.,  o.'  li\oti*<'  Liiiii  W4iglitii  in  tiie  British  Museum.  Facing  pagi'  513 

.  .,  .    ,-,  .^^  Uiiit:"«>l  Metal,  Willi  Weights  in  fonn  of  a  seated  Lion.  In  luige  513 

V '  i..  •  -  ..  "  ^  V  .1  '.k-l"""  '"  •'»«*'  *1* 

K. .   .   » K..   .. '  \  Mimlci,  m  SeriH'iitme.  In  page  516 

^,.....     >:.„.,:,  m  Si'UH'iilme.        ,,.,.„       ,.        ^  In  page  616 

>    „  t.    :•  V<»ie     AnHvnan  Cylmder,  m  Porcelam  or  Quartz.  In  page  516 

•w.  ..!....     »    .,.,.,.  -i  li>«n  llieiiialile  and  Jas|K'r.  In  page  516 

"    ■" ,    ,.,.    !•  itvcM.iiiKiMT  In  page  616 

- .     ,^,     ;,  '»,|vi     fvhiidem,  with  Semclic  Characters.  In  page  617 

*•■■""      ^^"^  '^  „  ..„  v\.jm>U«n.  in  Cbalcedony,  in  Rock  Crystal,  and  in  ()ny.x. 

***■         "*"   "  In  page  618 

».:«.«.    i"i'iv»w'<'.  •'""" '''*"y""j'*'-  In  page  619 

;        ■■ '     ■  "  .1  .„    .....  \,'.-,»«iviik  In  page  620 

..  -.^.i,  i,i.<  v'«i>  Uiver  Khauser.  In  page  521 

■*"        ■      ■,...  .,  I '^Uili  rilcNcr  (Nimroud)  In  page  527 

~~""^'      '"^.       «...  v»»>.i  4««H'rtrelieMiisli,  of  theTimeof  AmenophisIII. 

♦■"*     ■"  ■       "  ■  In  jiage  538 

,;^  .    io.. ..  .i.'i  :>«  Kouyunjik.  In  piige  662 

*""'■_  In  page  653 

"*■ '"*,.. J.     .-    '•..  .u«  .!»  Konyimjik.  In  page  561 

"   •    _•   "'"  ■       ^.  .:.»..w.v   •,  Viomyik.  Facing  psiRc  662 

^"  In  page  666 


TBDflTBB*    OP    TIIH    BRlTltll    MCBIVM    BBPDMB    KXCAVATIONS    HT    MINIVCH. ORPART- 

t'RB    rtOM    COffSTAKTINOPLB. DKSrBHTlOU    Of    OUB    PABTV. CAWAI.    VUSUr. RnAlm 

rBOM     TBEBIZOND    TO     KKZEROOH  DESCRIPTION     ur     THK     COITNTRV. VARZAH.tK     AKO 

ABKBNIAN    <-Hl'RrHE8. — ERZEROOM  — RKSIIItl    PASHA. THE    DUDJOUK   TRIBES. RIIAHAN 

BBV. TirBKIAH     BEPORM. JOURKEV    TUBOITOH    ARMKNIA. AX     AKMKKIAK     maHOP.— 

TUB  Lakes  op  »iiaili;  and  naxik. — the  lakk  op  wtir. 

After  a  few  months'  resiJenne  in  Enj^land  during:  the  year  1S'1h_  tn 
recruit  a  constilutiou  worn  by  long  cx]K>sure  to  the  extretnes  pfan  Eastvru 

A 


MNEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  I. 


aUmate,  I  received  orders  to  proceed  to  my  post  at  Her  Majesty's  Embiusy 
in  Turliey.  The  Trustees  of  the  British  Museum  did  not,  at  that  time, 
contemplate  further  excavations  on  the  site  of  ancient  Nineveh,  ill  health 
and  limited  lime  had  prevented  me  from  |ilacing  before  the  public,  pre- 
vious to  my  return  to  the  East,  the  results  of  my  first  researches  with  the 
illustrations  of  the  monuments  and  copies  of  the  iiiacriptious  recovered  from 
the  ruins  of  Assyria.  They  were  not  published  until  some  time  after  my 
departure,  and  did  not  consequently  receive  that  careful  superintendence 
and  revision  necessary  to  works  of  this  nature.  It  was  at  Constantinople 
that  I  first  learnt  the  general  interest  felt  in  England  in  the  discoveries, 
and  that  they  had  been  universally  received  as  fresh  illustrations  of  Scrip- 
ture and  prophecy,  as  well  as  of  ancient  history  sacred  and  profane. 

And  iet  me  here,  at  the  very  outset,  gratefully  acknowledge  that  gener- 
ous spirit  of  English  criticism  which  overlooks  the  incapacity  and  short- 
comiiigs  of  the  laborer  when  his  object  is  worthy  of  praise,  and  that  object 
is  sought  with  sincerity  and  singleness  of  purpose.  The  gratitude,  which 
1  deeply  felt  for  eucourageuicut  rarely  equalled,  could  be  beat  shown  by 
cheerfully  consenting,  without  hesitation,  to  the  rctjuest  made  to  irie  by 
the  Trustees  of  the  British  Museum,  urged  by  public  opinion,  to  undertake 
the  superintendence  of  a  second  expedition  into  AsFyria.  Being  asked  to 
turnish  a  plan  of  operations,  I  stated  what  appeared  to  ine  to  be  the  course 
best  calculated  to  produce  interesting  and  important  results,  and  to  enable 
IIS  to  obtain  the  most  accurate  information  on  the  ancient  history,  language, 
and  arts,  not  only  of  Assyria,  but  of  its  sister  kingdom,  Babylonia.  Per- 
haps my  jilan  was  too  vast  and  gcntiral  to  admit  of  performance  or  war- 
rant adoption.  I  was  merely  directed  to  return  to  the  site  of  Nineveh, 
and  to  continue  the  researches  commenced  amongst  its  ruins. 

Arrangements  were  hastily,  and  of  course  inadequately,  made  in  En- 
gland. The  assistance  of  a  competent  artist  was  must  desirable,  to  por- 
tray with  fidelity  those  nion\imeHtB  which  injury  and  decay  had  rendered 
unfit  for  removal.  Mr.  F.  CoojKsr  was  selected  by  the  Trustees  of  the  Brit- 
ish Museum  to  accompany  the  exjwdition  iu  this  capacity.  Mr.  Honiiuzd 
Rassam,  already  well  known  to  many  of  ray  readers  for  the  share  he  had 
taken  in  my  first  discoveries,  quitted  England  with  him.  They  both  juined 
me  at  Constanlinoplc.  Dr.  Sandwith.  an  English  physician  on  a  visit  to 
tha  East,  was  induced  to  form  one  of  our  party.  One  Aljd-el-Messiuh,  a 
Catholic  Syrian  of  Mardin,  an  active  and  trustworthy  servant  during  my 
former  residence  iu  Assyria,  was  fortunately  at  this  time  in  the  capital,  and 
again  entered  my  service  :  my  other  attendants  were  Mohammed  Agba,  a 
«awasB,  and  an  Armenian  named  Serkis.  The  faithful  Bairakdar.  who 
had  so  well  served  me  during  my  previous  journey,  h.id  sccompanied  the 
English  commission  for  the  settlement  of  the  boundaries  between  Turkey 
and  Persia  ;  with  the  undei-standing,  however,  that  he  was  to  meet  mo  at 
Mosul,  in  case  I  should  return.  Cawal  Yusuf,  the  head  of  the  Preachers 
'f(  the  Yezidis,  with  four  chiefs  of  the  districts  in  the  neighborhood  of  Diar- 


Chap.  I] 


CAWAI.  YUSUF. 


9 


bnkir,  who  had  been  for  tome  montha  in   Constantinople,  completed  my 
party. 

Alter  my  departure  from  Mosul,  in  1847,  the  military  conscription,  en- 
forced amongst  the  Mu6»ulinaii  iiihatitunts  of  the  Pashalic,  was  extended 
to  the  Yezidis,  who,  with  the  Christians,  had  oven  previously  exempted 
from  its  operation  on  the  general  law  sanctioned  by  the  Koran,  and  hith* 
erto  acted  upon  by  most  Mohammedan  nations,  that  none  but  true  believ- 
ers can  serve  in  the  armies  of  the  state.  On  the  ground  that  lM>ing  of  no 
rejcognised  infidel  sect,  they  must  necessarily  he  included,  like  the  Druses 
and  Ansyri  of  Mount  Lebanon,  amongst  Mussulmans,  the  Government  had 
recently  endeavored  to  raise  recruits  for  the  regular  troops  amongst  the 
Yezidis.  The  new  regulations  had  been  carried  out  with  great  severity, 
and  had  given  rise  to  many  acts  of  cruelty  and  oppression  ou  the  part  of 
the  local  authorities.  Besides  the  feeling  common  to  all  Easterns  against 
compulsory  service  in  the  army,  the  Yeridis  had  other  reasons  liir  opp<i8ing 
the  orders  of  the  Government.  They  could  not  become  niznm,  or  disci- 
plined soldiers,  without  openly  violating  the  rites  and  ohservauces  enjoined 
by  their  faith.  The  balh,  to  which  Turkish  soldiers  are  coinpclied  weekly 
to  resort,  is  a  pollution  to  them,  when  taken  iu  common  with  Mussulmans  ; 
the  blue  color,  and  certain  (xirtions  of  the  Turkish  uniform  are  absolutely 
prohibited  by  their  Itnv  ;  and  they  cannot  eat  severul  articles  of  IlmhI  in- 
cluded in  the  rations  distributed  to  the  troops.  The  recruiting  olficers  re- 
fused to  listen  to  these  objections,  enJ'orcing  their  orders  with  c.xtreuie  and 
unnecessary  severity.  The  Yezidis,  always  ready  to  suflcr  for  tin-ir  I'ailh 
resisted,  and  many  died  under  the  tortures  iiiflieted  upon  them.  They 
were,  moreover,  still  exposed  to  the  opjiression  and  illegal  cxartions  of  the 
local  governors.  Their  children  were  still  lawful  objects  of  jmblic  sale, 
and,  notwithstamling  the  introduction  of  the  reformed  system  of  government 
into  the  provinces,  the  parents  were  subject  to  persecution,  and  even  to 
death,  on  account  of  their  religion.  In  this  state  of  things,  Husseiu  Bey 
and  yheikh  Nasr,  the  chiefs  ot  the  whole  comnuiiiity,  hearing  that  I  was 
at  Constantinople,  determined  to  send  a  deputation  to  lay  their  grievances 
liclbre  the  Sultan,  hoping  lli.-it  through  my  assistance  they  could  obtain  ac- 
cess to  some  of  the  Ministers  oC  State.  Cawal  Yuauf  atul  his  coittpanions 
were  selected  for  the  mission  ;  and  money  waa  raised  by  subscriptions  from 
the  sect  to  meet  the  expenses  of  their  journey. 

After  encountering  many  difficulties  and  dangers,  they  reached  ihf  cap- 
ital and  found  out  my  abode.  I  lost  no  lime  in  presenting  them  to  Sir 
Stratford  Canning,  who,  ever  ready  to  exert  his  powerful  inducncc  in  th'- 
cause  of  humntiityt  at  once  brought  their  wrongs  to  the  notice  of  the  IVrte 
Through  his  kindly  intercession  a  firinan,  or  imperial  order,  was  granted  to 
the  Yezidis,  which  freed  them  from  all  illegal  iriipusilions,  forbade  the  sale 
of  their  children  as  slaves,  secured  to  them  the  lull  enjoyment  of  their  re- 
ligion, and  placed  them  on  the  same  footing  as  other  sects  of  the  empire. 
It  wae  further  promised  that  arrangements  should  be  made  to  release  them 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  I. 


ficom  such  military  regutatioiis  as  rendered  their  service  in  the  arniy  in- 
compatible with  the  strict  observance  of  their  religious  duties.  So  otlen 
can  influence,  well  acquired  and  well  directed,  be  exorcised  in  the  groat 
cause  of  humanity,  without  distinction  of  persons  or  of  creeds  !  This  is  but 
one  of  the  many  instances  in  which  Sir  Stratford  Canning  has  added  to 
the  best  renown  of  tho  British  name. 

Cawal  Ydsnf,  having  fulfilled  his  mission,  eagerly  accepted  my  proposal 
to  return  with  me  to  Mosul.  His  companions  had  yet  to  obtain  certaiu 
documents  from  the  Porte,  and  were  to  remain  at  Constantinople  until 
their  business  should  be  completed.  The  Cawal  still  retained  the  dreu 
of  his  sect  and  othce.  His  dark  tiice  and  regular  and  expressive  features 
were  shaded  by  a  black  turbau,  and  a  striped  aba  of  coarse  texture  M'as 
thrown  loosely  over  a  robe  of  red  silk. 

Our  arrangements  were  complete  by  the  28th  of  August  (1849),  and  on 
that  day  wc  left  the  Bosphonas  by  an  English  steamer  Imund  for  Trebi- 
zond.  Tho  size  of  my  party  and  its  consequent  incumbrances  rendering  a 
caravan  journey  absolutely  necessary,  I  determined  to  avoid  the  usual 
tracks,  and  to  cross  eastern  Armenia  and  Kurdistan,  both  on  account  of  the 
novelty  of  part  of  tho  country  in  a  ^geographical  point  of  view,  and  its  po- 
litical interest  as  having  only  recently  been  brought  under  the  immediate 
control  of  the  Turkish  government. 

Wo  disembarked  at  Trebizond  on  the  Slst,  and  on  the  following  day 
commenced  our  land  journey.  The  country  between  this  |>ort  and  Erae- 
room  has  been  frequently  traversed  and  described.  Throug-h  it  pass  the 
caravan  routes  connecting  Persia  with  the  Black  Sea,  the  grout  lities  ol 
intercourse  and  commerce  between  Europe  and  central  Asia.  The  roads 
usually  frequented  are  three  in  number.  The  summer,  or  upper,  road  is 
the  shortest,  but  is  most  precipitous,  and,  crossing  very  lofty  mountains,  is 
closed  after  the  snows  commence  ;  it  is  called  Tchaiflrr,  from  its  fine  up- 
land pastures,  on  which  the  horses  are  usually  fed  when  caravans  take  this 
route.  The  middle  road  has  few  advantages  over  the  upper,  and  is  rarely 
followed  by  merchants,  who  prefer  the  lower,  although  making  a  consider- 
able detour  by  fiumish  Khaneh,  or  tho  Silver  Mines.  The  three  untie  at 
the  town  of  Baiburt,  midway  between  the  sea  and  Erzeroom.  Although 
an  active  and  daily  increasing  trade  is  carried  on  by  these  roads,  no  means 
whatever  have  until  recently  been  taken  to  improve  them.  They  consist 
of  mere  mountain  tracks,  deep  in  mud  or  dust  according  to  the  season  ol 
the  year.  The  bridges,  built  when  the  erection  ami  repair  of  public  works 
were  imposed  upon  the  local  governors,  ami  deemed  a  sacred  duty  by  the 
Bemi-inde|>endeut  hereditary  families,  who  ruled  in  the  provinces  as  Pashas 
or  Dereh-Beys,  have  been  long  permitted  to  fall  into  decay,  and  commerce 
is  frequently  slopped  for  days  by  tho  swollen  torrent  or  fordless  stream. 
This  has  been  one  of  the  many  evil  results  of  the  system  of  centralisation 
so  vigorously  commenced  by  Sultan  Mahrnoud,  and  so  steadily  carried  out 
during  the  present  reign.     The  local  governors,  receiving  a  fixed  salary. 


Chap.  I. 


TURKISH  ROADS. 


« 


and  rarely  permitted  to  reinaia  above  a  few  monthi  in  oae  office,  take  no 
iiit«rest  whatever  in  the  pros]>crity  of  the  districts  placed  under  their  care. 
The  funds  aligned  by  the  Porto  for  public  works,  small  and  totally  inade- 
quate, are  squandered  away  or  purloined  long  before  any  part  can  bo  ap- 
plied to  the  objects  in  view. 

riince  my  visit  to  Trcbizond.  a  road  for  carts  has  been  commenced,  which 
IS  to  lead  from  that  port  to  the  Persian  frontiers ;  but  it  will,  probably, 
like  other  undertakings  of  the  kind,  bo  abandoned  long  before  completed, 
or,  if  over  completed,  will  be  permitted  at  once  to  fall  to  ruin  from  the  want 
of  common  repair.  And  yet  the  Persian  trade  is  one  of  the  chief  sources  of 
revenue  of  the  Turkish  empire,  and  unless  conveniences  arc  aflbrded  for  its 
prosecution,  will  speedily  pass  into  other  hands.  The  southern  shores  of 
the  Black  Sea,  tweive  years  ago  rarely  visited  by  a  foreign  vessel,  are  now 
coasted  by  steamers  belonging  to  three  companies,  which  touch  nearly 
weekly  at  the  principal  ports ;  and  there  is  commerce  and  traffic  enough 
for  rnore.  The  establishment  of  steam  cdinnmmcatioa  between  thn  [wrts 
and  the  capital  has  given  an  activity  previously  unknown  to  internal 
trade,  and  has  brought  the  inhabitants  of  distant  provinces  of  the  empire 
into  a  contact  with  the  capital  highly  favorable  to  the  extension  of  civil- 
ization and  to  the  enforcement  of  the  legitimate  authority  of  the  govern- 
ment. The  want  of  proper  harbors  is  a  considerable  drawback  in  the 
navigation  of  a  sea  so  unstabi'.'  and  dangerous  as  the  Euxine.  Trebizond 
has  a  mere  roadstead,  and  from  In  position  is  otherwise  little  calculated 
for  a  great  commercial  port,  which,  like  many  other  placej,  it  has  become, 
rather  from  its  hereditary  claims  as  the  representative  of  a  city  once  fa- 
mous, than  from  any  local  advantages. 

The  only  harbor  on  the  southern  coast  is  that  of  Batoun,  nor  is  there 
any  retreat  for  vessels  on  the  Circassian  shores.  This  place  is  therefore 
probably  destined  to  become  the  emporium  of  trade,  both  from  its  safe  and 
spacious  port,  and  from  the  facility  it  afTords  of  internal  communication 
with  Persia,  Georgia,  and  Armenia.  From  it  the  Turkish  government 
might  have  been  induced  to  construct  the  road  since  commenced  at  Trebi- 
zond, had  not  a  political  inllueuee,  always  hostile  to  any  real  improve- 
ment in  the  Ottoman  empire,  opposed  it  with  that  pertinacity  which  ia 
generally  snre  to  command  success. 

At  the  back  of  Trebizond,  as  indeed  along  the  whole  of  this  singularly 
bold  and  beautiful  coast,  the  mountains  rise  in  lofty  peaks,  and  are  wood- 
ed with  trees  of  enonnoua  growth  and  admirable  quality,  furnishing  an 
unlimited  supply  of  limber  for  commerce  or  war.  Innumerable  streams 
force  their  way  to  the  sea  through  deep  and  rocky  ravines.  The  more 
sheltered  spots  are  occupied  by  villages  and  hamlets,  chiefly  inhabited  by 
a  hardy  and  industrious  race  of  Greeks.  In  spring,  the  choicest  flowers 
perfume  the  air,  and  luxuriant  creepers  clothe  the  limbs  of  gigantic  trees. 
In  summer,  the  richest  pastures  enamel  the  uplands,  and  the  inhabitants 
of  the  coasts  drive  their  flocks  and  herds  to  the  higher  regions  of  the  hills. 


6 


NINE\'EH  AND  BAOVLON. 


[Chap.  I 


The  forestB,  nourished  by  the  exhalations  and  rains  engendered  hy  a  large 
(.■xparise  of  water,  form  a  bell,  from  thirty  to  fifty  miles  in  breadlli,  aiuug 
the  Black  f?ea.  Beyond,  the  dense  woods  cease,  as  do  also  the  rugged 
ravine  and  rocky  peak.  They  are  succeeded  hy  still  higher  mountainB, 
mostly  ronnded  in  their  forinB,  some  topped  with  eternal  eiiow,,  Imrrcn  of 
wood  and  even  nf  vegetation,  exrept  during  the  summer,  when  they  are 
covered  with  Alpine  flowers  and  herbs.  The  villages  in  the  valleys  are 
inhabited  by  Turks,  Lazes  (Mussuhnans),  and  Armenians;  the  soil  is  fer- 
tile, and  protluces  much  corn. 

Our  journey  to  Er/eroom  was  performed  without  incident.  A  heavy 
and  uninterrujited  rain  for  two  days  tried  the  patienee  and  temper  of 
those  who  for  the  first  time  encountered  the  difficulties  and  incidents  of 
Eastern  travel.  The  only  place  of  any  interest,  passed  during  our  ride, 
was  a  small  Armenian  village,  the  remains  of  a.  larger,  with  the  ruins  of 
three  early  Christian  churches,  or  baptisteries.     These  remarkable  build- 


-mf 


':      i 


JS^-^' 


Anslent  Armenkan  Cliurrli  il  TiiraatuuL 


i:igs,  of  which  many  examples  exist,  belong  to  an  order  of  architecture 
]M>unliar  to  the  most  eastern  dislrictc  of  Asia  Minor  and  to  the  ruins  tf 


Chap.  I.j 


ARmKIAN  CHURCHU. 


ancient  Anneuiari  oitiea,*  on  the  borden  of  Turkey  and  Pereia.  The  one, 
of  which  I  have  given  a  sketch,  is  an  octagon,  and  may  have  been  a  bap 
lislerj-.  The  interior  walls  are  still  covered  with  the  remains  ol"  elaboratt 
freaooes  represeiiling  scripture  events  and  national  saints.  The  colors  an- 
vivid,  and  the  forms,  though  rude,  not  inelegant  or  incorrect,  resembling 
those  of  the  frescoes  of  the  Lower  Empire  still  seen  in  the  celebrated  By- 
zantine church  at  Trebizond,  and  in  the  chapels  of  the  convents  of  Mount 
Athos.  The  knotted  capitals  of  the  thin  tapering  colimins  grouped  togeth- 
er, the  peculiar  arrangement  of  the  stones  over  the  doorway,  supportitip 
each  other  by  a  zigzag,  and  the  decoraliona  in  general,  call  to  mind  lln- 
European  Gothic  of  the  middle  og<?g.  These  churches  date  probably  be- 
fore the  twelfth  ceutnry  ;  but  there  are  no  inscriptions,  or  other  clue,  to 
fix  their  precise  epoch,  and  the  various  styles  and  modifications  of  the 
architecture  have  not  been  hitherto  sufficiently  studied  to  enable  us  to  d«- 
tennine  with  accuracy  the  time  to  which  any  peculiar  ornaments  or  forms 
may  belong.  Yet  there  are  many  interesting  questions  connected  with 
this  Armenian  architecture  which  well  deserve  elucidation.  From  it  was 
probably  derived  much  that  passed  into  the  Gothic,  whilst  the  Tatar  con- 
querors of  Asia  Minor  adopted  it,  as  will  be  hereafter  seen,  for  their  mau- 
aoleuma  and  places  of  worship.  It  is  peculiarly  elegant  both  in  its  deco- 
rations, its  proportions,  ajtd  the  general  arrangement,  of  the  masses,  and 
might  with  advantage  be  studied  by  the  modern  architect.  Indeed,  As^iii 
Minor  contains  a  iniue  of  similar  materials  unex^Uored  and  almost  un- 
known. 

The  churches  of  Varzahan,  according  to  the  information  I  received  from 
an  nged  inhabitant  of  the  village,  had  bcoii  destroyed  some  fifty  years  be- 
fore by  the  Laze«.  The  oldest  peo|de  of  the  place  remembered  the  time 
when  divine  worship  was  still  perfunncd  within  their  walls. 

We  reached  Erzeroom  on  the  8th,  and  were  most  hospitably  received 
by  the  British  consul,  Mr.  Brant,  a  freiillctnau  who  has  long,  well,  and 
honorably  sustained  our  innui.'ucc  in  this  (larl  uf  Turkey,  and  who  was  the 
first  to  open  an  iin])orlant  field  for  our  comttierce  in  Asia  Minor.  With 
him  I  visited  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  Turkish  forces  in  Anatolia, 
who  bad  recently  returned  from  a  successful  expedition  against  the  wiid 
mountain  triljes  of  central  Armenia.  Uesbid  Pa-sha,  known  as  the  "  Guz- 
lu,"  or  "  the  Wearer  ol  S|x;ctaele8,''  enjoyed  the  advantages  of  an  Euro- 
pean education,  and  had  already  distinguished  hiniselfin  the  military  ca- 
reer. With  a  knowleilgo  of  the  French  language  ho  united  a  taste  for  Eu- 
ropean literature,  which,  during  his  numerous  expe<lition«  into  districts  un 
known  to  western  travellers,  had  led  him  to  examine  their  goograpltieal 
features,  and  to  make  inquiries  into  the  manners  and  religion  of  their  iu- 
liabitants.     His  last  exploit  had  been  the  subjugation  of  lh«  tribes  inhab 

»  Particularly  of  Ani  Mons  Texier  is,  I  boliove,  tlic  only  traveller  who  lias  .ii- 
tempted  to  give  elaborate  plans,  elevations,  drawings,  and  rcstoralions  of  these  in 
tcreating  edifices. 


I 


8 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


I  Chap.  I. 


iting  the  Dudjook  Mt^untainB,  to  the  louth-west  o{  Erzeroom,  long  in  open 
rebcllioii  against  the  Sultan.  The  account  he  gave  mo  of  the  country 
und  its  ovcupaats,  much  excited  a  curiosity  which  the  limited  time  at  my 
coaunand  did  not  enable  me  to  gratify.  According  to  the  Pasha,  the 
tribes  are  idolalroiiB,  worshipping  venerable  oaka,  great  trees,  huge  soli- 
tary rocks,  and  other  grand  features  of  nature.  He  was  inclined  to  at- 
tribute to  them  mysteriouH  and  abominable  rites.  This  calumny,  the 
resource  of  ignorance  and  intolerance,  from  which  even  primitive  Chris- 
liatjity  did  not  escape,  has  generally  been  spread  in  the  East  against  those 
whose  tenets  are  unknown  or  carefully  concealed,  and  who,  in  Turkey,  are 
included  under  the  general  term,  indicating  their  suppmsed  obscene  cere- 
monies, of  Cheragh-sonderan,  or  "  Extinguishers  of  Lights."  They  have 
a  chief  prieat,  who  is,  at  the  same  time,  a  kind  of  ptditical  head  of  the 
sect.  He  had  recently  been  taken  prisoner,  sent  1o  Constantinople,  and 
from  thence  exiled  to  some  town  on  the  Danube.  They  speak  a  Kurdish 
dialect,  though  the  various  septa  into  which  they  are  divided  have  Arabic 
nBmes,  apparently  showtng  a  southern  origin.  Of  their  history  and  early 
migrations,  however,  the  Pasha  could  learn  nothing,  The  direct  road  be- 
tween Trebizond  and  Mesopotamia  once  passed  through  their  districts,  and 
the  ruins  of  spacious  and  well-built  khans  are  still  seen  at  rcgidar  inter- 
vals on  the  remains  of  the  old  causeway.  But  from  a  remote  period,  the 
country  had  been  closed  against  the  strongest  caravans,  and  no  traveller 
would  venture  into  the  power  of  tribes  notorious  for  their  cruelty  and  law- 
lessness. The  Pasha  spoke  of  re-opening  the  road,  rebuilding  caravanse- 
rais, and  restoring  trade  to  its  ancient  channel — goo<l  inlcntioiis,  not 
wanting  amongst  Turks  of  his  class,  and  which,  if  carried  out,  might  re- 
store a  country  rich  in  natural  resources  to  more  than  its  ancient  prosper- 
ity. The  account  ho  gave  me  is  not  perhaps  to  be  strictly  relied  on,  but 
a  district  hitherto  inaccessible  may  poissibly  contain  the  remains  of  ancient 
races,  monuments  of  antiquity,  and  natural  productions  of  sufficient  im- 
portance to  merit  the  attention  of  the  traveller  in  Asia  Minor, 

The  city  of  Erzeroom  is  rapidly  declining  in  importance,  and  is  almost 
solely  supported  by  the  Persian  transit  trade.  It  would  be  nearly  deserted 
if  that  traflic  were  to  be  thrown  into  a  new  channel  by  the  construction 
of  the  direct  road  from  Batoun  to  the  Persian  frontiers.  It  contains  no 
buildings  of  any  interest,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  ruins  of  those  mon- 
uments of  early  Mussulman  domination,  the  elaborately  ornamented  ■pot- 
lico  and  minaiet  faced  with  glazed  tiles  of  rich  yet  harmonious  coloring, 
and  the  conical  mausoleum,  peculiar  to  most  cities  of  early  date  in  Asia 
Minor.  The  mo»lcrn  Turkish  edifices,  dignified  with  the  names  of  palaces 
and  barracks,  arc  meeting  the  fate  of  neglected  mud.  Their  crumbling 
walls  can  scarcely  shelter  their  inmates  in  a  climate  almost  unequalled  in 
the  habitable  globe  for  the  rigor  nf  its  winters. 

The  district*  of  Armenia  and  Kurdistan,  through  which  lay  our  road 
from  Erzeroom  to  Mosul,  are   sufficiently  unknown  and  interesting  to 


Chaf.  I] 


THE  DUDJOOK  TRIBES. 


merit  more  than  a  caeual  mention.  The  map  will  show  that  our  route 
by  the  lake  of  Wan,  Bitlis,  and  Jezirah  wag  nearly  a  direct  one.  It  had 
been  but  recently  opened  to  caravans.  The  haunts  of  the  last  of  the 
Kurdish  rebels  were  on  the  shore*  of  this  lake.  After  the  fall  of  the  most 
powerful  of  their  chiefs,  Beder  Khan  Bey,  they  had  one  by  one  been  sub- 
dued and  carried  away  into  captivity.  Only  a  few  months  had,  however, 
elapsed  sinee  the  Beys  of  Bitlis,  who  had  longest  resisted  the  Turkish 
arms,  had  been  captured.  With  them  rebellion  was  extinguished  for  the 
time  in  Kurdistan. 

Our  caravan  consisted  of  my  own  party,  with  the  addition  of  a  mule- 
teer and  his  two  aseistants,  natives  of  Bitlis,  who  furnished  me  with  seven- 
teen  horses  and  mules  from  Erzeroom  to  Mosul.  The  first  day's  ride,  as 
is  customary  in  the  East,  where  friends  accompany  the  traveller  far  be- 
yond the  city  gates,  and  where  the  preparations  for  a  journey  are  bo  nu- 
merous that  everj'thing  cannot  well  be  remembered,  scarcely  exceeded  nine 
miles.  We  rested  for  the  right  in  iho  village  of  Guli,  whose  owner,  one 
Shah  an  Bey,  had  been  apprised  of  my  intended  visit.  He  had  rendered 
his  newly-built  houge  as  curufortabic  as  his  means  would  permit  for  our 
accommodation,  and,  after  providing  us  with  an  excellent  supper,  passed 
the  evening  with  me.  Descended  from  an  ancient  family  of  Dereh-Beys 
he  had  inherited  the  hospitality  and  polished  manners  of  a  class  now  al- 
most extinct,  and  of  which  a  short  account  may  not  be  uninteresting. 

The  Turkish  conquerors,  atter  the  overthrow  of  the  Greek  empire,  par- 
celled out  their  newly  acquired  dominions  into  military  fiefs.  These  ten- 
ures varied  subsequently  in  size  from  the  vast  possessions  of  the  great  fam- 
ilies, with  their  hosts  of  retainers,  such  as  the  Kara  Osmans  of  Magnesia, 
the  Pasvan  Oglus,  and  others,  to  the  small  .yxihiiik.i  of  Turkey  in  Europe, 
whose  owners  were  obliged  to  perform  personal  military  service  when 
called  upon  by  the  state.  Between  them,  of  middle  rank,  were  the  Doreh- 
Beys.  literally  the  "  Lords  of  the  Valley,"  who  resided  in  their  fortified  cas- 
tles, or  villages,  and  scarcely  owned  more  than  a  tiaininal  allegiance  tn 
the  Sultan,  although  generally  ready  to  accompany  him  in  a  great  national 
war  agamsl  the  infidels,  or  in  expeditions  against  too  powerful  and  usurp- 
ing subjects.  tSultau  Mahmoud,  a  man  of  undoubted  genius  and  of  vast 
views  for  the  consolidation  and  centralisation  of  his  empire,  aimed  not  only 
at  the  extirpation  of  all  those  great  families,  which,  either  by  hereditary 
right  or  by  local  inilufuco,  had  assumed  a  kind  of  inde[>endcnce  ;  but  of  all 
the  smaller  Dereh-Beys  and  tSpahis.  This  gigantic  scheme,  which  changed 
the  whole  system  of  tenure  and  local  administration,  whether  political  or 
ilnancial,  he  nearly  carried  nut,  partly  by  force  of  arms,  and  partly  by  treach- 
ery. Sultan  Abd-ui-Mojid,  freed  from  the  difficulties  and  embarrassments 
with  which  an  unfortunate  war  with  Russia  and  successful  rebellions  in  Al- 
bania and  Egypt  had  surrounded  his  father,  has  completed  what  Mahmoud 
commenced.  Not  only  have  the  few  remaining  Dereh-Beys  been  destroyed 
or  removed  one  by  one.  but  oven   inilitary  tenure  has  been  entirely  abol- 


10 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  I. 


ished  by  arbitrary  enactmentfl,  which  have  girea  no  compensation  to  the 
owners,  and  have  destroyed  the  only  hereditary  nobility  in  the  empire. 
Opinions  may  dilFer  as  to  the  wisdonn  of  the  course  pursued,  and  as  to  ita 
probable  results.  Whilst  greater  personal  security  has  been  undoubtedly 
established  throughout  the  Ottoman  dominions,  whilst  the  subjects  of  the 
8ultan  arc,  theoretically  at  least,  no  longer  exposed  to  the  tyranny  of  local 
chiefs,  but  are  governed  by  the  more  equitable  and  tolerant  laws  of  the 
empire  ;  his  throne  has  lost  the  support  of  a  race  bred  to  military  life,  un- 
disciplined, it  is  true,  but  brave  and  devoted,  always  ready  to  join  the  holy 
standard  when  unfurled  against  the  enemies  of  the  nation  and  its  religion, 
a  race  who  carried  the  Turkish  arms  into  the  heart  of  Europe,  and  were 
the  terror  of  Christendom.  Whether  a  regular  army,  disciplined  as  far  as 
possible  after  the  fashion  of  Europe,  will  supply  the  place  of  the  old  Turk- 
ish irregular  cavalry  and  infantry,  remains  to  be  seen,  and,  for  reasons 
which  it  is  scarcely  necessarj'  to  enter  into,  may  fairly  be  doubted.  With 
the  old  system  the  spirit  which  supported  it  is  fast  dying  away,  and  it  may 
be  questioned  whether,  in  Mussulman  Turkey,  discipline  can  ever  compen- 
sate for  its  loss.  The  country  has  certainty  not  yet  recovered  from  the 
change.  During  the  former  stale  of  things,  with  all  the  acts  of  tyranny 
and  oppression  which  absolute  power  engendered,  there  was  more  happiness 
amongst  the  people,  and  more  prosperity  in  the  land.  The  hereditary  chiefs 
looked  upon  their  Christian  subjects  as  so  much  property  to  be  improved 
and  protected,  like  the  soil  itself.  They  were  a  source  of  revenue;  conse- 
quently heavy  taxes  which  impeded  labor,  and  drove  the  laborer  from  the 
land,  were  from  interest  rarely  imposed  upon  them.  The  Cioveniment  left 
the  cnlorcement  of  order  to  the  local  chiefs;  atl  the  tribute  received  from 
them  was  so  much  clear  gain  to  the  treasury,  because  no  collectors  were 
needed  to  raise  it,  nor  troops  to  enforce  its  payment.  The  revenues  of  the 
empire  were  equal  to  great  wars,  and  there  was  neither  public  clebt  nor 
embarrassment.  Now  that  the  system  of  ccutralisatiou  has  been  fully  car- 
ried out,  the  revenues  are  more  than  absorbed  in  the  measures  necessary  to 
collect  them,  and  the  officers  of  government,  having  no  interest  whatever 
in  the  districts  over  which  they  are  placed,  neglect  all  that  may  tend  to 
the  prosperity  and  well-being  of  their  inhabjlauts.  It  may  be  objected  in 
extenuation  that  it  is  scarnely  lair  to  judge  of  the  working  of  a  system  so 
suddenly  introduced,  and  that  Turkey  is  merely  in  a  transition  stale  ;  the 
principle  it  has  adopted,  whatever  its  abuse,  being  fundamentally  correct. 
One  thing  is  certain,  that  Turkey  must,  sooner  or  later,  have  gone  through 
this  change. 

It  is  customary  to  reganl  these  old  Turkish  lords  as  inexorable  tyrants — 
Tobber  chiefs  who  lived  ou  the  plunder  of  travellers  and  of  their  subjects. 
That  there  were  many  who  answered  to  this  description  cannot  be  denied  ; 
but  they  were,  I  believe,  exceptions.  Amongst  them  wire  some  rich  in  vir- 
tues and  high  and  noble  feeling.  It  has  been  frequently  my  lot  to  find  a 
representative  of  this  nearly  extinct  class  in  some  remote  and  almost  un- 


Chap.  I] 


SHAHAN  BET. 


tl 


known  spot  in  Asia  Minor  or  Albania.  I  have  been  received  \^)th  afleo- 
tionate  warmth  at  the  end  of  a  day's  journey  by  a  venerable  Key  or  Agha 
iu  his  spacioua  mansion,  now  fast  crumbling  to  ruin,  but  still  brij^ht  with 
the  remains  of  rich,  yet  tasteful,  oriental  decoiation  ;  his  long  benrd,  white 
as  snow,  falling  low  on  his  breast  ;  his  many-folded  turban  shadnwing  his 
benevolent  yet  manly  countenance,  and  his  limbs  enveloped  in  the  noble 
garments  rejected  by  the  new  generation  ;  his  hall  open  to  all  comers,  the 
guest  neither  asked  from  whence  ho  came  or  whither  he  was  going,  dipping 
his  hands  with  him  in  the  same  dish ;  his  servants,  standing  with  rever- 
ence before  him,  rather  his  children  than  his  servants ;  bis  revenues  spent 
in  raising  fountains*  on  the  wayside  for  the  weary  traveller,  or  in  building 
caravanserais  on  the  dreary  plain ;  not  only  professing  but  practising  all 
the  duties  and  virtues  enjoiueti  by  the  Koran,  which  are  Christian  duties 
and  virtues  too  ;  in  his  manners,  his  appearance,  his  hospitality,  and  his 
faithfulness  a  perfect  model  for  a  Christian  gendetnan.  The  race  is  fast 
passing  away,  and  I  feel  grateftil  in  being  able  to  testify,  with  a  few  oth- 
ers, to  its  existence  once,  against  prejudice,  intolerance,  and  so  called  re- 
form. 

But  to  return  to  our  host  at  Guli.  Shahan  Bey,  although  not  an  old 
man,  was  a  very  favorable  specimen  of  the  claee  1  have  described.  He 
was  truly,  in  the  noble  and  expressive  phraseology  of  the  East,  an  "Ojiak 
Zadeh,"  "  a  child  of  the  hearth,"  a  gentleman  Iwrn.  His  family  had  orig- 
inally migrated  from  Daghistan,  and  his  father,  a  pasha,  had  distinguished 
himself  in  the  wars  with  Ruif»ia.  He  entertained  mo  with  animated  ac- 
counts of  feuds  between  his  atici!stors  anil  the  neighbouring  chiefs,  when 
without  their  armed  retainers  neither  cnuld  venture  beyond  their  immedi- 
ate territories,  contrasting,  with  g«)il  sense  and  a  fair  knowledge  of  his  sub- 
ject, the  former  with  the  actual  state  of  the  country.  On  the  fullowing 
morning,  when  I  bade  him  adieu,  he  would  not  allow  me  to  reward  either 
himself  or  his  servants,  for  hospitality  extended  to  so  large  a  company. 
He  rode  with  me  for  some  distance  on  my  route,  with  his  greyhounds  and 
followers,  and  then  returned  to  his  village. 

From  Guli  we  crossed  a  high  range  of  moiuitaius,  running  nearly  east 
and  west,  by  a  pass  called  Ali-Baba,  or  Ala-Baba,  enjoying  from  the  summit 
an  extensive  view  of  the  plain  of  Pasvin,  once  one  of  the  most  thickly-peo- 
pled and  best  cultivated  districts  in  Armenia.  The  Christian  inhabitants 
were  partly  induced  by  promises  of  land  and  protection,  and  partly  com- 
pelled by  force,  to  accompany  the  Russian  army  into  Georgia  after  the  end 
of  the  last  war  with  Turkey.  By  similar  means  that  part  of  the  Pashalic 
of  ErAeroom  adjoining  the  Russian  territories  was  aluiost  stripped  of  its 
most  industrious  Armenian  population.     To  the  south  of  us  rose  the  snow- 

•  Tlie  most  unobservant  and  ha.sty  traveller  in  Turkey  would  soon  become  ac- 
quainted will)  lUis  fact,  could  ho  rt'ad  the  modest  and  piiiiis  insi-nption,  carved  in  re- 
lief un  a  small  marble  tablet  oi'Uie  purest  white,  adorning  alniosi  every  half-rained 
fouulain  at  which  he  slops  to  refresh  himself  by  the  way.'sido. 


^ 


NINEVEH  AND  flABYlON. 


[CHiP.  I. 


capped  mountains  of  the  Bin  Ghiul,  or  the  "Thousand  Lakes,"  in  which 
the  Aroxes  and  several  confluents  of  the  Euphrates  have  their  source.  We 
descended  from  the  pass  into  undulating  and  barren  dowiis.  The  villapes. 
thinly  scattered  over  the  low  hilla,  were  deserted  by  their  inhabitants,  who, 
at  this  season  of  the  year,  pitch  their  tents  and  seek  pasture  Ibr  their  flocks 
in  the  uplands.  We  encamped  for  the  inght  near  one  of  these  villages, 
called  Gundi-Miran,  or,  in  Turkish,  Rey-Kiui,  which  has  the  same  meaning, 
"the  village  of  the  chief."  A  man  who  remained  to  watch  the  crops  of 
corn  and  barley  went  to  the  tents,  and  brought  us  such  provLsiona  as  we 
required.  The  iubabitauts  of  this  district  are  Kurds,  and  are  still  divided 
into  tribes.  The  owners  of  Gundi-Miran,  and  the  surrounding  villages, 
are  the  Zirakhi  (the  armour-wearers),  who  came  originally  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Diarbekir.  Within  a  few  months  of  our  visit  they  were  in 
open  rebellion  against  the  government,  and  the  country  had  been  closed 
against  travellers  and  caravans. 

Next  day  we  continued  our  journey  amongst  undulating  hills,  abound- 
ing in  flocks  of  the  great  and  lesser  bustard.  Innumerable  sheep-walks 
branched  from  the  beaten  path,  a  sign  that  villages  were  near  ;  hut,  like 
those  we  had  passed  the  day  belbre,  they  had  been  deserted  for  the  tjihiks, 
ot  summer  pastures-  These  villages  are  still  such  as  they  were  when 
Xenophon  traversed  Arnncnia.  "  Their  houses,"  says  he,  "  were  under 
ground ;  the  mouth  resembling  that  of  a  well,  but  spacious  below  :  there 
was  an  entrance  dug  for  the  cattle,  but  the  inhabitants  descended  by  lad- 
ders. In  these  houses  wore  goats,  sheep,  cows,  and  fowls  with  their  young."* 
The  low  hovels,  mere  holes  in  the  hill-side,  and  the  common  refuge  of 
man,  poultry,  and  cattle,  cannot  be  seen  from  any  distance,  and  they  are 
purposely  built  away  from  the  road  to  escape  the  unwelcome  visits  of  trav- 
elling government  officers  and  marching  troops.  It  is  not  uncommon  for  a 
traveller  to  receive  the  first  intimation  of  his  approach  to  a  village  by  find- 
ing his  horse's  fore  feet  down  a  chimney,  and  himself  taking  his  place  un- 
expectedly in  the  family  circle  through  the  roof  Nutnerous  small  streams 
wind  among  the  valleys,  marking  by  meandering  lines  of  perpetual  green 
their  course  to  the  Arraa,  or  Araxes.  We  crossed  that  river  about  midday 
by  a  ford  not  more  than  three  feet  deep,  but  the  bed  of  the  stream  is  wide, 
and  after  rains,  and  during  the  spring,  is  completely  filled  by  an  impassa- 
ble torrent.  On  its  southern  bank  we  found  a  caravan  reposijig,  the  burses 
and  mules  feeding  in  the  long  grass,  the  travellers  sleeping  in  the  shade  of 
their  piled  up  bales  of  goods.  Amongst  the  merchants  we  recognised  sev- 
eral natives  of  Mosul  who  trade  with  Erzeroom,  changing  dates  and  coarse 
Mosul  fabrics  for  a  fine  linen  made  at  Riza. — a  small  place  on  the  Black 
Sea,  near  Trcbizond, — and  much  worn  by  the  wealthy  and  by  women. 

During  the  afternoon  wo  crossed  the  western  spur  of  the  Tiektab  Mount- 
ains, a  high  and  bold  range  with  three  well  delined  peaks,  which  had  been 
visible  from  the  summit  of  the  Ala  Baba  pass.  From  the  crest  we  had  the 
•  Anabasis,  lib.  iv.  c.  6. 


Chap.  I.] 


THE  SDBHAN  DAOB. 


» 


finl  view  of  Subhan,  or  Sipan,  Dagh.*  a  raagniticeut  conical  peak,  covered 
with  eternal  snow,  and  rising  abruptly  from  the  plaiu  to  the  Dorth  of  Lake 
Wan.  It  ii  a  coiupicuous  and  beautiful  object  from  every  part  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.  We  descended  into  the  wide  and  fertile  plain  of  Hinnis. 
The  town  was  just  visible  in  the  distance,  but  wo  left  it  to  the  right,  and 
halted  for  the  night  in  the  large  Armenian  village  of  Kosli,  after  a  ride  of 
more  than  nine  hours.  I  was  received  at  the  guest-housot  with  great  hos- 
pitality by  one  Misrab  Agha,  a  Turk,  to  whom  the  village  formerly  belong- 
ed as  Spahilik  or  military  tenure,  and  who,  deprived  of  his  hereditary  rights, 
had  now  farmed  its  revenues.  He  hurried  with  a  long  stick  among  the 
low  houses,  and  heaps  of  dried  dung,  piled  up  in  every  open  space  for  win- 
ter fuel,  collecting  fowls,  curds,  bread,  and  barley,  abusing  at  the  same  time 
the  tanzimat,  which  compelled  such  exalted  travellers  as  ourselves,  he  said, 
"to  pay  for  the  provisions  we  condescended  to  accept."  The  inhabitants 
were  not,  however,  backward  in  furnishing  us  with  all  we  wanted,  and  the 
flourish  of  Misrab  Agha's  stick  was  only  the  remains  of  an  old  habit.  I 
invited  him  to  supper  with  me,  an  invitation  he  gladly  accepted,  having 
himself  contributed  a  tender  lamb  roasted  whole  toward  our  entertainment. 
The  inhxbitants  of  Kosli  could  scarcely  be  dietinguiahed  eitlier  by  their 
dress  or  by  their  general  appearance  from  the  Kurds.  They  seemed  pros- 
perous and  were  on  the  best  terms  with  the  Miissulman  ianner  of  their 
tithes.  This  village,  with  others  in  the  district,  had  been  nearly  deserted 
after  the  Russian  war,  the  inhabitants  migrating  into  Georgia.     Several 


*  Si{>an  is  a  Kurdish  corruptica  of  Subhan,  i.  s.  Pruise.  The  mountain  is  so  called, 
because  a  tratlition  asserts  that  whilst  Noah  was  carrii'd  lu  ami  fro  h^  the  waters  of 
the  deluge,  the  ark  struck  against  il.%  peak,  and  the  pulriarch,  alarmed  by  the  shock, 
exelaimpd  "  Subhami-llali,"  "  Praise  be  ti»  (i<Ml !"  It  has  alsii  l>*cn  conjectured  Ihat 
the  name  is  derived  frnni  "Surp,"  an  Anneniaii  word  me;niiri|;  "htily  "  It  ha«  only 
been  ascended  once,  aa  far  as  I  am  aware,  by  FairopfaiiB.  Mr.  Brant,  tlit;  ilritish 
exvnsul  of  Eraeroorn,  accompanied  by  liieiit.  tilascott  and  Dr  Dickson,  reached  tlie 
summit  ou  the  1st  of  September,  18;W,  after  cKpcriciieing  considerable  fatii^ue  and 
inconvenience  from  saiiic  peculiarity  in  the  atuiosphere  (not,  ii  would  ap|>car,  tiie  re- 
sult of  any  very  considerable  elevation).  They  found  within  the  cone  a  small  lake, 
apparently  filling  tlip  liollow  of  a  rrater ;  and  scoria  and  lava,  met  with  in  abniulance 
during  the  as(!ent,  indientcd  the  existence,  at  some  remote  |H'riotl,  ofa  volcano.  Un- 
furtimately,  the  baroiriclers  with  whii-h  the  party  were  provided,  were  out  of  order, 
and  Mr.  Urant  hii.s  only  been  alile  to  cstiirmtc  the  height  of  the  mountain  by  approx- 
imation, at  10,000  feel,  whieh  I  believe  to  1m3  under  the  mark.  (See  Mr.  Brant's 
highly  inlereating  memoir  in  the  tenth  volume  of  the  Journal  of  the  Ruyal  Geograph- 
ical Society,  p.  49  ) 

t  Almost  every  village  in  Turkey,  not  on  a  high  road,  and  not  pruvidcd  with  a  car- 
avanserai or  khan,  contains  a  hanse  reserved  exclusively  lor  the  entertainment  of 
giic-ils,  in  which  travellers  are  not  only  lodged,  but  fed,  graiuituusly,  It  is  iiiamtain- 
ed  br  the  joint  (^(mlribution  of  the  villagers,  or  soinelijiies  by  the  chantahle  bequcst.s 
of  individuals,  and  is  under  the  care  eltlier  of  ttic  chief  of  the  village,  or  ofa  jwrson 
expressly  named  for  the  purpose,  and  called  the  Oda-Dnshi,  the  rbief  of  the  gnrsl- 
niora.  Since  the  introdueljun  of  the  lansimal  (refonued  system),  this  custom  is  ra[i- 
idly  falling  into  disuse  in  most  [tarts  of  Turkey  frequented  hy  F^iiropean  tniveilers. 


u 


NINBVSH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  1. 


families  had  recently  returned,  but  having  finished  their  harvest,  were  de- 
sirous of  recrossing  the  frontier,  probably  a  manteuvre  to  avoid  the  payment 
of  certain  dues  and  taxes.  Of  this  Mlsrab  Agha  was  fully  aware.  "  The 
ill-mannered  fellows,"  exclaimed  be.  "  having  liHed  their  bellies  with  ^ood 
things,  and  taken  away  the  fat  of  the  laud,  want  to  go  back  to  tlie  Mus- 
covites ;  but  they  deceive  themselves,  they  must  now  sit  where  they  arc." 
The  emigrants  did  not  indeed  sjieuk  very  favourably  of  the  condition  of 
those  who  had  settled  in  Russia.  Many  wish  to  return  to  their  old  villages 
m  Turkey,  where  they  can  enjoy  far  greater  liberty  and  independence. 
This  was  subsecjueutly  conlirmed  to  me  by  others  who  had  come  back  to 
their  native  settlements.  The  Russian  government,  however,  by  a  strict 
military  surveillance  along  the  Georgian  froatiers,  prevents  as  far  as  pos- 
sible this  desertion. 

Kosli  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  forming  the  southern  boundary  of  the 
plain  of  Hinnis,  through  which  flows  a  branch  of  the  Murad  Su,  or  Lower 
Eujihrates.  We  forded  this  river  near  the  ruins  of  a  bridge  at  Kara  Kupri. 
The  plain  is  generally  well  cultivated,  the  principal  prmhicc  being  corn 
and  hemp.  The  villages,  which  are  thickly  scattered  over  it,  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  extreme  wretchedness,  and,  with  their  low  houses  and  heaps 
of  dried  manure  piled  upon  the  roots  and  in  the  open  spaces  around,  look 
more  like  gigantic  dunghills  than  human  habitations.  The  Kurds  and  Ar- 
menian Cliristians,  both  hardy  and  inilustritms  races,  are  pretty  eijually 
divided  in  numbers,  and  live  sociably  in  the  siimc  lilth  and  misery.  The 
extreme  Beverity  of  the  winter — the  snow  lying  deep  on  the  ground  for 
some  months — jireventa  the  cultivation  of  fruit  trees,  and  the  complete  ab- 
sence of  wodd  gives  the  country  a  desolnte  nspeot.  Bustards,  cranes,  and 
waterfowl  of  various  kinds  abound. 

We  left  the  plain  of  Ilinuis  by  a  pass  through  the  mountain  range  of 
Zernak.  In  the  valleys  we  found  clusters  of  black  tents  belonging  to  the 
nomad  Kurds,  and  the  hill-sides  were  covered  with  their  flocks.  The  sum- 
mit of  a  high  peak  overhanging  the  road  is  occupied  by  the  ruins  of  a  castle 
formerly  held  by  Kurdish  chiefs,  who  levied  black-nifiil  on  travellers,  and 
carried  their  depredations  into  the  plains.  On  reaching  the  top  of  the  pass 
wo  had  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the  Subhan  Dagh.  From  the  village  of 
Kamgol,  where  we  halted  for  the  night,  it  rose  abruptly  before  us.  This 
luaguifteent  peak,  with  the  rugged  moiiiitains  of  Kurdistan,  the  river  Eu- 
pkratrs  winding  through  the  plain,  the  peagants  driving  the  oxen  over  the 
cwa  oil  the  thrcshing-tioor,  and  the  groups  of  Kurdish  hurscmen  with  their 
hag  apears  and  tlowtng  garments,  formed  one  of  those  scenes  of  Eastern 
tmvvl  which  leave  an  indelible  impression  on  the  iinagirialion,  and  bring 
hack  lu  eirter  years  indescribable  feelings  of  pleasure  and  repose. 

Tbtt  thiwhing-floor,  which  added  so  much  to  the  beauty  and  interest  of 
ba  fMttaw  at  Karagol,  had  been  seen  in  all  the  villages  we  had  passed 
hfriac  <MV  day's  journey.  The  abundant  harvest  had  been  gathered  in, 
■AiIm  Mca  was  now  to  be  threshed  and  stored  for  the  winter.     The  pro- 


Chap   I  | 


A  THRESH!  KC'PtOOR. 


15 


cess  adopted  is  simple,  and  nearly  such  as  it  waa  in  patriarchal  times. 
The  children  either  drive  horses  round  and  round  over  the  heaps,  or  stand- 
ing vtpon  a  sledge  stuck  lull  of  sharp  (lints  on  the  under  part,  are  drawn  by 
oxen  over  the  scattered  sheaves.  Such  were  "  the  threshing-sledges  armed 
with  teeth"  mentioned  by  Isaiah.  In  no  instance  are  the  animals  muz- 
sled — "  thou  shalt  not  muzzle  the  ox  when  he  treadeth  out  the  corn  ;"  but 
they  h'nger  to  pick  up  a  scanty  mouthful  as  they  are  urged  on  by  the  boys 
and  young  girls,  to  whom  the  duties  of  the  ihreshmg-floor  are  chiefly  as- 
signed. The  grain  is  winnowed  by  the  men  and  women,  who  throw  the 
corn  and  straw  together  into  the  air  with  a  wooden  shovel,  leaving  the 
wind  to  carry  away  the  chafl"  whilst  the  seed  falls  to  the  ground.     The 


^ 


-* 


Thnwhini;  Ihe  Corn  in  Jlnncitlt. 

wheat  is  then  raked  into  heaps  and  left  on  the  threshing-floor  until  tin- 
tithe-galherer  has  taken  his  portion.  The  straw  is  stored  for  the  winter, 
as  provender  for  the  cattle.* 

The  Kurdish  iuhabitauts  of  this  plain  are  chiefly  of  the  tribe  of  Mamanli. 

•  These  processes  of  lliresliing  an«l  winmiwinR  appear  to  have  been  used  from  the 
pariiest  tune  in  A.'iia.  Isaiiili  alluiles  U)  it  when  addressing  the  Jews  (xxviii.  27,  W 
See  Tranulalifin  hy  Ihn  ficv.  John  Jones): — 

"The  dill  is  not  threshed  wilh  thr  ihrtthinp  xledpc. 
Nor  is  the  wheel  of  Ihe  wain  made  to  mil  over  the  cummin. 

Dread  corn  is  threshed  : 

Bill  not  for  ever  will  he  continue  thus  to  ihresh  it ; 

Though  he  dnvnth  alnnj;  ihc  wheels  of  (us  wain. 

And  his  har.xci'.hv  will  tint  hriil.se  It  lo  dust.'' 
'  The  oxen  and  llie  young  assc.s,  that  111!  Ihe  grtmml 

.Shiill  eat  eU'aii  provender, 

Which  hnih  heeii  wmiitmed  irifA  Ike  thimel  and  with  the  fan."  (xxx.  24.) 
'  Behold,  1  have  made  thee  a  nnw  sliarp  threshing  wain  (sledge)  armed  viih  poinl- 

fd  Udh"  (xh   15  ) 
•"TIkiu  shalt  winnow  them,  and  the  wind  shall  carrj'  ihem  away  "'  (xli.  16  ) 


IG 


NINEVEH  ANT>  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  I. 


once  very  powerful,  and  mustering  nearly  2000  horsemen  for  war,  acconl- 
iag  lo  the  information  I  received  from  one  of  their  petty  chiefs  who  lodged 
with  us  for  (he  night  in  the  guest-house  of  Karagol.  After  the  Russian 
war,  part  of  the  tribe  was  included  in  the  ceded  territory.  Their  chief  re- 
sides at  Maloskert. 

We  crossed  the  principal  branch  of  the  Euphrates  soon  after  leaving 
Karagol.  Although  the  river  is  fordable  at  this  lime  of  the  year,  during 
the  spring  it  is  nearly  a  mile  in  hreudth,  overflowing  ila  banks,  and  con- 
verting the  entire  plain  into  one  great  marsh.  We  had  now  to  pick  our 
way  through  a  swamp,  scaring,  as  we  advanced,  myriads  of  wild-fowl.  I 
have  rarely  seen  game  in  such  abundance  and  such  variety  in  one  spot : 
the  water  swaniied  with  geese,  duck,  and  teal,  the  marshy  ground  with 
herons  and  snipe,  and  the  stubhle  with  bustards  and  crarn-s.  After  the 
rains  the  lower  road  is  impassable,  arid  caravans  are  obliged  to  make  a  con- 
siderable circuit  along  the  foot  of  the  hills. 

We  were  not  sorry  to  escape  the  fever-breeding  swamp  and  mud  of  the 
plain,  and  lo  enter  a  line  of  low  hil)«,  separating  us  from  the  lake  of  Gula 
Shailu.  I  stoppi'd  for  a  few  minuti.'s  at  an  Armenian  mouaBtery,  situated 
on  a  small  platfoinn  overlooking  the  plain.  The  bishop  was  at  his  breakfast, 
his  fare  frugal  and  cpiecopal  enough,  ronsisting  nf  nothing  more  than  boiled 
beans  and  sour  milk,  lie  ii)Hi»ted  that  I  should  partake  of  his  repast,  and 
I  did  so,  in  a  small  room  scarcely  large  enough  to  admit  the  round  tray  con- 
taining the  dishes,  into  which  I  dippid  my  hand  witli  him  and  liis  chaplain 
I  Ibund  him  profoundly  ignorant,  like  the  rest  of  his  class,  grumbling  about 
taxes,  and  abusing  the  Turki.^h  governmeut.  All  I  could  l«am  of  the 
church  was  that  it  contained  the  body  of  a  much  venerated  saint,  who  had 
lived  alxiul  the  time  of  St.  Gregory  the  Illumiiialor,  and  that  it  was  the 
resort  of  the  aiUicted  and  diseased  who  trusted  lo  their  faith,  rather  than 
lo  medicine,  for  relief.  The  whole  establishment  belongs  lo  the  largo  Ar- 
menian village  ofKop,  which  could  be  faintly  distinguished  in  the  plain  be- 
low. The  Kurds  had  plundered  the  convent  of  its  hooks  and  its  linery.  but 
the  church  remained  pretty  well  as  it  had  been  some  fifteen  centuries  ago. 

After  a  pleasant  ride  of  five  hours  we  reached  a  deep  clear  lake,  em- 
bedded in  the  mountains,  two  or  three  pelicans,  "swan  and  shadow  double." 
and  myriads  of  water-fowl,  lazily  Moating  on  its  blue  walfTs.  Piron,  the 
village  where  wc  halted  fur  the  night,  stands  at  the  further  end  of  the 
Ciula  Shailu,  and  is  inhabited  by  Kurds  of  the  tribe  of  Hasananlu,  and  bv 
Armenians,  all  livitig  in  good  fellowship  amid.st  ihe  dirt  and  wretchednesc 
of  their  eternal  dunglicaps.  Ophthalmia  had  made  sad  havoc,  amongst 
them,  and  the  dot-tor  was  soon  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  the  blind  and 
diseased  clamoring  (or  relief.  The  villagers  said  that  a  Persian,  professing 
to  bo  a  Hakim,  had  passed  through  the  place  tome  time  before,  and  had 
offered  to  cure  all  bad  eyes  on  payment  of  a  certain  sum  in  advance.  Thes* 
terms  being  agreed  lo,  he  gave  his  patients  a  powder  which  lell  the  sore 
eyet  as  they  were,  and  destroyed  the  good  ones.     He  then  went  his  way  : 


I 


Chap.  I] 


A  KURDISH  TlLLAflK 


17 


"  And  with  the  money  in  his  pocket  too,"  added  a  ferocious-looking  Kurd, 
whose  appearance  certainly  threw  considerable  doubt  on  the  assertion  : 
*'  but  what  can  one  do  in  these  days  of  accursed  Tanzimat  (reform)  ?" 

The  district  we  had  now  entered  formerly  belonged  to  SheriH'Bey,  the 
rebellious  chief  of  Moiikh,  but,  since  his  capture  last  year,  had  been  made 
miri,  or  government  property.  Although  all  the  Mohammedan  inhabitanta 
of  this  part  of  Kurdistan  are  Kurds,  those  alone  are  called  so  who  live  in 
tents;  those  who  reside  m  villages  are  known  simply  as  "Mussulman." 

The  lake  of  Shailu  is  separaiod  from  the  larger  lake  of  Nazik,  by  a 
range  of  low  hills  about  six  miles  in  breadth.  Wo  reached  the  small 
village  of  Khers,  built  on  its  western  extremity,  in  about  two  hours  and  a 
half,  and  found  the  chief  surrounded  by  the  principal  inhabilants,  seated 
on  a  raised  platform  near  a  well-built  stone  house.  He  assured  me,  stroking 
&  beard  of  spotless  white  to  conlirm  his  wonis,  that  he  was  above  ninet) 
years  of  age,  and  had  never  seen  an  European  before  the  day  of  my  visit 
Half  bhnd,  he  peered  at  me  through  his  blcer  eyes  until  he  had  fully  satis- 
tied  his  curiosity;  then  spoke  contemptuously  of  the  Franks,  anil  abused 
the  Tauzimat,  which  he  declared  had  destroyed  all  Mussulman  spirit,  had 
turned  true  believers  into  infideU,  and  had  brought  his  own  tribe  to  ruin, 
meaning,  of  course,  that  they  could  no  long<?r  prey  upon  their  neighbours. 
His  son,  rnorc  of  a  courtier,  and  probably  thinking  that  stimething  might 
be  gained  by  praising  ihe  present  state  ut  things,  spoke  less  unfavorably 
of  reiorm,  though,  I  doubt  not,  entertaining  equal  aversion  to  it  in  his  heari. 
The  old  gentleman,  notwithstanding  his  rough  exterior,  was  hospitable 
after  his  fushiou,  and  would  not  snlfer  us  to  depart  until  we  had  eaten  of 
every  delicacy  the  villngo  could  afford 

Our  path  lay  along  the  banks  of  the  lake.  The  people  of  Khers  declare 
that  the  Nazik  Gul  only  contains  fish  during  the  spring  of  the  year,  and 
then  but  of  the  one  kind  caught  in  the  lake  of  Wan.  I  was  unable 
to  account  for  this  fact,  repeated  by  the  peasants  whom  we  met  on  our 
road,  until  reaching  the  eastern  end  of  the  hike  I  found  thai,  a  communi- 
cation existed  between  it  and  that  of  Wan,  by  a  deep  ravine,  through 
which  the  waters,  swollen  during  the  rains  and  by  the  melting  of  the  8now^ 
in  spring,  discharge  themselves  near  Akhlat.*  At  this  season  there  was 
only  water  enough  in  the  ravine  to  show  the  diflerence  of  level.  lu  spring 
the  fish  seek  the  creeks  and  fresh-water  streams  to  spawn,  and  at  that  llrii<' 
alone  are  captured  by  the.  inhabitants  of  the  shores  of  the  lake  of  Wan 
During  the  rest  of  the  year,  they  leave  the  shallows  and  are  secure  from 
the  nets  of  the  fishermen,  t    The  only  fish  known  is  of  the  size  and  appear- 


*  The  Shailn  lake  has,  I  was  informed,  a  similar  communication  with  the  .Murad 
Su.  Bolli  lakes  are  wrongly  placed  in  the  Prussian  and  uthfT  maps,  anil  Iheir  out- 
lets nunoticcd. 

t  Yakuti,  in  his  geographical  work,  the  "  Moajcni  el  Uuldan,"  mcnlions  (his  dis- 
appearance of  the  fi.sh,  wliich  are  only  to  be  seen,  he  says,  during  three  months  of 
llM  year.     He  adds,  how«v*-r,  frug»  nnd  shellfi-sh. 

B 


MNEVKH  ANT>  BABYLON, 


[Chap.  I. 


anoe  of  a  herring.  It  is  caught  during  the  season  in  such  abundance  that 
it  forms,  when  dried  and  Raited,  provision  for  the  rest  of  the  year,  and  a 
considerable  article  of  exportation.  I  was  informed,  however,  by  a  Chris- 
tian, that  a  large  fitiih.  probably  of  the  barbel  kind,  was  found  in  the  Nazik 
Gal,  whose  waters,  unlike  those  of  Wan,  are  fresh  and  sweet. 

Leaving  the  Nazik  Gul  we  entered  an  undulating  country  traversed  by 
very  deep  ravines,  mere  channels  cut  into  the  sandstone  by  mountain  tor- 
rents. The  villages  are  built  at  the  bottom  of  these  gulleys,  amidst  fruit 
trees  and  gardens,  sheUered  by  perpendicular  rocks  and  watered  by  running 
streams.  They  are  undiscovered  until  the  traveller  reaches  the  very  edge 
iif  the  precipice,  when  a  pleasant  and  cheerful  scene  opens  suddenly  be- 
neath his  feet.  He  would  have  believed  the  upper  country  a  mere  desert 
had  he  not  spied  here  and  there  in  the  distance  a  peasant  slowly  driving 
his  plough  through  the  rich  soil.  The  inhabitants  of  this  district  are  more 
induslrious  and  ingenious  than  their  neighbours.  They  caiTy  the  produce 
of  their  harvest  not  on  the  backs  of  animals,  aa 
in  most  parts  of  Asia  Minor,  but  in  carts  entire- 
ly made  of  wood,  no  iron  being  used  even  in  the 
vrheels,  which  are  ingeniously  built  of  walnut, 
oak,  and  kara  agatch  (literally,  black  tree — ? 
thorn],  the  stronger  woods  being  used  for  rough 
spokes  kt  into  the  nave.  The  plough  also  diH'era 
from  that  in  genera!  use  in  Asia.  To  the  share 
are  attached  two  parallel  boards,  about  four  feet 
long  and  a  foot  broad,  whjrh  separate  the  soil 
and  leave  a  deep  and  well  defined  furrow. 
We  rode  for  two  or  three  hours  on  these  uplands,  until,  suddenly  reach- 
ing the  edge  of  a  ravine,  a  beautiful  prospect  of  lake,  woodland,  and  mount- 
ain, opened  before  us. 


i&r*()4^r^) 


^^ 


I  or  Wheel  or  Armenlmi 


Anmnian  Pliiugli,  ocir  AUiiit. 


Eaily  Mouulmu  Tomb  u  AUilM. 


CHAPTER  II. 


IMK     LiHtK     or     WAN. AKHLAT. TATAR    T»»IBB. ANCirHT     RKHAIN*. —  A     nCRVISII x 

fKlKNU.— 'Till    Mt'OlR. — ARMKNUN    RKMAINK AN    ARMKNIAN  I'ONVKNT   AND   BISHOP 

JODMNEV    TO   BITLI*. MMRODD    DAOH. — BITLia. — iOL'RNKY   TO  KHKRZAN. VEZIDI   VIL- 

LAUK. 

The  first  view  the  traveller  oLtaiiu  of  the  lake  of  Wan,  on  descending 
towards  it  from  the  hills  above  Akhlat,  is  siiignlarly  bentiliful.  This  great 
inland  sea,  of  the  deepest  blue,  is  bounded  to  the  east  by  ranges  of  serrated 
snow-capfjed  mountains,  [>eeriug  one  ab<.'ve  the  otlier,  and  springing  here 
and  there  into  the  highest  peaks  of  Tiyari  and  Kurdistan  ;  beneath  them 
lies  the  sacred  island  of  Akhtamar,  Just  visible  in  tho  distance,  like  a  dark 
shadow  on  the  water.  At  the  further  end  rises  the  one  sublime  cone  of 
the  Subhaii,  and  along  the  lower  port  of  the  eastern  shores  stretches  the 
Nimroud  Dagh,  varied  in  shape,  and  ricli  in  local  traditions. 

At  our  feet,  as  we  drew  nigh  to  the  lake,  were  the  gardens  of  the  aii- 
«*ient  city  of  Aklilat,  leaning  minarets  and  pf>iuted  mausoleums  pei-pitig 


so 


NJNEVEH  AND  BABYION. 


[Chap.  II. 


above  the  trees.  We  rode  through  vaal  turying-groutida,  a  perfect  forest 
i»f  upright  stones  seven  or  eiglit  foet  high  of  Ihe  richest  rod  colour,  most 
delicately  and  tastefully  carved  with  arahesque  ornaments  and  instiiplions 
111  iho  massive  character  of  the  early  Mussulman  age.  la  the  midst  of 
ihem  rose  here  and  there  a  conical  luTbch*  of  beautifu!  shape,  covered 
with  exquisite  tracery.  The  monuments  of  the  dead  still  stand,  and  have 
become  the  monuments  of  a  cily.  itself  long  rnunbled  into  dust.  Amidst 
orchards  and  gardens  are  scattered  heru  and  there  low  houses  rudely  built 
out  of  the  remains  of  the  earlier  habitations,  and  Iragmeiils  of  cornice  and 
nciilpturo  arc  piled  up  into  walls  around  the  cultivated  plots. 

Leaving  the  servants  lo  pitch  the  tents  on  a  lawn  near  one  of  the  finest 
of  the  old  Mussulman  tombs,  and  iu  a  grove  of  lofty  trees,  beneath  whose 
spreading  branches  wc  could  catch  distant  views  of  the  lake,  I  walked 
through  the  ruins.  Emerging  from  the  gardens  and  crossing  a  part  of  the 
great  burying-ground,  1  came  upon  a  well-presen'ed  mausoleum  of  the 
same  deep  red  stone,  now  glowing  in  the  rays  of  the  sun  ;  its  conical  roof 
rested  on  columns  and  arches,  audi  on  a  kuilrk,  or  place  to  direct  the  face 
in  prayer,  decorated  with  all  the  richness,  yet  elegance,  of  Eastern  taste. 
The  cornice  supporting  the  roof  was  formed  by  many  bands  of  ornatnent, 
each  equally  graceful  though  dill'ering  one  from  the  other.  The  columns 
stood  on  a  base  rising  about  nine  feet  from  the  ground,  the  upper  part  of 
which  was  adorned  with  panels,  each  varying  in  shape,  an<i  containing 
niatiy-angled  recesses,  decorated  with  difierent  palterna,  and  the  lower  pari 
projected  at  an  angle  with  tha  rest  of  the  building.  In  this  basement  was 
the  chamber;  the  mortal  remains  of  its  royal  occupant  had  long  ago  been 
torn  away  and  thrown  to  the  dust.  Around  the  (urbeh  were  scattered 
richly  carved  head  and  fuot  stones,  marking  the  graves  of  less  noble  men  ; 
and  the  whole  was  enclosed  by  a  grxjve  of  lofty  trees,  the  dark-blue  lake 
Iflitlering  beyond.  Whilst  the  scene  was  worthy  of  ihc  pencil  of  a  Turner, 
rach  detail  in  the  building  was  a  study  for  an  aruhilect.  Tradition  names 
the  tomb  that  of  Hullan  Baiandour.t  one  of  the  chitfs  of  the  great  Tatar 
tribes,  who  crossed  the  frontiers  of  Persia  in  the  fifteenth  century.  The 
building  still  resisting  decay  is  now  used  as  a  storehouse  for  grain  and  straw 
by  R  degencrnlo  race,  utterly  unmindful  of  the  glories  of  their  ancestors. 
Near  tlu»  lurbeh  were  others,  less  well  preserved,  but  equally  remarkable 
Im  ide^nnt  ami  varietl  decoration,  their  conical  rooli*  fretted  with  delicate 
tlMMy,  rarvod  in  relief  on  the  red  stone.  They  belong,  according  to  local 
tM^lion.  to  Fultons  of  the  Ak-Koiiyunlu  and  Kara-Kouyunlu  Tatars,  the 
«i»tl4iK>wn  irilifs  of  the  White  and  Black  Sheep. 

P^jfUJ  thn  tnrbeh  of  Bultan   Baiandour,  through  a  deep  ravine   such 

«»  I  Imw  nlrendy  described,  runs  a  brawling  stream,  crossed  by  an  old 

k«t4||w;  ot«<hnrd«  and  gardens  make  the  bottom  of  the  narrow  valley,  and 

•  ■'     'iiii|,.  wliich  someiiincs  covers  a  Mohainmolan  idinb  i.'i  so  called. 

,     I  <i,.    vk-Kouyirnlii,  or  Wliite-shcep  Tatars,  from  uiroin  thu  trilte  de- 


22 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Ciup.  II. 


the  cultivated  ledges  as  seen  from  above,  a  bed  of  foliage.  The  lofty  per- 
putiJicular  rocks  risiJig  on  both  sides  are  liturally  SioiieycombL'd  with  en- 
trances to  artificial  caves,  ancient  tombs,  or  dwelling-places.  On  a  high 
isolated  mass  of  sandstone  stand  the  walls  and  towers  of  a  castle,  the  re- 
mains of  the  ancient  city  of  Khelath,  celebrated  in  Armenian  historj',  and 
one  of  the  seats  of  Armenian  power.  I  ascended  to  the  crumbling  ruins, 
and  examined  the  excavations  in  the  rocks.  The  latter  are  now  used  as 
habitations,  and  as  stables  for  berds  and  Hocks.  The  spacious  entrances 
uf  some  are  filled  up  with  stones  for  protection  aad  comfort,  a,  small  opening 
being  left  for  a  doorway.  Before  them,  on  the  ledges  overlooking  the  ra- 
vine, stood  here  and  there  groups  of  as  noble  a  race  as  I  have  anywhere 
seen,  tall,  brawny  men,  handsome  women,,  and  beautiful  children.  They 
were  Kurds,  dressed  in  the  flowing  and  richly-colored  robes  of  their  tribe. 
I  talked  with  thenti  and  found  them  courteous,  intelligent,  and  communi- 
cative. 

Many  of  the  tombs  are  approached  by  flights  of  steps,  also  cut  in  the 
rock,  An  entrance,  generally  square,  unless  subsequently  widened,  and 
either  perfectly  plain  or  decorated  with  a  simple  cornice,  opens  into  a  spa- 
cious chamber,  which  frequently  leads  into  others  on  the  same  level,  or  by 
narrow  Mights  of  steps  into  upper  rooms.  There  are  no  traces  of  the  means 
by  which  these  entrances  were  closed  :  they  probably  were  so  by  stones, 
turning  on  rude  hinges,  or  rolling  on  nillers.*  Escavaled  in  the  walls,  or 
nomelimcs  sunk  into  the  floor,  are  recesses  or  troughs,  in  which  once  lay  the 
l)odii-s  of  the  dead,  whilst  in  small  niches,  in  the  sides  of  the  chambers, 
wore  placed  lamps  and  sacrificial  objects.  Tombs  in  every  respect  similar 
arc  lourid  throughout  the  mountains  of  Assyria  and  Persia,  as  far  south  as 
Shiraz ;  but  I  have  never  met  with  them  in  such  abundance  as  at  Akh- 
lat.  Their  contents  were  long  ago  the  spoil  of  conquerors,  and  the  ancient 
ehninburs  of  the  dead  have  been  for  centuries  the  abodes  of  the  living. 

lioaviiig  the  valley  and  winding  through  a  forest  of  fruit  trees,  here  an«l 
ihetxs  intergpersed  with  a  few  primitive  dwellings,  I  came  to  the  old  Turk- 
ish oastl«,  standing  on  the  very  edge  of  the  lake.  It  is  a  pure  Ottoman 
rdifiee,  lc««  aneient  than  the  turbehs,  or  the  old  walls  towering  above  the 
r«riii«.  luitcri|itini>g  over  the  gateways  state  that  it  was  partly  built  by 
^*uh4n  Srliin,  and  partly  by  Sultan  Suleiman,  and  over  the  northern  en- 
*nuM«  wrurs  the  date  of  i»75  of  the  Hejira.     The  walls  and  towers  arc 


•  TiHmbs,  with  rnirances  closei)  liy  stones,  ingeniously  made  to  roll  hack  into  a 
^ii>««,  aiBrvnl  II)  mnnv  |mrt4)  of  tlie  V.nsl.  Wu  learti  from  both  (lie  Old  anil  New 
roMoowav  xhM  »uoti  tKUilm  wen-  in  conmion  use  in  Paleaiine,  as  well  as  in  otiiei 
'!<Miitrt««  oi  AsKk  The  slmie  was  ••  rolled  away  from  the  sepiiWire"  in  wlik-h  Ctirisi 
%^U«i.  akirk  «v  may  gnlltrr  Irmii  llie  cnnlcxt  was  ii  otiHnibcr  cut  into  the  rix-k, 
lui  >nlM4l4  to  Ty<«i««  nutny  bodies,  iillluniiE!!)  it  had  not  been  used  lierorc.  Such, 
4^1^  ^^  ^  a^  «(  Lanrtts.     UupbnH,  wtio  m  singularly  correct  in  rldineattng 

QMtem  %Mb  ^al  mh^MH  tn  tim  seri|>tural  {iieces,  has  llius  purtrayed  the  toiub 

*Ui»  !!Ww  •  ft  4kaiA  ik  liw  OKfonl  CnUectiuti. 


Chap.  11] 


Binns  OF  AKHLAT. 


23 


■till  standing,  and  need  but  slight  repair  to  be  again  rendered  capable  of 
del'ence.  They  inclose  a  furl,  and  abi^ut  200  houses,  with  two  niosques 
and  baths,  fast  falling  into  dt'cay,  and  only  tenanted  by  a  few  miserable 
families,  who,  too  poor  or  too  idle  to  build  anew,  linger  amongst  the  ruins. 
In  the  fort,  separated  from  the  dwelling  places  by  a  high  thick  wall  and  a 
ponderous  iron-bound  gate  now  hanging  half  broken  away  from  its  rusty 
hinges,  there  dwelt,  until  very  recently,  a  notorious  Kurdish  freebooter,  of 
the  uarnc  of  Mehemet  Bey,  who,  secure  in  this  stronghold,  ravaged  the 
lurrounding  country',  and  sorely  vexed  its  Christian  inhabitants.  Ue  Hed 
on  the  approach  of  the  Turkish  troops,  after  their  successful  expedition 
against  Nur-Uitah  Bey,  and  is  supposed  to  be  wandering  in  the  rnuuntains 
of  southern  Kurdistan. 

Afler  the  capture  of  Beder  Khan  Bey,  Osman  Pasha,  the  commander-in- 
chief  of  the  Turkish  army,  a  man  of  enterprise  and  liberal  views,  formed 
a  plan  for  restoring  to  Akhlat  its  ancient  prosperity,  by  making  it  the  cap- 
ital of  the  north-eastern  provinces  of  the  Turkish  empire.  He  proposed, 
by  grants  of  land,  to  induce  the  inhabitants  of  the  ncighbcuring  villages  to 
remove  to  the  town,  and  by  peculiar  privileges  to  draw  to  the  new  settle- 
ment the  artizans  of  Wan,  Bitlis,  Moash,  and  even  Erzeroom.  Its  posi- 
tion on  the  borders  of  a  vast  lake  is  favourable  to  trafHc,  and  its  air  is  con- 
sidered very  salubrious.  From  its  vicinity  to  the  Persian  and  Russian 
frontiers  it  might  become  of  considerable  importance  as  a  military  depot. 
Osman  Pasha  was  about  to  construct  a  palace,  a  bazar,  and  barracks,  and 
to  repair  the  walls  of  the  old  castle,  when  death  put  an  end  to  his  schemes 
In  Turkey  a  man  in  power,  from  principle,  never  carries  out  the  plans,  or 
finishes  the  buildings  of  his  predecessor;  and  Akhkt,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  spota  that  the  imagination  can  picture,  will  probably  long  remain 
a  heap  of  ruins,  {scarcely  a  sail  flutters  on  the  water.  The  only  com- 
merce is  carried  on  by  a  few  miserable  vessels,  which  venture  in  the  finest 
weather  to  leave  the  little  harbour  of  Wan  to  search  for  wood  and  corn  on 
the  southern  shores  of  the  lake. 

The  ancient  city  of  Khelath  was  the  capital  of  the  Armenian  province 
of  Peznouni.  It  came  under  the  Mohammedan  power  aa  early  as  the  ninth 
century,  but  was  conquered  by  the  <Treek8  of  the  Lower  Empire  at  the 
end  of  the  tenth  The  SeSjuks  took  it  from  them,  and  it  then  again  be- 
came a  Mussulman  principality.  It  was  long  a  place  of  contention  tor  thi' 
early  Arab  and  Tatar  cotiquerors.  Shah  Armen*  reduced  it  towards  the 
end  of  the  twelfth  century.  It  was  besieged,  without  result,  by  the  cele- 
brated 8aleh-ed-din,  and  was  finally  captured  by  his  nephew,  the  son  of 
Melek  Adel,  in  a.  D.  1207. 

The  sun  was  setting  as  I  returned  to  the  tents.     The  whole  scene  was 

•  Shall  Armen,  i.  e.  King  of  .■irmpnia,  ■was  a  title  assume*!  by  a  dynasty  reii^ijijj 
at  Akhlat,  founded  hy  Sukman  Kothby,  a  slave  of  the  Seljuk  prince,  Koilibediii  Is- 
mail,  who  established  an  independent  principality  at  .4l(lilat  in  a.  d.  1100,  which  lasted 
eighty  years. 


N1>'EVEH  ANT)  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  II. 


lighted  up  with  iu  golden  tiats,  and  Claude  never  composed  a  subject  more 
beautifiil  than  was  here  furnished  by  nature  herself.  1  was  seated  out- 
side my  tent  gazing  listlessly  on  the  scone,  when  I  was  roused  by  a  well- 
remembered  cr>',  but  one  which  I  had  not  heard  lor  years.  I  turned  about 
and  saw  standing  before  me  a  Persian  Dervish,  clothed  in  the  fawn-colored 
gazelle  skin,  and  wearing  the  conical  red  cap,  edged  with  fur,  and  embroid- 
ered in  black  braid  with  verses  from  the  Koran  and  invocations  to  Ali,  the 
patron  of  his  sect.  Ho  was  no  less  surprised  than  1  had  been  at  hia  greet- 
ing, when  1  gave  him  the  answer  peculiar  to  men  of  his  order.  He  was 
my  devoted  Irieud  and  servant  from  that  moment,  and  sent  his  boy  to  fetch 
a  dish  of  pears,  for  which  ho  actually  refused  a.  present  ten  times  their 
value.  He  declared  that  I  was  one  of  his  craft,  and  was  fairly  puzzled  to 
make  out  where  1  had  picked  up  my  knowledge  of  hia  mystery  and  phra- 
seology. But  he  was  not  my  lirst  Dervish  friend ;  1  had  had  many  ad- 
ventures in  company  with  such  as  he. 

Whilst  we  were  seated  chatting  in  the  soft  moonlight,  Hormnzd  was 
suddenly  embraced  by  a  young  man  resplendent  with  silk  and  gold  em- 
broidery and  armed  to  the  teeth.  He  was  a  chief  from  the  district  oi  Mo- 
sul and  well  known  to  us.  Hearing  of  our  arrival  he  had  hastened  Ironi 
his  village  at  some  distance  to  welcome  us,  and  to  endeavor  to  persuade 
rae  to  move  the  encampment  and  partake  of  hia  hospitality.  Failing,  of 
course,  in  prevailing  upon  mo  to  change  my  quarters  for  the  night,  he  sent 
his  servant  lo  hia  wife,  who  was  a  lady  of  Mosul,  and  l(^rme^ly  a  friend  of 
my  companion's,  for  a  sheep.  We  found  ourselves  thus  unexpectedly 
amongst  friends.  Our  circle  was  further  increased  by  Christians  and  Mus- 
sulmans of  Akhlat,  and  the  night  was  far  spent  before  wo  rciired  to  rest. 

In  tlie  morning,  soon  niter  suurii^e,  1  renewed  my  wanderings  amongst 
the  rums,  lirst  calling  upon  the  Mudir,  or  goveruor,  who  received  me  seated 
under  his  own  (ig-tree.  Ho  was  an  old  greybeard,  a  native  of  the  place, 
and  of  a  straightforward,  honest  bearing.  I  had  to  listen  to  the  usual 
complaints  of  poverty  and  over-taxation,  although,  after  all,  the  village, 
with  Its  extensive  gardens,  only  contributed  yearly  ten  purses,  or  less  than 
forly-five  pounds,  to  the  public  revenue.  This  sum  seems  small  enough. 
but  without  trade,  and  distant  from  any  high  road,  there  was  not  a  para 
of  ready  money,  acconliiig  to  the  Mudir,  in  the  place. 

The  governor's  cottage  stood  near  the  northern  edge  of  Akhlat,  and  a 
little  beyond  it  the  road  again  emerged  into  that  forest  of  richly-carved 
tombs  which  surrounds  the  place,  like  a  broad  belt — the  accumulated  re- 
mains of  successive  generations  The  triumph  of  the  dead  over  the  living 
is  perhaps  only  thus  seen  in  the  East.  In  England,  where  we  grudge  our 
dead  their  last  resting  places,  the  habitations  of  the  living  encroach  on  the 
burial-ground  ;  in  the  East  it  is  the  graveyard  which  drives  bulbre  it  the 
cottage  and  the  mansion.  The  massive  headstones  still  stand  erect  long 
after  the  dwelling-places  of  even  the  descendants  of  those  who  placed 
them  there  have  passed  away.     Several  handsome  turbehs,  resembling  in 


Chap.  11} 


AN  IRMBNUN  CONVBNT. 


25 


ibeir  general  form  those  I  hail  already  visited,  though  diflenng  from  them 
in  their  elegant  and  elaborate  details,  were  scattered  amongst  the  raorn 
humble  tombs. 

From  the  Mudir's  house  I  rode  to  the  more  anrient  part  of  the  city  and 
to  the  rock  tombs.  The  ravine,  nt  no  great  distance  from  where  it  joins 
the  lake,  is  divided  into  two  branches,  each  watered  by  an  abundant 
stream.  I  followed  them  both  for  four  or  five  miles,  ascending  by  the  one, 
then  crossing  the  upland  which  divides  them,  and  descending  by  the  other. 
Both  ttHbrd  innumerable  pleasant  prospects, — the  water  breaking  in  fre- 
quent cascades  oVor  the  rocky  bottom,  beneath  thick  clusters  of  gigantic 
chesnuts  and  elms,  the  excavated  clifls  forming  bold  frames  to  the  pic- 
tures. I  entered  many  of  the  rock-tombs,  and  found  all  of  them  to  be  of 
the  same  character,  though  varying  in  size.  The  doors  of  some  have  been 
enlarged,  to  render  the  interior  more  convenient  as  dwelling-places,  and 
there  are  but  few  which  have  not  been  blackened  by  the  smoke  of  the 
fires  of  many  centuries.  The  present  population  of  the  ravine,  small  and 
scanty  enough,  resides  almost  entirely  in  these  caves.  Amongst  the  tombs 
there  are  galleries  and  passages  in  the  cliffs  without  ap^iaront  use,  and 
flights  of  steps,  cut  out  of  the  rock,  which  seem  to  lead  nowhere.  I 
searched  and  inquired  in  vain  for  inscriptions  and  remains  of  sculpture,  and 
yot  the  place  is  of  imdonbted  antiquity,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
ootetnporary  sites  where  cuneiform  inscriptions  do  exist. 

Iluring  my  wanderings  I  entered  an  Armenian  church  and  convent 
standing  on  a  ledge  of  rock  overhanging  the  stream,  about  four  miles  up 
the  southern  ravine.  The  convent  was  tenanted  by  a  bishop  and  two 
priests.  They  dwelt  in  a  small  low  room,  scarcely  lighted  by  a  hole  care- 
fully blocked  up  with  a  sheet  of  oiled  paper  to  shut  out  the  cold  ;  dark, 
rously,  and  damp,  a  very  parish  clerk  in  England  wovtid  have  shuddered 
at  the  sight  of  such  a  residence.  Their  bed,  a  carpet  worn  to  threads, 
spread  on  the  rotten  boards ;  their  diet,  the  coarsest  sandy  broad  and  a 
little  sour  curds,  witli  beans  and  mangy  meat  for  a  jubilee.  A  nii.<crable 
old  woman  sat  in  a  kind  of  vault  under  the  staircase  preparing  their  food, 
and  passing  her  days  in  pushing  to  and  fro  with  her  skinny  hands  the  goat's 
skin  containing  the  milk  to  be  shaken  into  butter,  iihv  was  the  house- 
keeper and  handmaiden  of  the  episcopal  estnbliahmont.  The  chwrrh  was 
somewhat  higher,  though  even  darker  than  the  dwellirig-nxmi,  and  was 
partly  used  to  store  a  heap  of  mouldy  corn  and  some  primitive  agricultural 
implements.  The  whole  was  well  nnd  slrongly  built,  and  had  the  evi- 
dent marks  of  antiquity  The  bishop  showed  me  a  rude  cross  carved  on 
ft  rock  outside  the  convent,  which,  he  declared,  had  been  cut  by  one  of  the 
disciples  of  the  f?aviour  himself  It  is,  at  any  rate,  considertd  a  relic  of 
very  great  sanctity,  and  is  an  object  of  pilgrimage  for  the  surrounding 
Christian  popnlation.  Near  the  spot  are  several  tombs  of  former  bishops, 
the  head  and  fool  stones  of  the  same  deep  mellow  reil  slone,  and  hs  elab- 
orately carved  as  those  of  the  old  Tatar  chiefs  near  the  lake,  although  dif- 


26 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  II. 


feririg  from  them  somewhat  in  the  style  of  their  ornansents ;  the  cross,  and 
the  bold,  square,  ancient  Armenian  character  being  used  iuslead  of  the 
flowerj'  Bcroll-work  and  elongalt-d  letters  of  the  early  Mussulman  conquer- 
ors. The  bishop,  uotwithstandin^  his  poverty,  M^as,  on  the  whole,  better 
informed  than  others  of  his  order  I  had  met  in  the  provinces.  He  had  vis- 
ited the  capital,  had  even  studied  there,  and  possessed  a  few  books,  amongst 
which,  fortunately  for  himself,  and  1  hope  for  his  eong^regalion,  he  was  not 
ashamed  to  include  several  of  the  very  useful  works  issued  by  the  Ameri- 
can missionary  press,  anil  by  that  praiseworthy  religious  society,  the  Mek- 
hitarists  of  Venice.  The  older  books  and  MSS.  of  tho  church,  together 
with  its  little  store  of  plate,  its  hangings,  and  its  finery,  were  gone.  The 
last  rummage  was  made  by  Mehemct  Bey,  the  Kurdish  freebooter  of  the 
castle  on  the  lake,  who,  having  been  expelled  from  liis  stronghold  by  the 
exasperateil  inhabitants  of  Akhlat,  took  refuge  in  the  Armenian  convent, 
and  defended  it  for  nearly  a  year  against  his  assailants,  living  of  course, 
the  while,  upon  the  B*!anty  stores  of  the  priests,  and  carrying  oil",  when  he 
had  no  longer  need  of  the  position,  the  tittle  property  he  had  pulled  out 
of  every  nook  and  corner.  The  tyramiy  of  this  chief  had  driven  nearly  the 
whole  Christian  population  from  Akhlat.  About  twenty  families  only  re- 
mained, and  they  were  huddled  together  in  the  rock  tombs,  and  on  the 
ledges  immediiilety  opposite  the  eonveiit.  They  are  not  allowed  to  possess 
the  gardens  and  orchards  near  the  lake,  wbi(;h  are  looked  upon  as  the  pe- 
culiar property  of  Ihe  ancient  Mussulman  inhabitants,  lo  bo  enjoyed  by  their 
orthodox  descendants,  who  employ  neither  care  nor  labor  in  keeping  them 
up,  tnisting  to  a  rich  soil  and  a  favorable  climate  for  their  annual  fruits. 

I  was  again  struck  during  my  ride  with  the  beauty  of  the  children,  who 
aasembled  round  me,  issuing,  like  true  Troglodytes,  from  their  rocky  dwell- 
ing-places. Near  the  end  of  the  ravine,  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice  clothed 
with  creepers,  is  a  half-fallen  turbeh,  of  elegant  proportions  and  rich  in  arch- 
itectural detail.  It  overhangs  the  transparent  stream,  which,  struggling 
down  its  rocky  bed,  is  crossed  by  a  ruined  bridge  ;  a  scene  calling  to  mind 
the  well-known  view  of  Tivoli.  Beyond,  and  nearer  to  the  lake,  are  other 
turbchs,  all  of  which  I  examined,  endeavpriug  to  retain  some  slight  record 
of  their  jieouliar  ornaments.  The  natives  of  the  place  followed  me  as  I 
wandered  about  and  found  names  for  the  aticieiit  chiefs  in  whose  honor  the 
maueoleums  had  been  erected.  Amongst  them  were  Iskender,  Hassan,  and 
Haroun,  the  Padishas,  or  sultans,  of  the  Tatar  tribes.* 


*  Iskender,  the  son  of  Kara  Yusuf,  second  sultan  or  the  Tatar  dynasty  of  the 
Blnck  Sheep,  began  to  rci?n  a.  d.  1421,  and  was  murdered  by  his  son,  Sliah  Kolad. 
HaHsan,  comnionly  called  Usun,  or  the  Loni;,  Che  first  sultan  of  the  Daiandouri,  or 
White  Sheep,  Tatars,  sucoeeded  to  the  tlirwne  x.  d.  1467.  Neither  of  these  sultans, 
however,  appear  lo  have  died  ut  .-Vkhlat.  1  have  been  unahle  to  find  the  name  of 
Haroini  among.it  the  siiltiins  of  thi'se  Tatar  dynasliea.  It  is  possihle  that  lie  tur- 
bchs may  be  more  ancient  than  the  period  as-signed  to  them  by  the  inhabitants  of 
Akhlat.  and  that  they  may  belong  to  »ome  of  the  earlier  Mussulman  conquerora. 


Chap.  U.] 


ASMBNUN  ARCinTECTURE. 


27 


On  my  return  to  our  encampment  the  tents  were  struck,  and  the  caravan 
had  already  be^an  it§  march.  Time  would  not  permit  me  to  delay,  and 
with  a  deep  longing  to  linger  on  this  favored  spot  I  i^lowly  followed  the  road 
leading  along  the  margin  of  the  lake  to  Bitlis.  I  have  seldom  seen  a  fair- 
er scene,  one  richer  in  natural  beauties.  The  artist  and  the  lover  of  na- 
ture may  equally  find  at  Akhlat  objects  of  study  and  delight.  The  archi- 
tect, or  the  traveller,  interested  in  the  history  of  that  graceful  and  highly 
original  branch  of  art,  which  attained  its  full  perfection  under  the  Arab 
rulers  of  Egypt  and  8pain,  should  extend  his  Journey  to  the  remains  of  an- 
cient Armenian  cities,  far  from  high  roads  and  mostly  unexplored.  Ue 
would  then  trace  how  that  architecture,  deriving  its  name  from  Byzantium, 
bad  taken  the  same  development  in  the  East  as  it  did  in  the  West,  and  how 
its  subsequent  combination  with  the  elaboriitu  decoration,  the  varied  out- 
line, and  tasteful  coloring  of  Persia  had  produced  tlie  style  termed  Sara- 
cenic, Arabic,  and  Moresque.  He  would  discover  almost  daily,  details,  or- 
naments, and  forms,  recalling  to  his  mind  the  various  orders  of  architecture, 
which,  at  an  early  period,  succeedeJ  to  each  other  in  Western  Europe  and 
in  England  ;•  modiBcations  of  style  for  which  we  are  tnaiuly  indebted  to 
the  East  during  its  close  union  with  the  West  by  the  bond  of  Christianity. 
The  Crusaders,  too,  brought  back  into  Christendom,  on  their  return  from 
Asia,  a  taste  for  that  rich  and  harmonious  union  of  color  and  architecture 
which  had  already, been  so  successfully  introduced  by  the  Arabs  into  the 
countries  they  had  cunqueretl. 

This  connection  between  Eastern  and  Western  architecture  is  one  well 
worthy  of  study,  and  cannot  be  belter  illustrated  than  by  the  early  Chris- 
tian ruins  of  Armenia,  and  those  of  the  Arsacian  and  };as»anian  periods  still 
existing  in  Persia.  As  yet  it  has  been  ahnost  entirely  oveilookiMl,  nor  are 
there  any  plans  or  drawings  of  even  the  best  known  Byzantine,  or  rather 
Armenian,  remajiis  in  Asia  Minor,  upon  which  suflictent  reliance  can  be 
placed  to  admit  of  the  analogies  between  the  styles  being  fully  proved. 
The  union  of  early  Christian  and  Persian  art  and  architecture  produced  a 
style  too  little  known  and  studied,  yet  atlording  combinations  of  beauty  and 
grandeur,  of  extreme  delicacy  of  detail  and  of  boldness  of  outline,  worthy 
of  the  highest  order  of  intellect. t 


•  The  sketch,  not  very  accurate  unfortunately  in  its  details,  of  the  mined  Arme- 
nian church  at  VarMthan  (p.  6.),  will  flufficienlly  show  my  meaning:,  and  ixunl  out 
llie  connection  indicawd  in  ihc  text.  I  vvoulit  also  refer  to  M.  Tfxier'a  fiilio  work  on 
Armenia  and  Persia,  fnr  many  examplcB  of  Armenian  rhurrlies,  iltustratint:  the  iran- 
eition  lielween  llie  Uviantine  and  wlml  wc  may  undoulitedly  lenu  Uulhic.  It  would 
lie  of  conaiilcrab](:-  tiiiiiorianee  to  study  tlie  remahis  of  cliurclies  uidl  scuttercd  over 
'Armenia,  am)  oY  whicli  no  iieeurate  plans  or  drawings  Imvc  been  piddislu'd. 

t  The  Arabs,  a  wdd  aod  nni'idtivali'd  jM?o|de,  probably  di'rivcd  ttieir  first  notions 
of  architecture  on  ihe  conquest  ofilic  Pt"r.sian  jirovjni'ps.  Tire  ijpciiliar  and  tiiichly 
laoleful  style  of  the  Peraiaos,  of  wliich  tracjcs  may  still  Ih"  seen  in  the  riinunis  ofthe 
celebrated  pmlnce  of  Chosroes,  at  Ctesiphon,  and  in  other  ruins  of  soulliern  Persia 
■nd  Khuziatan,  united  witii  the  Dyzaatino  cliurehea  and  palaces  of  Syria,  produced 


28 


NlNEXnEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  II 


Our  road  skirted  the  foot  of  the  Nimroud  Dap-h,  which  stretches  from 
Akhlat  to  the  fioulherii  extremity  of  the  lake.  We  (crossed  several  dykes 
of  lava  and  scoria,  and  wide  mud-torrents  now  dry,  the  outpourings  of  a 
volcano  long  since  extinct,  but  the  crater  of  which  may  probably  still  be 
traced  in  a  small  lake  said  to  exist  on  the  very  summit  of  the  mountain. 
There  are  several  villages,  chiefly  inhabited  by  Chrislians,  built  on  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  or  in  the  ravines  worn  by  the  streiiiiis  desccndinn;  iVom  ihe  bdis. 
Ouf  r<md  gradually  led  away  from  the  lake.  With  Cawal  Yusuf  and  my 
compatiions  I  left  the  caravan  far  behind.  The  night  cama  on,  and  we 
were  shroutJcd  in  darkness.  We  souehl  in  vain  for  the  village  which  was 
to  ttliiiird  us  a  resting-place,  and  soon  lost  our  uncertain  track.  The  Cawal 
took  the  opportunity  of  ri-lating  talcs  rnlli'ctcd  during  former  journeys  on 
this  spot,  of  robber  Kurds  and  murdered  Iravellcrs,  which  did  not  lend  to 
remove  the  anxiety  felt  by  some  of  my  party.  At  length,  after  wandering 
to  and  frti  for  above  an  hour,  we  heard  the  distant  jingle  of  the  caravan 
bells.  We  rode  in  the  direction  of  the  welcome  sound,  and  soon  found  our- 
selves at  the  Armenian  village  of  Keswack,  standing  in  a  small  bay,  and 
sheltered  by  a  rocky  promontory  jutting  boldly  into  the  lake. 

Next  morning  we  rode  along  the  margin  of  the  lake,  still  crossing  the 
spurs  of  the  Nimroud  Dagh,  furrowed  by  mimorous  streams  of  lava  and 
mud.  In  one  of  the  deep  gulleys,  opening  from  the  mountain  to  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  arc  a  number  of  isolated  masses  of  sandstone,  worn  into  fantastic 
shapes  by  the  winter  torrents,  which  swet-p  down  from  the  hilis.  The  peo- 
ple of  the  couutrj'  call  them  "the  Camels  of  Nimrod."  Tradition  says  that 
the  rebellious  patriarch  endeavoring  to  buibi  an  inaccussiblo  castle,  strong 
enough  to  defy  both  (jod  and  man,  the  Almighty,  to  punish  his  arrogance, 
turned  the  workmen  as  they  were  working  into  stone.  The  rocks  on  the 
Itorder  oi' the  lake  are  the  camels,  who  with  their  burdens  were  petrified 
into  a  perpetual  memorial  of  the  Divine  vengeance.  The  unfinished  walls 
of  the  castle  are  still  to  he  seen  on  the  top  of  the  motinlain  ;  and  the  sur- 
round ntg  country,  the  seal  of  a  primnival  race,  abounds  in  similar  tradi- 
tions. 

Wo  left  the  southern  end  of  the  lake,  near  the  Armenian  village  of  Tad- 
wan,  once  a  place  of  some  importance,  and  containing  a  caravanserai, 
mosques,  and  baths  built  by  Kh'wrew  Pasha  in  the  sixteenth  century.  En- 
tering an  undulating  country  we  soon  gazed  for  the  last  time  on  the  deep 
blue  expanse  of  water,  and  on  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  Kakkiari  moiuitains. 
The  small  trickling  streams,  now  running  towards  the  south,  and  a  gradual 
descent  showed  that  we  had  crossed  the  water-shed  of  central  Asia,  and  had 
reached  the  valleys  of  Assyria,  Here  and  there  the  ruins  of  a  line  old  khan, 
ita  dark  recesses,  vaulted  niches,  and  spacious  stalls,  blackened  \vith  the 

the  Saracenic  Already  some  such  modification  liad,  I  am  conyinced,  taken  place  in 
Armctiia  t»y  a  similar  process,  the  Persian  ami  Fniperial  power  tipuig  continiiallv 
brought  into  contact  in  that  kingdom.  I  cannot  dwell  lunger  upon  tins  suViject,  which 
well  merits  investigation. 


Chap.  11] 


TOWN  OP  BITLIS. 


29 


Bmuke  of  centuries,  served  to  murk  one  of  the  great  highways,  leading  ia 
iho  days  of  Turkish  proapority  from  central  Armenia  to  Baghdad.  We  hod 
crossed  this  road  in  the  plain  of  Hiunis.  It  runs  from  Erzeroont  to  Muush 
and  thenoc  to  Bitlis,  leaving  to  tho  east  tho  Niinroud  Dagh,  which  sepa- 
rates it  (roni  the  lake  of  Wan.  Conunerce  has  deserted  it  for  very  many 
years,  and  its  bridges  and  caravanserais  have  long  fallen  into  decay  ;  whea 
with  the  restoration  of  order  and  tranquillity  to  this  part  of  Turkey,  trade 
shall  revive,  it  may  become  once  more  an  important  thoroughfare,  uniting 
the  northern  and  southern  provinces  ol  the  em]iire. 

We  soon  entered  a  rugged  ravine  worn  by  the  mountain  rills,  collected 
into  a  large  stream.  This  was  one  of  tho  many  head  waters  of  the  Tigris. 
It  wns  flowing  tumullnouely  to  our  own  Ixmrne,  and,  as  we  gazed  upon  the 
troubled  waters,  they  sucnird  to  carry  us  nearer  to  our  journey's  end.  The 
ravine  was  at  first  wild  and  rocky  ;  cultivated  spots  next  appeared,  scat- 
tered in  the  dry  bwl  of  the  torrent ;  then  a  few  gigantic  trees  ;  ganloiis  and 
orchards  iidlowcd,  and  at  length  the  narrow  valley  opened  on  the  long 
straggling  town  of  Bitlis. 

Tho  governor  hud  provided  quarters  for  us  in  a  large  bouse  belonging  to 
an  Armenian,  who  had  been  tailor  to  Boder  Khan  Bey.  From  the  terrace 
before  the  gale  wc  looked  down  U)ion  the  bazars  built  in  the  bottom  of  a 
deep  gulley  in  the  conlre  of  the  town.  On  an  isolated  rock  opjusitc  to  us 
TOHe  a  frowning  castle,  and,  on  the  top  of  a  lufiy  barren  hill,  the  fortified 
dweUing  of  Sherifl'Bey,  the  rebel  chief,  who  hud  for  years  held  Bitlis  and 
the  surrounding  country  in  subjection,  defying  the  authority  and  tho  arms 
of  the  8ultan.  Here  und  there  on  the  mountain  sides  were  little  sunny 
laiidM-apes,  gardens,  p<>jilar  trees,  and  low  white  bouses  surroumled  by 
trcllised  vines. 

My  parly  was  now,  for  the  first  time  during  the  journey,  visited  with 
that  curse  of  Eastern  travel,  fever  and  ague.  The  doctor  was  prostrate, 
and  having  then  no  exporience  of  the  malady,  at  once  had  dreams  of  typhus 
and  malignant  fevor.  A  day's  rest  was  necessary,  and  our  jaded  horses 
needed  it  as  well  as  wo,  fur  there  were  bad  mountain  roads  and  long 
marches  before  us.  I  had  a  further  object  in  remaining.  Three  near  rela- 
tions of  Cawal  Yusuf  returning  from  their  annual  visitation  to  the  Yezidi 
tribes  in  Georgia  and  northern  Armenia,  had  been  murdered  two  years  be- 
fore, near  Bitlis,  at  the  instigation  of  tho  Kurdish  Bey.  The  money  col- 
lected by  the  Cawals  for  the  benefit  of  the  sect  and  its  priesthood,  together 
with  their  personal  eflbots,  had  been  taken  by  Sherifl'  Bey,  and  I  was  de- 
sirous of  aiding  Cawal  Yusuf  in  their  recovery.  Reshid  Pasha  had  given 
mc  an  ofHcial  order  for  their  restoration  out  of  the  property  of  the  late  chief, 
and  it  rested  with  mc  to  see  it  enforced.  I  called  curly  in  the  nioniiug  on 
the  mudir  or  governor,  one  of  the  household  of  old  Essad  Pasha,  who  wa» 
at  that  time  governor-general  of  Kurdistan,  including  Bitlis,  Moush,  and  the 
surrounding  country,  and  resided  at  Diarbekir.  He  gave  mc  the  asiiistance 
I  required  for  tho  recovery  of  the  property  of  the  murdered  Cawals,  and 


30 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap   U. 


spoke  in  great  coinempt  of  the  Kurds  now  that  they  had  Weii  subdued, 
treating  like  doga  those  who  stood  humbly  before  him.  The  Turks,  how- 
ever, had  but  recently  dared  to  assume  this  hauphty  tone.  Long  after  the 
fall  of  Beder  Khan  Bey,  the  chicfa  of  Hakkiari,  Wan,  Moush,  and  Bitiis 
had  maintained  their  indoperideiice,  and  SheriliBey  had  only  been  seul 
that  spring  to  the  capital  to  pass  the  rest  of  his  days  in  exile  with  the  au- 
thor of  the  Nestorian  massacre. 

The  governor  ordered  cawassea  to  accompany  me  through  the  town.  I 
had  been  told  that  ancient  inscriptions  existed  in  the  castle,  or  on  the  rock, 
but  I  searched  in  vain  for  them  :  those  pointed  out  to  mp  were  early  Mo- 
hammedan. Bitlis  contains  many  picturesque  remains  of  mosques,  bntha, 
and  bridges,  and  was  once  a  place  of  considerable  size  and  importance.  It 
is  built  in  the  very  bottom  of  a  deep  valley,  and  on  the  sides  of  ravines, 
worn  by  small  tribiitiiries  of  the  Tigris.  The  best  houiics  stand  high  upon 
the  decUvities,  and  are  of  stone,  ornamented  with  large  arched  windows, 
trellis  work,  and  porticoes ;  many  of  them  being  surrounded  by  groves  of 
trees.  The  bazars  are  in  the  lowest  parts  of  the  town,  and  tow,  ill-built, 
and  dirty.  They  arc  genorally  much  crowded,  as  in  ihein  is  carried  on 
the  chief  trade  of  this  part  of  Kurdistan.  The  export  trade  is  chiefly  sup- 
plied by  the  produce  of  the  mountains ;  palls,  honey,  wax.  wool,  and  car- 
pets and  Btufls,  woven  and  dyed  in  the  teats.  The  dyes  of  Kurdistan,  and 
particularly  those  from  the  district  around  Bitlis,  Sert,  and  Jezireh,  are 
celebrated  lur  their  brilliancy.  They  are  made  from  herbs  gathered  in  the 
mountains,  and  from  indigo,  yellow  berries,  and  other  materials,  imported 
into  the  country.  The  colors  usually  worn  by  both  men  and  women  are  a 
deep  dull  red  and  a  bright  yellow,  mingled  with  black,  a  marked  taste  for 
these  tints,  to  the  exclusion  of  almost  every  other,  being  a  peculiar  charac- 
teristic of  the  Kurdish  race  from  Bayazid  to  Suleimaniyah.  The  carpets 
are  of  a  rich  soft  texture,  the  patterns  displaying  considerable  elegance 
and  taste  :  they  are  much  esteemed  in  Turkey.  There  was  a  fair  show 
of  Manchester  goods  and  coarse  English  cutlery  in  the  shops.  The  sale  of 
arms,  once  extensively  carried  on,  had  been  prohibited.  The  trade  is  chiefly 
in  the  hands  of  merchants  from  Mosul  and  Erzeruom,  who  come  to  Bitlis 
for  galls,  at  present  almost  the  only  article  of  export  from  Kurdistan  to  the 
European  tn.irketa.  This  produce  of  the  oak  was  formerly  monopilised  by 
Beder  Kliun  Bey,  and  other  powerful  Kurdish  chiefs,  hut  the  inhabitants 
are  now  permitted  to  gather  them  without  restriction,  each  village  having 
its  share  in  the  woods.  The  wool  ol'  the  mountains  is  coarse,  and  scarcely 
Ht  for  export  to  Europe  ;  and  the  "'  teftik,"  a  fine  untlerhair  of  the  goat, 
although  useful  and  valuable,  is  not  collected  in  siiflicient  quantity  for 
commerce.  There  is  a  race  of  sheep  in  Kurdistan  producing  a  long  silken 
wool,  like  that  of  Angora,  but  it  is  not  common,  and  the  fleeces  being 
much  prized  as  saddle  and  other  ornaments  by  the  natives,  are  expensive. 
There  are,  no  doubt,  many  productions  of  the  mountains,  besides  valuable 
minerals,  which  appear  to  abound,  that  would  become  lucrative  objects  of 


Chap.  II. 


TOWN  or  BITUS. 


commerce  were  tranquillity  fully  restored,  and  trade  encouraged.  The 
slaiightcr-hoiiHee,  the  resort  of  crowds  of  maiigj'  doge,  are  near  the  bazars, 
on  the  banks  of  the  stream,  and  the  elHuvia  aristng  from  them  is  most  of- 
fensive. 

Having  examined  the  town  I  visited  the  Armenian  bishop,  who  dwells 
in  a  large  convent  in  one  of  the  ravines  branching  off  from  the  main  valley. 
On  my  way  I  passed  several  hot  springs,  some  gurgling  up  in  the  very  bed 
of  the  torrent.  The  bishop  was  maudlin,  old,  and  decrepit ;  he  cried  over 
his  own  personal  woes,  and  over  those  of  his  comniuuily,  abused  the  Turks, 
and  the  American  missionaries,  whispering  confidentially  in  my  ear  as  if 
the  Kurds  were  at  his  door.  He  insisted  in  the  most  endearing  terms,  and 
occasionally  throwing  his  arms  round  my  neck,  that  I  should  driuk  a  couple 
of  glasses  of  fiery  raki,  although  it  was  still  early  morning,  pledging  me 
himself  in  each  glass.  Hu  showed  me  his  church,  an  ancient  building, 
well  hung  with  miserable  daubs  of  saints  and  miracles.  On  the  whole, 
whatever  may  have  been  their  condition  under  the  Kurdish  chiefs,  the 
Christians  of  Bitlis  at  the  time  of  my  visit  had  no  very  great  grounds  of 
complaint.  I  found  them  well  inclined  and  cxcoudiiigly  courteous,  those 
who  had  shops  in  the  bazar  rising  as  I  jiasgcd.  The  town  containi  about 
seven  hundred  Armenian  and  forty  Jacobite  families  (the  former  have  fuur 
churches),  but  no  Nestorians,  although  formerly  a  part  of  the  Christian 
population  was  of  that  sect. 

There  are  three  roads  from  Bitlis  to  Jezireh  ;  two  over  the  mountains 
through  Sert,  generally  frequented  by  caravans,  but  very  difficult  and 
precipitous  ;  a  third  more  circuitous,  and  winding  through  the  valleys  of 
the  ea;stern  branch  of  the  Tigris.  I  chose  the  last,  as  it  enabled  me  to 
visit  the  Yezidi  villages  of  the  district  of  Kherzan.  We  left  Bitlis  on  the 
20lh.  Soon  issuing  from  the  gardens  of  the  town  we  found  ourselves 
amidst  a  forest  of  oaks  of  various  descriptions.*  It  was  one  of  those  deep, 
narrow,  and  rocky  valleys  abounding  in  Kurdistan  ;  the  foaming  torrent 
dashing  through  it,  to  be  crossed  and  rc-crossed,  to  the  great  discomrorl  of 
the  laden  mules,  almost  at  every  hiuidicd  yards,  and  from  the  want  of 
bridges  generally  impassable  during  the  spring  and  after  rains.  In  autumn 
and  winter  the  declivities  arc  covered  with  the  black  tents  of  the  Kochers, 
or  wandering  Kurds,  who  move  in  summer  to  the  higher  pastures.  The 
tribes  inhabiting  the  valley  are  the  Selokeen,  the  Hamki,  and  tho  Babosi, 
by  whom  the  relatives  of  Cawal  Yusuf  were  murdered.  There  are  no 
villages  near  the  road-side.  They  stand  in  deep  ravines  branching  out 
from  the  main  valley,  either  perched  on  precipitous  and  almost  inaccessible 
.ledges  of  rock,  or  hid  in  the  recesses  of  the  Ibrest,  Several  bridges  and 
•pacious  khans,  whose  ruins  still  attcHt  the  ancient  commerce  and  iiiter- 
oourso  carried  on  through  these  mountains,  are  attributed,  like  all  other 

•  In  the  appendix  will  be  found  a  note,  with  which  I  liave  been  kindly  favortd  by 
Dr.  Lio<i.say,  upon  the  new  and  remarkable  oaks  found  in  these  mountains,  and  now 
for  the  first  time  grown  in  this  country  from  acoma  sent  home  by  me. 


32 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chaiv  II 


public  works  in  the  country,  to  Sultan  Murad  during  his  memorable  expe- 
dition njiaitist  Baphdad  (a.  v.  lf)3S), 

About  live  miles  from  Biilis  the  road  is  carried  by  a  tunnel,  about  twenty 
feet  in  length,  through  a  mass  of  calcareous  rock,  projectirrp  like  a  huge 
rib  from  the  mountain's  side.  The  mineral  stream,  which  in  the  lapse  of 
ages  has  formed  this  deposit,  is  still  at  work,  projecting  great  stalaetitcs 
from  its  sides,  and  threatening;  to  t-lose  ere  long  the  tunnel  itself  There 
ia  no  inscription  to  record  by  whom  and  ut  what  period  this  passajje  was 
cut.  It  is,  of  course,  assigned  to  Sultan  Murad,  but  is  probably  of  a  far 
earlier  period.  There  are  many  sueh  in  the  mountains  ;*  and  the  re- 
mains of  a  causeway,  evidently  of  great  antiquity,  in  many  places  cut  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  are  traceable  in  the  valley.  We  pitched  our  tenia  for 
the  night  near  a  ruined  and  deserted  khan. 

We  continued  during  the  following  day  in  the  same  ravine,  crossing  by 
ancient  bridges  the  stream  which  was  gradually  gathering  strength  as  it 
advanced  towards  llie  low  ccumtry.  Abotit  noon  wo  passed  a  large  Kurd- 
ish village  called  Goeena,  belonging  to  Sheikh  Kassim,  one  of  those  relig- 
ious fanatics  who  arc  the  curiae  of  Kurdistan.  Ho  was  notorious  for  his 
haired  of  the  Yezidis,  on  whose  districts  he  had  committed  numerous  depre- 
dations, murdering  those  who  came  within  his  reach.  His  last  expedition 
had  not  proved  successful ;  he  was  repulsed  with  the  lo»s  of  many  of  his 
ftdlowers.  We  encamped  in  the  afternoon  on  the  bank  of  the  torrent,  near 
a  cluster  of  Kurdish  tents,  concealed  from  view  by  the  brushwood  and  high 
rceda.  The  owners  were  poor  but  hospitable,  bringing  us  a  Iamb,  yahgourt, 
and  milk.  Lute  in  the  evening  a  party  of  horsemen  rode  to  cmr  encamp- 
ment. They  were  a  young  Kurdish  chief,  with  his  retainers,  carrying  ofl' 
a  girl  with  whom  he  had  fallen  in  love, — not  an  uncommon  occurrence  in 
Kurdistan.  They  dismounted,  eat  bread,  and  then  hastened  on  their  jour- 
ney to  escape  pursuit. 

Starling  next  niortiing  soon  after  dawn  we  rode  tor  two  hours  along  the 
banks  of  the  stream,  and  then,  turning  from  the  valley,  entered  a  country 
of  low  undulating  hills.  Here  wo  left  the  Bitlis  stream,  which  is  joined 
about  six  hours  beyond,  near  a  village  named  Kitchki,  by  the  river  of 
Sort,  another  great  feeder  of  the  Tigris.  This  district  abounds  in  saline 
springs  and  welLs,  whoso  waters,  led  into  pans  and  allowed  to  evaporate, 
deposit  much  salt,  which  is  collected  and  forms  a  considerable  article  of 
export  even  lo  the  neighbourhood  of  Moaid. 

We  halted  for  a  few  minutes  in  the  village  of  Omais-el-Koran,  belong- 
ing to  one  of  the  innumerabie  saints  of  the  Kurdish  mountains.  The 
Sheikh  himself  was  on  his  terrace  superintending  the  repair  of  his  house, 
gmluitously  undertaken  by  the  neighbouring  villagers,  who  camo  eagerly 
to  engage  in  a  good  and  pious  work.  Whilst  the  chief  enjoys  the  full  ad- 
rantages  of  a  holy  character  the  place  itself  ia  a  Ziorah,  or  place  of  pil- 

•  Sec  Col.  Shell's  Memoir  in  the  Journal  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  voL 
viii.  p  81 


Chap,  ll.] 


A  TEZIDI  VILLAGE. 


3d 


gritnago,  and  a  Tint  to  it  is  considered  by  the  ignorant  Kurds  almost  as 
meritorious  as  a  journey  to  Mecca ;  such  pilgrimages  being  usually  ac< 
companied  by  au  ofleriug  in  money,  or  in  kiuJ,  are  not  discourageJ  by  the 
Sheikh. 

Leaving  a  small  plain,  we  ascended  a  low  range  of  hills  by  a  precipi- 
tous pathway,  and  baited  on  the  summit  at  a  Kurdish  village  named  Kho- 
khi.  It  Mas  tilled  with  Bashi-Bozuks,  or  irregular  troops,  collecting  the 
revenue,  and  there  was  such  a  general  confusion,  quarrelliitg  of  men  and 
screaming  of  women,  that  wc  could  scarcely  get  bread  lo  oat.  Yet  the 
officer  assured  me  that  the  whole  sum  to  be  raised  amounted  to  no  more 
than  seventy  piastres  (about  thirteen  shillings)  The  poverty  of  the  vil- 
lage must  indeed  have  been  extreme,  or  the  bad  will  of  the  inhabitants 
outrageous. 

It  was  evening  before  we  descended  into  the  plain  countr}'  of  the  diit- 
tiict  of  Kherzan.  The  Yezidi  village  of  Hamki  had  been  visible  for  some 
lime  from  the  heights,  and  we  turned  towards  it.  As  the  sun  was  fast 
sinking,  the  peasants  were  leaving  the  llireshing-floor,  and  (fathering  to- 
gether their  implements  of  husbandry.  They  saw  the  large  company  of 
horsemen  drawing  nigh,  and  took  us  for  irregular  troops, — the  terror  of  an 
Eastern  village.  Cawal  Yusuf,  concealing  all  but  his  eyes  with  the  Arab 
kcfieh,  which  he  then  wore,  rode  into  the  midst  of  them,  and  demanded 
in  a  peremptory  voice  provisions  and  quartera  for  the  night.  The  ]>oor 
creatures  huddled  together,  unwilling  to  grant,  yet  fearing  to  refuse.  The 
Cawal  having  enjoyed  their  alarm  for  a  moment,  threw  his  kerchief  from 
his  face,  exclaiming,  "  0  evil  ones  !  will  you  refuse  bread  to  your  priest, 
and  turn  him  hungry  from  your  door  ?"  There  was  surely  then  no  unwil- 
lingness to  receive  us.  Casting  aside  their  shovels  and  forks,  the  men 
threw  themselves  upon  the  (Jawal,  each  struggling  to  kiss  his  hand.  A 
boy  ran  to  the  village  to  spread  the  news,  and  from  it  soon  issued  women, 
children,  and  old  men,  to  welcome  us.  A  few  words  sufficed  to  explain 
from  whence  we  came,  and  what  we  required.  Every  one  was  our  serv- 
ant. Horses  were  unloadeJ,  tents  pitehfd,  luiiibs  brought,  before  we  had 
time  to  look  around.  There  was  a  general  rejoicing,  aeid  the  poor  Yezi- 
dis  seemed  scarcely  able  to  satiate  themselves  with  looking  on  their  priest ; 
for  a  report  had  gone  abroad,  and  had  been  industriously  eiicoura^a'd  by 
the  Mussulmans,  who  had  heard  of  the  departure  of  the  deputation  for 
Coustautioople,  that  Yusuf  and  his  companions  had  been  put  to  death  by 
the  Sultan,  and  that  not  only  tlic  petition  of  the  Yezidis  had  been  rejected, 
but  that  fresh  torments  were  in  store  for  them.  For  eight  mouths  ihey 
had  received  no  news  of  the  Cawal,  and  this  long  silence  had  conlirmed 
their  fears  ;  but  "  he  was  dead  and  is  alivo  again,  he  was  lost  and  is 
found  ;"  and  they  made  merry  with  all  that  the  village  could  afford. 

Yusuf  was  soon  seated  in  the  midst  of  a  circle  of  the  elders.  Ho  told 
his  whole  history,  with  stich  details  and  illustrations  as  an  Eastern  alone 
caa  introduce,  to  bring  eveiy  fact  vividly  before  his  listeners.     Nothing 

C 


:m 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


(Chap.  II- 


vva«  omiitetl :  his  arrival  at  Constantinople,  hi»  reception  by  me,  his  inlio- 
iluctioii  to  the  ambassador,  his  interview  with  the  great  ministers  of  state, 
the  firman  of  future  protection  for  the  Yezidis,  prospects  of  peace  and  hap- 
piness for  the  tribe,  our  departure  from  the  capita],  the  nature  of  steam- 
boats, the  tossing  of  the  M'aves,  the  pains  of  8ca-sicktn."68,  and  our  jonrney 
10  Kherzan.  Not  the  smallest  partioular  was  forgotten ;  every  person  and 
event  were  described  with  equal  minuteness;  almost  the  very  number  of 
pipes  he  had  smoked  and  cofl'ces  lie  had  drunk  was  given.  He  was  con- 
limially  intermptcil  by  exclamations  of  gfratitude  and  wonder;  and,  when 
he  had  fuiishid,  it  was  my  lurii  to  be  the  object  of  unbounded  welcomes 
and  salutations. 

As  the  Cawal  sat  on  the  frounJ,  with  his  noblo  features  and  flowing 
robes,  surrounded  by  the  elders  of  the  village,  eager  listeners  to  every  word 
which  dropjjcd  from  their  priest,  and  looking  towards  him  with  looks  of 
profound  veneration,  the  picture  brought  vividly  to  niy  mind  many  E<:enes 
described  in  the  sacred  volumes.  Let  the  painter  who  would  throw  off  the 
conventitMialities  of  the  age,  who  would  feel  as  well  as  jiortray  the  inci- 
dents of  Holy  Writ,  wander  in  the  East,  and  mix,  not  as  the  ordinary  trav- 
eller, but  as  a  student  of  men  and  of  nature,  with  its  people.  He  will 
daily  meet  with  customs  which  he  will  otherwise  be  at  a  loss  to  under- 
stand, and  be  brought  face  to  face  with  those  who  have  retained  with  lit- 
tle change  the  manners,  lan<;uage,  and  dress  of  a  patriarchal  race. 


Ymkll  Women 


Kurdish  Women  at  ■  Spring. 

CHAPTER  III 

■ICETTlOir  BV  THS  TKZIPIS. TILLAOE  OF  OPirLDKR. TRIUMPHAL  MUCH  TO  REPWAV^ 

IKDW«N.  —  kCMBMUN  CHPBCH. MIRZA    AOUA. THIS  MBLEK  TAOII8,  OR  BBAZEW  BIBD. — 

TILI.EH.  —  VALI.rv  OF  THB  TIGRIS. — DA*  KKLIKVa. JOUBNKV  TO  IIEBBBOUN. TO  SEHIL. 

— ABDI  AOHA. — JOlfRNBV  TO  MOBlll.. THK  YKillW  CHIEFS. — ABBIVAl.  AT  MOSUL. — XEN- 

OPHON's  MABCH   FROM   TUB  ZX»  TO  THE   BLACK   SKA. 

I  Was  awoke  on  the  following  morning  by  the  tread  of  horses  and  the 
noise  of  many  voices.  The  good  people  ofliainki  having  sent  mcssciigen 
in  the  night  to  the  surrounding  villages  to  spread  the  news  of  our  arrival,  a 
luge  body  of  YeKidisoii  horse  and  on  fmit  had  already  assembled,  although 
It  was  not  yet  dawn,  to  greet  us  and  to  escort  us  on  our  journey.  They 
were  dressed  in  their  gayest  garments,  and  had  adorned  their  turbans  with 
flowen  and  green  leaves.  Their  chief  was  Akko,  a  warrior  well  known  in 
the  Tezidi  wars,  still  active  and  daring,  although  his  beard  had  long  turned 
grey.  The  head  uf  the  village  olUuzelibr,  with  the  principal  inhabitants, 
had  come  to  invite  me  to  cat  bread  in  his  house,  and  we  followud  him 
A»  wc  rode  along  we  were  joined  by  parties  of  horsemen  and  footmen,  each 
man  kissing  my  hand  as  he  arrived,  (he  horsemen  alighting  for  that  pur- 
pose. Before  we  reached  (luzcldcr  the  pr«3cession  had  swollen  to  many 
hundreds.  The  men  had  assembled  at  some  distanee  from  the  village,  the 
women  and  children,  dressed  in  their  holiday  attire,  and  carrj'ing  boughs 
of  trees,  congregated  on  the  housetops       As  I  approached   sheep    were 


36 


NINKVCH  AJID  BASyLON. 


[Chap-  III- 


brought  into  the  road  aud  slain  before  my  horse's  feet,  and  as  we  entered 
the  yard  of  Akko's  house,  the  women  and  men  joined  in  the  loud  »tul  pierc- 
ing "lahlel."  The  chief's  family  were  assembled  at  hia  door,  and  his  wifo 
uud  niollier  insisted  upon  helping  me  lo  dismount.  Wo  entered  a  opacioui 
room  complclcly  open  to  the  air  on  one  side,  and  dtstinguisheJ  by  that  ex- 
treme neatness  and  eleanliness  peculiar  to  the  Yezidis.  Many-colored  car- 
pets were  spread  over  the  floor,  and  the  principal  elders  took  their  seats 
with  me. 

Soon  afVcr  our  arrival  several  Fakirs,*  in  their  dark  csoarsa  dressos  and 
red  and  black  turbana,  came  to  ws  fruiii  the  neighbouring  villages.  One 
of  them  wore  round  his  neck  a  uhain,  as  a  sign  that  he  had  renounced  the 
vanities  of  the  world,  aud  had  devoted  himself  to  the  service  of  God  and 
his  fellow-crealnres.  Other  chiefs  and  horgcmcu  also  Hocked  in,  and  were 
invited  to  join  in  the  feast,  which  was  not,  however,  served  up  until  Cawal 
YiiBuf  had  related  his  whole  history  once  more,  without  omitting  a  single 
detail.  After  we  had  ealen  of  stuHed  lambs,  pillaws,  and  savory  dishes 
and  most  luscious  grapes,  the  produce  of  the  district,  our  entertainer  placed 
a  present  of  home-made  carjjets  at  my  feet,  and  we  rose  lo  dopart.  The 
horsemen,  the  Fakirs,  and  the  pi"incipal  inhabitants  of  (iuzelder  on  foot 
accompanied  me.  At  a  short  distance  from  the  village  we  were  met  by 
another  large  body  of  Yezidis,  and  by  many  Jacobites,  headed  by  one  Namo, 
who,  by  the  variety  of  his  arms,  the  richness  of  his  dresss,  a  figured  Indian 
silk  robe,  with  a  cloak  of  precious  fur,  and  his  tastefully  decorated  Arab 
mare,  might  rather  have  been  taken  fur  a  Kurdish  bey  than  the  head  of  a 
Chrisliau  village.  A  bishop  and  several  prieats  were  with  him.  Two 
hours'  ride,  with  this  great  company,  the  horsemen  galloping  lo  and  fro, 
the  footmen  discharging  their  Jirearms,  brouglil  ns  to  the  large  village  of 
■  Koshana.  The  whole  of  the  ]x.>pulation,  mostly  dressed  in  pure  white,  and 
wearing  leaves  and  flowers  in  their  turbans,  had  turned  out  to  meet  us; 
women  stood  on  the  road-side  with  jars  of  fresh  water  aud  bowls  of  sour 
milk,  whilst  others  with  the  children  wore  asseiiibfed  on  the  housetops 
making  the  tnhlcL  Resisting  an  invitation  to  alight  and  eat  bread,  and 
havitig  merely  stopped  to  exchange  salutations  with  those  assembled,  I 
continued  on  the  road  to  Rcdwan,  our  party  swollen  by  a  fresh  accession 
of  followers  from  the  village.  Ere  long  we  wore  met  by  three  Cawals  on 
their  periodical  visitation  to  the  district.  They  were  nearly  related  to 
Cawal  Yusiif,  and  old  friends  nf  my  own,  With  them,  amongst  others, 
were  several  young  M(i!>sulmiing.  who  appeared  to  be  on  the  best  terms  with 
their  Yezidi  I'riends,  but  had  probably  ridden  out  with  them  to  show  their 
gay  dresses  and  admirable  horsemanship.  As  we  passed  through  the  de- 
fde  leading  into  the  plain  of  Red  wan,  we  had  the  appearance  of  a  triumph- 
al procession,  but  as  we  approached  the  small  town  a  still  more  cnthusiaa- 
tic  reception  awaited  us.  First  came  a  large  body  of  horsemen,  collected 
from  the  place  itself,  and  the  neighbouring  villages.  They  were  followed 
•  The  lowest  order  of  Jhe  Yezidi  priesthood. 


CoAP.  m.] 


TOWN  or  SBDWAM. 


87 


by  YczeJis  on  foot,  carrying  flowers  and  brancheB  of  trees,  and  preceded  by 
musicians  playing  on  the  liibbul  and  zemai.*^  Next  were  the  Arrnenian 
cominuuity  headed  by  their  clerpy,  and  then  the  Jacobite  and  other  Chris- 
tian sects,  also  with  their  respective  priests;  the  women  and  children  lined 
the  entrance  to  the  place  and  thronged  the  housetops.  I  alighted  amidHl 
the  din  of  music  and  the  "tabid"  at  the  house  of  Nazi,  the  chief  of  the 
whole  Yczidi  district,  two  sheep  being  slain  before  nic  as  I  took  my  feet 
from  the  stirrups. 

Nazi's  house  was  soon  fille<l  witli  the  chiefs,  the  principal  visitors,  and 
the  inhabitants  of  llcdwan.  Again  had  Cawal  Yusiif  to  describe  all  that 
had  occurred  at  Constantinople,  and  to  conHrm  the  good  tidings  of  an  im- 
perial firman  giving  the  Yezidis  equal  rights  with  the  Mussulmans,  a  com- 
plete toleration  of  their  religion,  and  relief  from  the  much  dreaded  laws  of 
the  conscription.  At  length  breakfast  was  brought  and  devoured.  It  was 
then  agreed  that  Nazi's  house  was  likely  to  be  too  crowded  during  the  day 
to  permit  me  to  enjoy  comfort  or  quiet,  and  with  a  due  regard  to  the  da- 
ties  of  hospitality,  it  was  suggested  that  I  should  take  up  my  fiuarlers  in 
the  Armenian  church,  t'iuing  in  the  evening  with  the  chicis  to  witness  the 
festivities. 

The  L-hange  was  indeed  grateful  to  me,  and  I  found  at  length  a  little 
repose  and  leisure  to  reflect  ujiou  the  gratifying  scene  to  which  I  had  that 
day  been  witness.  1  have,  perhaps,  been  too  minute  in  the  account  of  my 
reception  at  Rcdwan.bnt  I  record  with  pleasure  this  instance  of  a  siiicere 
and  spontaneous  display  of  gratitude  on  the  piirt  of  a  much  maligned  and 
oppressed  race.  To  those,  unfortunately  too  many,  who  believe  that  East- 
erns can  only  be  managed  by  violence  and  swayed  by  fear,  let  this  record 
be  a  proof  that  there  are  higti  and  generous  feelings  which  may  not  only 
be  relied  and  acted  npn  without  interfering  with  their  authority,  or  com- 
promising their  dignity,  but  with  every  hope  of  laying  the  foundation  of 
real  attachment  and  mutual  esteem. 

The  church  stands  on  the  slope  of  a  mound,  on  the  summit  of  which  are 
the  rains  of  a  castle  belonging  to  the  former  chiefs  of  Redwan.  It  was 
built  expressly  for  the  Christians  of  the  Anneuian  sect  by  Mirza  Agha,  the 
last  semi-independcut  Yczidi  chief,  a  pleasing  example  of  toleration  and 
liberality  well  worthy  of  imitation  by  more  civilised  men.  The  building 
is  peculiar  and  jiritnitive  in  its  construction  ;  one  side  of  the  courtyard  is 
occupied  by  stables  for  the  cattle  of  the  priests ;  above  them  is  a  low  room 
with  a  dead  wall  on  three  sides  and  a  row  of  arches  on  the  fourth.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  court  is  an  iwan,  or  large  vaulted  chamber,  com- 
pletely open  on  one  side  to  the  air ;  in  its  centre,  supported  nn  four  columns, 
is  a  gaudily  painted  box  containing  a  picture  of  the  Virgin  ;  a  few  miser- 
able daubs  of  saints  are  pasted  on  the  walls.  This  is  the  church,  when 
in  summer  the  heat  prevents  the  use  of  a  closed  room.  It  can  only  be  di- 
vided from  the  yard  by  a  curtain  of  figured  cotton  print,  drawn  across  when 
•  A  largp  drum  licatrn  at  Uith  ends,  an<l  a  kind  of  oboe  or  pipe. 


88 


NINEVKH  AND  BABiaON. 


[Chap.  IFI. 


oalMliflTen  enter  the  building ;  a  low  doorway  to  the  left  loailB  into  a  dark 
inner  ehurch,  in  wtiich  pictures  of  the  Virgin  and  saints  can  faintly  be  dis- 
tinguished by  the  light  of  a  few  propitiatory  lamps  struggling  with  the 
gloom.  Service  was  performed  in  the  open  iwan  during  the  afternoon, 
the  congregation  kneeling  uncovered  in  the  yard. 

The  priesta  of  the  dillt;rent  communities  called  upon  mo  as  soon  as  I 
was  ready  to  receive  their  visits.  The  most  intelligent  amongst  them  was 
a  Roman  Catholic  Chalda;an.  a  good-hurnonred,  tolerant  i'ellow,  who  with 
a  very  small  congregation  of  his  own  did  not  boar  any  ill  will  to  his  neigh- 
bours. With  the  principal  Yezedi  i-hicfs,  too,  1  had  a  long  and  ititercaling 
conversation  on  the  state  of  their  people  and  on  their  prospects.  Nazi  is 
descended  from  the  ancient  hereditary  lords  of  Red  wan.  The  last  of  them 
was  Mirza  Agha,  his  uncle,  whoso  history  and  end  were  those  of  many  of 
the  former  independent  chiefiaitis  of  Turkey,  When  the  celebrated  Reshid 
I'asha  had  subdued  northern  Kiirdii^tan  and  was  marching  to  the  south, 
Mirza  Agha,  dreading  the  approach  of  the  array,  subniitted  to  the  Sultan, 
and  agreed  to  receive  n  Turkish  governor  in  his  castle.  The  officer  chosen 
lor  the  post  was  one  Emin  Agha.  He  had  not  been  long  in  Redwan  be- 
fore he  carried  away  by  force  the  beautiful  wife  of  the  Yeaidi  chief.  Miraa 
Agha,  instead  of  appealing  to  arms,  went  to  Reshid  Pasha,  and  feigning 
that  the  woman  was  a  slave  and  not  his  wife,  protested  that  Emin  Agha 
might  come  back  without  fear  to  his  government.  The  Turk  did  return, 
but  he  and  his  followers  were  no  sooner  in  the  power  of  the  chief  than  they 
Jell  victims  lo  his  revenge.  Reshid  Pasha  then  marched  against  Redwan, 
but  being  called  away  against  the  rebel  Bey  of  RBhwandn?:,  was  unable 
(o  subdue  the  district.  After  the  successful  termination  of  the  expedition 
agnitist  the  Kurdish  bey,  Mirza  Agha  again  made  an  unqualified  submission, 
was  received  into  favour,  and  appointetl  governor  over  his  own  people.  On 
the  death  of  Reshiil  Pasha  lit  was  invited  to  the  quarters  of  the  new  Turk- 
tall  rommunder,  and  treacherously  murdered  during  his  visit.  His  former 
Wife,  who,  nccording  to  the  laws  of  the  sect,  could  not  bo  received  again 
Into  tho  rommunity,  had  been  placed  in  the  harem  of  the  murderer ;  she 
died  on  hi'iirtng  the  fate  of  her  Yozidi  husband.  The  body  of  Mirza  Agha 
w>i  brxiight  by  sornc  faithful  attendants  to  his  native  place,  and  lies  under 
M  iifnt  tiirliidi  ttn  the  banks  of  the  stream  to  the  west  of  the  town.  Nazi, 
Ins  ni'|ilutw.  was  his  succesjor,  but  long  oppression  has  reduced  him  to 
|Hiviirty  ,  thfl  old  nosllo  has  been  deserted,  and  is  fast  falling  to  ruin,  whilst 
Ms  nwMiir  (lenupieN  u  mud  hovel  like  the  meanest  of  his  followers. 

Kwiwan  is  enlli'd  ii  town,  becanseit  has  a  baxar,  and  is  the  chief  place 
rt|'«  oitnsidarahln  dimriet.  It  may  contain  about  eight  hundred  rudely-built 
hills,  Aiid  stnridt  on  a  large  stream,  which  joins  the  Diarbekir  branch  of 
\Uy  T<uri«,  ttbiut  five  or  six  miles  below.  The  inhabitants  are  Yezedis, 
mill  lliti  ov<<i>p(i<in  t>f  about  one  hundred  Armenian,  and  forty  or  fifty  Jao- 
iibUu  uiid  Clmhlumn  fmnilies,  A  Turkish  Mndir.  or  petty  governor,  gen- 
omlly  r«iidM  lu  the  place,  but  was  absent  at  tho  time  of  my  visit. 


;hap. 


[II] 


IIB.BK  TAOl'S. 


89 


The  eounds  of  rejoicing  had  been  heard  during  the  whole  afternoon  ; 
mki  had  circulated  freely,  and  there  were  few  houses  which  had  uot  slain 
a  lamb  to  celebrate  the  day.  After  we  had  dined,  the  dances  commenced 
in  the  courtyard  of  Nazi's  house,  and  were  kept  up  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  night,  the  moon  shedding  its  pale  hght  on  the  white  robes  of  the 
Yezidi  dancers.  But  as  the  sun  was  setting  we  were  visited  by  one  uf 
thoso  sudden  storms  or  whirlwinds  which  frequently  riot  over  the  plains 

[lof  Mesopotamia  and  through  the  valleys  of  Assyria.  Although  it  lasted 
scarcely  more  than  half  an  hour,  it  tore  down  in  its  fury  t(>nt«  and  more 
■olid  dweUingg,  and  swept  from  the  housetops  the  beds  and  carpels  already 
spread  for  the  night's  repose.  After  its  passage,  the  air  seemed  even  more 
calm  than  it  had  been  before,  and  those  who  had  been  driven  to  take 
shelter  from  its  violence  within  the  walls  resumed  their  occupations  and 
their  dances. 

We  slept  in  the  long  room  o|)<-ning  on  the  courtyard,  and  wcrs  awoke 
long  before  daybreak  by  the  jingling  of  small  bells  and  the  mumbling  of 

,  priests.  It  was  Sunday,  and  the  Armenians  commence  their  church  services 
betimes.  I  gazed  half  dozing,  and  without  rising  frotn  my  bed,  iii>on  the 
ceremonies,  the  bowing,  raising  of  crosses,  and  shaking  of  bells,  which  con- 
tinued for  above  three  hours,  until  priests  and  congregation  must  have  been 
well  nigh  exhausted.  The  people,  as  during  the  previous  afternoon's  serv- 
ice, stood  and  knelt  uncovered  in  the  courtyard. 

The  Cawals,  who  arc  seut  yearly  by  Hussein  Bey  and  Sheikh  Nasr  to 
instruct  the  Yezidis  in  their  faith,  and  to  collect  the  contributions  forming 
the  revenues  of  the  great  chief,  and  of  the  tomb  of  Sheikh  Adi,  were  now 
in  Picdwan.  The  same  Cawals  do  not  take  the  saTue  rounds  every  year. 
The  Yezidis  are  parcelled  out  into  four  divisions  for  the  purpose  of  these 
annual  visitations,  those  of  the  iSinjar,  of  Kherzan,  oi  the  pashalic  of  Aleppo. 
and  of  the  villages  in  northern  Armenia,  and  within  the  Russian  frontiers. 
The  Yezidis  of  the  Mosul  districts  have  the  Cawals  always  amongst  them. 
I  was  aware  that  on  the  oi-casion  of  these  journeys  the  priests  carry  with 
them  the  celebrated  Melek  Taous,  or  brazen  peacock,  as  a  warrant  for  their 
mission.  A  favourable  opportunity  now  oBered  itself  to  see  tliis  mysterinus 
tigure,  and  I  asked  Cawal  Yusuf  to  gratify  my  curiosity.  Ho  at  once  ac- 
ceded to  my  retpiest,  and  the  Cawals  and  elders  ofl'ering  no  objection,  I 
was  conducted  early  in  the  morning  into  a  dark  inner  room  In  Nazi'i> 
It  was  some  time  before  my  eyes  had  become  sufficiently  accus- 

^tomed  to  the  dim  light  to  distinguish  an  object,  from  which  a  large  red 
coverlet  had  been  raised  on  my  entry.  The  Cawals  drew  near  with  ever}- 
sign  of  respect,  bowing  and  kissing  the  corner  of  the  cloth  on  which  it  was 
placed.     A  stand  of  bright  copper  or  brass,  in  shape  like  the  candlesticks 

generally  used  in  Mosul  and  Baghdad,  was  surmnnnted  by  the  rude  image 

.of  a  bird  in  the  same  metal,  and  more  like  an  Indian  or  Mexican  idol  than 

cock  or  peacock.     Its  peculiar  workmanship  indicated  some  antiquity. 

but  I  could  see  no  traces  ol  jnscriptioa  upon  it.     Before  it  stood  a  copper 


_J 


49 


BH  AND  BABTLOn 


[Chai-.  Hi"; 


:^^ 


bowl  to  rewive  eontributious,  and  a,  bag  to  contain  the  bird  and  stand, 
which  tiikea  to  pief.us  when  carried  from  place  to 
place.  There  are  four  such  images,  one  foi  each  dis- 
trift  visited  by  the  Cawals.  The  Yezidis  declare 
that,  notwithBtanding  the  frequent  wars  and  massa- 
cres to  which  the  sect  has  been  exposed,  and  the  plun- 
der and  murder  of  the  priejits  during  their  journeys, 
no  Melek  Taou*  has  ever  fallen  into  the  hands  of 
the  Mupsulmans,  Cawal  Yusuf,  once  crossing  the 
de»ort  on  a  mission  to  the  >>injar,  and  seeing  a  body 
nf  Ik-duuin  horsemen  in  the  distance,  buried  the  Me- 
lek Tamis.  Having  been  robbed  and  then  left  by 
the  Arabs,  he  dug  it  up  and  carried  it  in  safety  to  its 
degtination.  I\Ir.  Hormuzd  Raesam  was  aluno  per- 
mitted to  visit  the  image  with  me.  As  I  have  else- 
where observed,*  it  is  not  looked  upon  as  an  idol, 
but  as  a  symbol  or  banner,  as  Sheikh  Nasr  tertoed 
it,  of  the  house  of  Husseio  Bey. 

Having  breakfasted  at  Nazi's  house  wc  left  Red- 
ThrMriekT.ou..  or  Topper  "*'«"■  '"Howfid  by  a  large  Company  of  Yezidis,  whom 
umi  oruie  Vcudi*.  J  j)^^  great  dilliculty  in  persuading  to  turn  back 
;\boiit  three  or  four  miles  from  the  town.  My  party  was  increased  by  a 
very  handsome  black  and  tan  grey-limmd  with  long  silky  iiair.  a  present 
from  old  Akko,  the  Yezidi  chief,  who  declared  that  he  loved  him  as  hi* 
child.  The  aflcction  was  amply  returned.  No  delicacies  or  caresses 
would  induce  Touar,  f(»r  such  was  the  dog's  name,  to  leave  his  master. 
He  laid  himself  down  and  allowed  one  of  the  servants  to  drag  him  by  a  rope 
over  the  rough  grouml,  philosophically  giving  tongue  to  his  complaints  in  a 
low  bowl.  This  grcyhouiul,  a  fine  specimen  of  a  nublo  breed,  much  prized 
by  the  Kurds  and  Persians,  became,  from  his  highly  original  character  and 
<"omplete  independence,  a  great  favourite  with  us.  He  s<wn  i'orgot  his  old 
masters,  and  formed  an  equal  attachment  for  his  new.  Another  dog,  a 
jibepherd  cur,  had  accompanied  our  caravan  the  whole  way  from  Trebizoad, 
lie  joined  us  without  invitation,  and  probably  finding  the  living  to  his  taste, 
and  the  exercise  conducive  to  health,  remained  with  us,  acknowledging 
the  hospitality  shown  him  by  keeping  watch  over  the  liorses  by  night. 

Cawal  Yusuf,  and  the  Yezidi  chiefs,  had  sent  messengers  even  to  Hus- 
Rcin  Bey  to  apprise  him  of  our  coming.  As  they  travelled  along  they  scat- 
tered the  news  through  the  country,  and  I  was  receix-ed  outside  every  vil- 
lage by  its  inhabitants.  At  Kuuduk,  two  hours  from  Redwan,  we  found  a 
ttecond  breakfast  prepared  for  us,  and  were  obliged  to  alight.  Below  this 
place  the  Redwan  stream  joins  the  Diarbckir  branch  of  the  Tigris,  the  two 
forming  a  broad  river.  Near  arc  the  remains  of  Husn  Kaifa,  and  of  other 
a<]cieut  cities,  which  I  was  unable  to  visit. 

*  Nineveh  and  its  Kemaias,  vol.  i  p  S98. 


Chap.  Hit* 


XSNOPBON'S  RBTRKAT. 


We  had  scarcely  left  Kunduk  when  we  were  met  by  a  parly  of  Chri«- 
tiau8,  with  the  Kiayah  of  the  village  of  Aoudi  at  their  head.  1  was  again 
obligvd  to  stop,  eat  bread,  and  receive  an  oflcring  of  homo-made  carpets, 
of  which  we  bad  now  well  nigh  received  a  mule-load  as  presents.  The 
inhabitants  of  the  district  were  suli'cring  much  from  oppression  and  illegal 
taxation. 

The  Kiayab,  with  some  horsemen,  accompanied  us  to  Tilleh,  where  the 
united  waters  of  Bitlis,  Scrt,  and  the  uppur  districts  of  Boht&u,  join  the 
western  branch  of  the  Tigris,  The  two  streams  arc  about  equal  in  size, 
and  at  this  time  of  the  year  both  fordable  ia  certain  places.  We  crossed 
the  lower,  or  eastern,  which  we  found  wide  and  exceedingly  rapid,  the 
water,  however,  not  reaching  above  the  saddle-girths.  The  villagers  rais- 
ed the  luggage,  and  supported  the  horses  against  the  current,  which  rush- 
ing over  loose  and  slippery  stones,  aflbrdiiig  an  uncertain  footing,  threat- 
ened to  sweep  the  animals  down  the  stream.  Onr  travelling  companion, 
the  dog  from  Trcbizond,  having  mado  several  vain  attempts  to  brave  the 
rapids,  quietly  retired,  thinking  our  company  not  worth  any  further  risk. 
Touar,  more  fortunate,  was  carried  over  in  the  arras  of  a  servant. 

The  spot  at  which  we  crossed  was  one  of  peculiar  interest.  It  was  here 
that  the  Ten  Thousand  in  their  memorable  retreat  forded  this  rivor,  called, 
by  Xenophon,  the  Centritis.  The  Greeks  having  fought  their  way  over 
the  lolly  mountains  of  the  Uarduchians,  found  their  further  progress  toward 
Armenia  arrested  by  a  rapid  stream.  The  ford  was  deep,  and  its  passage 
disputed  by  a  formidable  force  of  Armenians,  Mygdouians,  and  Chaldwans, 
drawn  up  on  an  eminence  300  or  400  feet  from  the  river.  In  this  strait 
Xenophon  dreamt  that  he  ■was  in  chains,  and  that  suddenly  his  fetters 
burst  asunder  of  their  own  accord.  His  dream  was  fulfilled  when  two 
youths  casually  found  a  more  practicable  ford,  by  which  the  army,  after  a 
ekilliil  stratagem  on  the  part  of  their  commander,  safely  reached  the  oppo- 
site bank.* 

Tho  village  of  Tilluh  belongs  to  Hassan  Agha,  a  Kurdish  chief,  who 
lives  in  a  small  mud  furt.  Ho  maintained,  during  the  time  of  Bcder  Khan 
Bey,  a  sort  of  independence,  sorely  oppressing  Christians  and  Yezidis.  Un-' 
fortunately  tho  Turks,  with  their  usual  want  of  foresight  and  juatict',  had 
enabled  him  to  continue  in  his  evil  ways  by  selling  him  the  revenues  and 
tithes  of  the  district,  and  naming  him  its  governor.  Ilu  came  out  and  in- 
vited mo  into  his  castle,  pressing  inc  to  pass  the  night  with  him,  and  re- 
g&hiig  us  with  pi|}e8  and  cofll-e.  It  was  near  Tilleh  that  tho  Sultan's 
troops,  assisted  by  the  Yezidis,  completely  defeated  Khan  Malmoud,  who 
was  marching  with  tho  tribes  of  Wan  and  Hakkiari  to  tlio  help  of  Beder 
Khan  Bey. 

The  sun  had  set  before  our  baggagu  had  been  crossed,  and  we  sought, 
by  the  light  of  the  moon,  the  diUli'ult  track  along  the  Tigris,  whore  tho 
river  forces  it*  way  to  the  low  country  of  Assyria,  through  a  long,  narrow, 
*  Anab  book  iv.  c.  3. 


42 


SITZB  AND 


(Chap.  III. 


and  deep  gorge.  Huge  rocks  rose  perpcmlicHlarly  on  either  side,  broken 
iato  many  taiitoalic  shapes,  and  throwing  their  dark  shadows  over  the  wa- 
ter. In  some  places  they  scarcely  left  room  for  the  river  to  pursue  its 
course ;  and  then  a  footpath,  hardly  wide  enough  to  admit  the  loaded 
mules,  was  carried  aloiig^  a  mere  ledge  overhanging  the  gurgling  stream. 
The  gradual  deepening  of  this  outlet  during  countless  centuries  is  strikingly 
shown  by  the  ledges  which  jiitt  out  like  a  successiou  of  cornices  from  the 
sides  of  the  clifl'a.  The  last  ledge  left  by  the  retiring  waters  formed  our 
pathway.  The  geological  history  of  the  Tigris,  and,  couBcquently,  of  the 
low  country,  at  its  entry  into  the  plain,  is  strikingly  illustrated  by  this 
rooky  ravine.  In  winter  this  drainer  of  the  springs  and  snows  of  the  high- 
lands of  Annenia  and  Kurdistan  is  swollen  into  a  most  impetuous  torrent, 
whose  level  is  often  full  thirty  feet  above  the  summer  average  of  the  river. 
We  found  no  village  until  we  reached  Chellek.  The  place  had  been 
deserted  by  its  inhabitants  for  the  Yilaks,  or  mountain  pastures.  Ou  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  (in  the  district  of  Asheeti)  danced  the  lights  of  a 
■eoond  village,  also  called  ChcUek,  but  distinguished  fr<jm  the  one  on  the 
eastern  bank  by  the  addition  of  "  Ali  Rummo,''  the  name  of  a  petty  Kurd- 
ish chief,  who  owns  a  mud  fort  there, 

After  Bomo  search  wo  found  a  solitary  Kurd,  who  had  been  left,  to  watch 
the  small  patches  of  cultivation  belonging  to  the  villagers.  Taking  us  for 
Turkish  soldiers,  he  had  hidden  himself  on  our  arrival.  He  ollered  to  walk 
to  the  teat«,  and  returned  after  midnight  with  provisions  for  ourselves  and 
barley  for  our  horses. 

For  three  hours  during  the  following  morning  we  followed  the  bold  and 
majestic  ravine  of  the  Tigris,  scenes  rivalling  each  other  in  grandeur  and 
beauty  opening  at  every  turn.  Leaving  the  river,  where  it  makes  a  sudden 
bend  to  the  northward,  we  commenced  a  atcep  ascent,  and  in  an  hour  and 
a  half  reached  the  Christian  village  of  Khouara.  We  rested  during  the 
heat  of  the  day  under  the  grateful  shade  of  a  grove  of  trees,  and  in  the 
afternoon  continued  our  journey,  ascending  again  as  soon  ns  wo  had  left  the 
village,  towards  the  orest  of  a.  mountain,  from  whence,  according  to  Cawal 
Yusuf,  we  were  to  behold  all  the  world  ;  and  certainly,  when  we  reached 
the  summit,  there  was  as  much  of  the  world  before  us  as  could  well  be 
taken  in  at  one  ken.  We  stood  on  the  brink  of  the  great  platform  of  Cen- 
tral Asia.  Beneath  us  were  the  vast  plains  of  Mesopotamia,  lost  in  the 
hazy  distance,  the  undulating  land  between  thorn  and  the  Taurus  confound- 
ed, from  so  great  a  height,  with  the  plains  themselves  ;  the  hills  oi'the  Sin- 
jar  and  of  Zakko,  like  ridges  on  an  embossc^I  map ;  the  Tigris  and  the 
Khabour,  winding  through  the  low  country  to  their  place  of  Junction  at 
Derebouu  ;  to  the  right,  facing  the  setting  sun,  and  catching  its  last  rays, 
the  high  cone  of  Mardin  ;  behind,  a  confused  mass  of  peaks,  some  snow- 
capped, all  rugged  and  broken,  of  the  lofty  mountains  of  Bohtan  and  Mal- 
Btaiyah  ;  between  them  and  the  northern  range  of  Taurus,  the  deep  ravine 
of  the  river  and  the  valley  of  Rcdwan.     I  watched  the  shawdows  aj«  they 


Chap.  HI 


nTRDISB  ROSPITALlTr. 


49 


lengthened  over  the  plain,  melting  one  by  one  into  the  general  gloom,  and 
then  descended  to  the  large  Kurdish  village  of  Funduk,  whose  inhabitants, 
during  the  rule  of  Beder  Khan  Bey,  were  notorious  ainungst  even  the  eavage 
tribea  of  Bohtan  for  their  hatred  and  insolence  to  Christiaiig. 

Although  we  had  now  nothing  to  fear,  I  preferred  seeking  another  spot 
for  our  aight's  halt,  and  we  passed  through  the  narrow  Etroets  as  the  fam- 
ilies were  settling  thomBclves  on  the  housetops  for  their  night's  rest.  We 
had  ridden  about  half  a  mile  when  wt»  heard  a  confused  murmur  in  the 
village,  and  saw  several  Kurds  running  towards  us  at  the  top  uf  thuir  speed. 
Mr.  C,  had  been  fairly  frightened  into  a  state  of  despair  by  the  youngest 
of  our  party,  who  entered  with  mischievous  minuteness  into  the  details  of 
the  innumerable  robberies  and  murders,  authentic  and  otherwise,  commit- 
ted  by  the  people  of  Funduk.  He  now  made  up  his  mind  that  his  last  hour 
was  come,  but  gallantly  prepared  his  double-barrelled  pistols.  Neither 
Cawal  Yusuf  nor  myself  could  exactly  make  out  what  was  in  store  for  us, 
until  the  foremost  of  the  runners,  seizing  my  bridle,  declared  that  the 
Kiayah,  ot  chief,  would  not  allow  me  to  proceed  without  partaking  of  his 
hospitality  ,  that  it  was  worse  than  an  insult  to  pass  his  bouse  without  eat- 
ing bread  and  sleeping  under  his  roof.  Other  Kurds  soon  came  up  with  us, 
using  friendly  violence  to  turn  my  horse,  and  swearing  that  the  chief,  al- 
though sulFering  from  severe  illness,  would  corne  out  himself  unless  I  con- 
sented to  retrace  my  steps.  It  was  useless  to  persist  in  a  refusal  after  sueh 
a  display  of  hospitality,  and  notwithstanding  the  protests  of  my  conipauion, 
who  believed  that  we  were  rushing  into  the  jaws  of  destruction,  I  rode  back 
to  the  village. 

Resoul  Kiayah,  although  laboring  under  a  fit  of  ague,  was  standing  at 
his  door  to  receive  me,  surrounded  by  as  ferocious  a  sot  of  friends  as  ono 
could  w^ell  desire  to  be  in  company  with.  "  He  had  entertained,"  he  ex- 
claimed, as  he  saluted  ino,  "Osmaii  Pasha  and  Ali  Pnsha.  and  it  would  be 
a  disgrace  upon  his  house  if  the  Bt^y  passed  without  eating  bread  in  it." 
In  the  meanwhile  a  sheep  had  beeu  slain,  and  comfortable  carpels  and 
cushions  spread  on  the  housetop,  His  greeting  of  Yusuf,  although  he  knew 
him  to  be  a  Yczidi,  was  so  warm  and  evidently  sincere,  that  I  was  at  a 
loss  to  account  for  it,  until  the  Cawal  explained  to  me  that  when  Khan 
Mahmoud  and  Beder  Khan  Bey's  troops  were  defeated  near  Tilleh,  the 
Kiayah  of  Funduk  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  men  of  Redwan,  who  were 
about  to  inflict  summary  justice  u[>on  him  by  pitching  hirn  into  the  river. 
He  was  rescued  by  our  friend  Akko,  who  concealed  him  in  his  house  until 
he  could  return  to  Kurdistan  in  safety.  To  show  his  gratitude  ho  has 
since  condescended  to  bestow  on  the  Yezidl  chief  the  title  of  father,  and  to 
receive  with  a  hearty  welcome  such  travellers  of  the  sect  as  may  pass 
through  his  village.  The  Kurds  of  Puuduk  wear  the  Bohtan  dress  in  its 
lull  perfection,  a  turban  nearly  three  feet  in  diameter,  shalwars  or  trowsers 
of  enormous  width,  loose  embroidered  jackets,  and  shirt  sleeves  sweeping 
the  ground ;  all  being  striped  deep  dull  red  and  black,  except  the  under- 


NINEVEH  AND  BABTUW.  fCHAP    III 

liiien  and  one  kerchief  tied  diagonally  across  the  turban,  which  is  generally 
olbripht  yellow.  Tliey  are  armed,  too,  to  the  teeth,  and  as  they  crouched 
round  the  fires  on  the  housetops,  their  savage  countenances  peering  through 
the  glootn,  my  London  companion,  unused  to  such  Ecenes,  might  well  have 
fancied  himself  in  a  den  of  thieves.  The  Kiayuh,  notwithstanding  his  bad 
reputation,  was  exact  in  all  the  duties  of  hospitality  ;  the  supper  was  abund- 
ant, the  cofl'ce  flowed  perpetually,  and  he  satisfied  my  curiosity  upon  many 
points  of  revenvie,  internal  administration,  tribe-history,  and  local  curiosi- 
ties. 

We  passed  the  night  on  the  roof  without  any  adventure,  and  resumed 
our  journey  before  dawn  on  the  following  raoniing,  to  the  great  relief  of 
Mr.  C,  who  rejoiced  to  feel  himself  well  out  of  the  hand.s  of  sueh  danger- 
ous hosts.  Crossing  a  niouiilain  wooikd  with  dwarf  oaks,  by  a  very  diffi- 
cult pathway,  carried  along  and  over  rocks  containing  many  excavated 
tombs,  we  descended  to  Fynyk,  a  village  on  the  Tigris  supposed  to  occupy 
the  site  of  an  ancient  town  (Ph^nica).*  \Vc  rested  during  the  heat  of  the 
day  in  one  of  the  pleasant  gardens  with  which  the  village  is  surrounded 
At  its  entrance  was  a  group  of  girls  and  an  old  Kurd  baking  bread  in  a  hole 
in  the  grouud,  plastered  with  clay.  "  Have  you  any  bread  ?"  we  asked. 
— "No,  by  the  Prophet  1"  "Any  buttermilk?" — "No,  by  my  faith!" 
"Any  fruit?" — "No, by  Allah  !" — the  trees  wtTe  groaiiiug  under  the  weight 
of  figs,  pomegranates,  pears,  ami  grapes.  He  then  asked  a  string  of  ques- 
tions in  his  turn:  "Whence  do  you  come?" — "From  afar.'"  "What  is 
your  busiiicss?" — "What  God  commands  I"  "Whither  arc  you  going?" 
— "As  Goi  wdls  '."  The  old  gciitk-man,  having  thus  satisfiecj  himself  as 
to  our  character  and  intentions,  although  our  answers  were  undoubtedly 
vague  enough,  and  might  have  been  elsewhere  considered  evasive,  left  lu 
without  saying  a  word  more,  but  soon  after  came  back  bearing  a  large  bowl 
of  curds,  and  a  bosket  filled  with  the  finest  fruit.  Placing  these  dainties 
before  me,  ho  ordered  the  girls  to  bake  bread,  which  they  speedily  did, 
bringing  us  the  hot  cakes  as  they  drew  them  from  their  primiiive  oven. 

After  we  had  breakfasted,  some  Kurds  who  had  gathered  round  us,  of- 
fered to  take  me  to  a  rock,  sculptured,  they  said,  with  unknown  Frank  fig- 
ures. We  rodo  up  a  narrow  and  shady  ravine,  through  which  leapt  a 
brawling  torrent,  watering  fruit  trees  and  melon  beds.  The  rocks  on  both 
sides  wore  honeycombed  with  tombs.  The  bas-relief  is  somewhat  above  the 
line  of  cultivation,  and  is  surrounded  by  excavated  chambers.     It  consists 


*  It  was  at  the  foot  of  this  steep  descent  that  Xenoplion  was  compelled  to  turn  off, 
na  caravans  still  arc,  from  the  river,  and  lu  brave  liie  difficulties  of  a  mountain  pass, 
defended  l>y  the  warlike  Cardudii  or  Kurds  The  Rhodian,  who  olTiTed  to  construct 
abridge  with  the  inflated  skins  of  slirep,  goals,  oxen,  and  asses,  anclmrinn  thcin  wiili 
stones,  and  coverirR  thfni  with  fawincs  and  fanli,  had  jicrluips  taken  his  idna  froii, 
the  rafts  which  were  then  used  fsjr  Ihi;  niivigalion  of  the  Tigris,  as  thcv  are  to  lliid 
day.  As  there  was  a  hu'gc  twdy  of  lite  enemy  on  Hie  opposite  aide,  ready  lo  dispute 
the  passage,  the  Greeks  were  unable  (o  avail  themselves  of  his  ingenious  suggestion. 


Ciup.  III.) 


ROCK  SCPLPTUBB* 


of  two  figures,  dressed  in  loose  vcata  and 
Irowsers,  one  ajiparcntly  rcstiiijr  his  hand 
on  the  shoulder  of  the  other.  There 
are  the  rcmaius  of  an  inscription,  but  too 
much  weather-worn  to  bo  copied  with 
any  accuracy.  The  costume  of  the  fig- 
ures, and  the  forms  of  tiic  characters,  aa 
far  as  they  can  be  distinguished,  prove 
that  the  tablet  belongs  to  the  Parthian 
period.  It  closely  resembles  monuments 
of  the  some  epoch  existing  m  the  mount- 
ains of  Persia.^  Most  of  the  surround- 
ing tombs,  like  those  of  Akhlat,  contain 

/  three  troughs  or  niches  fur  the  deatl,  one 
ou  each  side,  and  a  third  facing  the  en- 
trance. 
We  quilted  Fynyk  in  the  afternoon. 

■  .\ccompanied  by  Cawal  Yusuf  and  Mr. 
L'  ,  I  left  the  caravan  to  examine  some 
rock-sculplurcs,  m  a  valley  leading  from 


Rock  Scttl|>suru  lieu;  Juiirub. 

•  Particularly  iluwe  whiclii  I  iliscovcred  near  Shimbor,  in  the  mountains  ofSusiana- 
(Journal  of  Ceog.  Soc.  vol  xvi.  p  84  ) 


46 


NmSVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  HI. 


Jezireh  to  Derghileh,  the  former  ntrong'hold  of  Beder  Khan  Bey.  The 
aculpUires  are  about  two  miles  from  the  high  road,  near  a  email  fort  bnilt 
by  Mir  Saif-ed-din,*  and  now  occupied  by  a  garrison  of  Arnaouts.  There 
are  two  tablets,  one  above  the  other ;  the  upper  contains  a  warrior  on 
horseback,  the  lower  a  singlo  figure.  Although  no  traces  of  inscription 
remain,  the  bas-reliefs  may  confidently  be  assigned  to  the  same  period  as 
that  at  Fynyk.  Beneath  them  is  a  long  cutting,  and  tunnel  in  the  rock, 
probably  an  ancient  watercourse  for  irrigation,  to  record  the  construction 
of  -which  the  tablets  may  have  been  sculptured.  On  our  return  we  passed 
a  solitary  Turkish  officer,  followed  by  his  servant,  winding  up  the  gorge  on 
his  way  to  Derghileh,  where  one  Ali  Pasha  was  stationed  with  a  detach- 
meiit  of  troops  ;  a  proof  of  the  change  which  had  taken  place  in  the  coun< 
try  since  my  last  visit,  when  Beder  Khan  Bey  was  still  powerful,  and  no 
Turk  would  have  ventured  into  that  wild  valley. 

We  found  the  caravan  at  Mansouriyah,  where  they  had  established 
themselves  for  the  night.  This  is  one  of  the  very  few  Neslorian  Chaldasan 
villages  of  the  plains  which  has  nut  gone  over  to  the  Roman  Catholic  faith. 
It  contains  a  church,  and  supports  a  priest.  The  inhabitants  complained 
much  of  oppression,  and,  unfortunately,  chiefly  from  brother  Christians  for- 
merly of  their  own  creed.  I  was  much  struck  with  the  intelligence  and 
beauty  of  ihe  children  ;  one  boy,  scarcely  twelve  years  of  age,  was  already 
a  sharnasha  or  deacon,  and  could  read  with  ease  the  Scriptures  and  the 
commentaries. 

We  left  Mansouriyah  at  four  in  the  morning,  passing  Jezireh  about  dawn, 
its  towers  and  walls  just  visible  through  the  haze  on  the  ojiposile  bank  of 
the  Tigris.  Shortly  after  we  were  unexjiectedly  met.  by  a  number  of  Yez- 
idi  horsemen,  who,  having  heard  of  our  approach  from  the  messengers  sent 
to  Hussein  Bey.  had  ridden  throngh  the  night  from  Dcreboun  to  escort 
U8.  They  were  mounted  on  strong,  well-bred  Arab  raares,  and  armed 
with  long  lances  tipped  with  ostrich-feathers.  We  learnt  from  them  that 
the  country  was  in  a  very  disturbed  state,  on  account  of  the  incursions  of  the 
Desert  Arabs ;  but  as  a  strong  party  was  watting  to  accompany  ub  to  Se- 
mil,  I  determined  upon  taking  the  shorter,  though  more  dangerous  and  less 
frequented,  road  by  Dcreboun.  This  road,  impracticable  to  caravans  ex- 
cept when  the  river  Khabour  is  fordable,  winds  round  the  spur  of  the  Zak- 
ko  hills,  and  thus  avoids  a  ditlicutt  and  precipitous  pass.  We  stopped  to 
breakfast  at  the  large  Catholic  Chaldajan  village  of  Tiekhtan,  one  of  the 
many  settlements  of  the  same  sect  scattered  over  the  singularly  fertile  plain 
of  Zakko.     The  Yezidi  Kochers,  or  Nomades,  had  begun  to  descend  from 


•  Mir  Saif-cd-din  was  ihe  hereditiiry  cliief  of  Bohtan,  in  whose  name  Beder  Ktian 
Bey  exercised  his  aulhonly.  His  son,  Asdenshir  (a  ethrruiaion  of  .Vnicshir)  Dey,  is 
now  under  surveiltancf:  amnngHt  (he  Turks.  .So  well  awarr  was  Beder  Klian.  Bey  of 
the  necessity  of  keeping  up  tlie  idea  aiimngst  the  Kurds,  ilial  his  power  was  delega- 
ted to  him  by  the  Mir.  that  he  gijmed  most  of  his  pubhc  documents  wiih  that  chiePa 
seal,  although  ho  coufmed  him  a  close  pnsoner  until  his  death. 


Chap.  UI.] 


VILLAGE  OP  SEMtL. 


the  nioutitain  pastures,  and  their  black  tents  and  huts  of  boughs  aiid  dried 
grass  were  scattered  amongst  the  villages.  We  forded  the  Khabour,  where 
Ut  is  divided  into  sovcral  branches,  and  not  iar  I'roin  its  junction  with  the 
Tigris.  The  water  in  no  part  reached  much  above  the  horses'  bellies,  and 
the  stream  was  far  less  rapid  than  that  of  the  eastern  Tigris,  at  Tilleh. 
DerebouD  is  a  large  Yezidi  village  standing  on  tiie  western  spur  of  the  Zak* 

I  range.  Numerous  springs  burst  from  the  surrounding  rocks,  and  irrigate 
ftxteusive  rice-grounds.  Below  is  the  large  Christian  village  ofFeshapoor, 
where  there  is  a  ferry  across  the  Tigris.  We  were  most  hospitably  entertain- 
ed by  the  Yezidi  chief,  one  of  the  horsemen  who  had  met  us  near  Jezireh. 

We  mounted  our  horaos  as  the  moon  rose,  and  resumed  our  journey,  ac- 
coiupauied  by  a  strong  escort,  which  left  us  when  wc  were  within  five  or 
six  miles  of  Semi  I.  It  was  late  in  the  forenoon  before  we  reached  our 
balling- place,  ufler  a  dreary  and  fatiguing  ride.  We  were  now  fairly  in 
the  Assyrian  plains;  the  heat  was  intense — that  heavy  heat,  which  seems 
to  paralyse  all  nature,  causing  the  very  air  itself  to  vibrate.  The  high 
artificial  mouud  of  the  Yezidi  village,  crowned  by  a  modem  mud-built  cas- 
tle, had  been  visible  in  the  distance  long  before  we  reached  it,  imraged 
into  double  its  real  size,  and  into  an  imposing  group  of  towexs  and  forlilioa- 
tions.  Almost  overcome  with  weariness,  we  toiled  up  to  it,  and  found  its 
owner,  Abde  Agha,  the  Yezidi  chieftain,  sealed  in  the  gate,  a  vaulted  en- 
trance with  deep  recesses  on  both  sides,  used  as  places  of  assembly  for  busi- 
ness during  tlie  day,*  and  as  places  of  rest  for  guests  during  the  night. 
Ho  was  of  a  tall,  commanding  figure,  with  the  deepest  and  most  powerful 
voice  I  ever  heard.  We  arrived  earlier  than  he  had  exjHjctcd,  our  forced 
march  from  Uereboun  having  saved  us  some  hours,  and  he  apologised  for 
not  having  ridden  out  to  meet  us.  His  reception  was  most  hospitable ; 
the  lamb  was  slain  and  the  feast  prepared.  But,  in  the  midst  of  our  greet- 
Bg»,  a  man  appeared  breathless  before  him.  The  Bedouins  had  attacked 
the  neighbouring  district  and  the  village  of  Pashai,  beloMging  to  Abde 
Agba's  tribe.  No  time  was  lost  in  idle  preparations.  The  messenger  had 
scarcely  delivered  his  message,  and  answered  a  few  necessary  inquiries,  be- 
^  fore  the  high  bred  mare  was  led  out  ready  saddled  from  the  harem ;  her 
owiK'r  lea[it  on  her  back,  and  followed  by  a  small  body  of  horsemen,  his 
immediate  ilependaiit.s,  gallojied  oil"  in  the  direction  of  the  Tigris.  Wea- 
ried by  my  long  night's  march  I  retreated  to  a  cool  dark  chamber  in  the  cas- 
tle, unmindful  of  the  bloody  business  on  which  its  owner  had  sallied  forth. 

Abde  Agha  did  not  return  that  day.  but  his  wife  well  performed  all  the 

•  The  eiwit«)in  of  38<»e»nbling  and  transariing  liualiipsa  in  Mw  gale  is  coDiLnuaUy 
reff  rrrd  to  in  ihe  Bible.  See  3  Sam.  xix.  8..  where  king  Daviil  is  represented  as 
nilUnyi  in  the  grate;  coinp.  2  Cliron.  xviii.  9.,  and  Dan  ii  49.  The  gates  of  Jewish 
houses  wi-re  proliahly  siiniliir  (<>  (liat  dosoribt'd  in  the  text.  Such  ptUninces  are  also 
found  in  Persia.  Freiinently  in  the  jjatps  of  t-ities,  as  at  Mosul,  these  reecssea  are 
used  OS  shops  for  the  saU;  of  wheat  and  barley,  bread  and  Kr<jeery.  liUsha  propiie- 
sies  that  a  measure  of  fine  dour  shall  be  mid  for  a  shekd,  and  two  measures  of  ha- 
ley  for  a  shekel,  la  the  gate  of  Samaria.    2  Kings,  vii.  1.  and  18. 


48 


NlNBVSn  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  I  it. 


duties  of  hospitality  in  his  stead.  Messengers  occasionally  came  running 
from  the  scene  of  the  fight  with  the  latest  news,  mostly,  as  in  such  cases, 
greatly  exaggerated,  to  the  alarm  i>f'  those  who  remaineij  in  the  castle. 
But  the  chief  hirascvll' did  noj  uppeiir  usitil  near  dawn  the  following  morn- 
ing, as  we  were  preparing  to  renew  our  joiiruey.  He  had  not  been  idle 
during  his  absence,  and  bis  adherents  concurred  in  stating  that  he  had 
killed  live  Arabs  with  his  own  hand.  His  brother,  however,  had  received 
a  dangerous  wound,  and  one  of  bis  relations  had  been  slain.  He  advised 
us  to  make  the  best  of  our  way  to  Tel  Eskoii',  before  the  Arabs  were  either 
repulsed,  or  had  succeeded  in  taking  Pashai.  He  could  not  furnish  us  with 
an  escort,  as  every  man  capable  of  bearing  arms  was  wanted  to  defend 
the  district  against  the  Bedouins,  who  were  now  swarming  over  the  river 
to  support  their  companions.  Taking  a  hasty  leave  of  us,  aud  changing 
his  tired  mare,  he  rushed  again  to  the  fight.  Wo  rode  ofl'iu  the  direction 
of  the  hills,  taking  an  upper  road,  less  likely  to  be  occupied  by  the  Arabs. 

About  three  miles  from  tjemil  we  saw  a  horseman  closely  pursued  by  a 
Bedouin,  who  was  fast  coming  up  with  hiin,  but  on  observing  us  turiked 
back,  and  soon  disappeared  in  the  distance.  The  fugitive  was  a  Mosuleeati 
Spahi,  with  broken  spear,  and  speechless  with  terror.  When  he  had  sufB- 
cienlly  recovered  himself  to  sjwak,  he  declared  that  the  Bedouins  had  de- 
feated the  Yezidis,  and  were  spreading  over  the  country.  Although  not 
putting  much  faith  in  the  information,  I  urged  on  the  earavaji,  and  look 
such  precautions  as  were  necessary.  Suddenly  a  large  body  of  horsemen 
appeared  on  a  rising  ground  to  the  east  of  us.  We  could  scarcely  expect 
Arabs  from  that  quarter;  however,  all  our  party  made  ready  for  an  attack. 
Cawal  Yusuf  and  myself,  being  the  best  rnouuled,  rode  towards  them  to  re- 
connoitre. Then  one  or  two  horsemen  advanced  warily  from  the  opposite 
party,  We  ueared  each  other.  Yusuf  spied  the  well-known  black  turban, 
dashed  forward  with  a  shout  of  joy,  and  in  a  moment  we  were  surrounded, 
and  iiL  the  embrace  of  friends.  Hussein  Bey  and  Sheikh  Nasr,  with  the 
Cawals  and  Y^czidi  elders,  had  ridden  nearly  forty  miles  through  the  night 
to  meet  and  escort  mo,  if  needful,  to  Mosul  1  Their  delight  at  seeing  us 
knew  no  bounds;  nor  was  1  less  touched  by  a  display  of  gratitude  and  good 
feehng,  equally  unexpected  and  sincere. 

They  rode  with  lis  as  fur  as  Tel  Eskoff",  where  the  danger  from  the 
Arabs  ceased,  and  then  turned  their  hardy  marcs,  still  fresh  after  their  long 
journey,  towards  Sheikhan.  I  was  now  once  more  with  old  friends.  We 
had  spent  the  first  day  of  our  journey,  on  leaving  Mogul  two  years  ago.  in 
the  house  of  Toma,  ihc  Christian  Kiayah  of  Tel  Eskoff;  we  now  cat  bread 
with  him  the  last  on  our  return.  In  the  aflernoon,  as  wo  rode  towards 
Tel  Kef,  I  left  the  high  road  with  Hormuzd  to  drink  water  at  some  Arab 
tents.  As  we  approached  we  were  greeted  with  exclamations  of  joy,  and 
were  soon  in  the  midst  of  a  crowd  of  men  and  women,  kis.iitig  our  knees, 
and  exhibiting  other  tokens  of  welcome.  They  wore  .lebours,  who  had 
been  employed  in  the  excavations.     Hearing  that  we  were  again  going  to 


Chap.  lU] 


A  HAPPY  MEETING. 


49 


dig  after  old  Btonea,  they  at  once  set  about  striking  their  tents  to  join  us  at 
liosul  or  Nimroud. 

As  we  ueared  Tel  Kef  we  found  groups  of  my  old  superintendents  and 
workmen  by  the  road  side.  There  were  fut  Totna,  Munsour,  Behnati,  and 
Hannah,  joyful  at  meeting  mc  ouce  more,  and  at  the  prospect  of  fresh  serv- 
ice. Ir  the  village  we  found  Mr.  Rassam  (the  vice-consul)  and  Khoilja 
Toma,  his  dragoman,  who  had  made  ready  the  feast  for  us  at  the  house 
of  the  Chaldaiau  bishop.  Next  morning,  as  we  rode  the  three  last  hours 
of  our  journey,  we  met  fresh  grmips  of  familiar  faces  : — Merjan,  with  luy 
k«ld  groom  holding  the  stirrup  ready  lor  me  to  mount,  the  noble  animal  look- 
ing as  beautiful,  as  fresh,  and  as  sleek  as  when  I  last  saw  him,  although 
two  long  years  had  passed  ;  former  servants,  Awad  and  the  Sheikhs  of  the 
Jebours,  even  the  very  greyhounds  who  had  been  brought  up  under  my 
roof  Then  as  we  ascend  an  eminence  midway,  walls,  towers,  minarets, 
and  domes  rise  boldly  from  the  margin  of  the  broad  river,  cheating  us  into 
the  belief,  too  soon  to  be  dispelled,  that  Mosul  is  still  a  not  unworthy  rep- 
resentative of  the  great  Nineveh.  As  we  draw  near,  the  long  line  of 
lofty  mounds,  the  only  remains  of  mighty  bulwarks  and  spacious  gates,  de- 
tach themselves  from  the  low  undulating  hills ;  now  the  vast  mound  of 
Kouyunjik  overtops  the  surrounding  heaps  ;  then  above  it  peers  the  white 
cone  of  the  tomb  of  the  prophet  Jonah ;  many  other  well-remembered  spots 
follow  in  rapid  succession  ;  but  wo  cannot  linger.  Hastening  over  the 
creaking  bridge  of  boats,  we  force  our  way  through  the  crowded  bazars, 
and  alight  at  the  house  I  had  left  two  years  ago.  Old  servants  take  their 
places  as  a  matter  of  course,  and,  uninvited,  pursue  their  regular  occupa- 
tions as  if  they  had  never  been  interrupted.  Indeed  it  seemed  as  if  wp 
had  but  returned  li'um  a  Dununer's  ride  ;  two  years  had  passed  awuy  like  a 
dream. 

I  may  in  this  place  add  a  few  words  on  part  of  the  route  pursued  by 
Xcnophon  and  the  Ten  Thousand  during  their  memorable  retreat,  the  iden- 
tification of  which  had  been  one  of  my  principal  objects  during  our  journey 
I  have,  in  the  course  of  my  narrative,  already  pointed  out  one  or  two  spoU 
signalled  by  remarkable  events  on  their  march. 

I  must  first  stale  my  conviction  that  the  parasang,  like  its  representa- 
tive the  modern  farsang  or  farsakb  of  Persia,  was  not  a  measure  of  digtanci- 
very  accurately  delennined,  but  rather  indicated  a  certain  amount  of  tiiiK- 
employed  in  traversing  a  given  space.  Travellers  are  well  aware  that  tlu- 
Persian  farsakh  varies  considerably  according  to  the  nature  of  the  country, 
and  the  usual  modes  of  conveyance  adopted  by  its  inhabitants.  In  the 
plains  of  Khorassan  and  central  Persia,  where  mutes  and  horseit  are  rhiitlly 
used  by  caravans,  it  is  equal  to  about  four  miles,  whilst  in  the  inuuntaiiiDiiit 
regions  of  Western  Persia,  where  the  roads  are  difficult  and  pritcipilou». 
and  iu  Mesopotamia  and  Arabia,  where  camels  are  the  common  bivnuts  of 
burden,  it  Scarcely  amounts  to  three.  The  farsakh  and  the  hour  aro  al- 
most invariably  used  as  expressing  the  same  distance.     That  Xcnuphou 

D 


50 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  UI. 


reckoned  by  the  common  mode  of  computation  of  the  country  is  evident 
by  his  employing,  airnost  always,  the  Persian  "  parasang"  instead  of  the 
Greek  stadium  ;  and  thai  the  parasang  waa  the  same  as  the  modern  hour, 
wo  find  by  the  distance  between  Larissa  (Nimroud)  and  Mcspila  (Kouyun- 
jik)  being  given  as  six  parusanga,  corresponding  exactly  with  the  number 
')f  hours  assigned  by  the  present  inhabitants  of  the  country,  and  by  the  au- 
thorities  oi' the  Turkish  post,  to  the  same  road.  The  six  hours  in  this  in- 
stance arc  equal  to  about  eighteen  English  miles. 

The  ford,  by  which  the  Greeks  crossed  the  Great  Zab  (Zabates)  may,  I 
ihiiik,  be  accurately  determined.  It  is  still  the  principal  ford  in  this  part 
of  the  river,  and  must,  from  the  nature  of  the  bed  of  the  stream,  have  been 
'O  from  the  earliest  periods.  It  is  about  twenty-five  miles  from  the  con- 
iluence  of  the  Zab  and  Tigris.*  A  march  of  twenty-live  stadia,  or  nearly 
three  miles,  in  the  direction  of  Larissa,  would  have  brought  thcmi  to  the 
(rhazir,  or  Bumadus ;  and  this  stream  was,  I  have  little  doubt,  the  deep 
valley  formed  by  the  torrent  where  Mithridatcs,  venturing  to  attack  the  re- 
treating army,  was  signally  defeated.!  This  action  took  place  eight  stadia 
l>eyond  the  valley ;  the  Persian  commander  having  neglected  to  intercept 
the  Greeks  when  endeavouring  to  cross  the  difficult  ravine,  in  which  they 
would  most  probably  have  been  entangled.  A  short  march  of  three  para- 
■jangs,  or  hours,(  brought  them  to  Larissa,  the  modern  Nimroud.  The 
Greeks  could  not  have  crossed  the  Zab  above  the  spot  I  have  indicated, 
iia  the  bed  of  the  river  is  deep,  and  confined  within  high  rocky  banks. 
They  might  have  done  so  below  the  junction  of  the  Ghazir,  and  a  ravine 
worn  by  winter  rains  may  correspond  with  the  valley  mentioned  by  Xeno- 
l)hou,  but  I  think  the  Ghazir  far  more  likely  to  have  been  the  torrent  bed 
viewed  with  so  much  alarm  by  the  Greek  commander,  and  the  passage  of 
which  Mithridatcs  might  have  disputed  with  some  prospect  of  success.^ 

That  Larissa  and  Mespila  are  represented  by  the  ruins  of  Nimroud  and 
Kouyunjik  no  ouc  can  reasoaabty  doubt.  Xenophon's  description  corre- 
■.poiids  most  accurately  with  the  ruins  and  with  the  distance  between  them 

From  Mespita  the  Greeks  marched  four  parasaogs  and  probably  halted 
near  the  modern  village  of  Batnai,  between  Tel  Kef  and  Tel  Eskof,  an 
ancieut  site  exactly  four  hours,  by  the  usual  caravan  road,  from  Kouyunjik. 
Vlany  ancient  mounds  around  Batnai  mark  the  remains  of  those  villages, 
iroin  which,  after  having  repulsed  the  Persian  forces  under  Tissaphernes 
md  Orontas,  the  Greeks  obtained  an  abundant  supply  of  provisions.  In- 
stead of  iardiug  the  Khabour  near  its  junction  with  the  Tigris,  and  thus 

*  Mr.  .^tnsworth  would  lake  the  Gre^'ks  up  to  the  modem  ferry,  where  there  could 
never  have  been  a  lord,  and  wliicli  woultl  have  been  some  miles  out  of  their  route. 
(Travi'ls  in  llie  Trai-k  of  llie  Ten  Thousand  )  +  Anab.  book  iii.  ch.  4. 

t  Xenophon  merely  sayslhiit  they  marched  the  rnst  of  the  day.  After  the  action, 
ihey  coulil  srarccly  have;  mlviuiccd  more  than  three  paraaanifB,  or  nine  iinh>a. 

I)  In  HhaptiT  .X  will  be  found  some  further  r<'markfl  on  this  subjprl;  many  rea- 
cions,  based  upon  personal  expenenee,  nmy  be  adduced  for  the  probability  of  Xeno- 
plion's  preferring  the  upper  ford. 


Chap.  IH] 


HNOPHON'S  RBTRXAT. 


51 


SToiding  the  hills,  they  crossed  them  by  a  precipitous  pass  to  the  site  of 
the  modern  Zakko.  They  reached  this  range  in  four  days,  traversing  it  on 
the  fillh,  probably  by  the  modern  caravan  road.  The  distance  from  Bat- 
nai  to  Zakko,  according  to  the  Turkish  post,  is  twenty  hours.  This  would 
give  between  four  and  five  hours,  or  parasangs,  a  day  for  the  march  of  the 
Greeks,  the  distance  they  usually  perl'ormed.  They  were  probably  much 
retarded  during  the  last  day,  by  having  to  fight  their  way  over  three  dis- 
tinct mountain  ridges.  It  is  remarkable  that  Xenophon  does  not  mention 
the  Khabour,  although  he  must  have  crossed  that  river  either  by  a  ford  or 
by  a  bridge*  before  reaching  the  plain.  Yet  the  stream  is  broad  and  rapid, 
and  the  fords  at  all  times  deep.  Nor  does  he  allude  to  the  Hazel,  a  con- 
fluent of  the  Khabour,  to  which  he  came  during  his  first  day's  march,  after 
leaving  Zakko.  These  omissions  prove  that  he  does  not  give  an  accurate 
itinerary  of  his  route. 

Four  days'  march,  the  first  of  only  sixty  stadia,  or  about  seven  miles,t 
brought  the  Greeks  to  the  high  mountains  of  Kurdistan,  which,  meeting 
the  Tigris,  shut  out  all  further  advance  except  by  difficult  and  prccipiloui 
passes,  already  occupied  by  the  Persians.  Xenophon,  having  dislodged  the 
enemy  from  the  first  ridge,  returned  to  the  main  body  of  the  army,  which 
had  remained  in  the  plain.  This  must  have  been  near  Fynyk,  where  the 
very  foot  of  the  Kurdish  mountains  is  first  washed  by  the  river.  The  spot 
agrees  accurately  with  Xenophon's  description,  as  it  does  with  the  distance. 
*'  The  Greeks,"  says  he,  "  came  to  a  place  where  the  river  Tigris  is,  both 
from  its  d^pth  and  breadth,  absotutely  impassable  ;  no  road  appeared,  the 
craggy  mountains  of  the  Carduchians  hanging  over  the  river."  The  orti;r 
of  the  Rhodian  to  cross  the  army  on  inflated  skins,  bound  together  to  form 
abridge,  having  been  rejected,  on  account  of  the  strong  Ibrce  assembled  on 
the  opposite  side  to  dispute  the  pasFage,  the  Greeks  marched  back  to  the 
villages.  The  Persian  prisoners  informed  Xenophon  that  four  roads  branch- 
ed off  from  this  spot :  one  to  the  south,  by  which  the  Greeks  had  retreated 
from  Babylonia  ;  the  second  eastwards,  to  Susa  and  Ecbataua,  by  the  plain 
of  Zakko,  the  modern  Amadiyah,  Suleimaniyah,  and  the  foot  of  the  great 
range  of  Zagros  ;  a  third  to  the  west,  crossing  the  Tigris,  near  Jfzirt4i,  and 
thence  through  Orfa,  Aintab,  Tarsus,  and  the  Cilician  gales  to  Lydia  and 
Ionia ;  and  a  fourth  across  the  mountains  of  tho  Carduchians,  or  Kurdis- 
tan. The  tribes  infesting  this  fourth  road  were  represented  to  Xeuophou 
as  notorious  for  thetr  courage  and  warlike  habits.  They  only  held  inter- 
course with  the  inhabitants  of  the  low  country,  when  they  were  at  peace 
with  the  governor  residing  in  the  plain,  and  such  has  been  precisely  the 
case  with  their  descendants  to  this  day.     This  route  was,  however,  pre- 

•  He  proUaWy  look  the  more  (liffieiilt  roaif  over  Ihc  pass,  and  out  that  round  the 
spur,  tn  order  to  cross  tliR  Khatxiur  dy  a  lirieJgc  or  ferry.  It  miiat  be  n'tiit'tnberetl 
that  it  was  winter,  and  th.il  the  rivers  wore  consequently  swollen. 

f  This  halt,  alter  so  short  a  day's  march,  may  have  been  occaeiuneil  fay  the  Hazel. 
The  disEtance  corresponds  with  sufficient  accuracy. 


52 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap    III 


ferred,  aa  it  led  into  Armenia,  a  country  from  which  ihey  might  choo6« 
their  own  road  to  the  Bca,  and  which  abounded  in  villages  and  the  neccs- 
garies  of  life. 

The  Greeks  appear  to  have  followed  the  ronle  taken  by  Sultan  Murad 
in  his  expedition  against  Bughdad,  ami,  rucentjy,  by  part  of  the  Turkish 
forces  sent  against  Beder  Kiiaii  Bey  ;  in  fact,  the  great  natural  highway 
from  the  remotest  period  between  eastern  Armenia  and  Assyria,  Beyond 
the  Carduchian  mountains  there  were,  according  to  the  prisoners,  two  roads 
into  Armenia,  one  crcsaing  the  head  waters  of  the  principal  branch  of  the 
Tigris,  the  olher  going  round  them  ;  that  ia,  leaving  them  to  the  left. 
These  are  the  roads  to  this  day  followed  by  caravans,  one  crossing  the 
plains  of  Kherzan  to  Diarbekir,  and  thence,  by  well-known  mountain-pasaes 
to  Kharput,  the  other  passing  through  Bitlis.  Xenophon  chose  the  latter. 
The  villages  in  the  valleys  and  recesses  of  the  niountaina  are  still  fonn^ 
around  Funduk  ;  and,  on  Iheir  first  day's  marGh  over  the  Carduchian  hills, 
the  Greeks  probably  reached  the  neighbourhood  of  this  village.  There 
now  remained  about  ten  parasangs  lo  the  plain  through  which  tlows  the 
eastern  branch  of  the  Tigris;  but  the  country  was  diflicnlt,  and  at  this 
time  of  the  year  (nearly  midwinter),*  the  lower  road  along  the  river  was 
impassable.  The  Greeks  had,  therefore,  to  force  their  way  over  a  series 
of  dilficult  passes,  all  stonily  defended  by  warlike  tribes.  They  were  con- 
■equeiitly  four  days  in  reaching  the  Ccntritis,  or  eastern  Tigris,  the  united 
waters  of  the  rivers  of  Bitlis,  Sent,  and  Bohtan.  The  stream  was  rapid, 
the  water  reaching  to  the  breast,  and  the  ford,  owing  to  the  uneveniicss  of 
the  bottom  and  the  loose,  slippery  stones,  e.vceedingly  difficult ;  such,  it 
will  be  remembered,  we  found  to  be  the  case  near  Tilleh.  The  opposite 
banks  were,  moreover,  defended  by  the  combined  forces  of  the  Armenians, 
Mygdonians,  and  Chalda-ans.  I(  was  impossible  to  cross  the  river  at  this 
spot  in  the  face  of  the  enemy.  At  length  a  ford  was  discovereJ  higher  up, 
and  Xenophon,  by  skilful  strategy,  effected  the  passage.  This  must  have 
been  at  a  short  distance  from  Tilleh,  as  the  river,  nan-owed  between  rocky 
banks,  is  no  longer  fordablo  higher  up.  The  Greeks  came  upon  the  Cen- 
trilia  soon  after  leaving  the  CarJuchiaii  mountains. 

The  direct  and  most  practicable  road  would  now  have  been  along  the 


■•  It  is  a  mailer  ofaiirprisc  ihat  Cyrus  should  have  chosen  the  very  miiidlc  of  sum- 
imT  for  his  expedition  into  Qahytonia,  and  still  more  wond<;rfiil  that  tlic  Greeks,  un- 
used to  the  inlriise  heals  of  Mpso[Mitainia,  and  encumbered  with  their  heavy  arms 
and  armour,  sh<iuld  liave  bet'n  able  to  hravo  the  <;limati>.  No  Turkish  or  Persian 
commander  would  in  ttifse  days  vpntare  to  undertake  a  campaign  against  the  Arabs 
in  this  season  of  tlie  year;  for.  besides  the  heat,  the  want  of  watrr  would  be  almost 
an  insurminintiiWf  obstacle.  During  their  rptrtut,  llie  Greeks  bad  to  cnroimler  alt 
the  rigor  of  an  Armeoian  winlor;  so  tliat,  during  the  few  months  they  were  under 
arms,  Ihey  went  through  the  most  trying  e.xtrenifa  of  climate.  The  expedition  of 
Alexander  was  also  undertaken  in  the  niiddJe  uf  aiimriier.  It  tuust,  however,  be 
borne  in  nund,  that  Mesopniamia  was  jjrotiably  tju'n  thickly  ppo]dt>d  and  well  culti- 
vated, and  ihat  canals  and  wclla  uf  water  must  have  abounded. 


Chat.  111.] 


XBNOPHON'S  R£TRBAT. 


63 


river  banks  to  Bitlis  ;*  but  owing  to  the  frequent  incureions  of  the  Carduchi, 
the  villages  in  that  direction  had  been  abandoned,  and  the  Greeks  were 
compelled  to  turn  to  the  westward,  to  find  provisions  and  habitations. 
Still  there  was  no  road  into  Armenia,  particularly  at  this  time  of  year,  for 
an  army  encumbered  with  baggage,  except  that  through  the  Bitlis  valley. 
The  remains  of  an  ancient  causeway  are  even  now  to  be  traced,  and  this 
])robably  has  always  been  the  great  thoroughfare  between  western  Armenia 
and  the  Assyrian  plains.  Xcnoplion  consequently  made  nearly  the  soxne 
detour  as  I  had  made  on  my  journey  from  Constantinople. 

Six  marches,  of  five  parasangs  each,  brought  them  to  the  small  river 
Teleboas.  I  am  convinced  that  this  river  cannot  be  identified  with  the 
Kara  Su,  which  would  bo  at  least  between  forty  and  lii'ly  parasangs,  or 
from  eight  to  ten  days'  march,  from  Tilleh,  supposing  Xenophon  to  have 
made  the  smallest  possible  deviation  to  the  west.  I  believe  the  Teleboas 
to  have  been  the  river  of  Bitlis. t  After  crossing  the  low  country  of  Kher- 
zan,  well  described  by  Xenophon  as  "a  plain  varied  by  hills  of  an  easy 
Osceut,"  the  Greeks  must  necessarily  have  turned  slightly  to  the  eastward 
to  reach  the  Bitlis  valley,  as  inaccessible  muuutaius  stopped  all  further 
progress.  My  caravan  was  thirty-three  hours  in  journeying  from  Billis  to 
Tilleh,  corresponding  exactly  with  the  six  days'  march  of  the  Greeks. 
They  probably  came  to  the  river  somewhat  below  the  site  of  the  nioderu 
town,  where  it  well  deserves  the  epithet  of  "  beaulilul."  It  may  have 
then  had,  as  at  this  day,  many  villages  near  its  banks.  It  will  be  ob- 
served that  Xenophon  says  that  tfiei/  came  to,  not  that  they  crossed,  the 
Teleboas. 

From  this  river  they  reached  the  Euphrates  in  six  marches,  making,  as 
usual,  five  parasangs  each  day  ;  in  all,  thirty  parasangs,  or  hours,  Now 
from  the  Kara  Su  to  the  Euphrates,  even  supposing  the  Greeks  to  have 
gone  far  to  the  eastward  out  of  the  direct  route  on  the  plain  of  Malaskert, 
there  would  scarcely  be  twenty  parasangs,  whereas  the  high  road  from  Bit- 
lis to  Northern  Armenia  would  lead  in  exactly  thirty  hours,  or  six  niarches, 
to  the  Euphrates,  which  it  crosses  near  Karaghal.  I  believe,  therefore, 
that,  after  isstiing  from  the  valley  of  Bitlis,  Xenophon  turned  to  the  west- 
ward, leaving  the  lake  of  Wan  a  little  to  the  right,  though  completely  con- 
cealed from  him  by  a  range  of  low  hills, t  Skirting  the  western  foot  of 
the  Niraroud  Dagb  range,  he  passed  through  a  plain  thickly  inhabited, 
abounding  in  well-provisioned  villages,  and  crossed  here  and  there  by  ranges 
of  hills.     This  country  still  tallies  precisely  with  Xcnophon'a  description. 


•  That  by  Sert  pasoes  over  very  |jrect|)itous  niauiitaiiis,  anil  is  only  now  laketi  by 
caravans,  because  ii  Ih  more  aeeure  lliaii  i)ie  otUcr,  ami  leads  tlirougli  a  town  in  wliidi 
there  is  some  trade. 

t  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  river  of  BiUis  joins  the  Sert  Su  before  it  fiilla 
inio  tlie  main  branch  of  ihe  Tigris  at  'I'llli'h,  and  might  therefore,  under  a  different 
name,  have  appeared  another  river  to  Xcno^ihon. 

I  Had  he  seen  this  large  inland  sea,  he  would  probably  have  mentioned  it. 


94 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON 


[CUAP     III 


We  have  not,  I  conceire,  sufficient  data  in  Xenophon's  narratiTo  to  iden- 
tify with  any  degree  of  certainty  his  route  after  crogsiiig  the  Euphrates 
"We  know  that  about  twenty  parasangs  from  that  river  the  Greeks  encamped 
near  a  hot  spring,  and  this  spring  might  bo  lecogniEed  in  one  of  the  many 
which  abound  in  the  country.  It  is  most  probable  that  the  Greeks  took 
the  road  sttll  used  by  caravans  through  the  plains  of  Hinnis  and  Hassan- 
Kalah,  as  ollering  the  feM'est  difliculties.  But  what  rivers  arc  we  to  iden- 
tify with  the  Phosis  and  Haqmsus,  the  distance  between  tho  Euphrates 
and  Phasis  being  seventy  parasangs,  and  between  the  Phasia  and  Harpasus 
ninety-five,  and  the  Harpasus  being  the  larger  of  the  two  rivers?  I  can- 
not admit  that  the  Greeks  turned  to  the  west,  and  passed  near  the  site  of 
the  modem  Erzeroom.  There  are  no  rivers  in  that  direction  to  answer 
the  description  of  Xenophon.  Moreover,  the  Greeks  came  to  the  high 
mountain,  and  beheld  the  sea  for  the  first  time,  at  the  distance  of  thirty- 
two  parasangs  from  Trebizond.  Had  they  taken  either  of  the  three  modern 
roads  from  Erzeroom  to  the  coast,  ond  there  are  no  others,  they  must  have 
seea  tho  Euxinc  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Trebizond,  certainly  not  more 
than  six  or  eight  parasangs  from  that  city.  I  am  on  the  whole  inclined 
to  believe,  that  either  the  Greeks  took  a  very  tortuous  course  after  leaving 
the  Euphrates,  making  daily  but  little  actual  progress  towards  the  great 
end  of  their  arduous  journey,  the  sea  coast,  or  that  there  is  a  considerable 
error  m  the  amount  of  parasangs  given  by  Xenophon  ;  that  the  Harpasus 
must  be  the  Tcherouk,  and  the  Phasis  either  the  Araxeaor  the  Kwr  ;*  and 
that  Mount  Thcches,  the  holy  mountain  from  which  the  Greeks  beheld 
the  sea,  was  between  Batoun  and  Trebizond,  the  army  having  followed  the 
valley  of  the  Tcherouk,  but  leaving  it  before  reaching  the  site  of  the  mod- 
ern port  on  the  Black  Sea 

*  In  no  way,  however,  would  a  direct  line  or  inarch  between  lliese  two  rivcra,  nor 
between  any  odier  two  rivers  which  can  possibly  uriswcr  to  Ins  dcscripiion,  lally 
with  the  dislances  given  by  Xenopbon 


Mraul,  from  tbe  Nartb 


06 


NmEVEU  AND  BABYLON. 


[ClIAP.    IV. 


to  retain  possession  of  Ihe  spot,  and  to  prevent  interference  on  the  part  of 
others,  than  to  carry  on  extensive  operations.  Toma  Shishman,  or  "  the 
Fat,"  was  still  the  overseer  of  the  workmen,  and  accompanied  me  on  my 
lirat  visit  to  the  ruins 

But  httlc  clmnge  had  taken  place  in  the  great  mound  since  I  had  last 
i«een  it.  It  was  yellow  atid  bare,  us  it  always  is  at  this  time  of  the  year. 
Heaps  of  earth  marked  the  site  of  forincir  excavations,  the  chambers  first 
discovered  having  been  again  completely  buried  with  rubbish.  Of  the 
sculptured  walls  laid  bare  two  years  before  no  traces  now  remained.  The 
ironchea  dug  under  Mr.  Ross's  directions,  in  the  southefu  corner,  opposite 
the  town  of  Mosul,  were  slitl  open.  It  was  evident  at  a  glance  that  the 
chambers  he  had  entered  did  not,  as  he  had  been  led  to  suppose,  belong  to 
a  second  palace.  They  formed  part  of  the  same  preal  edifice  once  stand- 
ing on  this  angle  of  the  mound,  and  already  partly  explored.  The  style 
of  the  bas-reliefs,  and  of  the  inscriptions,  marked  them  at  once  as  of 
the  same  epoch  as  those  previously  discovered.  They  belonged  to  the 
.•same  king,  and  also  recorded  his  wars  and  his  triumphs.  The  same  great 
lire,  too,  which  had  raged  in  the  rest  of  the  building,  turning  the  sculp- 
tured panelling  to  lime,  defacing  the  ancient  records,  ami  reducnig  the  ed- 
ifice to  a  heap  of  ashes  and  rubbish,  had  done  its  work  here.  But  four  or 
five  feet  remaiued  of  the  bas-reliefs  once  covering  the  walls. of  sun-dried 
bricks  to  the  height  of  eight  or  nine,  and  even  these  fragments  were  gen- 
erally loo  much  defaced  to  admit  of  minute  description. 

The  walls  of  two  chambers  had  been  laid  bare.  In  one,*  the  lower  part 
of  a  long  series  of  sculptures  was  still  partly  pre8erve<i.  but  the  upper  had 


K 


fvVv 


my 


E 


i-'i-V-t-S-^itf^ 


Ciullo  nonr  >  Rtvcr  or  Manh  iKuu}iinjik) 


•  No.  LI.    Plan  J. 


Chap.  I?.]  tctsfTvasa  DucoTs^xa  57 

been  completeif  destroyed,  the  very  alabuter  itielf  having  diaappeared. 
The  bas-relie&  recorded  the  sobjeotioa  by  the  Assyrian  king  of  a  nation  in-  ^ 

habiting  the  banks  of  a  river.  The  captive  women  are  distinguished  by 
Mng  embroidered  nbes  fringed  with  tassels,  and  the  oaatlea  have  a  pecul- 
iar wedge-shaped  ornament  on  the  walls.  The  towns  probably  stood  in 
the  midst  of  marriies,  as  they  appear  to  be  siirroanded  by  canes  or  reeds, 
as  well  as  by  groves  of  palm  trees.     The  Assyrians  having  captured  the  ^• 

Strang  places  by  escalade,  carried  the  inhabitants  into  captivity,  and  drove 
aNray  cattle,  camels,  and  carts  drawn  by  oxen.  Some  of  the  men  bear 
large  baskets  of  osier  work,  and  the  women  vases  or  cauldrons.  The  king, 
atfuiding  in  his  chariot,  attended  by  his  warriors,  and  preceded  by  an  eu- 
nuch registering  the  number  of  prisoners  and  the  amount  of  the  spoil,  ni 
eeives  the  conquered  chiefs.     Not  a  vestige  of  inscription  remains  to  re-  * 

cord  the  name  of  the  vanquished  people ;  but  we  may  conjecture,  fiom  the 
river  and  the  palm  trees,  that  they  inhabited  some  district  in  southern 
llesopotamia.  They  were,  probably,  one  of  the  numerous  Arab  tribes  who 
lived  in  the  marshes  formed  by  the  Eujdirates  and  Tigris,  and  took  advant- 
age, as  their  descendants  do  to  this  day,  of  their  almost  inaccessible  posi- 
tion in  the  midst  of  vast  swamps  to  be  in  continual  rebellion  against  the 
supreme  govemment.  Many  of  these  tribes,  it  will  hereafter  be  seen,  are 
mentioned  amongst  the  southern  conquests  of  the  king  who  built  the  pal- 
aee.  In  the  southern  wall  of  this  chamber  was  a  doorway  formed  by  plain, 
upright  slabs  of  a  close-grained  magnesian  limestone,  almost  as  hard  as 
flint :  between  them  were  two  small,  crouching  lions,  in  the  usual  alabas- 
ter. This  entrance  led  into  a  further  room,  of  which  only  a  small  pari 
had  been  explored  *  The  walls  were  panelled  with  unsculptured  slabs  of 
the  same  compact  limestone. 

The  sculptured  remains  hitherto  discoverod  in  the  mound  of  Kouyunjik 
had  been  reached  by  digging  down  to  them  from  the  surface,  and  then 
removing  the  rubbish.  After  the  departure  of  Mr.  Ross,  the  accumulation 
of  earth  above  the  ruins  had  become  so  ,pon8iderable,  frequently  exceeding 
thirty  feet,  that  the  workmen,  to  avoid  the  labor  of  clearing  it  away,  be- 
gan to  tunnel  along  the  walls,  sinking  shads  at  intervals  to  admit  light  and 
air.  The  hardness  of  the  soil,  mixed  with  pottery,  bricks,  and  remains  of 
buildings  raised  at  various  times  over  the  buried  ruins  of  the  Assyrian  pal' 
ace,  rendered  this  process  easy  and  safe  with  ordinary  eare  and  precaution 
The  subterraneous  passages  were  narrow,  and  were  propped  up  when  nee 
essary  either  by  leaving  columns  of  earth,  as  in  mines,  or  by  wooden  beams, 
These  long  galleries,  dimly  lighted,  lined  with  the  remains  of  ancient  art, 
broken  urns  projecting  from  the  crumbling  sides,  and  the  wild  Arab  and 
hardy  Nestorian  wandering  through  their  intricacies,  or  working  in  their 
dark  recesses,  were  singularly  picturesque. 

Toma  Shishman  had  removed  the  workmen  from  the  southern  corner 
of  the  mound,  where  the  sculptures  were  much  injured,  and  had  opened 

•  No.  LIII.    Han  I. 


58  NINEVSH  AND  BABYLON.  [ChaP.  IV. 

tunnels  in  a  part  ol'  the  building  previously  explored,  commencing  where  I 
had  left  off  on  my  departure  from  Mosul.*  I  descended  into  the  vaulted 
passages  by  an  inclined  way,  through  which  the  workmen  issued  from  be- 
neath to  throw  away  the  rubbish  dug  out  from  the  ruins.  At  the  bottom 
I  found  myself  before  a  wall  forming  the  southern  side  of  the  great  Hall, 
discovered,  though  only  partly  explored,  during  my  former  researches.f 
The  sculptures,  faintly  seen  through  the  gloom,  were  still  well  enough  pre- 
served to  give  a  complete  history  of  the  subject  represented,  although,  with 
the  rest  of  the  bas-reliefs  of  Kouyunjik,  the  fire  had  nearly  turned  them  to 
lime,  and  had  cracked  them  into  a  thousand  pieces.  The  faces  of  the 
slabs  had  been  entirely  covered  with  figures,  varying  from  three  inches  to 
one  foot  in  height,  carefully  finished,  and  designed  with  great  spirit. 

In  this  series  of  bas-reliefs  the  history  of  an  Assyrian  conquest  was  more 
fully  portrayed  than  in  any  other  yet  discovered,  from  the  going  out  of  the 
monarch  to  battle,  to  his  triumphal  return  after  a  complete  victory.  The 
first  part  of  the  subject  has  already  been  described  in  my  former  work.t 
The  king,  accompanied  by  his  chariots  and  horsemen,  and  leaving  his  cap- 
ital in  the  Assyrian  plains,  passed  through  a  mountainous  and  wooded 
district.^  He  does  not  appear  to  have  been  delayed  by  the  siege  of  many 
towns  or  castles,  but  to  have  carried  the  war  at  once  into  the  high  coun- 
try. His  troops,  cavalry  and  infantry,  are  represented  in  close  combat  with 
their  enemies,  pursuing  them  over  hills  and  through  valleys,  beside  streams, 
and  in  the  midst  of  vineyards.  The  Assyrian  horsemen  are  armed  with 
the  spear  and  the  bow,  using  both  weapons  whilst  at  full  speed :  their  op- 
ponents seem  to  be  all  archers.  The  vanquished  turn  to  ask  for  quarter ; 
or,  wounded,  fall  under  the  feet  of  the  advancing  horses,  raising  their  hands 
imploringly  to  ward  off  the  impending  deathblow.  The  triumph  follows. 
The  king  standing  in  his  chariot,  beneath  the  royal  parasol,  followed  by 
long  lines  of  dismounted  warriors  leading  richly  caparisoned  horses,  and 
by  foot  soldiers  variously  armed  and  accoutred,  is  receiving  the  captives 
and  spoil  taken  from  the  conquered  people.  First  approach  the  victorious 
warriors,  throwing  the  heads  of  the  slain  into  heaps  before  the  registering 
officers.  They  are  followed  by  others  leading,  and  urging  onwards  with 
staves,  the  prisoners — -men  chained  together,  or  bound  singly  in  fetters,  and 
women,  some  on  foot,  carrj'ing  their  children  on  their  shoulders,  and  lead- 
ing them  by  the  hand,  others  riding  on  mules.     The  procession  is  finished 

*  At  No.  VI.  same  plan.  The  chambers  marked  with  letters  in  the  Plan  of  Kou- 
yunjik in  the  2d  vol.  of  "  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,"  are  distinguished,  for  conven- 
ience of  general  reference,  by  numbers  in  Plan  I.  of  this  work,  which  includes  all 
those  excavated  during  the  first  expedition,  as  well  as  those  discovered  during  the 
second :  the  letters  are,  however,  also  inserted. 

t  No.  VI.    Plan  I. 

t  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  ii.  p.  134. 

^  The  long  lines  of  variously  armed  troops,  described  in  my  former  worlc  (vol.  ii. 
p.  134)  as  covering  several  slabs  from  top  to  bottom,  form  the  army  of  the  king 
marching  to  this  campaign.    Monuments  of  Nineveh,  Plate  81. 


by  asses,  mules,  and  flocks  of  sheep.  As  on  tho  bas-reliefi  unoovercd  by 
Mr.  Ross,  there  is  uolbrtuaately  no  inacriptiou  by  which  the  uiiiiie  of  the 
conquered  people  can  be  determined.  We  are  left  to  conjecture  the  site 
of  the  country  they  inhabited  from  its  natural  features,  rudely  portrayed 
in  the  ba»-reliefs,  or  from  notices  that  may  hereafter — on  a  better  acquaint- 
ance with  the  cuneiform  character — be  found  in  the  great  inscriptions  on 
the  bulla  containing  the  history  of  the  wars  of  the  Assyrian  kin^.  The 
mountaijts,  valleys,  and  streams,  the  vinos  and  dwarf  oaks,  probably  indi- 
cate a  region  north  of  Assyria,  in  Armenia,  Media,  or  Kurdistan,  countries 
we  know  to  have  been  invaded  by  the  royal  builder  of  the  palace.  The 
dress  of  the  men  consists  of  a  short  tuuic  ;  that  of  the  women,  of  a  shirt 
falling  to  the  ankles,  and  cut  low  in  front  of  the  neck* 

In  the  side  of  the  hall  sculptured  with  these  bas-reliefs  was  a  wide  por- 
tal, formed  by  a  pair  of  gigantic  human-headed  bulls. t  They  had  suHcred, 
like  all  those  previously  discovered,  from  the  fire,  and  the  upper  part,  the 
wrings  and  human  head,  had  been  complclely  destroyed.  The  lower  half 
had,  however,  escaped,  and  the  inscriptions  were  consequently  nearly  en- 
tire. Joined  to  the  forepart  of  the  bulls  were  four  small  figures,  two  on 
each  side,  and  one  above  the  other.  They  had  long  hair,  falling  in  large  and 
massive  curls  on  their  shoulders,  wore  short  tunics  dcK^endiiig  to  tho  knee, 
and  held  a  pole  topped  by  a  kind  of  cone  in  one  hand,  raising  the  other  as 
in  act  of  adoration. t  At  right  angles  with  the  slabs  bearing  these  sculp- 
tures were  colossal  figures  carrying  the  oft-repealed  cone  and  basket. 

In  this  entrance  a  well,  cut  through  the  large  pavement  slab  between 
the  bulls,  was  afterwards  discovered.  It  contained  broken  pottery,  not  one 
vase  having  been  taken  out  whole,  apparently  human  remains,  and  some 
fragments  of  calcined  sculptured  alabaster,  evidently  detached  from  the 
bas-reliefs  on  the  walls.  It  is  doubtful  whether  this  well  was  sunk  ader 
the  Assyrian  ruins  had  been  burled,  or  whether  it  had  been  from  the  earliest 
times  a  place  of  deposit  for  the  dead.  The  remains  of  bas-reliefs  found  in 
it,  at  a  considerable  depth,  show  that  it  must  have  been  filled  up  after  the 
destruction  of  the  Assyrian  palace ;  and,  as  no  such  wells  exist  in  similar  en- 
trances, I  am  inclined  to  believe  that,  tike  many  others  discovered  during  the 
excavations,  it  had  been  made  by  those  who  built  on  the  mound  above  the 
ancient  ruins.  When  sinking  the  shaft  they  probably  met  with  the  pave- 
ment slab,  and  cut  through  it.  It  appears  to  have  been  afterwards  choked 
by  the  falling  in  of  the  rubbish  through  which  it  had  been  carried,  and 
hence  the  fragments  of  sculptured  alabaster  mixed  with  the  broken  pot- 
tery. Being  unable  to  support  its  crumbling  sides,  I  was  obliged  to  abandon 
the  attempt  after  digging  to  the  depth  of  al>out  fifteen  feet. 

•  Two  plates  from  these  spirited  sculptures  are  given  in  the  Sd  series  of  the 
Monuments  of  Nineveh,  Plates  37,  IM.  They  represent  the  baCllc,  and  part  of  the 
triumph  t  Enlranoe  k.     No.  VI.     Plan  I. 

}  One  such  figure  has  been  piaecd  in  the  British  Muaetitn,  and  see  2d  scries  of  the 
Monuments  of  Nineveh,  Plate  6, 


go  NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON.  [ChaF.  IV. 

A  small  doorway  to  the  right  of  the  portal  formed  by  the  winged  bulls, 
led  into  a  further  chamber,*  in  which  an  entrance  had  been  found  into  a 
third  room.t  whose  walls  had  been  completely  uncovered.  Its  dimensions 
were  26  feet  by  23,  and  it  had  but  this  one  outlet,  flanked  on  either  side 
by  two  colossal  figures,  whose  lower  extremities  alone  remained,  the  upper 
part  of  the  slabs  having  been  destroyed  :  one  appeared  to  have  been  eagle- 
headed,  with  the  body  of  a  man,  and  the  other  a  monster,  with  human 
head  and  the  feet  of  a  lion.  The  bas-reliefs  round  the  chamber  repre- 
sented the  siege  of  a  castle  standing  on  an  artificial  mound,  surrounded  at 
its  base  by  houses.  The  besieged  defended  themselves  on  the  walls  and 
turrets  with  bows,  spears,  and  stones.  The  Assyrian  army  was  composed 
of  spearmen,  slingers,  and  bowmen,  some  of  whom  had  already  gained  the 
housetops.  Male  and  female  captives  had  been  taken  and  heads  cut  oiT; 
the  victorious  warriors  according  to  custom,  and  probably  to  claim  a  re- 
ward,J  bringing  them  to  the  registraia.  The  led  horses  and  body-guard  of 
the  king  was  still  preserved,  but  that  part  of  the  bas-relief  containing  the 
monarch  himself,  probably  standing  in  his  chariot,  had  been  destroyed.  In 
the  back  ground  were  wooded  mountains ;  vines  and  other  trees  formed  a 
distinct  band  in  the  middle  of  the  slabs;  and  a  river  ran  at  the  foot  of  the 
mound.  The  dress  of  the  male  prisoners  consisted  either  of  a  long  robe 
falling  to  the  ankles,  or  of  a  tunic  reaching  to  the  knees,  over  which  was 
thrown  an  outer  garment,  apparently  made  of  the  skins  of  animals,  and 
they  wore  greaves  laced  up  in  front.  The  women  were  clothed  in  a  robe 
descending  to  the  feet,  with  an  outer  fringed  garment  thrown  over  the  shoul- 
ders ;  a  kind  of  hood  or  veil  covered  the  back  of  the  head,  and  fell  over  the 
neck.  Above  the  castle  was  the  fragment  of  an  inscription  in  two  lines, 
containing  the  name  of  the  city,  of  which  unfortunately  the  first  character 
is  wanting.  It  reads :  "  The  city  of  .  .  .  alammo  I  attacked  and  cap- 
tured ;  I  carried  away  its  spoil."  No  name,  however,  corresponding  with 
it  has  yet  been  found  in  the  royal  annals,  and  we  can  only  infer,  from  the 
nature  of  the  country  represented,  that  the  place  was  in  a  mountainous  dis- 
trict to  the  north  of  Assyria.§  It  is  remarkable  that  in  this  chamber, 
as  in  others  afterwards  explored,  some  of  the  slabs  (those  adjoining  the  en- 
trance) had  been  purposely  defaced,  every  vestige  of  sculpture  having  been 
carefully  removed  by  a  sharp  instrument. 

Returning  to  the  great  hall,  I  found  that  a  third  outlet  had  been  discover- 
ed, opening,  however,  to  the  west.  This  entrance  had  been  guarded  by  six  co- 
lossal figures,  three  on  each  side.  The  upper  part  of  all  of  them  had  been  de- 
stroyed.   They  appear  to  have  been  eagle-headed  and  lion-headed  monsters.ll 

*  No.  XIII.     Plan  I.  t  No.  XIV.  same  plan. 

X  It  is  still  the  custom  in  Persia,  and  was  so  until  lately  in  Turkey,  for  soldiers  to 
bring  the  heads  of  the  slain  to  their  officers  after  a  battle,  and  to  claim  a  small  pecun- 
iary reward. 

i)  As  much  of  the  bas-reliefs  as  could  be  moved  is  now  in  the  British  Museum ;  see 
also  2d  series  of  the  Monuments  of  Nineveh,  Plate  39. 

II  Entrance  i.    No.  VI.    Plan  I. 


Chap.  IV.]  •cin.PTURES  describbd.  qi 

This  doorway  led  into  a  narrow  passage,  one  aide  of  which  had  alone 
been  excavated ;  on  it  was  represented  the  siege  of  a  walled  city,  divided 
into  two  parts  by  a  river.  One  half  of  the  place  had  been  captured  by  the 
Assyrians,  who  had  gained  possession  of  the  towers  and  battlements,  but 
that  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  stream  was  still  defended  by  slingers  and 
bowmen.  Against  its  walls  had  been  thrown  banks  or  mounds,  built  of 
stones,  bricks,  and  branches  of  trees.*  The  battering-rams,  covered  with 
skins  or  hides  looped  together,  had  been  rolled  up  these  inclined  ways,  and 
had  already  made  a  breach  in  the  fortifications.  Archers  and  spearmen 
were  hurrying  to  the  assault,  whilst  others  were  driving  off  the  captives, 
and  carrying  away  the  idols  of  the  enemy.  The  dress  of  the  male  piison- 
ers  consisted  of  a  plain  under-shirt,  an  upper  garment  falling  below  the 
knees,  divided  in  the  front  and  buttoned  at  the  neck,  and  laced  greaves. 
Their  hair  and  beards  were  shorter  and  less  elaborately  curled  than  those 
of  the  Assyrians.  The  women  were  distinguished  by  high  rounded  turbans, 
ornamented  with  plaits  or  folds.  A  veil  fell  from  the  back  of  this  head- 
dress over  the  shouldora.t  No  inscription  remained  to  record  the  name  of 
the  vanquished  nation.  Their  castles  stood  in  a  wooded  and  mountainous 
country,  and  their  peculiar  costume,  and  the  river  passing  through  the  cen- 
tre of  their  chief  city,  may  help  hereafter  to  identify  them. 

The  opposite  side  of  this  narrow  chamber,  or  passage,  was  shortly  after- 
wards uncovered.  The  bas-reliefs  on  its  walls  represented  the  king  in  his 
chariot,  preceded  and  followed  by  his  warriors.  The  only  remarkable  feat- 
ure in  the  sculptures  was  the  highly  decorated  trappings  of  the  hones, 
whose  bits  were  in  the  ibrm  of  a  horse  at  full  speed. 

Such  were  the  discoveries  that  had  been  made  during  my  absence.  There 
could  be  no  doubt  whatever  that  all  the  chambers  hitherto  excavated  be- 
longed to  one  great  edifice,  built  by  one  and  the  same  king.  I  have  already 
shown  how  the  bas-reliefs  of  Kouyunjik  didbred  from  those  of  the  older  pal- 
aces of  Nimroud,  but  closely  resembled  those  of  Khorsabad  in  the  general 
treatment,  in  the  costumes  of  the  Assyrian  warriors,  as  well  as  of  the  na- 
tions with  whom  they  warred,  and  in  the  character  of  the  ornaments,  in- 
scriptions, and  details.  Those  newly  uncovered  were,  in  all  these  respects, 
like  the  bas-reliefs  found  before  my  departure,  and  upon  which  I  had  ven- 
tured to  form  an  opinion  as  to  the  respective  antiquity  and  origin  of  the  va- 
rious ruins  hitherto  explored  in  Assyria.  The  bas-reliefs  of  Nimroud,  the 
reader  may  remember,  were  divided  into  two  bands  or  friezes  by  inscrip- 
tions ;  the  subject  being  frequently  confined  to  one  tablet,  or  slab,  and  ar- 

*  For  an  account  of  these  mounds  represented  in  the  Assyrian  sculptures,  and  the 
manner  in  which  they  illustrate  various  passages  in  Scripture,  see  my  Nineveh  and 
its  Remains,  vol.  ii.  p.  367.  and  note. 

t  Such  is  the  costume  of  the  women  in  ships  in  a  bas-relief  discovered  during  my 
former  researches  (see  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  ii.  p.  129.  and  Monuments  of 
Nineveh,  Plate  71.),  and  which,  I  have  conjectured,  may  represent  the  capture  of 
Tyre  or  Sidon. 


62 


NINEVBB  AND  BA.BYLON. 


[Chap.  IV. 


ranged  with  some  attempt  at  composition,  bo  as  to  form  a  separate  picture. 
AtKouyunjik  the  four  walls  of  a  chamber  were  generally  occupied  by  one 
serieB  of  Bculptures,  representing  a  consecutive  history,  uniulerrupleJ  by  in- 
scriptions, or  by  the  divisions  in  the  alabaster  panelling.  Figures,  smaller 
in  size  than  those  ofNimroud,  covered  from  top  to  bottom  the  lace  of  slabs, 
eight  or  nine  feet  high,  and  sometimes  of  equal  breadth. 

The  sculptor  could  thus  introduce  more  action,  and  far  more  detail,  into 
his  picture.  He  aimed  even  at  conveying,  by  rude  representations  of  tree*, 
valleys,  mountains,  and  rivers,  a  general  idea  of  the  natural  features  of  the 
country  in  which  the  events  recorded  look  place.  A  chamber  thus  goner- 
ally  contained  the  whole  story  of  a  particuJar  war,  from  the  going  out  of 
the  king  lo  his  triumphal  return.  These  pictures,  including  a  kind  of  plan 
of  the  campaign,  add  eousiderably  to  the  interest  of  the  monuments,  and 
allow  us  to  restore  much  of  the  history  of  the  period.  They  will  probably 
also  enable  us  to  identify  the  sculptured  records  with  the  descriptive  ac- 
counts contained  in  the  great  inscriptions  carved  ujionthe  bulls,  at  the  va- 
rious entrances  to  the  palace,  and  embracing  a  general  chronicle  of  the 
reign  of  the  king.  At  Kouyunjik  there  were  probably  few  bas-reliefs,  par- 
ticularly those  containing  representations  of  castles  and  cities,  that  were 
not  accompanied  by  a  short  epigraph  or  label,  giving  the  name  of  the  con* 
(jtiered  king  and  country,  and  even  the  names  of  the  principal  prisoners,  es- 
pecially if  royal  personages.  Unfortunately  these  inscriptions  having  been 
usually  placed  on  the  upper  part  of  the  slabs,  which  has  very  rarely  escaped 
destruction,  but  few  of  them  remain.  These  remarks  should  bo  borne  in 
mind  to  enable  the  reader  to  understand  the  descriptions  of  the  excavated 
chambers  at  Kouyunjik,  which  will  be  given  in  the  following  pages  in  the 
order  that  they  were  discovered. 

I  lost  no  time  in  making  atrangemenla  for  continuing  the  excavations 
with  as  much  activity  as  the  funds  granted  to  the  Trustcea  of  the  British 
Museum  would  permit.  Toma  Shishman  was  placed  over  Kouyunjik  ; 
Mansour,  Buhnan  (the  marble  cutter),  and  Hannah  (the  carpenter),  again 
entered  my  service.  Ali  Rahal,  a  sheikh  of  the  Jebours,  who,  hearing  o( 
my  return,  had  hastened  to  Mosul!,  was  sent  to  the  desert  to  collect  such 
of  my  old  workmen  from  his  tribo  as  were  inclined  to  re-enter  my  service. 
He  was  appointed  "  sheikh  of  the  mound,"  and  duly  invested  with  the  cus- 
tomary robe  of  honor  on  the  occasion. 

The  accumulation  of  soil  above  the  ruins  was  so  great,  that  1  determined 
to  continue  the  tunnelling,  removing  only  as  much  earth  as  was  necessary 
to  show  the  sculptured  walls.  But  to  facilitate  the  labor  of  the  workmen, 
and  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  their  leaving  the  tunnels  to  empty  their  bask- 
ets, I  made  a  number  of  rude  triangles  and  wooden  pulleys,  by  which  the 
excavated  rubbish  could  be  raised  by  ropes  through  the  shafts,  sunk  at  in- 
tervals for  this  purpose,  as  well  as  to  admit  light  and  air.  One  or  two 
passages  then  sufTiced  for  the  workmen  to  descend  into  the  subterranean 
galleries. 


Chap.  IV] 


HVtrn  or  K0UTUNJ1K. 


63 


Many  of  tho  Nostorians  formerly  iii  my  service  aa  diggers,  having  also 
heard  of  my  iutended  return,  had  lefl  their  mountains,  and  had  joined  me 
a  day  or  two  after  my  arrival.  There  wero  Jebours  enough  in  the  im- 
mediate neighbourhood  of  tho  town  to  make  up  four  or  five  gangs  of  excava- 
(org,  and  I  placed  parties  at  once  in  the  galleries  already  opened,  in  difl'er- 
ent  parts  of  Kouyunjik  not  previously  explored,  and  at  a  high  mound  in  the 
northwest  walls,  forming  one  side  of  the  great  inclosuro  opposite  Mosul — a 
ruin  which  I  had  only  partially  examined  during  my  previous  visit.* 

During  the  spring  of  this  year  Colonel  Williams,  the  British  commissioner 
for  the  settlement  of  the  disputed  boundaries  between  Turkey  and  Persia, 
had  visited  Mosul  on  his  way  to  Baghdad,  and  had  kindly  permitted  Lieu- 
tenant Glascott,  R.N.,  the  engineer  of  tho  coramission,  to  make  a  careful 
survey  of  Kouyunjik.  His  plan,  into  which  the  excavations  subsequently 
made  have  been  introduced,  will  show  the  position  of  tho  palace  and  the 
general  form  of  the  mound. t  The  shape  of  this  great  ruin  is  very  irregu- 
lar ;  nearly  square  at  the  S.W.  corner,  it  narrows  almost  to  a  point  at  the 
N.E-  The  palace  occupies  the  southern  angle.  At  the  opposite,  or  north- 
em,  extremity  are  the  remains  of  the  village  of  Kouyunjik,  from  which  the 
mound  takes  its  name.l  From  this  spot  a  steep  road  leads  to  the  plain, 
farming  the  only  access  to  the  summit  of  the  rnouud  for  loaded  animals  or 
carts.  Nearly  midway  between  the  ruined  village  and  tho  excavations  is 
a  small  whitewashed  Mussulman  tomb,  surmounted  by  a  dome,  belonging 
to  some  sheikh,  or  holy  man,  whose  memory  and  name  have  long  passed 
away.  A  little  beyond  it,  to  the  south-west,  the  level  of  the  mound  rises 
above  that  of  any  oilier  part ;  in  consequence  probably  of  the  ruins  of  an- 
cient buildings,  belonging  to  a  period  preceding  the  Arab  conquest,  though 
still  erected  over  tho  older  Assyrian  edifices.  Beyond  it,  to  the  north,  the 
level  is  considerably  Mow  that  part  of  the  mound  which  covers  the  re- 
mains of  tho  excavated  palace.  To  the  south  of  the  tomb  the  platform 
suddenly  sinks,  leaving  a  semicircular  ridge,  resembling  an  amphitheatre. 
There  are  ravines  on  all  sides  of  Kouyunjik,  except  that  facing  the  Tigris. 
If  not  entirely  worn  by  the  winter  rains,  they  have,  undoubtedly,  been 
deepened  and  increased  by  them.  They  are  strewed  with  fragments  of 
pottery,  bricks,  and  sometimes  slone  and  burnt  alabaster,  whilst  the  falling 
earth  frequently  dii>clo5eB  in  their  sides  vast  masses  of  solid  brick  masonry, 
which  fall  in  when  undermined  by  the  rains.  Through  these  ravines  are 
carried  the  steep  and  narrow  pathways  leading  to  the  top  of  the  mound. 
As  they  reach  liir  into  the  ruins,  frequently  laying  bare  the  very  founda- 
tions of  the  artificial  platform  of  earth  on  which  the  edifices  were  erected, 
they  ailbrd  the  best  places  to  commence  experimental  tunnels. 

*  Sec  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  r.  p.  144.,  for  a  description  of  the  discoveries 
previonsly  made  in  this  mound. 

f  Sec  General  Plan  ufilif  mound  of  Kouyunjik,  in  corner  of  Plan  I. 

t  "The  little  sheep.'  Kcmyiiiijik  is,  however,  generally  known  to  the  .\rabs  by 
the  name  of  .^rmouslieeyah. 


64 


NIWETEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  IV 


The  KhauBer  winds  round  the  eastern  base  of  Kouyunjik,  and  leaving 
it  near  Ihe  angle  occupied  by  the  ruins  of  the  palace,  runs  in  a  direct  line  to 
the  TiprtB.  Although  a  Btnall  and  sluggijih  slreani,  it  has  worn  for  itself  a 
deep  bed,  and  is  only  i'ordable  near  the  inomid  immediately  below  the 
southern  corner,  where  the  direct  road  from  Mogjil  crosses  it,  and  at  the 
northern  extremity  where  a  flour  mill  is  turned  by  its  waters.  After  rain 
it  becomes  an  impetuous  torrent,  overflowing  its  banks,  and  carrj'iug  all 
before  it.  It  then  rises  very  suddenly,  and  as  suddenly  subsides.  Th« 
Tigris  now  flows  about  half  a  mile  from  the  mound,  but  once  undoubtedly 
washed  its  base.  Bctweeu  them  is  a  rich  alluvium  deposited  by  the  river 
during  its  gradual  retreat;  it  is  always  under  cultivation,  and  is  divided 
into  corn  fields,  and  melon  and  cucumt>or  beds.*  In  this  plain  stands  the 
small  modern  village  of  Konyunjik,  removed  for  convenience  from  its  an- 
cient situ  on  the  summit  of  the  mound.  Hound  the  9bol  of  the  platform 
are  thickly  scattered  fragments  of  jxiltery,  brick,  and  stone,  fallen  from  the 
ruins  above. 

In  Mosul  I  had  to  call  upon  the  governor,  and  renew  my  acquaintance 
with  the  principal  inhabitants,  whose  good  will  was  in  some  way  necessary 
to  the  pleasant,  if  not  successful,  prosecution  of  my  labors,  Klamil  Pasha 
had  been  lately  named  to  the  pashalic.  He  was  the  si.^lh  or  seventh  pasha 
who  had  been  appointed  since  I  hud  left,  for  it  is  one  of  the  banes  of  Turk- 
ish administration  that,  as  soon  us  an  ollicer  becomes  acipiaiiited  with  the 
country  he  is  sent  to  govern,  and  obtains  any  influence  over  its  inhabitants, 
he  is  recalled  to  make  room  fur  a  new  ruler.  Kiamil  had  been  ambassador 
at  Berlin,  and  had  visited  several  European  rourls.  His  manners  were 
eminently  courteous  and  polished  ;  his  intelligence,  and,  what  is  of  far 
more  imporlance  ia  a  Turkish  governor,  his  integrity,  were  acknowledged. 
His  principal  defects  were  great  inactivity  and  indolence,  and  au  unfortu- 
nate irritability  of  temper,  leading  him  to  do  foolish  and  mischievous  things, 
of  which  he  generally  soon  found  cause  to  repent.  He  offered  a  very  favor- 
able contrast  to  the  Pasha  who  received  me  on  my  visit  to  Mosul  in  1647, 
and  who,  by  the  way,  notwithstanding  a  decree  of  the  supreme  council 
condemning  him  to  death  for  his  numerous  misdeeds,  but  not  carried  intn 
execution  iu  consequence  of  the  misdirected  humanity  of  the  Sultan,  had 
been  recently  appointed  lu  a  comfortable  pashalic  iu  Asia  Minor,  far  from 
oousuls  and  other  troublesome  checks  upon  liis  tyranny  and  extortion.     Our 

*  The  river  TiRris  flmvs  in  this  pdrt  of  its  CKiirs*",  ami  mittl  it  reaches  Saimarrali. 
on  llic  fLinliiies  of  Uahylnnia,  through  a  Vhlley  varYing  from  one  tn  Iwo  miles  in  width, 
bounded  on  hotli  sides  liy  low  liiticstone  and  conghinreniti"  liilLs.  lis  bed  ha.?  Ijcen 
undergoing  a  continual  mid  regular  cliangc.  W'iien  it  reaclifs  ilie  liilis  <rii  one  side, 
it  ts  thrown  back  by  this  Icirrirr,  and  creeps  jfradually  to  the  opjiosiw  side,  leaving 
a  rich  alluvial  soil  quickly  uovereil  with  jungk'.  Tliis  process  it  has  Iwcn  repealing, 
backwards  and  forwards,  f<ir  I'ounlless  ages,  and  will  continue  la  repeat  us  long  as 
it  drains  the  great  hiifhlanda  (ifArmpnia.  At  Nimroiid  it  is  now  jjradually  returning 
to  the  base  of  the  mound,  which  it  deserted  sonic  three  thousuniJ  years  ago ;  b'jt 
centuries  must  elapse  before  it  can  work  its  way  that  far. 


fHAP.  ly.j 


SHEIKH  A.D1  RKVUrrSD. 


6S 


right  to  excavate  was  now  too  well  established  to  admit  n|  question,  and 
my  visit  to  the  Pasha  was  rather  one  of  friendship  than  of  duty.  1  hud 
known  him  at  the  capital,  where  ho  hold  a  high  pnst  in  the  council  of 
state,  and  at  Belgrade,  wiiea  governor  there  during  troulilous  times. 

Soon  after  niy  arrival,  my  old  friends  Sheikh  Ahd-iir-rahnmu,  of  the 
Abou  Salman,  and  Abd-r\ibbou,  chief  of  the  Jebouis,  rode  into  the  town  to 
see  me.  The  former  complained  bitterly  of  poverty  :  his  claims  upon  Mo- 
hammed Pasha,  although  recognised  by  the  government,  had  not  been 
I  paid,  and  by  the  new  system  of  local  administration  introduced  into  the 
pashaJic  since  my  departure,  his  old  pasture  grounds  near  Nimroud  had 
been  taken  from  his  tribe,  and  made  "  miri,"  or  public  property.  The 
Jebours,  under  Abd-rubbou,  were  encamping  in  the  desert  to  the  south 
of  Mosul.  He  olFered  to  accompany  me  to  Kalah  Sherghat,  or  to  any 
other  ruin  I  might  wish  to  examine,  and  a  silk  rube  cemented  our  former 
friendship. 

I  had  scarcely  settled  myself  in  the  town,  when  Cawal  Yusuf  came  in 
from  Bnadri,  with  a  party  of  Yezidi  Cawals,  to  invite  me,  on  the  part  of 
Hussein  Bey  and  Sheikh  Nasr,  to  the  annual  festival  at  Sheikh  Adi.  The 
invitation  was  too  earnest  to  be  refused,  nor  was  I  sorry  to  have  this  oc- 
casion of  meeting  the  principal  chiefs  of  the  sect  assembled  together,  of  ex- 
plaining to  them  what  had  occurred  at  Constantinople,  aud  of  ollcring  them 
a  few  words  of  advice  as  to  their  future  conduct.  The  JuIkuu  workmen, 
too,  had  not  yet  moved  their  tents  to  Nimroud  or  Mosul,  and  the  excava- 
tions had  consequently  not  been  actively  resumed. 

I  was  accompanied  in  this  visit  by  my  own  party,  willi  the  addition  of 
Mr.  Rassam,  the  vice-consul,  and  his  dragoman.  Wo  rode  tlie  lirst  day  to 
Baadri,  and  were  met  o«  the  road  by  Hussein  Bey  and  a  large  company 
of  Yezidi  horsemen.  Sheikh  Nasr  had  already  gone  to  the  tomb,  to  make 
ready  for  the  ceremonies.  The  young  chief  entertained  us  for  the  night, 
and  on  the  following  morning,  an  hour  after  sunrise,  we  left  the  village  for 
Sheikh  Adi.  At  Some  distauce  from  the  sacred  valley  we  were  met  by 
Sheikh  Nasr,  Pir  Sino,  the  Cawals,  the  priests,  and  the  chiefs.  They  con- 
ducted us  to  the  same  building  in  the  sacred  grove  that  I  had  occupied  on 
my  former  visit.  The  Cawals  assembled  around  us  and  welcomed  our 
coming  on  their  tambourines  niid  Hutes  ;  and  soon  about  us  was  formed 
one  of  those  singularly  beautiful  aud  picturesque  groups  which  1  have  at- 
tempted to  describe  in  my  previous  account  of  the  Yezidi  festival.* 

The  Yezidis  had  assembled  in  less  numbers  this  year  than  wheu  I  had 
last  met  them  in  the  valley.  Only  a  few  of  the  best  armed  of  the  people 
of  the  Sinjar  had  ventured  to  face  the  dangers  of  the  road  now  occupied  by 
the  Bedouins.  Abde  Agha  and  his  adherents  were  fully  occupied  in  de- 
fending their  villages  against  the  Arab  marauders,  who,  although  repulsed 
after  we  quitted  Semil,  were  still  hanging  about  the  district,  beul  upon  re- 
venge. The  Kochers,  and  the  tribes  of  Dereboun,  were  kept  away  by  the 
•  Nineveh  and  its  Kentains,  vol.  i.  ch.  ix. 
£ 


Chap.  IV.] 


sBBiKBrann 


67 


same  fears.  The  inhabitants  of  Khcrzon  and  Redwan  wore  hnrnsaed  by 
the  conscription.  Even  the  [leoplc  of  Baa^heikhah  and  Baazani  had  been 
■o  much  vexed  by  a  recent  visit  from  the  Pasha  that  they  had  no  heart  for 
festivities.  His  Excellency  not  fostering  feelings  of  the  most  friendly  na- 
ture towards  NamLk  Pasha,  the  now  commander-in-chief  of  Arabia,  who 
was  passing  through  Mosul  on  his  way  to  the  head-quarters  of  the  army  at 
Baghdad,  and  unwilling  to  entertain  him,  was  suddenly  taken  ill,  and  re- 
tired for  the  benefit  of  his  health  at  Baaahcikhah.  On  the  morning  after 
his  arrival  he  complained  that  the  asses  by  their  braying  during  the  night 
had  allowed  him  no  rest ;  and  the  asaes  wero  accordingly  peremptorily  ban- 
ished from  the  village.  The  dawn  of  the  next  day  was  announced,  to  the 
great  discomfort  of  his  Excellency,  who  had  no  interest  in  the  matter,  by 
the  cocks ;  and  tho  irregular  troops  who  formed  his  body-guard  were  imme- 
diately incited  to  a  general  slaughter  of  the  race.  The  third  night  hia  sleep 
was  disturbed  by  the  crying  of  the  children,  who,  with  their  mothers,  were 
at  once  locked  up,  for  the  rest  of  his  sojourn,  in  the  cellars.  On  the  fourth 
he  was  awoke  at  daybreak  by  the  chirping  of  sparrows,  and  every  gun  in 
the  village  was  ordered  to  be  brought  out  to  wage  a  war  of  oxtormination 
against  them.  But  on  the  fifth  morning  his  rest  was  sorely  broken  by  the 
flies,  and  the  enraged  Pasha  insisted  upon  their  instant  destruction.  The 
Kiayah,  who,  as  chief  of  the  village,  had  tho  task  of  carrjing  out  the  Gov- 
ernor's orders,  now  threw  himself  at  his  Excellency's  feet,  exclaiming, 
"  Your  Highness  has  seen  that  all  the  animals  here,  praise  be  to  tmJ,  obey 
our  Lord  the  Sultan ;  tho  infidel  flies  alone  are  rebellious  to  his  authority. 
I  am  a  man  of  low  degree  and  small  power,  and  can  do  nothing  against 
them  ;  it  now  behoves  a  great  Vizir  like  your  Highness  to  enforco  the  com- 
mands of  our  Lord  and  Master."  The  Pasha,  who  relished  a  joke,  forgave 
the  flies,  but  left  the  village. 

I  have  already  w  fully  described  the  general  nature  of  tho  annual  festi- 
val at  8heikh  Adi,  and  the  appearancu  of  tho  valley  on  that  occasion,  that 
I  shall  confine  myself  to  an  account  of  such  ceremonies  as  1  was  now  per- 
mitted to  witness  for  the  first  time. 

About  an  hour  after  sunset,  Cawal  Yusuf  summoned  Hormuzd  and  my- 
self, who  were  alone  allowed  to  bo  present,  to  tho  inner  yard,  or  sanctuary, 
of  the  Temple.  We  were  placed  in  a  room  from  the  windows  of  which  we 
could  see  all  that  took  place  in  the  court.  Tho  Cawals,  Sheikhs,  Fakirs' 
and  principal  chiefs  were  already  aasembled.  In  the  centre  of  the  court 
was  an  iron  lamp,  with  four  burners — a  simple  dish  with  four  lips  for  tho 
wicks,  supported  on  a  sharp  iron  rod  driven  into  the  ground.  Near  it  stood 
a  Fakir,  holding  in  one  hand  a  lighted  torch,  and  in  tho  other  a  largo  vea- 
sel  of  oil,  from  which  he,  from  time  to  time,  replenished  the  lamp,  loudly  in- 
voking Sheikh  Adi.  The  Cawals  stood  against  the  wall  on  one  side  of  the 
court,  ancj  commenced  a  slow  chant,  some  playing  on  the  flute,  others  on 
the  tambourine,  and  accompanying  the  measure  with  their  voices.  The 
Sheikhs  and  chiefs  now  formed  a  procession,  walking  two  by  two.     At 


68 


mNEVEB  AND  BABYLON. 


[CilAP.  IV. 


their  head  was  Sheikh  Jiudi.  He  wore  a  tall  shaggy  black  cap,  Ihe  hair  of 
which  hung  far  over  the  upper  part  of  his  face.  A  long  robe,  striped  with 
horizontal  stripes  of  black  atul  dark  red,  full  to  his  feet.  A  couiileiiance 
more  severe,  and  yet  more  iinposmg,  than  that  of  Sheikh  Jiudi  could  not 
well  be  pictured  by  the  most  fanciful  iniajriuation.  A  beard,  black  as  jet. 
waved  low  oa  hia  breast ;  his  dark  pierciug  eyes  glittered  through  ragged 
eyebrows,  like  bunting  coals  through  the  bars  of  a  grate.  The  color  of  his 
face  was  of  the  deepest  browu,  hia  teeth  wliilc  as  suow,  and  his  features, 
though  stem  beyond  measure,  singulnily  noble  and  well  formed.  It  was  a 
by  word  with  us  that  .Sheikh  Jiudi  had  never  been  seen  to  smile.  To  look 
at  him  was  to  feel  that  a  laugh  could  not  be  born  in  him.  As  he  moved, 
with  a  slow  and  solenui  step,  the  flickering  lamp  deepening  the  shadows  of 
his  solemn  and  nigged  countenance,  it  would  have  been  impossible  lo  con- 
ceive a  being  more  emmently  fitted  to  take  the  lead  m  ceremonies  conse- 
crated to  the  evil  one.  He  is  the  Pcesh-mimaz,  "  the  leader  of  prayer"  to 
the  Yezidi  sect.  Behind  him  were  two  venerable  sheikhs.  They  were 
followed  by  Hussein  Bey  and  Sheikh  Nasr,  and  the  other  chiefs  and  Sheikhf 


••'HijS.  V  ,_,.' 


w. 


v^-e,' 


^ 


Stieikli  NuKf,  lltjii  rrii'si  of  Ihe  Yetidii. 

came  after.     Their  long  robes  were  all  of  the  purest  white.    As  they  walked 
slowly  round,  sometimes  slopping,  then  resuming  their  measured  step,  they 


Chap.  TV.] 


D^ASnHBLT  OF  rBZIDIS. 


69 


chanted  prayers  in  glory  and  honor  of  the  Deity.  The  Cawals  accompanied 
the  chant  with  their  Hutcs,  beating  at  intervals  the  tambourines.  Round 
the  burning  lamp,  and  witiiin  the  circle  formed  by  the  procession,  danced 
the  Fakirs  in  their  black  dresses,  with  solemn  pace  timed  to  the  music, 
raising  and  swinging  to  and  fro  their  arms  after  Uie  fashion  of  Eastern 
dancers,  and  placing  themselves  in  attitudes  not  less  decorous  than  elegant. 
To  hymns  in  praise  of  the  Deity  succeeded  others  in  honor  of  Melek  Isa 
and  Sheikh  Adi.  The  chants  passed  into  quicker  strains,  the  tambourines 
were  beaten  more  frequently,  the  Fakirs  became  more  active  in  their  mo- 
tions, and  the  women  made  the  loud  tahlcl,  iho  ceremonies  ending  with 
that  extraordinary  scene  of  noise  and  excitement  that  I  have  attempted  to 
describe  in  relating  ray  first  visit.  When  the  prayers  were  ended,  those 
who  marched  in  procession  kissed,  as  they  passed  by,  the  right  side  of  the 
doorway  leading  into  the  temple,  where  a  serpent  is  figured  on  the  M'all ; 
but  not,  as  I  was  assured,  the  image  itself,  which  has  no  typical  or  other 
meaning,  according  to  Sheikh  N^r  and  Cawal  Yusuf  Hussein  Bey  then 
placing  himself  on  the  step  at  this  entrance,  received  the  homage  of  the 
.Sheikhs  and  elders,  each  touching  the  hand  of  the  young  chief  with  his 
own,  and  raising  it  to  his  lips.  All  present,  afterwards,  gave  one  another 
the  kiss  of  peace. 

The  ceremonies  having  thus  been  brought  to  a  close,  Hussein  Bey  and 
Sheikh  Nasr  came  to  me,  and  led  mo  into  the  inner  court.  Carj:K.'ts  had 
been  spread  at  the  doorway  of  the  temple  for  myself  and  the  two  chiefs  ; 
The  Sheikhs,  Cawals,  and  principal  people  of  the  sect,  sealed  themselves, 
or  rather  crouched,  against  the  walls.  By  tho  light  of  a  lamp,  dimly 
breaking  the  gloom  withiu  the  temple,  I  could  see  Sheikh  Jindi  unrobing. 
During  the  prayers,  priests  were  stationed  at  the  doorway,  and  none  were 
allowed  to  enter  except  a  iew  women  and  girls  :  the  wives  and  daughters 
of  sheikhs  and  cawals  had  free  access  to  the  building,  and  appeared  to  join 
ill  the  ceremonies.  The  Vice-Consul  and  Khwlja  Toma  were  now  admit- 
ted, and  took  their  places  with  us  at  the  upper  end  of  the  court.  Cawal 
Yusuf  was  then  called  upon  to  give  a  full  account  of  the  result  of  his  mis- 
sion to  Constantinople,  which  he  did  with  the  same  detail,  and  almost  in 
the  same  words,  that  he  had  used  so  frequently  during  our  journey.  After 
he  had  concluded.  I  endeavored  to  point  out  to  the  chiefs  that  by  tho  new 
concessions  made  to  them,  liberty  of  conscience  and  the  enjoyment  of  prop- 
erty were,  if  not  completely  secured,  at  least  fully  recognised  as  their  right, 
and  that  the  great  burdens  to  which  the  Yezidia  had  long  been  exposed 
were  abolished.  Their  children  could  no  longer  be  taken  as  slaves,  and 
the  Sultan  had  even  ordered  the  liberation  of  those  who  were  already  in 
bondage.*     Henceforward  none  would  suller  torture  or  death  for  their  re- 


•  During  my  subsequent  residence  in  Mosul,  T  was  alilf,  with  rlie  assistance  of 
Mr  Rassam,  the  Vice-C'onsii!,  wlio  always  i-xertiil  liiinHclt' rx-aiimsly  iiiid  difimti-rcst- 
edly  in  the  cause  of  hunianiiy,  to  lake  from  Ike  very  harem  vf  lh«^  '.'adi.  a  YexHii  girl, 
who  had  been  torn  from  licr  parents  some  time  before,  and  had  t>een  compelled  to 


70 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  IV. 


ligion's  Bake.  Whatever  theii  objections  to  the  conscription  and  military 
service,  it  was  but  reasonable  that,  as  subjects  of  the  iSultun,  and  as  exempt 
from  the  capitation  tax  paid  by  Christians,  they  should  be  placed  under 
the  same  laws  as  Mussulmans,  and  should  servo  the  state.  Such  practices 
and  food  as  were  repugnant  to  them,  the  Grand  Vizir  had  promised  should 
not  be  forced  upon  those  who  were  enrolled  in  the  regular  army.  For  the 
first  time  the  Yezidis  had  been  in  direct  communication  with  the  Sultan's 
ministers,  and  had  been  formally  recognised  as  or»e  of  the  sects  of  the  em- 
pire. They  were  to  justify  the  good  intcutions  of  the  Porte  towards  them 
by  proving  themselves  loyal  and  faithful  subjects.  But,  above  all,  they 
were  to  eschew  internal  quarrels,  and  to  maintain  peace  and  unity  among 
the  tribes,  by  which  means  alone  they  could  defy  their  enemies.  Their  in- 
dustry had  already  raised  them  above  their  Mohammedan  and  Christian 
neighbours,  and  now  that  additional  protection  was  extended  to  them  they 
might  fairly  hojie  to  be  wealthy  and  prosperous.  It  was  finally  agreed 
that  letters  of  thanks,  sealed  by  all  the  chiefs  of  the  Yezidis,  should  be 
sent  to  the  Grand  V'izir,  Reshid  Pasha,  for  the  reception  given  to  the  Yez- 
idi  deputation,  and  to  Sir  >:!tratfurd  Canning  lor  his  generous  intercession 
in  their  behalf. 

The  private  and  domestic  afiliirs  of  the  sect  were  then  discussed,  and  va- 
rious reforms  proposud.  The  mode  oi"  contracting  marriages  rctpiired  some 
change.  The  large  sums  of  money  demanded  by  parents  for  their  daugh- 
ters had  been  the  cause  that  many  girls  remained  uiunarried,  a  state  of 
things  rarely  found  in  Eastern  countries,  and  the  source  of  loud  complaints 
amongst  the  yomiger  members  of  the  community.  Rassara  suggested  that 
the  price  paid  to  the  father  should  be  reduced,  or  he  should  encourage  elope- 
ments, and  give  the  fugitives  the  benefit  of  his  protection.  The  proposed 
alternative  caused  much  merriment ;  but  one  of  the  old  Sheikhs  of  Baaz- 
ftui  at  once  consented  to  take  300  piasters  (about  2L  lOs,)  for  his  daugh- 
ter, instead  of  3000,  which  he  had  previously  asked.  This  led  to  several 
betrothals  on  tho  spot,  amidst  much  mirth  and  great  applause  on  the  part 
of  such  yoimg  Cawals  as  were  anxious  to  get  married.  It  was  nearly  mid- 
ni.^ht  before  the  assembly  broke  up.  We  then  went  into  the  outer  court, 
where  dances  wore  kept  up  until  late  in  the  morning,  by  the  light  of  torch- 
es, ail  the  young  men  and  women  joining  in  the  Debka. 

Soon  ai\er  sunrise  on  the  following  morning  the  Sheikha  and  Cawals  of- 
fered up  a  short  prayer  in  the  court  of  the  temple,  but  without  any  of  the 
ceremonies  of  the  previous  evening.  Some  prayed  in  the  sanctuary,  fre- 
quently kissing  tho  threshold  and  holy  places  within  the  building.  When 
they  had  ended  they  took  the  green  cloth  covering  from  the  tomb  of  Sheikh 
Adi,  and,  followed  by  tho  Cawals  playing  on  their  tambourines  and  ilutes, 
walked  with  it  round  the  outer  court.  The  people  flocked  about  them, 
and  reverently  carried  the  comer  of  the  draperj'  to  their  lips,  making  after- 

eruiirace  the  MoUanuiiedan  religion.  SucU  an  unusual  proceeding  had  a  great  effect 
in  the  town. 


73 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  17. 


wards  a  small  oflering  of  money.  After  the  cover  had  been  again  thrown 
over  the  tomb,  the  chiefs  and  priests  seated  themselves  round  the  inner 
court.  Tho  Fakirs  and  Sheikhs  es[»ecially  devoted  to  the  service  of  the 
sanctuary,  who  are  called  Kotcheks.  now  issued  from  the  kitchens  of  the 
temple  bearing  large  platters  of  smoking  harisn,*  which  they  placed  on 
the  ground.  The  company  collected  in  hungry  groups  round  the  messes, 
and  whilst  Ihey  were  eating,  the  Kotcheh  standing  by  called  tipon  them 
continually  in  a  loud  voice  to  partake  of  the  hospitality  of  Sheikh  Adi. 
After  the  empty  plates  had  been  removed,  a  collection  was  made  towards 
the  support  of  the  ternplc  and  tomb  of  tho  saint.  It  is  also  customary  for 
all  families  who  come  to  the  annual  festival  to  send  some  dish  as  an  oller- 
ing  to  Sheikh  Nasr.  He  merely  tastes  these  contributions  to  show  his  ac- 
ceptance of  them,  and  they  arc  then  shared  by  the  servants  of  the  sanc- 
tuary. 

These  ceremonies  occupied  us  until  nearly  mid-day  ;  wo  then  sat  by  the 
fountain  in  the  valley,  and  the  men  and  women  danced  before  us,  the  boys 
climbing  into  the  trees  and  hanging  on  the  boughs  to  see  the  dancers. 
Sugar,  dates,  and  raisins  were  afterwards  scrambled  amongst  the  children. 
The  men  scon  look  part  in  the  amusementB.  A  party  of  Kurds,  bringing 
grapes  from  the  mountains  to  sell  at  the  festival,  were  maliciou.sly  pointed 
out  as  good  objects  for  a  joke.  Tho  hint  was  no  sooner  given  than  they, 
their  donkeys,  and  their  grapes,  were  all  rolled  into  one  heap  under  a 
mountain  of  human  beings.  The  Kurds,  who  were  armed,  resisted  man- 
fully ;  and,  ignorant  of  our  intentions,  might  have  revenged  themselves 
on  their  assailants,  but  were  soon  restored  to  good  humour  when  they 
found  that  they  were  to  receive  ample  compensation  for  their  losses  and 
personal  injuries.  A  fat  bul/Lul,  a  peddling  dealer  in  nuts,  raisins,  and 
dates  from  Mosul,  was  then  thrown  with  all  his  stores  into  a  pond,  and 
was  well-nigh  drowned  by  the  crowd  of  boys  who  dived  into  the  reservoir 
on  the  chance  of  sharing  in  the  contents  of  his  panniers.  The  young  chief 
mingled  licarlily  in  the  sport,  stripping  oil' his  gay  robes  and  inciting  the 
people  to  mischief..  There  was  general  laughing  in  the  valley,  and  the 
Yczidis  will  long  remember  these  days  of  simple  merriment  and  hapjiinesB. 

In  the  afternoon  the  wives  and  daughters  of  the  chiefs  and  Cnwals  call- 
ed upon  me.  Tho  families  of  the  Cawals,  evidently  desrendcd  from  the 
samo  stock,  are  remarkable  for  the  beauty  both  of  the  men  and  women,  all 
of  whom  are  strikingly  like  one  another.  Their  complexion  is,  perhaps, 
too  dark,  but  their  features  are  regular  and  admirably  formed.    The  dresaes 


♦  \  mixliire  of  tiruised  wheat,  elioppcd  meat,  milk  and  cind.s,  boiled  into  a  thick 
IMllpy  nmntt,  over  wliirli  melted  butler  is  jxiureiL  It  is  a  favorite  disli  in  .Syriu  and 
Mewi|Hiiiiiiitii,  ntid  i.s  cooked  by  tiunilies  on  g^reat  festivals,  or  on  certain  days  of  the 
yfitr,  ill  ciMiHi-i|iiciii-e  nf  vows  made  during  sickness  or  in  travel.  On  these  occa.'iions 
It  U»  will  Miinul  til  frirnds,  and  dit^tributed  atiuincst  ttie  poor.  The  wrallhy  sprinkle 
It  with  cUiimiiKiii  ami  sugar,  and  it  is  then  agreealde  to  the  taste,  and  ptiilatable  enough. 
Il  is  told  curly  in  tttc  morning  in  the  bazars  of  many  Eastern  toutis. 


Chap.  IVJ 


CCRIODS  CERIMOtnr. 


78 


I 
I 


of  the  grirls  were  elcgranl,  and  as  rich  &a  tho  material  they  could  obtain 
•would  allow.  Some  wove  flowers  into  their  hair,  othere  encircled  their 
black  turbans  with  a  single  wreath  of  myrtle,  a  simple  and  elegant  orna- 
ment. They  all  wore  mi»ny  strings  of  coins,  amber,  coral,  aptile,  and  gla«8 
beads  round  their  necks,  and  some  had  the  black  skull  vnp  completely  cov- 
ered with  gold  and  silver  money.  A  kind  of  apron  of  grey  or  yelloMriah 
check,  like  a  Scotch  plaid,  tied  over  one  shoulder,  and  falling  in  front  over 
the  silk  dress,  is  a  peculiar  feature  in  the  costume  of  the  Yezidi  girls,  and 
of  some  Christians  lirotti  the  same  district.  Unmarried  women  have  the 
neck  bare,  the  married  conceal  it  with  a  white  kerchief,  which  passes  un- 
der tho  cbiu,  and  is  tied  on  the  top  of  the  head.  The  brightest  colors  are 
worn  by  the  girls,  but  the  matrons  are  usually  clothed  in  plain  white. 
The  females  of  the  Cawal  families  always  wear  black  turbans  and  skull 
caps.  Cawal  Yusuf,  to  show  how  the  Frank  ladies  he  ha<l  seen  at  Con- 
stantinople wore  honored  by  their  husbands,  made  his  young  wife  walk  arm 
in  arm  with  him  before  us,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  bystanders. 

At  night  the  same  religious  ceremonies  were  repeated  in  the  temple, 
and  I  was  allowed  to  sleep  in  the  room  overlooking  the  inner  court  from 
whence  1  had  witnessed  them  on  the  previous  evening.  After  all  had  re- 
tired to  rest,  the  Yezidi  Mullah  recited,  in  a  low  chatiling  tone,  a  religious 
history,  or  discourse,  consisting  of  the  adventures  and  U-uchings  of  a  certain 
Mirza  Mohammed.  He  stood  bt-lbre  the  bitrnitig  lamp,  and  around  him 
were  stretched  at  full  length  on  the  stone  pavement,  and  covered  by  their 
white  cloaks,  the  sleeping  Sheikhs  and  Cawals.  The  scene  was  singularly 
picturesque  and  impressive. 

Next  morning  I  visited,  with  Mr.  Rassam  and  Mr.  Cooper,  the  rock- 
sculptures  of  Bavian,  which  are  not  more  than  six  miles  from  tho  valley 
of  Sheikh  Adi  in  the  same  range  of  hills  ;  but  1  will  defer  a  description  of 
these  remarkable  monuments  until  I  come  to  relate  my  second  journey  to 
the  spot. 

The  Kaidi,  a  Yezidi  tribe,  perform  at  the  annual  festival,  the  following 
curious  ceremony,  said  to  be  of  great  antiquity,  which  we  witnessed  on  the 
day  of  our  departure  from  Sheikh  Adi.  They  ascend,  in  company  with 
all  those  who  have  fire-arms,  the  rocks  overhanging  the  temple,  and,  plac- 
ing small  oak  twigs  into  the  muzzles  ofthuir  gums,  discharge  ihem  into  the 
air.  After  having  kept  up  a  running  fire  fur  nearly  half  an  hour,  they  de- 
scend into  the  outer  court  and  again  let  oil'  their  pieces.  When  entering 
the  inner  court  they  go  through  a  miirlia!  dance,  before  Hussein  Bey,  who 
stands  on  the  steps  of  the  saucliiarj'  uniidet  the  assembled  priesU  and  elders. 
The  dance  being  ended,  a  bull,  presented  by  the  Yezidi  chief,  is  led  out 
from  the  temple.  The  Kaidi  rush  upon  the  animal  with  shouts,  and  seizing 
it,  lead  it  olTin  triumph  to  Sheikh  Mirza,  one  of  tho  heads  of  tho  sect,  from 
whom  they  also  receive  a  present,  generally  consisting  of  sheep.  Turing 
these  ceremonies  the  assembled  crowd  uf  men.  women,  and  chilrlren  form 
groups  on  the  steep  sides  of  the  ravine,  some  standing  on  the  well- wooded 


■. 


* 


74  NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON.  [ChaP.  IY. 

terraces,  others  on  projecting  rocks  and  ledges,  whilst  the  boys  clamber  into 
the  high  trees,  from  whence  they  can  obtain  a  view  of  the  proceedings. 
The  women  make  the  tahlel  without  ceasing,  and  the  valley  resounds  with 
the  deafening  noise.  The  long  white  garments  fluttering  amongst  the 
trees,  and  the  gay  costumes  of  some  of  the  groups,  produce  a  very  beaatifol 
and  novel  eflect. 

The  Kaidi  were  formerly  a  powerful  tribe,  sending  as  many  as  six  hund- 
red matchlock-men  to  the  great  feast.  They  have  been  greatly  reduced 
in  numbers  and  wealth  by  wars  and  oppression. 

Cawal  YuBuf  had  promised,  on  the  occasion  of  the  festival,  to  show  me 
the  sacred  book  of  the  Yezidis.  He  accordingly  brought  a  volume  to  me 
one  morning,  accompanied  by  the  secretary  of  Sheikh  Nasr,  the  only  Yezidi, 
as  far  as  I  am  aware,  who  could  read  it.  It  consisted  of  a  few  tattered 
leaves,  of  no  ancient  date,  containing  a  poetical  rhapsody  on  the  merits  and 
attributes  of  Sheikh  Adi,  who  is  identified  with  the  Deity  himself,  as  the 
origin  and  creator  of  all  things,  though  evidently  distinguished  from  the 
Eternal  Essence  by  being  represented  as  seeking  the  truth,  and  as  reach- 
ing through  it  the  highest  place,  which  he  declares  to  be  attainable  by  all 
those  who  like  him  shall  find  the  truth.  I  will,  however,  give  a  trans- 
lation of  this  singular  poem,  for  which  I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  Hormuzd 
Rassam.* 

The  Recitation  (oe  Poem)  of  Sheikh  Adi — Peace  be  upon  him  ! 

1.  My  understanding  surrounds  the  truth  of  things, 

2.  And  my  truth  is  mixed  up  in  me. 

3.  And  the  truth  of  my  descent  is  set  forth  by  itself  ;t 

4.  And  when  it  was  known  it  was  altogether  in  me.t 

5.  All  who  are  in  the  universe  are  under  me, 

6.  And  all  the  habitable  parts  and  the  deserts,^ 

7.  And  every  thing  created  is  under  me. II 

8.  .\nd  I  am  the  ruling  power  preceding  all  that  exists. 

9.  And  I  am  he  who  spake  a  true  saying. 

10.  And  I  am  the  just  judge,  and  the  ruler  of  the  earth  (Bat'ha). 

11.  And  I  am  he  whom  men  worship  in  my  glory, 

*  The  year  after  my  visit  to  Sheikh  Adi  this  poem  was  shown,  through  Mr.  C.  Ras- 
sam, to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Badger,  who  has  also  given  a  translation  of  it  in  the  first  volume 
of  his  "  Nestorians  and  their  Rituals."  The  translation  in  the  text  was,  however, 
made  before  Mr.  Badger's  work  was  pubUshed.  That  gentleman  is  mistaken  in  stat- 
ing that  "Sheikh  \d\  is  one  of  the  names  of  the  Deity  in  the  theology  of  the  Yezi- 
dis," and  "that  he  is  held  by  them  to  be  the  good  deity,"  for  in  the  fifty-eighth  verse 
the  Sheikh  is  expressly  made  to  say,  "  The  All-merciful  has  distinguished  me  w^ith 
names  ;"  and  the  Yezidis  always  admit  him  to  be  but  a  great  prophet,  or  VicegereiU 
of  the  Almighty. 

t  Or,  "  I  am  come  of  myself " 

t  According  to  Mr.  Badger,  "  I  have  not  known  evil  to  be  with  me,"  but  the  verse 
seems  to  have  reference  to  the  Sheikh's  self-existence. 

i)  Or,  "  And  who  are  in  distress  and  in  a  thicket." 

II  Or,  "And  in  every  good  action  I  take  delight." 


Qg^    jyi  pom  OF  SHEIKH  ADL  75 

15.  Coming  to  me  and  kissing  my  feet. 

13.  And  I  am  he  who  spread  over  the  heavens  their  height. 

14.  And  I  am  he  who  cried  in  the  beginning  (or  in  the  wilderness,  AI  bidaee). 

16.  And  I  am  the  Sheikh,  the  one  and  only  one. 

16.  And  I  am  he  who  of  myself  revealeth  all  things. 

17.  And  I  am  he  to  whom  came  the  book  of  glad  tidings, 

18.  From  my  Lord  who  burneth  (or  cleaveth)  the  mountains. 

19.  And  I  am  he  to  whom  all  created  men  come, 

20.  In  obedience  to  kiss  my  feet. 

21.  I  bring  forth  fruit  from  the  first  juice  of  early  youth, 

22.  By  my  presence,  and  turn  towards  me  my  disciples.* 

23.  And  before  his  light  the  darkness  of  the  morning  cleared  away. 

24.  I  guide  him  who  asketh  for  guidance. 

26.  And  I  am  he  that  caused  Adam  to  dwell  in  Paradise, 

26.  And  Nimrod  to  inhabit  a  hot  burning  (or  hell)  fire. 

27.  And  I  am  he  who  guided  Ahmed  the  Just, 

28.  And  led  him  into  my  path  and  way. 

29.  And  I  am  he  unto  whom  all  creatures 

30.  Come  unto  for  my  good  purposes  and  gifls.t 

31.  And  I  am  he  who  visited  all  the  heights  (or,  who  hath  all  m^esty), 

32.  And  goodness  and  charity  proceed  from  my  mercy. 

33.  And  I  am  he  who  made  all  hearts  to  fear 

34.  My  purpose,  and  they  magnified  the  power  and  majesty  of  my  awfulness.t 

35.  And  I  am  he  to  whom  the  destroying  lion  came, 

36.  Raging,  and  I  shouted  against  him  and  he  became  stone. 

37.  And  I  am  he  to  whom  the  serpent  came, 

38.  And  by  my  will  I  made  him  dust. 

39.  And  I  am  he  who  struck  the  rock  and  made  it  tremble, 

40.  And  made  to  burst  from  its  side  the  sweetest  of  waters. 

41.  And  I  am  he  who  sent  down  the  certain  truth. 

42.  From  me  (is)  the  book  that  comforteth  the  oppressed. 

43.  And  I  am  he  who  judged  justly ; 

44.  And  when  I  judged  it  was  my  right. 

46.  And  I  am  he  who  made  the  springs  to  give  water, 

46.  Sweeter  and  pleasanter  than  all  waters. 

47.  And  I  am  he  that  caused  it  to  appear  in  my  mercy, 

48.  And  by  my  power  I  called  it  the  pure  (or  the  wliite). 

49.  And  I  am  he  to  whom  the  Lord  of  Heaven  hath  said, 

60.  Thou  art  the  Just  Judge,  and  the  ruler  of  the  earth  (Bat'hai). 
51.  And  I  am  he  who  disclosed  some  of  my  wonders. 

62.  And  some  of  my  virtues  are  manifested  in  that  which  exists. 

63.  And  I  am  he  who  caused  the  mountains  to  bow, 

•  The  Rev.  Mr.  Badger  translates  the  21st  and  22d  verses  differently : — 
"  I  am  the  mouth,  the  moisture  of  whose  spittle 
Is  as  honey,  wherewith  I  constitute  my  confidants ;" 
referring  to  the  mode  of  initiation  amongst  Mussulman  dervishes,  who  drink  a  howl 
of  milk  into  which  a  Sheikh  has  spat, 
t  Or,  "  Mine  arc  all  created,  or  existing  things ; 

They  are  my  gifts,  and  for  my  purposes." 
t  "  And  I  am  he  that  entereth  the  heart  in  my  zeal, 

And  I  shine  through  the  power  of  my  awfulness  and  majesty." 

Mr.  Badger. 


76 


NINEVEQ  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  IV. 


64.  To  move  under  me,  and  at  my  will. 

65.  Anil  I  am  lie  before  whose  awful  majesty  the  wild  beasts  cried ; 
56.  Tlicy  tunieii  to  uit;  wor!»hippin|{,  and  kissed  niy  feet. 

67.  And  I  Bin  .Vtli  Es-shami  (iir,  of  DamusouB),  the  son  of  Moosafir.' 

68.  Verily  tlie  A)l-Mcrciful  has  aissigned  urilo  uie  rames, 

69.  The  heavenly  throne,  and  the  seat,  and  the  seven  (heavens)  and  the  eartht 

60.  In  the  secret  of  my  knowledge  there  is  no  God  hut  me. 

61.  These  things  are  subservient  to  my  power. 

62.  .\nd  fur  wliieh  state  do  you  deny  n»y  guidance.! 

63.  Oh  men  !  deny  me  not,  but  submit ; 

64.  In  the  day  of  Judgment  you  will  be  happy  in  meeting  0ie. 

65.  Who  dies  in  my  love  I  will  east  him 

66.  In  the  midst  uf  Parudisir  by  tuy  will  and  pleasure ; 

67.  But  he  who  dies  unniiiidfid  of  nie, 

68.  Will  be  thrown  mto  torture  in  misery  and  affliction.^ 
60.  I  say  thai  I  am  the  only  one  and  the  exalted  ; 

70.  I  create  ami  inako  rieh  those  whom  I  will. 

71.  Praise  be  to  myself,  and  ail  thinaa  are  by  my  will.  • 
78.  And  the.  imiverse  is  liyhled  by  some  of  my  gifts. 
73.  I  am  the  King  who  magnifies  hiinself ; 
7i.  And  all  tiie  riches  of  creation  are  at  my  bidding. 
76.  I  have  made  known  unlo  you,  O  people,  some  of  my  ways, 

76.  Who  desireth  me  niust  forsake  the  world. 

77.  And  I  ran  also  speak  the  tnie  .«ayiug. 

78.  And  the  garden  on  high  is  for  those  who  do  my  pleasure. 

79.  I  sought  the  truth,  and  bernme  a  confirtning  truth  ; 
SO.  .Xnd  by  the  like  truth  shall  they  possess  the  highest  place  like  me. 

This  was  the  only  written  work  that  I  was  ahle  to  obtain  from  the  Yez- 
ittis  ;  their  Cawals  repealed  Ecveral  prayers  and  hymns  to  me,  which  were 
purely  laudatory  of  the  Deity,  aiitl  unobjectionable  in  substance.  Numer- 
<iUB  occupations  during  the  remainder  of  my  residence  in  Assyria  prevented 
me  from  propeculing  my  inquiries  much  fnrther  on  this  Bubject.  Cawal 
Yusuf  iuf'oi-med  me  that  before  the  great  niassacrc  of  the  sect  by  the  Bey 
of  Rahwaudiiz  they  posgCBsed  many  books  which  were  lost  during  the  gen- 
eral panic,  or  destroyed  by  the  Kurds.  Ho  admitted  that  this  was  only  a 
fragmentary  composition,  and  by  no  means  "  the  Book"  which  contained 
the  theology  and  relitfious  laws  of  the  Yezidi.  He  even  hinted  thai  the 
great  work  did  still  exist,  and  I  am  by  no  means  certain  that  there  is  not 
a  copy  at  Baaaheikhah  or  Baazani.     The  account  given  by  the  Cawal 


•  There  is  some  doubt  about  this  passage ;  Mr.  Badger  has  translated  it, 
"  I  am  Adt  of  the  mark,  a  wanderer." 
Guided  by  the  spirit  of  th*i  r'assage,  I  prefer,  however,  Mr.  Rassanfs  version  which 
agrees  with  the  eonmion  tradition  amongst  the  Yezidis,  with  whom  Sheikii  Moosafir 
is  a  Venerated  personage.    His  mother  was  a  woman  of  Busrah.    He  was  oever 
married. 

\  "  And  my  seat  and  throne  are  the  wide-.spread  earth." — Mr,  Badger. 

t  Or.  "  O  mine  enemies,  why  do  you  deny  me  T" 

4  Or,  "  Shall  be  punished  with  my  contempt  and  rcKl." — Mr.  Badger. 


Chap.  IT.] 


CRKKD  OF  THB  TEZroiS. 


n 


I 


I 


seems  to  be  confirmed  by  the  alluaioa  m&de  in  the  above  poem  to  the 
"Book  of  Glad  Tidings,"  and  "the  Book  that  comlbrteth  the  oppressed," 
which  could  scarcely  have  been  inserted  fur  any  particular  purpose,  such 
as  to  deceive  their  Mohammedan  neighbours. 

I  have  given  in  an  appendix  three  chants  oi'  the  Yezidis,  which  were 
noted  down  by  M,  Lowy  as  Cawal  YusuC played  on  his  flute  when  with 
me  at  Constantinople. *  Two  of  Ihem  wore  not  without  originality  and 
melody. 

I  will  here  add  a  few  notes  cuiicerning  the  Yezidis  and  (heir  faith  to 
those  contained  in  my  former  work ;  they  were  chiefly  obtained  from  Cawal 
Yusuf. 

They  believe  that  Christ  will  come  to  govern  the  world,  but  that  after 
him  Sheikh  Medi  will  appear,  to  whom  will  be  given  special  jurisdiction 
over  those  speaking  the  Kurdish  language,  including  the  Yezidis  (this  is 
evidently  a  modern  interpolation  derived  from  Mussulman  sources,  perhaps 
invented  to  conciliate  tlie  Mohammedans). 

All  who  go  to  heaven  must  first  pass  an  expiatory  period  in  hell,  but  no 
one  will  be  punished  eternally.  Mohammedans  they  exclude  from  all  fu- 
ture life,  but  not  Christians.  (This  may  have  been  said  to  avoid  giving 
ofiencc.) 

The  Yezidis  will  not  receive  converts  to  their  faith  ;  circumcision  is  oj»- 
tional.  When  a  child  is  born  near  enough  to  the  tomb  of  tSheikh  Adi,  to  be 
taken  there  without  great  inconvenience  or  danger,  it  should  be  baptized  an 
early  as  possible  after  birth.  The  Cawals  in  their  jwriodical  visitation."* 
carry  a  bottle  or  skin  filled  with  the  holy  water,  to  baptize  those  children 
who  cannot  be  brought  to  tbo  shrine. 

There  are  forty  days  fast  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  but  they  are  observed 
by  few ;  one  person  in  a  family  may  fast  for  the  rest.t  They  should  ab- 
stain during  that  period  as  completely  as  the  Chaldieans  from  animal 
food.  Sheikh  Nasr  fasts  rigidly  l»r  one  month  in  the  year,  eating  only 
once  in  twenty-four  hours  and  immediately  after  sunset. 

Only  one  wife  is  strictly  lawful,  although  the  chief  takes  more  ;  but  con- 
cubines are  not  forbidden.  The  wife  may  ho  turned  away  for  great  mis 
conduct,  and  the  husband,  with  the  consent  of  the  Sheikhs,  may  marry 
«again  ;  but  the  discarded  wife  never  can.  Erea  such  divorces  ought  only 
to  be  given  in  cases  of  adultery  ;  for  formerly,  when  the  Yezidis  adminis- 
tered their  own  temporal  laws,  the  wife  was  punished  with  death,  and  thr 
husband  of  course  was  then  releasod. 

The  religious,  as  well  as  the  political  head  of  all  the  Yezidis,  wherever 
they  may  reside,  is  Hussein  Bey,  who  is  called  the  Kalifa,  and  he  holds  this 

•  The  flute  of  the  Yezidis  consists  of  a  reed  tilown  at  one  end.  The  tone  is  ex- 
ceedingly sweet  and  mellow,  and  some  of  tlieir  melodies  very  plaintive. 

t  This  reminds  uie  of  tlic  Bfdimiii.s,  vvlm,  wlicii  ihey  come  into  a  town  in  a  party, 
send  one  of  their  nuinlier  to  ttie  ^lo^sque  lu  (>ray  lor  his  conipaniuns  as  well  as  hini- 


78 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  IV. 


position  by  inheritance.  As  he  is  young  and  inexperienced,  he  deputes  his 
religiouB  duties  to  Sheikh  Nasr.  He  should  be  the  Peesh-Namaz,  or  lead-  < 
er  of  the  prayers,  during  sacrod  ceremonies  ;  but  as  a  peculiar  dress  is  worn 
on  this  occasion,  and  the  Bey  is  obliged  to  be  in  continual  intercourse  with 
tht)  Turkish  authorities,  these  robes  might  fall  into  their  hands,  and  they 
are,  therefore,  entrusted  to  Sheikh  Jindi,  who  officiates  for  the  young  chief  • 
Sheikh  Nasr  is  only  the  chief  of  the  ijheikhs  of  the  district  of  tjheikhan. 
The  Cawala  arc  all  of  one  fumily,  and  are  under  the  orders  of  Hussein  Bey, 
who  sends  them  periodically  to  collect  the  voluntary  contributions  of  the 
various  tribes.  The  amount  received  by  them  is  divided  into  two  equal 
parts,  one  of  which  goes  to  the  support  of  the  tomb  of  Sheikh  Adi,  and 
half  of  the  other  to  Hussein  Bey,  the  remainder  being  equally  shared  by 
the  Cawals.  Neither  the  priests  nor  Hussein  Bey  ever  shave  their  beards. 
They  ought  not  to  marry  out  of  their  own  order,  and  though  the  men  do 
not  observe  this  rule  very  strictly,  the  women  are  never  given  in  marriage 
to  one  out  of  the  rank  of  the  priesthood.  Hussein  Bey  ought  to  take  hig 
wife  from  the  family  of  Chul  Beg. 

After  death,  the  body  of  a  Yezidi,  like  that  of  a  Mohammedan,  is  washed 
Lu  running  water,  and  ttien  buried  with  the  face  turned  towards  the  north 
star.  A  Cawal  should  be  present  at  the  ceremony,  but  if  one  cannot  bo 
found,  the  next  who  visits  the  neighbourhootl  should  pray  over  the  grave. 
1  have  frcqijently  seen  funeral  parties  of  Yczidis  in  their  villages.  The 
widow  dressed  in  while,  throwing  dust  over  her  head,  which  is  also  well 
smeared  with  clay,  and  accompanied  by  her  female  friends,  will  meet  the 
mourners  dancing,  with  the  sword  or  shield  of  her  husband  in  one  hand, 
and  long  locks  cut  from  her  own  hair  in  the  other. 

I  have  stated  that  it  is  unlawful  amongst  the  Yezidis  to  know  how  V 
read  or  write.  This,  I  am  assured,  is  not  the  case,  and  their  ignorance 
arises  from  want  of  means  and  projMjr  teachers.  Formerly  a  Chaldteui 
deacon  used  to  instruct  the  children. 

Cawal  Yusuf  mentioned  accidentally,  that,  amongst  the  YeEidis,  the  an* 
cient  name  for  God  was  Azed,  and  from  it  he  derived  the  name  of  his  sect. 
Ho  confirmed  to  me  the  fact  of  the  small  Ziareh  at  tsheikh  Adi  being  dedi- 
cated to  the  sun,  who,  he  says,  is  called  by  the  Yezidis  "  Walteel  el  Ardth" 
(the  Lieutenant  or  Governor  of  the  world).  They  have  no  particular  rev-» 
erencc  for  fire  ;  the  people  pass  their  hands  through  the  flame  of  the  lamps 
nt  Sheikh  Adi,  merely  because  they  belong  to  the  tomb.  Their  Kublah, 
he  declared,  was  the  polar  star  and  not  the  east. 

On  my  way  to  Mosul  from  Sheikh  Adi,  I  visited  the  ruins  of  Jorraiyah, 
where  excavations  had  been  again  carried  on  by  one  of  my  agents.  No 
ancient  buildings  were  discovered.  The  principal  mound  is  lofty  and  con- 
ical in  shape,  and  the  base  is  surrounded  by  smaller  mounds,  and  irregular- 


*  Ali  Bey,  Hussein's  father,  was  initiated  in  the  performance  of  all  the  ceremonies 
of  the  faith. 


■-"\    , 


Moiuid  or  Mmroud. 


CHAPTER  V. 


>MIB«V.4L  OP  kXCAVATIONS  AT  KOl'VCKillE. P1R8T   VISIT  TO   XIXEOUO STATE  OF   RUINS 

IEN8W    KXCAVATION*   IN    MOUMU. TUB    A«OC    SALIIAW    ARABS. VISIT    OP    COLONRI. 

RAWI.INSON. UATirP   AOHA. MR.  H.   RA5SAM. THR    JKBOl'R  WOKKMKW    AT    ROOVrjTJIK 

—  UISCOVKRIRB  AT  KOlfyt'NJIlC. Bfl'LPTLRBK  RBPRBBENTINO  MOVINO   OP  GREAT    MONKS 

AWD    WINQlEb    ttULLII. MKTHOIIII     AOOPTEU. BlMII.AU    SITBJKCT    ON     fOVPTIAN    MOMT- 

ilBNT. — KPIORAPUS    on    RA!<-REL]EPS    OP    XOTINO     Bt'LLB. SCtlLPTCKES    KKPRKsENTtNO 

INTADIOX  OP   MOC'NTAIKOl-S   CO|-NTBV,   AND   SAfK   OP   IMTV. — DISCOVERY  OP  OATKWAV, — 
BICAVaTIOX    IN    HIOH    CONICWL  MOUNO    AT    MHBOl'D. —  HISCOVBRY    OP   WALl.    OP    STONB. 

— PKAST    Tl)    TIIK    VKZUIItl    XT    MOSUL. VISIT   TO    KMORSABAD. — DISCOVERT   OP    SLAB. 

STATK  OF    TIIK    RUINS. PUTULIYAH. BAAZANI. BAASHKIKIIAlt. 

Wi:  were  again  in  Mosul  by  the  12th  of  October.  The  Jebours,  my  old 
workmen,  had  now  brought  their  fainihcs  to  ihe  town.  1  directed  iheni  to 
cross  the  river,  and  to  piu-h  their  tents  over  the  excavations  at  Koiiymijik, 
OS  they  had  i'ortnerly  done  around  the  trenches  at  Nimroud.  The  Bedou- 
ins, unchecked  in  tlieir  forays  by  the  Turkish  authorities,  had  become  so 
huld,  that  they  %'eirluied  to  tlie  very  walls  of  Mosul,  and  on  the  opposite 
hatdt  of  the  Tigris  had  plmidered  the  eatlle  beloiigring  to  the  inhabitants  of 
the  villuf,'e  of  the  tomb  of  Jonah.  On  one  occasion  1  saw  an  Arab  horse- 
inou  of  the  desert  dart  into  the  high  road,  seize  a  mule,  and  drive  it  off 
Iruni  amidst  a  crowd  of  spectators.  Tiiis  state  of  things  made  it  uecessar)' 
10  have  a  strong  piirly  on  the  ruins  for  sclf-Jcfenco.  The  Jebours  ■were, 
however,  on  good  terms  with  the  Bedouins,  and  had  lately  encamped 
amongst  them.  Indeed,  it  was  suspected,  that  whilst  Abd-rubbou  and  his 
tribe  were  more  than  usually  Buhmissive  in  their  dealings  with  the  local 
Sjovernmeiit,  lliey  were  the  receivers  of  goods  carried  off  by  their  friends, 
Iheir  intercourse  with  the  town  ciinbliug  them  to  dispose  of  such  property 
to  the  best  ad  vantage  in  the  market-place. 

About  one  hundred  workmen,  divided  into  twelve  or  fourteen  parties. 
were  em[)loyed  at  Kouyuiijik.  The  Arabs,  as  before,  removed  the  earlh 
and  rubbish,  whilst  the  more  difhcult  labor  with  the  pick  was  left  entire- 
ly to  the  Nestorinu  mountaineers.  My  old  friend,  Yakoub,  the  Rais  of 
Ashcelha,  made  bis  appearance  one  morning,  declaring  that  things  were 


Jhap.  v.] 


RSTVIU*  TO  NDraous. 


going  on  ill  in  the  mountftins  ;  and  that,  although  the  head  of  a  village,  he 
hoped  to  spend  the  winter  more  profitably  and  more  pleasantly  in  my 
service.  He  was  accordingly  named  superintendent  of  the  Tiyari  work- 
men, for  whom  I  built  mud  huta  near  the  foot  of  the  mound. 

The  work  having  been  thus  began  at  Kouyunjik,  I  rodu  with  Hormuzd 
to  Niniroud  for  the  first  time  on  the  18ih  of  October.  It  seemed  bui  yes- 
terday that  we  had  followed  the  same  track.  We  stopped  at  each  village, 
and  found  in  each  old  acquaintances  ready  to  welcome  ua.  From  the  crest 
of  the  hill  half  way,  the  first  view  of  Nimroud  opened  upon  ns  ;  the  old 
mound,  oa  which  I  had  gazed  so  often  from  this  spot,  and  with  which  so 
many  happy  recollections  were  bound  up,  rising  boldly  above  the  Jaif,  the 
river  winding  through  the  plain,  the  distant  wreaths  of  smoke  marking  the 
villages  of  Naifa  and  Nimroud.  At  Selainiyah  we  sought  the  house  of  the 
Kiayah,  where  I  had  passed  the  first  winter  whilst  excavating  at  Nim- 
roud :  but  it  was  now  a  house  of  mourning.  The  good  old  man  had  died 
two  days  before,  and  the  wails  of  the  women,  telling  of  a  death  within, 
met  our  ears  as  we  approached  the  hovel.  Turning  from  the  scene  of  woe, 
we  galloped  over  the  plain,  and  reached  Nimroud  as  the  sun  went  down. 
Saleh  Shahir,  with  the  elders  of  the  village,  was  there  to  receive  us.  I 
dismounted  at  my  old  house,  which  was  still  standing,  though  somewhat 
in  ruins,  for  it  had  been  the  habitation  of  the  Kiayah  during  my  absence. 
Toma  Shishman  had,  however,  been  sent  down  the  day  before,  and  had 
made  such  preparations  for  our  reception  as  the  state  of  the  place  would 
permit.  To  avoid  the  vermin  swarcning  in  the  rooms,  my  tent  was  pitched 
in  the  courtyard,  and  I  dwelt  entirely  in  it. 

The  village  had  still,  comparatively  speaking,  a  flourishing  appearance, 
and  had  not  diminished  in  size  since  my  last  visit.  The  tanzimat,,  or  re- 
formed system  of  local  administration,  had  been  introduced  into  the  pashalio 
of  Mosul,  and  although  many  of  its  regulations  were  evaded,  and  arbitrary 
acts  were  still  occasionally  committed,  yet  on  the  whole  a  marked  improve- 
ment had  taken  place  in  the  dealings  of  the  authorities  with  the  subjects 
of  the  yultau.  The  groat  cause  of  complaint  was  the  want  of  security. 
The  troops  under  the  command  of  the  Pasha  were  not  suflicient  in  number 
to  keep  the  Bedouins  in  check,  and  there  was  scarcely  a  village  in  the  low 
country  which  had  not  suffered  more  or  less  from  their  depredations.  Nim- 
roud was  particularly  exposed  to  their  incursions,  and  the  inhabitants  lived 
in  continual  agitation  and  alarm. 

The  evening  was  spent  with  the  principal  people  of  the  village,  talking 
with  them  of  their  prospects,  taxes,  harvests,  and  the  military  conscription, 
now  the  great  theme  of  discontent  in  Southern  Turkey,  where  it  had  been 
xewiy  introduced. 

By  sunrise  I  was  amongst  the  ruins.  The  mound  had  undergone  no 
change.  There  it  rose  from  the  plain,  the  same  sun-burnt  yellow  heap  that 
it  had  stood  for  twenty  centuries.  The  earth  and  rubbish,  which  had  been 
heaped  over  the  excavated  chambers  and  sculptured  slabs,  had  settled,  ajid 

F 


i 


62 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  V. 


had  left  uncovered  in  sinking  the  upper  part  of  several  bos-reliefs.  A  few 
ooloBsai  heads  of  wiiigetJ  figures  rose  calmly  above  the  level  of  the  soil,  and 
with  two  pairs  of  winged  biillB.  which  had  not  been  reburied  on  account  of 
their  mutilated  condition,  was  all  that  remained  above  ground  of  the  north- 
west palace,  that  great  Btorehouse  of  Assyrian  history  and  art.  Since  my 
departure  the  surface  of  the  mound  had  again  been  furrowed  by  the  plough, 
and  ample  crops  had  this  year  rewarded  the  labors  of  the  husbandman. 
The  ruins  of  the  south-west  palace  were  still  uncovered.  The  Arabs  had 
respected  the  few  bas-reliefs  which  stood  against  the  crumbling  M-alls,  and 
tjaleh  Shahir  pointed  to  them  as  a  proof  of  the  watchfulness  of  his  people 
during  my  long  absence. 

Collecting  together  my  old  excavators  from  the  Shemutti  and  Jehesh 
(the  Arab  tribes  who  inhabit  Nimroud  and  Naifa),  and  from  the  tents  of 
a  few  Jebours  who  still  lingered  round  the  village  to  glean  n  scanty  sub- 
sistence afler  the  harvest,  I  placed  workmen  in  difierent  parts  of  the  mound. 
The  north-west  palace  had  not  been  fully  explored.  Most  of  the  chambers 
which  did  not  contain  sculptured  elabs,  but  were  simply  built  of  suudried 
bricks,  had  been  left  unopened.  I  consequently  directed  a  party  of  workmen 
to  resume  the  excavations  where  they  had  been  formerly  abandoned.* 
New  trenches  were  also  ojKJued  in  the  ruins  of  the  centre  palace,  where,  as 
yet.  no  sculptures  had  been  discovered  in  their  original  position  against  the 
walls.  The  high  conical  mound  forming  the  north-west  comer  of  Nim- 
roud, the  pyramid  as  it  has  usually  been  called,  had  always  been  an  object 
of  peculiar  interest,  which  want  of  means  had  hitherto  prevented  me  fully 
examining.  With  the  exception  of  a  shaft,  about  forty  feet  deep,  sunk 
nearly  in  the  centre,  and  passing  through  a  solid  mass  of  siuidried  bricks, 
no  other  opening  had  been  made  into  this  singular  ruin.  I  now  ordered  a 
tunnel  to  be  carried  into  its  base  on  the  western  face,  and  on  a  level  with 
Ihe  conglomerate  rock  upon  which  it  rested. 

Whilst  riding  among  the  ruins  giving  directions  to  the  workmen,  we  had 
not  escaped  the  watchful  eyes  of  the  Abou-i:>alman  Arabs,  whose  tents  were 
scattered  over  the  Jaif.  Not  having  heard  of  my  visit,  and  perceiving 
horsrinen  wandering  over  the  mound,  they  took  ua  for  Bedouin  marauders, 
and  mountitig  their  ever-ready  mares,  sallied  forth  to  reconnoitre.  Seeing 
Arabs  galloping  over  the  plain  I  rode  down  to  meet  them,  and  soon  found 
injself  in  the  embrace  of  Sehloss,  the  nephew  of  Sheikh  Abd-ur-Rahman, 
We  turned  together  to  the  lent  of  the  cbiff,  still  pitched  on  the  old  en- 
camping ground.  The  men.  itislead  of  fighting  with  Bedouins,  now  gath- 
ered round  us  in  the  muzcr/A  and  a.  sheep  was  slain  to  celebrate  my  re- 
turn. The  Sheikh  himself  was  absent,  having  been  thrown  into  prison  by 
the  Pasha  for  refusing  to  pay  some  ncwly-imjmscd  taxea.  I  was  able  to 
announce  his  release,  at  my  intercession,  to  his  wife,  who  received  me  as  hia 
guest.     The  Sheikh  of  the  Haddedeen  Arabs,  hearing  that  I  was  at  the 

♦  To  the  south  of  Chamber  X.  Plan  IH.     "  .Ninrveli  and  its  Remains,"  vol.  j  p.  64. 
t  The  mu2tc/\9  that  jiart  of  an  .\rab  tent  in  whioh  guests  are  received. 


CHAr.  v.]  *"  tJNKXMCTED  WEETINa. 

Abou-Salin&n  camp,  rode  over  with  his  people  to  see  me.  Uu  tents  stood 
on  the  banks  of  the  Tigris,  and  he  had  united  with  Abd-ur-Rahinan  for 
mutual  defence  against  the  Bedouins. 

As  we  returned  to  Nimroud  iu  the  evening,  we  stopped  at  a  small  en* 
campnlent  in  the  Jaif,  and  buried  beneath  a  heap  of  old  felts  and  sacks 
found  poor  Khalaf-el-Huasein,  who  had,  iu  Jbmier  times,  been  the  active 
and  hospitable  Sheikh  of  my  Jebour  workmen  at  the  mound.  The  world 
had  since  gone  ill  with  him.  Struck  down  by  fever,  he  had  been  unable 
to  support  himself  and  hib  family  by  tabor,  or  other  means  open  to  an  Arab 
He  was  in  great  poverty,  and  still  helpless  from  disease.  He  rose  up  as 
we  rode  to  his  tent,  and  not  having  heard  of  our  arrival  was  struck  with 
astonishment  and  delight  as  he  saw  Hormuzd  and  myself  as  its  entrance. 
We  gave  him  such  help  as  was  in  our  power,  and  he  declared  that  the 
prospect  of  again  being  in  my  service  would  soon  prove  the  best  lenedy  for 
his  disease. 

As  I  ascended  the  mound  next  morning  I  perceived  a  group  of  travellers 
on  its  summit,  their  horses  picketted  in  the  stubbk-.  Ere  I  could  learn 
what  strangers  hud  thus  wandered  to  this  remote  region,  my  hand  was 
seized  by  the  faithful  Bairakdar.  Beneath,  in  an  excavated  chanxbcr, 
wrapped  in  his  travelling  cloak,  was  Rawlinson  deep  in  sleep,  wearied  by 
a  long  and  harassing  night's  ride.  For  the  first  time  wo  met  in  the  As- 
sjTiau  ruins,  aud  besides  the  greetings  of  old  frieudship  there  was  much  to 
be  seen  together,  aud  much  to  be  talked  over.  The  fatigues  of  the  jour- 
ney had,  however,  brought  on  fever,  and  we  were  soon  compelled,  oiler 
visiting  the  principal  excavations,  to  take  refuge  from  the  heat  of  the  stiu 
in  the  mud  huts  of  the  village.  The  attack  increasing  iti  the  evening,  it 
was  deemed  pnident  to  ride  into  Mosul  at  once,  and  we  mounted  our  horses 
in  the  middle  of  the  night. 

During  two  days  Col.  Rawhnson  was  too  ill  to  visit  the  excavations  at 
Kouyunjik.  On  the  third  we  rode  together  to  the  monml.  After  a  hasty 
survey  of  the  ruins  we  parted,  and  he  continued  his  jonrney  to  Constanti- 
nople and  to  England,  to  reap  the  laurels  of  a  well-earned  lame.* 

I  had  now  nearly  all  my  old  adherents  and  workmen  about  me.  The 
Bairakdar,  who  had  hastened  to  join  me  as  soon  as  he  had  heard  of  my  re- 
turn, was  named  principal  cawass,  and  had  the  general  management  of 
my  household.  One  LatilF  Agha,  like  the  Bairakdar,  a  native  of  Scio,  car- 
ried oETas  a  slave  after  the  massacre,  and  brought  up  in  the  Mussulman 
creed,  was  ap|iointed  an  overseer  over  the  workmen.     He  had  been  strongly 

•  .Shortly  after  Col.  Rawtinson's  ileparlure,  Capt.  NewboW,  uf  tlic  East  India  Com- 
pany's ser^-ice,  spout  a  few  days  wiih  me  at  Mosul.  AUhniii;)],  alas  I  I  i-.tn  no  longer 
recall  to  his  rernllection  tbc  happy  hours  wo  jrasscd  toffcther,  let  mr  piiy  a  sincere 
iribiito  lo  tlie  mi-Jiiory  ofoni?  wlio,  in  spite  of  hopeless  disease,  and  sutferinga  of  no 
common  Wind,  maintained  an  almost  unrivall'.-d  sweetness  of  disposition,  and  never 
relaxed  from  the  pursuit  ofknuwlcdgc  and  the  love  of  science.  Those  who  enjoyed 
his  iotioiacy,  am!  protited  liy  bis  learning,  will  know  that  this  testimony  to  his  worth 
is  not  the  exaggerated  praise  of  partial  friendship. 


NINBVSB  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  V. 


recommended  to  me  by  the  British  consul  at  Kaiseriyah,  and  fully  justified 
in  my  service  by  his  honesty  and  fidelity  the  good  report  I  had  received  of 
him. 

My  readers  would  be  wearied  wore  I  to  relate,  day  by  day,  the  progreM 
of  the  excavations,  and  to  record,  as  they  were  gradually  made,  thenliscov- 
erics  ia  the  various  ruins.  It  will  give  a  more  complete  idea  of  the  results 
of  the  researches  to  describe  the  sculptured  walls  of  a  whole  chamber  when 
entirely  explored,  instead  of  noting,  one  by  one,  as  dug  out,  bas-reliefs 
which  fortii  but  pari  of  the  same  subject.  I  will,  therefore,  merely  mea- 
tion  that,  during  the  months  of  October  and  November,  my  time  was  spent 
between  Kouyuiijik  and  Nimroud,  and  that  the  excavations  were  carried  on 
at  both  places  without  interruption.  Mr.  Cooper  was  occupied  in  drawing 
the  bas-reliefs  diBcovered  at  Kouyunjik,  living  in  Mosul,  and  riding  over 
daily  to  the  ruins.  To  Mr.  Hormuzd  Rassarn,  who  usually  accompanied  me 
in  my  journeys,  were  confided,  as  before,  the  general  sufierintentJence  of  the 
operations,  the  payment  of  the  workmen,  the  settlement  of  disputes,  and 
various  other  offices,  which  only  one,  as  well  acquainted  as  himself  with 
the  Arabs  and  men  of  various  sects  employed  in  the  works,  and  exercising 
so  much  personal  influence  amongst  them,  could  undertake.  To  his  un- 
wearied exertions,  and  his  faithi'ul  and  punctual  discharge  of  all  the  du- 
ties imposed  upon  hijn,  to  his  inexhaustible  good  humour,  combined  with 
necessary  firmness,  to  his  complete  knowledge  of  the  Arab  character,  and 
the  attachment  with  which  even  the  wildest  of  those  with  whom  we  were 
brought  in  contact  regarded  him,  the  Trttstees  of  the  British  Museum  owe 
not  only  much  of  the  sticcess  of  these  researches,  but  the  economy  with 
which  1  was  enabled  to  carry  them  through.  Without  him  it  would  have 
been  impossible  to  accomplish  half  what  has  been  done  with  the  means 
placed  at  my  disposal. 

The  Arab  workmen,  as  I  have  already  observed,  lived  in  tents  amongst 
the  ruins.  The  overseers  of  the  works  of  Kouyunjik  resided  either  in  the 
village  near  the  foot  of  the  mound,  or  in  Mosul,  and  crossed  the  river  every 
morning  before  the  labors  of  the  day  began.  The  workmen  were  divided 
into  several  classes,  and  their  wages  varied  according  to  their  respective 
occwpalions,  as  well  as  according  to  the  time  of  year.  They  were  gener- 
ally paid  weekly  by  Hormuzd.  The  diggers,  who  were  exposed  to  very  se- 
vere labor,  and  even  to  considerable  risk,  received  from  two  piastres  and  a 
half  to  three  piastres  (from  6d.  to  6d.)  a-day  ;  those  who  filled  the  baskets 
from  two  piastres  to  two  and  &  half;  and  the  general  workmen  from  one 
and  a  half  to  two  piastres.  The  earth,  when  removed,  was  sifted  by  boys, 
who  earned  about  one  piastre  for  their  day's  tabor.  These  wages  may  ap- 
pear low,  but  they  arc  amply  sulTicient  fur  the  sup]M>rt  of  a  family  in  a 
country  where  the  camel-load  of  wheat  (nearly  480  lbs)  is  sold  for  about 
four  shillings,  and  where  no  other  protection  from  the  inplemeneies  of  the 
weather  is  needed  than  a  linen  shirt  and  the  black  folds  of  an  Arab  lent.* 

•  At  Mosul,  a  bullock,  very  small  certainly  when  compared  with  our  high-red  cat- 


Chap.  T.] 


CRAITBBRS  DBSCRIBBD. 


m 


The  Kouyunjik  workmen  were  usually  paid  in  the  Bubterraneous  galle* 
ries,  some  convenient  space  where  several  passafes  met  being  chosen  for 
the  puqjose  ;  those  of  f^imroud  generally  in  the  village.  A  scene  of  wild 
confusion  ensued  on  these  occasions,  from  which  an  inexperienced  observer 
might  argue  a  sad  want  of  order  and  method.  This  was,  however,  but 
the  way  of  doing  business  usual  in  the  country.  When  there  was  a  dif- 
ference of  opinion,  he  who  cried  the  loudest  gained  the  day,  and  after  a 
desperate  struggle  of  voices  matters  relapsed  into  their  usual  state,  every 
one  being  perfectly  satisfied.  Screaming  and  gesticulation  with  Easterns 
by  no  means  signify  ill  will,  or  even  serious  disagreement.  Without  them, 
eicopl  of  course  amongst  the  Turks,  who  are  staid  and  dignified  to  a  prov- 
erb, the  moat  ordinary  transactions  cannot  be  carried  on,  and  they  are  fre- 
quently rather  symptoms  of  friendship  than  of  hostility.  Sometimes  the 
Arabs  employed  at  KoujT^injik  would  cross  the  river  to  Mosul  to  receive 
their  pay.  They  would  then  walk  through  the  town  in  martial  array, 
brandishing  their  weapons  and  chanting  their  war  cries  in  chorus,  to  the 
alarm  of  the  authorities  and  the  inhabitants,  who  generally  concluded  that 
the  place  had  been  iuvadcd  by  the  Bcdouius.  It  was  Mr.  Hormuzd  Ras- 
Bam's  task  to  keep  in  check  these  wild  spirits. 

By  the  end  of  November  several  entire  chambers  had  been  excavated 
at  Kouyunjik,  and  many  bas-reliefs  of  great  interest  had  been  discovered. 
The  four  sides  of  the  hall,  part  of  which  has  already  been  described,*  had 
now  been  explored,  t  In  the  centre  of  each  side  was  a  grand  entrance, 
guarded  by  colossal  haman-hcaded  bulls,  t  This  magnificent  hall  was  no 
less  than  1 24  feet  in  length  by  90  feet  in  breadth,  the  longest  sides  being  those 
to  the  north  and  south.  It  appears  to  have  formed  a  centre,  around  which 
the  principal  chambers  in  this  part  of  the  palace  were  grouped.  Its  walls 
had  been  completely  covered  with  the  most  elaborate  and  highly-finished 
scnlptures.  Unfortunately  all  the  bas-reliefs,  as  well  as  the  gigantic  mon- 
sters at  the  entrances,  had  sufl'ered  more  or  less  from  the  fire  which  had 
destroyed  the  edifice  ;  but  enough  of  them  still  remained  to  show  the  sub- 
ject, and  even  to  enable  me  in  many  places  to  restore  it  entirely. 

The  narrow  passage  leading  from  the  great  hall  at  the  southwest  corner 


tic,  is  sold  for  forty  or  fifty  piastres  (8,«.  or  10».) ;  a  fat  sheep  for  abnut  -Ij. ;  a  lamb 
for  23.  or  a».  6d.  Other  arliclea  of  food  are  proportionally  cheap.  Tlic  caincl-load 
of  barley  was  selling  at  my  departure  for  ten  iir  twelve  piastres  (2j.  or  2«.  Gd).  A 
cuminon  horse  is  worth  from  3/.  vo  bi.\  a  donkey  about  10#. ;  a  camel  about  the  samp 
as  a  horse. 

•  Sec  p.  59. 

t  It  will  be  borne  in  mind  thnt  it  was  necessary  to  carry  tunnels  round  the  cham- 
bers, and  along  the  wails,  leavini^  the  centre  buried  in  earth  und  rubbish,  a  very  la- 
borious and  tedious  operation  with  no  more  means  at  command  than  those  aflbrded 
by  the  country. 

t  All  these  entranws  were  formed  in  the  same  way  as  thai  in  the  Huntb-castom 
side,  described  p.  CO,  namciy,  tiy  a  pair  of  human-headed  bulls,  flanked  on  each  side 
by  a  winged  giant,  and  two  smaller  figures  one  above  the  other. 


S6 


TONEVBH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  V. 


had  been  completely  explored.  lu  8culpUire«  have  already  been  described.'* 
It  opened  into  a  chamber  2t  feet  by  1 9,  from  which  branched  two  other 
passages, t  The  one  to  the  west  was  entered  by  a  wide  doorway,  iu  which 
stood  two  plain  spherical  stones  about  three  feet  high,  having  the  appear- 
ance of  the  bases  of  columns,  although  no  traces  of  any  such  architectural 
ornament  could  be  found.  This  was  the  entrance  into  a  broad  and  spa- 
cious gallery,  about  218  feet  long  and  25  wide.}  A  tunnel  at  its  western 
end,  cut  through  the  solid  wall,  as  there  was  no  doorway  ou  this  side  of 
the  gallery,  led  into  the  chambers  excavated  by  Mr.  Ross.^  thus  connect- 
ing them  with  the  rest  of  the  building.  \  Opposite  this  tunnel  the  gallery 
turned  to  the  right,  but  was  not  explored  until  long  after.  From  this  part 
of  the  excavations  an  inclined  way,  dug  from  the  surface  of  the  mound, 
was  used  by  the  Arabs  in  descending  to  the  subterraneous  works. 

I  have  already  described  the  bas-roliefs  representing  the  conquest  of  & 
mountaiutius  country  on  the  southern  side  of  the  great  hall.  ||  The  same 
subject  was  continued  on  the  western  wall,  without  much  variety  in  the 
details.  But  on  the  northern,  the  sculptures  diflered  from  any  others  yet 
discovered,  and  from  their  interest  and  novelty  merit  a  particular  notice. 
They  were  in  some  cases  nearly  entire,  though  much  cracked  and  calcined 
by  fire,  and  represented  the  process  of  transporting  the  great  humau-headed 
bulls  to  the  palaces  of  which  they  formed  so  remarkable  a  feature.  But 
before  giving  a  particular  description  of  them,  I  must  return  to  the  long 
gallery  to  the  west  of  the  great  hall, IT  as  the  sculptures  still  preserved  in 
it  form  part  of  and  complete  this  important  series. 

The  slabs  on  one  side  of  this  gallery  had  been  entirely  destroyed,  except 
at  the  eastern  end  ;  and  from  the  few  which  still  remained,  every  trace  of 
sculpture  had  been  carefully  removed  by  some  sharp  instrument.  Along 
the  opposite  wall  (that  to  the  right  on  leaving  the  great  hall)  only  eight 
bas-relicfe  still  stood  in  their  original  position,  and  even  of  these  only  the 
lower  part  was  preserved.  Detached  fragments  of  others  were  found  in 
the  rubbish,  and  from  them  I  ascertained  that  the  whole  gallery  had  been 
occupied  by  one  continuous  series,  representing  the  difierent  processes  adopt- 
ed by  the  Assyrians  in  moving  and  placing  various  objects  used  in  their 
buildings,  and  especially  the  human-headed  bulls,  from  the  first  transport 
of  the  huge  stone  in  the  rough  from  the  quarry,  to  the  raising  of  these  gi- 
gantic sculptures  in  the  gateways  of  the  palace-temples.  On  these  frag- 
ments were  seen  the  king  in  his  chariot,  superintending  the  operation.*,  and 
workmen  carrying  cables,  or  dragging  carts  loaded  with  coils  of  ropes,  and 
various  implements  for  moving  the  colossi.  Enough,  however,  did  not  re- 
main to  restore  any  one  series  of  bas-reliefs,  but  fortunately,  on  the  slabs 


•  P.  61.  t  Noa.  XLVIII.  and  XIJI.  Plan  I. 

X  No.  XLIX.  same  Plan.  ^  Nos.  LI.  and  LH.  saiiic  Plan. 

II  P.  59.    I  assume  tlie  building  to  be  due  north  and  south,  aittjough  it  is  not  i 
It  faces  nearly  north-east  and  south-west, 
t  No.  XLIX.    Plan  I. 


Chat.  Y] 


MOVING  THE  B17LLS. 


97 


still  stauding,  was  represeuted  the  first  process,  that  of  bringing  the  stune 
from  the  quarry,  whilst  those  on  the  northern  walls  of  the  great  hall  fur- 
nished many  of  the  subjects  which  were  here  wanting.  Amongst  the  scat- 
tered fragments  was  the  figure  of  a  lion-headed  man  raising  a  sword,* 
which  does  not  appear  to  have  belonged  to  this  gallery,  unless  it  had  been 
used  to  break  the  monotony  of  one  long  line  of  elaborate  baa-roliefs  repre- 
senting nearly  the  same  subject  Similar  figures  only  occur  at  entrances 
in  the  ruins  of  Kouyunjik. 

I  will  commence,  then,  by  a  description  of  the  sculptures  still  standing 
in  their  original  position  in  the  gallery.  A  huge  block  of  stone  (probably 
of  the  alabaster  used  in  the  Assyrian  edifices),  somewhat  elongated  in  form 
80  as  to  resemble  an  obelisk  in  the  rough. t  is  lying  on  a  low  flat-bottomed 
boat  floating  on  a  river.  It  has  probably  been  towed  down  the  Tigris  from 
some  quarry,  and  is  to  be  landed  near  the  site  of  the  intended  palace,  to  be 
carved  by  the  sculptor  into  the  form  of  a  colossal  bull.  It  exceeds  the  boat 
considerably  in  length,  projecting  beyond  both  the  head  and  stern,  and  is 
held  by  upright  beams  fastened  to  the  sides  of  the  vessel,  and  kept  linn  m 
their  places  by  wooden  wedges.  Two  cables  arc  passed  through  holus  cut 
in  the  stone  itself,  and  a  third  is  tied  to  a  strong  pin  pmjccting  from  the 
head  of  the  boat.  Each  cable  is  held  by  a  large  body  of  men,  who  pull 
by  means  of  small  ropes  fastened  to  it  and  passed  round  their  shoulders. 
Some  of  these  trackers  walk  tu  the  water,  others  on  dry  land.  The  num- 
ber altogether  represented  must  have  been  nearly  liOO,  about  100  to  each 
cable,  and  they  appear  to  be  divided  into  distinct  bands,  each  distin- 
guished by  a  peculiar  costume.  Some  wear  a  kind  of  embroidered  turban, 
—  ,,^  through  which  their  long  hair  is  gath- 
ered behind  ;  the  heads  of  others  are 
encircled  by  a  fringed  shawl,  whose 
ends  hang  over  the  ears  and  neck, 
leaving  the  hair  to  fall  in  long  curls 
upon  the  shoulders.  Many  are  repre- 
sented naked,  but  the  greater  number 
Hewi-diwi.  or  c.piiTo.  employed  by  AMjfrians  arc  dressed  in  short  chequered  tunics, 
m  mov„.g  Buu  n.i.uyanjik).  ^.;^^^  ^  j,,„^  ^y^^^^^  attached  to  the  gir- 

dle. They  are  urged  on  by  taskmasters  armed  with  swords  and  staves. 
The  boat  is  also  pushed  by  men  wading  through  the  stream.  An  overseer, 
who  regulates  the  whole  proceedings,  is  sealed  astride  on  the  fore-part  of 
the  stone.  His  hands  are  stretched  out  in  the  act  of  giving  commamls. 
The  upper  part  of  all  the  bas-reliefs  having  unfortunately  been  destroyed, 
•  Thia  sculpture  is  now  in  ilie  British  Muaeiiin.  The  engraving  on  tlie  following 
page,  from  a  sketch  by  the  ahic  pencil  of.  the  Kcv.  S.  C.  Malan,  will  show  in  wtial 
state  these  fragments  were  discovered. 

t  Ft  13  just  possible  Jhat  this  object  may  really  represent  an  obelisk,  similar  to  that 
brought,  according  tu  Diodorua  Siculus  (lib.  ii.  c.  I  ),  by  Semiramis,  from  Armenia  tu 
Babylon  ;  but  I  think  it  far  more  probable,  for  several  reasons,  Ibat  it  is  a  block  m  the 
rougli  from  the  quarry,  lu  be  sculptured  into  the  form  of  a  winged  buJi 


Chap.  V.J 


MOVING  THE  BULLS, 


89 


it  cannot  be  ascertained  what  (igures  were  repreBentcd  above  the  trackeri ; 
probably  Assyrian  warriors  drawn  up  in  martial  array,  or  may  be  the  king 
himseli'  in  his  chariot,  accompanied  by  his  body-guard,  and  presiding  over 
the  operationi.* 

The  huge  stone  having  been  landed,  and  carved  by  the  Assyrian  Knlp> 
torin  to  the  fonn  of  a  colossal  human-headed  bull,  is  to  be  moved  from  the 
bank  of  the  river  to  the  site  it  is  meant  to  occupy  permanently  in  the  pal- 
ace-temple. Thi<  procesa  is  represented  on  the  walls  of  the  great  hall. 
From  those  bae-reliefs,  as  well  as  from  discoveries  to  be  hereafter  mention- 
ed, it  is  therefore  evident  that  the  Assyrians  sculptured  their  gigantic  figures 
before,  and  not  after,  the  slabs  had  been  raised  in  the  edifice,  although  all 
the  details  and  the  iinishing  touehcs  were  not  put  in,  as  it  will  be  seen, 
until  they  had  been  finally  placed.!  I  am  still,  however,  of  opinion,  that 
the  smaller  bas-reliefs  were  entirely  executed  aUer  the  slabs  had  been  at- 
tached to  the  walls. 

In  the  first  bas-relief  I  shall  describe,  the  colossal  bull  rests  horizontally 
on  a  sledge  similar  in  form  to  the  boat  containing  the  rough  block  from  the 
quarr)',  but  cither  in  the  carving  the  stone  has  been  greatly  reduced  in  size, 
or  the  (ledge  is  much  larger  than  the  boat,  as  it  considerably  exceeds  the 
soulplurc  in  length.  The  bull  faces  the  spectator,  and  the  human  head 
rests  on  the  fore  part  of  the  sledge,  which  is  curved  upwards  and  strength- 
ened by  a  thick  beam,  apparently  running  completely  through  from  side  to 
side.  The  upper  part,  or  deck,  is  otherwise  nearly  horizontal ;  the  under, 
or  keel,  being  slightly  curved  throughout.  Props,  probably  of  wood,  are 
placed  under  difTurcnt  parts  of  the  sculpture  to  secure  an  equal  pressure. 
The  sledge  was  dragged  by  cables,  and  impelled  by  levers.  The  cables  are 
four  in  number  ;  two  fastened  to  strong  projecting  pins  in  front,  and  two  to 
similar  pins  behind.  They  are  pulled  by  small  ropes  passing  over  the 
shoulders  of  the  men,  as  in  the  bas-reliefs  already  described.  The  numbers 
of  the  Workmen  may  of  course  be  only  conventional,  the  sculptor  introduc- 
ing OS  many  as  he  found  room  for  on  the  slab.  They  are  again  distinguished 
by  various  cuslumes,  being  probably  captives  from  dilT'erent  conquered  na- 
tions, and  are  urged  on  by  task-masters.  The  sculpture  moves  over  rollers, 
which,  as  soon  as  left  behind  by  the  advancing  sledge,  are  brought  again 
to  the  front  by  parties  of  men,  who  are  also  under  the  control  of  overseers 
armed  with  slaves.  Although  these  rollers  materially  facilitated  the  mo- 
tion, it  would  be  almost  impos-siblc,  when  passing  over  rough  ground,  or  if 
the  rollers  were  jammed,  to  give  the  first  impetus  to  so  heavy  a  body  by 
mere  force  applied  to  the  cables.  The  Assyrians,  therefore,  lifted,  and  con- 
sequently eased,  the  hinder  part  of  the  sledge  with  huge  levers  of  wood,  and 
ia  order  to  obtain  the  necessary  fulcrum  thoy  carried  with  them  during  the 

*  For  (he  details  of  these  interesting  bas-reliefs,  I  must  rercr  my  readers  to  Plates 
10  811(1  11.  in  the  2d  scries  of  the  Monuments  of  Nineveh. 

t  In  my  fonner  worlc  (vnt,  ii.  p,  ao.'i.)  I  had  stated  that  ol/ the  Assyrian  sculptures 
were  carved  in  their  places  against  the  walls  of  llie  tjuildings. 


operations  wedges  of  different  sizes.  Kneeling  workmen  are  represented  in 
the  bas-reliefs  inBertirtg  au  additional  wedge  to  raise  the  fulcrum.  The 
lever  itself  was  worked  by  ropes,  and  on  a  detached  fcagmciU,  discovered  in 
the  long  gallerj'.mon  were  seen  sealed  astride  upon  it  to  add  by  their  weight 
lo  the  force  applied. 

On  the  bull  itself  are  four  persons,  probably  the  Buperinteiiding  officers. 
The  first  ia  kneeling,  and  appears  to  be  clapping  Jiis  hands,  probably  beat- 
ing time,  to  regulate  the  motions  of  the  workmen,  who  unless  they  applied 
their  strength  at  one  and  the  same  moment  would  bo  unable  to  move  so 
large  a  weight.  Behind  him  stands  a  second  otiicer  with  outstretched  arm, 
evidently  giving  the  word  of  command,  The  next  holds  lo  his  mouth, 
either  a  speaking-trumpet,  or  an  instrument  of  music.  If  the  former,  it 
proves  that  the  Assyrians  were  acquainted  with  a  means  of  conveying 
sound,  presumed  to  be  of  modern  invention.  In  form  it  undoubtedly  resem- 
bles the  modern  speaking-trurajiet,  and  in  no  bas-relief  hitherto  discovered 
does  a  similar  object  occur  as  an  instrument  of  music.  The  fourth  officer, 
also  standing,  carries  a  maee,  and  is  probably  stationed  behind  to  give  di- 
rections to  those  who  work  the  levers.  The  sledge  bearing  the  sculpture 
is  followed  by  men  with  coils  of  ro^ws  and  various  implements,  and  draw- 
ing carts  laden  with  cables  and  beams.  Even  the  landscape  is  not  neg- 
lected; and  the  country  in  which  these  operations  took  place  is  indicated 
by  trees,  and  by  a  river.  In  (his  stream  are  seen  men  swimming  on  skins ; 
and  boats  and  rafts,  resembling  those  still  in  use  in  Assyria,  are  impelled 
by  oars  with  wedge-shaped  blades. 

A  subject  similar  to  that  just  described  is  represented  in  another  series 
of  bttB-reliefs,  with  even  fuller  details.  The  bnll  is  placed  in  the  same  man- 
ner on  the  sledge,  which  is  also  moved  by  cables  and  levers.  It  is  accom- 
panied by  workmen  with  sawa,  hatchets,  pick-axes,  shovels,  ropes,  and  props, 
ftud  by  cnrts  carrj'ing  cables  and  beams.  Upon  it  are  three  officers  direct- 
ing iho  operations,  ore  holding  the  tnimpet  in  hrs  hands,  and  in  front  walk 
four  other  overseers.  Above  the  sledge  and  the  workmen  are  rows  of  trees, 
anil  a  river  on  which  are  cireulur  boats  resembling  in  shape  the  "kufas," 
HOW  used  vn  llie  lower  part  of  the  Tigris,  and  probably,  like  them,  built  of 
nodi  md  ozier  twigs,  covered  with  square  pieces  of  hide.*  They  arc  heav- 
ily hidtui  with  beams  and  implements  required  ihx  moving  the  bulls.  They 
appear  to  liiivo  been  near  the  sledge  when  dragged  along  the  bank  of  the 
river,  and  were  impelled  by  four  oars  similar  to  those  above  described.  Near 
the  bouts,  BMlrido  on  inflated  skins  in  the  water,  are  fishermen  angling  with 
hiiuk  and  linet 

Chi  u  fjillen  irlttb.  forming  part  of  the  same  general  scries,  is  the  king 
itaudiiig  in  a  richly  decorated  chariot,  the  pole  of  which,  curved  upwards 

•  JSiich  npiM-iir  to  have  been  the  boats  descrilied  by  Herodotus  (lib.  i.  c.  194.).  The 
iuo<t<'rii  "kiilii"  tn  rovercd  wiili  biiiiiiipn. 

t  Tina  tmitrHief  IS  now  in  llic  Uritisti  Museum,  and  see  Plate  12.,  2nd  seriea  of 
Moiiiiiuciils  iif  NInovch. 


* 


94 


NINEVKU  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  V, 


factors,  for  many  of  Ihcm  are  ia  chains,  some  singly,  others  hound  together 
by  an  iron  rcj  attached  to  rings  in  their  girdles.  The  fetters,  like  those  < 
of  modern  criniiiials,  confine  the  legs,  and  are  snpported  by  a  bar  fastened' 
to  the  waist,  or  consist  of  simple  shackles  round  the  ankles.  They  wear 
a  short  tunic,  and  a  conical  cap,  somewhat  resembling  the  Phrygian  bon- 
net, with  the  cnrv'od  crest  turned  backwards,  a  costume  verj'  similar  to 
that  of  the  tribute  bearers  on  the  .Niiuroud  obelisk.  Each  band  of  work- 
men is  followed  and  urged  on  by  task-masters  armed  with  staves. 

The  mound,  or  artificial  platform,  having  been  thus  built,  not  always, 
as  it  has  been  seen,  with  regular  layers  of  sundried  bricks,  but  frefiuentty 
in  parts  with  mere  lieaf>ed-np  earth  and  rubbish,*  the  next  step  was  to 
drag  to  its  summit  the  colossal  fiffures  prepared  for  the  palace.  As  some 
of  the  largest  of  tliese  6cul[itures  were  full  twenty  feet  square,  and  must 
have  weighed  between  forty  and  fifiy  tons,  this  was  no  easy  task  with  such 
means  as  the  Assyrians  posseesed.  The  ordy  aid  1o  mere  manual  strength 
was  derived  from  the  rollers  and  levers.  A  sledge  was  used  similar  to  that 
alreaiiy  described,  and  drawn  in  the  same  way.  In  the  bas-relief  rcpre- 
senlidg  the  operation,  four  officers  are  seen  on  the  bull,  the  first  apparent- 
ly clajiping-  his  hands  to  repulate  the  motions  of  those  who  draw,  the  sec- 
ond using  the  trnmjK'l,  the  third  directing  the  men  who  have  the  care  of 
the  rollers,  and  the  fourth  kneeling  down  on  the  edge  of  the  back  part  of 
the  Bcnlplnre  to  give  orders  to  those  who  use  the  lever.  Two  of  the  groups 
uf  workmen  are  preceded  by  overseers,  who  turn  back  to  encourage  them 
hy  their  exertions;  and  in  front  of  the  royal  chariot,  on  the  edge  of  the 
mound,  kneels  an  olTicer,  probably  the  chief  suiwrintendent,  looking  towards 
the  king  to  receive  orders  direct  from  him. 

fkdiind  the  monarch,  on  an  adjoining  slab,  are  carts  bearing  the  cablet, 
wedges,  and  implements  required  in  moving  the  sculpture.  A  long  beam 
or  lever  is  slung  hy  ropes  from  the  shoulders  of  three  men,  and  one  of  the 
(ircot  wedge*  is  carried  in  the  same  way.  In  the  upper  compartment  of 
thia  "lab  is  a  stream  issuing  from  the  foot  of  hills  wooded  with  vines,  fig- 
trooti  And  pumegrauates.     Beneath  stands  a  town  or  village,  the  houses 


Z'i^f 


Villnur  wtllTi  innMul  RimrK,  iinir  Ali-piin. 

of  which  have  tlnmcs  and  high  conical  roofs,  probably  built  of  mud>  as  in 

parts  of  nnrllu'rn  Syria.     The  domes  have  the  appearance  of  dish-covers 

•  Sub«fi|iii;iil  rxi'avatuins  at  Kriiiyunjik  and  Nimroutl  fully  verifietl  ihis  Tact 


Chat.  V.J 


irOTIirO  THB  BULLS. 


95 


with  a  handle,  llie  upper  part  being  topped  by  a  Email  circular  projection, 
perhaps  intended  as  an  aperture  to  admit  light  and  air. 

This  interesting  series  is  completed  by  a  bas-relief,*  showing,  it  would 
seem,  the  6nal  placing  of  the  colossal  bull.  The  figure  no  longer  lies  hori- 
zontally on  the  sledge,  but  is  raised  by  mea  with  ropes  and  forked  wooden 
props.  It  is  kept  in  its  erect  position  by  beams,  held  together  by  cross 
bars  and  wedges, t  and  is  further  supported  by  blocks  of  stone,  or  wood, 
piled  up  under  the  bo<ly.  On  the  sledge,  in  front  of  the  bull,  stands  an 
olBcer  giving  directions  with  outstretched  hands  to  the  workmen.  Cablea, 
ropes,  rollers,  and  levers  arc  also  employed  on  this  occasiou  to  move  the 
gigantic  sculpture.  The  captives  are  distinguished  by  the  peculiar  tur- 
bans before  described!  Unfortunately  the  upper  part  of  all  the  slabs  has 
been  destroyed,  and  much  of  the  subject  consequenlly  wanting. 

We  have  thus  represented,  with  remarkiiLle  fidelity  and  spirit, 4  the  sev- 
eral processes  employed  to  place  these  colossi  where  they  still  stand,  from 
the  transport  down  the  river  of  the  rough  block  to  the  final  removal  of  the 
•culptured  figure  to  the  palace.  From  these  bas-reliefs  we  find  that  the 
Aasyrians  were  well  acquaiuted  with  the  lever  and  the  roller,  and  that  they 
ingeniously  made  use  of  the  former  by  carrying  with  them  wedges,  of  dif- 
ferent dimensions,  and  probably  of  wood,  to  vary  the  height  of  the  fulcrum. 
When  moving  the  winged  bulls  and  lions  now  in  the  Britibh  Museum  from 
the  ruiiifl  to  the  banks  of  the  Tigris,  I  \ised  almost  the  same  means. II  The 
Assyrians,  being  unable  to  construct  a  wheeled  cart  of  Bulficient  strength 
to  carry  so  great  a  weight,  oinployod  a  sledge,  probably  built  of  some  hard 
wood  obtained  from  the  nmuntains.  It  seems  to  have  been  nearly  solid,  or 
to  have  been  filled  with  beams,  or  decked,  as  the  sculpture  is  raised  above 
its  sides.  Unletis  the  levers  were  brought  from  a  considerable  distance, 
they  must  have  been  of  poplar,  no  other  beams  of  sufficient  length  existing 
in  the  country.  Although  weak,  and  liable  to  break  with  much  strain,  I 
found  thejfi  strong  enough  for  purposes  of  the  same  kind.  The  Assyrians, 
like  the  Egyptians,  had  made  considerable  progress  in  rope  twisting,  an  art 
now  only  known  in  its  rudest  state  in  the  same  jiarl  of  the  East.  The 
cables  appear  to  be  of  great  length  and  thickness,  aud  ropes  of  various  di- 
raeitsinns  are  represented  in  the  sculptures.! 

•  See  next  page. 

t  It  may  be  rema.'ked,  that  precisely  the  same  framework  was  used  for  moving 

the  great  sculptures  in  the  Dritish  Museum, 
t  See  woo<Icut,  p.  87. 

4  AJtlioueh  111  tliese  baR-rt'licl's,  as  in  ntlirr  Assyrian  sculptures,  no  rei;ard  is  paid 
perspective,  llir  pr(p[i<iriii»ns  are  vrry  Wfll  kept.  I  must  n-IVr  my  reaflers  to  the 
.  series  of  the  Moiiuineiits  of  Nineveh  for  deiailcd  drawinjja  of  tliesc  luglily  intor- 

nting  sculptures. 

II  Sec  wuodcul  in  tlie  Abridgment  of  my  "Nineveh  and  its  Hemaina"  (p.  297.), 
bich  may  be  cxim|>areil  with  the  As-tyrian  baa-rrliefs,  to  show  the  iliflbrence  be- 
rcen  the  ancient  and  mwlem  tR'almeiit  of  a  subjert  almost  uk-ntnv 
Y  There  appears  to  l>e  a  curious  allusion  to  ropea  and  cables  of  diflerent  sizes,  and 


CHAr.  v.] 


kOyPTlAN  SCULPTURK. 


VJ 


I 


I  have  given,  for  the  sake  of  comparison,  a  woodcut  of  the  well-known 
painting  in  an  Egy])iian  grotto  at  £1  ficrshch  of  the  moving  of  a  colossal 
figure.*  It  will  show  how  the  Egjptians  and  Assyrians  represented  nearly 
a  similar  subject,  and  in  what  way  these  nations  diflered  in  their  mode  of 
artistic  treatment.  The  Egyptian  colossus  is  placed  upon  a  sledge  not  un- 
like  that  of  the  Assyrian  has-reliefs  in  form,  though  smaller  in  comparison 
with  the  size  of  the  figure,  which  appears  in  thiii  cuav  to  have  been  about 
twenty-four  feet  high.f  The  ropes,  foiur  in  number,  as  in  the  Kouyunjik 
sculptures,  are  all  fastened  to  the  fore-part  of  the  sledge,  and  are  pulled 
by  the  workmen  without  the  aid  of  smaller  cords.  The  absence  of  levers 
and  rollers  is  remarkable,  as  the  Egyptians  must  have  been  well  acquaint- 
ed with  the  use  of  both,  and  no  doubt  employed  them  for  moving  heavy 
weights. t  On  the  statue,  as  in  the  Assyrian  bas-reliefs,  stands  an  ofliccr, 
who  claps  his  hand  in  measured  time  to  regulate  the  motions  of  the  men, 
and  from  the  front  of  the  pedestal  another  pours  some  liquid,  probably 
grease,  on  the  ground,  to  facilitate  the  progress  of  the  sledge,  which  would 
scarcely  be  needed  were  rollers  nsed.^  As  in  Asayria,  the  workmen  in- 
cluded slaves  and  captives,  who  M-ere  accompanied  by  bands  of  armed  men. 

As  this  curious  representation  is  believed  to  be  of  the  time  of  Osirtasen 
II.,  a  king  of  the  seventeenth  dynasty,  who  reigned,  according  to  some,  about 
sixteen  centuries  before  Christ,  it  is  far  more  ancient  than  any  known  Aa- 
syri&Q  monument.  The  masses  of  solid  stone  moved  by  the  Egyptians 
also  far  exceeded  in  weight  any  sculpture  that  has  yet  been  dtBCovercd  in 
Assyria,  or  any  monolith  on  record  connected  M'ith  that  empire  ;  with  the 
exoeption,  perhaps,  of  the  celebrated  obelisk  which,  according  to  Diodorus 
Siculus,  was  brought  by  Semiramia  from  Armenia  to  Baby  Ion. jj  It  is  a  sin- 
gular fact,  that  whilst  the  quarries  of  Egypt  bear  witnew  of  themselves  to 
Htnpeudous  nature  of  the  works  of  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  the  country, 
still  show  on  their  sides  engraved  records  of  those  who  made  them,  no 

irt  tlieir  use  for  such  purposes  as  that  dcBcritjeiJ  in  the  text  in  Is-iinli,  v.  18.  "Woe 
unto  lliom  tliat  draw  iniiiuily  with  rordi  uf  vanity  and  sin  us  it  wiTt'  with  :i  cart  nrpi.'" 
A  most  inleresling  collection  of  ancient  Etiypium  iMtiiaiif  of  aliiiust  ever)'  kind  has 
lately  been  purcliascd  by  the  French  fJovenuneiii  frotn  <.;iot  Bey,  uiid  is  uuw  in  the 
houws. 

•  This  woodcut  haa  been  taken  from  a  drawing  by  Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson,  who 
haa  kindly  allowed  me  to  use  it.  It  is  more  correct  in  its  details  than  that  given  in 
hii)  work  on  the  Ancient  Egj'pti.ins,  vol.  iij.  p.  338. 

t  Wilkinson,  vol.  iii    p.  327. 

t  Herodotus  particularly  mentions  levers  in  his  account  of  the  traiiK|>orl  uf  the 
monoliUi  uf  .Sais  (lib.  ii.  176). 

<)  This  looks  as  if  the  sledge  were  moving  oir  an  inclined  way  of  boards  rnnstrucled 
for  Uie  purpose. 

II  A  colossus  of  granite  of  Rameses  II.,  at  the  Memnnnitim,  wfiglird,  when  entire, 
according  to  Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson,  8S7  tons;  nnil  the  stupendous  monrditli  in  the 
temple  of  Lntona,  at  Buto.  whieli,  according  to  Herodottis,  took  a(NK)  men  during  lliree 
entire  years  to  move  lo  its  place,  upu'ards  of  5o00.  [Wilkinson's  Am-ient  Egyptians, 
vol.  lit   |>  331.) 


98 


MNBVXH  AKO  RABYI.ON. 


tCH*P.   V. 


traces  whatever,  notwithetauiliiig  the  most  careful  research,  have  yet  been 
fouud  to  iudicate  Iroin  whence  the  builders  of  the  Aasyriaa  palaces  obtaioed 
their  large  slabs  of  alabaslor.  That  they  were  in  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood of  Nineveh  there  is  scarcely  any  reason  to  doubt,  as  strata  of  this  ma- 
terial, easily  accessible,  abound,  not  only  in  the  hills  but  in  the  (ilains.  This 
very  abundance  may  have  rendered  any  particular  quarry  unnecessary,  and 
blocks  were  jtrobably  taken  as  required  from  convenient  spots,  which  have 
since  been  covered  by  the  soil.  The  alabaster  now  used  at  Mosul  is  cut 
near  the  Sinjar  gate,  to  the  north-west  of  the  town.  The  blocks  are  rarely 
larger  than  can  be  earned  on  the  backs  of  horses,  These  quarries  also  sup- 
ply Baghdad,  where  this  material  is  much  prized  for  the  pavement  of  b&tha 
and  surdaubs,  or  underground  summer  apartments. 

There  can  bo  no  doubt,  as  will  hereafter  be  shown,  that  the  king  rep- 
resented as  superintending  the  building  of  the  mounds  and  the  placing  of 
the  colossal  bulls,  is  Sennacherib  himself,  and  that  the  sculptures  celebrate 
the  building  at  Nineveh  of  the  great  palace  and  its  adjacent  temples  de- 
scribed in  the  inscriptions  as  the  work  of  this  monarch.  The  bas-reliefs 
were  accompanied  in  most  instances  by  short  epigraphs  in  tho  cuneiform 
character,  containing  a  description  of  the  subject  with  the  name  of  the  city 
to  which  the  sculptures  were  brought.  The  great  inscriptions  on  the  hulls 
at  the  entrances  of  Kouyunjik  record,  it  would  seem,  not  only  historical 
events,  but,  with  great  minuteuess,  the  manner  in  which  the  edifice  itself 
was  erected,  its  general  plan,  and  tho  various  materials  employed  in  dec- 
orating the  halls,  chambers,  and  roofs.  When  completely  deciphered  they 
will  perhaps  enable  us  to  restore,  with  some  oonfidencc,  both  the  general 
plan  and  elevation  of  the  building. 

Unfortunately  only  fragments  of  these  epigraphs  have  been  preserved. 
From  them  it  would  appear  that  tho  transport  of  more  than  one  object  vi?ai 
represented  on  the  walls.  Besides  bulls  and  sphyuxes  in  stone  are  men- 
tioned figures  in  aomo  kind  of  wood,  perhaps  of  olive,  like  "  the  two  cher- 
ubims  of  olive  tree,  each  ten  cubits  high,"  in  the  temple  of  Solomon.* 
Over  the  king  superintending  the  removal  of  one  of  these  colossi  is  the  fol- 
lowing short  inscription,  thus  translated  by  Dr.  Hincks  : — 

"Sennacherib,  king  of  Assyria,  the  great  figures  of  bulls,  which  in  the 
land  of  Beiad  were  made  for  his  royal  palace  at  Nineveh,  he  transported 
thilher"  (?) 

The  land  of  Belad,  mentioned  in  these  inscriptions,  appears  to  have  been 
a  district  in  tho  immediate  vicinity  of  Nineveh,  and  probably  on  the  Tigris, 
as  these  great  masses  of  stone  would  havo  been  quarried  near  the  river  for 
the  greater  convenience  of  moving  them  to  the  palace.  The  distriot  of 
Belad  may  indeed  have  been  that  in  which  the  city  ilsclf  stood. 


•  1  Kings,  vi.  23.  I  shall  hereafter  compare  the  edifices  built  by  Solomon  with  the 
Assyrian  palaces,  and  point  out  the  remarkable  illustrations  of  the  Jewish  temple 
aflbrded  by  the  latter. 


Chap.  V] 


HOTINO  TBI  BULLS. 


99 


Over  the  representation  of  the  building  of  the  moand  there  were  two 
epigrnphe,  both  precisely  similar,  but  both  unfortunately  much  mutilated. 
As  far  as  they  can  be  restored,  they  have  thus  been  interpreted  by  Dr. 
Hincks : — 

"  Sennacherib,  king  of  Assyria.  Hewn  stones,  which,  as  the  gods* 
■willed,  were  found  in  the  laud  of  Belad,  i'or  the  vtUU  (?)  (or  foundations, 
the  word  reads  '  shibri')  of  my  palace,  /  caused  tlie  inhabitants  of  for- 
eign countries  (?)  and  the  people  of  the  forests  (Kershani),t  the  great  bulls 
for  the  gates  of  my  palace  to  drag  (?)  (or  bring)." 

If  this  inscription  be  rightly  rendered,  we  have  direct  evidence  that  cap- 
ilives  Irom  foreign  countries  were  employed  in  the  great  public  works  un- 
dertaken by  the  Assyrian  kings,  as  we  were  led  to  infer,  from  the  variety 
of  costume  represented  in  the  bas-reliefs,  and  from  the  letters  on  the  legs 
of  some  of  the  workmen.  The  Jews  themselves,  after  their  captivity,  may 
have  been  thus  condemned  to  labor,  as  their  ibrefuthers  had  been  m  Egypt, 
in  erecting  the  monuments  of  their  conquerors ;  and  wo  may,  perhaps,  rec- 
ognise them  amongst  the  builders  portrayed  in  the  sculptures.  Two  dis- 
tmct  objects  appear  to  be  mentioned  in  these  epigraphs — unhewn,  or  mere- 
ly squared,  stones  for  walls  or  foundations,  and  the  colossal  bulls  for  the 
entrances ;  unless  some  of  the  small  stones  carried  on  the  backs  of  the 
workmen  are  intended  by  the  former,  wo  find  only  the  colossi  represented 
in  the  bas-reliefs. 

From  the  long  gallery,  which  appears  to  have  been  panelled  with  bas- 
reliels.  describing  the  removal  of  more  than  one  object  employed,  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  palace,  we  have  unfortunately  only  three  fragments  of  in- 
scriptions without  the  sculptured  representations  of  the  events  recorded. 
The  most  perfect  is  interesting  on  more  ihau  one  account.  According  to 
Dr.  Hincks  it  is  to  be  translated  : — 

"  Sennacherib,  king  of  Assyria  ....  (some  object,  the  nature 
not  ascertained)  of  wood,  which  from  the  Tigris  I  caused  to  be  brought  up 
{through?)  the  Kharri,  or  Khasri,  on  sledges  (or  boats),  I  caused  to  be  car- 
ried (or  to  mount)." 

Tho  name  of  the  river  in  this  inscription  very  nearly  resembles  that  of 
the  small  stream  which  sweeps  round  tho  foot  of  the  great  mound  of  Kou- 
yunjik,  In  the  woodcut  of  tho  king  superintending  tho  removal  of  the 
bull.t  it  uill  be  perceived  that  two  rivers,  a  smaller  running  into  a  larger, 
,,|ippear  to  be  rudely  represented.  They  correspond  with  the  actual  posi- 
tion of  the  Tigris  and  Khauscr  beneath  Kouyunjik.  It  is  possible,  there- 
fore, that  tho  latter  stream  was  deepened  or  enlarged,  so  as  to  enable  the 
Assyrians  to  float  heavy  masses  close  to  the  mound  ;  and  front  the  bas- 
nlief  it  would  appear  that  the  buU  was  moved  from  the  very  edge  of  the 

*  A  peculiar  deity  ia  mentioned  who  probably  prnsidiid  over  the  earth,  but  his  name 
la  as  yet  unknown  ;  it  is  here  denoted  b;  a  monogram. 

t  Coinpare  the  Hebrew  \&'\p,  kherah,  a  thick  wood,  or,  perhaps,  fjll,  n  stone-cut- 
ter, or  a  workman  m  stone  or  wood.  j  Antt,  jiage  93. 


100 


NTNEVBH  AND  ttABWOH. 


[Chap.  V. 


water  up  the  artificial  declivity.  At  that  time,  however,  the  Tigris  waa 
nearer  to  the  pnliice  than  it  now  is  to  the  ruins,  its  cuursc  having  varied 
considerably  at  diH'erent  periods ;  but  its  ancient  bed  is  still  indicated  by 
recent  alltivial  deposits. 

In  the  fragment  of  another  epigraph,  we  have  mention  of  some  objects 
also  of  wood  "  brought  from  Mount  Lebanon,  and  taken  up  (to  the  top  of 
the  mound)  from  the  Tigris."  These  may  have  been  beams  of  cedar, 
which,  it  will  be  herfalter  B<.'en,  were  extensiveiy  used  in  the  Assyrian  pal- 
aces. It  is  highly  interesting  thus  to  find  the  inhabitants  of  Nineveh  fetch- 
ing their  rare  and  precious  woods  from  the  same  sp<3l  that  king  Solomon 
had  bronght  the  choicest  woodwork  of  the  temple  of  the  Lord  and  of  his 
own  palaces. 

On  a  third  fragment  similar  objects  are  described  as  coming  from  or  up 
the  same  Kharri  or  Kliasri. 

I  have  mentioned  that  the  long  gallery  containing  the  bas-relief  repre* 
senting  the  moving  of  the  great  stone,  led  out  of  a  chamber,  whose  walls 
had  been  completely  uncovered.*  The  sculptures  upon  them  were  partly 
preserved,  and  recorded  the  conquest  of  a  city  standing  on  a  broad  river, 
in  the  midst  of  mountains  and  forests.  The  Assyrians  appear  to  have  en- 
tered the  enemy's  country  by  a  valley,  to  have  forded  the  stream  fre(|uent- 
ly,  and  to  have  continued  during  their  march  along  its  banks.  Warriors 
on  foot  ted  their  horses,  and  dragged  the  chariots  over  precipitous  rocks. 
On  each  side  of  the  river  were  wooded  hills,  with  small  streams  flowing 
amongst  vineyards.  As  they  drew  near  to  the  city,  the  Aesyrians  cut  down 
the  woods  to  clear  the  approaches.  Amongst  the  branches  of  a  tree  ex- 
ceeding the  others  in  size,  and  standing  immediately  beneath  the  walls, 
were  birds  and  two  nests  containing  tlieir  young.  The  sculptor  probjibly 
introduced  these  accessories  to  denote  the  season  of  the  year.  The  river 
appeared  to  flow  through  or  behind  the  city.  Long  low  walls  with  equi- 
distant towers,  the  whole  surmounted  by  cornices  and  angular  battlements, 
stood  on  one  side  of  the  stream.  Within  the  walla  were  large  square  build- 
ings, curiously  ornamented,  and  whose  windows,  immediately  beneath  the 
roof,  were  formed  by  small  pillars  with  capitals  in  the  form  of  the  louic 
volute.  The  doors,  except  the  entrance  1o  the  castle  which  was  arched, 
were  square,  and,  in  some  instances,  surmounted  by  a  plain  cornice.  That 
part  oftlie  city  standing  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  seemed  to  consist 
of  a  number  of  detached  furls  and  houses,  some  of  which  had  also  open 
balustrades  to  admit  the  light.  Flames  issued  from  the  dwellings,  and  on 
the  towers  were  men  apparently  culling  down  trees  growing  within  the 
walls.  Assyrian  warriors,  marching  in  a  long  line,  carried  away  the  spoil 
from  the  burning  city.  Some  were  laden  with  arms  ;  others  with  funii- 
ture,  chairs,  stools,  couches,  and  tables  of  various  forms,  ornamented  with 
the  heads  and  feet  of  animals.  They  were  probably  of  metal,  perhaps  of 
gold  or  silver.  The  couches,  or  beds,  bonie  by  two  men,  had  a  curved 
•  No.  XLVIII.  Pltm  I     Sec  .Monuments  of  Nineveh,  2d  scries,  Plate  40. 


Ohap.  V-l 


A  OATKWAY  OP  MM8VBH. 


wt 


kkead.     Some  of  the  chairs  had  high  backs,  aud  the  tablet  resembled  in 
[thape  the  modem  cainp-stool. 

The  last  bas-relief  of  the  series  represented  the  king  seated  within  a  for- 
ttiBcd  camp,  on  a  throne  of  elaborate  workmanship,  and  having  beneath  his 
'feel  a  footstool  of  equally  elegant  form.     He  was  receiving  the  captives, 
who  wore  long  robes  fulling  to  their  ankles.     Unfortunately  no  inscription 
remained  by  which  we  might  identify  the  conquered  nation.     It  is  proba- 
ble, from  the  nature  of  the  country  represented,  that  they  inhabited  some 
.district  in  the  westcra  part  of  Asia  Minor  or  in  Armenia,  in  which  direc- 
'  tiou,  as  we  shall  hcreafler  see,  Sennacherib  more  than  once  carried  his  vic- 
torious arms.     The  circular  fortified  walls  enclose  tents,  within  which  are 
■een  men  engaged  in  various  domestic  occupations. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  excavatiauis  had  been  resumed  in  a  lofty 
mound  in  the  north-west  lino  of  walls  forming  the  enclosnro  round  Kou- 
yunjik.  It  was  apparently  the  remains  of  a  gate  leading  into  this  quarter 
of  the  city,  and  part  of  a  building,  with  fragments  of  two  colossal  winged 
figures,*  had  already  been  discovered  in  it.  By  the  end  of  November  the 
whole  had  been  explored,  and  the  results  were  of  considerable  interest.  As 
the  mound  rises  nearly  fifty  feet  above  the  plain,  we  were  obliged  to  tunnel 
ftlong  the  walls  of  the  building  within  it.  through  a  compact  mass  of  rub- 
bish, consisting  almost  entirely  of  loose  bricks.  Following  the  rows  of  low 
limestone  slabs,  from  the  south  side  of  the  mound,  and  passing  through  two 
halls  or  chambers,  we  came  at  length  to  the  opfjosite  entrance.  This  gate- 
way, facing  the  open  country,  was  formed  by  a  pair  of  majestic  human- 
headed  bulls,  fourteen  feet  iit  length,  still  entire,  though  cracked  and  in- 
jured by  fire.  They  were  similar  in  form  to  those  of  Khorsabad  and  Kou- 
yunjik,  wearing  the  lofty  head-dress,  richly  ornamented  with  rosettes,  and 
edged  with  a  fringe  of  leathers  peculiar  to  that  period.  Wide  Epreadiug 
wings  rose  above  their  backs,  and  their  breasts  and  bodies  were  profusely 
adorned  with  curled  hair.  Behind  them  were  colossal  winged  figures  of 
the  same  height,  bearing  tliio  pine  cone  and  basket.  Their  faces  were  in 
full,  and  the  relief  was  high  and  bold.  More  knowledge  of  art  was  shown 
in  the  outline  of  the  limbs  and  in  the  duliueation  of  the  muscles,  than  in 
any  sculpture  I  have  seen  of  this  period.  The  naked  leg  and  foot  were 
designed  with  a  spirit  and  truthfulness  worthy  of  a  Greek  artist. t  It  is, 
however,  remarkable  that  the  four  figures  were  unfiriisheil,  none  of  ihe 
details  having  been  put  in.  and  parts  being  but  roughly  outlined.  They 
stood  as  if  the  sculptors  had  been  interrupted  by  some  public  calamity,  and 
had  left  their  work  incomplete.  Perhaps  the  murder  of  Sennacherib  by 
his  sons,  as  he  worshipped  in  the  house  of  Nisroch  his  god,  put  a  sudden 

*  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  i.  p.  14fi. 

t  The  bidls  and  winged  fignircB  resembled  those  from  Khorsabad,  now  in  the  great 
hall  at  the  British  Museum,  but  Tar  exceeded  them  m  beauty  and  grandeur,  as  well 
as  in  preservation.  As  nearly  similar  lii^'iireti  had  thus  already  been  aenl  to  England, 
I  did  not  think  it  advisable  to  remuve  tbein 


102 


Nn«[VEa  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  V. 


•top  to  the  great  undertakings  he  had  oomtnenoed  in  the  beginning  of  his 
reign. 

The  sculptures  to  the  left,  on  entering  from  the  open  country,  were  in  a 
far  more  unfinished  state  than  those  on  the  opijosite  side.  The  hair  and 
beard  wore  but  roughly  [narked  out,  square  bosses  being  lelt  for  carving  the 
elaborate  curls.  The  horned  cap  of  the  human-headed  bull  was,  as  yet, 
unornamented,  and  the  wings  merely  outlined.  The  limbs  and  features 
were  hard  and  angular,  slill  requiring  to  be  rounded  oil,  and  to  have  ex- 
pression given  to  them  by  the  finishing  touch  of  the  artist.  The  other  two 
figures  were  more  perfect.  The  curls  of  the  beard  and  hair  (except  on  one 
side  of  the  head  of  the  gianl)  and  the  ornamentB  of  the  head-dree-s  had  been 
complelt'd.  The  limbs  of  the  winged  deity  and  the  body  and  legs  of  the 
bull  had  been  sufficiently  finished  to  give  a  bold  and  majestic  character  to 
the  figures,  which  might  have  been  rather  lessened  than  improved  by  the 
addition  of  details.  The  wings  of  the  giant  were  merely  in  outline.  The 
sculptor  had  begun  to  mark  out  the  feathers  in  those  of  the  bull,  but  had 
been  interrupted  after  finishing  one  row  and  commencing  a  second.*  No 
inscription  had  yet  been  carved  on  either  sciilpliire. 

The  entrance  formed  by  these  colossal  bulls  was  fourteen  feet  and  a 
quarter  wide.  It  was  paved  with  large  slabs  of  limestone,  still  bearing 
the  marks  of  chariot  wheels.  The  sculptures  were  buried  in  a  mass  of 
brick  and  earth,  mingled  with  charcoal  and  charred  wood  ;  for  "  the  gates 
of  the  land  had  been  set  wide  open  unto  the  enemy,  and  the  fire  had  de- 
voured the  bar8."t  They  were  lighted  from  above  by  a  deep  shaft  sunk 
from  the  top  of  the  mound.  It  would  be  difficult  to  deecribe  the  eflijcl  pro- 
duced, or  the  reflections  suggested  by  these  solemn  and  majestic  figures, 
dimly  visible  amidst  the  gloom,  when,  after  winding  through  the  dark,  un- 
derground passages,  you  suddenly  came  into  their  presence.  Between  them 
Sennacherib  and  his  hosts  had  gone  forth  in  all  their  might  and  glory  to 
the  conquest  of  distant  lands,  and  had  returned  rich  with  spoit  and  cap- 
tivcs,  amongst  whom  may  have  been  the  handmaidens  and  wealth  of  Is- 
rael. Through  them,  loo,  the  Assyrian  monarch  had  entered  his  capital  in 
shame,  alter  his  last  and  fatal  defeat.  Then  the  lofty  walls,  now  but  long 
lines  of  low,  wave-like  mounds,  had  stretched  far  to  the  right  and  to  the 
left — a  basement  of  stone  supporting  a  curtain  of  solid  brick  masonry, 
crowned  with  battlements  and  studded  with  frowning  towers. 

This  entrance  may  have  been  arched  tike  the  castle  gates  of  the  bas-re- 
liela,  and  the  mass  of  burnt  bricks  around  the  sculptures  may  be  the  re- 
mains of  the  vault.  A  high  tower  evidently  rose  above  this  gate,  which 
formed  the  great  northern  access  to  this  quarter  of  Nineveh. 

Behind  the  colossal  figures,  and  between  the  outer  and  inuer  face  of  the 
gateway,  were  two  chambers,  nearly  70  feet  in  length  by  23  iu  breadth. 

*  See  Plate  3.  of  the  second  spries  of  ihe  Monamenis  of  Nineveh.  'Ilie  giant  is 
correctly  represented  in  its  unJinisiied  state  in  this  ptale,  but  the  artist  by  mistake 
has  filled  up  the  details  in  the  wings  of  the  bulls.  i  Nalium,  lii.  13. 


Chap.  V] 


TNBCOVBRIES  IN  HIGH  MOITNO. 


tDS 


Of  that  part  of  the  entrance  which  wa«  within  the  walls,  only  the  frag- 
menta  of  winged  figures,  discovered  during  my  previoua  researches,  now  re- 
mained.* '  It  ia  prohablu,  however,  that  a  second  pair  of  hiimau-hcadcd 
bulls  once  stood  there.  They  may  have  been  "the  figures  of  animals,"  de- 
scribed to  Mr.  Rich  as  having  been  casually  uncovered  ia  this  mound,  and 
which  were  broken  up  nearly  Hfty  years  ago  to  furnish  materials  for  the  re- 
pair of  a  bridge. t 


I 


-nr 


'unfrd/^iMrr      li 


'  ?    J     \n    f 


.jia. 


UfttfJlMntl 
Plan  ofltiortlicrn  Bnlnnrr  to  Inrlomre  of  Kini]run)lk 

The  whole  entrance  thus  consisted  of  two  distinct  chambers  and  three 
gateways,  two  formed  by  human-headed  bulls,  and  a  third  between  them 
simply  panelled  with  low  limestone  slabs  like  the  chambers.  Its  original 
height,  including  the  tower,  must  have  been  full  one  hundred  feet.  Most 
of  the  baked  bricks  found  amongst  the  rubbish  bore  the  name  of  Senna- 
cherib, the  builder  of  the  palace  of  Kouyuiijik.  A  similar  gateway,  but 
without  any  remains  of  sculptured  figureR,  and  panelle<l  with  plain  ainbaBter 
•Jabs,  was  subsequently  discovered  in  the  inner  line  of  walk  forming  the 
eastern  side  of  the  quadrangle,  where  the  road  to  Baashiekhah  and  Baazani 
leaves  the  ruins. 

At  Ntmroud  discoveries  of  verj'  considerable  importance  were  made  in 
the  liigh  cotiieal  inouiid  at  the  north-west  corner.  Desirous  of  fully  explor- 
lug  that  nemarkablo  mm,  I  had  employed  nearly  all  the  workmen  in  open- 
ing a  tuntiel  into  its  western  base.  After  penetrating  for  no  less  than 
eighty-four  feet  through  a  compact  mass  of  rubbish.  eom])05ed  of  loose  grav- 
el, earth,  burnt  bricks,  and  fragments  of  stone,  the  excavators  came  to  a 


*  See  Nmcveli  and  its  Kcmatns,  vol.  L  p.  143. 

t  See  Rich's  Residence  in  Kurdistan  and  Ninercli,  vul.  ii.  p.  39. 


/  latit/ni  rfin/fi6rr  or  f ami . 

'J.  Ermvntn/  (unnH  ■ 

3  Basf/nrnl  Jftone  tfrtU . 

i  Bricft  ou/sir/e  »n//  ■ 

3. .  iftiJix  o^xtai  rfriffl  irtrks . 

6.  ■  Irti/iriaf  P(at/onn  omtouiuf. 

7  Erirf/i  mirtdm-UJi  a /ftr fntf/mf/its  ofhmiis, 

.f .  KnHA  niijrti Uil/>jhtymntf.i  of 

trrri-   Wanr  niiri  he/n't. 
S.  tint  o/^f/tpo^f  oj' hrt/irn  bnrk 
/e  thin  liw  o/'/ifbife  i/ffiet/f. 

//.    Olt/UKf. 

/J*.  Lm'sr  ifmrr/. 

/y. .  \f»fiijyi/  ranffloinrmff. 

/t.  Ihiiplr  ti  t>/'pirt»  . 

li.  Lfivi u/ .  Mrnnmrt MOMnf/ . 


soi'ARi".  i^wilTIsmiJ.  rairLES 

:^^^  ONWJK  '^-^i: 
N'i)rth.sitli'  ot'tlip  Mtutnd  of  Nimroiul .  • 


55*.. 


/</>  o/.CoYJrtl-*  .  l/ny«.,  |/a»i„» 


Chap.  V.J 


DISCOVERY  OF  TOWER. 


105 


wall  of  solid  stone  masonry.  The  manner  in  which  this  structure  had 
been  buried  is  so  curious,  that  I  have  given  a  section  ot'  the  diilerent  strata 
through  which  the  tunnel  passed.*  1  have  already  observed  that  the  edi- 
fice covered  by  tliis  high  mound  was  originally  built  upon  the  natural  rock, 
a  bank  of  hard  conglomerate  rising  about  hl'teeu  feet  above  the  plain,  and 
washed  in  days  of  yore  by  the  waters  of  the  Tigris.  Our  tuuuel  was  car- 
ried for  thirty-four  feet  on  a  level  with  this  Twk,  which  appears  to  have 
been  covcrod  by  a  kind  of  tlooring  of  sun-driod  bricks,  probably  once  form- 
ing a  platform  in  front  of  the  building.  It  was  buried  to  the  distance  of 
thirty  feet  from  the  wall,  by  baked  bricks  broken  and  entire,  and  by  frag- 
ments of  stone,  remains  of  the  superstructure  once  resting  upon  the  b.n8«- 
nient  of  still  existing  stone  masonr)'.  This  mass  of  rubblBh  was  about 
thirty  feet  high,  and  in  it  were  found  bones  apparently  human,  and  a  yel- 
low earthen  jar  rudely  colored  with  simple  black  designs. t  The  rest  of 
this  part  of  the  mound  consisted  of  earth,  through  which  ran  two  thin  lines 
of  extraneous  deposit,  one  of  pebbles,  the  other  of  fragments  of  brick  and  pot- 
ter}',    I  am  totally  at  a  loss  to  account  for  their  furmation. 

I  ordered  tunnels  to  be  carried  along  the  basement  wall  in  both  direc- 
tions, hoping  to  reach  some  doorway  or  entrance,  but  it  was  found  to  con- 
sist of  solid  masonry,  extending  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  mound.  Its 
height  was  exactly  twenty  feet,  which,  singulurly  enough,  coincides  with 
that  assigned  by  Xcnophon  to  the  stone  basement  of  the  wall  of  the  city 
(Lari&sa).}  It  was  fmtshed  at  the  top  by  a  line  of  gradines,  forming  a  kind 
of  ornamental  battlement,  similar  to  those  represented  on  castles  in  the  sculjf- 


ture.     r^     '" 


These  gradines  had  fallen,  and  some  of  them  were  dis- 


covered in  the  rubbish.^  The  stones  in  this  structure  were  carefully  fitted 
together,  though  not  united  with  mortar,  unless  the  earth  which  filled  the 
crevices  was  the  remains  of  mud  used,  as  it  still  is  in  the  country,  as  a  ce- 
ment. They  were  bevelled  with  a  slanting  bevel,  and  in  the  face  of  the 
wall  were  eight  recesses  or  false  windows,  four  on  each  side  of  a  square 
projecting  block  between  gradines. 

The  basement,  of  which  this  wall  proved  to  be  only  one  face,  was  not  ex- 
cavated on  the  northern  and  eastern  aide  until  a  later  period,  but  I  will  de- 
scribe all  the  discoveries  connected  with  this  singular  building  at  once. 
The  northern  side  was  of  the  same  height  as,  and  resembled  in  its  masonry, 
the  western.  It  had  a  semicircular  hollow  projection  in  the  centre,  sixteen 
feet  in  diameter,  on  the  east  side  of  which  were  two  recesses,  and  on  the 
west  four,  so  that  the  two  ends  of  the  wall  were  not  uniform  That  part 
of  the  basement  against  which  the  great  artificial  mound  or  platUirni  ubut- 

•  See  section  of  conical  moiinti,  Plan  II. 

t  Tlie.»e  reUcs  may  have  lielonged  to  tombs  niado  in  the  mnund  aftfr  tlie  mlifice 
fwd  fallen  into  ruins.  t  Anab.  lib.  in.  c.  4, 

^  Part  of  a  wall,  precisely  similar  in  conslnintion,  aiill  exists  on  one  side  of  the 
great  moaud  of  Kalah  Sherghat.     tNioeveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  li.  p.  61.) 


106 


xmSVEH  AJJD  BABTLOH. 


(Cbap.  y. 


ted,  and  which  was  consequently  concealed  by  it.  that  is,  the  eastern  aH 
southern  sides,  was  ofsitnple  stone  masonry  without  recesses  or  ornament 
The  upper  part  of  the  edifice,  resting  on  the  stone  substructure,  consisted 
of  compact  masonry  of  burnt  bricks,  which  were  mostly  inscribed  with  the 
name  of  the  founder  of  the  centre  palace  (the  obelisk  king),  the  inscription 
being  in  many  instances  turned  outwards. 

It  was  thus  evident  that  the  high  conical  mound  forming  the  north-' 
corner  of  the  ruins  of  Nimroud,  was  the  remains  of  a  square  tower,  and 
of  a  pyramid,  as  had  previously  been  conjectured.     The  lower  part,  built 
solid  stone  masonry,  had  withstood  the  wreck  of  ages,  but  the  upper  wa 
of  burnt  brick,  and  the  inner  mass  of  sun-dried  brick  which  the)*  enca 
fallinfi  outwards,  and  having  been  subsequently  covered  with  earth  and  veg" 
elation,  the  ruin  had  taken  the  pyramidal  form  that  loose  materials  falling 
in  this  manner  would  naturally  assume. 

It  is  very  probable  that  this  ruin  represents  the  tomb  of  Sardanapalus, 
which,  according  to  the  Greek  geographers,  stood  at  the  entrance  of  the  city 
of  Nineveh.     It  will  hereafter  be  seen  that  it  is  not  imjiossible  the  builder 
of  the  north-west  palace  of  Nimroud  was  a  king  of  that  name,  although  it 
is  doubtful  whether  he  can  be  identified  with  the  historical  Sardanapalus. 
Subsequent  discoveries  proved  that  ho  must  himself  have  raised  the  stone 
substructure,  although  his  son,  whose  name  is  found  upon  the  bricks,  com- 
pleted the  building.     It  was,  of  course,  natural  to  conjecture  that  some 
traces  of  the  chamber  in  which  the  royal  remains  were  deposited,  were  to 
be  found  in  the  ruin,  and  I  determined  to  examine  it  as  fully  as  I  was  able. 
Having  first  ascertained  the  exact  centre  of  the  western  stone  basement,  I 
there  forced  a  passage  through  it.     This  was  a  work  of  some  diHiculty,  as 
the  wall  was  fl  ft.  9  in.  thick,  and  strongly  built  of  large  rough  stones. 
Having,  however,  accomplished  this  step,  I  carried  a  tunnel  completely- 
through  the  mound,  at  its  very  base,  and  on  a  level  with  the  natural  roe 
until  wc  reached  the  opposite  basement  wall,  at  a  distance  of  150  f« 
Nothing  having  been  discovered  by  this  cutting,  1  directed  a  second  to 
made  at  right  angles  to  it,  crossing  it  exactly  in  the  centre,  and  react 
ing  from  the  northern  to  the  southern  basement ;  but  without  any  discot 
ery.     At  the  point  where  ihey  intersected,  and  therefore  precisely  in  the 
centre  of  the  building,  I  dug  down  through  the  solid  conglomerate  to  the 
depth  of  five  feet,  but  without  finding  any  traces  whatever  of  an  ancient 
disturbance  of  the  soil.    I  was  unable  to  make  further  excavations  in  thi| 
part  of  the  ruin,  on  account  of  the  enormous  mass  of  superincumbent  earth' 
and  the  great  risk  to  which  the  men  were  exposed  from  its  fulling  in.* 

The  next  cutting  was  made  in  the  centre  of  the  mound,  on  a  line  with 
the  top  of  the  stone  basement  wall,  which  was  also  the  level  of  the  plat- 
form of  the  north-west  palace.     The  workmen  soon  came  to  a  narrow  gal- 

•  The  walls,  as  well  as  thf  vault,  were  of  gun-dried  hricks.  !l  is  curious  that 
Iween  one  row  of  hricks  wax  a  layer  of  rocds,  as  in  the  Babylonian  ruins ;  the  o 
instance  of  this  mode  of  construction  yet  met  with  in  Assyria. 


MM 


im 


aiMKVEU  AND  BilBVXON. 


tCHAP.  y. 


Icry,  about  100  feel  long,  12  feel  high,  and  ti  feet  broad,  which  was  blocked 
up  at  the  two  euds  without  any  entrunee  being  lefl  iiilo  it.  It  was  vaulted 
with  sun-dried  bricks,  a.  further  proof  of  the  use  of  the  arch  at  a  very 
early  period,  and  the  vault  had  in  one  or  two  places  fallen  in.  No  remains 
whatever  were  I'ouiul  in  it,  neilher  fragments  of  sculpture  or  inscription,  nor 
any  smaller  relic.  There  were,  however,  uitdoubtoci  traces  of  its  having 
once  been  broken  into  on  the  western  side,  by  digging  into  the  face  of  the 
mound  after  the  edifice  was  iu  ruins,  and  consequently,  therefore,  long  after 
the  fall  of  the  Assjiian  empire.  There  was  an  evident  depression  in  the  ex- 
terior of  the  mound,  which  could  be  perceived  by  an  observer  from  the  plai«i, 
and  the  interior  vault  had  been  forced  through.  The  remains  which  it  may 
have  contained,  probably  the  embalmod  body  of  the  king,  with  vessels  of 
precious  metals  and  other  objects  of  value  buried  with  it,  had  been  carried 
olfby  those  who  had  openeil  the  tomb  at  some  remote  period,  iu  search  of 
troasure.  They  must  have  had  some  clue  to  the  precise  position  of  the 
chamber,  or  how  could  they  have  dug  Into  the  mound  exactly  at  the  right 
spot?  Had  this  deiioititary  of  the  dead  escaped  earlier  violation,  who  can 
tell  with  what  valuable  and  important  relics  of  Assyrian  art  or  Assyriaa 
history  it  might  have  furnished  us?  I  explored,  with  feelings  of  great  dis- 
appointment, the  empty  chamber,  and  then  opened  other  tunnels,  without 
further  results,  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  mound. 

It  was  evident  that  the  long  gallery  or  chamber  I  have  described  was 
the  plaee  of  deposit  for  the  body  of  the  king,  if  this  were  really  his  tomb. 
The  tunnels  and  cuttings  in  other  parts  of  the  mound  only  exposed  a  com- 
pact and  solid  mass  of  sun-dried  brick  masonr)'.  I  much  doubt,  for  many 
reasons,  whether  any  sepulchre  exists  in  the  rock  beneath  the  foundations  of 
the  tower,  though,  of  course,  it  is  not  im}H>BBible  that  such  may  be  the  case.* 

From  the  present  state  of  the  ruin  it  is  dittioult  to  conjecture  the  exact 
original  form  and  height  of  this  edifice.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  was 
a  vast  square  tower,  and  it  is  not  improbable  that  it  may  have  terminated 
in  a  series  of  three  or  more  gradinea,  like  the  obelisk  of  black  marble  from 
the  centre  palace  now  in  the  British  Museum.  It  is  this  shape  that  I  have 
ventured  to  give  it,  in  a  gcueral  restoration  of  the  platform  ofl^imroud  and 
its  various  edifices, t     Like  the  palaces,  too,  it  was  probably  painted  oa  the 

*  Col.  Rawlinson,  remarks  in  his  memoir  on  the  "  OutUnes  of  Assyrian  History" 
(published  by  the  Royid  Asiatic  Society  in  18SS),thBt  "tlic  great  pyranucl  at  Ntinroud 
was  erected  l>y  the  son  of  ttie  builder  of  the  north-west  pajacp ;"  and  as  tlie  Greeks 
name  thai  innnument  tbi»  lomb  of  Sardanapalu.'*,  lie  believes  that  "  a  shaft  stink  into 
the  centre  of  the  nwiind,  and  carried  down  to  the  foiindnlinns,  would  lav  hare  the 
oriKiiiid  septitclire.  The  diflifiiltica  (lie  adds)  of  sncli  an  «p<'ration  have  hithertu  pre- 
vented iiB  execution,  but  the  idea  is  not  altugether  iiliandoncd."  He  appt'ars  thus, 
curiously  enough,  to  tie  igniirant  of  the  excavatiimH  in  that  ruin  dcseribed  in  the  text, 
although  he  had  just  visited  Niiuroud.  The  only  Likely  place  not  yet  examined  would 
be  beneath  the  very  foucidations. 

t  In  the  frontispiece  to  the  2d  series  of  the  Monumenta  ofNineveh.  I  am  indebted 
to  Mr.  Fergnsson,  who  was  good  enough  to  make  the  original  drawing,  for  this  res- 
toration so  abljr  executed  by  Mr.  Qaines. 


■^ 


Chap.  V.l 


YSZIDI  AUkRM. 


109 


outside  with  various  inythic  ligures  and  devices,  and  its  Bummit  may  havo 
been  crowned  by  an  altar,  on  which  the  Assyriau  king  ofil-red  up  his  great 
Bicritjces,  or  on  which  was  fed  the  ever-burning  sacred  fire.  But  1  will 
defer  any  further  remarks  upon  this  subject  until  I  treat  of  the  architecture 
of  the  Aseyriaiis. 

As  the  ruin  is  140  feet  high,  the  building  could  scarcely  have  been  much 
less  than  200,  whilst  the  immense  mnss  of  rubbish  surrounding  and  cuver- 
iog  the  ba<e  shows  that  it  might  have  been  considerably  more. 

During  the  two  months  in  which  the  greater  part  of  the  discoveries  de- 
scribed in  this  chapter  were  made,  I  was  occupied  almost  entirely  with  the 
eicavations,  my  time  being  spent  between  Nimroud  and  Kouyunjik.  The 
only  incidents  worth  noting  were  a  visit  from  Hussein  Bey,  Sheikh  Nblsi, 
and  the  principal  chiefs  of  the  Yezidis,  and  a  Journey  taken  with  Hormuzd 
to  Khonsabad  and  the  neighbouring  ruina. 

The  heads  of  the  Yczidi  sect  came  to  Mosul  to  settle  some  differences 
with  the  Turkish  authorities  about  the  conscription.  They  lotlged  in  my 
house.  Sheikh  Nasr  had  only  once  before  ventured  into  the  town,  and 
then  but  for  a  few  hours.  To  treat  them  with  due  honor  I  gave  an  enter- 
tainment, and  initiated  them  into  the  luxuries  of  Turkish  cookery.  Wo 
feasted  in  the  I  wan,  an  arched  hall  open  to  the  courtyard,  which  was 
lighted  up  at  night  with  mashaals,  or  bundles  of  flaming  rags  saturated 
with  bitumen,  and  raised  in  iron  baskets  on  high  poles,  casting  a  Hood  of 
rich  ani  light  upon  surrounding  objects.  TUe  Yezidis  performed  their 
dances  to  Mosul  music  before  the  chiefs.  Suddenly  the  doors  were  thrown 
open,  and  a  band  of  Arabs,  stripped  to  the  waist,  brandishing  their  weapons 
and  shouting  their  war-cry,  rushed  into  the  yard.  The  Yezidis  believed 
that  they  had  been  betrayed,  The  young  chief  drew  his  sword  ;  and  even 
Sheikh  Naar,  springing  to  his  fed,  prepared  to  defend  himself  Their 
fears,  however,  gave  way  to  a  hearty  laugh,  when  they  learnt  that  the  in- 
trudera  were  a  band  of  my  workmen,  who  had  been  iflstigated  by  Mr. 
Hormuzd  Rassam  thus  to  alarm  my  guests. 

Wishing  to  visit  Baasheikhali,  Khorsabad,  and  other  ruins  at  the  foot  of 
the  range  of  low  hills  of  the  tJebel  Makloub,  I  left  Nirnroud  on  the  26th 
of  November  with  Hormuzd  and  the  Bairakdar.  Four  hours'  ride  brought 
us  to  some  small  artificial  mounds  near  the  village  of  Lak,  about  three 
miles  to  the  east  of  the  high  roiul  to  Mosul.  Here  wo  jbund  a  party  of 
workmen  excavating  under  one  of  the  Christian  superintendents.  Nothing 
had  been  discovered  except  fragments  of  pottery  and  a  few  bricks  bearing 
the  name  of  the  Kouyunjik  king.  As  the  ruins,  from  their  size,  did  not 
promise  other  results,  I  sent  the  men  back  to  Mosul.  Wo  reached  Khorsa- 
bad  after  riding  for  nearly  eight  hours  over  a  rich  plain,  capable  of  very 
high  cultivation,  though  wanting  in  water,  and  still  well  stocked  with  vil- 
lages, between  which  we  startled  targe  flocks  of  gazelles  and  buslarda.  I 
had  sent  one  of  my  overseers  there  some  days  before  to  uncover  the  platform 
to  the  west  of  the  principal  edifice,  a  part  of  the  building  I  was  desirous  of 


MNEVKH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  V 


exuniiuDg.  Whilst  clearing  away  the  rubbish,  he  had  discovered  two 
bas-reliefs  sculptured  in  black  stone.  They  represented  a  hunting  scene. 
On  one  slab,  broken  into  several  pieces,  was  an  LMinuch  discharging  an  ar- 
row at  a  flying  bird,  probably  a  pigeon  or  partridge.  He  was  dressed  in  a 
fringed  robe,  confined  at  the  waist  by  a  girdle,  and  a  short  sword  hung 
from  his  shoulder  by  a  broad  and  richly  ornamented  belt.  The  ends  of  hh 
bow  were  in  the  shape  of  the  heads  of  birds.  Behind  the  archer  were  two 
figures,  one  carrj'ing  a  gazelle  over  his  shoulder  and  a  hare  in  his  hand, 
the  other  wearing  an  embroidered  tunic,  and  armed  with  a  bow  and  arrows. 
In  the  hark  ground  were  trees,  and  birds  flying  amongst  them.*  On  the 
second  slab  were  huntsmen  carrying  birds,  spears,  and  bows 

These  bas-reliefs  were  executed  with  much  truth  and  spirit.  They  be- 
longed lo  a  small  building,  believed  to  be  a  temple,  entirely  constructed  of 
black  marble,  and  attached  to  the  palace.  It  stood  upon  a  platform  \65 
ftet  ill  length  and  100  in  width,  raised  about  6  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
(iooriiig  of  the  chanibeis,  and  ascended  from  the  main  building  by  a  flight 
of  broad  steps.  This  platform,  or  stylobate,  is  remarkable  for  a  cornice  in 
grey  limestone  carried  round  the  four  sides, — one  of  the  few  remains  of  ex- 
tt;rior  decoralion  in  Assyrian  architecture,  with  which  we  arc  acquainted. 
It  in  carefully  biidi  of  separate  stones,  placed  strlc  bij  side,  each  forming. 
part  ofthe  section  of  the  cornice.  Mr.  Fergussou  observes,!  with  reference 
to  it,  "  al  first  sight  it  seems  almost  purely  Egyptian  ;  but  there  are  pecul- 
iarities 111  which  it  difl'ers  from  any  found  in  that  country,  especially  in  the 
curve  being  continued  beyond  the  vertical  tangent,  and  the  consequent  pro- 
joolion  of  the  torus  giving  a  second  shadow.     Whether  the  efTect  of  thia 


BlarMlun  uf  Slylnbtiie  of  T(mp]e  SMlion  nf  Slylubaie  of  Tempts 

WOnld  bo  ploiiiiBiit  or  not  in  a  cornice  placed  so  high  that  we  must  look  up 

U>  il  u  ui«t  (|uiln  dear ;  but  below  the  level  of  ihe  eye,  or  slightly  above  it, 

^V  <ii»mU  iiini't  Inivu  been  more  jdeasing  than  any  form  found  in  Egj'pt, 

lUyttA  wlivMiJ  •I'lilptiire  is  not  added  might  be  usi'd  with  eflect  anywhere." 

Ma^  rt[«(riiiiinls  of  bas-reliefs  in  the  same  black  marble,  chiefly  parts  of 

''    i  .:iiu-i»,  hiid  Ih'ihi  uncovered;  but  this  building  has  been  more 

,   .liiiUoyt'd  llmii  any  other  part  ofthe  palace  of  Khorsabad,  and 

>uutly  uikiuhIi  iuILihIi  even  to  cover  the  few  remains  of  sculpture 

H'ulttiiod  iivitr  itie  platform. 

•  I'  Vi  tif  |lit>  ttil  «4!rif's  ofthe  Monumeiit.<]  uf  Nineveh.    This  bas-relief, 
•t  idi-tly  ri'|hiirt'il,  ir  how  in  the  British  Museum 
>iiiti«uUitiiil  IVravpolut  restured,  p.  S'r). 


II. 


Chap.  Y.] 

The  sculptures  in  the  palacu  itBcIf  had  rapidly  fallen  to  decay,  aad  of 
tfaote  which  had  been  left  exposed  to  the  air  a{\er  M.  Bolta's  deparluro 
scarcely  any  traces  remained.  Some,  however,  had  been  covered  up  and 
partly  preserved  by  the  falling  in  of  the  high  walls  of  earth  forming  the 
■ides  of  the  trenches.  Here  and  there  a  pair  of  colossal  bulls,  still  guard- 
ing th«  portals  of  the  ruined  halls,  raised  their  majestic  but  weather-beaten 
human  heads  above  the  soil.  In  one  or  two  unexplored  parts  of  the  ruins 
my  workmen  had  found  mseribud  altars  or  tripods,  similar  to  that  in  the 
Assyrian  collection  of  the  Louvre,  and  bricks  oraatuented  with  figures  and 
designs  in  color,  showing  that  they  had  belonged  to  walls  painted  with 
subjects  resembling  those  sculptured  on  the  alabaster  panels. 

Since  my  former  visit  to  Khorsabad,  the  French  consul  at  Mosul  had  sold 
to  Col.  Rawlinson  the  pair  of  colossal  human-headed  bulls  and  winged  fig- 
ures, now  in  the  great  hall  of  the  British  Museum.*  They  had  stood  in  a 
propylseum,  about  900  Icet  to  the  soulh-easl  of  the  palace,  within  the 
quadrangle,  but  not  upon  the  artificial  mound.  In  form  this  small  build- 
ing appears  to  have  been  nearly  the  same  as  the  gateway,  in  the  walls  of 
KouyunjLk,t  and  like  it  was  butlt  of  brick  and  panelled  with  low  liine- 
itone  slabs.  From  the  number  of  enamelled  bricks  discovered  in  the  ruins 
it  IB  probable  that  it  was  richly  decorated  in  color, t 

Trenches  had  also  been  opened  in  one  of  the  higher  mounds  in  the  line 
of  walls,  and  in  the  group  of  ruins  at  the  S  W.  corner  of  the  quadrangle, 
but  no  discoveries  of  any  iuterest  had  been  made.  The  centre  of  the  quad- 
rangle was  now  occupied  by  a  fever-breeding  marsh  formed  by  the  waters 
of  the  Khauser. 

We  passed  the  night  at  Tuthliyah.  a.  village  built  at  the  foot  of  the 
Gebel  Makloub,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Khorsahad.  A  small  grove 
of  olive  trees  renders  it  a  conspicuous  object  even  froiu  Mosul,  whence  it 
looks  like  a  dark  shadow  on  the  tawny  plain.  Although  once  containing 
above  two  hundred  hon»cs  it  has  now  but  sixty  It  furim'rly  belonged  to 
the  Mosul  spahis,  or  military  fief  holders,  and  is  still  claimed  by  them,  al- 
though the  government  has  abolished  such  tenures.  We  lodged  in  a  well- 
built  stone  kasr,  or  large  house,  last  falling  into  ruins,  belonging  to  the 
Alai  Bey,  or  chief  of  the  epnlus.  Sclim  Bey,  one  of  the  former  tenants  of 
the  land,  still  lingered  about  the  place,  gathering  together  such  small 
revenues  in  money  and  in  kind  as  ho  could  raise  amongst  the  more  chari- 
table of  the  inhabitants.  He  came  to  me  in  the  morning,  and  gave  me 
the  history  of  the  village  and  of  its  owners. 


•  These  sculptiircs  wpre  iinrflm.seil  liy  the  Trustees  of  the  British  Museum  from 
Col.  Rawlinson  Owing  to  that  carelessnesg  and  neglect,  of  which  ihcro  has  been 
so  much  cause  t"  complain  in  all  that  concerns  the  trans[K>rt  of  the  Assyrian  antiqui- 
ties to  itiis  country,  they  have  sufTered  very  consiiJeralile  injury  since  their  discovery. 
They  were  sawn  into  miiny  pieces  for  facility  of  transport  by  my  marble-cutter  Beh- 
om,  sopcrintendi-d  by  Mr.  Kasaam. 

t  See  plan,  p.  103.  |  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  i.  p.  fiS. 


112 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


(Chap.  V. 


Near  Fiithliyah.  and  about  two  miles  from  the  palace  of  Khorsabad,  18 
a  lofty  conical  Tel  visible  from  Mimiil,  and  from  most  parts  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  It  is  one  of  ihose  isolated  mounds  so  numerous  in  the  plains 
of  Assyria,  which  do  not  appear  to  form  part  of  any  group  of  ruins,  and  the 
nature  nf  whieh  I  have  been  unable  to  determine.  Its  vicinity  to  Khorsa- 
bad led  me  to  believe  that  it  might  -have  been  connected  with  those  to- 
mains,  and  might  have  been  raised  over  a  tomb.  By  my  directions  deep 
trenches  were  opened  into  its  sides,  but  only  frasrments  of  pottery  were  dis- 
covered. The  place  is,  however,  worthy  of  a  more  complete  examination 
than  the  time  and  means  at  my  dis])osal  would  permit. 

From  Fnlhliyah  we  rode  acrosB  the  jilain  to  the  large  village  of  Baaza- 
ni,  chiefly  inhabited  by  Yeziilis.  There  wo  found  Hussein  Bey,  Sheikh 
Nasr,  and  a  large  party  of  Cawals  assembled  at  the  house  of  one  Abd-ur- 
riihrnan  Chelibi,  a  Mussulman  gentleman  of  Mosul,  who  had  farmed  the 
revenues  of  the  )ilace. 

Near  Baazani  arc  a  group  of  arlificial  moimds  of  no  great  size.  The 
three  principal  have  been  used  as  burying- places  by  the  Yezidis,  and  are 
covered  with  their  graves  and  while  conical  tombs.  Although  no  dillicnl- 
ties  wiiuki  have  been  thrown  in  my  wn.y  had  [  wished  to  excavate  in  these 
mine,  they  did  not  apjicar  to  me  of  sufficient  itrvportance  to  warrant  an  in- 
Jury  to  the  fceJings  of  these  poor  people  by  the  desecration  of  the  resting- 
places  of  their  dead.  Having  examined  them,  therefore,  and  taken  leave 
of  the  chiefs.  I  rode  to  the  ueighljouring  village  of  Baasheikhah,  only  sep- 
arated from  Baazani  by  a  deep  watercourse,  dry  except  during  the  rains. 
Both  stand  at  the  very  foot  of  the  Gebel  Maklouh.  Immediately  behind 
them  are  craggy  ravines  worn  by  winter  torrents.  In  these  valleys  are 
quarries  of  the  kind  of  alabaster  used  in  the  Assyrian  palaces,  but  I  could 
find  no  remains  to  show  that  the  As.syrians  had  obtained  their  great  tight 
from  them,  although  they  appear  to  be  of  ancient  date.  They  are  now 
worked  by  the  Yezidis,  who  set  apart  the  proceeds  for  Sheikh  Nasr,  as  the 
highpriest  of  the  tomb  of  Sheikh  Adi  The  stone  quarried  from  them  is 
used  Hit  the  houses  both  of  Baazani  and  Banshcikhah,  which  conseciuently 
have  a  more  cleanly  and  substantial  aiipearauce  than  is  usually  the  case  in 
this  part  of  Turkey.  Indeed,  both  villages  are  flourishing,  chiefly  owing 
to  the  industry  of  their  Yezidi  inhabitants,  and  (heir  cultivation  of  several 
large  groves  of  olive  trees,  which  produce  the  only  olive  oil  in  the  country. 
Mixed  with  the  Yezidis  are  some  families  of  Jacobite  Christians,  who  live 
in  peace  and  good  understanding  with  their  neighbours. 

1  have  already  mentioned,  in  my  former  work,*  the  Assyrian  ruin  near 
Baasheikhah.  It  is  a  vast  niound,  little  inferior  in  size  to  Nimroud,  irreg- 
ular in  sliape,  uneven  in  level,  and  furrowed  by  deep  ravines  worn  by  the 
winter  niiris,  Standing,  as  it  does,  near  abundant  quarries  of  the  lavorite 
Bculpture-materiai  of  the  Assyrians,  and  resembling  the  platforms  of  Kou- 
yunjik  or  Khorsabad,  there  was  every  probability  that  it  contained  the  re- 
*  Kinereh  and  Us  Remains,  voL  i  p.  52. 


Chap.  Y.] 


BAASHEIKHAH. 


113 


mains  of  an  edifice  like  those  ruins.  There  are  a  few  low  mounds  scat- 
tered around  it,  but  no  distinct  line  of  walls  forming  an  inclosure.  During 
the  former  excavations  only  earthen  jars,  and  bricks,  inscribed  with  the 
name  of  the  founder  of  the  centre  palace  at  Nimroud,  had  been  discover- 
ed *  A  party  of  Arabs  and  Tiyari  were  now  opening  trenches  and  tun- 
nels in  varioas  parts  of  the  mound,  under  the  superintendence  of  Yakoub 
Bail  of  Asheetha.  The  workmen  had  uncovered,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
ruin  near  the  surface,  some  large  blocks  of  yellowish  limestone  apparently 
fonning  a  flight  of  steps ;  the  only  other  antiquities  of  any  interest  found 
daring  the  excavations  were  a  few  bricks  bearing  the  name  of  the  early 
NimiDud  king,  and  numerous  fragments  of  earthenware,  apparently  belong- 
ing to  the  covers  of  some  earthen  vessels,  having  the  guilloche  and  honey- 
rackle  alternating  with  the  cone  and  tulip,  as  on  the  oldest  monuments  of 
Nimroud,  painted  upon  them  in  black  upon  a  pale-yellow  ground.f 

It  is  remarkable  that  no  remains  of  more  interest  have  been  discovered 
in  this  mound,  which  must  contain  a  monument  of  considerable  size  and 
antiquity.  Although  the  trenches  opened  in  it  were  numerous  and  deep, 
yet  the  ruin  has  not  yet  probably  been  sufficiently  examined.  It  can 
■oaicely  be  doubted  that  on  the  artificial  platform,  as  on  others  of  the  same 
aatme,  stood  a  royal  palace,  or  some  monument  of  equal  importance. 

•  The  fragment  of  sculpture  brought  me  by  a  Christian  overseer,  employed  during 
Uk  former  expedition,  was,  I  have  reason  to  believe,  obtained  at  Khorsabad. 

t  Now  in  the  British  Museum.  They  appear  to  belong  to  several  distinct  objects, 
probably  the  covers  to  some  funeral  or  other  vases.  See  Plate  55.  of  2d  series  of 
the  Monuments  of  Nmeveh. 


Cait  with  Bopea,  and  Wotkmen  carry iii<  Saw*,  Pick*,  and  ShovcU,  (br  moriog  Coloasal  Bull  (Kouyumik). 

H 


A 


1 


^liUa.  with  hlinancvl  IiiArri|illaii*  oT  Senriirlionb  (Kouyunjtk) 


CHAPTER  VI 

DllCOVEKV  or  (IBANO    CNTSANCK    TO   THK     PALACI    Of    ROtfrDKIlK — OF     TRK     NAMB    Or 
(BNNACHRRIP    IN    THE    INBCKIPTIONS — THK    RECORnS    OP    THAT    KINO    IN    TKE    INRCRIP- 

nOKS    ON    TKE    BULLS. AN    ABRIDGED   TRANSLATION    Or    THEN. — NAME     OF    HEZEKIAil 

AfCOl'NT    or    BSNNADHBRIB'a    WARS    WITH    THE    JEWS DR.    HINCKB    AND    COL.    BAW- 

LINSON. — THE    NAMES  OP   lAROON  ANU   SHALHaNBSER. DISCOVERV  OF   »CDLPTOBBt  AT 

BOUVUNJU,  REPRKSENTINQ  THE  SIEOE  OF  LACJUSH. DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  BCULPTDBB8. 

— DISCOVERY  or  CLAV  SEALS OP  SIONETS  OP  EOYPTlAN  AND  ASSYRIAN  KINOS. CAR- 
TOUCHE OF  5ABAC0. —  NAME  OP  EKSABHAPDON — CONFIRMATION  OP  HISTORICAL  RBO- 
DRD8    or    THE    BIBLE  ROYAL  CYLINDER    OF    SENNACHERIB. 

During  the  month  of  December,  several  discoveries  of  the  greatest  in- 
terest and  importance  were  made,  both  at  Kouyunjik  and  Kimroud.  I 
will  first  describe  the  results  of  the  excavations  in  tho  ruins  opjKi&ite  Mosul. 

I  must  remind  the  reader  that,  shortly  before  my  departure  for  Europe 
in  1848,  the  forepart  of  a  liumanheadcd  bull  of  colossal  dimensions  had 
been  uncovered  on  the  east  side  of  the  Kouyunjik  Palace.*  This  sculp- 
ture then  appeared  to  form  one  side  of  an  entrance  or  doorway,  and  it  is  so 
placed  in  the  plan  of  the  ruins  accompanying  my  former  work.t  The  ex- 
cavations had,  however,  been  abandoned  before  any  attempt  could  be  made 
to  ascertain  the  fact  On  my  return,  I  had  directed  the  workmen  to  dig 
out  the  opposite  sculpture      A  tunnel,  nearly  100  feet  iu  length,  was  ac- 

•  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  ii.  p.  137. 
t  Ibid  vol.  ii  —plan  of  Kouyunjik. 


lAP.  yi.] 


SODtPTURKS  DUCSIBKD. 


cordingly  opened  at  right  angles  to  the  bull  first  discovered,  but  without 
coming  upon  any  other  remains  than  a  pavement  of  square  limestone  slabs 
which  stretched  without  interruption  as  far  as  the  excavation  was  carried. 
I  consequently  discontinued  the  cutting,  as  it  was  evident  that  no  entrance 
could  bo  of  so  great  a  width,  and  as  there  were  not  even  traces  of  building 
in  that  direction. 

The  workmen  having  been  then  ordered  to  uncover  the  bull  which  was 
still  partly  buried  in  the  rubbish,  it  was  found  that  adjoimog  it  were  other 
sculptures,  and  that  it  formed  part  of  an  exterior  facade.  The  upper  half 
of  the  D«Xt  slab  had  been  destroyed,  but  the  lower  still  remained,  and  en- 
abled mo  to  restore  the  figure  of  the  Assyrian  Hercules  strangling  the  lion, 
similar  to  that  discovered  between  the  bulls  in  the  propylsa  of  Khorsabad, 
and  now  in  the  Louvre,  The  hinder  part  of  the  animal  was  still  preserved. 
Its  claws  grasped  the  huge  limbs  of  the  giant,  who  lashed  it  with  the  ser- 
pen^headed  scourge.  The  legs,  feet,  and  drapery  of  the  god  were  in  the 
boldest  reUef,  and  designed  with  great  truth  and  vigor.  Beyond  this  fig- 
ure, in  the  same  line,  was  a  second  bull.  The  fayade  then  opened  into  a 
wide  portal,  guarded  by  a  pair  of  winged  bulls,  twenty  feet  long,  and  prob- 
ably, when  entire,  more  than  twenty  feet  high.  Forming  the  angle  be- 
tween them  and  the  outer  bulls  were  gigantic  winged  figures  in  low  relief,* 
and  flanking  them  were  two  smaller  figures,  one  above  the  other.f  Be- 
yond this  entrance  was  a  group  similar  to  and  corresponding  with  that  on 
the  opposite  side,  also  leading  to  a  smaller  entrance  into  the  palace,  and  to 
a  wall  of  sculptured  slabs  ;  but  here  all  traces  of  building  and  sculpture 
ceased,  and  we  found  ourselves  near  the  edge  of  the  water-worn  ravine. 

Thus  a  facade  of  the  south-east  side  of  the  palace,  forming  apparently 
the  grand  entrance  to  the  edifice,  had  been  discovered.  Ten  coloasal  bulls, 
with  six  human  figures  of  gigantic  proportions,  were  here  grouped  togeth- 
er, and  the  length  of  th6  whole,  without  including  the  sculptured  walla 
continued  beyond  the  smaller  entrances,  was  160  feet.t  Although  the 
bas-reliefs  to  the  right  of  the  northern  gateway  had  apparently  been  pur- 
posely destroyed  with  a  sharp  instrument,  enough  remained  to  allow  me  to 
trace  their  subject.  Thoy  had  represented  the  conquest  of  a  district,  prob- 
ably part  of  Babylonia,  watered  by  a  broad  river  and  wooded  with  palms, 
spearmen  on  foot  in  combat  with  Assyrian  horsemen,  castles  besieged,  long 
lines  of  prisoners,  and  beasts  of  burden  carrying  away  the  spoil.  Amongst 
various  animals  brought  as  tribute  to  the  conquerors,  could  be  distingniehcd 
a  lion  led  by  a  chain.     There  were  no  remains  whatever  of  the  super- 


i 


•  Nob.  4.  and  9.  Grand  entrance,  .S.E.  side.  Plan  I.  Tliese  flgnres  were  those 
of  winged  priests,  or  deities,  carrying  the  fir-cone  and  basket. 

+  Nos.  6.  and  8.  Same  entrance.  The  amall  figure  resembled  No.  2.  in  Plate  6. 
of  9d  series  of  Monuments  of  Nineveh. 

t  The  frontispiece  to  this  volume  will  convey  to  the  rauior  some  idea  of  this  mag- 
nificent fa^e  when  entire.  Thi.i  restoralion,  for  which  I  am  mainly  indebted  to 
Mr.  Ferguason,  has  been  made  with  a  careful  regard  to  the  exact  proportions. 


CttiP.  VI.] 


NUfE  OF  SENNACHERia 


ttruoture  which  onco  rose  above  the  coIohi,  guariling  this  magnificent  en- 
trance ;  but  I  shall  hereafter  more  particularly  describe  the  principal  dec- 
orations and  details  of  Assyrian  architecture,  and  shall  endeavor  to  restore, 
ai  far  as  the  remains  Btill  existing  will  permit,  Uie  exterior  and  interior  of 
the  paiaceg  of  Nineveh. 

The  bulls,  as  I  have  already  observed,  were  all  more  or  less  injured. 
The  same  convulsion  of  nature — for  I  can  scarcely  attribute  to  any  human 
violence  the  overthrow  of  these  great  masses — had  shattered  some  of  them 
into  pieces,  and  scattered  the  fragments  amongst  the  ruins.  Fortunately, 
however,  the  lower  parts  of  all,  and,  consequently,  the  inscriptions,  bad 
been  more  or  less  preserved.  To  this  fact  we  owe  the  recovery  of  some  of 
the  most  precious  records  with  which  the  monuments  of  the  ancient  world 
have  rewarded  the  labors  of  the  antiquary. 

On  the  great  bulls  forming  the  centre  portal  of  the  grand  entrance,  was 
one  continuous  inscription,  injured  in  parts,  but  still  so  far  preserved  as  to 
be  legible  almost  throughout.  It  contained  152  lines.  On  the  four  bulls 
of  the  fa9ade  were  two  inscriptions,  one  inscription  being  carried  over  each 
pair,  and  the  two  being  of  precisely  the  same  import.  These  two  distinct 
reoords  contain  the  annals  of  six  years  of  the  reign  of  Sennacherib,  besides 
numerous  particulars  connected  with  the  religion  of  the  Assyrians,  their 
gods,  their  temples,  and  the  erection  of  their  palaces,  all  of  the  highest  in- 
terest and  importance. 

In  my  first  work  I  had  pointed  out  the  evidence,  irrespective  of  the  in- 
scriptions, which  led  me  to  identify  the  builder  of  the  great  palace  of  Kou- 
yunjik  with  Sennacherib.*  Dr.  Hincks,  in  a  memoir  on  the  inscriptions  of 
Khorsabad,  read  in  June,  1849,  but  published  in  the  "  Transactions  of  the 
Royal  Irish  Academy,"!  in  1850,  was  the  first  to  detect  the  name  of  this 
king  in  the  group  of  arrowheaded  characters  at  the  commencenjeut  of 
nearly  all  the  inscriptions,  and  occurring  on  all  the  inscribed  bricks  from 
the  ruins  of  this  edifice.  Subsequent  discoveries  confirmed  this  tdentifica- 
tion,  but  it  was  not  until  August,  1851,  that  the  mention  of  any  actual 
event  recorded  in  the  Bible,  and  in  ancient  profane  history,  was  detected 
on  the  monuments,  thus  removing  all  further  doubt  as  to  the  king  who  had 
raised  them. 

Shortly  after  my  return  to  England  my  copies  of  these  inscriptions  hav- 
ing been  seen  by  Colonel  Rawlinson,  he  announced,  in  the  Athenaeum  of 
the  23d  August,  1851,  that  he  had  found  in  them  notices  of  the  reign  of 
Sennacherib,  "which  placed  beyond  the  reach  of  dispute  his  histuric  tden- 

*  I  had  also  shown  the  prnhability  that  the  palace  or  Khorsabad  owed  its  erection 
to  a  monarch  of  this  dynasty,  in  a  series  of  letters  published  in.  the  Malta  Times,  aa 
fai  back  a  a  1843. 

t  Vol.  xxii.  p.  34.  I  take  this  opportunity  of  attribnting^  to  their  proper  source  the 
discovorioB  of  the  names  of  Neburhadnczzar  and  Babylon,  inmlvcrtently  assigned  to 
others  in  my  "Nineveh  and  its  Hemains."  Wc  owe  tliese,  with  many  others  of 
scarcely  leas  im|)onance,  to  the  ingenuity  and  learning  of  Dr.  Hincka.  (Literary 
Gazette,  June  27.  1S46.) 


118 


mUBtBH  AND  BABTtON. 


[Ohap.  YI. 


tity,"  and  he  gave  a  recapitulation  of  tbe  principal  events  recorded  on  the 
monumcute,  the  greater  part  of  which  are  known  to  us  through  history 
either  sacred  or  profane.  These  inscriptions  have  since  been  examined  by 
Dr.  Hincks,  and  translated  by  him  independently  of  Colonel  Rawlmson. 
He  has  kindly  assisted  nie  in  giving  the  foltowiiig  abridgment  of  their  con- 
tents.* 

The  inscriptions  begin  with  the  name  and  titles  of  Sennacherib.  It  is 
to  be  remarked  that  ho  docs  not  style  himself  "  King,  or  rather  High  Priest, 
of  Babylon,"  as  his  father  had  done  in  the  latter  part  of  his  reign,  from 
which  it  may  be  inferred  that  at  the  time  of  engraving  the  record  he  was 
not  tbe  immediate  suvereiga  of  that  city,  although  its  chief  may  have  paid 
tribute  to  him,  and,  no  doubt,  acknowledged  his  supremacy.  He  calls  him- 
self "  the  subduer  of  kings  from  the  upper  sea  of  the  setting  sun  (the  Med- 
iterranean) to  the  lower  sea  of  the  rising  sun  (the  Persian  Grulf)."  In  the 
first  year  of  his  reign  he  defeated  Merodach  fialadan,  a  name  with  which 
we  are  familiar,  for  it  is  this  king  who  is  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testameat 
as  sending  letters  and  a  present  to  Hezekiah,t  when  the  Jewish  monarch 
in  his  pride  showed  the  ambassadors  "  the  house  of  his  precious  things,  the 
silver  and  the  gold,  and  the  spices,  and  the  precious  ointment,  and  all  the 
house  of  his  annour,  and  all  that  was  found  in  his  treasures :  there  was 
nothing  in  his  house  nor  in  all  his  dominions  that  Hezekiah  showed  them 
not ;"  an  act  of  vain  boasting  which  led  to  the  reproof  of  the  prophet 
Isaiah,  and  to  his  foretelling  that  all  this  wealth,  together  with  the  de- 
Bcendanta  of  its  owner,  should  be  carried  away  as  spoil  to  the  very  city 
from  which  these  ambassadors  came.  Merodach  Baladan  is  called  king  of 
Kar-Duniyas,  a  city  and  country  frequently  mentioned  in  the  Assyrian  in- 
scriptions, and  comprising  the  southernmost  part  of  Me£o]>otamia,  near  the 
conHuence  of  the  Tigris  and  Euphrates,  together  with  the  districts  watered 
by  those  two  rivers,  to  the  borders  of  Susiana.  This  king,  with  the  help 
of  his  Susianian  allies,  had  recently  recovered  Babylon,  from  which  Sar- 
gon,  Sennacherib's  father,  had  expelled  him  in  the  twelfth  year  of  his 
reign.  The  battle  appears  to  have  been  fought  considerably  to  the  north 
of  that  city.     The  result  was  that  Sennacherib  totally  defeated  Merodach 

"  I  must  here  remind  the  reader  thot  any  new  discoveries  in  the  cuneiform  inscrip- 
tions referred  to  in  ihe  text  are  to  be  attributed  lo  Dr.  Hincks.  The  translation 
made  by  Col.  Rawlinson,  and  published  by  the  Royal  Asiatic  .Society,  was  cmnptled 
from  three  distinct  records  of  the  same  monarch, — the  inscriptinnson  the  bulls,  on  a 
large  barrel-shaped  terra-cotta  cylinder,  known  as  Belliiio's  cylinder,  now  in  the 
British  Museum,  and  on  an  hexagonal  cylinder  in  ihe  same  material,  in  t!ie  posses- 
sion of  the  late  Col.  Taylor.  The  first  annals  extend  over  six  years  of  Sennacherib's 
reign,  the  second  over  only  two,  and  the  last,  the  fullest  and  most  detailed,  but  un- 
fortunately said  to  be  toiit.  over  eight.  It  will  be  perceived  that  Dr.  Hincks's  version 
differs  somewhat  from  tliat  published  by  Col.  Rawlinson  ,  and  il  must  be  observed 
that  he  was  unable  to  refer  to  the  more  complete  records^  t»f  which  a  cast  in  paper 
i»  in  the  Colonel's  possession.  He  has  availed  himself  of  Bellmu's  cylinder  to  com- 
plete the  annals  of  the  first  two  years  of  the  reign  of  the  Assyrian  kinj^'. 

t  Isaiah,  xxxix.  1.  and  3  Kings,  zx.  12.  where  the  name  is  written  Berodach. 


Chap.  VI,  ] 


8ENNACI1ERIB-S  WARS. 


119 


Baladan,  who  fled  to  gave  hia  life,  leaving  behind  him  his  chariots,  wag- 
gmu  (?),  horses,  mares,  asses  (?),  camels,  and  riding  horses  trith  their 
trappings  for  war  (?).  The  violoriouB  king  then  advanced  to  Babylon, 
where  he  plundered  the  palace,  carrj-ing  off' a  vast  treasure  olgold.  silver, 
vessels  of  gold  and  silver,  precious  sloucs,  men  and  women  servants,  and 
&  variety  of  objects  which  cannot  yet  be  satisfactorily  determined.  No  loss 
than  seventy-nine  cities  (or  fortresses),  all  the  castles  of  the  Chaldicans, 
and  eight  hundred  and  twenty  small  towns  (or  villages),  dependent  upon 
them,  were  taken  and  spoiled  by  the  Assyrian  army,  and  the  great  wander* 
ing  tribes  "  that  dwelt  around  the  cities  of  Mesopotamia,"  the  Syrians 
(Araraeans),  and  Chaldaians,  &c.  jcc.  were  brought  under  subjection. 
Sennacherib  having  made  Bclib,*  one  of  his  own  officers,  sovereign  of  the 
conquered  provinces,  procee<led  to  subdue  the  powerful  tribes  who  border 
on  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris,  and  amongst  them  the  Hagarenes  and  Naba- 
thasans.  From  these  wandering  people  he  declares  that  he  carried  off  tO' 
Assyria,  probably  colonising  with  them,  as  was  the  custom,  new-built 
towns  and  villages,  208.000  men,  women,  and  children,  together  with 
7200  horses  and  mares,  11,0G3  asses  (?).  5230  camels,  120,100  oxen,  and 
800,500  sheep.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  camels  should  bear  so  small  a 
proportion  to  the  oxen  and  asses  in  tliis  enumeration  of  the  spoil.  Amongst 
the  Bedouin  tribes,  who  now  inhabit  the  same  country,  the  camels  would 
be  far  more  numerous. t  It  is  interesting  to  find,  that  in  those  days,  as  at 
a  later  period,  there  was  both  a  tiomadc  and  stationary  population  in  North- 
ern Arabia. 

In  the  same  year  Sennacherib  received  a  great  tribute  from  the  con- 
quered Khararah,  and  subdued  the  people  of  Kberimmi,  whom  he  declare* 
to  have  been  long  rebellious  (neither  people  can  as  yet  be  identified),  re- 
building (?  or  consecrating)  the  city  of  the  latter,  and  sacrificing  on  the 
occasion,  for  its  dedication  to  the  gods  of  Assyria,  one  ox,  ten  sheep,  ten 
goats  or  lambs,  and  twenty  other  animals. t 

In  the  second  year  of  his  reign,  Sennacherib  appears  to  have  turned  his 
arms  to  the  north  of  Nineveh,  having  reduced  in  his  tirst  year  the  southern 
country  to  obedience.  By  the  help  of  Ashur,  he  says,  he  went  to  Bishi  and 
Yasubirablai  (both  names  of  doubtful  reading  and  not  identified),  who  had 
long  been  rebellious  to  the  kings  his  fathers.  He  took  Beth  Kilanizakh, 
their  principal  city,  and  carried  away  their  men,  small  and  great,  horses, 
mares,  ones  (?),  oxen,  and  sheep.     The  people  of  Bishi  and  Yasubirablai, 

•  Col.  Rawlinson  rcncls  Bel-a<lon.  Thin  Bclib  is  the  Belibus  of  Ptolemy's  Canon. 
The  mention  of  his  name  led  Dr.  Hincks  lo  dctcmrinc  the  accession  of  Sennacherib 
to  be  in  703  »  c. 

t  Col  Itawlinson  gives  11,180  head  of  cattle,  5230  camels,  1,020,100  sheep,  and 
800,300  goats.  He  has  also  pointed  out  ilmt  both  Abydenus  and  Polyhistor  mention 
this  campaign  against  Babylon. 

t  It  is  to  be  remarked  that  he  does  not  say  he  gave  a  new  name  to  this  city,  as 
was  generally  the  ease  ;  it  may  have  been  a  holy  city  (compare  "Harem")  and  con- 
•eqoenlly  escaped  destruclioa. 


NINKTBH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  YI. 


C 


who  had  fled  from  his  Berrants,  he  brought  down  from  the  mountains  and 
llao«d  liiem  under  one  of  his  eunuchs,  the  governor  of  the  city  of  Arapkha. 
tnado  tablets,  and  wrote  on  tkcm  the  taws  (or  tribute)  imposed  upon 
tke  conquered,  and  set  tltcrn  up  in  ihe  cily.     He  took  permanent  posses- 
•iou  of  the  country  of  lllibi  (Luristan?),  and  Ispabara*  its  king,  after  be- 
!»>•  defeated,  fled,  leaving  the  cities  of  Marubishti  and  Akkiiddu,  the  royal 
^—lesidences,  with  thirty-four  principal  towns,  and  villages  not  to  be  counted, 
^Bo  bo  destroyed  by  tlie  AsKyriuns,  who  carried  away  a  large  amount  uf  cap- 
^HlToa  and  cattle.     Hulh-barrua,  the  city  itself  and  its  dependencies,  Senna- 
^bhcrib  separated  from  Hhbi,  and  added  to  his  immediate  dominions.     The 
^H^ty  of  Ilbinzoih  (?)  he  appointed  to  be  the  chief  city  in  this  district.     He 
^"EOolishcd  its  former  name,  called  it  Kar-Sanakhirba  (t.  e.  the  city  of  Senua- 
oherib),  and  placed  in  it  a  new  people,  annexing  it  to  the  government  of 
Kharkhar,  which  must  liiive  been  in  the  uetglibourhood  of  Holwan,  com- 
manding the  pass  through  mount  Zagros.     After  this  campaign  he  received 
tribute  to  a  great  amount  from  some  Median  nations,  so  distant,  that  hia 
predecessors  "had  not  even  heard  mention  of  their  names,"  and  made  them 
obedient  to  hia  authority, 
^k     In  the  third  year  of  his  reign  Sennacherib  appears  to  have  overran  with 
"Tub  armies  tlie  whole  of  Syria.     He  probably  crossed  the  Euphrates  above 
Carchemish,  at  or  rear  the  ford  of  Thapsacus,  and  marched  to  the  sea- 
coaat,  over  the  northern  spur  of  Mount  Lebanon.     The  Syrians  are  called 
by  their  familiar  biblical  name  of  Hittites,  the  Khatti,  or  Khetta,  by  which 
^Bthey  were  also  known  to  the  Egyptians.     The  iirst  opposition  he  appears 
^"  to  have  received  was  from  Luli  (or  Luliya),  king  of  Sidon,  who  had  with- 
held his  humage  ;  but  who  was  soon  compelled  to  Ily  from  Tyre  to  Yavan 
in  the  middle  of  the  sea.     Dr.  Hincks  identifies  this  country  with  the  island 
of  Crete,  or  some  part  of  the  soulhcni  coast  of  Asia  Minor,  and  with  the 
Yavan  (i')  of  the  Old  Testament,  the  country  of  the  lonians  or  Greeks,  an 
identification  which  I  believe  to  be  correct.f     This  verj'  Phtenician  king  ia 
nicMilioned  by  Josephus  (<]Uoting  from  Menaiuler),  under  the  name  of  Elu- 
innis,  as  warring  with  Shalnianezer,  a  predecessor  of  Sennacherib.     He  ap- 
pears not  to  have  been  completely  subdued  before  this,  but  only  to  have 
paid  homage  or  tribute  to  the  Assyrian  monarchs.l     Sennacherib  placed  a 

^H  •  Wo  learn  from  the  Khoraabad  inscriptions,  that  in  the  eleventh  year  of  the  reign 
^^Of  SarRon,  Dalta,  the  king  uf  this  country,  died,  leaving  two  awns,  one  of  whom  waa 
•ii|)])orli'il  l>y  the  king  of  Siisn,  and  the  ullier  by  the  .■\ssyrian  monarch,  who  sent  a 
UrKO  army,  undtr  seven  generals,  to  Ids  assistance,  and  totally  dofeating  the  Susi- 
•niana,  placed  Ispobnra  on  the  throne.  Ispabara  appears  afterwards  to  have  thrown 
off  llin  Assyrian  yoke.  (Dr.  Hincka.)  Col.  Rawlinson  places  nitbi  in  northern 
MuiliM,  ami  ti-iiila  most  of  the  names  in  the  text  diflcrcntly.  (P.  30.  of  hia  Memoir.) 
\  Col.  Rawlinson  identifies  the  name,  which  he  reads  Yelnan,  with  the  Rliinuculura 
^qS  \\\<i  Grrck.s,  and  pkcfs  it  in  the  south  of  Phtpnii-ia,  on  Ibe  ciiiifmea  of  Egypt. 

t  Joui'iih.  L  ix.  c.  14.,  and  sk<-  Nineveh  ami  its  Remains,  vol.  li.  p.  4(M>.,  where  I  had 
luiiit  iKTiiir  the  deciphering  of  the  inscriptions  endeavoured  to  ptnnt  out  the  repre- 
■vntaliuii  of  ihia  event,  in  some  bas-reliefs  at  Knuyunjik.    This  flight  of  Luliya,  in- 


I 


Chap.  VI.] 


CONQITSST  OF  JVDXA. 


121 


person,  whose  name  is  doubtful  (Col.  RawliiiBon  reads  it  Tubaal),  upon 
the  throne  of  Luli,  and  appointed  his  annual  Iributc.  All  the  kings  oftlio 
sea-coast  then  submitted  to  him,  except  Zidkaha  (compare  Zedekiah)  or 
Zidkabal,  king  of  Ascalon.    This  chief  was,  however,  soon  subdued,  and  was 

sent,  with  his  household  and  wealth,  to  Assyria, (name  destroyed),  the 

■on  of  Rukipti  (?),  a  former  king,  being  placed  ou  the  throne  in  his  stead. 
The  cities  dependent  upon  Ascalon,  which  had  not  been  obedient  to  his  au- 
thority, he  captured  and  plundered.  A  passage  of  great  importance  which 
now  occurs  is  unfortunately  so  much  injured  that  it  has  not  been  satisfac- 
torily restored.  It  appears  to  state  that  the  chief  priests  (?)  and  people  of 
Ekron  (?)  had  dethroned  their  king  Padiya,  M'ho  was  dependent  upon  As- 
syria, and  had  delivered  him  up  to  Hezekiah,  king  of  Judma.,*  The  kings 
of  Egypt  sent  an  army,  the  main  part  of  which  is  said  to  have  belonged  to 
the  king  of  Mitukhkha  (Meroe,  or  a^thiopia),  to  Judiea,  probably  to  help 
their  Jewish  allies.  Sennacherib  joined  battle  with  the  Egyptians,  totally 
defeated  them  near  the  city  of  Al  ....  ku,  capturing  the  charioteers  of  the 
king  of  Milukhkha,  and  placing  them  in  confinement.  This  battle  between 
the  armies  of  the  Assyrians  and  Eg^yptians  appears  to  be  hinted  at  in  Isa- 
iah and  in  the  Book  of  Kings. t  Fadiya  having  been  brought  back  from 
Jerusalem  was  replaced  by  Sennacherib  ou  his  throne.  "  Hezekiah,  king 
of  Judah."  says  the  Assyrian  king,  "  who  had  not  submitted  to  my  author- 
ity, forty-six  of  his  principal  cities,  and  fortresses  and  villages  depending 
upon  them,  of  which  I  took  iiu  account,  1  captured  and  carried  away  their 
spoil.  1  shut  up  (?)  himself  within  Jerusalem,  his  capital  city.  The 
fortified  towns,  and  the  rest  of  his  towns,  which  I  spoiled,  I  severed  from 
his  country,  and  gave  to  the  kings  of  Ascalon,  Ekron,  and  Gaza,  so  as  to 
make  his  country  email.  In  addition  to  the  former  tribute  imposed  upon 
their  countries,  1  added  a  tribute,  the  nature  of  which  I  fixed."  The  next 
passage  is  somewh.at  defaced,  hut  the  puhstance  of  it  appears  to  bo  ihat  he 
took  from  Hczekiali  the  treasure  he  had  collected  in  Jerusalem,  30  talents 
of  gold  and  800  talents  of  silver,  the  treasures  of  his  palace,  besides  his  sons 
and  his  daughters,  and  his  male  and  female  servants  or  slaves,  and  brought 

deed,  appears  to  be  represented  in  plate  No.  71.  of  the  first  series  of  the  "Monu- 
ments of  Nineveh." 

•  Col.  Rawlinson  reads  the  name  of  the  king  Haddiya.  That  of  Ekron  is  very 
doubtful. 

t  Uaiah,  xxxvii.  2  Kings,  xix.  9.  It  is  not  stated  that  the  armies  of  tlie  two 
aniagonifttic  nations  of  ihe  ancient  world  actually  met  in  battle,  but  that  Sen- 

dherib  "  heard  say  concerning  'I'irlmkali  king  of  Elhinpin,  He  is  rotnirii?  forth  to 
Bake  war  with  thee."  HoroikUu-s,  howcivcr,  appears  to  have  preaervwl  the  record 
of  the  battle  in  the  celebrated  story  of  the  mice  which  gnawed  the  bowstrings  and 
the  thongs  of  the  shields  of  the  Assyrian  soldiers  during  the  night,  and  left  them  an 
easy  prey  to  the  Egyptians  (1th  iii.,  s.  HI.).  This  looks  very  much  like  a  defeat  8U». 
taincd  by  the  Egyptians,  which  the  vanity  of  their  priests  had  converted  into  this 
marvellous  stor>'.  The  fact,  intimated  in  tne  inBcriplions,  of  Tirhakah  having  not 
one  but  several  Egyptian  kings  depcadeat  upon  him  is  new  to  history. 


^^M. 


122 


^rU«EVSH  AND  BABYhOti. 


[Chap.  Vt 


them  all  to  Nineveh.*  The  city  itself,  however,  he  does  not  pretend  to 
have  taken. 

There  can  be  little  doubt  that  the  campaign  against  the  cities  of  Pales- 
tine recorded  in  the  iiiscriptions  of  Sennacherib  at  Kouyunjik,  is  that  de- 
Bchbod  in  the  Old  Testament.  The  events  agree  with  considerable  accu- 
racy. We  are  told  iu  the  Book  of  Kings,  that  the  king  of  Assyria,  in  the 
fourtceath  year  of  the  rfign  of  Hezekiah,  "  came  up  against  all  the  fenced 
cities  of  Judah  and  took  them.'t  as  he  dfclares  himself  to  have  done  in 
his  annals.  And,  what  is  most  importunt,  and  perhaps  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable coincidences  of  histuric  testimony  on  record,  the  amount  of  the 
treasure  in  gold  taken  from  Hezekiah,  thirty  talents,  agrees  in  the  two  per- 
fectly iiidepenjjent  accounts.}  Too  much  stress  cannot  be  laid  on  this  sin- 
gular iact,  as  it  tends  to  prove  the  general  accuracy  of  the  historical  details 
contained  in  tlie  Assyrian  iuseriplions.  There  is  a  difference  of  500  tal- 
ents, as  it  will  be  observed,  in  tlie  amount  of  silver.  It  is  probable  that 
Hezekiah  was  much  pressed  by  Sennacherib,  and  compelled  to  give  him 
all  the  wealth  that  he  could  collect,  as  we  find  him  actually  taking  the 
silver  from  the  house  uf  the  Lord,  as  well  as  from  his  own  treasury,  and 
cutting  off  the  gold  from  the  doors  and  pillars  of  the  temple,  to  satisfy  the 
demands  of  the  Assyrian  king.  The  Bible  may  therefore  only  include  tho 
actual  amount  of  money  in  the  300  talents  of  silver,  whilst  the  Assyrian 
records  eomprise  all  the  precious  metal  taken  away.  There  are  some 
chronological  discrepancies  which  cannot  at  present  be  satisfactorily  recon- 
ciled, and  %vhich  I  will  not  attempt  to  explain. 4     It  is  natural  to  suppose 

•  Col.  llawlinson  gives  a  somewhat  diffprent  version  of  this  part  of  llie  inscription. 
He  trtinslates,  "Because  Hozekiah,  king  of  Judaia,  did  not  submit  to  niy  yoke,  forty- 
six  of  his  strong-fenced  cities,  and  innumerable  smaller  towns  which  depended  on 
Ihem,  I  took  and  plundered ;  but  I  left  to  him  Jerusalem,  his  capitnl  fity,  and  some 

of  the  inferior  towns  around  it And  because  Hezekiah  still  continued 

to  rofiisc  to  pay  mc  homage,  I  attacked  and  carried  ofT  the  whole  population,  fixed 
and  tiomadp,  which  dwelled  around  Jerusalem,  with  30  talents  of  gold  and  800  tal- 
ents of  silver,  tlie  accumulated  wealth  of  the  nobles  of  Hezekiah's  court,  and  of  their 
daughters,  with  the  officers  of  his  palace,  men  slaves  and  women  slaves.  I  rctnmed 
to  ?<inevch,  and  I  accounted  their  spoil  for  the  tribute  which  he  refused  to  pay  me." 
He  identities  Milukhkhu  (or  Mirukho)  with  Meroc  or  ..Ethiopia,  and  Al .  .  .  ku,  which 
he  reads  Alliikis,  with  Lachish,  the  city  besicffed  by  Sennacherib,  when  he  sent  Rab- 
shakch  to  Ht'iti'kia.h,  and  of  which,  I  shall  endeavour  to  sbow,  wc  have  elsewhere  a 
more  certain  mention. 

t  S  Kings,  xviii.  13. ;  and  compare  Isaiah,  xxxvi.  1.  T  may  here  observe  that  the 
names  of  Hcackiah  and  Judcua,  with  others  mentioned  in  the  text,  occur  in  inscrip- 
tions on  other  bulls  of  Kouyunjik  already  published.  {Svv  British  Museum  SerioSa 
p  SI.  I   11  ) 

t  "And  the  king  of  Assyria  appointed  unto  Hez«kjah,  king  of  Judah,  300  talents 
of  silver  and  30  talents  of  gold."     (3  Kings,  xviji.  14.)  • 

4  According  to  Dr.  Hincks  (Chronological  Appendix  to  a  Paper  on  the  Assyrio- 
Babylonian  Characters  in  vol.  xxii.  of  the  Transactions  of  the  Koyal  Irish  Academy), 
it  Ls  necessary  to  read  the  fifth  for  the  fourteenth  year  of  Hezekiah  as  the  dale  of 
Sennacherib's  invasion.    The  illness  of  Hezekiah,  and  the  embassy  of  Merodacit  Bal- 


Chap.  VI.] 


WABS  OF  SENNACHSUB 


18S 


that  Sennacherib  would  not  perpetuate  the  memory  of  his  own  overthrow ; 
and  that,  having  been  uuisucccssrul  ui  an  attempt  upon  Jerusalem,  his  army 
being  visited  by  the  plague  described  in  £>cripture,  he  should  gloss  over  his 
defeat  by  describing  the  tribute  he  had  previously  received  Irom  Hezekiah 
as  the  general  result  of  his  campaign. 

There  is  no  reason  to  believe,  from  the  biblical  account,  that  b>ennacfaerib 
was  slain  by  his  sous  immediately  after  his  return  to  Nineveh ;  on  the  con- 
trary, the  expression  "he  returned  and  dwelt  at  Nineveh,"  infers  that  he 
continued  to  reign  for  some  time  over  Assyria.  We  have  accordingly  his 
farther  annals  on  the  monuments  he  erected.  In  his  fourth  year  he  went 
southward,  and  subdued  the  country  of  Bcih-Yakiu,  defeating  Susubira, 
the  Chaldsean,  who  dwelt  in  the  city  of  Bittut  on  the  river — (Agammi,  ac- 
cording to  JKawlinson).  Further  mention  is  made  of  Merodach  Baladan. 
"  This  king,  whom  I  had  defeated  in  a  former  campaign,  escaped  from  my 
principal  servants,  and  iled  to  an  island  (name  lost);  his  brothers,  the  seed 
of  his  lather's  house,  whom  he  Icll  behind  him  on  the  coast,  with  the  rest 
of  the  men  of  his  country  from  Beth-Yakin,  near  the  salt  (?)  river  (the  Shat- 
el-Arab,  or  united  waters  of  the  Tigris  and  Euphrates),  I  carried  away,  and 
several  of  his  towns  I  threw  down  and  burnt ;  Assumadunwi*  (?  Assurna- 
din,  according  to  RawUuson),  my  son,  1  placed  on  the  throne  of  his  king- 
dom." He  appears  then  to  have  made  a  largo  government,  of  which 
Babylon  was  the  chief  place,* 

In  the  fifth  year  he  deloated  the  Tokkari,  capturing  their  principal  strong- 
hold or  Nipour  (detached  hill  fort  ?),  and  others  of  their  castles.  He  also 
attacked  Maniyakh,  king  of  Okhu  or  Wukku  (?),  a  country  to  which  no 
previous  Assyrian  king  had  penetrated.  This  chief  deserted  his  capital 
and  Oed  to  a  distance.  Sennacherib  carried  ofi'the  spoil  of  his  palace  and 
plundered  his  cities.  This  cxpedilion  seems  to  have  been  to  the  north  of 
Assyria,  in  Armenia  or  Asia  Minor. 

In  the  following  year  Sennacherib  again  marched  to  the  mouths  of  the 
Euphrates  and  Tigris,  and  attacked  the  two  cities  of  Naghil  and  Nughit 
Dibuena.  They  appear  to  have  stood  on  opposite  sides  of  the  greul  salt 
river,  a  name  anciently  given,  it  is  conjt-clured,  to  the  Sbat-el-Arab,  or 
united  waters  of  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris,  which  are  all'ecled  by  the  tides 
of  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  are,  consequently,  salt.  Both  cities  belonged  to 
the  King  of  Elaai  (Elamli),  or  Nuvaki,  the  two  names  being  used  inditi'er- 
ently  i'or  the  same  country.  The  Assyrian  king,  in  order  to  reach  them, 
was  compelled  to  build  ships,  and  to  employ  the  mariners  of  Tyre.  Sidnn, 
and  Yavan,  as  navigators.  He  brought  these  vessels  down  the  Tigris,  and 
crossed  on  them  to  the  Susianian  side  of  the  river,  after  having  first,  it  would 

adan  he  places  eleven  years  earlier.  Certainly  the  phrase  "  in  those  daya"  was  used 
wHh  great  latitude. 

•  Dr.  Hincks  identifies  the  son  of  Sennacherib  with  the  Aparanadius  of  Ptolemy's 
canon,  whose  rei^  began  three  years  after  that  of  UeliUus.  He  supposes  e  to  be  a 
corrupttun  oi  aa. 


184 


NmsVSH  XKD  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  VL 


■ecm,  taken  the  city  Naghit  whicli  stood  ou  the  western  bank.  Ho  offered 
precious  sacrifices  to  a  god  (?  Neptune,  but  name  doubtful)  on  the  bank  of 
the  salt  river,  and  dedicated  to  him  a  ship  of  pold,  and  two  other  golden 
objects,  the  nature  of  which  has  not  been  determined.  Mention  is  then 
made  of  his  having  captured  Naghit  Dibeena,  together  with  three  other 
cities,  whose  names  cannot  be  well  ascertained,  and  of  his  crossing  the  river 
Ula  (?  the  Ulai  of  Daniel,  the  Eulrous  of  the  Greeks,  and  the  modern  Ka- 
roon).  Unfortunately  the  whole  of  the  passage  which  contains  the  record 
of  the  expedition  against  these  cities  is  much  defaced,  and  has  not  yet  been 
Mtisfaclorily  restored.  It  appears  to  give  Interesting  details  of  the  building 
of  the  ships  on  the  Tigris,  by  tl>e  rnen  of  Tyre  and  Sidon  and  of  the  navi- 
gation of  that  river, 

i^uch  are  the  principal  historical  facta  recorded  on  the  bulls  placed  by 
Sennacherib  in  his  palace  at  Nineveh.  I  have  given  them  fully,  in  order 
that  we  may  endeavour  to  identify  the  sculptured  representations  of  thoM 
events  on  the  walls  of  the  chambers  and  halls  of  that  magnificent  building, 
described  in  the  course  of  this  work.  Appended  to  the  historical  annali, 
and  frequently  embracing  the  whole  of  the  shorter  inscriptions  on  the  co- 
lossi at  the  entrances,  arc  very  full  and  minute  details  of  the  form  of  the  pal- 
ace, the  mode  of  its  construclion,  and  the  materials  employed,  which  will  be 
alluded  to  when  I  come  to  a  description  of  the  architecture  of  the  Assyrians. 

As  the  name  of  Sennacherib,  as  well  as  those  of  many  kings,  countriea 
and  cities,  are  not  written  phonetically,  that  is,  by  letters  having  a  certain 
alphabetic  value,  but  by  motiograms,  and  the  deciphering  of  them  is  a  pe- 
culiar prot-ess,  which  may  sometimes  appear  suspicious  to  those  not  ac- 
quainted with  the  subject,  a  few  words  of  explanation  may  be  acceptable 
to  my  readers.  The  greater  number  of  A88}T:ian  proper  names  with  whieh 
we  are  acquainted,  whether  royal  or  not,  appear  to  liave  been  made  up  of 
the  name,  epithet,  or  title,  of  one  of  the  national  deities,  and  of  a  second 
word  such  as  "slave  of,"  "servant  of,"  "  beloved  of,"  "  protected  by  ;"  like 
the  "  Theodosins,"  "  Theodorns,"  &c,  of  the  Greeks,  and  the  "  Abd-uUah," 
and  "  Abd-UT-Rahman,"  of  Mohammedan  nations.  The  names  of  the  go 
being  commonly  written  with  a  inouogratii,  the  first  step  in  deciphering  is 
to  know  which  God  this  particular  sign  deuoles.  Thus,  in  the  name  of  Sen- 
nacherib, we  have  first  the  determinative  of  "  god."  to  which  no  phonetic 
value  is  attached ;  whilst  the  second  character  denotes  an  Assyrian  god, 
whose  name  was  San.  The  first  component  part  of  the  name  of  Easar- 
hmldon,  is  the  monogram  lor  the  god  Assur.  It  is  this  fact  which  render* 
it  so  dttficult  to  detormine,  with  any  degree  of  confidence,  most  of  the  Aa- 
■yrian  names,  and  which  leads  me  to  warn  my  readers  that,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  such  as  can  with  certainly  be  idenliJied  with  well-known  historic 
kings,  as  Sargon,  Sennacljerib,  and  Eesarhaddoii,  the  interpretation  of  all 
those  which  are  found  on  the  monuments  of  Nineveh,  is  liable  to  very  con- 
siderable doubt.  In  speaking  of  them  I  shall,  therefore,  not  use  any  of  the 
readings  which  have  been  suggested  by  different  writers. 


VT.] 


HUB  OP  SBNNACB151B. 


126 


I 

I 


P 


Although  no  question  can  reasonably  exist  as  to  the  identification  of  the 
king  who  built  the  palace  of  Kouyuojik  with  the  iSenuacherib  of  iScriplure, 
it  may  still  be  desirable  to  place  before  my  readers  all  the  corroborative  evi- 
dence  connected  with  the  subject.  lu  so  doiii^r.  however.  1  shall  have  to 
refer  to  discoveries  made  at  a  subsequent  piiriod,  and  which  ought  conse- 
quently to  be  described,  if  the  order  of  the  narrative  be  strictly  preservedi 
in  a  subsequent  part  of  this  work.  In  the  tiret  place,  it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  the  Kouyunjik  king  was  undoubtedly  the  son  of  the  founder  of 
the  palace  at  Khorsabad.  He  is  so  called  in  the  inscriptions  behind  the 
bulls  in  the  S,W.  palace  at  Nimroud,  and  in  numerous  delax'hed  inscrip- 
tions on  bricks,  and  on  other  remains  from  those  ruins  and  from  Kouyunjik. 
Now  the  name  of  the  Khorsabad  king  was  generally  admitted  to  be  Sar- 
goD,*  even  before  his  relationship  to  the  Kouyunjik  king  was  known ;  al* 
though  here  again  we  are  obliged  to  attach  phonetic  powers  to  character* 
used  as  monograms,  which,  when  occurring  as  simple  letters,  appear  to  have 
totally  different  values. f  Colonel  Rawlinson  states, 4^  that  this  king  bears 
in  other  inscriptions  the  name  of  Shatmanescr,  by  which  he  was  better 
known  to  the  Jews.i  Dr.  Hincks  denies  that  the  two  names  belong  to  the 
same  person.  It  would  appear,  however,  that  there  are  events  mentioned 
in  the  inscriptions  of  Khorsabad,  which  lead  to  the  identification  of  its 
founder  with  the  Shalmaneser  of  Scripture,  and  the  ruins  of  the  palace  it- 
self, were  known  even  at  the  time  of  the  Arab  conquest  by  the  name  of 
"  ijarghun." 

Unfortunately  the  upper  parts  of  nearly  all  the  bas-reliefs  at  Kouyunjik 
having  been  destroyed  the  epigraphs  are  wanting ;  and  we  arc  unable,  as 
yet,  to  identify  with  certainty  the  subjects  represented  with  any  known 
event  in  the  reign  of  Sennacherib.  There  is,  however,  one  remarkable  ex- 
ception. 

During  the  latter  part  of  my  residence  at  Mosul  a  chamber  was  discov- 
ered in  which  the  sculptures  were  in  better  preservation  than  any  before 

•  First,  I  believe,  though  on  completely  false  premises,  by  M.  Lowenstein. 

t  Col.  Rawlinson  reads  the  name  "Sargina." 

t  Alhenteura,  Aug  23.  1851. 

9  Shalmaneser,  who  made  war  against  Hoshea,  and  who  is  generally  supposed  to 
have  carried  away  the  ten  tribes  from  Samaria,  although  the  sanred  historian  does 
not  distinctly  say  so  (2  Kings,  xvii.),  is  identified  by  general  consent  wiih  Sargon,  who 
sent  his  general  against  Ashdod  (Isaiuh,  xx.J.  Dr.  Hincks  questioned  this  identifi- 
cation (AthenKuin  for  Sept.  13.  1651),  considering  Shalmaneser  as  son  of  Sargon,  and 
brother  to  Sennacherib.  In  tits  last  paper,  however  {Trans.  Royal  Irish  Acad.  vol. 
SXiL},  he  has  taken  a  different  view.  He  considers  Shalmaneser  to  be  the  prede- 
oeasor  of  Sargon,  who  went  \ip  against  Jerusalem  in  his  last  year,  b.o.  722.  "  The 
king  of  Assyria,"  that  is  Sargon,  took  the  city  in  his  second  year,  n.c.  730.  In  either 
case,  no  monument  whatever  has  yet  been  discovered  bearing  the  name  of  this  king. 
There  is  certainly  nothing  in  Scripture  to  identify  the  two  names  as  belonging  to  the 
same  king,  except  that  tlirir  general,  in  buih  instances.,  is  called  Tartan,  which  we 
now  find  from  the  inscriptions  was  merely  the  common  title  of  the  commander  of  tiw 
AjBvrrian  annies. 


«S8 


NINEVEH  AND  BABTLON. 


[Chap.  VI. 


ftmnd  at  Kouyunjik.*  Some  of  the  slabs,  indeed,  were  almost  entire,  thoogh 
cracked  and  otherwise  injured  by  fire  ;  and  the  epig^raph,  which  fortunate- 
ly explained  the  event  portrayed,  was  complete.  These  bas-reliefs  repre- 
sented the  siege  and  capture  by  the  Assyrians,  of  a  city  evidently  of  great 
extent  and  importance.  It  appears  to  have  been  defended  by  double  walls, 
with  battlements  and  towers,  and  by  fortified  outworks.  The  country  around 
it  was  hilly  and  wooded,  produi-ing  the  fig  and  the  vine.  The  whole  power 
of  the  great  king  seems  to  have  been  called  forth  to  take  this  stronghold. 
In  no  other  sculptures  were  so  many  armed  warriors  seen  drawn  up  in 
ray  before  a  besieged  city.  In  the  first  rank  were  the  kneeling  archem; 
those  in  the  second  were  bending  forward,  whilst  those  in  the  third  dis- 
charged their  arrows  standing  upright,  and  were  mingled  with  spearmen 
and  slingers  ;  the  whole  forming  a  compact  and  organised  phalan.\.  The 
reaerve  consisted  of  large  bodies  of  horsemen  and  charioteers.  Against  the 
fortifications  had  been  throA^ii  up  as  many  as  ten  banks  or  mounts,  compact- 
ly built  of  stones,  bricks,  earth,  and  branches  of  trees,  and  seven  buttering- 
rams  had  already  been  rolled  up  to  the  walls.  The  besieged  defended  ihem- 
selves  with  great  determination.  Spearmen,  archers,  and  slingers  thronged 
the  battlements  and  towers,  showering  anows,  javelins,  stones,  and  blazing 
torches  upon  the  asaailanls.  On  the  battoring-rams  were  bowmen  discharg- 
ing their  arrows,  and  men  with  large  ladles  pouring  water  upon  the  flaimng 
brands,  which,  hurled  from  above,  threatened  to  destroy  the  engines.  Lad- 
ders, probably  used  for  escalade,  "were  falling  from  the  walls  upon  the  sol- 
diers who  mounted  the  inclined  ways  to  the  assault.  Part  of  the  city  h&d, 
however,  been  taken.  Beneath  its  walls  were  seen  Assyrian  warriors  im- 
paling their  prisoners,  and  from  the  gateway  of  an  advanced  tower,  or  fort, 
issued  a  procession  of  captives,  reaching  to  the  presence  of  the  king,  who, 
gorgeously  arrayed,  received  them  seated  on  his  throne.  Amongst  the  b| 
were  furniture,  arms,  shiolJs,  chariots,  vases  of  metal  of  various  forms, 
els,  carts  drawn  by  oxen,  and  laden  with  women  and  children,  and  many 
objects  the  nature  of  which  cannot  be  determined.  The  vanquished  peo- 
ple were  distinguished  from  the  conquerors  by  their  dress,  those  who  de- 
fended the  battlements  wore  a  pointed  helmet,  difl'eriug  from  that  of  the 
Assyrian  warriors  in  having  a  fringed  lappet  falling  over  the  oars.  Some 
of  the  captives  had  a  kind  of  turban  with  one  end  hanging  down  to  the 
shoulder,  not  unlike  that  worn  by  the  modern  Arabs  of  the  Heiljaz.  Others 
had  no  head-dress,  and  short  hair  and  beards.  Their  garments  consisted 
either  of  a  robe  reaching  to  the  ankles,  or  of  a  tunic  scarcely  falling  towei 
than  the  thigh,  and  confined  at  the  waist  by  a  girdle.  The  latter  ap 
peared  to  be  the  dress  of  the  fighting-men.  The  women  wore  long  shirts, 
with  an  outer  cloak,  thrown,  like  the  veil  of  modern  Eastern  ladies,  over  the 
back  of  the  head  and  faUing  to  the  feet. 

Several  prisoners  were  already  in  the  hands  of  the  torturers.     Two  were 
Stretched  naked  on  the  ground  lo  be  ilayed  alive,  others  were  being  slain 
♦  No.  XXXVI.    Plan  I.    38  feet  by  18. 


Ciur.  Yl  ] 


SIEQE  OF  LACHISH. 


127 


by  the  sword  before  the  throne  of  the 
king.  The  haughty  monarch  was  re- 
ceiving the  chiefs  of  the  conquered  na- 
tion, who  crouched  and  knelt  humbly  be- 
fore him.  They  were  brought  into  the 
royal  presence  by  the  Tartan  of  the  As- 
syrian forces,  probably  the  Ralmhakeh 
himself,  followed  by  his  principal  officers. 
The  general  was  clothed  in  embroidered 
robes,  and  wore  on  his  head  a  fillet  adorn- 
ed with  rosettes  and  long  tasseled  bands. 
The  throne  of  the  king  stood  upon  an 
elevated  platform,  probably  an  artificial 
mound,  in  the  hill  country.  Its  arms  and 
sides  were  supported  by  Uires  rows  of  fig- 
ures one  above  the  other.  The  wood 
was  richly  carved,  or  encased  in  emboss- 
ed metal,  and  the  legs  ended  in  pine- 
shaped  ornaments,  probably  of  bronze. 
The  throne,  indeed,  appears  to  have  re- 
sembled, in  every  respect,  one  discovered 
in  the  north-west  palace  at  iNimroud, 
which  I  shall  hereafter  describe.*  Over 
the  high  back  was  thrown  an  embroid- 
ered cloth,  doubtless  of  some  rare  and 
beautiful  material. 
Tbe  royal  feet  rested  upon  a  high  footstool  of  elegant  form,  fashioned  like 
the  throne,  and  cased  with  embossed  metal ;  the  legs  ending  iu  lion's  paws. 
Behind  the  king  were  two  attendant  eunuchs  raising  fans  above  his  head, 
■nd  holding  the  embroidered  napkins. 

The  monarch  himself  was  attired  in  long  loose  robes  richly  ornamented, 
aod  edged  with  tassels  and  fringes.  In  his  right  hand  he  raised  two  ar- 
rows, and  his  left  rested  upon  a  bow ;  an  attitude,  probably  denoting  tri- 
nmph  over  his  enemies,  and  in  which  he  is  usually  portrayed  when  receiving 
prisoners  after  a  victory. 

Behind  the  king  was  the  royal  tent  or  pavilion :+  and  beneath  him  were 
his  led  horses,  and  an  attendant  on  foot  carrying  the  parasol,  the  emblem 
of  royalty.  His  two  chariots,  with  their  charioteers,  were  waiting  for  him. 
One  had  a  peculiar  semicircular  ornament  of  considerable  size,  rising  from 
the  pole  between  the  horses,  and  spreading  over  their  heads  It  may  orig- 
inally have  contained  the  figure  of  a  deity,  or  some  mythic  symbol.  It  was 
•  Chap.  VIII. 

t  I  presume  this  to  be  a  tent,  or  moveable  dwelling-place.  It  is  evidently  sup- 
ported by  ropes.  Above  it  is  an  inscription  declaring  that  it  is  "  the  tent  (')  (tbe  word 
teems  to  read  tarata)  of  Sennachenb,  king  of  Assyria." 


Hwinirtunb  «i  liw  Throne  liefne  LaelUah- 


1<>S  NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON.  [ChAP.  71. 

attached  to  tho  chariot  by  that  singular  contrivance  joined  to  the  yoke  and 
represented  in  the  early  sculptures  of  Nimroud,  the  use  and  nature  of  which 
I  am  still  unable  to  explain.*  This  part  of  the  chariot  was  richly  adorned 
with  figures  and  ornamental  designs,  and  appeared  to  be  supported  by  a 
prop  resting  on  the  pole.  The  trappings  of  the  horses  were  handsomely  dee- 
orated,  and  an  embroidered  cloth,  hung  with  tassels,  fell  on  their  chests. 
Two  quivers,  holding  a  bow,  a  hatchet,  and  arrows,  were  fixed  to  the  side 
of  the  chariot. 

This  fine  scries  of  bas-reliefs,!  occupying  thirteen  slabs,  was  finished  by 
the  ground-plan  of  a  castle,  or  of  a  fortified  camp  containing  tents  and 
houses.  Within  the  walls  was  also  seen  a  fire-altar  with  two  beardless 
priests,  wearing  high  conical  caps,  standing  before  it.  In  front  of  the  altar, 
on  which  burned  the  sacred  flame,  was  also  a  table  bearing  various  sacri- 
ficial objects,  and  beyond  it  two  sacred  chariots,  such  as  accompanied  the 
Persian  kings  in  their  wars.t  The  horses  had  been  taken  out,  and  the  ydces 
rested  upon  stands.  Each  chariot  carried  a  lofty  pole  surmounted  by  a 
globe,  and  long  tassels  or  streamers ;  similar  standards  were  introdooed  into 
scenes  representing  sacrifices^  in  the  sculptures  of  Khorsabad. 
.  Above  the  head  of  the  king  was  the  following  inscription, 

I  ►+<«  A-  f<«  'tfy « 1 «  v-  — V 
h  -er  eel  -clT  -ET  <&  sen 

•which  may  be  translated,  "Sennacherib,  the  mighty  king,  king  of  the 
country  of  Assyria,  sitting  on  the  throne  of  judgment,  before  (or  at  the 
entrance  of)  the  city  of  Lachish  (Lakhisha).  I  give  permission  for  its 
slaughter." 

Here,  therefore,  was  the  actual  picture  of  the  taking  of  Lachish,  the  ci^, 
as  we  know  from  the  Bible,  besieged  by  Sennacherib,  when  he  sent  his  gen- 
erals to  demand  tribute  of  Hezekiah,  and  which  he  had  captured  before 
their  return  ;l|  evidence  of  the  most  remarkable  character  to  confirm  the  in- 
terpretation of  the  inscriptions,  and  to  identify  the  king  who  caused  them 
to  be  engraved  with  the  Sennacherib  of  Scripture.    This  highly  interesting 

*  It  has  boon  suggested  to  me  that  it  may  have  been  a  case  in  which  to  place  the 
Ik)W  ;  but  tlu>  bow  and  arrowa  are  contained  in  the  quiver  suspended  to  the  side  of 
tho  chariot 

I  For  detailed  drawings,  see  2nd  scries  of  the  Monuments  of  Nmeveh,  Plates  SO. 
to  24  t  Xeiiophon,  Cyrop.  Ivii.  c. :).    Quintus  Curtius,  Uii.  c.  3. 

^  Dotta'H  Monuinons  dc  Ninivo,  Plate  146. 

II  2  Kings,  xviii.  14.  Isaiah  .\xxvi  3.  From  2  Kings,  xix.  8.,  and  Isaiah,  xxzvu. 
8  ,  we  may  infer  that  the  city  soon  yielded. 


JrwiMti  I  n(itiv<'4  rririii  Larliinh  {Kiiuytiiijik] 


series  of  bas-reliefs  contained,  moreover,  an  undoubted  representation  of  a 
king,  a  city,  and  a  people,  with  whose  namt^s  we  are  acquainted,  and  of  an 
event  described  in  Holy  Writ.  They  fiiriiish  iis,  therefore,  wilh  iilustra- 
tions  of  the  Bible  of  verj'  great  importance.*  The  captives  were  wndoubl- 
cdly  Jews,  their  physiognomy  was  strikingly  indicated  in  the  sculptures,  but 
they  had  been  stripped  of  their  ornaments  and  their  fine  raiment,  and  were 
left  barelooled  and  hiiif-clolhed.  From  the  women,  too,  liad  been  removed 
"the  splendor  of  the  foot  oniaments  and  the  caps  of  network,  and  the  crea- 
cents;  the  ear-pendents,  and  the  bracelets,  and  the  ihia  veils;  the  head- 
dress, and  the  ornaments  of  the  legs  and  the  girdles,  and  the  perfume-boxes 
and  the  amulets;  the  rings  and  the  jewels  of  the  nose;  the  embroidered 
robes  and  the  tunics,  and  the  cloaks  and  the  satchels;  the  transparent  gar- 
ments, and  the  hue  linen  vests,  and  the  turbans  and  the  mantles,  "for  they 
wore  instead  of  a  girdle,  a  rope;  and  instead  of  a  stomacher,  a  girdling  of 
sackcloth,  "t 

•  Ctil.  RawlitiKnn  has,  I  am  aware,  drnicJ  lUal  tliis  ts  ilie  l>Aoliisb  menlioned  ir» 
Scripture,  wlni:h  hf  id*'ntifi<"s  ivilli  the  All  .  . .  ku  of  the  huH  iiisfTipttons,  ;in(l  place* 
on  the  sea-coast  k'tiveen  (Juza  and  KJunocokira.  (Oullines  of  Assyriiiii  History,  p 
xxxri.)  Bttl  I  believe  lliis  tlicory  to  be  imlenahlc.  and  I  am  suppuned  in  tbis  view 
of  the  suhjfrt  by  Dr.  HI  neks,  w  bo  alsci  rejcta  Col.  Rawliuson's  readuig  of  I.ubana 
(Libnah).  Laclusli  is  mentioned  Hiiiongst  "the  uttermost  cities  of  the  tribe  of  Ju- 
dah."  (Joshua,  xv  39.)  From  verse  21  to  32  we  have  one  categor>'  of  tweiily-nine 
citjyea  "lowani  the  cuaal  of  Edoni  sutiibward,"  The  uixt  eait-gory  appears  to  ex- 
tend to  verse  46,  and  irii'ludea  cities  in  tbe  vaLey,  amongst  wbich  is  Laehish,  We 
then  come  to  .-^shdod  and  the  sea  U  wiis  ihcrernre  certainly  situated  in  the  hill 
country     <See  also  Itobmson's  Biblical  Kcacarclies  in  Palestine,  vol  ii.  p.  388.) 

t  Isaiah,  ili.  IS-^'l,  &c.  (.See  translation  by  the  Rev.  J.  Junes.)  'niis  descrip^ 
tiun  of  the  various  articles  of  dress  wi»rn  by  the  Jewish  women  is  exceedingly  inter- 
esting. Most  of  the  orna!iiefit.-i  finniU'rated,  prnhaMy  indeed  the  whole  of  tbein.  If 
we  were  acquamtirfl  with  the  eNaet  meaning  <iftlip  Mpbrew  words,  are  slill  to  be 
itaced  in  the  costumes  of  Eastern  women  iiibnluling  the  same  rnujitry.  Mitny  ap- 
pear to  be  mentioned  in  the  Assyrian  inscnpiions  amongst  objects  of  tribute  and  uf 

I 


130 


NlireVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap  VT. 


Other  corroborative  evidence  aa  to  the  identity  of  the  king  who  built  the 
palace  of  Kouyuiijik  with  Sennacherib,  is  Bcarccly  less  remarkable.     In  a 
chamber,  or  passage,  in  the  BOiuh-west  corner  of  this  edifice,*  were  found 
a  large  number  of  pieces  of  fine  clay  bearing  the   impressions  of  seals.ti 
which,  there  is  no  doubt,  had  been  affixed,  like  modern  otfieial  seals  of' 
wax,  to  documents  written  on  leather,  papyrus,  or  parchment.     Such  docu- 
ments, with  seals  in  clay  still  attached,  have  been  discovered  in  Egypt,  andJ 
specimens  are  preserved  in  the  British  Museum.     The  WTitings  themselves 
had  been  consumed  by  the  fire  which  destroyed  the  biiililing  or  had  per- 


^!!W^ 


Impression  of  a  Seal  on  Clay. 


Hvk  at  lite  aamn  Soil,  atlowini  Ihr  Mark! 
or  the  Siring  iiHi  tlir  FiugrrH. 


iehed  from  decay  In  the  stamped  clay,  however,  may  still  be  seen  the 
holes  for  the  string,  or  strips  of  skin,  by  which  the  seal  was  fastened  ;  in 
some  mstances  the  ashes  of  the  string  itself  remain, |  with  the  marks  of 
the  fingers  and  thumb. 

The  greater  part  of  these  seals  are  Aagyrian,  but  with  them  are  oth«n 
bearing  Egyptian.  Phccnicran,  and  doubtful  symbols  and  characters.  Some- 
times the  same  seal  is  impressed  more  than  once  on  the  same  piece  of  clay. 
The  Assyrian  devices  are  of  various  kinds;  the  most  common  is  that  of  a 
king  plunging  a  dagger  into  the  body  of  a  rani[)aiil  lion.  Thia  appears  to 
have  been  the  royal,  and,  indeed,  the  national,  seal  or  signet.  It  la  fre- 
quently encircled  by  a  short  inscription,  which  has  not  yet  been  deciphered, 
or  by  a  simple  gwilloche  border  The  same  group,  emblematic  of  the  su- 
perior power  and  wisdom  of  the  king,  as  well  as  of  hia  sacred  character,  is 
found  on  Assyrian  cylinders,  gems,  and  monuments.  From  the  ABsyriaus 
it  was  adopted  by  the  Persians,  and  appears  upon  the  walls  of  Persepolis 
and  on  the  coins  of  Darius. 

Other  devices  finind  among  these  impressions  of  seals  are  : — 1.  A  king, 
attended  by  a  priest,  in  act  of  adoration  before  a  deity  standing  on  a  lion, 
&nd  surrounded  by  seven  stars :  above  the  god's  head,  on  one  seal,  is  a 

spoil  brought  to  ilie  king.  See  also  Ezekiel  xvi.  10 — 14  far  an  account  of  the  dress ' 
ol  the  Jewish  women.  *  No.  LXI.     Plan  I. 

t  Kescnibling  the  yr)  cmtioyrfAi  (the  scabng  earth)  of  the  Greeks. 

{  M  Bulla  iilM>  found,  ai  Khorsabad,  the  ashes  of  ethng  in  lumps  of  clay  impressed  1 
vvjih  a  seal,  without  benig  aware  of  their  onsm. 


Chap.  VI  J 


PHCKTnciAW  SEALS 


scorpion.  2.  The  king,  fuliowcd  by  an  attendant  bearing;  a  parasol,  and 
preceded  by  a  rampant  horse.  3.  A  god,  or  the  king,  probably  the  former, 
rising  from  a  crescent.  There  appears  to  be  a  liah  in  Iroiit  oi  the  figure. 
4.  The  king,  with  an  eunneh  or  priest  before  him  ;  a  (lower,  or  ornament- 
ed staff,  between  them.  5.  A  scorpion,  surrounded  by  a  guilloclie  border 
(a  device  of  very  frequent  occurrence,  and  probably  astronomical).  6.  A 
priest  worshippmg  before  a  god,  encircled  by  stars.  7.  A  priest  worship- 
ping before  a  god.  Behind  him  are  a  bull,  and  the  sacred  astronomical 
emblems.  8.  An  ear  of  corn,  surrounded  by  a  fancy  border.  9.  An  object 
resembling  a  dagger,  with  Howers  attached  to  the  handle  ;  perhaps  a  sac- 
rificial knife.  10.  The  head  of  a  bull  and  a  trident,  two  sacred  symbols 
of  frequent  occurrence  on  Assyrian  monuments  11.  A  crescent  in  Iho 
midst  of  a  many-rayed  star.  12.  Several  rudely  cut  seals,  representing 
pi'iesta  and  various  sacred  animals,  stars,*  ko. 

The  seals  most  remarkable  fur  beauty  of  design  and  skilful  execntion 

represent  horsemen,  one  at  full  8|)eed 
raiging  a  spear,  the  other  hunting  a 
stag.  The  impressions  (how  that 
they  were  little  inferior  to  Greek  in- 
taglios. No  Assyrian  or  Babylonian 
relics  yet  discovered,  equal  them  in 
delicacy  of  workmanship,  and  the 
AMyriM  st*j.  ^^^^  examples  of  the  art  of  engraving 

gems, — an  art  wliich  appears  to  have  reached  great  perfection  amongst 
the  Assyrians, — are  unknown  to  us,  except  through  these  impressions. 
There  arc  three  seals  apparently  Phttnician ;  two  of  them  bearing  Phmni- 

cian  character8,t  for  which  I  can- 
not suggest  any  interpretation. 
A  few  have  doubtful  symbols 
upnn  them,  which  I  will  not  at- 
tempt to  explam  ;  perhaps  hiero- 
glyphtcal  signs. 

Of  the   purely  Egj'ptian  seals 
there  are  fuiir.    One  has  two  car- 
rhirnicisn  se»)».  touches  placed  on  the  symbol  of 

gold,  and  each  surmounted  by  a  tall  plume ;  they  probably  contained  the 
prajnomen  and  name  of  a  king,  but  not  the  slightest  trace  remains  of  the 
hieroglyphs.  The  impression  is  concave,  havmg  been  made  from  a  convex 
surface:  the  bark  of  some  of  the  Egyptian  ovals,  the  rudest  form  of  the 
scarabteus,  are  of  this  shape.  On  the  second  seal  is  the  figure  of  iSie  Egj'p 
tion  god  Harpocrates,  seated  on  a  lotus  flower,  with  his  linger  plactnl  upon 

♦  For  engravings  of  these  seals,  see  2nd  series  of  Monunipnts  of  Nitieveh,  Plaie  69 
t  It  b,  however,  possible  that  these  charactera  may  belong  to  some  oilier  Semiiie 

nation,  as  a  cursive  alphabet,  having  a  close  resemblance  lo  tlie  Plueiiician,  was  uaed 

from  Tadmor  to  Babylon. 


132 


NINBVER  AND  DABVLON. 


(Chap.  VI. 


his  mouth  ;  on  attitude  in  which  he  is  represented  on  an  ivory  from  Nim- 

rouil      The  hieroglyph  before  hitn  does 
not  appear  to  be  Egryptian. 

But  the  most  remarkable  and  im- 
portant of  the  Egyptian  seals  arc  two 
impressions  of  a  royal  signet,  which, 
though  imperfect,  retain  the  cartouche, 
with  the  name  of  the  king,  so  as  to  be 
perfectly  legible.  It  is  one  well  known  to  Egyptian  scholars,  as  that  of 
the  second  Sabaco  the  ^Ethiopian,  of  the  twenty-fifth  dynasty.  On  the 
same  piew  of  clay  is  impressed  an  Assynan  seal,  with  a  device  representing 
a  priest  niitiistering  before  the  king,  probably  a  royal  sinrnet 


Egjipliin  Seals. 


ti 


Imprfuion*  oribe  Sign«ti  oDIie  Kings  of  AMfrla 
and  Egypt     (Oj-iginsl  Site  ) 


PBrt  of  fnrfniirhc  of  Sabnco,  niilargvd 
from  (tu!  hnpresnoii  urhia  SipicL 


There  can  be  no  doubt  whatever  as  to  the  identity  of  the  cartouche.* 

*  ]  am  iiitlehied  to  Mr.  Uirch  for  the  following  remarks  upon  Ihia  seal : — "The 
moat  jmporlaiit  nfilie  numerous  seals  discovered  al  Kouyiinjik  is  one  which  has  re- 
reived  two  jtiipressions — an  Assyrian,  representing  a  pers(->na)!t'  m  ailnratioii  before 
a  deiiy ;  and  a  second,  with  the  representation  and  name  of  the  Egyplian  nionan-b, 
Sabaco.  of  Ute  iwciity-fifth  dj-nasly  of.Etlnopiaris,  and  evidently  impressed  from  a 
roydl  Egyptian  seal.  Similar  impressions  are  liy  ni>  means  unknnwii.  and  a  few  ex- 
amples have  reached  the  present  lime.  Not  to  insianee  the  clay  seals  taind  uttach- 
pd  lo  the  rolb  uf  papyrus  containing  letters  written  in  llie  time  of  the  Pioleiniea  and 
Komans.  tliire  arc  in  ihe  British  Museum  seals  tieariiig  the  name  of  Ktinshank  or 
Shisluik  uNo  5.')«&  )  uf  .\inasia  II.  of  the  twi:nty-ai.\ih  dynasty  (No.  ,'i,'>8-l.)  and  of 
Nafiiarut  m  Ncplierophis.  of  itie  iwenly-nnih  dynasty  (No.  5585.).  Such  seals  were, 
tlieiel'me.  adi.vcd  t>y  the  Ffjiyptiana  to  puhlic  dociinienis.  and  it  was  in  ai-conlance 
with  this  principle,  coinmtui  to  Ihe  twit  monarchies,  iliat  the  seal  of  the  Egyptian 
king  has  been  linmd  in  .Xssyria  It  appears  to  have  been  impressed  from  an  oval,  in 
all  prohahilily  Ihe  bcM-l  ol  a  inciallic  linger  ring,  like  the  celchralcd  seal  of  Cheops; 
in  this  case  an  oval,  two  inches  in  lengih,  hy  one  iiicli  wide.  The  king  Sahaco  is 
tepresentcd  upon  the  left  in  an  .iction  very  commonly  seen  m  the  hisiuncal  moiiu- 
meilts  of  Egypt,  wearinR  the  red  cap  Uzkr  He  bends  down,  seiamg  with  his  left 
luiiid  the  hair  uf  the  head  of  an  enemy,  whom  lie  is  about  to  smite  with  a  kind  of 
inaoe  or  axe  in  Ins  right,  having  slung  Ins  bow  at  his  side  Above  and  before  hint 
ar«  hieroglyphs,  expressing  IVttr  nfr  nb  «r  (hi  Shabaka.  'the  [>eifecl  GuA.  the  Loid 
who  produces  (lungs,  Shabaka  (or  Sabaco) '  Behind  is  an  expression  of  constant  oc- 
currence in  Egyptian  texts    tha  {t)ancktia /,  *ltfe  follows  hia  head.'    Ahhongh  nu 


Sabaco  reigned  in  Egypt  at  the  end  of  the  seventh  century  before  Christ, 
the  exact  time  at  which  Sennacherib  came  to  the  throne.     He  is  probably 

figure  of  any  deity  is  seen,  the  hieroglyphs  at  the  leA  edge  show  that  the  king  was 
perfonning  this  action  before  one — ma,  tut  nak,  '  I  have  given  to  thee,'  which  must 
have  been  foiloweJ  by  some  »ucli  expression  as  •  a  perfect  hfe," '  ail  enemies  or  coun* 
tries  nnder  thy  sandals.'  It  is  impossible  to  deierniitie  which  god  of  the  Pantheon 
was  there,  probably  Araon-lta,  or  the  Thcban  Jupiter.  These  seals,  therefore,  a»- 
stime  a  most  important  character  as  to  the  synchronism  of  the  two  nion^trchies. 
Tlierc  can,  indeed,  be  no  doubt  that  the  SItahak  found  upon  them  is  tlie  usual  king 
of  the  inscriptions ;  and  it  is  owing  alone  to  the  ccMifusinn  of  Herodotus  ami  Diodorus 
that  the  difficulty  of  idenlifying  the  true  chronologiral  (tosition  has  occurred.  The 
twenly-fifth  dynasty  of  Manetho,  according  to  all  three  versionB,  consisted  of  three 
^ihiopic  kings,  the  seal  of  whose  empire  was  originally  at  Gcbel  Darkal,  or  Napata. 
and  who  subsequently  conquered  the  whole  of  Kgypl.  Tlic  first  monarch  of  this  hne 
was  called  Sabaco  by  the  CJreek  writers  ;  the  second  Seltechos,  or  Seuechos,  bis  son; 
the  third  was  Tarkos  or  Taracus.  Now,  correaiMJoding  to  Sabaeon  atid  Seuechos 
are  two  kmgs,  or  at  least  two  prmomcns,  each  with  the  name  of  Shabak  :  one  reads 
Roi-ntfer-kar,  the  other  Kti-ial-karu,  although  (he  correctness  of  this  last  prienomen  is 
denied,  and  It  is  aiiserted  that  only  one  kang  is  found  on  the  Dtonumenta.  Even  the 
existence  of  the  first  Shabak  or  Sabaeon  is  contested,  and  the  eight  or  twelve  years 
of  bis  reign  credited  to  his  successor ;  and  it  la  remarkable  to  find  that  in  two  ver- 
sions of  Manetho  each  reigned  twelve  years.  Still  the  non-appearance  of  the  first 
Sliabak  on  the  monuments  of  Egypt  would  he  inieltigible,  owing  to  the  trouble  he 
may  have  had  tu  establish  his  siway,  atthouyU  then  it  wuulrl  be  probable  that  he  should 
be  found  at  Napala,  his  .^thicipiiin  capital.  As  Uosellmi,  however,  gives  so  distinct- 
ly the  second  prcnomen  (M.K.  cli.  5.),  it  is  diflicuU  lu  conceive  that  it  does  not  exist. 
In  the  other  scenes  at  Kamak,  >Shabak,  wearing  the  upper  and  tower  crown,  sliow- 
ing  his  rule  over  the  Delta,  is  seen  embraced  by  Athor  ami  Anien-t,  or  T-Amen 
(Roseil.  M.R.  cli.  2  and  3),  or  else  wearing  a  plain  bead-dress,  he  is  received  by 
Amen  and  Mut ;  hut  as  he  is  unaccompanied  by  bis  pra;noinen,  it  is  uncertain  whether 
Shabak  I.  or  Shabak  If  is  intended.  In  the  legends,  .Slinbak  H.  is  sEiid  to  he  *  crowned 
on  the  tlirone  of  Tum  (Tomos>  like  the  sun  for  ever,'  frorti  which  it  is  evident  that 
Sabaco  claimed  to  be  at  that  time  king  of  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt.  The  hypothesis 
originally  proposed  by  Marsham  (  i  Chron.  Com.  p.  457.),  and  subsequently  adopted 
by  otliers  is,  that  Sabaco  is  the  king  .Sua  or  So,  mentioned  in  Kings,  Jtvii  4.,  t«  whom 
Hoshea,  in  the  sixth  year  of  his  reign,  sent  an  embassy.  'Against  him  came  up 
Shahnancscr  king  of  Aswyria;  and  Hoshea  became  his  servant,  and  gave  htm  pres- 
ents. And  the  king  «f  Assyria  found  conspiracy  in  Hoshea:  for  he  had  sent  mes- 
sengers to  So  king  of  Egypt,  and  brought  no  present  to  the  king  of  .VsKyrui,  as  he 
bail  done  year  by  year:  therefore  the  king  of  Assyria  shut  him  up,  and  bound  liim  in 
prison.'  According  to  some  chronologers,  this  was  ii.  c.  723 — 723.  (Winer,  Utbl. 
Keal-Worterbuch,  li.  s.  876.  Mil,  i.  7ao  f);  according,  hnwever,  to  De  Vignolles, 
721 — 720.  Of  the  later  chronologisis,  Kosellini  places  Sabaco  I.  b.  c.  719.,  and  Sa- 
baco 11  B.  c.  7(17- ;  Sir  CJardiier  Wilkinson,  a.  c.  778—728.  If  Sabai'o  he  really  So, 
the  reckoning  of  Kosellini  atnl  Uockh  (Maiielho,  s.  393  ),  b.  c.  711.,  for  Sabaco  II.  is 
nearest  the  truth.  The  name  of  So  is  written  RID'  K'O'  Sva  or  Sia.  The  great 
difficulty  is  the  dreadful  confusion  of  the  period.  Tlie  duration  of  the  .-Ethiopian 
dynasty,  according  to  Africanus  and  Euschius,  is, 

Ycor«.  Ye»r». 

Sabac«n      -  -  -  -8  (.'\fricanu8)  12  (Eusebius) 

Seuechos    -  -  -  -  14  „  13         „ 

Taracus      .  -  -  -  IS         „  SO         „ 

Total  -  .  -  40  44 


134 


NINEVBH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  VI. 


the  So  menUoikcd  in  the  second  book  of  Kings  (xvii.  4.)  ob  having  u-ceived 
ambasBadors  from  Hoeliea,  the  king  of  Israel,  who,  by  entering  into  a  league 
with  the  Egyptians,  called  dawn  the  vengeance  of  Shalmaneser,  whose 
tributary  he  was,  which  led  to  the  first  great  captivity  of  the  people  of 
tsunmria.  Shalmaneser  M'e  know  to  have  been  an  immediate  predecessor 
of  Sennacherib,  and  Tirakhah,  the  Egyptian  king,  who  was  defeated  by 
the  Assyrians  near  Lachieh,  was  the  immediate  successor  of  Sabaco  II. 

It  wunld  seem  that  a  peace  having  been  eonchnled  between  the  Egyp- 
tians and  one  of  the  Assyrian  inonarchs,  probably  £?ennachenb,  the  royal 
signets  of  the  two  kings,  thus  fonnd  together,  were  attached  to  the  treaty, 
which  was  deposited  amongst  the  archives  of  the  kingdom.  Whilst  the 
document  itaelf,  written  npon  parchment  or  papyrns,  has  completely  per- 
islied,  this  singular  proof  of  the  alliance,  if  not  actual  meeting,  of  the  two 
mouarchs  is  still  preserved  amidst  the  remains  of  the  state  papers  of  the 
Assyrian  empire  ;  furnishing  one  of  the  most  remarkable  instances  of  con- 
firmatory evidence  on  record,*  whether  we  regard  it  as  verifying  the  cor- 
rectness of  the  interpretation  of  the  cuneiform  character,  or  as  an  illustra- 
tion of  Scripture  history, 

Little  doubt,  I  trust,  can  now  exist  in  the  minds  of  my  readers  as  to  the 

Herodnius  (ii.  152.),  in  his  usual  confusioii,  places  Sabaco,  (wlio,  he  says,  reigned 
lifter  Aiiysis,  a  bliiitl  niitn,  wlio  Act]  to  the  island  of  Elbo  in  the  marshes,)  after  My- 
rcrinus,  of  the  fourth  dyniisty,  and  alate»  thai  he  reiKited  fifty  years,  more  than  the 
whole  time  of  the  dyiirt.>ity.  Dtudorua  pliiced  Sabnco  after  Uoechoris,  whom,  he  de- 
clares, he  burnt  alive.  This  might  he  the  dct'tl  of  .Sabnco  I ,  while  the  burning  of 
Ne<^hao  I.  may  have  hren  the  act  of  .Sahaco  II,  Henee,  M.  Bunspii  (.^egyplen* 
Stellc,  lii.  137,  138),  and  I.epsius  have  adopted  the  hypothesis  that  the  twenty-fifth 
and  twenty-sixth  dynasties  were  ctintcmporaneous,  and  that  the  o<i|iital  of  the  jEthi- 
opian  dynasty  was  at  Mapata,  or  Ml,  Barkal,  wlirnee,  from  time  to  time,  the  .Ethi- 
opians Bucecssfiilly  invaded  Egj-pt.  or  (lie  hypotlieaia  that  Anienarlas,  the  .Ethiopian, 
was  not  expelled  when  the  Saites  commenced  their  reign.  (M.  De  Rotigec,  Exam, 
ii.  p.  G6 ) 

XIIV.  XXTI. 

Stephinates. 

Nechepsos. 

The  Dodi'karchy  (I.*n(rue  of  Xomarchs). 
Psanimetii.'hu9  I.  (M,  Maury:  Rev.  Arch. 
18,'jl,p.  27T.) 


Anysis,  in  the  Delta. 

IXT. 

Saliaco  (Tliebes). 

Sehiclius. 

Ann-nartas. 


Tlie  (Treat  interest  attached  to  the  Kouyunjik  seats  depends  upon  having  the  pre- 
nine  date  of  this  king,  a.-*  iliey  were  probahly  affixed  to  a  treaty  with  Assyria,  or  aome 
nci|;libourin^'  nation.  There  can  t>c  no  doubt  as  to  the  name  of  Sabaco.  Herodotus 
(ii.  lan.)  write.'i  SABAKrtX;  Diiidorns  (i,  59  )  SABAKHN,  Africanus  Sabak6i),  for  the 
first  Siibaid.  and  !<etK'clniB  or  Senechos  [SEBHXA2)  for  the  second.  The  Amienian 
ver»i(>u  reads  Sabbakon,  for  the  name  of  the  first  king  (M.  Boefch,  Maiietho,  326.). 
Some  MSS.  of  the  Septuagint  have  SHrAF  (Segoor).  Cf  Winer,  I.  r. ;  Oesenilts, 
Cotn,  in  Teul.  i.  696.)  It  is  indeed  highly  probable,  that  this  is  the  monarch  men- 
tioned in  the  Rook  of  Kings  as  Sua  or  So,  and  that  his  seal  was  affixed  Co  some  treaty 
between  Assyria  and  Egy[jt." 

*  Tlie  impressions  of  the  signets  of  the  Egyptian  and  .A,&8yrian  kings,  besides  a 
lurtje  collection  of  seals  found  in  Kouyunjik,  are  now  in  the  British  MtiBeiiin. 


JhXp.  VI J 


identilication  of  the  builder  of  the  pulace  of  Kouj'unjik,  with  the  Senna- 
cherib of  iiSoriplurc.  Had  the  name  sIixmI  alone,  we  might  reasonably  have 
questioned  the  correctness  of  the  reading,  eBpecially  as  the  signs  or  mono- 
gramB,  with  which  it  is  written,  are  admitted  to  have  no  phonetic  power. 
But  when  characters,  whose  alphabetic  values  have  been  determined  from  a 
perfectly  distinct  source,  such  as  the  Babylonian  cohimn  of  the  trilingual 
inscriptions,  furnish  us  with  names  in  the  records  attributed  to  8eimacherib. 
written  almost  identically  as  in  the  Hebrew  version  of  the  Bible,  such  as 
Hezekiah,  Jerusalem,  Judah,  (>idon,  and  others,  and  all  occurrmg  in  one 
and  the  same  paragraph,  their  reading,  moreover,  confirmed  by  synchro- 
nisms, and  illustrated  by  sculptured  representations  of  the  events,  the  identi- 
fication must  be  admitted  to  be  complete. 

The  palace  of  Kborsabad,  as  I  have  already  observed,  was  built  by  the 
father  of  Sennacherib.  The  edifice  in  the  south-west  corner  of  Nimroud 
was  raised  by  the  son,  as  we  learn  from  the  inscription  on  the  back  of  the 
bulls  discovered  in  that  building  *  The  name  of  the  king  is  admitted  to 
be  Essarhaddon,  and  there  are  events,  as  it  will  hereafter  be  seen,  men- 
tioned in  his  records,  which  further  tend  to  identify  him  with  the  Essar- 
haddon of  fc>criplure,  who,  after  the  murder  of  hia  father  Sennacherib,  suc- 
ceeded to  the  throne. 

I  may  mention  in  conclusion,  as  connected  with  the  bulls  forming  the 
grand  entrance,  that  in  the  rubbish  at  the  foot  of  one  of  them  were  found 
four  cylinders  and  several  beads,  with  a  scorpion  in  lapis  lazuli,  all  appar- 
ently once  strung  together.     On  one  cylinder  of  translucent  green  felspar, 

called  amazon  stone,  which  I  believe  to 
have  been  the  signet,  or  amulet,  of  Sen- 
nacherib himself  is  engraved  the  king 
standing  in  an  arched  frame  as  on  the 
nick  tablets  at  Bavian,  and  at  the  Nahr- 
el-Kelb  in  Syria.  He  holds  in  one  hand 
the  sacrificial  mace,  and  raises  the  other 
-  in  the  act  of  adoration  before  the  wiitged 
Hoymi  Cylinder  or SeDniichertii  figure  in  a  circle,  hero  represented  as  a 

tnad  with  three  heads.  This  mode  of  portraying  this  emblem  is  very  rare 
on  Assyrian  relics,  and  is  highly  interesting,  as  confirming  the  conjecture 
that  the  mythic  human  figure,  with  the  wings  and  tail  of  a  bird,  inclosed 
in  a  circle,  was  the  symbol  of  the  triune  god,  the  supreme  deity  of  the  As- 
syrians, and  of  the  Persians,  their  successors,  in  the  empire  of  the  East-t 

•  The  relationship  bplween  the  various  As-syrian  kings  whose  names  arc  fmintl  on 
the  monuments,  was  iliscnverecl  hy  tne  during  tlip  first  cxcavatumiJ,  and  puhlifthed  in 
my  Nineveh  and  its  Remams,  vol.  h  2nil  |wirt,  chap.  I.  Colonel  Rawliiison  in  hia 
first  memoir  declares,  ihal  i  hail  been  too  hasty  in  attributing  the  south-west  palace 
to  the  sou  of  SennachiTih.  hut  he  appears  since  to  have  ado()U'd  the  same  opinion. 
(Outlines  iif  Assyrian  Histciry,  p.  40  ) 

t  M  I^aijard  had  conjecluretJ  that  the  component  parts  of  this  representation  of  the 
trmoe  deity  were  a  circle  or  crown  to  denote  time  without  bounds,  or  eternity,  the 


136 


NINEVEH  AND  BAB^XON. 


[Chap   VI 


In  froiil  of  the  king  is  an  curmcli,  anJ  the  sacred  tree, 'whose  flowers  are, 
it)  this  iiislance,  in  ll)c  fomi  of  an  acorn.  A  mountain  goat,  standing-  upon 
a  flower  rcsembliTig  the  lotus  oMupies  the  rest  of  the  cylinder.  The  in- 
taglio of  this  beautiful  gem  is  not  deep  but  sharp  and  distinct,  and  the  de- 
tails arc  HO  minute,  that  a  magnifying  glass  is  almost  required  to  perceive 
them. 

On  a  Pinaller  cylinder,  in  the  same  green  felspar,*  is  a  cuneiform  inscrip- 
tion, which  has  not  yet  been  deciphered,  but  which  does  not  appear  to  con- 
tain any  royal  name.  On  two  cylinders  of  onyx,  also  found  at  Kouyunjik, 
and  now  in  the  British  Museum,  are,  however,  the  namo  and  titles  of  Sen- 
nacherib. 

image  of  Daal  the  supreme  god.  and  the  wings  and  tad  of  a  dove,  to  typify  the  aaao- 
ciatiuii  of  Myhtta,  the  Assyrian  Venus.  (Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  li  p  449 
note.) 

•  A  cylinder,  not  yet  engrave*]  or  pierced,  and  several  beads,  are  in  the  same  ma- 
icrial.  Pari  of  another  cylinder  appeara  to  be  of  a  kind  of  vitreous  cuniposiium.  ( 
shall,  hereafter,  deseribe  the  nature  and  uses  of  these  relics,  which  are  ao  frequently 
found  in  Assyrian  and  Babylonian  ruins. 


'.4-. 


Place  ol  clay  will)  mtprcsaiona  otaeaia. 


.m^: 


Vaulwd  ilnin  iwncnib  ihr  Noriii-wi'ti  Pilu«  •!  Nloiroad 


CHAPTER  VII. 


«0>n    OPEKED    FOR    «RNOV.iL    OP     WIKOKD    I.IONH DISCOVEBY    Of    Vjllll.Tr.P    PKAIN Of 

OTHEI     ARCHES. — OV    rjHITTKn     DIUCKR ATTAlU     OP    THB     Til     OH    THE    VILLAUK     Or 

Nimoon. — viBiT  TO  tmk   mowar  — oisacHii*Tiot«  or  tkk   KNCAMruBNT  or  thk  tai 

Tilt    rLAIJI    or    9II0MAN0K. — SHKIKU    rARAS.  —  WALI    BKY  — RCTt'lN    TO    NIMROllD 

The  g:igantic  human-headed  lions,  first  discovered  in  the  norlh-wesl  pal- 
ace at  Nirnroud,*  wc-re  still  standing  in  their  original  [iosUl*u  Having 
been  carefully  covered  U])  with  earth  previous  to  niy  d«'[)i»rturo  in  1848, 
they  had  been  preserved  from  exposure  to  the  effects  oC  the  weather,  and 
to  wanton  injury  on  the  part  of  the  Arabs  The  Trut<tecs  of  the  British 
luseum  wishing  to  add  these  tine  sculptures  to  the  national  collection  I 
was  directed  to  remove  them  entire  A  road  through  the  ruins,  for  their 
transport  to  the  edge  of  the  mound,  was  in  the  first  place  necessary,  and 
it  was  commenced  early  in  JJecemher  They  would  thus  be  ready  for 
embarkation  as  soon  as  the  waters  of  the  river  were  sullicienlly  high  to 
bear  a  raft  so  heaAhly  laden,  over  the  rapids  and  shallows  between  Nim- 
*  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol  i  p.  6S. 


138 


NINEVEH  AND  BABTLON. 


[Chap.  VII 


roud  and  Baghdad      This  road  was  dug  to  the  level  of  the  pavement  or 

artificial  platform,  and  was  nnt  finished  till  the  end  of  February,  as  a  large 

mass  of  earth  and  rubhish  had  to  be 
taken  away  to  the  depth  of  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet.  During  the  progress  of 
the  work  we  found  some  carved  frag- 
ments of  ivory  similar  to  those  already 
placed  in  the  British  Mufi«»iin ;  and 
two  massive  sockets  in  bronze,  in  which 
turned  the  hinges  of  a  gate  of  the  pal- 
ace. No  remains  of  the  door-posts,  or 
other  parts  of  the  gale,  were  discovered 
in  the  ruins,  and  it  is  uncertain  whether 
these  rings  were  fixed  in  stone  or  wood.* 
In  the  Eoiith-eastern  comer  of  the  mound  tujmels  carried  beneath  the, 

ruined  edifice,  which  is  of  the  seventh  century  B.C.,  showed  the  remain! 

of  aa  earlier  building.     A  vaulted  drain,  about  five  feet  in  width,  was  aiuj 


Bronze  Sockul  oflhr  Psiara  Cute  (Ximroud). 


m 


Vaulted  Drain  bennlh  Siiulh-raiit  Piilare  (Nimroud) 

'  The  sockets,  which  are  now  in  ihe  Bnlish  Museum,  weigh  6lb  3jf>z  ,  the  diam- 
eter of  the  ring  is  ahout  five  inches.  The  hinges  and  Tranies  of  the  brass  gates  at 
Babylon  were  albo  «if  brass  (^Herod.  i   178  ) 


'hap.  VII.] 


irniAN  ARci 


139 


discovered.     The.  arch  was  turned  with  larpe  kiln-burnt  bricks,  and  rested 

Iupon  side  walls  of  the  gaino  material.  The  bricks  being  square,  and  not 
expressly  made  for  vaulting,  a  space  was  left  above  the  centre  oi'the  aroh. 
Which  was  filled  up  by  bricks  laid  lunjsritudinally. 

Although  this  may  not  be  a  perfect  arch,  we  have  seen  from  the  vaulted 

t  chamber  discovered  in  the  very  centre  of  the  high  mound  at  the  north-west 
comer,  that  the  Assyrians  were  well  acquainted  at  an  early  period  with 
its  true  principle.  Other  examples  were  not  wanting  in  the  ruins,  The 
earth  falling  away  from  the  sides  of  the  tleep  trench  opened  in  llie  north- 

»we8t  palace  for  the  removal  of  the  bull  and  lion  during  the  former  excava- 
tions, left  uncovered  the  entrance  to  a  vaulted  drain  or  passage  built  of  sun- 
dried  bricks.  Beneath  was  a  small  watercourse,  inclosed  by  square  pieces 
of  alabaster.*  A  third  arch,  equally  perfect  in  character,  was  found  be- 
neath the  ruins  of  the  south-east  edifice.  A  tunnel  had  been  opened  al- 
most on  a  level  with  the  plain,  and  carried  far  into  the  soulhern  lace  of 
the  mound,  but  without  the  discovery  of  any  other  remains  of  building  than 


^^^\ 


Perfc 


III  S<Hlth-eM(  EdlAca  (Nimroud) 


♦  See  woodcut  at  the  bead  of  this  chapter     This  drain  was  beneaili  clambers  S 
and  T.  of  llie  north-w  est  palace.     (See  Plan  III.     Nineveh  and  1I3  Keuiaitis.  vol  i. 

p.  wy 


140 


ITOTBVSH  XKD  BABTtON. 


[Chap.  VII. 


this  solitary  brick  arch.  This  part  of  the  artificial  elevation  or  pUtrarm 
appears  to  consist  entirely  of  earth,  heaped  up  without  any  attempt  at  reg- 
ular construclion.  It  contained  no  rclica  except  a  few  rude  vessels,  or 
vases,  in  the  coarsest  clay. 

In  the  south-east  corner  of  the  quadrangle,  formed  by  the  low  mounds 
marking  the  walls  once  surroundiug  this  quarter  of  the  city  of  Nineveh,  or 
the  park  attached  to  the  royal  residence,  the  level  of  the  soil  is  considera- 
P,  bly  higher  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  inclosed  space.  This  sudden  in- 
equahty  evidently  indicates  the  site  of  some  ancient  edifice.  Connected 
with  it,  rising  abruptly,  and  almost  perpendicularly,  from  the  plain,  and 
forming  one  of  the  comers  of  the  walls,  is  a  lofty,  irregular  mound,  which 
is  known  to  the  Arabs  by  the  name  of  the  Tel  of  Athur,  the  Lieutenant 
of  Nimroud.*  Tunnels  and  trenches  opened  in  it  showed  nothing  but 
earth,  un mingled  even  witli  bricks  or  Iragiueuts  of  stone.  Remains  of 
walla  and  a  pavement  of  baked  bricks  were,  however,  discovered  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  platform.  The  bricks  had  evidently  been  taken  from 
eonio  other  building,  for  upon  theiii  were  traces  of  colored  figures  and  pat- 
terns, of  the  same  character  as  those  on  the  sculptured  walls  of  the  palaces. 
Their  painted  faces  were  placed  downwards,  as  if  purposely  to  conceal 
them,  and  (lie  designs  upon  them  were  in  most  instances  injured  or  destroy- 
ed. A  few  fragments  were  collected,  and  are  now  in  the  British  Museum. 
The  colors  iiave  faded,  but  were  probably  once  as  bright  as  the  enamels  of 
Khorsabadt  The  outlines  are  white,  and  the  ground  a  pale  blue  and  olive 
green.  The  only  other  color  used  is  a  dull  yellow.  The  most  interesting 
specimens  arc,} 

1.  Four  captives  tied  together  by  their  necks,  the  end  of  the  rope  being 
held  by  the  foremost  prisoner,  whose  hands  are  free,  whilst  the  others  have 
their  arms  bound  behind.  They  probably  formed  part  of  a  line  of  captives 
led  by  an  Assyrian  warrior.  They  are  beardless,  and  have  bald  heads,  to 
which  is  attached  a  single  feather.^     Two  of  them  have  white  cloths 

•  **  Out  of  that  land  went  forth  Asshur,  and  biiilded  Xineveli."    (Gen.  s.  11.) 

t  The  colors  on  the  Nineveh  bricks  have  not  >N-t  Uocu  lully  eiianiiiu'd,  but  ihey 
appear  to  be  precisely  the  same  as  those  on  the  Babylonian,  which  have  been  care- 
fully aaalywd  by  Sir  Henry  De  la  Becbe  and  Dr.  Percy.  The  yellow  is  an  ariUmo- 
nialc  of  lead,  from  wliifh  lin  has  also  been  extracted,  called  Naples  yellow,  supposed  , 
to  be  coniparativ«^y  a  modem  discovery,  though  also  used  by  the  Keyplians.  The 
while  IS  an  t'namel  or  glaze  of  oxide  of  tin,  an  invention  attributed  to  the  Arabs  of 
Northern  Africa  in  ilw  eighth  or  ninth  century.  Tlie  blue  glaze  is  a  copper,  contains 
no  cobalt,  but  some  lead  ;  a  curious  fact,  as  this  mineral  was  not  added  as  u  coloring 
matter,  but  to  fanilit;ite  the  fusion  of  the  glaze,  to  which  use,  it  was  btlievi-d,  lead  had 
only  been  turned  in  comparatively  modem  times.    The  red  is  a  sub-oxide  of  copper. 

t  For  facsimiles  of  these  colored  fragments,  see  3nd  series  of  Monuments  of  Nine- 
veh, Plates  53,  54,  55. 

<f  On  Egyptian  monuments  captives  are  portrayed  with  similar  feathers  attached ' 
to  their  heads  ;  but  they  appear  to  be  of  a  negro  race,  whilst  those  on  tlie  Nimroud 
'  bricks  hear  (lu  iraces  «f  negro  color  or  pliysii>gnoniy.    (Wilkinson's  Ancient  Egyp- 
tianB,vol.  i.  plate,  p  a85  ) 


CSAP.  VII  ] 


FAINTED  BRICKS. 


141 


round  their  loins,  the  others  long  white  shirts  open  in  front,  like  the  shirt 
of  the  tnodem  Arab.  The  figures  on  this  fragment  are  yellow  on  a  blue 
ground. 

2.  Similar  captives  followed  by  an  Assyrian  soldier.  The  armour  of  the 
warrior  is  that  of  the  later  period,  the  scales  and  greaves  are  painted  blue 
yellow,  and  the  tunic  blue.  The  ground  blue. 
Parts  of  two  horses,  of  a  man  holding  a  dagger,  and  of  an  Assyrian 
warrior.  The  horses  are  blue.  The  man  appears  to  have  been  wounded 
or  slain  in  battle,  and  is  imkL-d,  with  the  exception  of  a  twisted  blue  cloth 
round  the  loins.     Ground  an  olive  green. 

4.  Fragment,  with  Assyrian  warriors  on  horses.  Horses  yellow,  with 
blue  trappings.     Ground  olive  green. 

5.  Part  of  a  chariot  and  horse,  yellow  on  a  blue  ground. 

6.  A  man,  with  a  white  cloth  round  his  loins,  pierced  by  two  arrows. 
A  fish,  blue,  with  the  scales  marked  in  white  ;  and  part  of  a  horse's  head, 
yellow.     Ground  yellow. 

7.  Part  of  a  walled  tower,  or  fort,  with  square  battlements;  white,  on  a 
bine  ground. 

Fragment  of  a  very  spirited  design  representing  a  chariot  and  horses 
ing  over  a  naked  figure,  pierced  through  the  neck  by  an  arrow.  Under 
this  group  are  the  heads,  aud  parts  of  the  shields,  of  two  Assyrian  warriors. 
The  wounded  man  wears  a  lillet  round  his  head,  to  which  is  attached  a 
feather.  The  horses  are  blue,  and  their  truppiiiga  white  ;  the  wheels  of  the 
chariot,  yellow.  The  shields  of  the  warriors  are  blue,  edged  by  a  band  of 
alternate  squares  of  blue  and  yellow;  their  helmets  are  yellow,  but  the 
faces  appear  to  be  merely  outlined  in  white  on  the  olive  green  ground. 

9.  The  lower  part  of  an  Assyrian  warrior,  his  armour  and  greaves  blue, 
yellow,  and  white.  The  naked  hand  is  of  a  pale  brown  color.  Ground 
olive  green. 

10.  A  castle,  with  angular  battlements;  white,  with  yellow  bands  on  a 
blue  ground.     A  square  door  is  painted  blue. 

All  these  fragments  evidently  belong  to  the  same  period,  and  probably  to 
the  same  general  subject,  the  conquest  of  some  distant  nation  by  the  Assy- 
rians. It  is  evident,  from  the  costume  of  the  warriors,  and  the  form  of  the 
chariots,  that  they  are  of  the  later  epoch,  and  without  attempting  to  fix 
their  exact  date,  I  should  conjecture  that  they  hod  been  taken  from  the 
same  building  as  the  detached  bas-reliefs  in  the  south-west  palace,  and  that 
con8e(|uently  they  may  be  attributed  to  the  same  king.*  The  outlines  are 
spirited,  in  character  and  treatment  resembling  the  aculpturea 

A  fragment  of  painted  brick,  found  in  the  ruins  of  the  north-west  palace, 
is  undoubtedly  oi'  a  difleruul,  and  of  an  earlier,  period. t     The  outline  is  in 
black,  and  not  in  white.     The  (igureB,  of  which  the  heads  have  been  de- 
stroyed, wear  the  same  dress  as  the  tribute-bearers  bringing  the  monkey  and 
•  Thai  is,  as  will  be  hereafter  shown,  to  Pul,  or  Tiglath  I'lleser, 
t  No.  6.  Plate  53.     2ml  series  ofMoniuiicnta  of  Nineveli. 


142 


NINBVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  VII. 


ornaments,  on  the  exterior  walla  of  the  same  building.*    The  upper  robe  ii 
blue,  the  under  yellow,  and  the  fringes  white.     The  ground  is  yellow. 

But  the  most  perfect  and  interesting  specimen  of  painting  is  that  on  a 
brick,  12  inches  by  9,  discovered  in  the  centre  of  the  mound  of  Nimrond, 
and  now  in  the  British  Museum.  It  represents  the  king  followed  by  hit 
attendant  eunuch,  receiving  his  general  or  viz?r,  a  group  very  similar  to 
those  seen  in  the  sculptures  from  the  north-west  palace.  Above  his  head 
is  a  kind  of  fringed  pavilion,  and  part  of  an  inscription,  which  appears  to 
have  contained  his  name ;  beneath  him  is  the  Assyrian  guilloche  border.f 
The  outline  is  in  black  upon  a  pale  yellow  ground,  the  colors  having  prob- 
ably faded.  From  the  costume  of  the  king  I  believe  him  to  be  either  the 
builder  of  the  north-west  or  centre  palace.  This  is  an  unique  specimen  of 
an  entire  Assyrian  painting. 

During  the  greater  part  of  the  month  of  December  I  resided  at  Nimroud. 
One  morning,  I  was  suddenly  disturbed  by  the  reports  of  firearms,  mingled, 
with  the  shouts  of  men  and  the  shrieks  of  women.  Issuing  immediately- 
from  the  houBe,  I  found  the  open  space  behind  it  a  scene  of  wild  excitement 
and  confusion.  Horsemen,  galloping  in  all  directions  and  singing  their  war 
song,  were  driving  before  them  with  their  long  spears  the  cattle  and  sheep 
of  the  inhabitants  of  the  village.  The  men  were  firing  at  the  invaders; 
the  women,  armed  with  tent  poles  and  pitchforks,  and  filling  the  air  with 
their  shrill  screams,  were  trying  to  rescue  the  animals.  The  horsemen  of 
the  Arab  tribe  of  Tai  had  taken  advantage  of  a  thick  mist  hanging  over 
the  Jaif,  to  cross  the  Zab  early  in  the  morning,  and  to  fall  upon  us  before 
we  were  aware  of  their  approach.  No  time  was  to  bo  lost  to  prevent 
bloodshed,  and  all  ils  disagreeable  consequences.  A  horse  was  soon  ready, 
and  I  rode  towards  the  one  who  appeared  to  be  the  chief  of  the  attacking 
party.  Although  his  features  were  concealed  by  the  kcjfich  closely  drawn 
over  the  lower  part  of  his  lace,  after  the  Bedouin  fashion  in  war,  he  had 
been  recognised  as  Saleh,  the  brother  of  the  Howar,  the  Sheikh  of  the  Tai. 
He  saluted  me  a*  I  drew  near,  and  we  rodo  along  side  by  side,  whilst  his 
lollowers  were  driving  before  them  the  cattle  of  the  villagers.  Directing 
Hormuzd  to  keep  back  the  Shemutti,  I  asked  the  chief  to  restore  the  plun- 
dered property.  Fortunately,  hitherto  only  one  man  of  the  attacking  parly 
had  been  seriously  wounded.  The  expedition  was  chiefly  directed  against 
the  Jebours,  who  some  days  before  had  carried  off  a  large  number  of  the 
camels  of  the  Tai.  I  promised  to  do  my  best  to  recover  them.  At  length 
Saleh,  for  my  sake,  as  he  said,  consented  to  restore  all  that  had  been  takeo^J 
and  the  inhabitants  of  Nimroud  were  called  upon  to  claim  each  his  owdl 
property.  As  we  approached  the  niins,  for  the  discussion  had  been  carried 
on  as  we  rode  from  the  village,  my  Jebour  workmen,  who  had  by  this  time 
heard  of  the  afiray,  were  preparing  to  meet  the  enemy.  Some  had  ascended 
to  the  lop  of  the  high  conical  mound,  where  they  had  collected  stones  and 
•  First  series  of  Monuments  of  Nineveh,  Plate  40. 
t  Plate  fiS.    2nd  series  of  Monuments  of  Nineveh. 


Cau-.  yn.] 


bricks  ready  to  hurl  against  the  Tai  should  they  attempt  to  follow  them. 
Thus  probubly  assembled  on  thin  very  mound,  which  Xeitoiihon  calls  a.  pyr- 
amid, the  people  of  Larissa  when  the  ten  thousand  Greeks  approached  their 
ruined  city.*  Others  advanced  towards  ug,  stripped  to  their  waists,  brand- 
ishing their  swords  and  short  sjiears  in  defiance,  and  shouting  their  war-cry. 
It  was  with  dttiiculty  that,  with  the  aseistance  of  Hormuzd,  1  was  able  to 
check  this  display  of  valour,  and  prevent  them  from  renewing  the  engage- 
ment. The  men  and  women  of  the  village  were  still  following  the  retreat- 
ing horsemen,  clamoring  for  various  articles,  such  as  cloaks  and  handker- 
chiefs, not  yet  restored.  In  the  midst  of  the  crowd  of  wranglers,  a  hare  sud- 
denly sprang  from  her  form  and  darted  over  the  plain.  My  grcyhoundB, 
who  had  followed  me  from  the  house,  immediately  pursued  her.  This  was 
too  much  for  the  Arabs;  their  love  of  the  chase  overcame  even  their  pro- 
pensity for  upproprialiiig  other  people's  property ;  cattle,  cloaks,  swords,  and 
kejichs  were  abandoned  to  their  respective  claimants,  and  the  whole  band 
of  marauders  joined  wildly  in  the  pursuit.  Before  we  had  reached  the 
game  we  were  far  distant  from  Nimroud.  I  seized  the  opportunity  to  con- 
clude the  truce,  and  Saleh  with  his  fullowers  rode  slowly  back  towards 
the  ford  of  the  Zitb  to  seek  his  brother's  tents.  I  promised  to  visit  the 
Howar  in  two  or  three  days,  and  wo  parted  with  mutual  assurances  of 
friendship. 

Accordingly,  two  days  afterwards,  I  started  with  Hormuzd,  Schloss,  and 
a  party  of  AboulSaltuau  horsemen,  for  the  tents  of  the  Tai,  We  look  the 
road  by  an  ancient  Chaldican  moiiastery,  called  Kuther  Elias,  and  in  three 
hours  reached  the  Zab.  The  waters,  however,  were  so  much  swollen  by 
recent  rains,  that  the  fords  were  impassable,  and  having  vainly  attempted 
to  find  some  means  of  crossijig  the  river,  we  were  obliged  to  retrace  our 
steps. 

I  spent  Christmas-day  at  Nimroud,  and  on  the  28th  renewed  the  attempt 
to  visit  the  Howar.  Schloss  again  accompanied  me.  Mr.  Rolland  (a  trav- 
eller, who  had  recently  joined  us),  Hormuzd,  and  Awad  being  of  the  party. 
Leaving  the  Kuther  Elias  to  the  left,  we  passed  the  ruined  villape  of  Kini- 
Harcmi.  taking  the  direct  track  to  the  Zab.  The  river,  winding  through 
a  rich  alluvial  plain,  divides  itself  into  four  branches,  before  entering  a  range 
of  low  conglomerate  hills,  between  which  it  sweeps  in  its  narrowed  bed 
with  great  velocity.  The  four  chaiuiets  are  each  ford  able,  except  during 
floods,  and  the  Arabs  generally  cross  at  this  spot.  The  water  reached  above 
the  bellies  of  our  horses,  but  we  found  no  difficulty  in  stemming  the  cur- 
rent. The  islands  ami  the  banks  were  clothed  with  trees  and  brushwood. 
In  the  mud  and  sand  near  the  jungle  were  innumerable  deep,  sharp  prints 
of  the  hoof  of  the  wild  boar.  About  two  miles  above  the  ford,  on  the  op- 
posite side,  rose  a  large,  table-shaped  mound,  caUed  Abou-Sheetha.  We 
rode  to  it,  and  1  carefully  examined  its  surface  and  the  deep  rain-worn  ra- 
vines down  its  sides,  but  there  were  no  remains  of  building ;  and  although 

•  Ansb.  L  iii.  c.  4. 


144 


MIKEVBH  AND  BJlBTLON. 


[CaAF. 


fragmenlB  of  briok  and  pottery  were  scattered  over  it,  I  could  see  no  traces 
upon  tliem  of  cuneiforin  characters ;  yet  the  mound  was  preci^ly  of  that 
form  which  would  load  to  the  conjecture  that  it  covered  an  edifice  of  con- 
siderable extent.  Awad,  however,  subseq-uently  excavated  iu  it  without 
finding  any  ruins  of  the  Assyrian  j^eriod.  A  lew  urns  and  vases  were  the 
only  objeclA  discovered. 

The  tents  of  theHowar  were  still  higher  up  the  Zab.  Sending  a  horse- 
man to  apprise  the  chief  of  our  approach,  we  rode  leisurely  towards  them. 
Near  Abou-Sheetha  is  a  small  village  named  Kaaitli,  inhabited  by  sedentary 
Arabs,  who  pay  tribute  to  theSheikh.  A  few  tents  oftheTai  were  scattered 
around  it.  As  wo  passed  by,  the  women  came  out  with  their  children,  and 
pointing  to  mc  exclaimed,  "  Look,  look !  this  is  the  Beg  who  is  come  from 
the  other  end  of  the  world  to  dig  up  the  bones  of  our  grandfathers  and  grand- 
mothers !"  a  sacrilege  which  they  seemed  iuclined  to  resent.  Saleh,  at  the 
head  of  fifty  or  sixty  horsemen,  met  us  beyond  the  village,  and  conducted 
us  to  the  encampmeut  of  his  brother. 

The  tents  were  pitched  in  long,  parallel  lines.  That  of  the  chief  held 
the  foremost  place,  and  was  distinguished  by  its  size,  the  upright  spears 
tufted  with  ostrich  feathers  at  its  entrance,  and  the  many  high-bred  mares 
tethered  before  it.  As  we  approached,  a  tall,  commauditig  iigure,  of  erect 
and  noble  carriage,  issued  from  beneath  the  black  canvass,  and  advanced 
to  receive  me.  I  had  never  seen  amongst  the  Arabs  a  man  of  such  lofty 
stature.  His  features  were  regular  and  handsome,  but  his  beard,  having 
been  fresh  dyed  with  hcnnah  ulouc,*  was  of  a  bright  brick-red  hue,  ill  suited 
to  the  gravity  and  dignity  of  his  countenance.  His  head  was  encircled  by 
a  rich  cashmere  shawl,  one  end  falling  over  his  shoulder,  as  is  the  custom 
amongst  the  Arabs  of  the  Hedjaz.  He  wore  a  crimson  satin  robe  and  a 
black  cloak,  elegantly  embroidered  down  the  back,  and  on  one  of  the  wide 
sleeves  with  gold  thread  and  many-colored  silks.  This  was  Sheikh  Howar, 
and  behind  hiui  stood  a  crowd  of  followers  and  adherents,  many  of  whom 
had  the  features  and  stature  which  marked  the  family  of  the  chief. 

As  I  dismounted,  the  Sheikh  advanced  to  embrace  me,  and  when  his 
arms  were  round  my  neck  my  head  scarcely  reached  to  his  shoulder.  Ho 
led  me  into  that  part  of  the  tent  which  is  set  aside  for  guests.  It  had  bcea 
prepared  for  my  reception,  and  was  not  ill  furnished  with  cushions  of  silk 
and  soft  Kurdish  carpels.  The  tent  itself  was  more  capacious  than  those 
usually  found  amongst  Arabs.  The  black  goat-hair  canvass  alone  was  the 
load  of  three  camels, t  and  was  sup^wrtcd  by  six  poles  down  the  centre, 
with  the  same  number  on  either  side.  Around  a  bright  fire  was  an  array 
of  highly  burnished  metal  coITee-pnts,  the  largest  containing  several  quarts, 

•  In  order  to  die  the  hair  black,  a  preparation  of  indigo  should  be  used  after  the 
tiennah. 

t  The  canvass  of  siicli  tents  is  divided  into  strips,  wtiich,  packed  separately  on 
the  camels  during  a  march,  are  easily  united  again  by  coarse  ihrcadj  or  by  small 
woodea  pins. 


^ 


Chap.  YII.]  "■  "f*™  of  tai.  i^ 

•ad  the  malleft  aoaroely  big  enough  to  fill  the  diminntiTe  oup  reserved 
fiir  the  solitary  stranger.  Sereral  noble  falcons,  in  their  gay  hoods  and 
tmwei,  were  perched  here  and  there  on  their  stands.  The  Howar  seated 
himself  by  my  side,  and  the  head  men  of  his  tribe,  who  had  assembled  on 
the  oooasion,  formed  a  wide  circle  in  front  of  us  ;  Saleh,  his  brother,  stand- 
ing without,  and  receiving  the  commands  of  the  Sheikh. 

Gofiee  wa^,  of  course,  the  first  business.  It  was  highly  spiced,  as  drank 
by  the  Bedouins.  The  Howar,  after  some  general  conversation,  spoke  of 
the  politics  of  the  Tai,  and  their  difierenoes  with  the  Turkish  government. 
The  same  ruinous  system  which  has  turned  some  of  the  richest  districts 
«f  Asia  into  a  desert,  and  has  driven  every  Arab  clan  into  open  rebellioii 
■gainst  the  Sultan,  had  been  pursued  towards  himself  and  his  tribe.  Be 
was  its  acknowledged  hereditary  chief,  and  enjoyed  all  the  influence  sueh 
a  positioii  can  confer.  For  years  he  had  collected  and  paid  the  appointed 
tribute  to  the  Turkish  authorities.  Fresh  claims  had,  however,  been  pat 
forward  :  the  governors  of  Arbil,  in  whose  district  the  Tai  pastured  their 
flocks,  were  to  be  bribed ;  the  Pashas  of  Baghdad  required  presents,  and  tlm 
tribute  itself  was  gradually  increased.  At  length  the  Howar  could  no  loa- 
.ger  satisfy  the  growing  demands  upon  him.  One  of  the  same  family  was 
•ooB  found  who  promised  to  be  more  yielding  to  the  insatiable  avarice  of 
the  Osmanlis,  and,  in  ccHuideration  of  a  handsome  bribe,  Faras,  his  cousin, 
WM  named  Sheikh  of  the  tribe.  The  new  chief  had  his  own  fbllowen, 
-tfie  support  of  the  government  gave  him  a  certain  apthority,  and  the  Tai 
were  now  divided  into  two  parties.  The  Pasha  of  Baghdad  and  the  gov- 
enunr  of  Arbil  profited  by  their  dissensions,  received  bribes  from  both,  and 
fiom  otfaen  who  aimed  at  the  sheikhship,  and  the  country  had  rapidly  been 
vadoced  to  a  state  of  anarchy.  The  Arabs,  having  no  one  responsible  chief, 
took,  of  course,  to  plundering.  The  villages  on  the  Mosul  side  of  the  Zab, 
as  well  as  in  the  populous  district  of  Arbil,  were  laid  waste.  The  Kurds, 
who  came  down  into  the  plains  during  the  winter,  were  encouraged  to  fol- 
low the  example  of  the  Tai,  and,  from  the  rapaciousness  and  misconduct 
of  one  or  two  officers  of  the  Turkish  government,  evils  had  ensued  whose 
consequences  will  be  felt  for  years,  and  which  will  end  in  adding  another 
rich  district  to  the  desert.  Such  is  the  history  of  almost  every  tribe  in 
Turkey,  and  such  the  causes  of  the  desolaticm  that  has  spread  over  her 
finest  provinces. 

The  Tai,  now  reduced  to  two  comparatively  small  branches,  one  under 
the  Howar,  the  other  residing  in  the  desert  of  Nisibin,  watered  by  the  east- 
ern branch  of  the  Khabour  of  Kurdistan,  is  a  remnant  of  one  of  the  most 
ancient  and  renowned  tribes  of  Arabia.  The  Howar  himself  traces  his 
descent  from  Hatem,  a  Sheikh  of  the  tribe  who  lived  in  the  seventh  cen- 
tary,  and  who,  as  the  impersonation  of  all  the  virtues  of  Bedouin  life,  is  the 
ttnme  to  this  day  of  the  Arab  muse.  His  hospitality,  his  generosity,  his 
courage,  and  his  skill  as  a  horseman  were  alike  unequalled,  and  there  is  no 
name  more  honored  amongst  the  wild  inhabitants  of  the  desert  than  that 

K 


146 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  YIL 


of  Hatcm  Tal.    The  Howar  is  proud  of  hia  heroic  ancestor,  and  the  Be- 
douins acknowledge  and  respect  his  descent.* 

We  diued  with  the  >Shcikh  and  sat  until  the  night  was  far  spent,  listen- 
ing to  tales  of  Arab  life,  and  to  tlie  traditions  of  his  tribe. 

On  the  following  morning  the  tents  were  struck  at  sunrise,  and  the  chief 
moved  with  his  followers  to  new  pastures.  The  crowd  of  camels,  flocks, 
cattle,  laden  beasts  of  burden,  horsemen,  footmen,  women  and  children  dark- 
ened the  plain  for  some  miles.  We  passed  through  the  midst  of  them  with 
the  Sheikh,  and  leaving  him  to  fix  the  spot  of  his  encampment,  we  turned 
from  the  river  and  rodo  inland  towards  the  tents  of  his  rival,  Faras.  Saleh, 
with  a  few  horsemen,  accompanied  me,  but  Schloss  declared  that  it  was 
against  all  the  rules  of  Arab  etiquette  for  a  stranger,  like  myself,  to  take 
undue  advantage  of  the  rights  of  hospitality  by  introducing  an  enemy  un- 
der my  protection  into  an  encampment.  There  was  a.  feud  between  the 
two  chiefs,  blood  had  actually  been  spilt,  and  if  Saleh  entered  the  dwell- 
ings of  his  rivals,  disagreeable  consequences  might  ensue,  although  my  pres- 
ence and  the  fact  of  his  having  eaten  bread  with  mo  would  save  him  from 
actual  danger.  However,  one  of  my  objects  was  to  bring  about  a  reconcil- 
iatiou  between  the  two  chiefs,  and  as  Salch  had  consented  to  run  the  risk 
of  accompanying  me,  I  persevered  in  my  determination.  Schloss  was  not 
to  be  persuaded,  he  hung  behind,  sulked,  and  finally  turning  the  head  of 
his  mare,  rode  back  with  his  companions  to  the  river.  I  took  no  notice  of 
hia  departure,  anticipating  his  speedy  return.  He  recovered  from  his  ill 
humor,  and  joined  us  again  late  in  the  evening. 

The  plain,  bounded  by  the  Tigris,  the  great  and  lesser  Zab,  and  the  Kurd- 
ish hiUs,  is  renowned  for  its  fertifity.  It  is  the  granary  of  Baghdad,  and 
it  is  a  common  saying  amongst  the  Arabs,  "  that  if  there  were  a  famine 
over  the  rest  of  the  earth,  Shomamok  (for  so  the  principal  part  of  tho  plain 
is  called)  would  still  have  its  harvest."  This  district  belongs  chiefly  to 
the  Tai  Arabs,  who  wander  from  pasture  to  pasture,  and  leave  the  cultivar 
tion  of  the  soil  to  small  sedentary  tribes  of  Arabs,  Turcomans,  and  Kurds, 
who  dwell  in  villages,  and  pay  an  annual  tribute  in  money  or  in  kind. 

As  we  rode  along  we  passed  many  peasants  industriously  driving  the 
plough  through  the  rich  soil.  Large  Hocks  of  gazelles  grazed  in  the  cul- 
tivated patches,  scarcely  fearing  the  husbandman,  though  speedily  bound- 
ing away  over  the  plain  as  horsemen  approached.  Artificial  mounds  rose 
on  all  sides  of  us,  and  near  one  of  the  largest,  called  Abou-Jerdch,  we  found 
the  black  tents  of  Sheikh  Faras.     The  rain  began  to  fall  in  torrents  before 


•  The  reader  may  remerabor  a  -weU-known  anecdote  of  this  celebrated  Sheikh, 
still  current  in  the  desert.  He  was  the  owner  of  a  matchless  mare  whose  fame  had 
even  reached  the  Greek  Emperor.     AntbasBadoTS  were  sent  from  Constantinople  to 

k  the  animal  of  the  chief,  and  to  offer  any  amount  of  gold  in  return.  W'lien  they 
lannounced,  after  dining,  the  object  of  their  cmbasay,  it  was  found,  that  the  tribe  suf- 
fering from  a  grievous  famine,  and  having  nothing  to  offer  to  their  guests,  the  gen- 
erous Hatcm  had  slain  his  own  priceless  mare  to  entertain  them. 


Chip.  Vn.] 


IHraKH  FARAS. 


M7 


we  reached  the  encampment.  The  chief  had  ridden  out  to  a  neighbouring 
village  to  make  arrongementg  for  our  better  protection  against  the  weather. 
He  soon  returned  urging  his  mare  to  the  top  of  her  speed.  lu  person  he 
wag  a  strange  contrast  to  the  elder  member  of  his  family.  He  was  short, 
squat,  and  fat,  and  his  coarse  features  were  buried  in  a  frame  of  hair  dyed 
bright  red.  He  was,  however,  profuse  in  aseuranccs  of  friendship,  talked 
incoesantly,  agreed  to  all  I  proposed  with  regard  to  a  reconciliation  with 
the  other  branch  of  the  tribe,  and  received  Saleh  with  every  outward  sign 
of  cordiality.  His  son  had  more  of  the  dignity  of  his  race,  but  the  exprw> 
sion  of  his  countenance  was  forbidding  and  sinister.  The  two  young  men, 
as  they  sat,  cast  looks  of  defiance  at  each  other,  and  I  had  some  difficulty 
in  restraining  Saleh  from  breaking  out  in  invectives,  which  probably  would 
have  ended  in  an  appeal  to  the  sword. 

A»  the  rain  increased  in  violence,  and  the  tent  offered  but  an  imperfect 
shelter,  we  moved  to  the  village,  where  a  house  had  been  prepared  for  us 
by  its  honest,  kind-hearted  Turcoman  chief,  Wali  Bey.  With  unaffected 
hospitality  he  insisted  that  we  should  become  his  guests,  and  had  already 
slain  the  sheep  for  our  entertainment.  I  have  met  few  men  who  exceed, 
in  honesty  and  fidelity,  the  descendants  of  the  pure  Turcoman  race,  scat- 
tered over  Asia  Minor  and  the  districts  watered  by  the  Tigris. 

On  the  following  morning,  Wali  Bey  having  first  provided  an  ample 
breakfast,  in  which  all  the  luxuries  of  the  village  were  set  before  us,  we 
again  visited  the  tents  of  the  Howar.  After  obtaiuing  his  protection  for 
Awad,  who  was  to  return  in  a  few  days  with  a  party  of  workmen,  to  ex- 
plore the  mounds  of  Shomamok,  and  settling  the  tenns  of  reconciliation  be- 
tween himself  and  Faras,  we  followed  the  baggage,  which  had  been  sent 
before  us  to  the  ford.  On  reaching  the  Zab,  we  found  it  rising  rapidly 
from  the  rains  of  the  previous  day.  Our  servants  had  already  crossed,  but 
the  river  was  now  impassable.  We  sought  a  ford  higher  up,  and  above 
the  junction  of  the  Ghazir.  Having  struggicJ  in  vaiu  against  the  swollen 
stream,  we  were  compelled  to  give  up  the  attempt.  Nothing  remained 
but  to  seek  the  ferry  on  the  high  road,  between  Arbil  and  Mosul.  We  did 
not  reach  the  small  village,  where  a  raft  is  kept  for  the  use  of  travellers 
and  caravans,  until  nearly  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  it  was  sunset 
before  we  had  crossed  the  river. 

We  hurried  along  the  direct  track  to  Nimroud,  hoping  to  cross  the  Gha- 
zir before  night-fall.  But  fresh  difiicullies  awaited  us.  That  small  river, 
collecting  the  torrents  of  the  Missouri  hills,  had  overflown  its  bed,  and  its 
waters  were  rushing  tumultuously  onwards,  with  a  breadth  of  stream  al- 
most equalling  the  Tigris.  We  rode  iilong  its  banks,  hoping  to  find  an  en- 
campment where  we  could  pass  the  night.  At  length,  in  the  twilight,  we 
spied  some  Arabs,  who  immediately  took  refuge  behind  the  walls  of  a  ruined 
village,  and  believing  us  to  be  marauders  from  the  desert,  prepared  to  de- 
fend themselves  and  their  cattle.  Directing  the  rest  of  the  parly  to  stop, 
I  rode  forward  with  the  Bairakdar,  and  was  in  time  to  prevent  a  discharge 


148 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON 


(ClUP.  VII. 


of  fire-aTiiw  pointed  ugaioat  us.  The  Arabs  wen?  of  the  tribe  of  Hadded- 
eca,  who  having  crossed  the  Ghazir,  with  their  buiraloes.  had  been  unable 
to  regain  their  tents  on  the  opposite  side  by  the  sudden  swelling  of  the 
stream 

The  nearest  inhabited  village  was  Tel  Aswad,  or  Kara  Tuppch,  still  far 
distant.  As  we  rode  towards  it  in  the  dusk,  one  or  two  wolves  lazily  stole 
from  the  brushwood,  and  jackals  and  other  beasts  of  prey  occasionally  crosaed 
our  path.  We  found  the  Kiuyah  seated  witl*  some  travellers  round  a  biai- 
ing  (ire.  The  miserable  hut  was  soon  cleared  of  its  occupants,  and  we 
prepared  to  pass  the  night  as  we  best  could. 

Towavls  dawn  the  Kiayah  brought  us  word  that  the  Ghazir  had  sub- 
sided sufficiently  to  allow  us  to  ford.  We  started  under  his  guidance,  and 
found  that  the  stream,  although  divided  into  three  branches,  reached  in 
tome  places  almost  to  the  backs  of  the  horses.  Safe  over,  we  struck  across 
the  country  toM'ards  Nimroud,  and  reached  the  ruins  as  a  thick  monuag 
mist  was  gradually  withdrawn  from  the  lofty  mound. 

Dunng  our  absence,  &  new  chamber  had  been  opened  in  the  north-west 
palace,  to  the  south  of  the  great  centre  hall.  The  walls  were  of  plain, 
■un-dried  brick,  and  there  were  no  remains  of  sculptured  slabs,  but  in  the 
earth  and  nibbish  which  had  fiMod  it.  were  discovered  some  of  the  most  in- 
teresting relics  obtained  Iroii]  the  ruins  of  Assyria.  A  description  of  ila  con- 
tents alone  will  occupy  a  chapter. 


kS^- 


AfttD    ItUl 


•••f-SsS:. 


;^ 


'•f-^ 


^  y 


BwaT^lad  Chamber  ia  wbleb  lbs  Bronu*  were  diKOTered  (Mmroud). 


CHAPTER  Vni. 


COWTBUTSOr  NEWLY  OmCOVEREnCIUMBKB. — il  WKLL. HBae  rorPER  C«I.DRON«. — KIX!. 

•  INOB,  AND    OTHER  OBJECTS  IN    METAL. THIPOnS. CMLDKOMS   AND    LAEOK  VCBRKLr.— 

BRONZE  BOWLS,  CUPS,  AND  DISIIES. — DBSCRIPnON  Of  THE  KHBOflSINOB  DPOH  THEM. — 
ARMS  AND  ARMOUR. — SHIELDS. — IKON  INSTRL'KK.'tTS. — tVORV  REMAINS. — nnoNZE  Cl'BtS 
INLAIP  WITH  GOLD. — OLASS  BOWLS LENS TBK  ROVAL  THRONE. 

■  The  newly  discovered  chamber  was  part  of  the  north-west  pnlaee,  and 

adjoined  a  room  previously  explored.*  lis  only  entrance  was  to  the  wcrt, 
and  almost  "n  the  edge  of  t}ic  mound.  It  must,  consequently,  have  opened 
upon  a  gallery  or  terrace  running  along  the  river  front  of  the  building. 
The  walls  were  of  sun-dried  brick,  panelled  round  the  bottom  with  large 
burnt  bricks,  about  three  feel  high,  placed  one  against  the  other.  They 
were  coated  with  bitumen,  and,  like  those  forming  the  pavement,  were  m- 
•eribed  with  the  name  and  iiswal  titles  of  the  royal  founder  of  the  building 
In  one  corner,  and  partly  in  a  kind  of  recess,  was  a  well,  the  mouth  of 
which  was  formed  by  brickwork  about  three  feel  high.  Its  sides  were  also 
bricked  down  to  the  conglomerate  rock,  and  holes  had  been  left  at  regular 
intervals  for  descent.  When  first  discovered  it  was  choked  with  earth. 
The  workmen  emptied  it  until  they  came,  at  the  depth  of  nearly  sixty  feet, 

Ilo  brackish  water.t 
The  first  objects  found  in  this  chamber  were  two  plain  copper  vessels  or 
•  It  was  parallel  i^i,  anit  lu  ihc  ."vouHi  of,  the  chanil>cr  marked  A  A,  in  the  plan  of 
the  nortli-wisi  jialace     (jNineveh  and  its  KeniainB,  vol  i.  Plan  III) 
t  Few  wells  in  the  plains  tKirdenag  on  the  Tigris  yield  sweet  water. 
M'         J k ^=1^ 


Btnall  copper  ornaments, 
some  suspended  to  wire* 
With  them  were  a  quanti- 
ty of  tapering  bronze  rods, 
bent  into  a  hook,  and  end- 
ing in  a  kind  of  lip.  Be- 
neath were  several  bronze 
cups  and  dishes,  which  I 
succeeded  in  removing 
entire.  Scattered  in  the 
earth  amongst  these  ob- 
jects were  several  hand- 
red  studs  and  buttons  in 
mother  of  pearl  and  ivory, 
with  many  small  losettefl 
in  metal. 

All  the  objects  contain* 
ed  in  these  caldrons,  with 
the  exception  of  the  cups 
and  dishes,  were  probably 
ornaments  of  horse  and 
chariot  fumilure  The  ac- 
companying woodcut  from 
u  tk  Kutiyuniik,  ■howing  probable     ,  i-   ^    ^  tr  .< 

»»j  Mvtiii  miwrtiM.  a  bas-reliet  at  Kouyunjik, 

I  ri^liiy  Ix'lls.    The  largest  are  3t  inches  high,  and 

1 1 1  inch  high,  and  IJ  inch  in  diameter.    With  the 

k  ^  Britiata  Mueeum. 


152 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  VUI 


FpH  ofTrtpod*  in  Bronus  iin<I  Iron. 


will  show  the  way  in  which  the  studs  of  ivory  aiid  mother  of  pearl,  (uid  the 
rosettes  or  stats  ol  metal,  were  probably  used.     The  horses  of  the  AssyriajQ 

cavalry,  as  well  as  those  harnessed 
^mHjiu)  "^  J  ^""''^"'"l^'j  ^°  chariots,  are  continually  repre- 

sented in  the  sculptures  with  bells 
round  their  necks,  and  in  the  Bible 
we  find  allusion  to  this  custom  ♦ 
The  use  of  the  nictal  hooka  caooot 
he  so  satisfactorily  traced ;  tliey 
probably  belonged  to  some  part  of 
the  chariot,  or  the  horee  trappings. 
Beneath  the  caldrons  were  heap- 
ed lions'  and  bulls'  feet  of  bronze ; 
and  the  remains  of  iron  rings  and 
bars,  probably  parts  of  tripods,  or 
stands  for  supporting  vessels  and 
bowls  ;t  which,  as  the  iron  had 
rusted  away,  had  fallen  to  pieces,  leaving  such  parts  entire  as  were  in  the 
more  durable  metal. 

Two  other  caldrons,  Ibund  further  within  the  chamber,  contained,  be- 
sides several  plates  and  dishes,  four  crown  shaped  bronze  ornaments,  per- 
haps belonging  to  a  throne  or  couch  ;$  two  long  ornamented  bands  of  cop- 
per, rounded  at  both  ends,  apparently  belts,  such  as  were  worn  by  warriors 
in  armour  ;|  a  grotesque  head  in  bronze,  probably  the  top  of  a  mace;  a 
metal  wine-strainer  of  elegant  shape;  various  metal  vessels  of  peculiar 
form,  and  a  bronze  ornament,  probably  the  handle  of  a  dish  or  vase. 

Eight  more  caldrons  and  jars  were  found  in  other  parts  of  the  chamber 
One  contained  ashes  and  bones,  the  rest  were  empty. II  Some  of  the 
larger  vessels  were  crushed  almost  flat,  probably  by  the  falling  in  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  building. 

With  the  caldrons  were  discovered  two  circular  flat  vessels,  nearly  six 
feet  in  diameter,  and  about  two  feet  deep,  which  I  can  only  compare  with 
the  brazen  sea  that  stood  in  the  temple  of  8olomon.1f 


•  Zcch.  xiv.  20. 

t  Tnpcitl-stands,  consisting  of  a  circular  ring  raised  upon  feet,  to  hold  jare  ud 
vases,  are  frequently  reprpspnled  in  the  bas-reliefs.  (Sec  particulaTly  Dotta's  large 
wurk,  plaie  HI.)  1'tic  ring  was  of  iron,  tMninil  in  some  pinces  wiih  copper,  and  the 
feet  partly  of  iron  ami  partly  ofhronze  ingeniously  cast  over  it. 

}  If,  liowfvtT,  tliey  were  part  nf  a  tliroiie,  it  is  difficult  to  account  for  their  being 
found  detached  in  the  caldron  Tliey  measured  6  inches  in  diameter,  and  3  inches  in 
depth 

I)  Resembling  those  of  the  eunuch  warriors  in  Plate  38.  of  the  1st  aeries  of  the 
Monuments  of  Nineveh. 

II  One  of  the  jars  was  4  feel  1 1  inches  high.  Two  of  the  caldrons  with  handles  on 
each  side  were  2  feet  5  inclies  in  diameter,  and  1  foot  6  inches  deep 

5  2  Chron.  iv.  8.    The  dimensions,  however,  of  this  vessel  were  far  greater.     It  is 


NINKVSH  AND  BABTLON.  [OhaP.  VIII 


Caldroos  are  frequontty  rc>preBenled  as  part  of  the  spoil  and  tribute,  in 
the  sculptures  of  Nirnroud  oiid  Kouyunjik.*  They  were  so  much  valued 
by  the  ancieuts  thai,  it  appears  from  the  Homeric  poems,  they  were  given 
as  prizes  at  public  games,  and  were  considered  arnotigst  the  most  precioos 
objects  that  coidd  be  carried  away  from  a  captured  city.  They  were  fre- 
quently embossed  with  flowers  aud  other  ornaments.  Homer  declares  ono ' 
10  adorned  to  be  worth  au  oxt 

Behind  the  caldrons  was  a  heap  of  curious  and  iuteresting  objects.  In 
one  place  were  piled  without  order,  one  above  tlie  other,  bronze  cups,  bowls, 
and  dishes  of  various  sizes  and  shapes.  The  upper  vessels  having  been 
most  exposed  to  damp,  the  metal  had  been  eaten  away  by  rust,  and  was 
crumbling  into  fragments,  or  into  a  green  powder.  As  they  were  cleared 
away,  more  perfect  specimens  were  taken  out,  until,  near  the  pavement  of 
the  chamber,  some  were  found  almost  entire.  Many  of  the  bowls  and 
plates  fitted  so  closely,  one  within  the  other,  that  they  have  only  been  de- 
tached in  England.  It  required  the  greatest  care  and  patience  to  separate 
them  from  the  tenacious  soil  in  which  they  were  embedded. 

Although  a  green  crj'stalline  deposit,  arising  from  the  decomposition  of 
the  metal,  encrusted  all  the  vessels,  I  could  distinguish  upon  many  of  them 
traces  of  embossed  aud  engraved  ornaments.  Since  they  have  been  in 
England  tbey  have  been  carefully  and  skilfully  cleaned  by  Mr.  Doubleday, 
of  the  British  Museum,!  and  the  very  beautiful  and  elaborate  designs  upon 
them  brought  to  light.  1 

The  bronze  objects  thus  discovered  may  be  classed  under  four  heads — 
dishes  with  handles,  plates,  deep  bowls,  aud  cups.  Some  arc  plain,  othen 
have  a  simple  rosette,  scarab,  or  star  in  the  centre,  and  many  are  most 
elaborately  ornamented  with  the  figures  of  men  and  animals,  and  with  el- 
egant fancy  designs,  either  embossed  or  incised.     Although  the  style,  like 

amgular  that  in  eumc  of  tlie  bas-reltefa  large  metal  caldrons  supported  on  brazen  oxen 
are  represfntcd. 

•  Sec  particularly  Monuments  orNineveh,  1st  series,  Plate  24.,  and  2d  series,  Plate 
3fi.,  and  on  the  hlack  obelisk.  Tlioy  were  larried  away  by  the  Babylonians  from  Je- 
rusak-ni.     Jervni.  iii.  18. 

t  Tliey  'were  dedjealcd  to  the  gods  in  temples.  CoI<su8  dedicated  a  large  vesad 
of  brass,  adortud  icith  grijin»,  to  Here      HeroiJ,  iv.  158. 

t  I  soiae  this  opportunity  orpxprcssing  my  thanlw  to  that  (^cntlcnifln,  for  the  kind  aa- 
sistanee  and  valuable  tnfnrniatioti  I  have  received  from  him  during  my  connection  with 
the  British  Museum,  and  of  bj'aring  testimony  lo  the  judgment  and  skill  he  has  di*. 
played  aa  well  in  the  diseiiiharliation  and  removal  of  the  great  sculptures,  as  in  the 
cleaning  and  repairing  of  the  most  minute  and  delicate  otijens  ewifided  to  his  care. 

<)  Engravirg.s  of  the  most  interesting  of  these  ve.s.se|fl  will  be  found  in  the  2d  series 
of  my  Monuments  of  Nineveh.  They  have  heeii  chiefly  executed  from  the  admirable 
drawings  of  Mr.  Preiiliee,  lu  whiuii  I  am  indehieil  fur  Hie  very  accurate  rejireaenla- 
lions  of  the  ivories,  published  in  my  former  work.  The  Trustees  of  the  British  Mu- 
seum have  judiciously  cmpliiyed  lliat  i;entlein<in  to  make  exact  copies  of  these  inter- 
esting relics,  which,  it  is  feared,  will  ere  long  be  utterly  destroyed  by  a  process  of 
natural  decomposition  in  the  metal,  that  no  ing^xnuity  can  completely  arrest. 


csAP.  vin.] 


BRONZE  DISHCS. 


US 


that  of  the  ivories  from  the  same  palace,  and  now  in  the  British  Miueum, 
is  frequently  Egyptian  in  character,  yet  the  execution  and  treatment,  as 
well  as  the  Eubjects,  are  peculiarly  Assyrian.  The  inside,  and  not  the  out> 
side,  of  these  vessels  is  ornamented.  The  embossod  figures  have  been 
raised  in  the  metal  by  a  blunt  inistiuroent,  three  or  four  strokes  of  which 
in  many  instances  very  ingeniously  produce  the  image  of  an  animal.* 
Even  those  ornaments  which  are  not  embossed  but  incised,  appear  to  have 
been  formed  by  a  similar  process,  except  that  the  punch  was  applied  on 
the  inside.     The  tool  of  the  graver  has  been  sparingly  used. 

The  most  interesting  dishes  in  the  collection  brought  to  England  are  : — 
No.  1,,  with  moving  circular  handle  (the  handle  wanting),  secured  by 

three  bosses ;  diameter  1 0}  inch- 
es, depth  2^  inches  ;  divided  in- 
to  two  friezes  surrounding  a  oir- 
cular  medallion  containing  a 
inalo  deity  trith  hulVs  airs  (?) 
and  hair  in  ample  curls, f  wear- 
ing bracelets  and  a  necklace  of 
an  Egyptian  character,  and  a 
short  tunic ;  the  arms  crossed, 
and  the  hands  held  by  two  E/^yp- 
tiaiis  (?),  who  place  their  other 
hands  on  the  head  of  the  centre 
figure.  The  inner  frieze  con- 
tains horsemen  draped  as  Egyp- 
■         \\\n^  /']/    ^i""*' &^ll<'P'Kg  round  in  pairs ; 

I          \0r^  Mj      ^^^  outer  figures  also  wearing 

I             \ll^  /y^/        the  Egyptian "  JiA<?n<t "  or  tunic, 

H^^         >W^Sw  ^(^^^  hunting  lions  on  horseback,  on 

^^^B  ^'iHi]M>»~ -<^^^!^  foot,  and  in  chariots.     The  hair 

^^^V  ^ ZT      s.  of  these  figures  is  dressed  after 

^^^^ft  BnnM  OUb,  ftvro  NimnHid.  ,  .   ,  -^    ,    . 

^^^V  a  lashion,  which  prevailed  m 

Egypt  from  the  ninth  to  the  eighth  century  b.c.  Each  frieze  is  separated 
by  a  band  of  giiillochc  ornament. :t 

No.  2.,  diameter  lOJ  inches,  having  a  low  rim,  partly  destroyed ;  orna- 
mented with  an  embossed  rosette  of  elegant  shape,  surrounded  by  three 
friezes  of  animals  in  high  relief,  divided  by  a  guillocho  band.  The  outer 
frieze  contains  twelve  walking  bulls,  designed  with  considerable  spirit ;  be- 
tween each  is  a  dwarf  shrub  or  tree.  The  second  frieze  has  a  bull,  a  winged 
griffin,  an  ibex,  and  a  gazelle,  walking  one  behind  the  other,  and  the  same 

•  The  cmlMwsing  appears  to  have  b«!Ti  produred  by  a  procrss  still  praetiscil  hy  sH- 
verainiths.  Tlic  meial  was  laid  upon  a  bed  of  mixed  clay  and  bitumen,  and  then 
pnnched  from  the  mitside. 

t  The  Egyptian  goddess  Athor  is  represented  with  similar  ears  and  hair. 

J  Monumenta  of  Nineveh,  2nd  Series.    Plate  65. 


156 


NTNEVBR  AfiTD  BABVLON. 


(Chap.  VUl 


Drtinu  l)l«b,from  Nlmrood. 


animals  wized  by  leopards  or  lions,  in  all  fourteen  figures.     The  inner 

frieze  contain  twelve  gazelles.. 
The  handle  is  formed  by  «' 
plain  movable  ring.*  The  or- 
[laments  on  this  dish,  as  well 
as  the  dosipftt,  are  of  an  Assyr- 
ian character.  The  bull,  the 
wild-goal,  and  the  gritiin  are 
the  animals,  evidently  of  a  sa- 
cred character,  which  occur  so 
frequently  in  the  sculptures  of 
Nimroiid.  The  lion,  or  leop- 
ard, devouring  the  bull  and  ga- 
zelle, is  a  well-known  symbol 
of  Assyrian  origin,  afterwards  adopted  by  other  Eastern  nations,  and  may- 
typify,  according  to  the  fancy  of  the  reader,  cither  the  eubjeclion  of  a  prim- 
itive race  by  the  Assyrian  tribes,  or  an  astronomical  phenomenon. 

No.  3.,  diameter  10  J  inches,  and  1 J  inch  deep,  with  a  raiaed  star  in  the 
centre  ;  the  handle  formed  by  two  rings,  working  in  sockets  faflfeaned  to  & 
rim,  mnuing  about  one  third  round  the  margin,  and  secured  by  fiv«  naili 
or  bosses  ;  four  bands  of  embossed  ornaments  in.  low  relief  round  the  omtre, 
the  outer  band  consisting  of  alternate  standing  bulls  and  crouching  lionSi  j 
Assyrian  in  character  and  treatment ;  the  others,  of  an  elegant  pattern, 
slightly  varied  firom  the  usual  Assyrian  border  by  tho  introduction  of  a  ikn- 
like  flower  in  the  place  of  the  tulip. t 

Other  dishes  were  found  still  better  preserved  than  those  just  desctited, 
but  perfectly  plain,  or  having  only  a  star,  more  or  less  elaborate,  embosMAI 
or  engraved  in  the  centre.      Many  fragments  were  also  discovered  vritll 
elegant  handles,  some  formed  by  the  figures  of  rams  and  bulls. 
Of  tho  plates  the  most  remarkable  are  : — 

No.  1.,  shallow,  and  8{  inches  in  diameter,  the  centre  slightly  raised  and 
incised  with  a  star  and  live  bauds  of  tulip-shaped  ornaments ;  the  rest  oc- 
cupied by  four  groups,  each  consisting  of  two  winged  hawk-headed  sphinxes, 
wearing  the  "  pshent,"  or  crown  of  the  upper  and  lower  country  of  Egypt; 
one  paw  raised,  and  resting  upon  the  head  of  a  man  kneeling  on  one  knee, 
and  lifting  his  hands  in  the  act  of  adoration.  Between  the  sphinxes,  on 
column  in  the  form  of  a  papyrus-sceptre,  is  the  bust  of  a  figure  wearing  on' 
his  head  the  sim's  disc,  with  the  urtEi  serpents,  a  collur  round  the  neck,  and 
four  feathers ;  above  are  two  winged  globes  %vilh  the  asps,  and  a  row  of 


•  Monuraents  of  Nineveh,  2n(l  scries      Plate  CO. 

t  H  A  Plate  67.  I  hare  i-alleil  this  flower,  the;  tolas  of  the  Egyptian  sculpture*. 
atalip,  as  it  somewhat  resemhlcs  a  bright  scarlet  iiiJip  which  abounds  in  early  spring 
on  the  .\saynan  plains,  ami  may  have  sllggesl^^d  this  i'lt'g,int  drnampnt.  It  has  no 
resemblance  whatever  lo  the  honeysuckle,  by  which  name  it  is  commonly  known, 
when  used  in  Greek  architecture. 


Handles  o(  Bronai  Dubcii,  Croin  Nmiraud 

of  the  Asayrian  tulip  ornament,  and  is  separated  from  that  adjoining  by  a 
scatab  ■with  out-spread  wings,  raising  the  globe  with  its  fore  feet,  and  reat- 
ing  with  its  hind  on  a  papyrus-sceptre  pillar.*  This  plate  is  in  good  pret- 
ervation,  having  been  found  at  the  very  bottom  of  a  heap  of  similar  relics. 
Part  of  the  bronze  was  still  bright,  and  of  a  golden  color  ;  hence  the  report 
spread  at  the  time  of  the  discovery,  that  an  immense  treasure  in  vessels  of 
gold  had  been  dug  up  at  Niraroud.  The  emblems  are  evidently  derived 
from  familiar  objects  in  Eg:)'ptian  mytholoj^y,  which  may  have  been  ap- 
plied by  the  AsByrians  to  other  ideas  The  worlnnanship,  although  not 
purely  Egj'ptian,  appears  to  be  more  so  than  that  of  any  other  specimen  in 
the  coUection,  except  a  fragment  very  closely  resembling  this  plate.t  A 
aearab,  apparently  more  of  a  Phcanician  than  of  an  Egyptian  form,  occurs 


BfWiic  Cop.ti  In.  dlinwter,  tai  1|  in  dMp       Eiifnved  Beanb  ni  Cenlre  of  same  Csp. 
•  Montunents  of  Nineveh,  2nd  scries      Plate  63.  t  Id.     Plate  68 


•    . 


iX 


NINBVBH  AND  DABTLON. 


[Chap.  VIIL 


at  an  ornament  on  many  of  these  bronzei  ;  u  in  the  centre  of  a  well-pre- 
Berved  bowl  otherwise  plain,  and  on  a  dish. 

No.  2.,  depth,  Ij  in.  ;  diameter,  9^  in.,  with  a  broad,  railed  rim,  like 
that  of  a  Boup  plate,  embossed  with  figures  of  greyhounds  pursuing  a  hare. 
The  centre  contains  a  frieze  in  high  relief,  representmg  combata  between ' 
men  and  lions,  and  a  smaller  border  of  gazelles,  between  guilloche  bands, 
encircling  an  embossed  star.*  In  this  very  fine  specimen,  although  the 
costumes  of  tho  figures  are  Egyptian  iu  character,  the  treatment  and  de- 
sign are  Assyrian. 

No,  3.,  shallow;  9 J  inches  diameter;  an  oval  in  the  centre,  covered 
with  dotted  lozenges,  and  set  witli  nine  silver  bosses,  probably  intended  to 
represent  a  lake  or  valley,  surrounded  by  four  groups  of  hills,  each  with 
three  crests  in  high  rt.'Iief,  on  which  are  incised  in  outline  trees  and  stags, 
wild  goats,  bears,  and  leopards.  On  the  sides  of  the  hills,  in  relief,  aro 
similar  figures  of  animals.  The  outer  rim  is  incised  with  trees  and  deer.t 
The  workmanship  of  this  speoinieu  is  Assyrian,  and  very  minute  and  curi- 
ous. The  subject  may  represent  an  Assyrian  paradise,  or  park,  in  a  mount- 
ainous district. 

No.  4.,  diameter,  7^  inches,  the  centre  raised,  and  containing  an  eight- 
rayed  star,  with  smaller  stars  between  each  ray,  encircled  by  a  guilloche 
band.  Tho  remainder  of  the  plate  is  divided  into  eight  compartments,  by 
eight  double-faced  figures  of  Egyptian  character  in  high  relief;  between 
each  figure  are  five  rows  of  animals,  inclosed  by  guilloche  bands  ;  the  first 
three  conaieting  of  stags  and  hinds,  tho  fourth  of  lions,  and  the  fifth  of 
hares,  each  compartment  containing  thirteen  figures.  A  very  beautiful 
specimen,  unfortunately  much  injured.) 

No.  fi.,  diameter,  8 J  inches  ;  depth,  1^  inch.  The  embossings  and  orna- 
ments on  this  plate  are  of  an  Egyptian  character.  The  centre  consists  of 
four  heads  of  the  cow-eared  goddess  Athor  (?),  forming,  with  lines  of  bosfics, 
an  eight-rayed  star,  surrounded  by  hills,  indicated  as  in  plate  No.  3.,  but 
filled  in  with  rosettes  aud  other  ornaments.  Between  the  hills  are  incised 
animals  and  trees.  A  border  of  figures,  almost  purely  Egyptian,  but  un- 
fortunately only  in  part  preserved,  encircles  the  plate  ;  the  first  remaining 
group  is  that  of  a  man  seated  on  a  throne,  beneath  an  ornamented  arch, 
with  the  Egyptian  Baal,  represented  as  on  the  coins  of  Cosaura,  standing 
full  face ;  to  the  right  of  this  figure  is  a  square  ornament  with  pendants 
(resembling  a  sealed  document),  and  beneath  it  tho  crui  ansala  or  Egyp-( 
tian  symbol  of  life.  The  next  group  is  that  of  a  warrior  in  Egyptian  at- 
tire, holding  a  mace  in  his  right  hand,  and  in  his  lefl  a  bow  and  arrow, 
with  the  hair  of  a  captive  of  smaller  proportions,  who  crouches  before  him. 
At  his  side  is  a  tamo  lion,  recalling  to  mind  the  pictures  on  Egyptian 
monuments  of  Ramcscs  II ,  accompanied  by  a  lion  during  his  campaigns. 
A  goddess,  wearing  a  long  Egyptian  tunic,  presents  a  falchion  with  her 

*  Monumeats  of  Nineveii,  3nd  aeries.    Plate  64.  f  Id.    Plate  66. 

t  Id.    A.  Plate  01. 


Chap.  VIII.] 


BRONZE  PLATES. 


159 


I 


right  hand  to  this  wamor,  and  holds  a  sceptie  in  her  Ie{\  Between  theM 
figures  are  two  hieroglyphs,  an  ox's  head  and  an  ibis  or  an  heron.  Over 
the  goddess  is  a  square  tablet  for  her  nanie.  The  next  group  represents 
the  Egyptian  Baal  (?),  with  a  lion's  skin  round  his  body,  and  plumes  on 
his  head,  having  on  each  side  an  Egyptian  figure  wearing  the  "  shent," 
or  short  tunic,  carrj'iug  a  bow,  and  plucking  the  plumes  from  the  head  of 
the  god,  perhaps  symbolical  of  the  victory  of  Horus  over  Typhon.  This 
group  IS  followed  by  a  female  figure,  draped  in  the  Assyrian  fashion,  but 
wearing  on  her  head  the  triple  crown  of  the  Egyptian  god  Pncbta,  hold- 
ing in  one  hand  a  sword,  and  in  the  other  a  bow  (?),  and  having  on  each 
side  men,  also  dressed  in  the  Assyrian  costume,  pouring  out  libations  to 
her  from  a  jug  or  chalice  :  the  Egyptian  symbol  of  life  occurs  likewise  in 
this  place.  The  Egyptian  god  Amon,  bearing  a  bird  in  one  band  and  a 
falchion  in  the  other,  with  female  figures  similar  to  that  last  described,  ap- 
pears to  form  the  next  group  ;  but  unfortunately  this  part  of  the  plate  has 
beea  nearly  destroyed  :  the  whole  border,  however,  appears  to  have  rep- 
retentcd  a  mixture  of  religious  and  historical  scenes.* 

No.  6.,  diameter,  6  inches ;  depth,  I  i  inch  ;  a  projecting  rim,  ornamented 
with  figures  of  vultures  with  outspread  wings ;  an  embossed  rosette,  en- 
circled by  two  Tows  of  fao-shapcd  flowers  and  guillocbe  bands,  occupies  a 
raised  centre,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  frieze,  consisting  of  groups  of  two 
\'ulturc6  devouring  a  hare.  A  highly  finished  and  very  beautiful  specimen. 
On  the  back  of  this  plate  are  five  letters,  either  in  the  Phcenician  or  As- 
syrian cursive  character,  f 

Nos.  7.  and  8.,  covered  with  groups  of  small  stags,  surrounding  an  elab- 
orate star,  one  plate  containing  above  600  figures  ;  the  animals  are  formed 
by  three  blows  from  a  blunt  instrument  or  punch.  These  plates  are  orna- 
mented with  small  bosses  of  silver  and  gold  let  into  the  copper  t 

No.  9.,  diameter,  7|  inches  ;  depth,  1^  inch,  of  fine  workmanship  ;  the 
centre  formed  by  an  incised  star,  surrounded  by  guillocho  and  tutip  bands. 
Four  groups  on  the  sides  representing  a  lion,  lurking  amongst  papyri  or 
reeds,  and  about  to  spring  on  a  bull. 

No.  10.,  diameter  7|  inches.  In  the  centre  a  winged  scarab  raising  the 
diae  of  the  sun,  surrounded  by  guilloche  and  tulip  bands,  and  by  a  double 
frieze,  the  inner  consisting  of  trees,  deer,  winged  uraei,  sphinxes,  and  papy- 
rus plants;  the  outer,  of  winged  scarabs,  flying  serpents,  deer,  and  trees, 
all  incised. 

The  plates  above  described  are  the  most  interesting  specimens  brought 
to  this  country  :  there  are  others,  indeed,  scarcely  less  remarkable  for 
beaaty  of  workmanship,^  or,  when  plain  or  ornamented  with  a  simple  star 

•  Monuments  ofNineveli,  2nd  series.    B.  Plate  61.  t  Id.    B.  Plate  6S. 

I  Id.     E.  Plate  67  and  C.  Plate  59. 

4  I  may  instance  in  particular  a  fragment  covered  with  a  very  elegant  and  classic 
design.  Monuments  uf  Nineveh,  Sod  sches.  Plate  63.,  and  see  Plates  67,  S8,  69. 
of  same  work. 


ZM 


NINEVEH  AND  flABYtON 


[Chap  VUI 


in  the  centre,  for  elegance  of  form.  Of  the  8event«en  deep  bowU  djscot- 
ered,  only  three  have  embossings,  sufficiently  ■well  preserved,  to  be  de- 
scribed i  iho  greater  part  appear  to  be  perfectly  plaru.  The  most  remark- 
able is  8^  inches  in  diameter,  and  3  J  inches  deep,  and  has  at  the  bottom, 
in  the  centre,  an  embossed  star,  eurrounded  by  a  rosette,  and  on  the  fides 
a  hunting  scene  in  bold  relief  From  a  chariot,  drawn  by  two  horses,  and 
driven  by  a  charioteer,  a  warrior  tuniing  back  shoots  an  arrow  at  a  lion, 
which  is  already  wounded ;  whilst  a  second  huntsman  in  armour,  above 
whose  head  hovers  a  hawk,  pierces  the  animal  from  behind  with  a  spear. 
These  figures  arc  followed  by  a  sphinx,  wearing  the  Egyptian  head-drea 
"  pshent"  and  a  collar,  on  which  is  the  bust  of  a  winged,  ram-headcd  god 
Two  trees,  with  flowers  or  leaves  in  the  shape  of  the  usual  Assyrian  tidip 
ornament,  arc  introduced  into  the  group. 

A  second,  7^  inches  in  diameter,  and  3.^  inches  deep,  has  in  the  centre 
a  medallion  similar  to  that  in  the  one  last  described,  and  on  the  eidee,  in 


S^ 


EaUMMNed  Ficon*  o<>  ■>><  fironie  Pedesul  oPi  Kpin  mm  follmlrsra,  in  the  Brillib  M 

very  high  relief,  two  lions  and  two  sphinxea  of  Egyptian  character,  wear- 
ing a  collar,  feathers,  and  housings, 
and  a  head-dress  formed  by  a  disc 
with  two  urrei.  Both  bowls  are  re- 
markable for  the  boldness  of  the  re- 
lief and  the  archaic  treatment  of  the 
figures,  in  this  respect  resembling  the 
ivories  previously  discovered  at  Nim- 
roud  They  forcibly  call  to  mind  the 
early  remains  of  Greece,  and  especial- 
ly the  metal  work,  and  painted  pottery 
found  in  very  ancient  tombs  iu  Etruna, 
which  they  so  closely  resemble  not 
only  in  design  but  in  Bubjeot,  the  same 
mythic   animals  and  the  same  oma- 

menta  being  introduced,  that  we  cannot  but  attribute  to  both  the  same 


Gmboawil  Figuir  on  Ihe  Brnnie  P«<)ciUsI  of  a 
Pleura  n-um  Polled  rara. 


^ 


CsAr.  VITl.] 


BRONZE  VESSEtS. 


Ifil 


\ 


Braau  Pedettal  of  FlRure  from  PoUe- 
dmro. 


origin.*  I  have  given  for  the  sake  of  com- 
parison, wood-cuts  of  the  bronze  pedestal  of 
a  figure  found  at  Polledrara  in  Etruria.  and 
now  in  the  British  Museum.  The  animals 
upon  it  are  precisely  similar  to  thusc  upon 
the  fragment  of  a  dish  bruught  from  Nineveh, 
and,  moreover,  that  peculiar  Assyrian  orna- 
ment, the  guilloche,  is  introduced. 

The  third,  7^  inches  in  diameter,  and  2^ 
inches  deep,  has  in  the  centre  a  star  formed 
by  the  £g)'ptian  hawk  of  the  sun,  bearing 
the  disc,  and  having  at  its  side  a  whip,  be- 
tween two  rays  ending  in  lotus  flowers ;  on 
the  sides  arc  embossed  figures  of  wild  goats, 
lotus-shaped  shnibs,  and  dwarf  trees  uf  peculiar  form. t 
Of  the  cups  the  most  remarkable  are  : — 

No.  1.,  diameter,  5 J  inches,  and  2|  inches  deep,  very  elaborately  orna- 
mented with  figures  of  animals,  interlaced  and  grouped  together  in  singu- 
lar confusion,  covering  the  whole  inner  surface  ;  apparently  representing  a 
combat  between  griffins  and  lions ;  a  very  curious  aud  interesting  speci- 
men, not  unlike  some  of  the  Italian  chasing  of  tho  cinque  cento. t 

No.  2.,  a  fragment,  embossed  with  the  figures 
of  lions  and  bulls,  of  very  fine  workmanship. 

Of  the  remaining  cups  many  are  plain  but 
of  elegant  shajte,  one  or  two  arc  ribbed,  and 
some  have  simply  an  embossed  star  in  the  cen- 

Bronxe  CU|i,  Irom  ^tlDroud.         . 

About  150  bronze  vessels  discovered  in  this  chamber  are  now  in  the 
British  Museum,  without  including  numerous  fragments,  which,  although 
showing  traces  of  ornament,  are  too  far  destroyed  by  decomposition  to  be 
cleaned. 

I  shall  add,  in  an  Appendix,  some  notes  on  the  bronze  and  other  sub- 
stancca  discovered  at  Kimrond,  obligingly  communicated  to  me  by  Dr. 
Percy.  It  need  only  be  observed  here,  that  the  metal  of  the  dishes,  bowls, 
and  rings  has  been  carefully  analysed  by  Mr.  T.  T.  Philips,  at  the  Moseum 
of  Practical  Geology,  and  has  been  found  to  contam  one  part  of  tin  to  ten 
of  copper,  being  exactly  the  relative  proponionB  of  the  beat  ancient  and  mod- 
em bronze.  The  bella,  however,  have  fourteen  per  cent,  of  tin,  showing 
that  the  Assyrians  were  well  aware  of  tho  effect  produced  by  changing 
the  pro{K)rtlons  of  the  metals.  These  two  facts  show  the  advance  made 
by  them  in  the  metallurgic  art. 

For  the  two  Assyrian  bowls  see  Plate  68.  of  the  Monnments  of  Nineveh,  2nd 
These  bronzes  hIiouIiI  al.*o  be  cuinpareil  with  the  vessels  found  at  Cervetri, 

,  engrave<l  in  Grifli's  Moiiunicnli  «Ie  Ccri  Aiilica  (Roma.  1841).  and  with  rariuus 
terracuttus  in  the  British  Museuni. 
t  Monuments  of  NiacvcE),  Snd  series.     C.  Plate  67.  lid.    Plate  67. 

L 


162 


NINETER  AND  BABTLON. 


[Chap.  VIII. 


The  effect  of  age  and  decay  has  been  to  cover  the  surface  of  all  theee 
bronze  objects  wilh  a  coaling  of  beautiful  crj'stals  of  malachite,  beneath 
which  the  cnmponent  subslauces  have  been  converted  into  suboxide  of  cop- 
per and  peroxide  of  tin,  leaving  in  many  instances  no  traces  whatever  of 
the  metale. 

It  would  appear  that  the  Assyrians  were  unable  to  give  elegant  fonns  or 
a  pleasing  appearance  to  objects  in  iron  alone,  and  that  consequently  they 
frequently  overlaid  that  niclul  with  bronze,  either  entirely,  or  partially,  by 
way  of  ornament.  Numerous  interesting  specimens  of  this  nature  are  in- 
cluded in  the  collection  in  the  Britifih  Museum.  Although  brass  is  now 
frequently  cast  over  iron,  the  art  of  using  bronze  for  this  purpose  bad  not, 
I  believe,  been  introduced  itito  modern  metallurgy.*  The  feet  of  the  ring 
tripods  previously  described,  furnish  highly  interesting  specimens  of  this 
process,  and  prove  the  progress  made  by  the  Assyrians  in  it.  The  iron  in- 
closed within  the  copper  has  not  been  exposed  to  the  same  decay  as  that 
detached  from  it,  and  will  still  take  a  polish. 

The  tin  was  probably  obtained  from  Phu'iiicia  ;  and  consequently  that 
used  in  the  bronzes  in  the  British  Museum  may  actually  have  been  export- 
ed, nearly  three  thousand  years  ago,  from  the  British  Isles !  We  find  the 
Assyrians  and  Babylonians  making  an  extensive  use  of  this  metal,  which 
■was  probably  one  of  the  chief  articles  of  trade  supplied  by  the  cities  of  the 
Syrian  coast,  whose  seamen  sought  for  it  on  the  distant  shores  of  the  At- 
lantic. 

The  embossed  and  engraved  vessels  from  Nimroud  ailbrd  many  interest- 
ing illustrations  of  the  progress  made  by  the  ancients  in  metallurgy.  From 
the  Egyptian  character  of  the  designs,  and  especially  of  the  drapery  of  the 
figures,  in  several  of  the  specixnens,  it  may  be  inferred  that  some  of  them 
were  not  Assyrian,  but  had  been  brought  from  a  foreign  people.  As  in  the 
ivories,  however,  the  workmanship,  subjects,  and  mode  of  treatment  are 
more  Assyrian  than  Egyptian,  and  seemed  to  show  that  the  artist  either 
copied  from  Egyptian  models,  or  was  a  native  of  a  country  under  the  in- 
duence  of  the  arts  and  taste  of  Egypt.  The  Sidonians,  and  other  inhab- 
itants of  the  Phd'nician  coast,  ware  the  most  renowned  workers  in  metal  of 
the  ancient  world,  and  their  intermediate  position  between  the  two  great 
nations,  by  which  they  were  alternately  invaded  and  subdued,  may  have 
been  the  cause  of  the  existence  of  a  mixed  art  amongst  them.  In  the 
Homeric  poems  they  arc  frequently  mentioned  as  the  artificers  who  fash- 
ioned and  embossed  metal  cups  and  bowls,  and  Solomon  sought  cunning 
men  from  Tyre  to  make  the  gold  and  brazen  utensils  for  his  temple  and 
palaces.t     It  is,  therefore,  not  impossible  that  the  vessels  discovered  at 

*  Mr  Robinson  of  Pimlico  has,  I  am  informed,  succeeded  in  imitating  some  of  the 
Afuyrian  specimens, 

t  1  Kines,  vii.  13,  14.  2  Cliron.  iv.  The  importsneo  attached  to  such  objects  in 
Tnelal,  which  were  cbictly  used  for  sacred  purposes,  is  shown  by  its  being  especially 
recorded  that  Hiiratii  (or  Hiram),  the  widow's  son,  was  sent  for  tu  moke  "  ihe  pots, 


Jii 


d  were  the  work  of  Phiciiician  artists,*  broupht  CTpressly  rroml 
Br  carried  a\viiy  ainoiigst  the  captives  when  their  cities  wei-c  Htkcn] 
Assyrians,  who,  we  know  from  roany  passages  iu  the  Diblo,t  always  ' 
d  the  smiths  and  urtizans,  and  placed  them  in  their  own  immediate 
Ions.     They  may  have  been  usvd  fur  sucrilicial  purposes,  at  royal 
el>»  or  when  the  king  pcrfurmed  certain  religious  ceremunics,  fi>r  in 
B-rclicfa  he  is  frequently  represented  on  such  occasions  with  a  cup  Oi- 


Bronie  Shlrlda,  rtniii  Nlmroii)). 

hftnd ;  or  they  may  have  formed  part  of  the  spoil  of  some  Syr- 
placed  in  a  teruple  at  Nineveh,  as  the  holy  utensils  of  the  Jews, 

i'Ih,  .ind  the  basons."    Homer  particularly  mentions  Sidonian  goblets  as 
ineml  traniea  of  Pntroclus. 
rcinpmbcred  tltat  Pboinician  characters  occur  on  one  of  the  plates 
in  Cypnis  of  twrlvi-  silver  twiuls  very  closely  resemlilinp  those  found 
knd  further  to  conlirm  the  idea  thai  many  of  these  relics  were  the  works 
|rtista  ;  onfrtrtunatoly  only  two  ot"  llifse  curious  vessels  have  been  pre- 
now  m  Paris;  one,  vlie  most  perfect,  in  the  collection  of  the  Duo 
[ithcr  plai-i^d  hy  M  dc  Saiilcy  m  the  I/juvrc. 
14    Itt      Jeremiati,  XXIV.  1.-,  xxix.  2. 


1 


164 


NINEVEH  AND  BADYLON. 


[Chap.  VIII. 


after  the  destruction  of  the  sanctuary,  were  kept  in  the  temple  of  Babylon.* 

It  is  not,  indeed,  impossible,  that  some  of  them  may  have  been  actually 
brought  from  the  cities  round  Jerusalem  by  t»entiacherib  himself,  or  froni 
i^amaria  by  Shahnaneser  or  Sargon,  who,  we  finil,  inhabited  the  palace  at 
Nimroud,  and  of  whom  several  relics  have  already  been  discovered  ia  the 
riiius.  , 

Around  the  vessels  I  have  described  were  heaped  arms,  remains  of 
armour,  iron  instruments,  glass  bowk,  and  various  objects  in  ivory  and 
bronze.  The  arms  consisted  of  swords,  daggers,  shields,  and  the  heads  of 
spears  and  arrows,  which  being  chiefly  of  iron  felt  to  pieces  almost  as  soon 
as  exposed  to  the  air.  A  few  spccimeos  have  alone  been  preserved,  includ- 
ing the  head  of  a  weapon  resembling  a  trident,  and  the  handles  of  some 
111  the  swords  (?),  which,  being  partly  iu  bronze,  were  less  eaten  away  than 
the  rest.  The  shields  stood  upright,  one  against  the  other,  supported  by  a 
square  piece  of  brick  work,  and  were  so  much  decayed  that  with  great  dif- 
ficulty two  were  moved  and  sent  to  England.  They  are  of  bronze,  and  cir- 
lular,  the  rim  bending  inwards,  and  forming  a  deep  groove  round  the  edge. 
The  handles  are  of  iron,  and  fastened  by  six  bosses  or  nails,  the  heads  of 
which  form  an  ornament  on  the  outer  face  of  the  shield. t  The  diameter 
of  the  largest  and  most  perfect  is  2  feet  G  inches.  Although  their  weight 
must  have  impeded  the  movements  of  an  armed  warrior,  the  Assyrian 
spearmen  are  constantly  represented  in  the  bas-reliefs  with  them.  Such, 
too,  were  probably  the  bucklers  that  Solomon  hung  on  his  lowers. | 

A  number  of  thin  iron  rods,  adhering  together  in  bundles,  were  found 
amougiil  the  arms.  They  may  have  been  the  shafts  of  arrows,  which,  it 
has  been  conjectured  from  several  passages  in  the  Old  Testament,  were  . 
sometimes  of  burnished  metal.  To  "make  bright  the  arrowB"i  may,  how* 
ever,  only  allude  to  the  head  fastened  to  a  reed,  or  shaft  of  some  light  wood. 
Several  such  barba,  both  of  iron  and  bronze,  have  been  found  in  Assyrian 
and  Babylonian  ruins,  and  are  preserved  in  the  British  Museum. 

The  armour  consisted  of  parts  of  breast-plates  (?)  and  of  other  fragments, 
embossed  with  figures  and  ornaments. 

*  In  ancient  history,  embossed  or  inlaid  goblets  are  continually  nientinned  amoogat  i 
the  iifffringslo  ct-k-ttrateil  slinnes.  Gyges  lieiltcated  goblets,  Alyattes,  a  silver  cup, 
anil  nil  \nUid  iron  xaucer  (the  art  of  inlaying  having  been  invented,  according  to  He>- 
rudutus,  by  Gluucus).  and  Crcesus  similar  vesaels,  in  the  temple  of  Delphi.  (Hentrf. 
i.  H  anil  25.  Pauaanias,  I.  x.)  They  were  also  given  as  acceptahlc  presents  to 
kings  and  tlistingiiished  men,  as  we  see  in  2  Sam.  viii  10.  anil  2  Chron,  ix.  23,  24. 
Tiie  Laceilwmonisns  prepared  for  Crtesus  a  brazen  vend  oniamcjited  iciihformtof 
itniinah  rmind  the  rtm  (Htrud.  i,  70),  like  some  of  the  bowls  descnbrd  in  the  text. 
The  embossings  on  the  Niniroiid  bronzes  may  furnish  us  with  a  very  just  idea  of  the 
figures  and  omanK'nts  on  the  ceb'hrated  shield  of  Achillea,  which  were  probably  much 
the  same  in  treatment  and  execution. 

t  Such  may  have  been  "  the  bosses  of  the  bucklers"  mentioned  in  Job,  xv.  26. 

t  IKingM.  16,  17.;  xiv.  25,  26. 

4  Jer.  li.  11.  Ezek.  xxi.  21.,  and  compare  laaiah,  xlix.  2.,  where  a  poliahed  »hafi 
la  mentioned. 


CiiAr.  VIII]  OBJECTS  OF  rvoRy.  fgj 

Amongst  the  iron  instrurMents  M-ere  the  head  of  a  pick,  a  double-hatidleil 


\n  Iron  Plrk,  from  Niraroud. 


Mw  (about  3  feet  6  inches  in  ieiipth),  several  objects  reecmbliiig  the  heads 
of  sledge-hammers,  and  a  large  blunt  spear-head,  Buch  as  we  find  froni  the 


va 


V*?:- 


i:jb^&.> 


I 


Half  ofa  ilouhle-b«ndl«l  Saw,  (hiin  Nlmroud. 

Sculptures  were  used  during  sieges  to  force  stones  from  the  walls  of  be- 
sieged cities.* 

The  most  interesting  of  the  ivorj'  relics  were,  a  carved  staff,  perhaps  a 
royal  sceptre,  part  of  which  has  been  preserved,  although  in  the  bast  stage 
of  decay;  and  several  entire  elephants'  tusks,  the  largest  being  about  2  feet 
6  inches  long.  Amongst  the  smaller  objects  were  several 
figures  and  ro»cUe8,  and  four  oval  bosses,  with  the  nails 
of  capjier  stilt  remaining,  by  which  they  were  fastened  to 
wood  or  some  other  material. 

The  ivory  could  with  diflicully  be  detached  from  the 
earth  in  which  it  was  imbedded.     It  fell  to  small  frag- 
ments, and  even  to  dust,  almost  as  soon  as  exposed  to  the 
air.     Such  specimens  as  have  been  brought  to  this  coun- 
try have  been  restored,  and  further  decay  checked  by  the 
same  ingenious   process  that    was  applied  to    the  ivory 
carvings  first  placed  in  the  British  Museum.     Parts  only 
of  the  elephants'  tusks  have  been  preserved.     We  find 
from  the  baa-reliefs  in  the  north-west  palace  of  Nimroud.f 
and  on  the  obelisk  (where  captives  or  tribute-bearers  are 
seen  carrying  tusks},  that  this  produce  of  the  far  East  was 
»ory   Mptre.   ^,^^,^gJ^^^  ^f_  j,,  early  period  in  considerable  (|uaiitities  to  As- 
syria.    I  have  described  elsewheret  the  frequent  use  of  ivory  for  the  adorn- 
ment of  ancient  Eastern  palaces  and  temples,  as  well  as  for  the  thrones  and 

•  Monuments  or  Nineveh,  lal  series.  Plate  66.  All  these  relies  are  in  the  Brit- 
ish Museum. 

t  Id.  Plate  24.,  where  elephants'  lusks  are  represented  aliovc  the  captives  as  part 
of  the  spoil.  t  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol  ii.  [i  430. 


NlNETtai  AND  BADYLOK. 


[Chap.  VIII. 


furniluro.  Ezekiel  includes  '^horns  ofirory"  amongit  the  objects  brought 
to  Tyre  from  I)<.'dan,  and  the  Assyrians  may  have  oblaiiiod  their  supplies  from 
the  same  coi)i)ir\'.  which  gome  beheve  to  have  been  in  the  Persian  Gull'.* 


UcuiiM'  L  utm  nilmd  with  Uold.     (UngLnal  s>im.j 


Amongst  various  small  objects  in  bronze  >vere  two  cubes,  each  having  on 
one  face  the  figure  of  a  scarab  with  oulstretched  wings,  inlaid  in  gold  ;t  verj* 
interesting  specimens,  and  probably  amongst  the  earliest  known,  of  an  arl 
carried  in  mmlem  times  to  great  perfection  in  the  East. 

Two  entire  glass  bowls,  with  fragiDcuts  of  others,  were  also  found  in  this 
chamber  it  the  glass,  like  all  that  from  the  ruins,  is  covered  with  pearly 
scales,  which,  on  being  removed,  leave  prismaliu  opal-like  colors  of  the 
greatest  brilliancy,  showing,  under  didbrent  lights,  the  most  varied  and 
beautiful  tints.  This  is  a  well  known  ellect  of  age,  arising  from  the  decom- 
position of  certain  component  parts  of  the  glass.  These  bowls  are  probably 
of  the  same  period  as  the  gmall  buttle  foiuid  in  the  ruins  of  the  north-west 
palace  during  the  previous  excavations,  and  iiuw  in  the  British  Museum 
On  this  highly  interesting  relic  is  the  name  of  Jargon,  with  his  title  of  king 
of  Assyria,  in  cuneiform  characters,  and  the  figure  of  a  lion.  We  are,  there- 
fore, able  to  fix  its  date  to  the  latter  part  of  the  seventh  century  b.c.  It 
li,  consi'iucntly,  the  most  ancient  known  specimen  i>f  tninspitrent  glass, 
liuiio  irom  Kgypt  being,  it  is  believed,  earlier  than  the  time  of  the  Psamet- 
llol  (the  end  of  the  sixth  or  beginning  of  the  fifth  century  b.c.  Opaque 
w»lor«il  glass  was,  however,  manufactured  at  a  much  earlier  period,  and 
IHtlia  (•sittM  of  the  liftceiilh  cenlury,  B.i')-  The  Sargon  vase  was  blown  iu 
»ll«  •iilid  piece,  and  then  shajied  and  hollowed  out  by  a  turning-machine, 
»»r  wlili'h  Iho  marks  are  still  plainly  visible.  With  it  were  found,  it  will  be 
iwinwiiilu'riMl,  twii  Itirger  vases  in  white  alabaster,  inscribed  with  the  name 
ul  (III!  iHMio  knig  They  were  all  probably  used  far  holding  some  ointment 
iif  itt<anMMti<  4 

WtUt  Ihtt  tfUM  Iwwls  was  discovered  a  rock-crystal  lena,  with  opposite 

•  I^Mik  v%«il  I't     Ivory  was  amongst  the  ubjects  brought  to  Solomon  by  the  navy 

III   lliuialdkll  (I    KUIK«  «    33) 

iMi'iivily  f*  2M<«.  and  5  299  <>z,  have  iheaptwarance  <if  weights 

ii,lir«i  III  iliiunetrr,  and  UJ  niches  deep ;  the  oilier,  4  inches  in  diam- 


»«• 


.  lit  III  tliM  MhiM  viUHi  is  ^i  inches ;  of  the  alabaster,  7  inches     In  an  ap- 


aiww  and  AJabuier  Vuca  bowlRg  tha  ninM  arSarjan,  rrain  Nlmroud. 

convex  and  plane  faces.  lis  properties  could  scarcely  have  been  unknown 
to  the  Assyrians,  and  we  have  consequeatly  ttie  earliest  speeimen  of  a  mag- 
nifying and  burning-glass.*  It  was  Iniricd  beneath  a  liuap  uf  fragments  of 
beautiful  blue  opaque  glass,  apparently  the  enamel  of  some  object  in  ivor}' 
or  wood,  which  had  perished. 

In  the  further  comer  of  the  chamber,  to  the  left  hand,  stood  the  royal 
throne.  Although  it  was  utterly  impossible,  frotu  the  complete  state  of  de- 
cay of  the  materials,  to  preserve  any  part  of  it  entire,  I  was  able,  by  care- 
fully removing  the  earth,  to  ascertain  that  ift  rescnibled  in  shape  the  chair 
of  state  of  the  king,  as  seen  in  the  sculptures  of  Kouyunjik  and  Khorsa- 
bad.and  particularly  that  represented  in  the  bas-reliefs  already  described, 
of  Sennacherib  receiving  the  captives  and  spoil,  after  the  conquest  of  the 

pendix  will  be  found  some  notes  by  Sir  D  Brewster,  on  the  remarkable  nature  of  the 
process  of  dpeomiKJsnion  in  ihe  glass  from  Nineveh. 

•  I  am  indebted  to  Sir  David  Brewster,  wliu  examined  the  lens,  for  the  fallowing 
note  : — "This  lens  is  plano-convex,  and  of  a  sliKluly  ovul  fomi,  its  Umgth  being  l/, 
inch,  and  its  breadth  Ij'n  inch.  It  is  about  |-*(ths  of  an  int'li  tliiek,  and  a  little  Ihifker 
at  one  side  than  Ihe  oiher.  its  plane  8urra<'c  is  prelty  even,  though  ill  |j«>lislird  and 
scratche<l.  Its  convex  surfa<'e  has  not  been  !,'round.  or  polished,  on  a  sphcneat  con- 
cave disc,  but  lias  been  fashioned  on  a  lapidary's  wheel,  or  by  some  method  eipially 
rude.  The  convex  side  is  tolerably  well  |Hlll.'^hed,  and  lliough  uneven  from  the  modr 
in  which  it  has  been  ground,  it  gi^cs  a  tulerably  distiiiet  fo<nis,  iit  the  distance  or4( 
inches  from  the  plane  side.  There  are  about  twelve  eaviiies  in  tlie  lens,  that  have 
been  opened  during  the  process  of  grinding  it;  these  cavities,  doubtless,  contained 
either  naphtha,  or  the  same  fluid  winch  is  discovered  in  t<ipaz,  ijuarts,  and  other  min- 
erals. As  the  lens  does  not  show  the  polarised  rays  at  great  oblii|uiiies,  iis  jdain" 
surfare  must  be  greatly  inclined  to  Ihe  axis  of  the  hexagonal  pnsni  of  i|Uiirt7.  from 
whinh  It  iivtisl  have  l)een  taken  It  is  obvious,  from  the  bha|ie  und  rude  euttiiig  of 
thci  lens,  that  it  could  not  havp  been  mlended  as  an  orniunent ;  wc  are  entitled,  there- 
fore, to  consider  it  as  intended  to  be  u»cd  aa  a  lens,  cither  for  magnifying,  or  for  con- 
centrating the  rays  of  Ihe  aun,  which  it  does,  however,  very  imperfectly." 


IGS 


MNEVEIl  AND  BAn\XON. 


[Chap   YIU 


Frsgmenw  of  Dranxe  Ornainenta  or  tbs  Throne  (NimtaaAh 

city  of  Laohin^i*  "Wilh  the  exception  of  the  legs,  which  appear  to  have 
been  partly  ol"  ivory,  it  was  of  wood,  cased  or  overlaid  with  hroiize,  as  the 
throne  of  SSolomon  was  of  ivory,  overlaid  with  pold.t  The  metal  was 
most  elaborately  engraved  and  embossed  with  eymbolical  figures  and  orna- 
ments, like  those  embroidered  on  the  robes  of  the  early  Nimroud  king,  such 
as  winged  deities  stniggling  with  grilfius,  mythic  animals,  men  before  the 
sacred  tree,  and  the  winged  lion  and  bull.  As  the  wood-work  over  which 
the  bronze  v/aa  fastened  by  means  of  small  nails  of  the  same  material,  had 
rotted  away,  the  throne  fell  to  pieces,  but  the  metal  casing  was  partly  pre- 
served. Numerous  fragments  of  it  are  now  in  the  British  Museum,  inrliid- 
ing  the  joints  of  the  arms,  and  legs ;  the  rams'  or  bulls'  heads,  which  adorned 
the  end  of  the  arms  (some  still  retaining  the  clay  and  bitumen  with  the  im- 


Bionu  Uuir*  ileail  rrom  Tlironc 


Dronu  Ilrad,  paTtor'nirone,abawlDg  bituiiien  tiuide. 


pression  of  the  carving,  showing  the  substanco  upon  which  the  embossing 
had  been  hammered  out),  and  the  ornamental  scroll-work  of  the  cross-bare, 

•  See  p.  127. 

t  1  Kin^,  X.  18  This  \b  b  highly  interesting  Qlualration  of  the  work  in  Solomon's 
palace*  The  earliest  nse  of  metal  amongst  the  Greeka  appears  also  to  have  been 
36  a  casing  to  wooden  objects. 


£& 


Chap.  VIII] 


THE  ROYAL  THBOWI. 


iG9 


in  the  form  of  the  Ionic  volute.    The  legs  were  adorned 

with  lion's  paws  resting  on  a  pine-shaped  ornament, 

like  the  throiu's  of  (ho  later  Assyrian  sculptures,*  and 

stood  on  u  brottzc  base.     A  rod  with  loose  rings,  to 

which  was  once  hung  embroidered  draperj',  or  some 

rich  stuff,  appears  to  have  belonged  to  the  back  of  the 

chair,  or  to  a  frnme-wurk  raised  above  or  behind  it, 

though  not  I  think,  as  conjectured,  to  a  curtain  con- 

bo^ppBdincorJoinKor  cealing   the  monarch  from  thoM   who   approached 
Thx«.,.  j^.^^ 

In  front  of  the  throne  was  the  fool-stool,  also  of  wood  overlaid  with  em- 
bossed metal,  and  adorned  with  the  heads  of  rams  or  bulls.  The  feet  end- 
ed in  lion's  paws  and  pine  cones,  tike  those  of  the  throne.  The  two  pieces 
oi'  furniture  may  have  been  placed  together  in  a  temple  as  an  offering  to 
the  gods,  as  Midas  placed  his  throne  in  the  temple  of  Delphi. t  The  orna- 
ments on  them  were  so  purely  Assyrian,  that  there  can  be  little  doubt  of 
their  having  been  expressly  made  for  the  Assyrian  king,  and  not  having 
been  the  spoil  ol°  some  foreign  nation. 

Near  the  throne,  and  leaning  against  the  mouth  of  the  well,  was  a  cir- 


Bronee  Coung,  rrofn  (hs  Throne  (Niruroud) 

•  I  succeeded,  after  much  trouble,  in  moving  ami  packing  two  of  these  legs  -,  but 
ihey  appear  tn  have  since  fallen  to  pieces 

t  That  Eastern  monarcha  were,  however,  accustomed  to  conceal  (Uenisclves  by 
some  such  contrivances  from  their  Bubjecta,  wk  know  from  the  history  of  Deiocea. 
(Herod  I  99  )  It  has  been  even  conjectured  that  the  Hebrew  word  for  a  throne  in- 
fera  a  veiled  seat.  The  Assyrian  kings,  if  we  may  jiiilge  from  the  bas-reUefs,  were 
more  accessible,  and  mingled  more  freely  with  iheir  suhjcpts. 

t  Herod,  i  14  I  need  scareely  remind  the  reader  nf  the  frequent  mencinn.  in  an- 
cient historians,  of  thrones  and  couches  omauienied  with  metal  Ieg;s  m  the  shape  of 
the  feet  of  animals. 


'I 

4 


170  NIMBTBH  AND  BABYLOIT.  [ChaP.  TQL 

eular  band  of  bronze,  2  feet  4  inches  in  diameter,  ctudded  with  natb:  It 
appears  to  have  been  the  metal  casing  of  a  wheel,  or  of  some  olgeetof 
wood. 

Such,  with  an  alabaster  jar,*  and  a  few  other  objeeta  in  metal,  wer«  the 
relics  fonnd  in  the  newly-opened  room.  AAer  the  examinatioa  I  had  made 
of  the  building  daring  my  former  ezeavations,  this  aocid«ital  diwowiy 
proves  that  other  treasures  may  .still  exist  in  the  mound  of  Minuoodt  tad 
increases  my  regret  that  means  were  not  at  my  oommaad  to  ramova  the 
rubbish  from  the  centre  of  the  other  ehambexa  in  tlw  palaoe. 

• 

*  After  my  departure  from  Assyria,  a  similar  alabaster  jar  was  disearrarsd  fa  an 
adjoining  chamber.  Colonel  Rawlinson  states  that  the  remaina  of  preeerres  weie 
found  in  it,  and  hence  conjectures  that  the  room  in  which  the  bronae  ol^eota  de> 
scribed  in  this  chapter  were  found,  was  a  kitchen.  Theie  is  noOing,  lKnveTBr,tl> 
show  that  this  was  the  case,  even  if  the  contents  of  the  jar  are  audi  sa  CoiaoBl  Raw* 
linson  supposes  them  to  be.  It  is  much  more  probable,that  it  was  a  lepoaitory  tc 
the  royal  anus  and  sacrificial  vessels. 


VISIT  TO    THE    WIWOKD    LIONS    BY    NIGHT. — TKK     UlTttMKN    »P«tt«08. KRMOVaL    Or   TUB 

WINURI)  LIONS  TO    TItK    RITEH. FLOOPB   AT   NIXROl'l). — 1.0»»   AMP  RECOVERY    or   l.ION 

YKZtUI  MARKIAUK   KKBTtVAL BAAZANI. — VISIT  TO   BATIAN. 8ITC  Or  THK   BATTLE  OV 

AUBKLA  — IIKISCHIPTION    OF    ROCK-BCULPTURKS. INSCRIKTION*. — THE    SIIABBAK*. 

By  the  28th  of  January,  the  colossal  lions  forming  the  portal  to  the  great 
hall  in  the  iiorth-wcst  palaee  of  NiiiirouiH  were  reaily  to  he  draptred  to  the 
river-hank.  The  walla  and  their  Bcuiplured  panelling  had  heen  removed 
from  both  aides  of  them,  and  they  stood  isolated  in  the  midst  of  the  ruins. 
Wo  rode  one  calm  ckuidless  night  to  the  mound,  to  look  on  them  for  the 
last  time  before  they  were  taken  from  their  old  rcsliugf-places.  The  moon 
was  at  her  full,  and  as  we  drew  nijih  to  the  edge  of  the  deep  wall  of  earth 
rismg  around  them,  her  soft  light  was  creeping  over  the  stern  features  of 
the  human  heads,  and  driving  before  it  the  dark  shadows  which  still 
clothed  the  lion  forms.  One  by  one  the  limbs  of  the  gigantic  sphinxes 
emerged  from  the  gloom,  until  the  monsters  were  unveiled  before  us.  I 
shall  never  forget  that  night,  or  the  emotions  which  those  venerable  (igures 
caused  within  me.  A  few  hours  more  and  they  were  to  stand  no  longer 
where  tbey  had  stood  uiiscaltieil  amidst  the  wreck  of  man  and  his  works 
for  ages  It  seemed  alnwst  sacrilege  to  tear  them  from  their  old  haunts  to 
make  them  a  more  wonder-stock  to  the  busy  crowd  of  a  new  world.  They 
were  better  suited  to  the  desolation  around  them  ;  for  they  had  guarded 
the  palace  in  its  glory,  and  it  was  for  llicrii  to  watch  over  it  in  its  ruin. 
Sheikh  Abd-ur-Rahman,  who  had  ridden  with  us  to  the  mound,  was  troub- 
led with  no  such  reflections      He  gazed  listlessly  at  the  grim  images,  won- 


172 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  IX. 


dered  at  tb«  foUy  of  the  Franks,  thought  the  night  cold,  and  turned  h» 
mare  towards  hie  tents.  We  scorcfly  heeded  his  going,  but  stood  speech* 
less  in  the  deserted  portal,  until  the  shadows  again  began  to  creep  over  ita 
hoary  guardians. 

Beyond  the  ruined  palaces  a  scene  scarcely  less  solemn  awaited  us.  I 
had  Bent  a  party  of  Jebours  to  the  bitumen  springs,  outside  the  walls  to  the 
east  of  the  inclosure.  The  Arabs  having  lighted  a  small  fire  with  brush- 
wood awaited  our  coming  to  throw  the  burning  sticks  upon  the  pitchy 
pools.  A  thick  heavy  smoke,  such  as  rose  from  the  jar  on  the  sea  shore 
when  the  fisherman  had  broken  the  seal  of  Solomon,  rolled  upwards  in 
curling  volumes,  hiding  the  light  of  the  moon,  and  spreading  wide  over 
the  sky.  Tongues  of  flame  and  jets  of  gas,  driven  from  the  burning  pit, 
shot  through  the  murky  canopy.  As  the  tire  brightened,  a  thousand  fan- 
tastic forms  of  light  played  amidst  the  smoke.  To  break  the  cindered  criut, 
and  to  bring  fresh  slime  to  the  surface,  the  Arabs  threw  large  stones  into 
the  springs  ;  a  new  volume  of  fire  then  burst  forth,  throwing  a  deep  red 
glare  upon  the  figures  and  upon  the  landscape.  The  Jebours  danced  round 
the  burning  pools,  like  demons  in  some  midnight  orgie,  shouting  their  war- 
cry,  and  brandishing  their  glittering  arms.  In  an  hour  the  bitumen  was 
exhausted  for  the  time,*  the  dense  smoke  gradually  died  away,  and  the 
pale  light  of  the  moon  again  shone  over  the  black  slime  pita. 

The  colossal  lions  were  moved  by  still  simpler  and  ruder  means  than 
those  adopted  on  my  first  expedition.  They  were  tilled  over  upon  loose 
earth  heaped  behind  them,  their  too  rapid  descent  being  checked  by  a  haws- 
er, which  was  afterwards  replact'd  by  props  of  wood  and  stone.  They 
were  then  lowered,  by  levers  and  jackscrews,  upon  the  cart  brought  un- 
der them.  A  road  paved  with  flat  stones  had  been  made  to  the  edge  of 
the  mound,  and  the  sculpture  was,  without  difficulty,  dragged  from  the 
trenches. 

Beneath  the  lions,  embedded  in  earth  and  bitumen,  were  a  few  bones, 
which,  on  exposure  to  the  air,  fell  to  dust  before  I  could  ascertain  whether 
they  were  human  or  not.  The  sculptures  rested  simply  upon  the  platform 
of  sun-dried  bricks  without  any  other  sub-structure,  a  mere  layer  of  bitu- 
men, about  an  inch  thick,  having  been  placed  under  the  plinth. 

Owing  to  recent  heavy  rains,  which  had  left  in  many  places  deep 
■wamps,  wo  experienced  much  difficulty  in  dragging  the  cart  over  the  plain 
tu  the  river  side.  Three  days  were  spent  in  transporting  each  lion.  The 
nion  of  Nnifa  and  Nimroud  again  came  to  our  help,  and  the  Abou-t^alman 
honrtucn,  with  Sheikh  Abd-ur-Rahmau  at  their  head,  encouraged  us  by 
ihoir  prt'SL'noe.  The  unwieldy  mass  was  propelled  from  behind  by  enor- 
mous iovors  of  jxiplar  wood  ;  and  in  the  costumes  of  those  who  worked,  aa 
Wfll  ai  in  the  means  adopted  to  move  the  colossal!  sculptures,  except  that 
wv  uhhI  n  whci'led  cart  instead  of  a  sledge,  the  procession  closely  resem- 
blrnl  that  which  in  days  of  yore  transported  the  same  great  figures,  and 
*  In  It  t\'W  lioura  the  pits  are  sufficiently  filled  to  take  fire  again. 


Chap.  tX.)  «"^o  THE  "0N«,  173 

which  we  Bee  so  graphically  represented  on  the  walls  of  Kooyunjik.*  As 
they  had  been  brought  so  were  they  taken  away. 

It  was  necessary  to  humor  and  excite  the  Arabs  to  induce  them  to  per- 
•evere  in  the  arduous  work  of  dra);;ging  the  cart  through  the  deep  soft  soil 
into  which  it  continually  sank.  At  one  time,  after  many  vain  eflbrts  to 
move  the  buried  wheels,  it  was  unanimously  declared  that  Mr.  Cooper,  the 
artist,  brought  ill  luck,  and  no  ono  would  work  until  he  retired.  The  cum- 
brous machine  crept  onward  for  a  few  more  yards,  but  again  all  exertions 
were  fruitless.  Then  the  Frank  lady  would  bring  good  fortune  if  she  sat 
on  the  sculpture.  The  wheels  rolled  heavily  along,  but  were  soon  clogged 
once  more  in  the  yielding  soil.  An  evil  eye  surely  lurked  among  the 
workmen  or  the  bystanders.  Search  was  quickly  made,  and  one  having 
been  detected  upon  whom  this  curse  had  alighted,  he  was  ignominiously 
driven  away  with  shouts  and  execrations.  This  impediment  having  beea 
removed,  the  cart  drew  nearer  to  the  village,  but  soon  again  came  to  a 
standstill.  All  the  Sheikhs  were  now  summarily  degraded  from  their 
rank  and  honors,  and  a  weak  ragged  boy  liaviug  been  dresiied  up  in  taw- 
dry kerchiels,  and  invested  with  a  cloak,  was  pronounced  by  Hormuzd  to 
be  the  only  tit  chief  for  such  puny  men.  The  cart  moved  forwards,  until 
the  ropes  gave  way,  under  the  new  excitement  caused  by  this  reflection 
upon  the  charaotcr  of  the  Arabs.  When  that  had  subsided,  and  the  pres- 
ence of  the  youthful  Sheikh  no  longer  encouragud  his  subjects,  he  was  as 
summarily  deposed  as  he  had  been  elected,  and  a  greybeard  of  ninety  was 
raised  to  the  dignity  in  his  stead.  He  had  his  turn  ;  then  the  most  unpop- 
ular of  the  Sheikhs  were  compelled  to  lie  down  on  the  ground,  that  the 
groaning  wheels  might  pass  over  them,  liko  the  car  of  Juggernaut  over  its 
votaries.  With  yells,  shrieks,  and  wild  antics  the  cart  was  drawn  within 
a  few  inches  of  the  prostrate  men.  As  a  last  resource  I  seized  a  rope  my- 
self, and  with  shouts  of  defiance  between  the  different  tribes,  who  were 
divided  into  separate  parties  and  pulled  against  each  other,  and  amidst  iho 
deafening  tafdel  of  the  women,  tho  lion  was  at  length  fairly  brought  to  the 
water's  edge. 

The  winter  rains  had  not  yet  swelled  the  waters  of  the  river  so  as  to  en- 
able a  raft  bearing  a  very  heavy  cargo  to  Uoal  with  safety  to  Baghdad.  It 
was  not  until  the  month  of  April,  after  I  had  left  Mosul  on  ray  journey  to 
the  Khabour,  that  the  floods,  from  the  melting  of  the  snows  in  the  higher 
mountains  of  Kurdistan,  swept  down  thi^  valley  of  the  Tigris.  I  was 
consequently  obliged  to  coalide  the  task  of  embarking  the  sculptures  to 
Behnan,  my  principal  overseer,  a  Mosuloean  stonecwttcr  of  considerable 
skill  and  experience,  Mr.  Vice-consul  Rassam  kindly  undertaking  to  super- 
intend the  operation.  Owing  to  extraordinary  storms  in  the  hills,  tho  river 
rose  suddenly  and  with  unexampled  rapidity.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rassam  were 
at  the  lime  at  Nimroud,  and  the  raftinen  had  prepared  the  rafts  to  receive 
the  lions.  It  was  with  difficulty  that  Ihey  escaped  before  the  flood,  Irom 
•  See  woodcut,  p.  93. 


174 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


(Chap,  IX. 


my  house  in  the  village  to  the  top  of  the  ruina.     The  Jaif  was  one  vast 

Bea,  iiiui  a  furious  wind  drove  the  waves  against  the  fi>ot  of  the  moniid.  The 
Arabs  had  never  seen  n  similar  inundation,  and  before  they  could  escape 
to  the  high  land  maxiy  persons  were  overwhelniefl  in  the  waters. 

When  ihe  flood  had  subsided,  the  lions  on  the  river  bank,  though  cove^ 
ed  M'ilh  iJiud  ami  silt,  were  found  uninjured.  They  were  speedily  placed 
on  the  rafts  prepared  for  them,  but  unfortunately  during  the  operation  one 
of  them,  which  had  previously  been  cracked  nearly  across,  separuted  into 
two  parts.  Both  sculptures  were  doomed  to  misfortune.  Some  person,  un- 
covering the  other  duriup  the  night,  broke  the  nose.  I  was  unable  to  dis- 
cover the  author  of  this  wanton  mischief  He  was  probably  a  stranger, 
who  had  some  feud  with  the  Arabs  working  in  the  excavations.* 

The  rafts  reached  Baghdad  in  safety.  After  receiving  the  necessary  re- 
paira  they  floated  onwards  to  Busrah.  The  waters  of  the  Tigris  through- 
out its  course  had  risen  far  above  their  usual  level.  The  embankments, 
long  neglected  by  the  Turkish  governinenl,  had  given  way.  and  the  river, 
bursting  from  its  bed,  spread  itself  over  the  surrounding  country  in  vMt 
lakes  and  marshes.  One  of  the  rafts  was  dragged  into  a  vortex  which 
swept  through  a  sluice  newly  opened  in  the  cnimbling  bank.  Notwith- 
standing the  exertions  of  the  raftmen,  aided  by  the  crew  of  a  boat  that  ac- 
companied them,  it  was  carried  far  into  the  interior,  and  left  in  the  middle 
of  a  swamp,  about  a  mile  from  the  stream.  The  other  raft  fortunately  e»- 
caped,  and  reached  Busrah  without  accident. 

For  some  lime  the  slraiuied  raft  was  given  up  for  lost,  Fortunately  it 
bore  the  broken  lion,  or  its  recover}'  had  probably  been  impossible.  Cap- 
tain Junes,  with  his  usual  skill  and  intrepidity,  took  his  steamer  over  the 
ruined  embankment,  and  into  the  unexplored  morass.  After  great  exer- 
tion, under  a  burning  sun  in  the  midst  of  summer,  he  succeeded  in  placing 
the  two  parts  of  the  sculpture  on  large  boats,  provided  for  the  purpose,  and 
in  conveying  them  to  their  destination.! 

During  my  hasty  visit  in  the  autumn  to  Bavian,  I  had  been  uuable  either 
to  examine  the  rock-tablets  with  sufficieul  care,  or  to  copy  the  inscriptions. 
The  lions  having  been  moved,  I  seized  the  first  leisure  moment  to  retom 
to  those  remarkable  monuments. 

Cawal  Yuauf  having  invited  me  to  the  marriage  of  his  niece  at  Baashiek- 
hah,  we  left  Nimroud  early  in  the  morning  for  that  village,  striking  across 
the  country  through  Tel  Yakoub,  Karakosh  (a  large  village  inhabited  by 
Catholic  ChaldH>ans,  and  having  several  churches),  and  BartoUi.  We  were 
mot  at  some  distance  from  Baashickhah  by  the  Cawal,  followed  by  the 
principal  inhabitants  on  horseback,  and  by  a  large  concourse  of  people  oa 
foot,  accompanied  by  music,  and  by  children  bringing  lambs  as  ofierings.    It 

•  Both  sriilptorcs  Imvc,  however,  licpn  completely  restored  in  the  Dritlah  Museom. 

t  These  acridenls,  and  even  aiill  mure  llic  carelesanes.t  afterwards  shown  in  bring- 
ing them  to  this  cfumlry,  have  nuicJi  injurrd  these  fine  specimens  of  Assyrian  sculp- 
ture, which  now  stand  in  a  great  hall  of  the  British  Museum. 


Chap.  IX. 1 


A  TBZIDI  MARRIAOK. 


175 


was  already  ihe  second  day  of  the  marriage,  On  the  previous  day  the  par- 
ties had  entered  into  the  contract  before  the  usual  witnesses,  amidst  rcjoio- 
ingji  and  dances.  After  our  arrival,  the  bride  was  led  to  the  house  of  the 
bridegroom,  surrounded  by  the  iuhabitants,  dressed  in  their  gayest  robes, 
aud  by  the  Cawals  playing  on  their  instruments  of  music.  She  was  cover- 
ed from  head  to  foot  by  a  thick  veil,  and  was  kept  behind  a  curtain  in  the 
oomer  of  a  darkened  room.  Here  she  remained  until  the  guests  had  feasted 
three  days,  after  which  the  bridegroom  was  allowed  to  approach  her. 

The  courtyard  of  the  house  was  filled  with  dancers,  and  during  the  day 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  night  nothing  was  heard  but  the  loud  signs  of 
rejoicing  of  the  women,  and  the  noise  of  the  drum  and  the  pipe, 

On  the  third  day  the  bridegroom  was  sought  early  in  the  nionung,  and 
led  in  triumph  by  his  friends  I'rom  htnise  to  house,  receiving  at  each  a  tri- 
fling present.  He  was  iheu  placed  within  a  circle  of  dancers,  and  the 
guests  and  bystanders,  M'etting  small  coiii£,  stuck  them  on  his  forehead.* 
The  money  was  collected  as  it  fell,  in  an  open  kerchief  held  by  his  com- 
panions under  his  chin. 

After  this  ceremony  a  party  of  young  men,  who  ha/d  attached  thcmselvea 
to  the  bridegroom,  rushed  into  the  crowd,  and  carrying  oflthc  most  wealthy 
of  the  guests  locked  them  up  in  a  dark  room  until  they  consented  to  pay  a 
ransom  fyr  their  release.  This  violence  and  restraint  were  cheerfully  sub- 
mitted to,  and  the  money  thus  collected  was  a<lded  to  the  dowry  of  the 
newly  married  couple.  There  was  feasting  during  the  rest  of  the  day, 
with  raki-drinking  and  music,  and  the  usual  accompaniments  of  an  East- 
ern wedding. 

Leaving  the  revellers  I  rode  to  Baazani  with  Cawal  Yusuf,  Sheikh 
Jindi  (the  stern  leader  of  the  religious  ceremonies  at  Sheikh  Adi),  and  a 
few  Yezidi  notables,  to  examine  the  rocky  valleys  behind  the  village.  1 
once  more  searched  in  vain  Ibi  some  traces  of  ancient  quarries  from  whence 
the  Assyrians  might  have  obtained  the  slabs  used  in  their  buildings.  At 
the  entrance  of  one  of  the  dwp  ravines,  which  runs  into  the  (ruliel  Mak- 
loub,  a  clear  spring  gushes  from  a  grotto  in  the  hill-side.  Tradition  saya 
that  this  is  the  cave  of  the  Seven  Sleepers  and  their  Dog,  and  the  Yczidia 
have  made  the  spot  a  ziareh,  or  place  of  pilgrimage. t 

III  the  sides  of  the  same  ravine  are  numerous  excavated  sepulchral 
chambers,  with  recesses  or  troughs  iu  them  for  the  reception  of  the  dead, 
such  as  I  have  so  frequently  had  occasion  to  describe. 

Our  road  from  Baashickhah  to  Bavian  lay  across  the  rocky  range  of  the 
Gebcl  Makloub.    We  found  it  diilicult  and  precipitous  on  the  western  face, 


*  This  custom  of  sticking  coins  to  the  forehead  of  a  bridegroom  is  common  to  sev- 
eral races  of  the  East,  amoni^st  others  to  the  Turcomans,  who  inhabit  tiio  villages 
round  Mosul. 

t  No  tratiilioii  is  more  generally  current  in  tliR  Eiist  (lian  tlm  uoli  known  story  of 
the  Seven  Sleepers  and  their  Dog.  There  is  scarcely  u  iliiatrirL  without  the  original 
cave  in  which  the  youths  were  concealed  during  their  miraculous  slumber. 


WIWBVBn  AND  BABTLON. 


[Chap.  IX. 


and  scarcely  practicable  to  laden  beasts  ;  on  the  eastern,  it  sank  gradually 
into  a  broad  plain.  Wo  passed  the  village  of  Giri  Mohammed  Araba. 
built  rn?ar  an  artifi«ial  inuuiitl  of  considerable  size.  Similar  mounds  are 
scattered  here  and  there  over  the  flat  country,  and  under  almost  every  one 
it  a  Kurdish  or  Arab  hamlet. 

A  ride  of  seven  hours  brought  us  to  the  foot  of  the  higher  limestone 
range,  and  to  the  mouth  of  the  ravine  containing  the  rock-sculptures. 
Bavian  is  a  mere  Kurdish  hamk't  of  five  or  six  miserable  huts  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Ghazir.  We  stopped  at  the  larger  village  of  Khinnia ;  the 
two  being  scarcely  half  a  mile  apart,  the  place  is  usually  called  "  Khinnis* 
Bavian  "  The  Arab  population  ceases  with  the  plains,  the  villages  in  the 
hills  being  inhabited  by  Kurds,  and  included  in  the  district  of  Misaouri 
Adjoining  Khinnis  is  the  Yezidi  district  of  Slieikhan. 

The  roek-Bculplures  of  Bavian  are  the  most  important  that  have  yet 
been  discovered  in  Assyria*  They  are  carved  in  relief  on  the  side  of  a 
narrow,  rocky  ravine,  oti  the  right  bank  of  the  Gomel,  a  brawling  moant- 
ain  torrent  issuing  from  the  Missouri  hills,  and  one  of  the  principal  feedera 
of  the  small  river  Ghazir,  the  ancient  Bumadus.  The  Gomel  or  Gomela 
may,  perhaps,  be  traced  in  the  ancient  name  of  Gaugamela.t  celebrated 
for  that  great  victory  which  gave  to  the  Macedonian  conqueror  the  domin- 
ion of  the  Eastern  world.  Although  the  battlefield  was  called  after  Al- 
icia, a  neighbouring  city,  we  know  that  the  river  Zab  intervened  between 
them,  ami  that  the  battle  was  fought  near  the  village  of  Gaugamela,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Burnodue  or  Ghazir.  the  Gomela  of  the  Kurds.  It  ia  re- 
markable that  tradition  has  not  preserved  any  record  of  the  precise  scene 
of  an  event  which  so  materially  aflected  the  destinies  of  the  East.  The 
history  of  this  great  battle  is  unknown  to  the  present  inhabitants  of  the 
country  ;  nor  does  any  local  name,  except  perhaps  that  which  I  have 
pointed  out,  serve  to  connect  it  with  these  plains.  The  village,  which 
once  stood  near  the  mound  of  Niinroud,  was,  indeed,  said  to  have  been 
called  Dariousha,  after  the  Persian  monarch,  who  slept  there  on  the  night 
preceding  the  defeat  that  deprived  him  of  bis  empire.}     Some  have  fan- 

•  They  were  first  visited  by  the  late  M.  Rouet,  French  consul  at  Mosul.  In  my 
Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  ii.  p.  148.  note,  will  be  found  a  short  descripiion  of 
the  sculptures  liy  my  friend  Mr.  Ross.  These  are  tht'  ruck-tablels  wliith  have  been 
recently  described  in  ilie  Frendi  jiapers,  aa  a  new  discovery  by  M.  Place,  and  as  con- 
taining a  scries  ofportraila  of  the  .Assyrian  kings  ! 

t  In  s<mic  M.SS.  of  Qnintus  CurtiuH,  tlie  Qumadiis  or  Gliazir  is  callod  the  "Burnt- 
/«/,"  which  would  not  l>e  far  (roin  thr>  rnodom  name  of  the  tipper  branch  of  the  river 
It  will,  of  course,  be  rtinemhcred,  that  tiaiignmela,  according  lu  anrient  historians, 
signifies  "  a  caiuel,"  as  derived  probably  from  Ocmci,  the  Semitic  word  for  thai 
annual. 

}  I  never  heard  any  similar  tradition  from  the  people  of  lite  cmintry.  According 
to  the  Shemutti,  who  inhabit  the  new  village  Ihe  name  was  l>arRWi8h,  1. 1.  the  place 
of  Dervishes.  It  b<'longed  to  Turcomans,  who  mostly  died  of  the  plague,  the  remain- 
der roigraling  to  Selamiyah. 


Ji 


OhaF.  IX.]  SCTLPrnHBS  AT  BAVUN.  J  77 

oied  a  umilarity  betweec  the  name  of  GaugameU  and  that  of  the  modem 
Tillage  of  Karamlen.  The  battlefield  was  probably  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Tell  Aswad,  or  between  it  and  the  junction  of  the  Ghazir  with  the  Zab, 
on  the  direct  line  of  march  to  the  fords  of  that  river.  We  had  undoubted- 
ly oroesed  the  very  spot  during  our  ride  to  Bavian.  The  whole  of  the 
oonntry  between  the  Makloub  range  and  the  Tigris  is  equally  well  suited 
to  the  operations  of  mighty  armies,  but  from  the  scanty  topographical  de- 
tail* given  by  the  historians  of  Alexander  we  are  anable  to  identify  tlic 
exact  place  of  his  victory.  It  is  curious  that  hitherto  no  remains  or  relics 
have  been  turned  up  by  the  plough  which  would  serve  to  mark  the  pre- 
ciae  site  of  so  great  a  battle  as  that  of  Arbela. 

The  principal  rook-tablet  at  Bavian  contains  four  figures,  sculptured  in 
relief  upon  the  smoothed  face  of  a  limestone  cliff,  rising  perpendicularly 
from  the  bed  of  the  torrent.  They  are  inclosed  by  a  kind  of  frame  28  feet 
high  by  30  feet  wide,  and  are  protected  by  an  overhanging  cornice  from  the 
water  which  trickles  down  the  face  of  the  precipice.  Two  deities,  facing 
eaeh  other,  are  represented,  as  thoy  frequently  are  on  monuments  and  rel- 
icB  of  the  same  period,  standing  on  mythic  animals  resembling  dogs.  They 
wear  the  high  tquare  head-dress,  with  horns  uniting  in  front,  peculiar  to 
the  human-beaded  bulls  of  the  later  Assyrian  palaces.  One  holds  in  the 
left  hand  a  kind  of  staff  surmounted  by  the  sacred  tree.  To  the  centre  of 
this  ataff  is  attached  a  ring  encircling  a  figure,  probably  that  of  the  king. 
The  other  hand  is  stretched  forth  towards  the  opposite  god,  who  carries  a 
similar  ataff,  and  grasps  in  the  right  hand  an  object  which  is  too  much  in- 
jured to  be  accurately  described.*  These  two  figures  may  represent  but 
one  and  the  same  great  tutelary  deity  of  the  Assyrians,  as  the  two  kings 
who  stand  in  act  of  adoration  before  them  are  undoubtedly  but  one  and  the 
same  king.  The  monarch,  thus  doubly  portrayed,  is  behind  the  god.  He 
raises  one  hand,  and  holds  in  the  other  the  sacred  mace,  ending  in  a  ball. 
His  dress  resembles  that  of  the  builder  of  the  Kouyunjik  palace,  Sennache- 
rib, with  whom  the  inscriptions  I  shall  presently  describe,  identify  him. 
The  peak  projecting  from  the  conical  royal  tiara  is  longer  and  more  pointed 
than  usual.  The  ornaments  of  the  costumes  of  the  four  figures  are  rich 
and  elaborate.  The  sword-scabbards  end  in  lions,  and  the  earrings  are  pe- 
culiarly elegant  in  design.  Resting  on  the  cornice  above  the  sculptures, 
and  facing  the  ravine,  are  the  remains  of  two  crouching  sphinxes,  proba- 
bly similar  in  form  to  those  at  the  grand  entrance  to  the  south-west  palace 
of  Nimroud.t     Behind  them  is  a  narrow  recess  or  platform  in  the  rock. 

This  bas-relief  has  suffered  greatly  from  the  effects  of  the  atmosphere, 
and  in  many  parts  the  details  can  no  longer  be  distinguished.  But  they 
have  been  still  more  injured  by  those  who  occupied  the  country  after  the 
fall  of  the  Assyrian  empire.  Strangers,  having  no  reverence  for  the  records 
or  aacred  monuments  of  those  who  went  before  them,  excavated  in  the 

*  Bee  Monuments  of  Nineveli,  2nd  series,  Plate  61.  for  an  illustration  of  these 
rock-sculptures.  t  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  i.  p.  349. 

M 


178 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON 


[Chap  IX 


T 


V 


^1 


ready-Bcarped  rocka  the  sepulchral  chambers  of  their  dead*  In  this  great 
tablet  there  are  four  such  tombs.  Two  have  Viecn  cut  between  the  figures 
of  the  pod,  and  have  spared  ihe  pt'iiljitttres  The  others  have  destroyed 
the  head  of  one  king  and  a  part  of  the  rolx's  of  the  opptisite  figure.  The 
entrances  to  the  two  largfsl  were  once  ornamented  with  columns,  which 
have  been  broken  away.  Round  the  walls  of  these  excavated  chambers 
arc  the  usual  troughs  for  the  bodies  of  the  deiid.  1  entered  the  tornbs  by 
means  of  a  rope  lowered  fioni  above  by  a  jiarfy  of  Kurds.  They  were 
empty,  their  contents  having,  of  course,  been  long  before  carried  away,  or 
destroyed. 

To  the  left  of  this  great  bas-relief,  and  nearer  the  mouth  of  the  ravine, 

is  a  second  tablet  contaiuing 
a  horseman  at  full  speed,  and 
the  remams  of  other  figures. 
Both  horse  and  rider  are  of 
colossal  proportions,  and  re- 
markable for  the  spirit  of  the 
outline.  The  warrior  wears 
the  Assyrian  pointed  helmet, 
and  couehcs  a  long  ponder- 
ous s]iear,  as  in  the  act  of 
charging  the  enemy  Before 
him  is  a  colossal  figure  of 
the  king,  and  behind  him  a 

above  his  head  a  row  of  smaller  figures  of  goJs  standing  on  animals  of  vari- 
inis  forms,  as  in  the  rock-sculptures  of  Mallhaiyah. 

This  fine  bas-relief  has,  unfortunately,  snlTered  even  more  than  the  other 
monuments  from  the  efliicts  of  the  atmosphere,  and  would  easily  escape 
notice  without  an  acquaintance  with  its  position. 

Scattered  over  the  cliff,  on  each  side  of  the  principal  bas-reliefs,  are 
eleven  small  tablets,  some  easily  accessible,  others  so  high  up  on  the  face 
of  the  precipice,  that  they  are  scarcely  seen  from  below     One  is  on  a  level 

•  ft  IS  evident  ihai  thran  louilt.s  am  not  of  the  Assyrian  (■poi:h,  supposing  even  the 

Assyrians  to  liave  jilucol  their  drail  in  chambers  excav.itcd  in  the  rocks      I  liave 

never  met  willi  T(>cl;-toiut)s  winch  could  lie  referred  wiili  any  certainty  to  that  porind 

In  a  has-relicf  discovcTod  at  Khnrsabad  one  writer(Donorai,  Nineveh  ami  its  Palaces, 

p    196  )  delects  tbc  re  present  at  ion  of  such  excavations  in  a  rtick  on  which  stands 

a  castle  ;  but  1  bi'lievc  (hat  houses  are  niimnt,  as  in  a  similar  subject  from  Kouyun- 

jik  (see  2nd  Series  of  .Monuincnts  of  Nineveh,  Plate  M.),     It  is  evident  that  these 

supp<isefl  rock-lombs  cannot  tnchcatc  the  sepulchres  of  Ihe  Valley  of  Jeboshitpliai. 

which  are  of  a  very  differciU  periiKl,  nor,  as  the  same  writer  has  inferred,  tlie  city  of 

Jenisalem.     The  Jews,  aa  wi-li  as  other  nations  of  anlitjuiiy,  were,  however,  accus- 

.tomfd  to  make  such  riH^k-ehamhiT.'!  for  their  dead,  as  wc  loam  from  Isaiah,  xxii.  16 

[■"UTiat  hast  lliou  here  t  and  whom  baal  thou  here,  that  lliou  hast  hewed  thee  out  a 

[•epulchrc  here,  as  he  that  kactlh  him  ntt  a  tepuichre  on  high,  and  that  gravcth  an  hal>- 

titatioD  for  himself  m  a  rockl" 


Chap.  IX.] 


INSCRHPTIONS  AT  BaVIAN 


i7y 


with  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  was,  indeed,  almoet  covered  by  tho  mud 
deposit  of  the  flooiis.  Each  arched  reeess,  for  they  are  cut  into  the  rock, 
contains  a  figure  of  the  king,  as  at  the  Nahr-el-Kelb.  near  Beyrout  in  Syr- 
ia* o  feet  G  inches  high.  Above  his  head  are  tho  sacred  Byrabols,  ar- 
ranged in  four  distinct  groups.  The  first  group  consista  of  three  tiaras,  like 
those  worn  by  the  gods  and  human-headed  bulls,  and  of  a  kind  of  altar  on 
■which  stands  a  stall' ending  in  the  head  of  a  ram  ;  the  second  uf  a  cres- 
cent and  of  the  winged  disk,  or  globe  ;  the  third  of  a  pedestal,  on  which 
are  a  Indent  and  three  atafis,  one  topped  by  a  cone,  another  without  orna- 
ment, and  the  last  ending  in  two  bull's  heads  turned  in  opposite  directions ; 
and  the  fourth  of  a  Maltese  cross  (?  symlwlical  of  the  sun)  and  the  seven 
stars     Some  of  thcEe  sj-mbols  have  reference,  it  would  seem,  to  the  astral 


Saend  Sjrmbola  or  Royal  TubleU  (BaTtan). 

Worship  of  the  Assyrians  ;  whilst  others,  probably,  represent  instruments 
ti»<?d  during  sacrifices,  or  sacred  ceremonies. 

Across  three  of  ihe.se  royal  tablets  are  inscriptions.  One  can  be  reached 
from  the  foot  of  the  clifT,  the  others,  being  on  the  higher  scvilplurcs,  cannot 
be  seen  from  below  They  are  all  more  or  les-s  injured,  but  being  very 
nearly,  word  for  word,  the  same,  they  can  to  some  extent  be  restored.  I 
was  lowered  by  ropes  to  those  on  the  face  of  tho  precipice,  which  are  not 
otherwise  acce*siblc.  Standing  on  a  ledge  scarcely  si-X  inches  wide,  over- 
looking a  giddy  (lepth,  and  in  a  constrained  and  painful  po<<ition,  I  had 
some  difficulty  in  cupying  them,  The  stupidity  and  clumsiness,  moreover, 
of  the  Kurds,  who  had  never  aided  in  such  proceedings  before,  rendered  my 
attempts  to  reach  the  sculptures  somewhat  dangerous. 

The  inscriptions,  the  longest  of  which  ccntains  sixty-three  lines,  are  in 
many  rcgpects  of  considerable  importance,  and  have  been  partly  translated 
by  Dr  Hincks.     They  commence  with  an  invocation  to  Ashur  and  the 

•  I  examined  the  remarkable  tablets  at  the  Nahr-el-Kelb,  on  my  return  to  Europe 
in  1861.  Tliey  were  sculptured,  ua  I  stated  in  my  first  work,  by  .Sciinacherili,  the 
king  of  the  Bavian  monumrnts.  The  only  iri.si-riplion  |iartly  preserved  is  unfortu- 
nately so  much  injured  as  to  have  liithi'rto  dofini  transcription,  The  tablets  are  seven 
in  number,  and,  a.s  it  in  wi'll  known,  arc  cut  iipuii  a  rock  iitar  the  mouth  of  the  Nahr- 
el-Kelb  river,  adjoining  three  Egyptian  inscnptioiia  and  bas-reliefs  with  the  name  of 
llameses. 


leO  MNEVKM  AND  BABYLON.  [ChAP.  IX. 

great  deities  of  Assyria,  the  name«  of  only  elevea  of  whom  are  legible,  al- 
though probably  the  whole  thirleen  arc  enumerated,  as  on  the  monument! 
from  Mimroud.  Then  follow  the  name  and  titles  of  Seunacherib.  Next 
there  is  an  account  of  various  great  works  for  irrigation  undertaken  by  this 
king.  From  eighleeu  districts,  ur  villages,  he  declares  he  dug  eighteen 
canals  to  the  Ussur  ur  Khusur  (?),  in  which  he  collected  their  waters.  Ha 
also  dug  a  canal,  from  the  borders  of  the  town  or  district  of  Kisri  to  Nine- 
veh, and  brought  these  waters  through  it;  he  called  it  the  canal  of  Senna- 
cherib. No  traces  now  remain,  as  far  as  I  know,  of  such  a  canal,  unless 
the  bed  of  the  Khauser  (Ussur  ?}  was  deepened  by  this  king,  and  other  small 
streams  of  the  siirrounditig  country  led  into  it.  Then  the  Ussur  may  mean 
the  great  ditch  defending  the  inolosure  of  Kouyunjik  to  the  east,  through 
which  the  Khauser  now  Hows.  II"  such  bu  the  case,  the  canal,  fed  by  the 
united  streams,  may  liave  been  intended  for  defence  as  well  as  for  irriga- 
tion. Or  else  it  may  have  been  mainly  derived  from  the  Gomel  or  Cihazir, 
here  called  Ussur  {'.},  and  carried  to  some  other  part  of  the  great  city. 
We  can  then  understand  why  the  execution  of  this  work  was  recorded  on 
the  rock-tablets  near  the  source  of  the  river.  However,  this  part  of  the  in- 
scription has  not  yet  been  satisfactorily  interpreted,  and  may  herealler  be 
found  to  contain  details  which  may  help  to  identify  the  site  of  these  artifi- 
<"ial  water -courses. 

A  long  obscure  passage  precedes  a  very  detailed  account  of  the  expedi- 
tion to  Babylon  and  Kur-Duniyas  against  Merodacii  Baladan,  recorded  un- 
der the  first  year  of  the  annala  on  the  Kouyunjik  bulls.*  After  mention- 
ing some  canals  which  lie  hud  made  in  the  south  of  Assyria,  •:9ennacherib 
speaks  of  the  army  which  defended  the  workmen  being  attacked  by  the 
king  of  Elain  and  the  king  of  Babylon,  with  many  kings  of  the  hills  and 
the  plains  who  were  their  allies.  He  defeated  them  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Kahlul  (situ  undetermined).  Many  of  the  great  people  of  the  king  of 
Etarn  and  the  koii  of  the  king  of  Kar-Duniyas  were  either  killed  or  taken 
prisoners,  while  the  kiiig£  themselves  fled  to  their  respective  cuuutrias. 
Sennacherib  then  mentions  hie  advance  to  Babylon,  his  conquest  and  plun- 
der of  it,  and  concludes  with  saying,  that  he  brought  back  from  that  city 
the  images  of  the  gods  which  had  been  taken  by  Mcrodaih-atlaklic  (?), 
the  king  of  Mesopotamia,  from  Assyria  418  years  before,  and  put  them  in 
their  places.  A  name  imperfectly  deciphered  is  given  as  that  of  the  king 
of  Assyria  of  that  day.  Dr.  Hincks  would  read  it  Shimishti-Pal-Bilhkira, 
but  admits  lliat  the  lost  element  in  particular  is  very  doubtful.  The  same 
name  is  found  in  the  inscriptions  of  Nimroud,  as  that  of  a  predecessor  of 
the  builder  of  the  uorlh-west  palace,  as  also  in  an  inscription  of  the  time 
of  Tiglath  Tilesar  or  Pul.  In  this  place  the  earlier  king  is  probably  intend- 
ed. Sennacherib,  after  his  victory,  appears  to  have  transpurted  the  inhab- 
itants of  Babylon  to  Arakhti  (?  the  river  Araxes),  but  the  whole  passage  is 

»  Seep.  118, 


riUlllb 


Chap.  IX.  J 


SCnLPTOHM  AT  BAVUN. 


18J 


doubtful,  owing  to  some  important  words  being  destroyed  in  the  three  in- 
flcriptions. 

Alter  his  return  from  this  expedition  "  at  the  mouth  (?)  of  the  river  he 
had  dug  he  set  up  six  tablets,  and  beside  them  he  put  up  tlio/u//  length 
(?)  images  of  the  great  gods." 

Now,  the  importance  of  this  inscription,  presuming  it  to  be  correctly  in- 
terpreted, will  at  once  be  perceived,  for  it  proves  almost  beyond  a  doubt, 
that  at  that  remote  period  the  Assyrians  kept  an  exact  computation  of 
time.  We  may  consequently  hope  that  sooner  or  later  chronological  ta- 
bles may  be  discovered,  which  will  furnish  us  with  minute  aiiJ  accurate 
information  as  to  the  precise  e|)och  of  the  occurrence  of  various  important 
e%'ents  in  Assyrian  history.  It  is,  indeed,  remarkable  that  Sennacherib 
should  mark  so  exactly  the  year  of  the  carrying  away  of  the  Assyrian  gods. 
This  very  date  enables  us,  as  will  hereafter  be  seen,  to  restore  much  of  the 
chronology,  and  to  place,  almost  with  certaiuty,  in  the  dynastic  lists,  a  king 
whose  position  was  before  unknown. 

We  fmd  also  that  the  greater  part,  if  not  the  whole,  of  the  rock-sculp- 
tures were  executed  either  at  ttiu  end  of  the  first,  or  at  the  beginning  of 
the  second,  year  of  the  reign  of  Sennacherib.  As  ho  particularly  describe* 
■ix  tablets,  it  is  probable  that  the  others  were  added  at  some  future  period, 
and  after  some  fresh  victory.  The  mention,  too,  of  the  transportation  of 
the  inhabitants  of  Babylon  to  to  remote  a  locality  as  the  Araxcs  is  highly 
interesting,  and,  if  the  translation  of  the  passage  may  be  rched  on,  wo  may 
perhaps  trace  in  these  colonics  the  origin  oi  those  Chalda<an  tribes  which 
Xenophon  and  Strabo  describe  as  still,  in  their  time,  inhabiting  the  same 
region.  When  the  whole  inscription  is  restored  we  shall  probably  obtain 
many  other  important  details  which  are  wanting  in  the  annals  of  KouyuD- 
jik.  and  in  the  records  of  the  same  period. 

Beneath  the  sculptured  tablets,  and  in  the  bod  of  the  Gomel,  are  two 
enormous  fragments  of  rock,  which  ajipcar  to  have  been  torn  from  the  over- 
hanging clifi',  and  to  have  been  hurled  by  some  mighty  convuiaion  of  nature 
into  the  torrent  below.  The  pent  up  waters  eddy  round  them  in  deep  and 
dangerous  whirlpools,  and  when  swollen  by  the  winter  rains  sweep  com- 
pletely over  them*  They  still  bear  the  remains  of  sculpture.  One  has 
been  broken  by  the  fall  into  two  pieces.  On  them  is  the  Assyrian  Her- 
cules strangling  the  lion  between  two  winged  human-headed  bulls,  back  to 
back,  as  at  tlie  grand  entrances  of  the  palaces  of  Kuuyunjik  and  Khorsa- 
bad.t  Above  this  group  is  the  kin-r.  worshipping  between  two  deities,  who 
stand  on  mythic  animals,  having  the  heads  of  eagles,  the  bodies  and  fore 
feet  of  lions,  and  hind  legs  armed  with  the  talons  of  a  bird  of  prey.  The 
height  of  the  whole  sculpture  is  21  feet,  that  of  the  winged  bull  8  feet  6 
inches. 

•  It  was  .It  this  !r|)0l  Hat  Mr  Bf  II.  llip  ymilliful  artist  sent  out  by  Itie  'I'msUjea  o( 
llie  British  Museum,  waa  unfortunately  druwned  when  bathing,  in  the  month  of  July, 
185],  shortly  after  my  departure  from  Mosul.  f  See  woodcut,  p.  116. 


182 


NINBVER  AND  BAUYLON. 


[Chap.  IX. 


ei 


FiiUsn  Rock-SruliiluroM  (DnYtu). 


Near  the  entrance  to  the  ravine  the  face  of  the  dilThas  been  scraped  for 
some  yatJ«  lo  the  level  of  the  bed  of  the  torrent.  A  party  of  Kurds  were 
hired  to  excavate  at  this  spot,  as  well  as  in  olher  parts  of  tlie  narrow  val- 
ley. Eemains  and  foiiiidations  of  buildiiig^s  in  wel]-hewn  stone  wero  dis- 
covered under  the  thick  mud  deposited  by  the  Gomel  when  swollen  by 
Tains.  Higher  up  the  gorge,  on  removing  the  earth,  I  found  a  scries  of  bt- 
sins  cut  in  the  rock,  and  descending  in  steps  to  the  stream.  The  water  had 
ori«riiially  been  led  from  one  to  the  other  through  small  conduits,  the  lowest 
of  wliieh  was  ornamenled  at  its  mouth  with  two  rampant  lions  in  relief 
These  outlets  were  choked  up,  but  we  cleared  them,  and  by  pouring  water 
into  the  upper  basin  restored  the  fountain  aa  it  had  been  in  the  time  of  the 
Assyrians. 

From  the  nature  and  number  of  the  monuments  at  Bavian,  it  would  seem 
that  this  ravine  was  a  sacred  spot,  devoted  to  religious  ceremonies  and  to 
national  sacrifices.  When  the  buildings,  whose  remains  still  exist,  were 
used  for  those  purposes,  the  waters  must  have  been  pent  up  between  quays 
orcmbankinenls.  They  now  occasionally  spread  over  the  bottom  of  the  val- 
ley, leaving  no  pathway  at  the  foot  of  the  lofty  elllls.  The  remains  of  a 
well-built  raised  causeway  of  stone,  leading  to  Bavian  from  the  city  of 
Nincvoh,  may  still  be  traced  across  the  plain  to  the  east  of  the  Gebel  Mak< 
loub. 

The  ]"lace,  from  its  picturesque  beauty  and  its  eool  refreshing  shade  even 
in  the  hottest  day  of  summer,  is  a  grateful  retreat,  well  suited  to  devotion 
ami  to  holy  riles.     The  brawling  stream  almost  fills  the  bed  of  the  narrow 


Aanyrlui  FoitnUtn  (BaTian] 


ranne  with  ita  clear  and  limpid  watera.  The  beeltiiig  clifTs  rise  abniptl) 
on  each  side,  and  above  them  tower  the  ivwdod  dwlivities  of  the  Kurdith 
hills.  As  the  valley  opens  into  the  plain,  the  sides  ofthe  limestone  mouut- 
ains  are  broken  into  a  series  of  distinct  strata,  and  resemble  a  vast  flight 
of  steps  leading  up  to  the  hjfrh  lands  of  central  Asia.  The  banks  of  the 
torrent  are  clothed  with  shrubs  and  dwarf  trees,  amongst  which  are  the 
green  myrtle  and  the  gay  oleander,  bending  under  the  weight  of  its  rosy 
blossoms, 

I  remained  two  days  at  Bavian  to  copy  the  inscriptions,  and  to  explore 
the  Assyrian  remains.  Hannah  the  overseer,  with  a  party  of  poor  Nesto- 
rians,  who,  driven  by  want  from  the  district  of  Tkhoma,  chanced  to  pas* 
through  the  valley,  was  left  to  clear  away  the  earth  from  the  lower  monu- 
ments, and  to  excavate  amongst  the  ruins.  No  remains  were  discovered  ; 
and  after  working  for  a  few  days  without  results,  they  came  to  Mosul. 

Wishing  to  visit  the  Yezidi  chiefs,  I  took  the  road  to  Ain  Sit'ni,  passing 
through  two  large  Kurdish  villages,  Atnmh  and  Oui-eg-aukr,  and  leaving 
the  entrance  to  the  valley  of  Mheikh  Adi  to  the  right.  The  district  to  the 
north-west  of  Khinnis  is  partly  inhabited  by  a  tribe  j»rofessing  pcriiliar  re- 
ligious tenets,  and  known  by  the  name  of  Shabbak.  Although  strange  and 
roysterinus  rites  are,  as  usual,  attributed  to  them,  I  suspect  that  they  are 
simply  the  descendants  of  Kurds,  who  emigrated  at  some  distant  period  from 
the  PerGian  slopes  of  the  mountains,  and  who  still  profess  Shccitc  doctrinea. 


184 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  IX. 


They  may,  however,  be  tainted  with  Aii-Ilkhism.*     Their  chief,  with 
whom  I  was  acquainted,  resides  near  Mosul. 

Wc  passed  the  night  iti  the  village  ofEssecyah,  where  Sheikh  Nasrhad 
recently  built  a  dwelling-house.  1  occupied  the  same  room  with  the  Sheikh, 
Hussein  Bey.  and  a  large  bo<ly  of  Yezidi  Cawals,  and  was  lulled  to  sleep 
by  an  interminable  tale,  about  the  prophet  Mohauinied  and  a  stork,  which, 
when  we  had  all  lain  down  to  rest,  a  Yezidi  priest  related  with  the  same 
(wiporific  eflect  upon  the  whole  party.  On  the  following  day  I  hunted  pa- 
xelk-g  with  Hussein  Bey,  and  was  his  guest  for  the  night  at  Baadri,  return- 
ing next  morning  to  Mosul. 

•  A  creed  profes.setl  hy  sfvoral  tribes  in  Kurdistan  and  LoTirislan.  and  by  some  of 
the  inliabitants  of  the  nnrthrni  part  of  the  Lebanon  range  ui  Syria.  It  consists  main- 
ly in  the  bcloof,  that  there  have  been  successive  incarnation.s  of  the  Deity,  tlie  pnn- 
cipal  having  been  in  the  person  of  All,  the  (wMnattd  s<in-in-law  of  the  pruphtt  Mo- 
liamnicd.  Tlie  name  usually  given  ihcm,  Alt-Illuhi,  means  "believers  that  Ah  u 
tiod."  Various  abommable  rites  have  been  attributed  to  them,  as  to  the  Yezidis,  .\n- 
•yris.  and  all  seets  whose  doctrines  are  nut  known  lo  the  surrounding  Muasulman  ur 
Christian  populatiuit 


lluaMIn  Uejr,  Ibe  I'tiuif  dI  llir  Vrxwli*,  ind  hin  Flruitier 


The  mound  of  Kalah  Sherghat  having  been  very  imperfectly  examined 
during  my  former  residence  in  Assyria,*  I  had  made  arrangemeiils  to  re- 
turn to  the  niiris.  All  my  preparations  were  eomplctu  by  the  22ud  of 
February,  and  I  floated  down  the  Tigris  on  a  raft  laden  with  provision* 
and  tools  necessary  for  at  least  a  month's  residence  and  work  in  the  desert. 
I  had  ex]>ected  to  find  Mohammed  Seyyid,  one  of  my  Jcbour  Sheikhs,  with 
a  party  of  the  Ajel,  his  own  particular  tribe,  ready  to  aci^ompany  me.  The 
Bedouins,  however,  were  moving  to  the  north,  and  their  horsemen  had  al- 
ready been  seen  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Kalah  Sherghat.  Nothing  would 
consequently  induce  the  Ajel,  who  were  not  on  the  be.st  terms  with  the 
Shammar  Arabs,  to  leave  their  tents,  and,  after  much  useless  discussion,  ] 
was  obliged  to  give  up  the  journey. 

Awad,  with  a  party  of  Jehesh,  had  been  for  ne.irly  six  weeks  exploring 
the  mounds  in  the  plain  of  Shomamok,  the  country  of  the  Tai  Arabs,  and 
had  sent  to  toll  me  that  he  had  found  remains  of  buildings,  vases,  and  in- 
scribed bricks.  I  determined,  therofore,  to  make  use  of  the  stores  collected 
for  the  Kalah-Sherghat  expedition  by  spending  a  few  days  in  mspecting  hii 
excavations,  and  in  carefully  exatnining  those  ruins  which  I  had  onty  hast- 
■  Nineveh  and  its  Ilemuiiis,  vol.  ii.  chap  13 


186 


NINBTEH  AND  BABTLON. 


[Chap.  X. 


ily  visited  on  my  previous  journey.  I  accordingly  started  from  Niniroud 
on  the  2tid  oC  March,  accopipaiiied  by  Hormuzd.  the  doctor,  and  Mr.  Hol- 
land. Wf  di--scendcd  the  Tin;ii3  to  its  junction  with  the  Zab,  whose  water*, 
swollen  by  the  melliiig  ol'  the  snows  in  the  Kurdish  uiouutaiiis,  were  no 
longer  fordable.  Nenr  the  coufluenee  ol'the  streams,  and  on  the  soutiiem 
bank  of  the  Z»b,  is  the  lofty  mound  of  Keshuf.  This  artificial  platlorm  of 
earth  and  unbaked  bricks  rests  upon  a  litiieglone  rock,  projecting  abruptly 
frtmi  the  soil,  lis  sutiiniit  is  crowned  liy  a  sloue  wall,  with  an  arched  gate- 
way facing  the  south — ihe  remaius  of  a  deserted  fort,  commanding  the  two 
rivers.  It  was  garrisoned  a  few  years  ago  by  an  officer  and  a  company  of 
irregular  troops  froui  Baghdad,  who  were  able  from  this  stronghold  to  check 
the  inroads  of  the  Bedounis,  us  well  as  of  the  Tai  and  other  tribes,  who 
plundered  the  Mosul  villages.  Since  it  has  been  abati<li)ned,  the  country 
has  again  been  exjMised  to  the  incursions  of  these  marauders,  who  now  croH 
the  rivers  utKnoleeted,  and  lay  waste  the  cuhivateil  districts.  I  could  find 
no  relics  of  an  early  date,  nor  did  subsequeut  excavations  lead  to  their  dis- 
cover)'. The  mound  is,  nevertheless,  most  probably  of  Assyrian  origin. 
From  the  teniolcst  period  the  iitipurtance  of  tiie  posiiion,  at  the  cunflueac* 
of  two  great  rivers,  must  have  led  to  the  erection  of  a  castle  on  this  spot. 
The  tents  of  the  Howar  were  about  five  miles  Irom  Kcshaf.  Since  my 
last  visit,  he  had  received  his  cloak  of  investiture  as  t^heikh  from  the  Pasha 
*  ofKerkonk,*  and  was  once  mure  the  aeknowieifjred  chief  of  the  Tai.  Faras 
had,  however,  withdrawn  from  his  rival,  Ajhlollowed  by  his  own  adher- 
ents, had  moved  to  the  banks  of  the  Lesser^R.  The  SHammar  Bedouins, 
encouraged  by  the  division  in  the  tribe,  had,  only  three  days  before  our 
visit,  crossed  the  Tigris  and  fallen  suddenly  upon  the  Kocliers,  or  Kurdish 
wanderers,  of  the  lierki  clans.  These  nomades  descend  annually  froru  the 
highest  mountain  regions  to  winter  in  the  rich  meadows  of  l^homainoL 
They  pay  a  small  tribute  to  the  Tai  ibr  permission  to  pasture  their  flocki, 
and  for  protection  against  the  desert  Arabs,  The  Howar  was  cttiiscquenlly 
bound  to  (k'feud  them,  and  had  sent  Saluh,  with  his  horsemen,  to  meet  the 
Sliattimar.  They  had  been  beaten,  and  had  lost  forty  of  their  finest  mores. 
The  Kurds  appear  to  have  little  courage  when  attacked  by  the  Bedouiru 
in  the  plains,  although  ihcy  can  opfiose  the  ride  to  the  simple  spear.  A 
large  number  of  them  had  been  slain,  and  several  thousand  of  their  sheep 
and  cattle  had  been  driven  across  the  Tigris. 

We  found  the  Howar  much  cast  down  and  vexed  by  his  recent  misfoi^ 
tunes.     The  chiefs  of  the  tribe  were  with  him,  in  gloomy  consultation  over 

•  Tlie  (jreat  paslialjc  of  Uaghdad,  formerly  one  of  llie  most  imfMTtant  and  wealthy 
in  Ihc  Turkibh  empire,  and  ihc  first  in  rank,  hint  recently  been  divyled  into  wivenU 
distinct  governtnenls.  It  once  oxienJed  from  Diarbekt  lo  the  Persian  Gulf,  and 
was  first  eurtailcd  about  fifteen  years  ugu,  when  Diarliekr  iuui  Mosul  were  [ibeed  un- 
der inilejtenilenl  pactia.s.  Lately  it  has  been  reduced  to  ibe  di.'ilrirls  stirroiinilmg  the 
city,  with  ilir  Aral)  inbes  who  encam[)  in  Hie  neiptibonrhiiod ;  Kerkoiik,  Suleimani- 
yah,  and  Husrab  Ireing  formed  into  separate  gnvcmraenls.  In  this  new  division  the 
Tai  were  Included  within  the  pashalic  of  Kerkoulc. 


Chap.  X.] 


TBNT8  OF  THE  BOWaB. 


187 


their  losses.  A  Bedouin,  wrapped  in  his  ragged  cloak,  was  seated  lislleialy 
in  tlie  tent.  He  had  beeu  ray  (.'iiettt  the  previui^  evening  at  Niniroud,  and 
had  announced  hiiniieli  un  a  missum  I'ruin  thu  Slianiiiiur  to  the  Tai,  to  learn 
the  breed  oi'  the  mares  whieh  had  beeu  taken  in  the  late  coaUict.  His 
message  niiglit  apjiear,  to  those  ignorant  ol°  the  cuetuiiis  of  the  Arabs,  one 
of  insult  and  defiance.  But  he  was  on  a  common  errand,  and  although 
there  was  blood  between  the  tribes,  his  ]>erson  was  as  sacred  as  that  oi'an 
ambassador  in  any  civilised  euiiiiiiunily.  Whenever  a  horse  falU  into  the 
hands  of  an  Arab,  his  tirst  thought  is  how  to  ascertain  its  descent.  If  the 
owner  be  dismounted  ia  battle,  or  it' he  be  even  about  to  receive  his  death- 
blow from  the  spear  of  his  enemy,  he  will  frequently  exclaim,  "0  Fellan ! 
(such  a  one)  the  mare  that  fate  has  given  to  you  is  of  noble  blood.  She 
is  of  the  breed  of  Sakluwiyah.  and  her  dam  is  ridden  by  Awaitii.  a  sheikh 
of  the  Fedhan"  (or  as  the  case  may  be).  Nor  will  a  lie  come  from  the 
mouth  of  a  Bedouin  as  to  the  race  of  his  mare.  He  is  proud  of  her  noble 
qualities,  and  will  testify  to  them  as  he  dies.  After  a  b&ttlu  or  a  foray, 
the  tribes  who  have  taken  horses  from  the  enemy  will  send  an  envoy  to 
ask  their  breed,  aud  a  person  so  chosen  passes  from  tent  to  lent  unharmed, 
hearing  from  each  rnan,  as  he  vals  his  bread,  the  descent  and  qualities  of 
the  animal  he  may  have  lost. 

Amongst  men  who  attach  the  highest  value  1o  the  pure  blood  of  their 
horses,  and  who  have  no  written  pedigree,  for  amongst  the  Bedouins  docu- 
ments ofttiis  kind  do  not  exist,  such  customs  arc  necessary.  The  descent 
of  A  horaa  is  preserved  by  tra<liliuii,  and  the  birth  of  a  colt  ia  an  event 
known  tolhe  whole  tribe.  11'  a  townsman  or  stranger  buy  a  horse,  and  is 
desirous  of  having  written  evidence  of  its  race,  the  seller,  with  his  friends, 
will  come  to  the  nearest  town  to  testify  before  a  person  specially  qualified 
to  take  the  evidence,  called  "  the  cadi  of  the  horses,"  who  makes  out  a 
written  pedigree,  accompanied  by  various  prayers  and  formularies  from  the 
Koran  used  on  such  occasions,  and  then  allixcs  to  it  his  »eal.  it  wouUl  be 
considered  disgraceful  to  the  character  of  a  true  Bedouin  to  give  false 
testimony  on  ouch  an  occasion,  and  his  word  is  usually  received  with  im- 
plicit confidence. 

The  moniiiig  Ibllowing  our  arrival  at  the  tents  of  the  Howar  was  ush- 
ered in  by  a  heavj'  rain.  I  thought  this  a.  good  opporlunily  of  visiting  the 
ruins  of  Mokhamour,  as  the  Bedouins  rarely  leave  tiieir  tents  on  plundering 
expeditions  in  wot  weather.  None  of  the  'J'ai,  however,  would  accotnpa- 
oy  me.  They  still  dreaded  the  tShammar,  and  the  Howar  loudly  protested 
against  the  rashness  of  venturing  alono  into  the  plains  so  recently  overrun 
by  the  enemy,  Awad  professed  to  know  the  road,  and  accoini)anied  by 
Hormuzd  and  Mr.  R.,  1  strui^k  across  the  low  hills  under  his  guidance. 

These  ruins,  of  which  I  had  So  frequently  received  exaggerated  descrip- 
tioos  from  the  Arabs,  nre  ru  the  desi-rleil  district  belwoeu  the  Karachok 
range  and  the  river  Tigris.  The  plains  in  which  they  are  eitttatf-d  are 
celebrated  for  the  richness  of  their  pastures,  aud  are  sought  iu  spring  by 


188 


NINETBH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chaf.  X. 


the  Tai  and  the  Kurkish  Koohers.  Even  u  early  u  the  time  of  our  vicit 
the  face  ol'  Ihe  country  is  usually  covered  with  thoir  flocks  and  herds.  But . 
the  dread  of  ihc  Shammar  had  uow  scared  Ihcm  from  the  banks  of  tha  J 
river,  and  they  had  migrated  to  the  inland  meadows,  further  removed  from 
the  forays  of  the  Bedouins.  From  the  tents  of  Howar,  on  the  low  uadup 
lating  hills  forming  the  northern  spur  of  the  Karaehok,  to  Mokhacnour,  a 
distance  of  some  fifteen  miles,  we  did  not  sec  a  single  human  being. 

We  kept  as  much  as  possible  in  the  broken  country  at  the  foot  of  the ' 
mountain  to  escape  observation.  The  wooded  banks  of  the  Tigris  and  the 
white  dome  of  the  tomb  of  Hiihati  Abdalluli  were  faintly  viisible  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  a  few  artificial  mounds  rose  in  tlie  jilains.  The  postures  were 
already  fit  for  the  flocks,  and  luxuriant  grass  furnished  food  lor  our  hones 
amidst  (he  ruins. 

The  principal  mound  ofMokhamour  is  of  considerable  height,  and  ends 
in  a  cone.  It  is  apparently  the  remains  of  a  platform  built  of  earth  and 
sun-dried  bricks,  originally  divided  into  several  distinct  stages  or  terraces. 
On  one  side  are  the  traces  of  an  inclined  ascent,  or  of  a  flight  of  steps, 
once  leading  to  the  summit.  It  stands  in  the  centre  of  a  quadrangle  of 
lower  mounds,  about  480  paces  square,  1  could  find  no  remains  of  ma- 
•onry,  nor  any  fragments  of  inscribed  bricks,  pottery,  or  sculptured  alabaster. 

The  ruins  are  near  the  southern  spur  of  Karaehok,  where  that  mount- 
ain, aAer  falling  suddenly  into  low  broken  hills,  again  rises  into  a  solitary 
ridge,  called  Bismar,  stretching  to  the  Lesser  Zub,  Mokhamour  being  be- 
tween the  two  rivers.  These  detached  limestone  ridges,  running  parallel 
to  the  great  range  of  &urdiatau,  such  ns  the  Miikloub,  ISinjar,  Karaehok, 
and  Hamrin,  are  a  peculiar  j'eature  in  the  geological  structure  of  the  couu- 
try  lying  between  the  ancient  province  of  Cilicia  and  the  Persian  Qul(. 
Hog-backed  in  form,  they  have  an  even  and  smooth  outline  when  viewed 
from  a  distance,  but  are  really  roeky  and  rugged,  Their  sides  arc  broken 
into  innumerable  ravines,  producing  a  variety  of  purple  shadows,  evei 
changing  and  contrasting  with  the  rich  goldcu  tint  of  the  limestone,  and 
rendering  these  solitary  hills,  whea  swn  from  the  plain,  objectsof  great  in- 
terest and  boiiuly.*  They  are,  for  the  most  part,  but  scantily  wooded  with 
a  dwarf  oak,  and  that  oiily  on  the  eastern  slope  ;  their  rocky  sides  are  gen- 
erally, oven  in  spring,  naked  and  bare  ol  all  vegetation.  Few  springs  of 
fresh  water  being  found  in  them,  they  are  but  thinly  inhabited.  In  the 
spring  months,  when  the  rain  has  supplied  natural  regen,'oirs  in  the  ra- 
x\nn>  A  few  wandering  Kurdish  tribes  pilch  their  tents  in  the  most  shelter- 
«4  SI*''* 

<  I  ui<>  (liw  u|)|Hirtiinity  of  incntiotiing,  wilh  the  praiAC  it  moat  fully  drscrves  as 
^^ffi^ttttX^  th<"  Pnniuiuna  of  Nimroud,  painttrj  and  exhibited  by  Mr.  Burfonl,  in 
KUMW^olk  ami  Miiklinih  are  introduced.     Thr  lints  produced  by  the  set- 
H^^i^nv  ^\\la  im'  nio.m  taiililully  portrayed,  and  (be  whole  scene,  consider- 
n  vtlioli  Ibe  artist  worked,  is  a  proof  of  his  skill  as  a  painter, 
t*r  teMm  aoenery. 


di 


m 


Chap.  X] 


RDTNS  OF  aBOiUitOK. 


16» 


Having  examined  the  ruins,  Uken  bearings  of  the  principal  landmarkB, 
and  allowed  our  horses  to  refresh  themgelves  in  the  high  graee,  I  returned 
to  the  eucaiupment  of  the  Tai.  As  we  rode  back  we  spied  iu  the  desert 
three  horses,  which  hud  buen  probably  Icfl  by  the  Bedouins  in  their  retreat, 
and  were  now  quietly  grazing  in  the  pastures.  After  many  vain  ciTorts 
we  succeeded  in  driving  them  before  us,  and  on  our  arrival  at  the  tents  J 
presented  them  in  due  form  to  the  Howar,  who  was  rewarded,  by  this  un- 
expected addition  to  his  stud,  for  the  alarm  he  declared  he  had  fell  for  our 
safety  duriug  our  absence.  A  ride  of  three  hours  next  morning,  across  the 
spurs  of  the  Karachok,  brought  us  to  the  ruins  of  Abou-Jerdeh,  near  which 
we  had  found  the  tents  of  Faras  on  our  last  visit.  The  mound  is  of  ooo- 
siderable  size,  and  on  its  summit  are  traces  of  foundations  in  stone  mason- 
ry;  but  I  could  lind  no  remains  to  connect  it  with  the  Assyrian  period. 
The  eastern  base  is  washed  by  a  small  stream  coming  from  the  Kordereh. 

Wo  breakfasted  with  our  old  host  WaU  Beg,  and  then  continued  our 
journey  to  one  of  the  principal  artificial  mounds  of  Shomamok,  called  the 
"  Kasr."  or  palace.  The  pastures  were  covered  with  the  flocks  of  the 
Arabs,  the  Kochcrs,  and  the  Disdayi  Kurds.  A  broad  and  deep  valley,  or 
rather  gully,  worn  by  a  sluggish  stream  in  the  alluvial  soil,  croues  the 
plain.  The  stranger  is  not  aware  of  its  existence  until  he  finds  himself 
actually  on  the  brink  of  the  lofty  precipices  which  hem  it  in  on  both  sides 
Then  a  long,  narrow  meadow  of  the  brightest  emerald  green,  studded  with 
flocks  and  tents,  opens  beneath  his  feet.  We  crossed  this  valley,  called 
the  Kordereh,  and  encamped  for  the  night  at  the  foot  of  the  Kasr,  on  the 
banks  of  a  rivulet  called  As-surayji,  which  joins  the  Kordereh  below  Abou- 
Jordeh,  near  a  village  named  "  Salam  Aleik,"  or  "  Peace  be  with  you." 

The  mound  is  both  large  and  lofty,  and  is  surrounded  by  the  remains  of 
an  earthen  embankment.  It  is  divided  almost  into  two  distinct  equal 
parts  by  a  ravine  or  watercourse,  where  an  ascent  probably  once  led  from 
the  plain  to  the  edifice  on  the  summit  of  tliu  platform.  Above  the  ruins 
of  the  ancient  buildings  stood  a  modern  fort,  generally  garrisoned  by  troopt. 
belonging  to  the  Mutesellim  of  Arbil.  It  was  afterwards  inhabited  by 
some  families  of  the  Jehcsh  tribe,  who  were  driven  away  by  the  cxuclion* 
of  the  chiefs  of  the  Tai.  Awad  had  opened  several  deep  trenches  ami 
tunnels  in  the  mound,  and  had  discovered  chambers,  some  with  walls  of 
plain  sun-dried  bricks,  others  panelled  round  the  lower  part  with  slabs  of 
reddish  limestone,  about  3j  or  4  feet  high.  He  had  also  found  inscribed 
bricks,  with  inscriptions  declaring  that  iSennacherib  had  hcru  built  a  city,  or 

rather  palace,  for  the  name  of  which,  written  tSf —  ""^^"jl  cannot  sug- 
gest a  reading. 

I  observed  a  thin  deposit,  or  layer,  of  pebbles  and  rubble  above  the  re- 
mains of  the  Assyrian  building,  ami  about  eight  feet  beneath  the  surface, 
■a  at  Kouyunjik.  It  may  probably  have  been  the  flooring  or  foundation  of 
■ome  edifiee  of  a  more  recent  dale  raised  above  the  buried  palaces.     I 


190 


NINXTEH  AND  DAUYLON. 


ICUAT.  X. 


could  discover  no  traces  whatever  of  alabaster  in  the  ruins,  although  the 
itiatLTJul  is  common  in  the  rit-iphijorhood,  nor  could  I  find  the  smallest 
fragment  of  sctiljitureJ  stone  which  might  encourage  a  further  search  after 
baa-relicfs  or  inscriptions. 

From  the  summit  of  the  Kasr  of  Shomamok  I  took  bearings  of  twenty- 
five  considerable  mounds,  the  remains  of  ancient  Assyrian  population  ;• 
the  largest  being  in  the  direction  of  the  Lesser  Zab.  Over  the  plain,  too, 
were  thickly  scattered  villages,  surrounded  by  cultivated  fields,  and  beloug- 
ing  to  a  tribe  of  Kurds  called  Disdayi,  who  move  with  their  flocks  and 
tents  to  the  pastures  dttring  spring,  and  return  to  their  huts  in  the  sutnmer 
to  gather  in  the  harvest  and  to  till  the  soil. 

Wishing  to  examine  several  ruins  in  the  neighbourhood,  1  left  our  tents 
early  on  the  following  morning,  and  rode  to  the  mound  of  Abd-ul-Azeez, 
about  eight  or  nine  mites  distant,  and  on  the  road  between  Baghdad  and 
Arbil.  The  latter  town,  with  its  castle  perched  upon  a  lofty  artificial 
moiaiiti,  all  that  remains  of  llio  ancient  city  of  Arbela,  which  gave  its  name 
to  one  of  the  greatest  battles  the  world  ever  saw,  was  visible  during  the 
greater  part  of  our  day's  ride.  The  plain  abDunds  in  villages  and  canals 
lor  irrigation,  supplied  by  the  As-Surayji.  When  tho  land  is  loo  high  to 
bo  watered  by  the  usual  open  coiuliiit«,  the  villagers  cut  subterranean  pas- 
sages like  tho  Persian  JiaudttAs,  which  are  frequently  at  a  considerable 
depth  under  ground,  and  arc  open  to  the  air  at  certain  regular  distances 
by  shafts  sunk  from  above.  Tho  soil  thus  irrigated  produces  cotton,  rice, 
tobacco,  millet,  melons,  cucumbers,  and  a  few  vegetables.  The  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  Tai  Sheikh  ends  at  the  Kasr  ;  the  villages  l)eyond  are  under  the 
immediate  control  of  the  governor  of  Arbil,  to  whom  they  pay  their  taxes. 
The  iiiliahilants  complained  loudly  of  oppression,  and  appeared  to  be  an 
active,  industrious  race.  Upon  tho  banks  of  the  Lessor  Zab,  below  Altun 
Kupri  {or  Uuntera,  tho  "  Bridge,"  as  the  Arabs  call  the  place),  encamp  the 
Arab  tribe  of  Ahou-Harndan,  renowned  for  the  beauty  of  its  women. 

The  mounds  I  examined,  and  particularly  that  of  Abd-ul-Azccz,  abound 
in  sepulchral  urns  and  in  ]iotlery,  apparently  not  Assyrian. 

The  most  remarkable  spot  in  the  district  of  Shomamok  is  the  Clla  (an 
Arab  corrnplion  of  Kalali),  or  the  Castle,  about  two  miles  distant  from  the 
Kasr.  It  is  a  natural  elevation,  left  by  the  stream  of  tho  Kordereh,  which 
has  worn  a  deep  chantiel  in  the  soil,  and  dividing  itself  at  this  place  into 
two  branches  forms  an  island,  whose  summit,  but  little  increased  by  arti- 
ficiial  mcuns,  is  therefore,  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  opposite' 
mMtpicM.  Tho  valley  may  be  in  some  places  about  a  mile  wide,  in  othen 
mIv  Atur  or  five  hundred  yards,  The  Gla  is  consequently  a  natural  strong- 
luM.  aK>vo  one  hundred  feet  high,  furnished  on  all  sides  with  outworks, 
tlic  artilieiul  enibimkments  of  a  modern  citadel.  A  few  isolated 
M«t  it  have  iho  appearance  of  detached  forts,  and  nature  seems 

■<■  Vk«  ^il***  ^  i'»«"  |>riiici)>nl  »re  Tel-el-Darour.  Abbas,  Karfrreynh,  .Vbd-iil-Azeex, 
KilM  Tuppt-h.  I'urklieena,  ami  Doghan 


Chap.  X.] 


KtriTTS  OF  SRriMAMOK 


101 


lo  have  formed  a  complete  Eystem  of  fortification      I  have  rarely  seen  a 
more  curious  jilacc. 

TherL'  ore  no  remains  of  modern  liitbilalions  on  the  summit  of  the  Gla, 
which  can  only  be  aecended  without  difficulty  from  one  side.     Awad  ex- 


\ 


AWail,  Sbeikh  of  tlie  Jclimh 

caraled  by  my  directions  m  llie  mnuntl.  and  discovered  traces  of  Assyrian 
buildings,  and  several  inscribi-rl  bricks,  bcaniig  the  name  of  Sennacherib, 

and  of  a  castle  or  palace,  JiT  4^,  which,  like  that  on  the  bricks  from  the 

Kasr,  I  am  unable  to  interpret.  It  is  hif^hly  yjrobablo  that  a  natural  strong- 
hold, so  difficult  of  access,  almost  impregnable  beinre  the  use  of  artillery. 
should  have  been  chosen  at  a  very  early  period  for  the  site  of  a  castle  Even 
at  this  day  it  might.become  a  position  of  some  importance,  especially  as  a 
check  ujwn  the  Arabs  and  Kurds,  who  occasionally  lay  waste  these  rich 
districts  Numerous  valleys,  worn  by  the  lorrenti^  descending  from  the 
Karacbok  hills,  open  into  the  Kordoreh  They  have  all  the  same  character, 
deep  gulleys,  rarely  more  than  half  a  mile  in  widlli,  confined  between  lofty 
perpendicular  banks,  and  watered  during  summer  by  small  sluggish  rivu- 
lets. These  sheltered  spots  furnish  the  best  pastures,  and  are  frequented 
by  the  Disdayi  Kurds,  whose  flocks  were  already  scattered  far  and  wide 
oter  their  green  meadows. 

From  the  Ola  I  crossed  the  plain  to  the  mount  of  Abou-Shcetha,  in 
which  Awad  had  excavated  for  some  time  without  making  any  discovery 
of  interest.  Near  this  ruin,  perhaps  al  its  very  foot,  must  hiivo  taken  place 
an  event  which  led  to  one  of  the  most  celebrated  episodes  of  ancient  his- 
tory.    Here  were  treacherously  seized  Clearchus,  Proxenus,  Menon,  Agia.^. 


•ii 


1S8 


mNBTEB  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  X. 


and  Socrates ;  and  Xunoptioii,  elected  to  tho  command  of  the  Greek  auxil- 
iaries, commenced  the  ever-memorable  retreat  of  the  Ten  Thousand.  The 
camp  of  Tissaphcrncs,  dappled  with  its  many-colored  tents,  and  glittering 
with  golden  arm«  and  silken  standards,  the  gorgeous  display  of  Persian 
pomp,  probably  stood  on  the  Kordereh,  between  Abou-tshectha  and  tho 
Kasr.  Tho  Greeks  having  taken  the  lower  road,  to  the  west  of  the  Kar- 
■chok  range,  through  a  plain  even  then  as  now  a  desert.*  turned  to  the 
cast,  and  crossed  the  spur  of  the  mountain,  where  we  had  recently  seen  the 
Uii>t«  of  the  Howar,  in  order  to  roach  the  fords  of  the  Zab.  I  have  alreadj 
|>ointed  out  the  probability  of  their  having  forded  that  river  above  the 
junction  of  the  Ghazir.t  and  to  this  day  the  ford  to  the  east  of  Aboa- 
Shectha  is  the  best,  and  that  usually  frequented  by  the  Arabs.  Still  not 
op«nly  molested  by  the  Persians,  the  Greeks  halted  for  three  days  on  the 
banks  of  tho  stream,  aud  Clcarchus,  to  put  an  end  to  the  jealousies  which 
had  broken  out  between  the  two  armies,  sought  an  interview  with  the 
Persian  chief.  The  crafty  Eastern,  knowing  no  policy  but  that  to  which 
the  descendanle  of  his  race  are  ettll  true,  inveigled  tho  Greek  commanded 
into  his  power,  aud  having  seized  them  sent  them  in  chains  to  the  Persian 
monarch,  He  then  put  to  death  many  of  their  bravest  companions  and 
soldiers,  who  had  accompanied  their  chiefs.  The  efiect  which  this  perfid- 
ious act  had  on  the  Greek  troops,  surrounded  by  powerful  enemies,  wan- 
dering in  tho  midst  of  an  unknown  and  hostile  country,  betrayed  by  those 
they  had  come  so  far  to  serve,  and  separated  from  their  native  land  by  im- 
passable  rivers,  waterless  deserts,  and  inaccessible  mountains,  without  even 
a  guide  to  direct  their  steps,  is  touchingly  described  by  the  great  leader 
and  historian  of  their  retreat :  *'  Few  ate  anything  that  evening,  few  made 
diet,  and  many  that  night  never  came  to  their  quarters,  but  laid  them- 
Mlvet  down,  every  man  m  ihe  place  where  he  happened  to  be,  unable  to 
sloop  through  sorrow  and  longing  for  their  country,  their  parents,  their 
wives,  antl  childreti,  whom  they  never  expected  to  see  again."  But  there 
was  one  iu  the  army  who  was  equal  to  tho  diflicultics  which  cncompasMd 
them,  and  who  had  resolved  tu  encourage  his  hopelrss  countrymen  to  make 
one  great  cifurt  for  their  liberty  and  their  lives.  Before  the  break  of  day, 
Xonophnn  had  formed  his  plans.  Dressed  in  the  most  beautiful  armour 
h«(  could  iiiid,  *'  for  he  thought  if  the  gods  granted  him  victory  these  orna- 
iiKMits  would  become  a  contiiieror,  and  if  he  were  to  die  they  would  deco- 
TnUi  his  fall,"  he  harangued  tho  desponding  Greeks,  and  showed  them  how 

•  Aimli  li.  ii.  C.4  It  is  remarkalile  that  Xenophon  does  not  nieiUinn  the  I.«9«er 
/sli,  wliii'li  li"  croMsed  near  its  junction  with  the  Tigris.  The  Greeks  must  have 
Inlliiwi'il  IliK  roail  iiulk-utcd  in  Itic  text,  and  not  (hat  tn  the  ea>l  of  the  Karachok,  now 
IliK  tiiijhwny  Iji'lwern  ibe  two  rivers,  as  Xenophon  partieiilarly  nieiititms  ihut  the  Ti- 
Kria  wnn  on  liiv  It'll,  tiiui  lh;U  be  saw,  at  the  end  of  the  first  day's  journey,  on  ita  op- 
|NMiit«  Uiitik,  11  fiuiHidcruble  city  named  CicniE,  wbicli  must  he  identified  with  Kalab- 
HhiTiliiit,  tt»  lliori'  nrp  iii>  other  ruins  to  mark  the  sire  of  a  large  place,  and  no  open 
giwind  liclow  it  iiixni  which  one  could  tmvo  stcwjd.  The  distance  of  twenty  parasangs. 
iir  fl»e  Usys'  juuntey,  agrees  very  accurately  with  this  mule.  t  See  p,  51. 


Cbap.  X.| 


l(0P80N*S  1 


193 


Ktii 


alone  they  could  again  see  their  homes.  His  eloquence  and  courage  gave 
them  new  lile.  Having  made  their  vows  to  the  eternal  gods,  and  singing 
paani,  they  burnt  their  carriages,  tents,  and  superfluous  baggage,  and  pre- 
pared for  the  last  great  struggle.  The  sun  must  have  riaen  in  burning 
splendor  over  the  parched  and  yellow  plains  of  Shomamok,  for  it  wag  early 
in  the  autumn.  The  world  has  rarely  seen  a  more  glorious  sight  than 
was  witnessed  on  the  banks  of  the  Zab  on  that  memorable  morning.  The 
Ten  Thousand,  having  eaten,  were  permitted  by  the  enemy,  who  were 
probably  unprepared  for  this  earnest  registancc,  to  ford  the  river.  Reach- 
ing the  opposite  bank  they  commenced  that  series  of  marches,  directed  with 
a  skill  and  energy  unequalled,  which  led  them  through  difficulties  almost 
insurmountable  to  their  native  shores. 

NearAbou-Sheelha,  too,  Darius,  a  fugitive,  urged  his  flying  horses  through 
the  Zab,  followed  by  the  scattered  remnants  of  an  army  which  numbered 
in  its  ranks  men  of  almost  every  race  and  clime  of  Asia.  A  few  hours  after, 
the  Macedonian  plunged  into  the  ford  in  pursuit  of  the  fallen  monarch,  at 
the  head  of  those  invincible  legions  which  he  was  to  lead,  without  almost 
a  second  check,  to  the  banks  of  the  Indus.  The  plains  which  stretch  from 
the  Zab  below  Abou-Sheetha  have  since  been  more  than  once  the  battle- 
field ofEiin>pe  and  Asia. 

I  gazed  with  deep  interest  upon  the  scene  of  such  great  events — a  plain, 
where  nothing  remains  to  tell  of  the  vast  armies  which  rnce  moved  across 
(t,of  European  valour,  or  of  Eastern  magniiicence. 

We  had  expected  to  find  a  raft  ready  for  us  near  Abou-Shcetha.  The 
men,  however,  having  choson  a  more  convenieut  place  nearer  Negoub, 
we  had  to  follow  the  windings  of  the  river  for  some  miles,  crossing  the  mouth 
of  theKordereh,  which  joins  it  five  or  six  miles  below  Abou-Shectha.  Whilst 
riding  through  the  jungle  a  wolf  rose  before  me  from  its  liiir,  and  ran  to- 
wards the  plain.  Following  the  animal,  I  wounded  it  with  one  barrel  of 
my  pistol,  and  was  about  to  discharge  the  second,  when  my  horse  slipt  on 
Mnne  wet  straw  left  by  a  recent  encampment,  and  wo  fell  together  upon 
the  wolf.  It  struggled  ajid  freed  iteelf.  leaving  nic  besmeared  with  its  blood. 
The  cock  of  the  pistol  fortiiiialoly  broke  in  going  oil' whilst  the  muzalt!  was 
<;]<»e  to  my  head,  and  I  escaped  without  other  injury  than  a  bruised  hand, 
the  complete  use  of  which  1  did  not  recover  for  some  months. 

On  my  return  to  Nimroud,  I  remained  there  a  few  days  to  give  directions 
to  the  overseers  for  continuing  the  work  during  a  prolonged  absence  which 
I  meditated  in  the  desert.  On  a  level  with  the  north-west  palate,  and  on 
the  south  side  of  the  high  pyramidal  mound,  some  chambers,  ornamented 
with  sculptures,  had  already  been  discovered,  and  it  was  chiefly  in  this  part 
of  the  ruins  that  the  excavations  were  now  carried  on  ;  but  I  will  defer  an 
account  of  the  remarkable  monuments  existing  there  until  I  can  describe 
the  entire  building  from  which  the  earth  was  removed  during  our  trip  to 
the  Khabour. 

At  Kouyunjik  several  new  chambers  had  been  opened.     The  western 

N 


4 


^m. 


I 


194 


NINKVBH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  X. 


porlal  of  the  great  hall,  whose  four  sides  were  uow  completely  uncovered,* 
led  into  a  long  narrow  chuinber  (eighty-two  f«et  by  twenty-six),  the  Avalli 
of  which  had  unfortunately  been  almost,  entirely  destroyed.!  On  such  frag- 
ments, however,  as  remained  were  traces  uftho  usual  eubjects, — battles  and 
Tictories.  There  was  nothing  remarkable  in  the  dresses  of  the  captives,  at 
in  the  details,  to  give  any  clue  to  the  conquered  people,  whose  country  wa» 
simply  represented  by  wooded  mountains  and  a  broad  river. 

In  the  chamber  bcyoiidj  a  few  slabs  were  still  standing  in  their  originai 
places.  In  length  this  room  was  the  same  as  that  parallel  to  it,  but  in 
breadtli  it  was  only  eighteen  feet.  The  bas-reliefs  represented  the  siege  and 
sack  of  one  of  the  many  cities  taken  by  the  great  king,  and  the  transfer  of 
its  captives  to  some  distant  province  of  Assyria.  The  prisoners  were  dressed 
in  garments  falling  to  the  calves  of  their  legs,  and  the  women  wore  a  kind 
of  turban.  Although  the  country  was  mountainous,  its  inhabitants  used  the 
camel  as  a  beast  of  burden,  and  in  the  sculptures  it  was  represented  laden 
with  the  spoil.  The  Assyrians,  as  was  their  custom,  carried  away  in  tri- 
umph the  images  of  the  gods  of  the  conquered  nation,  which  were  placed 
on  poles  and  borne  in  procession  on  men's  slioulders.  "Halh  any  god  of 
the  naliuns  dehvered  his  land  out  of  the  hand  of  the  king  of  Assyria?"  ei- 
claimed  the  Assyrian  general  to  the  Jews.  "Where  are  the  gods  of  Ha- 
math  and  A_r|)had  ?  where  are  the  gods  of  Sepharvaim  ?"i  They  had  been 
carried  away  with  the  captives,  and  the  very  idols  that  were  represented  in 
this  bas-relief  may  be  amongst  those  to  which  Rabshakeh  made  this  boast- 
ing allusion.  The  captured  gods  were  three,  a  human  figure  with  out- 
stretched arms,  a  lion-headed  man  carrying  a  long  staJS'in  one  hand,  and  an 
image  inclosed  by  a  square  frame.  Within  a  forlilied  camp,  defended  by 
lowers  and  battlements,  the  priests  were  oil'ering  up  the  sacrifices  usual 
upon  a  victory ;  the  pontifi'  was  distinguished  by  a  high  conical  cap,  and, 
as  is  always  the  case  in  the  Assyrian  sculptures,  was  beardless.  By  his 
side  slood  an  assistant.  Before  the  altar,  on  which  were  some  sacrificial 
utensils,  was  the  sacred  chariot,  with  its  elaborate  yoke.  On  a  raised  band, 
across  the  centre  of  the  castle,  was  inscribed  the  name  and  titles  of  Sonua- 
eherib.ll 

On  the  northern  side  of  the  great  hall  the  portal  formed  by  the  winged 
bulla,  and  the  two  smaller  doorways  guarded  by  colossal  winged  figures,  led 
into  a  chamber  one  hundred  feet  by  twenty-four,  which  opened  into  a  further 
room  of  somewhat  smaller  dimensions. H  In  the  first,  a.  few  slabs  were  still 
standing,  to  show  that  on  the  walla  had  been  represented  some  warlike  ex- 
pedition oflhe  Assyrian  king,  and,  as  usual,  the  triumphant  issue  of  the  cam- 
paign. The  monarch,  in  his  chariot,  and  surroutided  by  his  l)ody-guard», 
was  seen  receiving  the  captives  and  the  spoil  in  a  hilly  country,  whilst  his 
warriors  were  dragging  their  horses  up  a  steep  mountain  near  a  fortified 


I 


•  No.  vi.     Plan  1.  t  No.  ix.     Same  Plan. 

4  Isaiah,  xxxvi  18, 19. 

II  Plate  SO.  2d  series  of  Monuments  of  Nineveb. 


t  No.  X.    Same  Plan. 

T  Noa.  vii.  and  viii.  Plan  1 


^m$ 


Chap   X.] 


BAS-RELIEFS  DESCRIBED 


195 


town,  driving  their  chariots  along  the  banks  of  a  riyer,  and  slaying  with 
the  gpear  the  flying  enemy* 

The  bas-reliefs,  which  had  once  ornamented  the  second  chamber,  had 
been  still  more  completely  destroyed.  A  few  fragments  proved  that  they 
had  recorded  the  wars  of  the  Assyrians  with  a  maritime  people,  whose  over- 
throw was  represented  on  more  than  one  sculptured  wall  iti  the  palace,  and 
who  may  probably  be  idenlificd  with  some  nation  on  the  Phtenjcian  coast 
conquered  by  Sennacherib,  and  mentioned  in  his  great  inscriptions.  Their 
galleys,  rowed  by  double  banks  of  oarsmen,  and  the  high  conical  head-dress 
of  their  women,  have  already  been  described. t  On  the  best  preserved 
slab  was  the  interior  of  a  fortified  camp,  amidst  mountains.  Within  the 
walls  were  tents  whose  owners  were  engaged  in  various  domestic  occupa- 
tions, cooking  in  pots  placed  on  stones  over  the  fire,  receiving  the  blood  of  a 
slaughtered  sheep  ia  ajar,  and  making  ready  the  couches.     Warriors  were 

seated  before  a  (able,  with. their  shields  hung 
to  the  tent-polo  abivo  them.  This  bas-relief 
may  confirm  what  I  have  elsewhere  stated, 
that  the  Assyrians  were  accustomed  to  dwell 
in  teJits  within  the  walls  of  their  cities,  as  a 
portion  of  the  inhabitants  of  many  Eastern 
towns  still  do  ;  though  it  is  more  probable  that, 
in  this  sculpture,  a  fortihed  camp  is  intended 
by  the  turretted  ground-plan. t 

To  the  south  of  the  palace,  but  part  of  the 
same  great  building,  though  somewhat  re- 
moved from  the  new  excavations,  and  adjoin- 
ing those  formerly  carried  on,  an  additional 
chamber  had  been  opened,  in  which  several 
bas-reliefs  of  considerable  interest  had  been  dis- 
covered.^  Its  principal  entrance,  facing  the 
west,  was  formed  by  a  pair  of  colossal  human- 
headed  lions,  carved  in  coarse  limestone,  so 
much  injured  that  even  the  inscriptions  on  the 
lower  part  of  them  were  nearly  illegible.  Un- 
fortunately the  bas-reliefs  were  equally  muti- 
lated, four  stabs  only  retaining  any  traces  ol' 
sculpture.     One  of  tliem  represented  Assyrian 

•  Plate  29.  of  2d  series  of  Monuments  of  Nineveh. 

+  Nineveh  ami  its  Remains,  vo!   ii.  p.  !2S. 

t  Nineveh  and  its  Kemalns,  vol  ii.  p.  243.  It  was  first  suggested  by  a  recent 
writ«r  on  Nineveh,  and,  I  think,  for  good  reasons,  that  these  ground-plans  offortjfi- 
eations  in  the  bas-reliefs  represent  a  fortified  caaip,  and  mil  a  eiiy.  ("  Assyna,  Iter 
Manners  and  Custoins,  in'..,"  p.  327  ,  by  ,Mr.  Orjss, — a  work  the  general  accuracy  of 
whii-h  1  take  the  opportunity  of  acknowledging.) 

<)  No.  xxii.  Pl.in  1.  .Some  of  the  slabs  had  heen  originally  sculptured  III!  the  fact' 
now  turned  to  the  wall  of  sun-dned  bricks,  but  they  had  nut,  [  think,  been  brought 


196 


NINEVEU  AND  BABYLOPf. 


[Chap.  X. 


warriors  leading  captives,  who  differed  in  costuinc  from  any  other  conquer- 
ed people  hilherto  found  on  the  walla  of  the  palaces.  Their  head-dress 
consisted  of  high  leathers,  forming  a  kind  of  liara  like  that  of  an  Indian 
chief,  and  they  wore  a  robe  coirfined  at  the  waist,  by  an  ornamented  girdle. 
Some  of  them  curried  un  object  rescmbimg'  a  torch.  Amongst  the  enemies 
of  the  Egj'ptians  represented  on  their  monuments  is  a  tribe  similarly  at- 
tired. Their  name  has  been  read  Tokkari,  and  they  have  been  identified 
with  an  Afiatic  nation.  We  have  seen  that  in  the  inscriptions  on  the 
bulls,  the  Tokkari  are  mentioned  amongst  the  people  conqnered  by  Senna- 
cherib,* and  it  is  highly  probable  that  the  captives  in  the  bas-reliefs  I  am 


4<l 


]^rM-iKSiWil>W^. 


Baa-Tsllef  IVoin  Koafunjik,  repreaendng  AtrtlBed  City,  a  RWer  with  a  Boat  tiiid  Raft,  and  ■  Canal. 

describing  belonged  to  them.  Unfortunatfly  no  epigraph,  or  vestige  of  an 
inscription,  remained  on  the  sculptures  themselves,  to  enable  us  to  identify 
them.t 

On  a  second  slab,  jircserved  in  \\\\&  chamber,  was  represented  a  donble- 
walled  city  with  arched  gateways  and  inclined  approaches  leading  to  them 
from  the  outer  walls.  Within  were  warriors  with  horses  ;  outsiik-  the  for- 
tifications was  a  narrow  stream  or  canal,  planfeil  on  both  sides  with  trees, 
and  flowing  into  a  broad  river,  on  which  were  large  boats,  holding  several 

froni  any  oilier  building.  The  Myle  of  sculpture  was  similar  to  that  on  the  walls  uf 
Kouyunjik,  and  it  is  most  prohahle  that  some  error  having  tieen  mB<le  in  the  bas-re- 
lief, it  was  destroyed,  and  the  oppi>site  fare  carved  afresh 

•  See  p.  123.  \  Plate  44.  2d  scries  of  Monuments  of  Nineveh 


rfta 


198  MnOTIH  AHD  BABIMM.  [Owtf.  X. 

penoiu,  ind  a  nft  of  akiiu,  bearing  a  man  fishing,  and  two  othen  Mttod 
before  a  pot  or  oaldron.  Along  the  banks,  and  apparently  waahed  hj  &• 
stream,  was  a  wall  with  equidistant  towen  and  battlements.  On  another 
part  of  the  same  river  were  men  fisrrpng  horses  aoran  the  riveir  ia  boata, 
whilst  others  were  swimming  over  on  inflated  skins.  The  wstec  awaiMwl 
with  fish  and  crabs.  Gardens  and  orehards,  with  vaiioaa  Idnib  of  tnait 
appeared  to  be  watered  by  oanals  similar  to  those  whioh  ones  apntA  £u- 
tility  over  the  plains  of  Babylonia,  and  of  whii^  the  ehokad-iqp  beda  stiB 
remain.  A  man,  suspended  by  a -rope,  was  being  lowned  into  dwwat«. 
Upon  the  comer  of  a  slab  almost  destroyed,  wu  a  hanging  ganba,  HQfort- 
ed  upon  columns,  whose  capitals  were  not  unlike  dioie  of  the  ^''— ^wt¥ft« 
order.  This  representation  of  ornamental  gardena  was  highly  aanoaK) .  ^ 
is  much  to  be  regretted  that  the  bas-relieft  had  sustained  too  moali  i^Mlf 
to  be  restored  or  removed.  .^.m 


'■-w 


iniEPvlBlTIONB    FOB    A    JOURXKY   TO   Till   KHAROUIt. UrnLPTtlRKB  DIBCOTERED   THKIS. — 

SHEIKH  BtlTTltM. — HI8  BEDirK. IIEPARTVBIt  ttLOH  MOtUL. r««»t  %HC AHrHtHT . — AHOU 

KHAMCBIU. *   STOBM  — TEl.  BRNAB. — A   (TRAKOBR, TBI.  JEHAL. — THE  <-|llBr   OP  TEL 

*PER. A   SUNSBT   IN   THE    nKSEBT. — A  JEBOUR    ENCAtTPHEHT — THE    BBLLKD   SINJaR. — 

THE    tINJAR   KILL. — MIREAK. — BUKRA. — THE    DKRSR    OP  THE   ITRZtni!! — THE    SHOMAl.. 

OSSOPA. ALDINA. RETURN   TO  THE    BELLED. A   RNAKE-CHARMBR. JOl'RNEV  fONi:N- 

VKO  IN  THE  PEBBRT. R18IIWAK. ENCAMPKBNT  OP  THE  B0RA1/. DRRRB  OP  ARAB  WOM- 

BK   RATHAIAH. — MAWKING. A    OEPCTATION    PROIC   THE    YEZIDIS. ARAB    ENCAHP- 

■EKTS. THE    EHABODR. MQHANNEP    EMIH. — ARRIVAL    AT   ARBAM. 

I  HAD  long  wished  to  visit  the  batiks  of  the  Kkabour.  This  river,  the 
Chaboras  of  the  Greek  geographers,  and  the  Habor,  or  Chcbar,  of  the  Sa- 
maritan captivity*  rtBes  in  the  north  of  Mcso^iotamia,  and  flowing  to  the 
west  of  the  Siiijar  hill,  falls  into  the  Euphrates  near  the  site  of  the  ancien* 
city  of  Carchemisht  or  Circesium,  etill  known  to  the  Bedouins  by  the 
name  of  Carkeseea.  Ab  it  winds  through  the  midst  of  the  desert,  and  its 
rich  pastures  are  the  resort  of  wandering  iril)e8  of  Arabs,  it  is  always  difBcult 
of  access  to  the  traveller  It  was  examined,  for  a  short  distance  from  it« 
mouth,  by  the  expedition  under  Colonel  Chesney ;  but  the  general  course 
of  the  river  was  imperfectly  known,  and  several  geographieal  questions  of 
interest  connected  with  it  were  undetermined  previous  to  my  visit. 

With  the  Bedouins,  who  were  occasionally  my  guests  at  Mosul  or  Nim- 
2  Kings,  Eviii.  H.     Eiek.  i.  1.  f  2  Chron.  xjucv.  80. 


200 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XI. 


roud,  as  well  as  with  the  Jebours,  whose  encamping  grounds  were  origin- 
aily  on  its  banks,  the  Kliabour  was  a  constant  theme  of  exaggerated  praise 
The  richness  ol"  its  pastures,  the  beauty  of  its  flowers,  its  jungles  teeming 
with  game  of  all  kinds,  and  the  leafy  thickness  of  its  trees  yielding  au 
agreeable  shade  during  the  hottest  days  of  summer,  formed  a  terrestnal 
paradise  to  which  the  wandering  Ar&b  eagerly  turned  his  steps  when  he 
could  lead  his  flocks  thither  in  safety.  Ruins,  too,  as  an  additional  attrac- 
tion, wero  declared  to  abound  on  its  banks  and  formed  the  principal  iuduce- 
iiieiit  foe  me  to  undertake  a  long  and  somewhat  hazartlous  journey.  I  wa« 
ttuxtoug  to  determine  how  far  the  iuEuence  of  Aijsyrian  art  and  manners  ex- 
tended, and  whether  monuments  of  the  same  period  as  those  discovered  at 
Nineveh  existed  so  far  to  the  west  of  the  Tigris.  During  the  winter  my 
old  friend  Mohammed  Emin,  Sheikh  of  one  of  the  principal  branches  of  the 
Jobour  tribe,  had  pitched  his  tents  on  the  river.  Arabs  from  his  encamp- 
ment Would  ocuasionally  wander  to  Mosul.  They  generally  bore  au  invi- 
tation from  their  chief,  urging  mo  to  visit  him  when  the  spring  rendered  a 
march  through  the  desert  both  easy  and  jdeasant.  But  when  a  note  ar- 
rived from  the  Sheikh,  announcing  that  two  colossal  idols,  similar  to  those 
of  Nimroud,  had  suddenly  appeared  in  a  mound  by  the  river  side,  I  hesita- 
ted no  longer,  and  determined  to  start  at  once  for  the  Khabour.  To  avoid, 
however,  any  disappointment,  I  sent  one  of  my  own  workmen  to  examinr 
the  pretended  sculptures.  As  he  confirmed,  on  his  return,  the  account  1 
had  received,  I  lost  no  time  iu  making  preparations  for  the  journey. 

As  the  Shammar  Bedouins  were  scattered  over  the  desert  between  Mo- 
sul and  the  Khabour,  and  their  horsemen  continually  scoured  the  plains  iu 
search  of  plunder,  it  was  necessary  that  we  should  be  protected  and  ac- 
companied by  an  influential  chief  of  the  tribe.  I  accordingly  sent  (o  Sut- 
tum,  a  Sheikh  of  the  Boraij.onc  of  the  principal  branches  of  iheShammar. 
whose  tents  were  at  that  time  pitched  between  the  river  and  the  ruins  of 
El  Hather.  Outturn  was  well  known  to  mo,  and  had  already  given  proof:' 
of  his  trustworthiness  and  intelligence  on  more  than  one  similar  occasion. 
He  lost  MO  time  in  obeying  the  summons.  Arrangements  were  soon  made 
with  him.  He  agreed  to  furnish  camels  for  our  baggage,  and  to  remain 
with  me  himself  until  he  had  seeu  my  caravan  in  safety  again  within  the 
gates  of  Mosul.  He  returned  to  the  desert  to  fetch  the  camels,  and  to 
make  other  preparations  for  our  journey,  promisiug  to  be  with  me  in  &  few 
days. 

Punctual  to  his  appointment,  Sheikh  Suttum  brought  his  camels  to  Mo- 
sul on  the  iDth  of  March.  He  was  accompanied  by  Khoraif,  his  rcdiff,  as 
the  person  who  gits  on  the  dromedary*  behind  the  principal  rider  is  called 
by  the  Bedouins,  Amongst  the  two  great  nomado  tribes  of  the  Shammar 
and  Aneyza,  the  word  "  redifT"  frequently  infers  a  more  intimate  connec- 

•  I  use  the  word  "  dromedary"  for  a  swift-riding  camel,  the  Dtloul  of  the  Arabe, 
and  Htjin  of  the  Turks :  It  is  so  applied  generally,  although  incorrectly  hy  Europeans 
in  the  Eaat. 


Chap.  XI] 


OBPARTURE  FOR  TUB  DESKKT. 


201 


tion  than  a  mere  companionship  on  a  camel.  It  is  cuitomary  with  them 
for  a  warrior  to  swear  a  kind  of  brotherhood  with  a  person  not  oaly  not  re- 
lated to  him  by  blood,  but  frequently  even  of  a  Jiirereut  tribe.  Two  men 
connected  by  this  tie  are  inseparable.  They  go  together  to  war,  they  live 
in  the  same  tent,  and  are  allowed  to  see  each  other's  wives.  They  be- 
come, indeed,  more  than  brothers.  Khoraif  was  of  the  tribe  of  the  Aneyza, 
who  have  a  deadly  feud  with  the  Shammar.  Having  left  his  own  kith 
and  kin  on  account  of  some  petty  quarrel,  he  had  joined  their  enemies,  and 
had  become  the  rediff  of  Suttum,  dwelling  under  his  canvass,  accompany- 
ing him  in  his  expeditions,  and  riding  with  him  on  his  deloul.  Although 
he  had  deserted  his  tribe,  Khoraif  had  not  renounced  all  connection  with 
his  kindred,  nor  had  he  been  cut  ofi"  by  them.  Being  thus  allied  to  two 
powerful  clans,  he  was  able  to  render  equal  services  to  any  of  his  old  or 
new  friends,  who  might  full  into  each  other's  hands.  It  is  on  this  account 
that  a  warrior  generally  chooses  his  redifl'  from  a  warlike  tribe  with  which 
he  is  at  enmity,  for  if  taken  in  war,  he  would  then  be  dakhcel,  that  is,  pro- 
tected, by  the  family,  or  rather  particular  sept,  of  his  companion.  On  the 
other  hand,  should  one  of  the  rcdiff's  friends  become  the  prisoner  of  the  sub- 
tribe  into  which  his  kinsman  has  been  adopted,  he  would  bo  under  its  pro- 
tection, and  could  not  be  molested.  Tlitis  Khoraif  would  have  been  an  im- 
portant addition  to  our  party,  had  we  fallen  in,  during  our  journey,  with 
Aneyza  Arabs,  against  whom,  of  coarse,  Suttum  could  not  protect  us.  On 
warlike  expeditions  the  redifTgenurully  leads  the  mare  which  is  to  be  rid- 
den by  his  companinn  in  the  light.  When  in  liice  of  the  enemy  ho  is  left 
in  charge  of  the  dromedary,  and  takes  part  in  the  battle  from  its  back. 
He  rides,  when  travelling,  on  the  naked  back  of  the  animal,  clinging  to 
the  hinder  part  of  the  saddle,  his  legs  crouched  up  almost  to  his  chin — a 
very  uncomfortable  position  for  one  not  accustomed  from  childhood  to  a 
hard  seat  and  a  rough  motion. 

As  our  desert  trip  would  probably  last  for  more  than  two  mouths,  during 
which  time  we  should  meet  with  no  villages,  or  permanent  scltlemcuts,  we 
were  obliged  to  take  with  us  supplies  of  all  kinds,  both  for  ourselves  and 
the  workmen  ;  consequently,  flour,  rice,  burghoul  (prepared  wheat,  to  be 
used  as  a  substiUite  for  rice),  and  biscuits,  formed  a  large  portion  of  our 
baggage.  Two  enormous  boxes,  each  half  a  camel-load,  were  under  the 
particular  protection  of  Mr.  Hormuzd  Rassaro,  with  whom  they  became  a 
kind  of  hubby,  noluiliistauding  my  repeated  protests  against  their  size  and 
inconvenience.  They  held  various  luxuries,  such  as  sugar,  coffee,  tea,  and 
spices,  with  robes  of  silk  and  cotton,  and  red  and  yellow  boots,  presents  for 
the  various  chiefs  whom  wc  might  meet  in  the  desert.  Baskets,  tools  for 
excavating,  tents,  and  working  utensils,  formed  the  rest  of  our  baggage. 

I  knew  that  I  should  have  no  difficulty  in  finding  workmen  when  once 
in  Mohammed  Emin's  encampment.  As,  however,  it  was  my  intention  to 
explore  any  rnins  of  importance  that  we  might  see  on  our  way,  I  chose 
about  fifty  of  my  best  Arab  excavators,  and  twelve  Tiyari,  or  Nestorians, 


i 


ao2 


NINBVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[CttAP.  H. 


to  accompany  us.     They  were  to  follow  on  foot,  but  one  or  two  extra  cam* 
ela  were  provided  in  raso  any  were  unable  from  fatigue  to  keep  up  with 
the  caravan.     The  camels  were  driven  into  the  Bmall  Mussulman  burial* 
ground,  adjoining  my  house  in  Mosul.     The  whole  morning  was  spent  in  J 
dividing  and  arranging  the  loads,  always  the  most  diOicult  part  of  the 
preparations  for  a  jouruey  in  the  East.     The  pack-saddles  of  the  Bedouin*, 
mere  bags  of  rough  canvass  stufi'ed  with  straw,  were  ill  adapted  to  carry 
anylhing  but  sacks  of  wheal  and  Hour.     As  soon  as  a  load  was  adjusled,  it 
yrsM  sure  to  slip  over  the  tail,  or  to  turn  over  on  one  side.     When  this  dif- 
ficulty was  overcome,  the  animals  would  suddenly  kneel  and  shake  offlheirj 
burdens.     Their   owners  were   equally  hard  to  please  :    this   camel  Mraa' 
galled,  another  vicious,  a  third  wcnk.     Suttum  and  Khoraif  exerted  them- 
selves to  the  ultiiost,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  quarter,  together  with  stray 
passers-by,  jouied  iu  the  proceedings,  adding  to  the  din  and  confusion,  and 
of  course  considerably  to  our  diffiouUie.'!.     At  length,  as  the  muezzin  called] 
to  midday  prayer,  the  last  camel  issued  from  the  t^injar  gate.      A  place  of 
general  rendezvous  had  been  appointed  outside  the  walb,  that  our  party 
might  be  collected  together  for  a  proper  start,  and  that  those  who  were 
good  Mussulmans  might  go  through  their  prayers  before  commencing  »1 
perilous  journey. 

I  did  not  leave  the  town  until  nearly  an  hour  and  a  half  after  the  cara- 
van, to  give  time  for  the  loads  to  be  finally  adjusted,  and  the  line  of  march 
to  be  formed.  When  we  had  all  assembled  outside  the  Siajar  gate,  our  party 
had  swollen  into  a  little  army.  The  Doctor,  Mr.  Cooper,  and  Mr.  Hormuzd 
Bassam,  of  course,  accompanied  mc.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rulland.  with  their  serv- 
ants, had  joined  our  expedition.  My  Yczidi  fellow-traveller  from  Constan- 
tinople, Cawal  Yusuf,  with  three  companions,  was  to  escort  me  to  the  Sin- 
jar,  and  to  accompany  us  in  our  tour  through  that  district.  Several  Jebour 
families,  whose  tribe  was  encamped  at  Abou-Psera,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Khabour,  seized  this  opportunity  to  join  their  friends,  taking  with  them 
their  tents  and  cattle.  Thirteen  or  fourteen  Bedouins  had  charge  of  the 
camels,  so  that,  with  the  workmen  and  servants,  our  caravan  consisted  of 
nearly  one  hundred  well-armed  men  ;  a  force  sufficient  to  defy  almost  any, 
hostile  party  with  which  we  were  likely  to  fall  in  during  our  journey.  W»i 
had  about  five  and  twenty  camels  and  as  many  horses,  some  of  which  were 
led.  As  it  was  spring  time  and  the  pastures  were  good,  it  was  not  neces- 
sary to  carry  much  provender  for  our  animals.  Hussein  Bey.  the  Yczidi 
chief,  and  many  of  our  friendg,  as  it  is  customary  in  the  East,  rode  with  HI 
during  part  of  our  first  stage  ;  and  my  excellent  friend,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Ford, 
■.n  American  missionary,  then  resident  in  Mosul,  passed  the  first  evening 
under  our  tents  in  the  desert. 

Suttum,  with  his  rediff.  rode  a  light  fleet  dromedary,  which  had  been 
taken  in  a  plundering  expedition  from  the  Aneyza.  Its  name  was  Bhwaila. 
Its  high  and  picturesque  saddle  wes  profusely  ornamented  with  brass  boss- 
es and  nails  ;  over  the  seat  was  thrown  tho  Baghdad  double  bags  adome^! 


Chap  XI  ] 


SHEIKH  SVTTl'M. 


203 


with  long  tassels  and  fringes  of  many-colored  wools,  so  much  coveted  by  the 
Bedouin.  The  Sheikh  had  the  geiieral  direction  and  Bupennleudetice  of 
our  march.  The  Mesopotaraian  desert  had  been  his  home  Irom  his  birth, 
and  he  knew  ever)'  spring  and  pasture.  He  was  of  the  Saadi,  one  of  the 
most  illustrious  families  of  the  Shammar,*  and  he  possessed  great  personal 
influence  in  the  tribe.  His  intcllipence  was  of  a  very  high  ordor,  and  he 
was  as  well  known  for  his  skill  in  Bedouin  intrigue,  as  for  his  courage  and 
daring  iu  war.     In  person  ho  was  of  middle  height,  of  spare  habil,  but  well 


Slwikh  SiiKnin 

milde,  and  of  noWe  and  dignified  carriage  ;  although  a  musket  wound  in 
the  thigh,  from  which  the  ball  had  not  been  extracted,  gave  him  a  slight 
lameness  in  his  gait.  His  features  were  regular  and  well-proportioned, 
and  of  that  delicate  character  so  frequently  found  amongst  the  nomades  of 
the  desert.  A  restless  and  sparkling  eye  of  the  deepest  black  spoke  the 
inner  man,  and  seemed  to  scan  and  penetrate  every  thing  within  its  ken. 

•  An  Arab  tribe  is  divided  into  sfpls,  ami  paoh  sept  is  composed  of  certain  farai- 
lias.  Thus  Sultum  was  a  Shnnunar,  of  the  branch  called  the  Boraij.  and  of  the  fam- 
ily of  the  Saadi,  besides  being  a  member  of  a  peculiar  division  of  the  great  tribe  called 
the  Khoruaseh. 


204 


NINBVEil  iiND  BABYLON. 


tOiKkr.XI. 


His  dark  hair  was  platted  into  many  long  tails  ;  his  beard,  like  that  of  the 
ArabK  in  general,  was  scanty.     He  wore  the  usual  Arab  shirt,  and  over  iVj 
a  clouk  of  blue  cloth,  trimmed  with  red  silk  and  lined  wi(h  fur,  a  preseat, 
from  some  Pasha  as  he  pretended,  but  more  probably  a  part  of  some  gre 
man's  wardrobe  that  had  been  appropriated  without  its  owner's  consent.] 
A  colored  kcrchiel',  or  keffieh,  was  thrown  loosely  over  his  head,  and  coH"! 
fined  above  the  temples  by  a  rope  of  twisted  camel's  hair.     At  his  side 
hung  a  scimitar,  an  antique  horse-pistol  was  held  by  a  rope  tied  as  a  girdle 
round  his  waist,  and  a  long  spear,  tufted  with  black  ostrich  feathers,  and 
ornamented  with  scarlet  streamers,  rested  on  his  shoulder.     He  was  the 
verj'  picture  of  a  true  Bedouin  Sheikh,  and  his  liveliness,  his  wit,  and  his 
singular  [wwers  of  conversation,  which  made  him  the  most  agreeable  of 
companions,  did  not  belie  his  race.*     Tho  rest  of  my  party,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  workmen,  who  were  on  foot,  or  who  contrived  to  find  placet] 
on  the  loads,  and  spare  camels,  wore  on  horseback-     The  Bairakdar  had 
the  general  management  of  the  caravan,  superintending,  with  untiring  zeal 
and  activity,  the  loading  and!  unloading  of  the  animals,  the  pitching  of  the 
tents,  and  the  night  watches,  which  aro  highly  necessary  in  the  desert. 

As  we  wound  slowly  over  the  low  rocky  hills  to  tho  west  of  the  town  of 
Mosul,  in  a  long  straggling  line,  our  caravan  had  a  strange  and  motley  ap- 
pearance ;  Europeans,  Turks,  Bedouins,  town-Arabs,  Tiyari,  and  Yezidit. 
were  mingled  in  singular  confusion  ;  each  adding,  by  difl'erence  of  costume 
and  a  profusion  of  bright  colors,  to  the  general  picturesqueness  and  gaiety 
of  the  scene. 

The  Tigris,  from  its  entrance  into  the  low  country  at  the  foot  of  the 
Kurdish  mountains  near  Jezirch,  to  the  ruined  town  of  Tekrit,  is  separated 
from  the  Mesopotamian  plains  by  a  range  of  low  limestone  hills.  We  rode 
over  this  undulating  ground  for  about  an  hour  and  a  half  and  then  d^ 
loended  into  the  plain  of  Zerga,eiicampiDg  for  the  night  near  the  ruins  of 
a  small  village,  with  a  falling  Kosr,  called  Sahaghi,  about  twelve  miles 
from  Mosul.  The  place  had  been  left  by  its  inhabitants,  like  all  others  on 
the  desert  side  of  the  town,  on  account  of  the  depredations  of  the  Bedouins. 
There  is  now  scarcely  one  permanent  settlement  on  the  bonks  of  the  Tigric 
from  Jezireh  to  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Baghdad,  with  the  exception  of  Mo- 
sul and  Tekrit.    One  of  tho  most  fertile  countries  in  the  world,  watered  by 

•  Durckhardt,  the  English  traveller  best  acquainted  with  the  Bedouin  character,  ami 
admirably  correct  in  describing  it,  makes  the  foUowiog  remarks :  •*  With  all  their 
faulu,  the  Bedouina  are  one  of  the  noblest  nationa  with  which  I  ever  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  becoiuiiig  acquainted.  .  .  .  The  sociaWe  character  of  a  Bedouin,  when  there 
is  no  question  of  profit  or  interest,  may  he  described  as  truly  amiabjp.  His  cheerful- 
ness, wit,  softness  of  temper,  Rood-nature,  and  sag-acity,  which  enable  him  to  make 
shrewd  remarks  on  all  subjects,  render  him  a  pleasing,  acid  often  a  valuable,  compan- 
ion. His  equality  of  temper  is  never  ruffled  by  fatigue  or  sufTering-."  (Notes  on  the 
Bedouins,  pp.  203.  308.)  L'tifortunately,  since  Burckhardt's  ttme,  closer  intercourse 
with  the  Turks  and  with  Europeans,  has  much  tended  to  destroy  many  good  features 
in  the  Arab  character. 


a  river  navigable  for  nearly  six  hundred  miles,  has  been  turned  into  a  des- 
ert and  a  wilderness,  by  conliiiucd  inisgovernment,  oppression,  and  neglect. 

Our  tents  were  pitched  near  a  puol  of  rain  water,  which,  although  mud- 
dy and  scant,  sufficed  for  our  wants.  There  are  no  springs  in  this  part  of 
the  plain,  and  the  Bedouins  are  entirely  dependent  upon  such  temporary 
tiupplies.  The  remains  of  ancient  villuges  show,  however,  that  water  is  not 
concealed  far  beneath  the  surface,  and  that  wells  once  yielded  all  that  was 
required  for  irrigation  and  human  consumption. 

The  loads  had  not  yet  been  fairly  divided  amongst  the  camels,  and  the 
sun  had  risen  above  the  horizon  before  the  Bedouins  had  arranged  them  to 
their  satisfaction,  and  were  ready  to  depart.  The  plain  of  Zerga  was  car- 
peted with  tender  grass,  scarcely  yet  forward  enough  to  afibrd  pasture  for 
our  animals.  Scattered  here  and  there  were  tulips  of  a  bright  scarlet  hue, 
the  earliest  flower  of  the  spring. 

A  ride  of  three  hours  and  a  quarter  brought  us  to  a  second  line  of  lime- 
stone hills,  the  coutinuatiini  uf  (he  Tel  Afer  and  Sinjar  range,  dividing  the 
small  plain  of  Zerga  from  the  true  Mesopotamian  desert.  From  u  pt-ak 
which  I  ascended  to  take  bearings,  the  vast  level  country,  stretehitig  to 
the  Euphrates,  lay  like  a  map  beneath  me,  dotted  with  mounds,  but  other- 
wise unbroken  by  a  single  eniinenrc.  The  nearest  and  most  remarkable 
group  of  ruins  was  called  Abou  Khameera,  and  consisted  of  u  lofty,  conical 
mound  surrounded  by  a  square  inclosurc,  or  ridge  of  earth,  marking,  as  at 
Kouyunjik  and  Ntmroud,  the  remains  of  ancient  walls.  F'rom  the  foot  of 
the  hill  on  which  1  stood  there  issued  a  small  rivulet,  winding  amongst 
rushes,  and  losing  itsidf  in  the  plain.  Tlits  rinming  water  had  drawn  to- 
gether the  black  tents  of  the  Jeiiesh,  a  lialf  sedentary  tribe  of  Arabs,  who 
cultivate  the  lands  around  the  ruined  village  of  Aboii  Maria.  Their  Hocks 
grazing  on  the  plain,  and  the  shepherds  wh"  watrhed  them,  were  the  only 
hvnig  objects  in  that  boimdless  oxpiitise.  The  hill  and  the  stream  are  call- 
ed Mohallibiyah,  froin  the  sweetness  of  the  water,  the  neighbouring  springs 
being  all  more  or  less  brackish.* 

As  the  caravan  issued  from  the  defile  leading  from  the  hills  into  the 
plain,  the  Arabs  brought  out  bowls  of  enur  milk  and  fresh  water,  inviting 
us  to  spend  the  night  in  their  encampment.  Ei^hi:  or  ten  of  my  workmen, 
under  a  Christian  superintendent,  had  been  for  some  days  excavutrug  in 
the  ruins  of  Abou  Khameera.  I  therefore  ordered  the  tents  to  bo  pitched 
near  the  reedy  slrcatn,  and  galloped  to  the  mounds,  which  were  rather 
more  than  a  mite  distant. 

In  general  plan  the  ruins  closely  resemble  those  of  Mokhatnonr  in  the 
Tai  country. f  A  broad  and  lofty  mound  shows  the  traces  of  several  dis- 
tinct platforms  or  terraces  rising  one  above  the  other.     It  is  almost  j»erpen- 

*  There  is  a  second  spring  offresli  water  callfi]  Shetkii  Ibniliini,  heneaili  a  high 
rock  named  Maasoud.  The  whole  line  ofhiils  hiwndnii;  tlip  plain  of  Zerpa  to  the 
west  is  o.alled  Kehriliyah,  "the  HLilpliur  range,"  rrutn  a  siil[ih(tntus>  spniii;  rising  at 
their  feet.  In  this  range  are  several  remarkable  peaks,  serving  as  landmarks  Trom 
great  distances  in  the  desert.  1  See  p.  1S7. 


4 


206 


NINXVSB  AWD  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XI 


dicular  on  iu  four  sides,  except  where,  on  the  south-eastern,  there  appeals 
to  have  been  an  inchned  ascent,  or  a  flight  of  steps,  leading  to  the  summit, 
and  it  stands  nearly  in  the  centre  of  an  inelosure  of  earthen  walls  forming 
a  regular  quadrangle  about  6G0  paces  square.  The  workmen  had  opened 
deep  trenches  and  tutuiels  in  several  parts  of  the  principal  ruin,  and  hid 
foutid  walls  of  sun-dried  brick,  unsculptured  alabaster  slabs,  and  some  oi^ 
cular  stone  sockets  for  the  hinges  of  gates,  similar  to  those  discovered  at 
Nimroud.  The  bnlced  bricks  and  the  pieces  of  gypsum  and  pottery  scat- 
tered amongst  the  rubbish  bora  no  inscriplioiis,  nor  could  1,  after  the  most 
careful  search,  find  the  smallest  fragment  of  sculpture.  I  have  no  hesita- 
tion, however,  in  assigning  the  ruins  to  the  Assyrian  period. 

The  Jehesh  encamped  near  Abou  Khameera  were  under  Sheikh  Salch, 
the  chief  of  this  branch  of  a  Iribe  scattered  over  the  pashalic,  and  once 
large  and  powerful,  They  pay  kowee,  or  black  mail,  to  the  Shammar  Be- 
douins, and  are  thus  able  to  pasture  their  flocks  free  from  molestation  in 
this  part  of  the  desert. 

One  of  those  furiuus  and  sudden  storms,  ■which  frequently  sweep  over  the 
plains  of  Mesopotamia  during  ihe  spring  season,  burst  over  us  iu  the  night 
Whilst  incessant  lightnings  broke  the  gloom,  a  raging  wind  almost  drowned 
the  deep  roll  of  the  thunder.  The  united  strength  of  the  Arabs  could 
scarcely  hold  ihe  Happing  canvass  of  the  tents.  Rain  descended  in  tor- 
rents, sparing  us  no  place  of  shelter.  Towards  dawn  the  hurricane  had 
passed  away,  leaving  a  still  and  cloudless  sky.  When  the  round  clear  sun 
rose  from  the  broad  expanse  of  the  desert,  a  delightful  calm  and  freshnesi 
pervaded  the  air,  producing  mingled  sensations  of  pleasure  and  re]>08e. 

The  vegettttiun  was  far  more  furward  in  that  part  of  the  desert  traversed 
during  the  day's  journey  than  iu  the  plain  of  Zcrga.  We  trod  on  a  caq)e( 
of  the  brightest  verdure,  mingled  with  gaudy  Howers.  Men  and  animalt 
rejoiced  equally  in  these  luxuriant  pastures,  and  leaving  the  line  of  march 
strayed  over  the  meadows.  On  all  sides  of  us  rose  Assyrian  mounds,  now 
covered  with  soft  herbage.  I  rode  with  Sutlum  from  niiu  to  ruin,  examin- 
ing each,  but  finding  no  othor  remains  than  fragments  of  pottery  and  baked 
bricks.  The  Dedouin  chief  had  names  for  them  all.  but  they  were  mere 
Arab  names,  derived  generally  iVcin  some  local  pwiiliariiy  :  the  more  an- 
cient had  been  long  lost.  From  his  childhood  his  father's  tents  had  been 
pitched  «moiig<it  ihesc  ruins  lor  some  weeks  twice,  nearly  every  year  ;  when 
in  ihc  spnng  the  Iribo  journeyed  towards  the  banks  of  the  Khubour,  and 
ftsain  when  in  nutiunn  they  rcsought  their  winter  caniping-gronntls  around 
Babylon  The*c  lolly  inounds,  seen  from  a  great  distance,  and  the  best  of 
Usdmatk*  in  •»  *»•'  plain,  guide  the  Bedouin  in  his  yearly  wanderings.* 

1W1  BllM*)i.  "  ^^^  mound  of  the  spears,''  had  been  visible  from  our  teati, 

*  TIW  MllMI^N(  A'*'  *'"'  i"*'"'^  of  the  prineipal  mounds  seen  during  this  day's 

SIMtet,  l>iin>tfi>.  Aclrliynh.  AlHtu-KiilihHli.  anil  Kharala.  each  namft 

1  Vt^M>  Af*^***'  ^^onl  fel, »  r.  inoniuJ      They  an-  laid  down  in  (he  ma^' 

l^Mi.vik«M*v  their  positions  having  been  fixed  by  eareful  hearings,  and 

k^WW»  •«>\(«nt, 


I 


rising!  far  above  the  gurrouadiug  ruins.  Aa  it  was  a  little  out  of  the  direct 
line  of  inarch,  tSuttum  rnouiiteU  one  of  our  led  horiea,  and  leaving  Kiioraif 
to  protect  the  caravan,  rode  with  mo  to  the  spot.  The  mound  is  precisely 
similar  in  character  tu  Abuu  Khumeera  and  Mokhamour,  and,  like  them, 
stands  within  a  quadrangle  of  earthen  walls.  On  its  south-eastern  side  also 
ia  a  ravine,  the  remains  of  the  ascent  to  the  several  terraces  of  the  building. 
The  principal  ruin  has  assumed  a  conical  form,  like  the  high  motnid  at 
NiiJiroud,  and  from  the  same  cause.  It  was.  1  presume,  originally  square. 
Within  the  inclosure  are  traces  of  ancient  dwellings,  but  1  was  unable  to 
find  any  inscribed  fragmeuts  uf  stone  or  brick. 

Whilst  I  was  examining  the  ruins,  jjuttum,  from  the  highest  mound,  had 
been  scaiming  the  plain  with  his  eagle  eye.  At  length  it  rested  upon  • 
distant  moving  object.  Although  with  a  telescope  1  could  scarcely  distin- 
guish that  to  which  he  pointed,  the  Sheikh  saw  that  it  was  a  rider  on  a 
dromedary.  Ho  now,  therefore,  began  to  watch  the  stranger  with  that 
eager  curiosity  and  suspicion  always  shown  by  a  Bedouin  when  the  solitude 
of  the  desert  is  broken  by  a  human  being  of  whose  condition  and  business 
he  is  ignorant.  Suttnm  soon  salislied  himself  as  to  the  character  of  the  sol- 
itary wajiderer.  He  declared  him  to  be  a  messenger  from  his  own  tribe, 
who  had  been  sent  to  lead  us  to  his  father's  tents.  Mounting  his  horse, 
he  galloped  towards  him,  The  Arab  soon  perceived  the  approaching  horse- 
man, and  then  commenced  an  both  sides  a  series  of  innnatuvres  practised 
by  those  who  meet  in  the  desert,  and  are  as  yet  distrusLful  of  each  other. 
J  marked  them  from  the  ruin  as  they  cautiously  approached,  now  hailing. 
now  drawing  nigh,  and  then  pretending  to  ride  away  in  an  opposite  direc- 
tion. At  length,  recognising  one  another,  they  met,  and,  having  firet  dis- 
mounted to  embrace,  came  together  towards  us.  As  Suttnm  had  conject- 
ured, a  messenger  had  been  sent  to  him  from  his  father's  tribe.  The  Bo- 
raij  were  now  moving  towards  the  north  in  search  of  the  spring  pastiirea, 
and  their  tents  would  ho  pitched  in  three  or  four  days  beneath  the  Sinjai 
hill.  Suttum  at  once  understood  the  order  of  their  march,  and  made  ar 
rangements  to  meet  them  accordingly. 

Leaving  the  ruins'of  Tel  Ermah,  we  found  the  caravan  halting  neai 
some  wells  of  sweet  water,  called  Marzib.  They  belong  to  a  branch  of 
the  Jebours  under  Sheikh  Abd-ul-Azeez.  and  a  few  patches  of  green  barley 
and  wheat  were  scattered  around  them,  but  the  tents  of  the  tribe  were  now 
nearer  the  hills,  and  the  cultivated  plots  were  left  unprotected. 

From  this  spot  the  old  castle  flf  Tel  Afer.*  standing  boldly  on  an  eminence 
about  ten  rniles  distant,  was  plainly  visible.  Continuing  our  march  we  reach- 
ed, towards  evening,  a  group  of  moundi;  known  as  Tel  Jemal.  and  pitched  in 
the  midst  of  them  on  a  green  lawn,  enamelled  with  llowers,  that  furnished 
a  carpet  for  our  tents  unequalled  in  softness  of  texture,  or  in  richness  of  col- 
or, by  the  looms  of  Cashmere.  A  sluggish  stream,  call>--d  by  the  Arabs  Ei 
Abra,  and  by  the  Turcomans  of  Tel  Afer,  Kharala,  crept  through  the  ruini. 
•  Nineveh  and  its  Remains,  vol.  i.  p.  313. 


^ 


30S 


NINIYEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XI. 


Thfl  tente  had  scarcely  been  raised  when  a  party  of  horsemen  were  seen 
CTming  towards  ue.    As  they  approached  our  encampment  they  played  the 
Jerid  with  their  long  spears,  galloping  to  Jlnd  fro  on  their  well-trained 
tnares.     They  were  the  priiicijml  inhabitants  of  Tel  Afer  with  Ozair  Agha, 
their  chief,  who  brought  us  a  present  oflambs,  flour, and  fresh  vegetable*. 
The  Agha  rode  on  a  light  chestnut  mare  of  beautiful  proportions  and  raw] 
breed.     His  dress,  as  well  as  that  of  his  followers,  was  singularly  picta^] 
esque.     His  people  are  Turcomans,  a  solitary  colony  in  the  midst  of  the  defr ' 
ort ;  and  although  their  connection  with  the  Bedouins  has  taught  them  the 
tongue  and  the  habits  of  the  wandering  tribes,  yet  they  still  wear  the  tur- 
ban of  many  folds,  and  the  gay  flowing  robes  of  their  ancestors.     They  al- 
low their  hair  to  grow  long,  and  to  fall  in  curls  on  their  shoulders. 

Ozair  Agha  was  an  old  friend,  who  had  more  than  once  found  refuge  iftj 
my  house  from  government  oppression.  He  now  sought  my  advice  and  pr 
toetion,  for  he  was  accused  of  having  been  privy  to  some  recent  foray  of  the 
Bedouins,  and  was  summoned  to  Mosul  to  answer  the  charge,  of  which, 
however,  he  declared  himself  completely  innocent.  I  urged  him  to  obey 
the  summons  without  delay,  to  avoid  the  suspicion  of  rebellion  against  the 
government.     I  gave  him,  at  the  same  time,  letters  to  the  authorities. 

As  the  evening  crept  on,  I  watched  from  the  highest  mound  the  sun 
it  gradually  sank  in  unclouded  splendour  below  the  sea-like  expanse  befof 
me.  On  all  sides,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  rose  the  grass-covered  heap 
marking  the  site  of  ancient  habitations.  The  great  tide  of  civilisation  hadj 
long  since  ebbed,  leaving  these  scattered  wrecks  on  the  solitary  shore.  Al 
those  waters  to  (low  again,  bearing  bnek  the  seeds  of  knowledge  and  of 
wealth  that  they  have  wafted  to  the  West  ?  We  wanderers  were  seeking 
what  they  had  left  behind,  as  children  gather  up  the  colored  shells  on  the 
descried  sands.  At  my  feet  there  was  a  busy  scene,  making  more  lonely 
the  unbroken  solitude  which  reigned  in  the  vast  plain  around,  where  the 
only  thing  having  life  or  motion  were  the  shadows  of  the  lofty  moundi  u 
they  lengthened  before  the  declining  sun.  Above  three  years  before,  when, 
watching  the  approach  of  night  from  the  oldoaslle  of  Tel  Afer,  I  had  count- 
ed nearly  one  hundred  ruins,*  now,  when  in  the  midst  of  them,  no  less  than 
double  that  number  were  seen  from  Tel  Jemal.  Our  tents  crowning  the 
lip  of  a  natural  amphitheatre  bright  with  flowers,  Ozair  Agha  and  liis  Tur- 
comans seated  on  the  greensward  in  earrjest  talk  with  the  Arab  chief,  the 
horses  picketed  in  the  long  grass,  the  Bedouins  driving  home  their  camels 
for  the  night's  rest,  the  servants  and  grooms  busied  with  their  various  la- 
bors ;  such  was  the  foreground  to  a  picture  of  perfect  calm  and  stillness. 
In  the  distance  was  the  long  range  of  the  Sinjar  hills,  furrowed  with  count- 
less ravines,  each  marked  by  a  dark  purple  shadow,  gradually  melting  into 
the  evening  haze. 

We  had  a  long  day's  inarch  before  us  to  the  village  of  Sinjar.     The  wil- 
l^dernesB  appeared  still  more  beautiful  than  it  had  done  the  day  before.    The 
*  Nineveh  and  its  Kemains,  vol.  i.  p.  316. 


recent  storm  had  given  new  life  to  a  vegetatioa  which,  concealed  beneath 
a  crust  of  apparently  unfruiliul  earth,  only  waits  tor  a  ttpriug  shower  to 
bunt,  a«  If  by  enchantmeat,  through  the  thirsty  soil,  Here  and  there  grew 
patches  of  a  ehrub-like  plant  wilh  an  edible  mot,  having  &  sharp  pungent 
taste  Uke  mustard,  eaten  raw  aud  much  relished  by  the  liedouins.  Among 
ihem  lurked  game  of  various  kinds.  Troops  of  gazelles  sprang  from  the  low 
cover,  and  bounded  over  the  plain.  The  greyhounds  coursed  hares  ;  the 
horsemen  followed  a  wild  boar  of  enormous  size,  and  nearly  white  from 
age  ;  and  the  Doctor,  who  was  the  sportsman  of  the  party,  shot  a  bustard, 
with  a  beautiful  speckled  plumage,  and  a  rufTof  long  leathers  round  its 
neck.  This  bird  was  larger  than  the  common  small  bustard,  but  appar- 
ently of  the  same  species.  Other  bustards,  the  great  and  the  rniddle-sized 
(the  Houbrou  and  Houbara  of  the  Araba*),  and  the  lesser,  besides  many 
birds  of  the  plover  kind.f  rose  from  these  tufts,  which  seemed  to  afford  food 
and  shelter  to  a  variety  of  living  creatures.  We  scanned  the  horizon  in 
vain  for  the  wild  ass,  which  is  but  thinly  scattered  over  the  plains.  The 
Arabs  found  many  eggs  of  the  middle  bustard.  They  were  laid  in  the  grass 
without  any  regular  nest,  the  bird  simply  making  a  form  somewhat  like 
that  of  a  hare,  and  sitting  very  close,  frequently  not  rising  until  it  was  near- 
ly irndden  under  foot.  One  or  two  eggs  of  the  great  bustard  were  also 
brought  to  me  during  the  day. 

We  still  wandered  amongst  innumerable  mounds.  The  largest  I  exam- 
ined were  called  Hathail  and  Usgah.  They  resembled  those  of  Abou-Kha- 
meerah  and  Tel  Errnah,  with  the  remains  of  terraces,  the  ascent  to  them 
being  on  the  south-eastern  side,  and  the  enclosure  of  earthen  walls. 

We  rode  in  a  direct  line  to  the  Belled  Sinjar,  the  residence  of  the  gov- 
ernor of  the  district.  There  was  no  beaten  track,  and  the  camels  wander- 
ed along  as  they  listed,  cropping  as  they  went  the  young  grass.  The  horse- 
men and  footmen,  too,  noaltered  themselves  over  the  plain  in  search  of 
game.  Suttum  rode  from  group  to  group  on  his  swift  deloul,  urging  them 
to  keep  together,  as  the  Aneyza  gaztmst  occasionally  swept  this  part  of 
the  desert.  But  to  little  purpose  ;  the  feeling  of  liberty  and  independence 
which  these  boundless  meadows  produced  was  too  complete  and  too  pleas- 
ing to  be  controlled  by  any  fear  of  danger,  or  by  the  Sheikh's  prudent 
counsel.  All  shared  in  the  exhilarating  uil'ects  of  the  air  and  scene.  Hor- 
muzd  would  occasionally  place  himself  at  the  head  of  the  Jebours,  and 
chant  their  war  songs,  improvising  words  suited  to  the  occasion.  The  men 
answered  in  chorus,  dancing  as  they  wont,  brandishing  their  weapons,  and 
raising  their  bright-colored  kerchiefs,  aa  flags,  on  the  end  of  their  spean. 
The  more  sedate  Bedouins  smiled  in  contempt  at  these  noisy  eflhsiona  of 

•  The  Houbron  is  the  Olia  tarda,  or  great  bastard  ;  the  Hoiibam,  the  Otis  Houbara. 
I  beheve  that  more  than  one  species  of  the  lesser  bustard  (Otis  tetrax)  is  found  in 
tbe  Mesopotamian  plains. 

t  Tlie  most  aburiJant  was  a  large  grey  plovei  called  by  the  Bedouins  "  Smong." 

X  A  plundering  parly,  the  ckappou  of  the  Persian  trtlies. 

0 


M 


SlO 


laNKVBH  AND  BABTLOM. 


tCHAP.  XI. 


joy,  only  worthy  of  tribes  who  have  touched  the  plough  ;  but  they 
dulgcd  in  no  less  keen,  though  more  Buppressed,  emotions  of  delight.  Even 
tbu  Tiyari  cuught  the  general  enthusiasm,  and  sung  their  mountain  Bcugs 
as  they  walked  along. 

As  we  drew  near  to  the  foot  of  the  hills  we  found  a  large  encampment, 
formed  partly  by  Jebouis  belonging  to  Sheikh  Abd-ul-Azeez,  and  partly  by 
a  Sinjar  tribe  called  Mendfca,  under  a  chief  known  as  the  "  Effendi,"  whj^ 
enjoys  considerable  inftucnce  iu  this  district.     His  tent  is  frequently  a  plao 
of  refuge  for  Bedouin  chiefs  and  others,  who  have  fled  from  successful 
vals,  or  from  the  Turkish  authorities.     Hia  grandfather,  a  Yezidi  in  creed,' 
embraced  Mohammedanism  from  political  motives.     The  conversion  was 
not  consequently  very  sincere,  and  his  descendants  are  still  suspected  of  n, 
leaning  to  the  faith  of  their  forefathers.     This  double  character  is  one  of 
the  principal  causes  of  the  EfTendi's  influence.     Hia  tribe,  which  inhabits 
the  Belled  and  adjoining  villages  on  the  south  side  of  the  mountain,  con> 
gists  almost  entirely  of  Yezidis.     The  chief  himself  resides  during  the  win- 
ter and  spring  in  tents,  and  the  rest  of  the  year  in  a  village  named  Soulalbj 
The  Yezidis  of  the  Sinjar  are  divided  into  ten  distinct  tribes,  the  HeakK» 
Mendka.  Houbaba,  Merkhau,  fiukra,  Beit-Khaled,  Amera,  Al  Dakhi,  Se- 
moki,  and  Kerani. 

I  dismounted  at  a  short  distance  from  the  encampment,  to  avoid  a  breao 
of  good  manners,  aa  to  refuse  to  eat  bread,  or  to  spend  the  night,  afte 
alighting  near  a  tent,  would  be  thought  a  grave  slight  upon  its  owner.H 
The  caravan  continued  its  journey  towards  the  village.     1  was  soon  cur- 
rounded  by  the  principal  people  of  the  camp  ;  amongst  them  was  one  of  my 
old  workmen,  Khulhcr,  who  now  cultivated  a  small  plot  of  ground  in  the 
desert. 

It  was  with  difficulty  that  1  resisted  the  entreaties  of  the  Ellendi  to  pa^ 
take  of  his  hospitality.  We  did  not  reach  the  Belled  until  after  the  sun 
had  gone  down,  the  caravan  having  been  ten  hours  in  unceasing  march. 
The  tents  were  pitched  ou  a  small  plot  of  ground,  watered  by  numerous 
rills,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  ruins.  Although  almost  a  swamp,  it  was  the 
only  spot  free  from  stones  and  rubbish.  In  front  of  the  tent  door  rose  a 
leaning  minaret,  part  of  a  mosque,  and  other  ruins  of  Arab  edifices.  To 
the  right  was  an  old  wall  with  a  falling  archway,  from  beneath  which 
gushed  a  most  ahundant  stream:  of  cleat  sweet  water,  still  retained  for  a 
moment  in  the  stone  basins  once  the  fountains  and  reservoirs  of  the  city. 

I  had  scarcely  entered  my  tent  when  the  governor  of  the  district,  who 
resides  in  a  small  modem  castle  built  on  the  liill-sidc,  came  to  see  me.  He 
was  a  Turkish  officer  belonging  to  the  household  of  Kiamil  Pasha,  and 
complained  bitterly  of  his  solitude,  of  the  difficulties  of  collecting  the  taxes, 
and  of  dealing  with  the  Bedouins  who  haunted  the  plains.  The  villag«i 
on  the  northern  side  of  the  mountain  were  not  only  in  open  rebellion  to  his 
authority,  but  fighting  one  with  the  other ;  all,  however,  being  quite  of 
one  mind  in  refusing  to  contribute  to  the  public  revenues.     He  was  almost 


(hut  up  withia  the  walls  of  his  wretched  fort,  in  company  with  a  garrison 
of  a  score  of  half-starved  Albanians.  This  stale  of  things  was  chieHy 
owing  to  the  misconduct  of  his  prederessor,  who,  when  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Sirijar  were  quiet  and  obedient,  hud  treacherously  seized  two  of  their 
principal  chief's,  Mahmoud  and  Murad,  and  had  carried  thorn  in  chains  to 
Hoiul,  where  they  had  been  thrown  into  prison.  A.  deputation  having 
been  sent  to  obtain  their  release,  I  had  been  able  to  intercede  with  Kiamil 
Pasha  in  their  behalf,  and  now  bore  lo  their  followers  the  welcome  news 
of  their  speedy  return  to  their  homes. 

The  tent  was  soon  filled  with  the  people  of  the  Belled,  and  they  remain- 
ed in  animated  discussion  until  the  night  was  far  spent. 

Early  on  the  following  morning,  I  returned  the  visit  of  the  governor,  and, 
from  the  tower  of  the  small  castle,  took  bearings  of  the  principal  objects 
in  the  plain.  The  three  remarkable  peaks  rising  in  the  low  range  of 
Kebriteeyah,  behind  Abou  Khameera,  were  still  visible  in  the  extreme  dis- 
tance, and  enabled  me  to  fix  with  some  accuracy  the  position  of  many 
ruins.  They  would  be  useful  landmarks  in  a  survey  of  this  part  of  the 
desert.  About  four  or  five  miles  distant  from  the  Belled,  which,  like  the 
fort,  is  built  on  the  hill-side,  is  another  large  group  of  mounds,  resembling 
that  of  Abou  Khameera,  called  by  the  Bedouius  simply  the  "  Hosh,"  the 
courtyard  or  inclosure. 

The  ruins  of  the  ancient  town,  known  to  the  Arabs  as  "  El  Belled,"  or 
the  city,  are  divided  into  two  distinct  parts  by  a  range  of  rocky  hills,  which, 
horwever,  are  cleft  in  the  centre  by  the  bed  of  a  torrent,  forming  a  narrow 
ravine  between  them.  This  ravine  is  crossed  by  a  strong  well-built  wall, 
defended  by  a  dry  ditch  cut  into  the  solid  rock.  An  archway  admits  the 
torrent  into  the  southern  part  of  the  city,  which  appears  to  have  contained 
the  principal  edifices.  Tlie  northern  half  is  within  the  valley,  and  is  sur- 
Toanded  by  ruined  fortificatioDB.  I  could  find  no  traces  of  remains  of  any 
period  earlier  than  the  Mohammedan,  unless  the  dry  ditch  excavated  in  the 
rock  be  more  ancient ;  nor  could  I  obtain  any  relics,  or  coins,  from  the  in- 
habitants of  the  modern  village.  The  ruins  arc,  undoubtedly,  those  of  the 
town  of  S«irjar,  the  capital  of  an  Arab  principality  in  the  time  of  the  Ca- 
liphs. Its  princes  frequently  asserted  their  independence,  coined  money, 
and  ruled  from  the  Khabonrand  Euphrates  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Mosul. 
The  province  was  included  within  the  dominions  of  the  ceiebraled  Saleh- 
ed-din  (the  Saladin  of  the  Crusades),  and  waa  more  than  once  visited  by 
him. 

The  ruins  of  Sinjar  are  also  helieved  to  represent  the  Singara  of  the  Ro- 
mans. On  coins  stnick  under  the  Emperor  Qordian,  and  bearing  his  effigy 
with  that  of  the  Empress  Tranquillina.  this  city  is  represented  by  a  female 
weariug  a  mural  crown  surmounted  by  a  centaur,  seated  on  a  hill  trifh  a 
river  at  her  feet  (?)■•     According  to  the  Arab  geographers,  the  Sinjar  wa« 

•  Tliere  were  also  coins  of  Alexander  Sevorus,  struck  in  Sini.rara.  It  b  to  be  r«- 
inarked  that,  in  consequence  of  considerable  discrepancies  in  the  accounts  of  ancient 


212 


NINBVSH  AND  BABYLON. 


(Chap.  XI. 


celebrated  for  ita  palmi.     This  tree  is  no  longer  found  there,  nor  does  it 
bear  fruit,  I  believe,  anywhere  to  the  north  of  Tekrit  in  Mesopotamia. 


Roman  Coin  ofCordian  and  Tranqallllnii,  (track  at  Slltpira  cBrillah  MuMUin). 

"Wishing  to  visit  the  villages  of  the  Shonutl,  or  northern  side  of  the  mount- 
ain, and  at  iht"  same  lime  to  put  an  end.  if  possible,  to  the  bloodshed  be- 
tween their  iiiliaUitantB,  and  to  induce  them  to  submit  to  the  governor,  I 
quitted  the  Belled  in  the  afternoon,  acoompatiied  by  Cawal  Yusuf  and  his 
Yezidi  comfmnions,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  R.,  the  Doclor,  and  Mr.  Cooper.  The 
tents,  baggage,  and  workmen  were  left  under  the  charge  of  the  fiairak- 
dar.  Suttum  went  to  his  tribe  to  make  further  arrangements  for  our  jour- 
ney to  the  Kliabour. 

Wc  followed  a  jirecipitous  pathway  along  the  hill-side  to  Mirkon,  the 
village  destroyed  by  Tahyar  Pasha  on  my  first  visit  to  the  Sinjar.*  This 
part  of  the  mounlaiti  is  coated  with  tiiin  strata  ofa  white  l<)S8iliferous  hme- 
Btone,  which  detach  themselves  in  enormous  Hakes,  and  fall  into  the  val- 
leys and  ravines,  k-aviiig  an  endless  variety  of  singular  fonns  in  the  rocks 
above.  In  some  places  the  declivities  are  broken  into  stupendous  flights 
of  steps,  in  others  ihey  have  the  columnar  api)earance  of  basalt.  This 
limestone  produces  scarcely  a  blade  of  vegetation,  and  its  milk-white  color, 
throwing  back  the  intense  glare  of  the  sua's  rays,  is  both  painful  and  hurt- 
ful to  the  sight. 

Mirkiin  was  in  open  rebellion,  and  had  refused  both  to  pay  taxes  aud  to 
receive  the  officer  of  the  Pasha  of  Mosul.  1  was,  at  first,  somewhat  doubt- 
ful of  our  reception.  Esau,  the  chief,  came  out,  however,  to  meet  me,  and 
led  us  to  his  lunise.  We  were  soon  surrounded  by  the  principal  men  of  the 
village.  TliL-y  were  also  at  war  with  the  tribes  of  the  "Shomal."  A  few 
days  before  they  had  fought  with  the  loss  of  several  men  on  both  sides 
Seconded  by  Cawal  Yusuf,  I  endeavored  to  make  them  feel  that  peace  and 
union  amongst  themselves  was  not  only  essential  to  their  own  welfare,  but 
to  that  of  the  Yezidis  of  Kurdistan  and  Armenia,  who  bad,  at  length,  re- 
ceived a  promise  of  protection  from  the  Turkish  government,  and  who 

geographers,  several  authors  have  been  inclined  to  beliovo  thai  Hicro  werr  two  cities 
of  the  same  name ;  one,  according  to  Ptolemy,  on  the  Tigriii,  the  oilier  under  the 
mountain.     It  was  long  a  phicc  or  contention  between  tlie  Romans  and  Parthiana. 
•  Nineveh  and  ils  Remains,  vol.  i  p.  317 


would  Bufier  for  their  misdeeds.  After  &  lengthened  discuBsion  the  chief 
consented  to  accompany  me  to  the  neighbouring  village  ofBukra,  with  whose 
inhabitants  his  people  had  been  ("or  some  time  at  war. 

Mjrkan  had  been  partly  rebnilt  since  its  destruction  three  years  before; 
but  the  ruins  and  charred  timbers  of  houses  still  occupied  much  of  its  for- 
mer site.  We  crossed  the  entrance  to  (he  ravine  filled  with  caverns  into 
which  the  Yezidis  had  taken  refuge,  when  they  made  the  Buccessful  de- 
fence I  have  elsewhere  described. 

There  are  two  pathways  from  Mirkan  to  the  "  Shoraal,"  one  windinp 
through  narrow  valleys,  the  other  crossing  the  shoulder  of  the  mountain.  I 
choee  the  latter,  as  it  enabled  me  to  obtain  an  extensive  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country',  and  to  take  bearings  of  many  points  of  interest.  The 
slopes  around  the  villages  arc  most  indiistriougly  and  carefully  cultivated. 
Earth,  collected  with  great  labor,  is  spread  over  terraces,  supported  by  walls 
of  loose  stones,  as  on  the  declivities  of  Mount  Lebanon.  These  stages,  ris- 
ing one  above  the  other,  are  planted  with  fig-trces,  between  which  is  occa- 
sionally raised  a  scanty  crop  of  wheat  or  barley.  The  neatness  of  these 
terraced  plots  conveys  a  very  favorable  impression  of  the  industry  of  the 
Yezidis. 

Near  the  crest  of  the  hill  we  passed  a  white  conical  building,  shaded  by 
a  grove  of  trees.  It  was  the  tomb  of  the  father  of  Mura<l,  one  of  Yusuf's 
companions,  a  Gawal  of  note,  who  had  died  near  the  spot  of  the  |)lap-ue  some 
years  before.  The  walls  were  hung  with  the  horns  of  sheep,  slain  in  sacri- 
fice, by  occasional  pilgrims. 

I  had  little  anticipated  the  beauty  and  extent  of  the  view  wliioh  opened 
round  us  on  the  top  of  the  pass.  The  Hiiijar  hill  is  a  solitary  ridge  rising 
abruptly  in  the  midst  of  the  desert;  from  its  summit,  therefore,  the  e)'e 
rangeii  on  one  side  over  the  vast  level  wilderness  stretehiiig  to  the  Euphrates, 
and  on  the  other  over  the  plain  bounded  by  the  Tigris  and  the  lofty  mount- 
ains of  Kurdintan.  Nisiliin  and  Mardiii  were  both  visible  in  the  distaiii*<>.  1 
«K)uld  distinguiKh  the  hills  of  Baadri  and  Sheikh  Adi.nud  many  well-known 
peaks  of  the  Kurdish  Alps.  Behind  the  lower  ranges,  each  distinctly 
marked  by  its  sharp,  serrated  outline,  were  the  snow-covered  heights  of 
Tiyari  and  Bohtan.  Whilst  to  the  south  of  the  Sinjar  artificial  mounds  ap- 
peared to  abound,  to  the  north  I  could  distinguish  hut  few  such  remains. 
We  dismounted  to  gaze  upon  this  truly  magnificent  scene  lighted  up  by 
the  setting  sun.  I  have  rarely  seen  any  prospect  more  impressive  than 
these  boundless  plains  view«;d  from  a  considerable  elevation.  Besides  the 
idea  of  vaslness  they  convey,  the  light  and  itba<!e  of  passing  clouds  Hitting 
over  the  face  of  the  land,  and  the  shadows  as  they  lengthen  towards  the 
close  of  day,  produce  constanlly  changing  eflccts  of  singular  variety  and 
beauty.* 

•  Tlie  traveller  who  has  looked  down  from  Mardin,  for  the.  first  time,  upon  the  plains 
of  Mesopotamia,  can  never  forget  the  impression  which  that  singular  scene  iiuirt  have 
made  upon  him.     The  view  from  the  Sitijar  hill  is  far  more  beautiful  and  varied. 


314 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XI. 


It  WM  night  before  we  reached  Bukra,  where  we  were  welcomed  with 
great  hospitality.  The  best  house  in  the  village  had  been  made  ready  for 
U8,  aud  was  Bcrupulouely  nu^at  and  clean,  as  thu  houKea  of  the  Yczidis  usually 
are.  It  was  curiously  built,  being  divided  into  three  principal  rooms,  open- 
ing one  into  the  other.  They  were  separated  by  a  wall  about  six  feet  high, 
upon  which  were  placed  wooden  pillars  supporting  the  ceiling.  The  roof 
rested  on  trunks  of  trees,  raised  on  rude  stone  pedestals  at  regular  intervals 
in  the  centre  chamber,  which  was  open  on  one  side  to  the  air,  like  a  Per- 
sian I  wan.  The  sidea  of  the  rooms  wore  honeycombed  with  small  recesses 
like  pigeon-holes,  tastefully  arranged.  The  whole  was  plastered  with  the 
whitest  plaster,  fancy  designs  in  bright  red  being  inlroduced  here  and  there, 
aod  giving  the  interior  of  the  houee  a  very  original  appearance. 


•M 


m- 


''<**'.- 


v<l 


tk    il)J 


t4ll 


IM    ^ 


I/, 


Intarlor  oTa  Vnidl  tlouie  at  Bukra,  In  the  Slnjar. 


tThe  elders  of  Btikra  came  to  me  after  we  had  dined,  and  seated  them- 
selves respeclfuliy  aud  decorously  round  the  room.  They  were  not  averse 
to  the  reconciliation  I  proposed,  icceiveJ  the  hostile  chief  without  hesita- 
tion, and  promised  In  accompany  me  on  the  morrow  to  the  adjoining  village 
of  Ossofa,  with  which  they  were  also  at  war.  Amongst  those  who  had  fol- 
lowed us  was  an  active  and  intelligent  youth,  one  of  the  defenders  of  the 
caverns  when  the  Turkish  trcwps  undur  Tahyar  Pasha  attacked  Mirkan. 
He  related  with  great  spirit  and  zest  the  particulars  of  the  affair,  and  as- 


J 


Gbap.  XI.] 


RBCEPTION  AT  BUKIU. 


215 

I  iured  me  that  he  had  killed  several  men  with  his  own  gun.  He  wastkea 
but  a  boy,  and  it  was  the  first  time  he  had  seen  war.  His  father,  he  said, 
placed  a  rifle  in  his  hand,  and  pointing  to  a  soldier  who  was  scaling  the  rocki 

I     exclaimed,  "  Now,  show  me  whether  thou  art  a  man.  and  worthy  of  me. 

''  Shoot  that  enemy  of  our  faith,  or  I  will  shoot  you  I"  He  fired,  and  the  as- 
sailant rolled  back  into  the  ravine. 

In  the  morning  we  visited  several  houses  in  the  village.  They  were  all 
built  on  the  same  plan,  and  were  equally  neat  and  clean.  The  women  re- 
ceived us  without  concealing  their  faces,  which  are,  however,  far  from  pleaa- 
ing,  their  features  being  irregular,  and  their  complexion  sallow.  Those  who 
arc  marrieil  dress  entirely  in  white,  with  a  white  kerchief  under  their  chins, 
and  another  over  their  heads  held  by  the  agal,  or  woollen  cord,  of  the  Be- 
douins. The  girls  wear  white  shirts  and  drawers,  but  over  them  colored 
zabouns,  or  long  silk  dresses,  open  in  iront,  and  confined  at  the  waist  by  a 
girdle  ornomcnted  with  pieces  of  silver.  They  twist  gay  kerchiefs  round 
their  heads,  and  adorn  themselves  with  coins,  and  glass  and  amber  beads, 
when  their  parents  are  able  to  procure  them.  But  the  Yezidis  of  the  Sin- 
jar  are  now  very  poor,  and  nearly  ail  the  trinkets  of  the  women  have  long 
siace  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  Turkish  soldiery,  or  have  been  sold  to  pay 
taxe»  and  arbitrary  fines.  The  men  have  a  dark  complexion,  black  and 
ptorciiig  eyes,  and  frequently  a  fierce  and  forbidding  countenance.  They 
axe  of  small  stature,  but  have  well-proportioned  limbs  strongly  knit  together, 
and  are  muscular,  active,  and  capable  of  bearing  great  fatigue.  Their  dress 
eonsists  of  a  shirt,  loose  trowsers  and  cloak,  all  white,  and  a  black  turban, 
from  bi'neath  which  their  hair  falls  in  ringlets.  Their  long  rifles  are  rarely 
out  of  their  hands,  and  they  carry  pistols  in  their  girdle,  a  sword  at  their 
aide,  and  a  row  of  cartouche  cases,  generally  made  of  cut  reeds,  on  their 
breast.  These  additions  to  their  costume,  and  their  swarthy  features,  give 
them  a  peculiar  look  of  ferocity,  which,  according  to  some,  is  not  belied  by 
their  characters. 

The  Yezidis  are,  by  one  of  their  religious  laws,  forbidden  to  wear  the  com- 
moa  Eastern  shirt  open  in  front,  and  this  article  of  their  dress  is  always 
doaed  up  to  the  neck.  This  is  a  distinctive  mark  of  the  sect  by  which  its 
members  may  be  recognised  at  a  glance.  The  language  of  the  people  of  Sin- 
jar  is  Kurdish,  and  few  speak  Arabic.  According  to  their  traditions  they 
are  the  descendants  of  a  colony  from  the  north  of  Syria,  which  settled  in 
Mesopotamia  at  a  comparatively  recent  period,  but  I  could  obtain  no  posi- 
tive information  on  the  subject.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  they  did  not 
migrate  to  their  present  seats  before  the  fall  of  the  Arab  principality,  and 
the  invasion  of  Timourleng,  towards  the  end  of  the  fourteenth  century. 

The  north  side  of  the  mountain  is  thickly  inhabited,  and  well  cultivated 
as  far  as  the  scanty  soil  will  permit.  Scarcely  three  quarters  of  a  mile  to 
the  west  of  Bukra  is  the  village  of  Naksi,  the  interval  between  the  two  be- 
ing occupied  by  terraces  planted  with  fig-trees.  We  did  not  atop,  although 
the  inhabitants  came  out  to  meet  ns,  but  rode  on  to  Ossofa,  or  Usifa,  only 


4 


216 


NINEVKU  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XI 


aeparated  from  Naksi  by  a  rocky  valley.  The  people  of  this  village  were 
at  war  willi  their  neighboura,  and  as  this  was  one  of  the  principal  scats  of 
rebellion  and  discontent,  I  was  anxious  to  have  an  interview  with  its  chie£; 

The  position  orOssofa  is  very  picturesque.     It  stauds  on  the  edge  of 
deep  ravine;  behind  it  are  lofty  crags  and  narrow  gorges,  whose  sides  are 
filled  with  natural  caverns.     On  overhanging  rocks,  towering  above  the 
Tillage,  are  two  ziarehs,  or  holy  places,  of  the  Yezidis,  distinguished  from 
afar  by  their  white  fluted  spires, 

Fulo,  the  chief,  met  us  at  the  head  of  the  principal  inhabitants  and  led 
mo  to  his  house,  where  a  large  assembly  was  soon  collected  to  discuss  ti 
principal  object  of  my  visit.  The  chiefs  of  Mirkan  and  Bukra  were  induced 
to  make  ofTcrs  of  peace,  which  were  accepted,  and  after  much  discussion  the 
lerniB  of  an  amicable  arrangement  were  agreed  to  and  ratified  by  general 
consent.  Sheep  were  slain  to  celebrate  the  event.  The  meat,  after 
Yczidi  fashion,  was  boiled  in  onions,  and  a  kind  of  parched  pea,  and  afti 
wards  served  up,  like  porridge,  in  large  wooden  bowls.  The  mess  is  not 
uniavoury,  and  is  the  principal  dish  of  the  Siiijar.  Dried  figs,  strung  in 
rows  and  made  up  into  grotesque  figures,  were  brought  to  lu  as  presents. 
After  the  political  questions  had  been  settled,  the  young  men  adjourned  to 
Bn  o[R<n  spot  outside  the  village  to  practise  with  their  rifles.  They  proved 
excellent  shots,  seldom  missing  the  very  centre  of  the  mark. 

The  villages  of  Bouran  (now  deserted),  Gundi-Gajii,  Kushna,  and  Aldi- 
na,  follow  to  the  west  of  Ossofa,  scarcely  half  a  mile  intervening  between 
tach.  They  arc  grouped  together  on  the  mountain  side,  which,  above  and 
below  them,  is  divided  into  terraces  and  planted  with  fig-trees.  The  looie 
•tones  are  most  carefully  removed  from  every  plot  of  earth,  however  small, 
euid  built  up  into  walls  :  on  the  higher  slopes  arc  a  few  vineyards. 

Wo  passed  the  night  at  Aldina,  in  the  house  of  Miirad,  one  of  the  im- 
pntuuod  chiefs,  whose  release  I  had  obtained  before  leaving  Mosul.  I  was 
•blu  to  announce  the  good  tidings  of  his  approaching  return  to  his  wife,  to 
wlmiii  he  hud  been  lately  married,  and  who  had  given  birth  to  a  child  dur 
lug  Ilia  nliM'ricc. 

lUdciw  Aldina  stands  a  remarkable  z/arc/t,  inclosed  by  a  wall  of  cyclo- 

5*nn  diiuiuiitiiins.     In  the  plain  beneath,  in  the  midst  of  a  grove  of  trecs.ii 
(0  tontb  »>f  Cnwttl  Hussein,  the  father  of  Cawal  Yusnf,  who  died  in  the  Sin- 
|«)  iluHHK  uiio  of  his  periodical  visitations.     He  was  a  priest  of  sanctity 
,i|  iHlliiincn,  ami  his  grave  is  still  visited  as  a  place  of  pilgrimage.     Sac- 
ilhvM  id  ilit'vp  aro  made  there,  but  they  are  merely  in  remembrance  of  th« 
|M»d.  and  have  no  particular  religious  meaning  attached  to  them.    The 
i»  dlntrlliiitod  amongst  the  poor,  and  a  sum  of  money  is  frequently 
4      Ajipioviiig  the  ceremony  as  one  tending  to  promote  charity  and 
ytdl>  H<t»ltii|i.  I  K*^vo  a  sheep  to  be  sacrificed  at  the  tomb  of  the  Cawal, 
vtk*  ^^1  Itty  lollow-lravellerB  added  a  second,  the  carcases  b«ing  aflter- 
■    '  mnnna  the  needy. 

.,;>!•  wo  hud  passed  during  our^hort  day's  journey  stand  high 


i 


Chap.  XL] 


YKZIDl  SNAKE-CHARM  KRS. 


217 


on  the  moimiaia  side,  where  they  have  been  built  for  lecurity  against  the 
Bedouins.  They  command  extensive  views  of  the  plain,  the  white  bar- 
racks of  Nisibin,  although  certainly  between  twenty  and  thirty  miles  dis- 
tant, being  visible  from  them,  and  the  snowy  range  of  Kurdistan  forming 
a  magnificent  back  ground  to  the  picture.  The  springs,  rising  in  the  hill, 
axe  either  entirely  absorbed  in  irrigation,  or  are  soon  lost  in  the  thirsty 
plain  beneath.  Parallel  to  the  iiinjar  range  is  a  long  narrow  valley,  scarce- 
ly half  a  mile  iu  width,  formed  by  a  bold  ridge  of  white  limestone  rocks, 

friable  that  the  plain  for  some  distance  is  covered  with  their  fragment*. 

A  messenger  brought  me  word  during  the  night  that  Suttum  had  retiun- 
ed  from  his  tribe,  and  was  waiting  with  a  party  of  horsemen  to  escort  us 
to  his  tents.  I  determined,  therefore,  to  cross  at  once  to  the  Belled  by  a 
direct  though  difficult  pass.  The  Doctor  and  Mr.  R.,  leaving  the  path- 
way, scaled  the  rocks  in  search  of  the  ibex,  or  wild  goat,  which  abounds 
in  the  highest  ridges  of  the  mountain. 

We  visited  Nogray  and  Ameera  before  entering  the  gorge  leading  to 
the  pass.  Only  two  other  villages  of  any  importance,  Semoka  and  Jafri, 
were  left  unseen.  The  ascent  of  the  mountain  was  extremely  precipitous, 
and  we  were  nearly  two  hours  in  reaching  the  summit.  We  then  found 
ourselves  on  a  broad  green  platform  thickly  wooded  with  dwarf  oak.  I 
was  surprised  to  see  snow  still  lying  in  the  sheltered  nooks.  On  both  sides 
of  us  stretched  the  great  Mcsopotamian  plains.  To  the  south,  glittering 
iu  the  sun,  was  a  small  salt  lake  about  fifLcen  miles  distant  from  the  ii'ia- 
jar,  called  by  the  Arabs.  Munaif.  From  it  the  Bedouins,  when  in  their 
northern  pastures,  obtain  their  supplies  of  salt. 

We  descended  to  the  Belled  through  a  narrow  valley  thick  with  oak  and 
various  shrubs.  Game  appeared  to  abound.  A  Yezidi,  who  had  accom- 
panied us  from  Aldina,  shot  three  wild  boars,  and  we  put  up  several  coveys 
of  the  largo  red  partridge.  The  Doctor  and  Mr.  R.,  who  joined  us  soon 
after  we  had  reached  our  tents,  had  seen  several  wild  goats,  and  had  ibund 
a  carcase  half  devoured  by  the  wolves. 

In  the  valley  behind  the  Belled  we  passed  the  ruins  of  a  largo  deserted 
village,  whose  inhabitants,  according  to  Cawal  Yusuf,  had  been  entirely  de- 
stroyed by  the  plague.  We  were  nearly  five  hours  in  croBsing  the  mount- 
ain. 

Suttum  and  his  Bedouin  companions  were  waiting  for  us,  but  were  not 
anxious  to  start  before  the  following  morning.  A  Yezidi  snake-charmer, 
with  his  son,  a  boy  of  seven  or  eight  years  old,  came  to  my  tents  in  the 
aAemoon,  and  exhibited  his  tricks  in  the  midst  of  a  circle  of  astunished  be- 
holders. He  first  pulled  from  a  bag  a  number  of  snakes  knotted  together, 
which  the  bystanders  declared  to  be  of  the  most  venomous  kind.  The 
child  took  the  reptiles  fearlessly  from  bis  father,  and  placing  them  in  his 
bosom,  allowed  them  to  twine  themselves  round  his  neck  and  arms.  The 
Bedouins  gazed  in  mute  wonder  at  these  proceedings,  but  when  the  Sheikh, 
feigning  rage  against  one  of  the  snakes  which  had  drawn  blood  from  his 


216 


NflNEVBH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XI. 


son,  seized  it,  and  biting  off  its  head  with  his  teeth,  threw  the  writhing 

body  amongst  them,  they  could  no  longer  restrain  their  horror  and  indig- 
nation. They  uttered  loud  curses  on  the  infidel  snake-charmer  and  his 
kindred  to  the  remotest  generations.  Suttum  did  not  regain  his  compo- 
sure during  the  whole  evening,  frequently  relapsing  into  profound  thought, 
then  suddenly  breaking  out  in  a  fresh  curse  upon  the  Sheikh,  who,  ha 
declared,  had  a  very  close  and  unholy  connection  with  the  evil  one.  Many 
days  passed  before  he  had  completely  got  over  the  horror  the  poor  Yezidi's 
feats  had  caused  him. 

The  poisonous  teeth  of  the  snakes  which  the  Sheikh  carried  with  him 
had  probably  been  drawn,  although  he  oflcrcd  to  practise  upon  any  epoci- 
mens  we  might  procure  for  him.  I  did  not,  however,  deem  it  prudent  to 
put  him  to  the  test.  The  ruins  of  the  Sinjar  abound  with  these  reptiles,  and 
I  had  seen  msiny  amongst  them.  That  most  commonly  found  is  of  a  dark 
brown  color,  nearly  approaching  to  black,  and,  I  believe,  harmless.  I  have 
met  with  them  above  six  feet  in  length,  Others,  however,  are  of  a  more 
dangerous  character,  and  the  Bedouins  are  ia  great  dread  of  them. 

f^uttum  had  changed  his  deloul  for  a  white  mare  of  great  beauty,  named 
Athaiba  She  was  of  the  race  oi"  Kohaila,  of  exquisite  symmetry,  in  tem- 
per docile  as  a  lamb,  yet  with  an  eye  of  fire,  and  of  a  proud  and  noble  car- 
riage when  excited  in  war  or  in  the  chase.  His  saddle  was  the  simple 
stuffed  pad  generally  used  by  the  Bedouins,  without  stirrups.  A  haltor 
alone  served  to  guide  the  gentle  animal.  Suttum  bad  brought  with  him 
several  of  the  principal  members  of  his  familVr  all  of  whom  were  mounted 
on  high-bred  mares.  One  youth  rode  a  bay  filly,  for  which,  I  was  assured, 
one  hundred  camels  had  been  offered. 

We  followed  a  pathway  over  the  broken  ground  at  the  foot  of  the  Sin- 
jar,  crossing  deep  watercourses  worn  by  the  small  streams,  which  lose 
themselves  in  the  desert.  The  villages,  as  on  the  opposite  slope,  or 
"  Shoraal,"  are  high  up  on  the  hill-side.  The  first  we  passed  was  Gaba- 
ra,  inhabited  by  Yezidia  and  Mussulmans.  Its  chief,  Ruffo,  with  a  party 
of  horsemen,  came  to  us,  and  entreated  me  to  show  him  how  to  open  a 
spring  called  Soidnk,  which,  he  said,  had  suddenly  been  choked  up,  leav- 
ing the  village  almost  without  water.  Unfortunately,  being  ignorant  of 
the  art  for  which  he  gave  me  credit,  1  was  unable  to  afford  him  any  help. 
Beyond  Gabara,  and  nearer  to  the  plain,  we  saw  some  modern  ruins  named 
Werdiyat,  and  encamped,  after  a  short  ride,  upon  a  pleasant  stream  beneath 
the  village  of  Jedaila. 

We  remained  hero  a  whole  day  in  order  to  visit  Suttum's  tribe,  which 
was  now  migrating  towards  the  Sinjar.  Early  in  the  moniing  a  vait 
crowd  of  moving  objects  could  be  faintly  perceived  on  the  horizon.  These 
were  the  camels  and  sheep  of  the  Boraij,  followed  by  the  usual  crowd  of 
men,  women,  children,  and  beasts  of  burden.  We  watched  them  as  they 
scattered  themselves  over  the  plain,  and  gradually  settled  in  different  pas- 
tures.    By  midday  the  encampment  had  been  formed  and  all  the  strag- 


Chap.  XI.l  ^"''' '"'  shaikh  rishwan.  219 

glen  collected.  We  could  scarcely  diBtingiiiib  the  black  tents,  and  their 
site  was  only  marked  by  curling  wreaths  of  white  smoke. 

In  the  afternoon  Sultum'a  father,  Rishwan,  came  to  us,  accompanied  by 
several  Sheikhs  of  the  Boraij.  He  rode  on  a  white  deloul  celebrated  for 
her  beauty  and  Bwiftness.  His  saddle  and  the  neck  of  the  animal  were 
profusely  adorned  with  woollen  tassels  of  many  colors,  glass  beads,  and 
email  shell*,  after  the  manner  of  the  Arabs  of  Nejd.  The  well-trained 
dromedary  having  knelt  at  the  door  of  my  tent,  the  old  man  alighted, 
and,  throwing  his  arms  round  my  neck,  kissed  me  on  both  shoulders.  He 
was  tail,  and  of  noble  carriage.  His  beard  was  white  with  age,  but  his 
form  was  still  erect  and  his  footsteps  firm.  Rishwan  was  one  of  the  brav- 
est warriors  of  the  Shaminar.  He  had  come,  when  a  child,  with  his  fa- 
ther from  the  original  seat  of  the  tribe  in  northern  Arabia.  As  the  leader 
of  a  large  branch  of  the  Boraij  he  had  taken  a  prominent  part  in  the  wart 
of  the  tribe,  and  the  young  men  still  sought  him  to  head  their  distant  fo- 
rays. But  he  had  long  renounced  the  toils  of  the  gazou,  and  left  his  three 
sons,  of  whom  Suttum  was  the  second,  to  maintain  the  honor  of  the  Baadi. 
He  was  a  noble  specimen  of  the  true  Bedouin,  both  in  character  and  ap- 
pearance. With  the  skill  and  daring  of  the  Arab  warrior  he  united  the 
hospitality,  generosity,  and  good  faith  ol"  a  hero  of  Arab  romance.  He 
gpoke  in  the  rich  dialect  of  the  desert  tongue,  with  the  eloquence  peculiar 
to  his  ruse.  He  sat  with  me  during  the  greater  part  of  the  afternoon,  and 
having  eaten  bread  returned  to  his  tent. 

The  Yezidi  chiefs  of  Kerraniyah  or  Sekkiniyah  (the  village  is  known  by 
both  names)  came  to  our  encampment  soon  after  Rishwan's  arrival.  As 
they  had  a  feud  with  the  Bedouins,  I  look  advantage  of  their  visit  to  efiect 
a  reconciliation,  both  parties  swearing  on  my  hospitality  to  abstain  from 
plundering  one  another  hereafter.  The  inhabitants  of  this  village  and  of 
Semokiyah  give  tithes  of  produce  (and  abo  of  property  taken  in  forays)  to 
Hussein  Bey  alone  ;  whilst  others  pay  tithes  to  Sheikh  Nasr  as  well  as  to 
the  chief 

Being  anxious  to  reach  the  end  of  our  journey  I  declined  Suttum's  invi- 
tation to  sleep  in  his  tent,  but  sending  the  caravan  to  the  place  appointed 
for  our  night's  encampment,  I  made  a  detour  to  visit  his  father,  accompa- 
nied by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  R.,  the  Doctor,  Mr.  C.  and  Hormuzd.  Although  the 
Boraij  were  above  six  miles  from  the  small  rivulet  of  Jedaila,  they  were 
obliged  to  send  to  it  for  water.*  As  we  rodo  towards  their  tents  we  passed 
their  camels  and  sheep  slowly  wandering  towards  the  stream.  The  cam- 
els, spreading  far  and  wide  over  the  plain,  were  divided  according  to  their 
colors  ;  some  herds  being  entirely  white,  some  yellow,  and  others  brown  or 

*  In  the  spring  months,  when  the  pastures  are  good,  the  sheep  and  camels  of  the 
Bedouins  require  but  little  water,  and  the  tents  are  seldom  (>iti;hed  near  a  well  or 
stream ;  frpijuctuly  as  much  as  half  a  day's  journey  distant.  Suttum  assured  me 
tliat  at  this  time  of  the  year  the  camels  need  not  be  watered  for  two  months,  such  is 
the  richness  of  the  grass  of  the  Desert. 


^ 


:J 


with  the  Ancyza.    The  Raffidi,  however,  a  large  section  of  the  Aneyza,  hare  left 
their  kindred,  and  arc  now  incorporated  with  the  Shammar. 

t  It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  the  Bedouins  never  ride  horses ;  for  several  reft- 
sons,  however,  they  seldom  do  so. 


«1 


-I 

.J 

—J 


220  MINBTKH  AND  BASTUN.  [ChaP.  XL 

black.  Each  animal  boie  the  well-known  mark  of  the  tribe  branded  on 
his  side.  The  Arabs,  who  drove  them,  were  mounted  on  dromedarie*  car- 
rying the  capacious  rouuris,  or  buckets  made  of  bullock  akina,  in  which 
water  is  brought  to  the  encampment  for  domestic  purposes. 

A  Bedouin  warrior,  armed  with  his  long  tufted  apear,  and  urging  hii 
fleet  deloul,  occasionally  passed  rapidly  by  us  leading  his  high-bred  mare 
to  water,  followed  by  her  colt  gambolling  unrestrained  over  the  greensward. 
In  the  throng  we  met  Sahiman,  the  elder  brother  of  Suttum.     Ho  waa  rid-  '"■* 

ing  on  a  bay  horse,  whose  fame  had  spread  far  and  wide  amongst  the  tribes, 
and  whoso  exploits  were  a  constant  theme  of  praise  and  wonder  with 
the  Shammar.  He  was  of  the  race  of  Obeyan  Sherakh,  a  breed  now  al- 
most extinct,  and  perhaps  more  highly  prized  than  any  other  of  the  Deaert. 
He  had  established  his  fame  when  but  two  years  old.  Ferhan,  with  the 
principal  warriors  of  the  Khurusseh,*  had  crossed  the  Euphrates  to  plun- 
der the  Aneyza.  They  were  met  by  a  superior  force,  and  were  completely  "^ 
defeated.  The  best  mares  of  the  tribe  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy,  >  "^ 
and  the  bay  colt  alone,  although  followed  by  the  fleetest  horaea  of  the  ^ 
Aneyza,  distanced  his  pursuers.f  Such  noble  qualities,  united  with  the  ^■ 
purest  blood,  rendered  him  worthy  to  be  looked  upon  as  the  public  property  "^ 
of  the  Shammar,  and  no  sum  of  money  would  induce  his  owner  to  part  ^~^ 
with  him.  With  a  celebrated  bay  horse  belonging  to  the  Hamoud,  a  •'* 
branch  of  the  same  tribe,  he  was  set  apart  to  propagate  the  race  of  the  ^-i 
finest  horses  in  Mesopotamia.  In  size  he  was  small,  but  large  in  bone  and  iE» 
of  excellent  proportions.  On  all  sides  I  heard  extraordinary  instances  o£  '2' 
his  powers  of  endurance  and  speed. 

Near  the  encampment  of  the  Boraij  was  a  group  of  mounds  resembling  "St 

in  every  respect  those  I  have  already  described.  The  Bedouins  call  them 
Abou-Khaima.  Are  these  singular  ruins  those  of  towns  or  of  temples  ? 
Their  similarity  of  form, — a  centre  mound  divided  into  a  series  of  terraces, 
ascended  by  an  inclined  way  or  steps,  and  surrounded  by  equilateral  walls, 
— would  lead  to  the  conjecture  that  they  were  fire  temples,  or  vast  altan, 
destined  for  Astral  worship.  It  will  be  seen  hereafter  that  the  well-known 
ruin  of  the  Birs  Nimroud,  on  or  near  the  site  of  ancient  Babylon,  is  very  ~^ci 

*  Five  scots  or  subdivisions  of  the  great  tribe  of  Shammar,  renowned  for  their  brav- 
ery and  virtues,  and  supposed  to  be  descended  from  the  same  stock,  are  so  called. 
Their  hereditary  (ihief  is  Ferhan.  To  belong  to  the  Khurusseh  is  an  honorable  dis- 
tinction amongst  the  Shammar.  The  five  septs  are  the  Boraij,  the  Fedagha,  the 
Alayian,  the  Chishm,  and  the  Hathba ;  of  this  last,  and  of  the  family  of  Ahl-Moham- 
med,  was  the  celebrated  Bedouin  chief  Sofuk.  The  other  clans  forming  the  tribe  of 
Shammar  are  the  Abdc,  Assaiyah  (divided  into  As-Subhi  and  AI-.\slam),  Thabet,  Ha- 
moud, Theghavgheh,  Ghatha,  Dhirayrie,  Ghufayla,  and  Azumail.  All  these  tribes 
are  again  divided  into  numerous  septs.    The  Assaiyah  have  nearly  all  crossed  the  ^*'* 

Euphrates,  owing  to  a  blood  feud  with  the  rest  of  the  Shammar,  and  have  united  .*»"<' 


.tA 


:0Tft 


OhAP.  XL!  «NCAMPMENT  OF  THE  BORAU. 

nearly  the  same  in  shape.  When  I  come  to  dcBcriba  thoac  remarkable  re- 
mains, I  will  add  some  further  observations  upon  their  original  furin. 

The  Bedouins  who  accompanied  us  g'alloped  to  and  fro,  cuf^uging  in 
mimic  war  with  their  lung  ijuivcring  spears,  until  we  reached  the  encamp- 
ment of  the  Boraij.  The  tents  were  scattered  far  and  wide  over  the  plain ; 
for  so  they  are  pitched  during  this  season  of  the  year  when  the  pastures  are 
abundant,  and  no  inunediale  danger  is  apprehended  from  hostile  tribes. 
At  other  times  they  are  ranged  in  parallel  lines  close  together,  the  Sheikh 
always  occupying  the  ibremost  place,  facing  the  side  from  which  the  guest, 
as  well  as  the  enemy,  is  expected,  that  he  may  be  the  (irst  to  exercise  hos- 
pitality, and  the  first  to  meet  the  foe.  This  position,  however,  varies  in 
winter,  when  the  tent  must  be  closed  completely  on  one  side,  according  to 
the  prevailing  wind,  so  that  when  the  wind  changes,  the  whole  camp  sud- 
denly, as  it  were,  turns  round,  the  last  tent  becoming  the  foremost.  It  is 
thought  unmannerly  to  approach  by  the  back,  to  step  over  the  tent-ropes, 
or  to  ride  towards  the  woman's  compartment,  which  is  almost  always  on 
the  right.  During  warm  weather  the  whole  canvass  is  raised  on  pules  to 
allow  the  air  to  circulate  freely,  a  curtain  being  used  in  the  morning  and 
evening  to  ward  ofl"  the  rays  of  the  sun.  The  Bedouin  can  tell  at  once, 
when  drawing  near  to  an  encampment,  the  tent  of  the  Sheikh.  It  is  gen- 
erally distinguished  by  its  size,  and  freqiucntiy  by  the  spears  standing  in 
front  of  it.  If  the  stranger  be  not  coming  directly  towards  it,  and  wishes 
to  be  the  guest  of  the  chief,  he  goes  out  of  his  way,  that  on  approaching  he 
may  ride  at  oure  to  it  without  passing  any  other,  as  it  is  considered  ua- 
courteous  and  almost  an  insult  to  go  by  a  man's  tent  without  stopping  and 
eating  his  bread.  The  owner  of  a  tent  has  even  the  riglit  to  claim  any  one 
as  his  guest  who  passes  in  front  of  it  on  entering  an  encampment. 

Rishwan,  Suttum,  Mijwell  his  younger  brother,  and  the  elders  of  the 
tribe,  were  standing  before  the  tent  ready  to  receive  us.  All  the  old  car- 
peta  and  coverletK  of  the  family,  and  ragged  enough  they  were,  had  been 
spread  out  for  their  guests.  As  we  seated  ourselves  two  sheep  were  slain 
before  us  for  the  feast ;  a  ceremony  it  would  not  have  been  considered  suf- 
ficiently hospitable  to  perform  previous  to  our  arrival,  as  it  might  have  been 
doubtful  whether  the  animals  had  been  slain  wholly  for  us.  The  chief 
men  of  the  encampment  collected  round  us,  crouching  in  a  wide  circle  on 
the  grass.  We  talked  of  Arab  politics  and  Arab  war,  gliazous  and  Ancyza 
mares  stolen  or  carried  ofTin  battle  by  the  Shammar.  Huge  wooden  plat- 
ters, heavy  with  tlie  steaming  messes  of  rice  and  boiled  meat,  were  soon 
brougiit  in  and  placed  on  the  ground  before  us.  Immense  lumps  of  fresh 
butter  were  then  heaped  Ujx>n  them,  and  allowed  to  melt,  the  chief  occa- 
sionally mixing  and  kneading  the  whole  up  together  with  his  hands. 
When  the  dishes  had  cooled*  the  venerable  Kishwaa  stood  up  in  thcoen- 

•  It  is  considered  exceedingly  inlioa[>itablR  amongst  the  Shammar  lo  place  a  hot 
dish  before  guests,  aa  they  are  obliged  to  eat  quickly  out  of  consideration  for  others, 
who  are  awaiting  their  turn,  which  they  cannot  do,  unless  the  mesa  be  cool,  without 


^flNEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XI 


tn  of  the  tent,  anrl  called  in  a  loud  voice  upon  each  person  by  name  and 
in  his  turn  to  come  to  the  feast.  We  fared  first  with  a  few  of  the  princi- 
pal Sheikhs.  The  most  influential  men  were  next  summoned,  each  how 
[«ver  resisting  the  honor,  and  allowing  himself  to  be  dragged  by  Suttum 
and  Mijwell  to  his  place.  The  children,  as  usual,  were  admitted  last,  and 
wound  up  the  entertainment  by  a  general  scramble  for  the  fragments  and 
the  bones.  Neither  Rishwan  nor  his  sons  would  eat  of  the  repast  they 
had  prepared,  the  laws  of  hospitality  requiring  that  it  should  be  left  en- 
tirely to  their  guests. 

After  we  had  eaten,  I  accompanied  Mrs.  R.  to  the  harem,  where  we 
found  assembled  the  wives  and  daughters  of  Rishwan,  of  his  sons,  and  of 

the  eiders  of  the  tribe,  who  had  met  to- 
gether to  see  the  Frank  lady.  Amonpt 
them  were  several  of  considerable  beaa- 
ly.  The  wife  of  Sahiman,  the  eldest  of 
the  three  brothers,  was  most  distinguish- 
ed for  her  good  looks.  They  were  all 
dressed  in  the  usual  long  blue  shirt,  and 
striped,  or  black,  abba,  with  a  black 
hcadkerchief,  or  keffieh,  confineil  by  a 
band  of  spun  camel's  wool.  Massive 
rings  of  silver,  adorned  with  gems  and 
coral,  hung  from  their  noses,*  and  brace- 
lets in  the  same  metal,  and  also  set  with 
precious  stones, encircled  their  wnsts  and 
ankles.  Some  wore  necklaces  of  coins, 
coarse  amber,  agate,  cornelian  beads  and 
cylinders,  mostly  Assyrian  relics  picked 
up  amongst  ruina  after  rain.  These  ornaments  were  confined  to  the  un- 
married girls,  and  to  the  youngest  and  prettiest  wives,  who  on  waxing  old 
are  obliged  to  transfer  thetn  to  a  more  favored  successor. 

When  Bedouin  ladies  leave  their  tents,  or  are  on  a  march,  they  some- 
times wear  a.  black  Iterchief  over  the  lower  part  of  the  face,  showing  only 
their  sparkling  eyes.  Like  the  men  they  also  use  the  keffieh,  or  head-ker- 
chief, to  cover  their  features.  Their  complexion  is  of  a  dork  rich  olive. 
Tliuir  eyes  are  large,  almond-shaped,  expressive,  and  of  extraordinary  biill- 
ioiicy  and  lire.     They  sufier  their  black  and  luxuriant  hair  lo  fall  in  clus- 

buming  their  mouths,  or  wasting  half  their  time  picking  out  the  colder  bits.  On  one 
OOoaaiuti,  FerhaTi,  tlio  preat  chief  of  the  Shammar.  and  a  large  number  of  horsemen 
having  aiinlilnl  ill  my  tent,  I  prepared  a  dinner  for  them.  Th«  Kheikh  was  aftei- 
irda  heani  tu  say  that  the  Bey'.%  feast  wbh  sumptuous,  but  that  he  had  not  treatrd 
gUMta  with  (iTiifHT  hospitality,  as  the  dishes  were  so  liot  nobody  could  cat  his  fill 
'  TImm  are  "  the  rings  and  nose  jewels,"  which  Isaiah  (iii.  31 ,)  describes  as  worn 
the  Jewish  women.  It  is  curiutia  that  no  rppresenlatinn  of  them  has  hitherto  been 
ill  the  AKsynan  sriilptiires.  I  take  ihis  niijOTrluiiity  uf  mentioning,  that  I  MM 
>  (ingcr-rmx  sculptured  on  a  fragment  at  Khorsabad. 


Anb  Nose  Ring  uid  Br«cel«[  ufSilTcx. 


ters  of  curls.  Their  carriage  in  youth  is  erect  and  graceful.  They  are  able 
to  bear  much  fatigue,  and  show  great  courage  and  spirit  in  momenta  of 
difficulty  and  danger.  But  Iheir  beauty  ia  only  the  companion  of  extreme 
youth.  With  few  exceptions,  soon  after  twenty,  and  the  birth  of  one  or  two 
children,  they  rapidly  change  into  the  most  hideous  of  old  hags,  the  light- 
ning-like brightnes*  of  the  eye  alone  surviving  the  general  wreck.  When 
young,  the  daughters  and  wives  of  the  chiefs  are  well  cared  for  ;  they  move 
with  the  tribe  in  the  covered  camel-saddle,  shaded  by  carpets  from  the  rays 
of  the  8uu.  Daughters  are  looked  upon  in  the  Desert*  as  a  source  of  strength 
and  advantage,  from  the  alliances  they  enable  the  father  to  make  with 
powerful  and  influential  chiefs,  being  frequently  the  means  of  healing  feuda 
which  have  existed  for  many  years. 

The  children  of  Rishwan's  family  were  naked,  and,  of  course,  dirty.  One 
who,  singularly  enough  for  a  Bedouin,  had  light  flaxen  hair  and  blue  eyea, 
was  un  this  account  supposed  to  bear  a  striking  likeness  to  Mr.  C,  and  had, 
consequently,  been  nicknamed  the  Muiauer,  the  artist,  o,  name  by  which 
he  will  probably  be  known  lor  the  rest  of  his  days. 

Before  we  left  the  encampment  Suttum  led  before  me  as  a  present  a  hand- 
some grey  colt,  which  was  as  usual  returned  with  a  request  to  take  care 
of  it  until  it  was  required,  the  polite  way  to  decline  a  gifl  of  this  nature. f 

Suttum  having  saddled  his  deloul  was  ready  to  accompany  us  on  our 
journey.  As  he  was  to  be  for  some  time  absent  from  his  tents,  he  asked  to 
take  his  wife  with  him,  and  I  willingly  consented.  Rathaiyah  was  the 
sister  of  JSuttam  el  Mcekh,  chief  of  the  powerful  tribe  of  the  Abde,  one  of 
the  principal  divisions  of  the  Shammar.  Although  no  longer  young  she 
Still  retained  much  of  her  early  beauty.  There  was  more  than  the  usual 
Bedouin  fire  in  her  large  black  eyes,  and  her  hair  fell  in  many  ringlets  on 
her  shoulders.     Her  temper  was  haughty  and  imperious,  and  she  evidently 

•  Amongst  the  inhabitants  of  towns,  a  daughter  is  considered  a  kind  of  flaw  in  the 
fimily,  and  the  death  of  a  girl,  loo  frequently  purposely  brought  aboat,  is  rarely  a 
cause  of  grief. 

t  As  this  was  known  to  lie  a  mere  matter  of  form  with  me,  as  I  made  it  a  rule 
never  to  accept  presents  or  this  kind,  Suttum  might  hare  oflercd  ine  his  bay  colt,  the 
most  valuable  Iiorse  amongst  the  Shammar,  to  incre.isc  the  display  of  hospitiility. 
The  reason  he  did  not  was  this,  that  aUhoiit;h  he  knew  I  would  have  returned  the 
horse,  T  might  have  expressed  a  wish  tf>  buy  it,  and  have  offered  a  price.  An  offer 
of  this  kind  would  have  at  once  injured  the  value  of  the  animal  in  the  eyes  of  thf  Be- 
douins, and  Its  owner  might  have  heen  ultimately  comjielled  to  sell  it.  On  one  oo 
casion,  when  I  wna  amungst  the  ShammaT.  at  Al  Halher,  an  Arab  rode  into  my  en- 
campment on  a  I>cau1ifui  grey  cult.  1  was  so  much  struck  with  the  nnimal,  that  I  at 
once  expressed  a  wisli  to  its  rider  to  purchase  it.  He  merely  intimated  that  the  sum 
I  named  was  beneath  the  value.  I  im-rpaaed  it,  but  he  only  shook  his  hcail,  ami  rnAe 
off.  Nevertheless,  the  report  spread  araong.st  the  tribes  that  he  had  daruained  for  the 
sale  ofhis  horse.  Although  of  the  beMt  hlonti,  the  animal  w^s  looked  upon  vvith  sus- 
picion by  the  Bedouins,  and  the  owner  was,  some  inontlis  after,  obliged  to  sell  him 
at  a  lower  price  than  I  had  bid,  to  a  horse-dealer  of  Mosul !  A  knowledge  of  such 
little  prejudices  and  customs  is  very  necessary  in  dealing  with  the  Arabs  of  the  De«- 
ert,  who  are  extremely  seositivei  and  easily  offended. 


A 


NOnVKH  AM)  BAfiYlON. 


(Chap.  XI. 


hold  more  sway  over  Suttum  than  he  liked  to  acknowledge,  or  was  quite 
consistent  with  his  character  as  a  warrior.  He  had  married  her  from  mo- 
tives of  policy,  as  cementing  an  useful  aJliance  with  a  powerful  tribe.  She 
appears  to  have  soon  carried  matters  with  a.  high  hand,  for  poor  Suttum 
had  been  compelled,  almost  immediately  after  his  marriage,  to  send  back 
a  young  and  beautiful  wife  to  her  father's  tent.  This  prior  claimant  upon 
his  affections  was  now  on  the  Khabour  with  her  tribe,  and  it  was  probably 
on  this  account  that  Rathaiyah,  knowing  the  direction  he  was  about  to  take, 
was  80  anxious  to  accompany  her  husband.  She  rode  ou  the  dromedary  be- 
hind her  lord,  a  comfortable  scat  having  been  made  for  her  with  a  rug  and 
coverlet.  The  Sheikh  carried  his  hawk,  Hattab,  on  his  wrist,  guiding  the 
deloul  by  a  short  hooked  stick  held  in  the  right  hand.  Khoraif,  his  redifl", 
rode  on  this  occasion  a  second  dromedary  named  Sheaila,  with  a  Shonimar 
Bedouin. 

The  true  Sinjar  mountain  ends  about  nine  miles  from  Jedaila,  the  high 
ridge  suddenly  subsiding  into  low  broken  hills.  From  all  parts  of  the  plain 
it  is  a  very  beautiful  object.  Its  limestniie  rocks,  wooded  here  and  there 
with  dwarf  oak,  are  of  a  rich  golden  color ;  and  the  numberless  r&vinei, 
which  furrow  its  sides,  form  ribs  of  deep  purple  shadow.  The  western 
part  of  the  Sinjar  is  inhabited  by  the  Yezidi  tribe  of  Kherraniyah.  We 
rode  over  the  plain  in  a  parallel  line  to  the  mountain,  and  about  seven  or 
eight  miles  from  it.  Towards  nightfall  we  skirted  a  ridge  of  very  low  hiUs 
rising  to  our  left.     Thoy  are  called  Alouvi  and  Yusuf  Beg. 

The  Desert  abounded  in  the  houbara,  or  middle-sized  bustard,  the  bird 
usually  hawked  by  the  Arabs,  and  esteemed  by  them  a  great  delicacy. 
Hattab  had  been  principally  trained  to  this  game,  and  sat  on  the  raised 
wrist  of  Suttum,  scanning  the  plain  with  his  piercing  eye.  He  saw  the 
crouching  quarry  long  before  wo  could  distinguish  it,  and  spreading  his 
wings  struggled  to  release  himself  from  the  tresses.  Once  free,  he  made  one 
straight,  steady  swoop  towards  the  Inistard,  which  rose  to  meet  the  coming 
foe,  but  was  soon  borne  down  in  his  sharp  talons.  A  combat  ensued,  which 
was  ended  by  a  horseman  riding  up,  substituting  the  lure  for  the  game, 
and  hooding  the  hawk,  which  was  again  placed  on  its  master's  wrist. 

Thus  we  rode  joyously  over  the  plain,  night  sotting  in  before  we  could 
•ee  the  tents.  No  sound  except  the  mournful  note  of  the  small  desert  owl, 
which  has  often  misled  the  weary  wanderer,*  broke  the  deep  silence,  not 
could  we  distinguish  the  distant  fires  usually  marking  the  site  of  an  en- 
campment. Suttum,  however,  well  knew  where  the  Bedouins  would  halt, 
and  about  an  hour  after  dark  we  heard  the  well-known  voice  of  Dervish, 
and  others  of  my  workmen,  who,  anxious  at  otir  delay,  had  come  out  to 
teek  us.  The  tents  stood  near  a  muddy  pool  of  salt  water,  thick  with 
loathsome  living  things  and  camels'  dung,  The  Arabs  call  the  place  Om- 
el-Dhibati,  "  the  mother  of  flies,"  from  the  insects  which  swarm  around  it. 

»  Its  note  rea^-tnWes  the  cry  of  the  catnel-driver,  when  leading  the  herds  hoive  at 
nighi,  for  wliicli  it  i,s  frequpntly  tiiislakcn. 


Obap.  XL] 


EWCAKPMINT  AT  OH-SI^DHIBiiy. 


and  madden  by  their  sting  the  c&mela  and  horses  that  drink  at  the  stag- 
nant water. 

Our  encampment  was  full  ofYezidis  of  the  Kherraniyah  tribe,  who  had 
ridden  from  Ihe  tents  to  see  me.  brinfjiivg  presents  of  sheep,  flour,  and  figs. 
They  were  at  war,  both  with  the  Bedouins  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  north- 
ern side  of  the  mountain.  My  large  tent  was  soon  crowded  with  guests. 
They  squatted  down  on  the  ground  in  double  ranks.  For  the  last  lime  I 
spoke  on  the  advantage  of  peace  and  union  amongst  themselves,  and  I  ex- 
acted from  them  a  solemn  promise  that  they  would  meet  the  assembled 
tribes  at  the  next  great  festival  in  the  valley  of  Sheikh  Adi,  referring  their 
difierenees  in  future  to  the  decision  of  Hussein  Bey,  Sheikh  Nasr,  and  the 
Cawals,  instead  of  appealing  to  arms.  I  also  reconciled  them  with  the  Be- 
douins, Suttum  entering  into  an  engagement  for  his  tribe,  and  both  parties 
agreeing  to  abstain  from  lifting  each  other's  flocks  when  they  should  again 
meet  in  the  pastures  at  the  foot  of  the  hills.  The  inhabitants  of  the  Sin- 
jar  are  too  powerful  and  independent  to  pay  kowee,*  or  black-mail,  to  tb« 
Sh&mmar,  who,  indeed,  stand  in  much  awe  of  their  Yczidi  enemies.  They 
frequently  raise  their  annual  revenues,  and  enrich  themselves  almost  en- 
tirely, at  the  expense  of  the  Arabs.  They  watch  their  opportunity,  when 
the  tribes  are  migrating  in  the  spring  and  autumn,  and  falling  by  night  on 
their  encampments,  plunder  their  tents,  and  drive  off  their  cattle.  Return- 
ing to  the  hills,  they  can  defy  in  their  fastnesses  the  revenge  of  the  Bedouins. 

The  Yezidis  returned  to  their  encampment  late  at  night,  but  about  a 
hundred  of  their  horsemen  were  again  with  me  before  the  tents  were  struck 
in  the  nijtrning.  They  promised  to  fullil  the  engagements  entered  into  on 
th«  previous  evening,  and  accompanied  mo  for  some  miles  on  our  day's 
jonmey.  Cawal  Yusuf  returned  with  them  on  his  way  back  to  Mosul.  It 
was  agreed  that  he  should  buy,  at  the  annual  auction,  the  Mokhatta,  or 
revenues  of  the  Sinjar.t  and  save  the  inhabitants  from  the  tyranny  and  ex- 
actions of  the  Turkish  tax-gatherer.  I  wrote  letters  for  him  to  the  author- 
ities of  Mosul,  recommending  such  an  arrangement,  as  equally  beneficial  to 
the  tranquillity  of  the  mountain  and  the  treasury  of  the  Pasha. t 

•  I jteraily,  "  strcngth-niMcy  ;"  the  small  trihea,  who  wander  in  ihc  Desert,  and 
who  inhabit  the  villages  upon  its  edge,  are  obliged  to  place  themselves  under  the  pro- 
tection of  some  powerful  tribe  to  avoid  being  utterly  destroyed.  Each  (jrcat  division 
of  the  Shaiiimar  receives  a  present  of  money,  sheep,  camels,  com,  <it  barley,  from  some 
tribe  or  another  for  this  protection,  which  ia  always  respected  by  the  other  branches 
of  the  tnbe.  Thos  the  Jehesh  paid  kmece  to  the  Boraij,  the  Jehours  of  the  Khabour 
to  Ferhan  (the  hereditary  chief  uf  ail  the  Shanimar),  ihe  pi-ople  of  Tel  Afer  to  the 
Aaaaiyah.  Should  another  branch  of  the  Shammar  plunder,  or  injure,  tribes  thus  pay- 
ing kowee,  their  protectors  arc  bound  to  make  good,  or  revenge,  their  losses. 

t  Tlie  revenues,  i.  e.  the  different  taxes,  tithes,  &c,  of  some  pashahos  arc  sold  by 
auction  in  the  spring  to  the  highest  bidders,  who  pay  the  purchase-money,  or  give 
sufficient  security,  and  collect  the  revenues  themselves.  This  is  a  system  which  has 
contributed  greatly  to  the  ruin  of  some  of  the  finest  provinces  in  the  empire. 

t  Cawal  Yusuf  actually  became  the  fanner  of  the  revenues  for  a  sum  scarcely  ex- 
ceeding 360/.    The  inhabitants  of  the  Sinjar  were  greatly  pleased  by  this  concession 


After  leaving  Om-el-Dhiban  we  entered  an  unduloting  country,  croxed 
by  deep  ravines,  worn  by  the  winter  torrents.  Veins  of  Mosul  marble,  the 
alabaster  of  tlie  Assyrian  sculptures,  occasionally  appeared  above  the  soil, 
interrupting  the  carpet  of  flowers  spread  over  the  face  of  the  country.  We 
drew  near  to  the  low  hills  into  which  the  Sinjar  subsides  to  the  west.  They 
are  called  Jeraiba,  are  well  wooded  with  the  ilex  and  dwarf  oak,  and  abound 
in  springs,  near  which  the  Shainmar  Bedouins  encamp  during  the  summer. 
Skirting  them  we  found  a  beaten  path,  the  first  wc  had  seen  since  enter 
ing  the  Desert,  leading  to  the  Jcbour  encampments  on  the  Khabour,  and  we 
followed  it  fur  the  rest  of  the  day.  It  seemed  irksome  after  wandering,  as 
we  had  listed,  over  the  boundless  untrodden  plain,  to  be  again  contined  to 
the  narrow  track  of  the  footsteps  of  man.  However,  the  Bedouins  declared 
that  this  pathway  led  to  the  best  water,  and  we  had  committed  ourselves  to 
their  guidance.  Four  hours'  ride  brought  us  to  a  scanty  spring ;  half  an 
hour  beyond  we  passed  a  second ;  and  in  Ave  and  a  half  hours  pitched  the 
tents,  for  the  rest  of  the  day,  near  a  small  stream.  All  these  springs  are 
called  Maalaga,  and  rising  in  the  gypsum  or  Mosul  marble,  have  a  brack- 
isb  and  disagreeable  taste.  The  Bedouins  declare  that,  although  unpalat- 
able, they  are  exceedingly  wholesome,  and  that  even  their  mares  fatten  oa 
the  waters  of  Jeraiba. 

Near  our  tents  were  the  ruins  of  aa  ancient  village  surrounded  by  a 
wall.  The  spring  once  issued  from  the  midst  of  them,  but  its  source  hsd 
been  choked  by  rubbish,  which,  as  some  hours  of  daylight  still  remained, 
Hormuzd  employed  the  Jebours  and  Tia]rri  In  removing.  Before  sunset  the 
supply  and  quality  of  the  water  had  much  improved.  Sultum,  who  could 
not  remain  idle,  wandered  over  the  plain  on  his  deloul  with  his  hawk  in 
search  of  game,  and  returned  in  the  evening  with  a  bag  of  bustards.  He 
came  to  me  before  nightfall,  somewhat  downcast  in  look,  as  if  a  heavy 
weight  were  on  his  mind.  At  length,  after  various  circumtocutions,  he  said 
that  his  wife  would  not  sleep  under  the  white  tent  which  I  had  lent  her, 
such  lu.xuries  being,  she  declared,  only  worthy  of  city  ladies,  and  altogether 
unbecoming  the  wife  and  daughter  of  a  Bedouin.  "  So  determined  is  she," 
said  fcJuttum,  "in  the  matter,  that,  BiUahl  she  deserted  my  bed  last  night 
and  slept  on  tbe  grass  In  the  open  air ;  and  now  she  swears  she  will  leave 
me  and  return  on  foot  to  her  kindred,  unless  I  save  her  from  the  indignity 
of  sleeping  under  a  white  tent."  It  was  inconvenient  to  humour  the  fan- 
cies of  the  Arab  lady,  but  as  she  was  inexorable,  I  gave  her  a  black  Arab 
^^H  tent,  used  by  the  servants  for  a  kitchen.  Under  this  sheet  of  goat-hair  can- 
^^B  vass,  open  on  all  sides  to  the  air,  sho  said  she  could  breathe  freely,  and  feci 
P  again  that  bKb  was  a  Redouiu. 

I  As  the  sun  went  down  we  could  distinguish,  in  the  extreme  distanoe,  a 

I  black  line  marking  the  wooded  banks  of  the  Khabour,  beyond  which  ro8« 

I  the  dark  bills  of  Abd-ul-Azeez.      Colunms  of  thin  curling  smoke  showed 

I  tu  one  of  their  own  faith,  and  were  encouraged  lo  cultivate  the  soil,  and  to  abstain 

I  from  mutual  aggreaaions. 


Chap.  XI.] 


that  there  were  oncarapmcaU  of  Bedouins  between  us  and  the  river,  but  we 
could  neither  see  their  tents  nor  their  cattle.  The  plains  to  the  south  of 
our  encampment  was  bounded  by  a  range  of  low  hills,  colled  Rhoua  and 
Haweeza. 

We  crossed,  during  the  following  evening,  a  beautiful  plain  covered  with 
■weet  smelling  flowers  and  aromatic  herbs,  and  abounding  in  gazelles, 
hares,  and  bustards.  We  reached  in  about  two  hours  the  encampments, 
whose  smoke  we  had  seen  during  the  preceding  evening.  They  belonged 
to  Bedouins  of  the  Hanioud  branch  of  the  Shammar.  The  tents  were  pitolv 
ed  closely  together  in  grou|M,  as  if  the  owners  feared  danger.  We  alighted 
at  some  distance  from  them  to  avoid  entering  them  as  guests.  The  chiefs 
soon  came  out  to  us,  bringing  camels'  milk  and  bread.  From  them  we 
learnt  that  they  had  lately  plundered,  on  the  high  road  between  Mosul  and 
Mardin,  a  caravan  conveying,  amongst  other  valuable  loads,  a  large  amount 
of  govenmient  treasure.  The  Turkish  authorities  had  called  upon  Ferhan, 
tt  responsible  chief  of  the  Shammar,  to  restore  the  money,  threatening,  in 
case  of  refusal,  an  expedition  against  the  whole  tribe.  The  Hamoud,  unwil- 
ling to  part  with  their  booty,  and  fearing  lest  the  rest  of  the  fihammar  might 
compel  them  to  do  eo  in  order  to  avoid  a  war,  were  now  retreating  toward 
the  north,  and,  being  strong  in  horsemen,  had  openly  defied  Ferhan.  They 
had  been  joined  by  many  families  from  the  Assaiyah,  who  had  crossed  the 
Euphrates,  and  united  with  the  Aneyza  on  account  of  a  blood  feud  with  the 
Nejm.  The  Hamoud  are  notorious  for  treachery  and  cruelty,  and  certainly 
the  looks  of  those  who  gathered  round  us,  many  of  thera  grotesquely  attired 
in  the  plundered  garments  of  the  slaughtered  Turkish  soldiery,  did  not  be- 
lie their  reputation.  They  fingered  every  article  of  dress  we  had  on,  to 
learn  its  texture  and  value. 

Leaving  their  encampments,  we  rode  through  vast  herds  of  camels  and 
flocks  of  sheep  belonging  to  the  tribe,  and  at  length  came  in  sight  of  the 
river. 

The  Khabour  flows  through  the  richest  pastures  and  meadows.  Its  banks 
were  now  covered  with  fiowers  of  every  hue.  and  its  windings  through  the 
green  plain  were  like  the  coils  of  a  mighty  serpent.  I  never  beheld  a  more 
lovely  scene.  An  uncontrollable  emotion  of  joy  seized  all  our  parly  when 
they  saw  the  end  of  their  journey  before  them.  The  horsemen  urged  their 
horses  to  full  speed  ;  the  Jebours,  dancing  in  a  circle,  raised  their  colored  ker- 
chiefs on  their  spears,  and  shouted  their  war  cry.  Hormuzd  leading  the  cho- 
rus ;  theTiyari  sang  their  mountain  songs  and  fired  their  muskets  into  the  air 

Trees  in  full  leaf  lined  the  water's  edge.  From  amongst  them  issued 
a  body  of  mounted  Arabs.  As  they  drew  nigh  we  recognised  at  their  head 
Mohammed  Emin,  the  Jebour  E^heikh,  and  his  sons,  who  had  come  out  from 
their  tents  to  welcome  us.  We  dismounted  to  embrace,  and  to  exchange 
the  usual  salutations,  and  then  rode  onwards,  through  a  mass  of  flowers, 
reaching  high  above  the  horses'  knees,  and  such  as  I  had  never  before  seen, 
even  in  the  most  fertile  parts  of  tha  Mcsopotamian  wildernesi. 


NINXVKB  AVD  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  H 


The  tenU  of  the  chief  were  pitched  under  the  ruins  of  Arban,  and  on  the 
rig;ht  or  northern  bank  of  the  river,  which  was  not  at  this  time  fordable.  At 
■we  drew  near  to  them,  after  a  ride  of  nearly  two  hours,  Mohammed  Emia 
pointed  in  triumph  to  the  sculpturef,  which  were  the  principal  objects  of  cnj 
visit.  Thcy^  stood  a  little  above  the  water's  edge,  at  the  base  of  a  mound 
of  considerable  size.  We  had  passed  several  lels  and  the  double  banks  of 
ancient  canals,  showing  that  we  were  still  amidst  the  remains  of  ancient  i 
civilisation.  Flacks  of  sheep  and  herds  of  camels  were  spread  over  thtt 
meadows  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  They  belonged  to  the  Jebours,  and  tol 
a  part  of  the  Boraij  tribe  under  Moghamis,  a  distinguished  Arab  warrior, 
and  the  uncle  of  Suttum.  BufTalocs  and  cattle  tended  by  the  Sherabbeea 
and  Buggara,  small  clans  pasturing  under  the  protection  of  Mohammed 
Emin,  stood  lazily  in  the  long  grass,  or  sought  refuge  in  the  stream  from 
the  flies  and  noonday  heat. 

At  length  we  stopped  opposite  to  the  encampment  of  the  Jebour  Sheikh, 
but  it  was  too  late  to  cross  the  river,  some  time  being  required  to  make  ready 
the  rafts.  We  raised  our  tents,  therefore,  for  the  night  on  the  southern  bank. 
They  were  soon  iilied  by  a  motley  group  of  Boraij,  Hamroud,  Assaiyah,  and 
Jebour  Arabs.  Moghamis  himself  came  shortly  after  our  arrival,  bringing 
me  as  a  present  a  well-trained  hawk  and  some  bustards,  the  fruits  of  his 
morning's  sport.  The  falcon  was  duly  placed  on  his  stand  in  the  centre 
of  the  spacious  tent,  and  remained  during  the  rest  of  my  sojourn  in  the  East 
a  member  of  my  estabUshment.  His  name  was  Fawaz,  and  he  was  a  na- 
tive of  the  hills  of  Makhhoui,  near  Tekrit,  celebrated  for  their  breed  of 
hawks.  He  was  of  the  species  called  "  chark,"  and  had  been  gjven  by  Sa- 
doun- el- Mustafa,  the  chief  of  the  great  tribe  of  Obeid,  to  Ferhan,  the  sheikh 
of  the  Shammar,  who  had  bestowed  him  in  token  of  friendship  on  Mo^  | 
hamis. 

A  Sheikh  of  the  Hamoud  also  brought  us  a  wild  ass-colt,  scarcely  two 
months  old,  which  had  been  caught  whilst  following  its  dam,  and  had  been 
since  fed  upon  camel's  milk.*     Indeed,  nearly  all  those  who  came  to  my 


*  I  am  indebted  lo  Mr.  Grey  for  the  following  remarks  on  the  skin  of  a  young  wild 
ass  brought  by  me  to  this  country  : — "  It  is,  I  have  no  doubt,  ihe  wild  ass,  or  onager 
of  the  ancients.  It  is  OTtriciitly  the  same  aa  the  ass  without  a  stripe,  which  has  been 
described  by  several  authors  as  the  Eguut  Hemioniu,  found  in  Outeh,  and  quite  dis- 
tinct from  the  Eqiivs  Hemionui  described  by  Pallas  as  found  in  the  snowy  mountaini 
of  Asia,  and  called  by  Mr.  Hodgson  Equiu  Kiang  and  E.  polyodon.  The  wild  aas,  or^ 
onager,  waa  <me  of  the  desiderata  of  soologiata,  as  it  was  only  described  from  BOtne 
specimens  seen  at  a  distance,  and  not  from  the  examination  of  specimens,  and  is 
characterised  by  being  said  to  have  larger  and  more  acute  ears  than  the  Htmiont  of 
Pallas.  I  do  not  find  this  to  be  the  case  in  the  young  specimen  you  have  sent  to  the 
Museum.  The  great  difTcrcnre  between  the  wild  ass  of  the  plains  of  Mesopotamia 
and  Ihe  Hemione  of  Tih^t  is,  that  Ihe  former  is  a  yellowish  white,  and  the  latter  a 
bright  bay  in  summer,  both  being  greyish  white  in  winter.  There  is  also  some  dif- 
ference in  the  forms  of  the  skull,  and  in  the  disposal  of  the  hole  for  the  transmission 
of  the  bloodvessels  and  nerves  of  the  face."  The  Arabs  of  Mesopotamia  frequently 
capture  this  beautiful  animal  when  young,  and  generally  kill  it  at  once  for  food.     It 


Chap.  XI.] 


INTBRCUANGR  OF  PRBSENTS- 


tent  had  some  ofiering,  either  sheep,  milk,  curda,  or  butter  ;  eren  the  Arab 
boyB  had  caught  for  us  the  elegant  jerboa,  vhich  burrows  in  vast  numbeTs 
ou  the  banks  of  the  river.  Suitable  presents  were  made  in  return.  Din- 
ner was  cooked  for  all  our  guests,  and  wc  celebrated  out  first  night  on  the 
Khabour  by  general  festivities. 

is  almost  impossible  to  take  it  when  rull  grnwn.  The  colt  mentioned  in  the  text  died 
before  we  returned  to  Mr>sul.  A  second,  after  living  eight  or  nme  montiis,  also  died  , 
and  a  third  met  with  tlic  same  fate.  I  was  desirous  of  sending  a  live  specunen  tu 
England,  but  thus  faili-d  in  all  my  attempts  to  rear  one.  They  became  very  playful 
and  docile.    That  which  I  had  at  Mosul  followed  like  a  dog 


S84 


NINEVEH  AND  BAOVLON. 


[OgMT.  Hf. 


A  few  houn  had  enabled  him  to  forni  a  oorrect  estimate  of  the  oharaoter  of 
each  one  of  the  party,  and  he  had  detected  peculiarities  which  might  have  a^^ 
capcd  the  notice  of  the  most  observant  European.     The  most  polished  Tur 
would  have  boon  far  less  at  home  in  the  society  of  ladies,  and  during  th«  I 
whole  of  our  journey  he  never  committed  a  broach  of  manners,  only  ao*^ 
quired  after  a  few  hour's  residence  with  us.     As  a  companion  ho  was  de 
,  lightful, — full  of  anecdote,  of  unclouded  spirits,  acquainted  with  the  histor 
of  every  Bedouin  tribe,  their  politics  and  their  wars,  and  intimate  with  ev-^ 
ery  part  of  the  Desert,  its  productions  and  its  inhabitants.     Many  happy^ 
hours  I  spent  with  him,  sealed,  after  the  sun  went  down,  on  a  mound  over 
looking  the  great  plain  and  the  winding  river,  listening  to  the  rich  flow  ofi 
his  graceful  Bedouin  dialect,  to  his  eloquent  stories  of  Arab  life,  and  to  hiti 
animated  descriptions  of  forays,  wars,  and  single  combats. 

Mohammed  Emin,  the  Sheikh  of  the  Jebours.  was  a  gooil-natured  portif  ( 
Arab,  in  intelligence  greatly  inferior  to  Suttum,  and  wanting  many  of  th«i^ 
qualities  of  the  pure  Bedouin.     During  our  intercourse  I  had  every  res 
to  be  satisfied  with  his  hospitality  and  the  cordial  aid  he  ailbrded  me.     Hiiil 
chief  fault  was  a  habit  of  begging  for  every  thing.     Always  willing  to  giva^:i 
he  was  equally  ready  to  receive.     Xn  this  respect,  however,  all  Arabs  ar«^ 
alike,  and  when  the  habit  is  understood  it  is  no  longer  a  source  of  inooa> 
venience,  as  on  a  refusal  no  offence  is  taken.     The  Jebour  chief  wa<  a,< 
complete  patriarch  in  his  tribe,  having  no  less  than  sixteen  children,  of  i 
whom  eix  sons  were  horsemen  and  the  owners  of  mares.     The  youngest,  a  j 
boy  of  four  years  old  named  Sultan,  was  his  favorite.     His  usual  costumo  < 
eoniisted  simply  of  a  red  Turkish  skull  cap,  or  fez,  on  his  head.     He  scarce- , 
ly  ever  left  his  father,  who  always  brought  the  child  with  him  when  haj 
oaine  to  our  tent.     He  was  as  handsome  and  dirty  a^  the  best  of  Arab , 
children.     Hts  mother,  who  had  recently  died,  was  the  beautiful  sister  of  \ 
Abd-rubbou.     I  chanced  to  bo  her  brother's  guest  when  the  news  of  her  ( 
death  was  brought  to  him.     An  Arab  of  the  tribe,  weary  and  wayworn, 
entered  the  tent  and  seated  himself  without  giving  the  usual  salutation ;  ^ 
all  present  knew  that  he  had  come  from  the  Khabour  and  from  distant  ( 
friends.     His  silence  argued  evil  tidings.     By  an  indirect  remark,  imme- 1 
diately  understood,  he  told  his  errand  to  one  who  sat  next  him.  and  who  in 
turn  whispered  it  to  Sheikh  Ibrahim,  the  chief's  uncle.     The  old  man  said 
aloud,  with  a  sigh,  "  It  is  the  will  and  mercy  of  God  ;  she  is  not  dead,  but 
released  !"     Abd-rubbou  at  once  understood  of  whom  he  spake.     He  arose  | 
and  went  forth,  and  the  wailing  of  the  mother  and  of  the  women  soon  it* 
Bued  from  the  inner  recesses  of  the  tent. 

We  were  for  a  day  or  two  objects  of  curiosity  to  the  Arabs  who  assem- 
bled in  crowds  around  our  tents.  Having  never  before  seen  an  European. 
it  was  natural  that  they  should  hasten  to  examine  the  strangers.  They 
soon,  however,  became  used  to  us,  and  things  went  on  as  usvial.  It  is  %.( 
circumstance  well  worthy  of  mention,  and  most  strongly  in  favor  of  thft 
natural  integrity  of  the  Arab  when  his  guests  arc  concerned,  that  during 


Chap.  Xn.] 


•ootrrvnBs  at  arban. 


\ 


i 


\ 


the  whole  of  our  journey  and  our  residence  on  the  Khabour,  although  we 
lived  in  open  tents,  and  property  of  all  kinds  wai  scattered  about,  we  had 
not  to  complain  of  a  single  loss  from  theft. 

My  first  care,  after  crossing  to  Arban,  was  to  examine  the  sculptures 
described  by  the  Arabs.  The  river,  having  gradually  worn  away  the 
mound,  had,  during  the  recent  floods,  lefl  uncovered  a  pair  of  winged  human- 
headed  bulla,  some  six  feci  above  the  water's  edge,  and  full  fifty  beneath 
the  level  of  the  ruin.  Only  the  fore  part  of  these  figures  had  been  exposed 
to  view,  and  Mohammed  Emin  would  not  allow  any  of  the  soil  to  be  re- 
moved before  my  arrival.  The  earth  was  soon  cleared  away,  and  I  found 
them  to  be  of  a  coarse  limestone,  not  exceeding  ^k  feet  in  height  by  4^  in 
length.  Between  them  was  a  pavement  slab  of  the  same  material.  They 
resembled  in  general  form  the  well-known  winged  bulls  of  Nineveh,  bat 
in  the  style  of  art  they  differed  considerably  from  them.  The  outline  and 
treatment  was  bold  and  angular,  with  an  archaic  feeling  conveying  the 
impression  of  great  antiquity.  They  bore  the  same  relation  to  the  more 
deUoately  finished  and  highly  omameiUed  sculptures  of  Nimroud,  as  the 
earliest  remains  of  Greek  art  do  to  the  exquisite  monuments  of  Phidiai 
and  Praxiteles.     The  human  fealures^A'cro  uiifortuuatcly  much  injured, 

but  fifch  parts  as  remained  were  suffi- 
cient'to  show  that  the  countenance  had 
a  peculiar  character,  differing  from  the 
Assyrian  type.  The  Eockets  of  the  eyes 
were  deeply  sunk,  probably  to  receive 
the  white  and  the  ball  of  the  eye  in 
ivory  or  glass.  The  nose  was  flat  and 
large,  and  the  lips  thick  and  overhang- 
ing like  thoBd  of  a  negro.  Human  cars 
were  attached  to  the  head,  and  bull's 
ears  to  the  hdTtied  cap,  which  was  low 
and  square  at  the  top,  not  high  and  or- 
namented like  those  of  Khor«abad  and 
Kouyutijik,  nor  rounded  like  those  of 
Nimroud.  The  hair  was  elaborately 
nirled,  as  in  the  pure  Assyrian  sculp- 
tures, though  more  nideiy  carved.  The 
wings  were  small  in  proportion  to  the 
size  of  the  body,  and  had  not  the  majes- 
tic spread  of  those  of  the  bulls  that 
adorned  the  palaces  of  Nineveh.  Above 
the  figure  were  the  following  charac- 
ters,* which  are  purely  Assyrian. 

•  The  last  letter  is  in  one  insMnce  omitted.  For  a  drawing  of  the  buU,  see  wood- 
out  at  the  end  of  the  chapter. 


236 


NINEVEIT  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XII 


It  would  appear  from  thcim  that  the  Kulpturea  belonged  to  the  palace 
of  a  king  whoso  name  has  been  fuund  on  no  other  monument.  No  titles 
are  attached  to  it,  not  even  that  of"  king ;"  nor  is  the  country  over  which 
he  reigned  mentioned ;  ao  that  some  doubt  may  exist  aa  to  whether  it  really 
be  a  royal  name. 

The  great  accumulation  of  earth  above  these  sculptures  proves  that, 
since  the  destruction  of  the  edifice  in  which  they  stood,  other  habitationt 
have  been  raised  upon  its  ruins.  Arban,  indeed,  is  mentioned  by  the  Arab 
geographers  as  a  flourishing  city,  in  a  singularly  fertile  district  of  the  Kha- 
hour.  Part  of  a  minaret,  whose  walls  were  cased  with  colored  tiles,  and 
ornamented  with  cufic  inscriptions  in  relief,  like  that  of  the  Sinjar,  and  the 
foundations  of  buildings,  are  still  seen  on  the  mound  ;  and  at  its  foot,  on  the 
western  side,  arc  the  remains  of  a  bridge  which  once  spanned  the  stream. 
But  the  river  has  changed  its  course.  The  piers,  adorned  with  elegantly 
shaped  arabesque  characters,  are  now  on  the  dry  land. 

I  will  describe,  at  once,  the  results  of  the  excavations  carried  on  during 
the  three  weeks  our  tents  were  pitched  at  Arban.  To  please  the  Jebour 
Sheikh,  and  to  keep  around  our  encampment,  for  greater  security,  a  body 
of  armed  men,  when  the  tribe  changed  their  pastures,  I  hired  about  fifty 
of  Mohammed  Emin's  Arabs,  ana  placed  them  in  parties  with  the  work- 
men who  had  accompanied  me  from  Mosul.  Tunnels  were  opened  behind 
the  bulls  already  uncovered,  and  in  various  parts  of  the  ruins  on  the  same 
level.     Trenches  were  also  dug  into  the  surl'ace  of  the  mound. 

Behind  the  bulls  were  found  various  Assyrian  relics ;  amongst  them  i 
copper  bell,  like  those  from  Nimroud,  and  fragments  of  bricks  with  arrow- 
beaded  characters  painted  yellow  with  whit©  outlines,  upon  a  pale  green 
ground.  In  other  parts  of  the  mound  were  discovered  glass  and  pottery, 
some  Assyrian,  others  nf  a  more  doubtful  character.  Several  fragments  of 
earthenware,  ornamented  with  flowers  and  scrollwork,  and  highly  glazed, 
had  a8«umcd  the  brilliant  and  varied  iridescence  of  ancient  glass.* 

It  was  natural  to  conclude,  from  the  usual  architectural  arrangement  ol 
Assyrian  edifices,  that  the  two  bulls  described  stood  at  an  entrance  to  a 
hall  or  chamber.  We  searched  in  vain  for  the  remains  of  walls,  although 
digging  for  three  days  to  the  right  and  loft  of  the  sculptures,  a  work  of  con- 
siderable difficulty  in  consequence  of  the  immense  heap  of  superincumbent 
earth.  I  then  directed  a  tunnel  to  be  carried  towards  the  centre  of  the 
mound,  hoping  to  find  a  corresponding  doorway  opposite.  I  was  not  disap- 
pointed. On  the  fifth  day  a  similar  pair  of  winged  bulls  were  discovered 
They  were  of  the  same  size,  and  inscribed  with  the  same  characters.  A 
part  of  one  having  been  originally  broken  olT.  cither  in  carving  the  sculp- 
ture or  in  moving  it,  a  fresh  piece  of  stone  had  been  carefully  fitted  into  its 
place.  I  also  dug  to  the  right  and  left  of  these  sculptures  for  remains  of 
walls,  but  without  success,  and  then  resumed  the  tunnelling  towards  the 
centre  of  the  mound.  In  a  few  days  a  lion,  with  extended  jaws,  sculptured 
•  'riiese  relics  arc  now  in  the  British  Museum. 


MNEVEH  AND  BAHYLOM. 


(Ciup.  xir 


peued  to  oonatat  of  a  kind  af  circular  helmet,  ending  in  a  sharp  point. 
Tho  treatment  and  style  marked  the  sculpture  to  be  of  the  same  period  u 
the  bull  and  lion. 

Such  were  the  sculptures  discovered  in  the  mound  of  Arban.  Amon^t 
smaller  objects  of  different  periods  were  some  of  considerable  interest,  jan, 
vases,  funeral  urns,  highly-glazed  pottery,  and  fragments  of  glass.  In  a 
trench,  on  the  south  aide  of  the  rum,  was  found  a  small  green  and  white 
bottle,  inscribed  with  Chinese  characters.  A  similar  rehc  was  brought  to 
me  Bubsequenlly  by  an  Arab  from  a  barrow  in  the  neighbourhood.  Such 
bottles  have  been  discovered  in  Egyptian  tombs,  and  considerable  doubt 
exists  as  to  their  antiquity,  and  as  to  the  date  and  manner  of  their  imjiort- 
ation  into  Egypt.*  The  best  opinion  now  is  that  they  are  comparatively 
modem,  and  that  they  were  probably  brought  by  the  Arabs, 
in  the  eighth  or  ninth  century,  from  the  kingdoms  of  the  far 
East,  with  which  they  had  at  that  period  extensive  commer- 
cial intercourse.  Bottles  precisely  similar  are  still  oQered 
for  sale  in  the  bazaN  at,Cairo,  and  are  used  to  hold  the  kohl, 
or  powder  for  stai^img  the  eyes  of.  ladies. 

A  jar,  about  four  feet  high,  in  coara^ half-baked  clay,  wa» 
dug  out  of  the  centre  jof  the  mound.     The  handles  were 
formed  by  rudLly-des)gn«d  human  figiires,  and  the  sides  oov- 
Chines  DodiP  di»-  crcd  wilh  gfotcstjue  representations  of  men  and  animals,  and 
oov.fej  m  ArLnii.  jy-abesque  ornaments  in  relief. 

Vases  of  tho  same  material,  ornamented  with  figures,  are  frequently  dis- 
covered in  digging  the  foundations  of  houses  in 
the  modern  town  of  Mosul.  They  appear  to  be- 
long to  a  comparatively  re^nl  period,  later  prob- 
ably than  the  Christiaa  era,  but  previous  to  the 
Arab  occupation.  As  they  liarfc  upon  them  hu- 
man figures,  dressed  in  k.  jJeculiar  costume,  con- 
sisting of  a  high  cap  and  embroidered  robes,  1 
should  attribute  them  to  the  Persians.  A  vase, 
similar  in  size  and  shape  to  that  of  Arban,  and 
also  covered  with  grotesque  representations  of 
monstrous  animals,  the  finest  specimen  I  have 
seen  of  this  class  of  antiquities,  was  found  be- 
neath the  foundations  of  the  very  ancient  Chal- 
diean  church  of  Meskinla  at  Mosul,  when  that 
edifice  was  pulled  down  and  rebuilt  two  years 

•go.t  It  was  given  to  me  by  the  Catholic  Chaldrcan  Patriarch,  to  whom 
•  Wilkinson,  in  his  "Ancient  Egyptians."  vol.  jii.  p.  ]07,,  gives  a  drawing  of  a 
bottle  precisely  similar  to  that  tlcsrnbpd  in  the  text,  and  mentions  one  wluch,  acconl- 
Ing  to  Rosellini,  hail  been  discovereil  in  a  pmioiulif  unopened  tomb,  Iwlicved  Co  be  of 
the  18th  dynasty  ;  but  there  appears  to  be  considerable  doubt  on  the  subject. 

t  In  laying  the  foundations  of  the  new  church,  the  tombs  of  two  of  the  early  Chal- 
dean  patriarchs  were  diatwvered  amongst  other  objects  of  interest.    The  bodies,  be- 


Cbaf.  XIL] 


SCARABS  DISCOVSneD  AT  ARDAN. 


239 


it  belonged  as  chief  of  the  community,  but  was  unfortunately  destroyed, 
with  other  interesting  relics,  by  the  Arabs,  who  plundered  a  raft  laden  with 
antiquities,  on  its  way  to  Baghdad,  after  my  return  to  Europe. 

Amongst  other  relics  discovered  at  Arban  were,  a  large  copper  ring,  ap- 
parently Assyrian  ;  an  ornament  in  earthenware,  resembling  the  pine-cono 
of  the  Assyrian  sculptures  ;  a  bull's  head  in  terracotta  ;  fragments  of  paint- 
ed bricks,  probably  of  the  same  period  ;  and  several  Egyptian 
scarabsi.  It  is  singular  that  engraved  stones  and  scarabs 
bearing  Egyptian  devices,  and  in  some  instances  even  royal 
cartouches,  should  have  been  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Kha- 
bour.  Similar  objects  were  subsequently  dug  up  at  Nimroud, 
and  brought  to  me  by  the  Arabs  from  various  ruins  in  Assyria. 
I  will  take  this  opportunity  of  adJiug  the  luUowing  remarks  Eiypimn  scarab. 
by  Mr.  Birch  on  those  deposited  iu  the  British  Museum. 


1.  A  scarabeus,  having  on  the  base  Ra-men-chepr, 
the  prenonien  of  Tliotlmus  III.  Brnuath  is  a  scarab 
between  two  (^Ui^,  placed  on  the  basket  tub. 


3  A  scarabwus  in  dark  stcasclust,  with  the  figure  of 
the  sphinx  (llic  aun),  aiid  un  emblem  between  the  fore- 
paws  of  the  monster.  The  sphinx  constantly  appears 
on  the  scaraba^i  of  TholKinea  III.,  and  it  is  probably 
to  this  monarch  that  the  onv  here  describpil  bi'longs.* 
After  the  sphinx  nn  this  scnrab  are  the  titles  of  the 
king,   "  the   sun   jriacer  of  creation,"   of  Tliothmcs 

3.  Sni|^l|feabmia  a(iR|ule  steaachist,  with  a  brown- 
ish hue  J^nin  PItUr  nt/O'Wl'ta  Ra-neb-ma,  "The  good 
Ho'l.  ihA  Ldif'of  the  c)M|ftie  sun,  the  Lord  of  truth. 
n^in^  In  all  land.s-"  Thnns  of  Amenophis  Fll ,  one  ul 
•hi'  last  kings  uf  the  cijrhtccnth  dyniuity,  who  fioiirish- 
r;il  about  the  fifteenth  century  b.  c,  and  who  records 
.,_'sl  his  conquests  .\B-su-ru  (Assyria),  Naharaina 
iioianiia),llie  Saenkar{.Shinar  or  Sinjar),  and  Pat- 
lana  (Padnn  Aram).  The  expression,  "who  rises  in 
all  lands,"  refers  Kithe  solar  character  of  the  king,  and 
to  his  universal  dominion. 

ing  still  preserved,  were,  of  rourse,  canonised  at  once,  and  turned  into  a  source  of 
profll  by  the  biahop,  the  faithful  paying  a  small  snni  for  prrmiaaioii  to  touch  the  sa- 
cred relics.  One  had  been  head  of  the  Oriental  church  before  the  Arab  invasion 
By  his  side  was  his  crozier  ending  in  a  silver  crook,  on  wliich  was  an  itiscription  In 
Chaldee  letters.  The  second  was  of  a  rather  later  period.  His  crozier  was  nf  eb- 
ony, sunnountcd  by  a  ball  of  glass,  and  inscribed  with  the  earliest  cofic  cliaracters 
I  examined  these  interesting  relics  immediately  aftei  iherr  discovery. 

•  On  many  scarabaei  in  the  British  Museum,  and  on  ikosc  figured  by  Klaproth  from 
the  Paiin  Collection,  in  I/ceraan's  Monuments,  and  in  the  "  Description  de  I'Egypte," 
Thothroea  ia  represented  as  a  sphinx  treading  foreign  prisoners  under  him 


^li 


5.  Scarabieus  in  pale  white  steaschist,  with  three 
emblems  Uiat  cannut  well  be  explained.  They  are  tlie 
sun's  disk,  the  ostrich  feather,  the  urcus,  and  th^  gui- 
tar nabiuini.  They  uay  mean  "Truth  the  good  god- 
dess," or  "  lady,"  or  ma  ne/er,  "  good  and  true." 


6.  5veanib«fU5  in  the  same  substance,  with  a  motto 
of  doubtful  ineamng. 


Ti^Scarabee,  with  a  hav 
blem  of  life,  and  the  word 
The  meaning  very  doubtful 


God  holding  the  em- 
ntftr,  "good  and  trae.' 


8.  A  scarBbwiis.  with  a  hawk-headed  gryphon,  em- 
blem of  Mcnta-Ita,  or  Mars.  Behind  the  monster  is 
the  gwJdcss  Saii,  or  Nuhen.  The  hawk-headed  lion  is 
one  df  the  shapes  into  which  the  sun  turns  himself  in 
the  hours  of  the  day.  It  is  a  coinmun  emblem  in  the 
.\fam»an  religion. 

■^   9.  Scnrabsus,  with  hawk-heailcd  gryphon,  havini^b*- 
fore  it  the  ursus  and  the  "  naUa"  or  guitar,  hieroglyp 
if  ofiTfux!.     .\b(.ivi'  It  are  the  hieroglyphs  '•  lx»rd  oft 

r.ulll  '■ 

10.  Small  scarabeus  in  dark  steasehist.  with  a  man  in ' 
adoraiitm  tii  a  king  or  deity,  wearing  tlie  frown  of  the 
upper  u-ountry,  and  hol«ling  in  the  left  hand  a  lotos 
ftower.     Between  them  is  the  emblem  of  life. 

U.  ScarabiEUR,  with  the  hawk-headed  scarabKUO, 
emblem  of  Ba-rhrper,  "  the  Creator  Sun,"  living  with 
expanded  wings,  four  in  numl>cr,  which  do  not  aj^xsar 
in  Egyptian  mythology  till  nflcr  the  time  of  the  Por- 
sians,  when  the  gods  assume  a  more  Pantheistic  form 
Such  a  representation  of  the  sun,  for  instance,  is  found 
on  the  Torso  Borghese. 

It  will  be  observed  that  most  of  the  Egyptian  relics  discovered  in  the 
'Awyrian  ruins  are  of  the  time  of  the  18th  Egyptian  dynasty,  or  of  the  15th 
centurj'  before  Christ ;  a  period  when,  as  we  learn  from  Egyptian  monu- 
ments, there  was  a  close  connection  between  Assyria  and  Egypt. 

Several  tombs  were  also  found  in  the  ruins,  consisting  principally  of 


Chap.  XII.] 


ANTIQUITY  OF  SCULPTURES  AT  AROAN. 


241 


boxes,  or  sarcophagi,  of  earthenware,  like  ihoee  existing  above  the  Asayrian 
palai-es  near  Mosul.  Some,  however,  were  formed  by  two  largo  earthen 
jars,  like  the  coiiiinoti  Eastern  vessel  for  holding  oil,  laid  horizontally,  and 
joined  uioulb  to  tnoulh.  These  terracotta  coffins  appear  to  be  of  the  same 
period  as  those  Ibund  in  all  the  great  ruins  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  of 
Mesopotamia,  and  are  not  Assyrian.*  They  cuntained  human  remains 
turned  to  dust,  with  the  exception  of  the  skull  and  u  lew  of  the  larger  bones, 
and  generally  three  or  Itjur  urns  of  higbly-glazed  blue  pottery. 

Fewer  rcruoias  and  objects  of  antiquity  were  discovered  in  the  mounds 
on  the  Khabour  than  1  had  anticipated.  They  were  sufficient,  however, 
to  prove  that  the  ruins  arc,  uii  the  whole,  of  the  same  character  as  those 
on  the  banks  of  the  Tigris.  That  the  Assyrian  empire  at  one  time  em- 
braced the  whole  of  Mesopotamia,  including  the  country  watered  by  the 
Khabour,  there  can  be  no  doubt,  as  indeed  is  shown  by  the  inscriptions  on 
the  monuments  of  Nineveh.  Whether  the  sculptures  at  Arban  belong  to 
the  period  of  Assyrian  domination,  or  to  a  distinct  nation  afterwards  con- 
quered, or  whether  they  may  be  looked  upon  as  cotemporary  with,  or  more 
ancient  than,  the  baJ^cliefs  of  Nimroud,  arc  questions  not  so  easily  an- 
swered. The  arcBurlicharacter  of  ih^  fflalment  and  design,  the  pecul- 
iar form  of  the  features,  the  rude  though  forciLle  deliuealiou  of  the  mus- 
cles, and  the  simplicity  of  the  details,  certainly  convey  the  impression 
of  greater  antiquity  than  any  monuments  hitherto  discovered  in  Assyria 
Pro  per. t 

A  deep  interest,  at  the  same  time,  atUiches  to  these  remains  from  the 
site  they  occupy.  To  the  Chebar  were  wansporled  by  the  Assyriiiti  king, 
after  the  destruction  of  iniamana,  th<f  captivL^  cliildren  of  Israel,  and  on  its 
banks  "  the  heavens  were  opened"  to  ExekioV'^ixl  "  he  saw  visions  of  Qod," 
and  spake  his  prophecies  to  his  brothi  '     "     \ )  nund  Arban  may  have 

been  pitched  the  tents  of  the  sorrow  i..  jse  of  the  Arabs  were 

during  my  visit.  To  the  same  pastures  they»Icd  their  sheep,  and  they 
drank  of  the  same  waters.  Then  thu  banks  of  the  river  were  covered  with 
towns  and  villages,  and  a  palace-temple  still  stood  on  the  mound,  reflected 
in  the  transparent  stream.  We  have,  however,  but  one  name  connected 
with  the  Khabour  recorded  in  Scripture,  Ihat  of  Tel-Abib,  "  the  ninuiid  of 
Abib,  or,  of  the  heaps  of  ears  of  corn."  but  whether  it  applies  to  a  town, 
or  to  a  simple  artificial  elevation,  such  as  still  abound,  ajid  arc  still  called 
"  tels,"  is  a  matter  of  doubt.     I  sought  in  vain  for'sotne  trace  of  the  word 

*  Most  of  the  stdbII  objects  described  in  the  text  are  now  in  the  British  Museum 
+  A  lion  very  similar  to  lliat  discovered  at  Arban,  tliougli  more  co!i>ssal  in  its  di- 
mensions, exists  near  St-roiig.    (Chesney's  Expedition,  vol.  i.  p.  1 U.) 

X  8  Knigs.  xvii.  6.     Eaek.  i.  I.     In  ihe  Hebrew  tuil  lUc  name  <iriliis  rive 
in  two  ditTerent  ways.     In  Kings  we  have  ion,  Khabour.  ansWinnK  exac 
Chaboraa  of  the  Greeks  and  Homaiis,  and  the  Kbabour  of  the  Arabs.     In 
is  written  ')2!>i  Kebar.     There  is  do  reasun,  however,  to  doubt  itial  Ihe  aaine 

meant. 


ver  is  spell  I 

actly  to  the  j 

I  EzekJel  it  I 

line  river  is  J 


242 


NINEVEH  AND  OAJIYLON. 


[Chap.  XII. 


amongKt  the  names  now  givcM  by  the  wandering  Arab  to  the  Tarious  ruins 
on  the  Khaboiir  and  its  confluents  * 

We  know  that  Jews  still  lingered  in  the  cities  of  the  Khabour  until  long 
after  the  Arab  inva«ioa  ;  and  we  may  perhaps  recognise  in  the  Jewish  com- 
munities of  Ras-al-Aiji,  at  the  sources  of  the  river,  and  of  Karkisia,  or  Car- 
(rhemish,  at  its  confluence  with  the  Euphrates,  visited  and  described  by 
Henjamin  of  Tudela,  in  the  latter  end  of  the  twelfth  century  of  the  Chris- 
tian a;ra,  the  descendants  of  the  captive  Israelites. 

But  the  hand  of  time  has  long  since  swept  even  this  remnant  away,  with 
the  busy  crowds  which  thronged  the  banks  of  the  river.  From  its  mouth 
to  its  source,  from  Carchemish  to  Tlas-al-Ain,  there  is  now  no  single  j)er- 
manent  human  habitation  on  the  Khabonr.  Its  rich  meadows  and  its  de- 
serted ruins  arc  alike  become  the  encamping  places  of  the  wandering  Arab. 


fkla^***^<^i 


"va 


V. 


^, 


,:x,: 


X 


v^ 


'J 


jpmV"^**"*' 


r» 


Wmgn)  Dull  dliiroTcnd  Bt  Altel). 

•  The  name  oecurs  in  Ewkiel,  tii.  15.  "  Then  I  came  to  them  of  the  captivity  at 
Tel-Ahit>,  that  dwelt  hy  Ih*-  river  of  Chebar."  In  the  ThrmJosian  inbtes  we  find  That- 
taha  on  the  Klialjour.  with  whirh  it  may  possibly  be  iilpntified.  (llhistrateii  <  Vniuiient- 
»ry  on  the  Old  and  New  Tesianients,  published  by  Charles  Kntght,  a  very  useful  and  j 
well-digested  summary,  in  note  lo  word.)  It  is  possible  that  Arbonad,  a  niimc  nppJK] 
reatly  given  to  the  Khabonr  in  Judith,  ii.  24  ,  may  be  ccmnected  wiih  Arban  :  how- 
ever, it  is  not  quite  clear  what  river  ts  really  me^nt,  as  there  appears  to  be  soma 


■  UtDBMCB  AT  ABBAN. MOIIAMNBO  SMIH  S  TBNT. THE  AOAYDAT. ODB  TBNTC. BREAD- 

BaKINQ. FOOD   or  Tlir.   BBDOUIW*. — THIN   BRXAD. — THB   PRODl'CK   Or  THEIR  ri.OCKa. 

tMRBASES  AMONOST  THRM. — T1IK1R  BKMeDIKS. — THE  DELODl,  OR  IIROMEDARV. — BEOOUIK 
WARrARE. BVTTI'k'b  ri»«T  WIFE. — A  BTORM. — TURTLES. —  LIONS. A  BEDOUIN  BOB- 
BER.  BEAVERS. — RIDE     TO     LEDJMIVAT. A    PLUJfnEBlNO    EXPEDITION.  —  LOSS    or     A 

UiWC. — tIJINS    or    aUBMSHANI. A.    TRADtTtoM. JEeotIRS    STRIKE   THEIR   TENT*. RE- 

TUBW    TO    ABOAN. — VISIT    TO    MOOHAMIS,      •  - 

In  the  preceding  chapter  I  have  giSlHkaccount  of  the  discoveries 
made  in  the  rnins  of  Arban,  I  will  n(>%V!  adaiS^^  notes  of  our  residence 
OQ  the  Khabour.  A  skeloh  of  Arab  lit'.*,  and  a  dwcription  of  a  coualrj-  not 
previously  visited  by  European  travellers,  may  be  new  and  not  uninterest- 
ing to  my  readers. 

During  the  time  we  dwelt  at  Arban,  we  were  the  guests  and  under  the 
protection  of  Mohammed  Emin,  the  Sheikh  of  the  Jebours.  On  the  day 
we  crossed  the  river,  he  celebrated  our  arrival  by  a  feast  after  the  Arab 
faahion,  to  which  the  notables  of  the  tribe  were  invited.  Sheep,  fta  usual. 
were  boiled  and  served  up  piecemeal  in  large  wooden  Ibo^vls,  with  a  masa 
of  butter  and  bread  soaked  in  the  gravy.  The  chiePs  tent  was  spacioos, 
though  poorly  furnished.     It  was  the  general  resort  of  those  who  chanced 

confusion  m  the  geographical  details.  The  cities  on  the  Khabour,  mentioned  l«y  the 
Arab  jfeographers,  are  Karki6ia<CirceBiLim,  al  ihe  junclion  or  the  nver  with  the  Eu- 
phrates), Maki-sccn  (of  which  I  cuiilcl  find  no  trace),  .^rhan,  and  Khabuur.  I  have 
not  >)een  able  lo  discover  the  site  of  any  rum  of  tlip  sumc  tianic  aa  the  river.  Kar- 
kiflia,  when  visited  in  the  twelfth  century  hy  Dcrijamin  of  Tudela,  contained  ahout 
.■jOO  Jewish  inhahitants,  under  two  Rabhis.     According  to  Ibn  Havikal,  it  was  sur- 

Cardens  and  cultivated  lands.    The  spot  is  now  inhabited  by  a  tribe  of 


^ 


NmXVEH  AHV  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XIII. 


to  wander,  either  on  buaineaa  or  for  pleasure,  to  the  Khahour,  and  waa,  con- 
sequently, never  without  a  goodly  array  of  guests  ;  from  a  company  of 
Shamniur  horsemen  out  on  a  foray  to  the  solitary  Bedouin  who  was  seek- 
ing to  become  a  warrior  in  his  tribe,  by  first  stealing  ft  raare  from  some 
hosliie  encampment. 

Amongst  the  strangers  partaking,  at  the  time  of  our  risit,  of  the  Sheikh's 
hospitality,  were  Scrhan,  a  chief  of  the  Agaydat,  and  Dervish  Agha,  the 
hereditary  Lord  of  Nisibin,  the  ancient  Nisibis.  The  tents  of  the  i'ormer 
were  at  the  junction  of  the  Khahour  and  Euphrates,  near  Karklsia  (the 
ancient  Carchemish),  or,  as  it  is  more  generally  called  by  the  Arabs,  Aboo- 
Psera.*  The  fertile  meadows  near  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers  for- 
merly belonged  to  the  Jebours,  who  occupied  the  banks  of  the  Khabour 
throughout  nearly  the  whole  of  its  course.  An  old  feud  kept  them  at  con- 
tinual war  with  the  great  tribe  of  the  Aneyza.  They  long  successfully 
struggled  with  their  enemies,  but  having  at  length  been  overpowered  by 
superior  numbers,  they  lost  their  horses,  their  flocks,  their  personal  proper- 
ty, and  even  their  tents.  Thus  loft  naked  and  houseless,  they  sought  ref- 
uge in  the  neighborhood  of  Mosul,  and  learnt  to  cultivate  the  soil  and  to 
become  subjects  of  the  Turks,  The  Agaydat,  who  before  dwelt  principally 
on  the  western  banks  of  the  Euphrates,  crossed  the  river  and  seized  the  de- 
serted pastures.  The  Jebours  who  had  returned  to  the  Khabour,  claimed 
their  former  encamping  grounds,  and  threatened  to  reoccupy  them  by  force 
of  arms.  It  was  to  settle  these  diSerences  that  Scrhan  had  visited  Mo- 
hammed Emin.  After  remaining  two  or  three  days,  he  went  back  to  his 
tents  without,  however,  having  succeeded  in  his  mif^sion.  I  learnt  from 
him  that  there  were  many  ytificial  mounds  near  the  confluence  of  the 
rivers,  but  he  had  never  he^M,  l(pr  had  Mohammed  Emin,  of  any  sculp- 
tures, or  other  monumeiiM^f  antiquity,  having  been  found  in  them. 

Dervish  Agha,  of  Kunilsh  descent,  was  the  representative  of  au  ancient 
family,  whose  members  were  formerly  the  semi- independent  chiefs  of  Nisi- 
bin and  the  surrounding  districts.     He  was  still  the  recognised  Mutesellim, 
or  governor  of  that  place,  aud  had  been  sent  to  Mohammed  Emin  by  the 
commander  of  the  Turkish  troops,  one  Suleiman  Agha,  who  was  at  this 
time  encamped  in  the  plain  beneath  Mardia.     His  business  was  to  prevail 
upon  the  Jebour  Sheikh  to  assist  Ferhan  in  recovering  the  plundered  treas- 
ure from  the  Hanioud,  and  to  visit  afterwards  the  encampment  of  the 
Agha,  with  both  whicli  requests  hia  host  had  good  reasons  not  to  comply. 
My  own  large  tent  was  no  less  a  place  of  resort  than  that  of  Mohamcoed 
Emin,  and  as  we  were  objects  of  curiosity,  Bedouins  from  all  parts  Hocked 
to  see  us.     With  some  of  them  I  was  already  acquainted,  having  either  re- 
ceived them  as  my  guests  at  Mosul,  or  met  them  during  excursions  iu  the 
Desert.     They  generally  passed  one  night  with  us,  and  then  returned  to 
XhevT  own  tents.     A  sheep  was  always  slain  for  tliecn.  and  boiled  with  rice, 
•  CoL  Cbeeaey  slates  that  the  real  name  is  "  Aljou  Serai,"  "  the  father  (or  chief) 
•rpdaces;"  inch  may  be  the  case 


Chap.  XIII.]  ^''^  i''^^^  °^  grinding  corn.  245 

or  prepared  wheat,  in  the  Arab  way :  if  there  were  not  itrangera  enough 
to  consume  the  whole,  the  rest  was  given  to  the  workmen  or  to  the  needy, 
as  it  is  considered  derogatory  to  the  character  of  a  truly  hospitable  and  gen- 
erous man  to  keep  meat  until  the  following  day,  or  to  serve  it  up  a  second 
time  when  cold.  Even  the  poorest  Bedouin  who  kills  a  sheep,  invites  all 
his  friends  and  neighbours  to  the  repast,  and  if  there  be  still  any  remnants, 
distributes  them  amongst  the  poor  and  the  hungry,  although  he  should 
himself  want  on  the  monow. 

We  brought  provision  of  flour  with  us,  and  the  Jebours  had  a  little  wheat 
raised  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  wandering  Arabs  have  no  other 
means  of  grinding  their  com  than  by  handmills,  which  they  carry  with  them 
wherever  they  go.  They  are  always  worked  by  the  women,  for  it  is  con- 
sidered unworthy  of  a  man  to  engage  in  any  domestic  occupation.  These 
handmills  are  simply  two  circular  flat  stones,  generally  about  eighteen  inches 
in  diameter,  the  upper  turning  loosely  upon  a  wooden  pivot,  and  moved 
quickly  round  by  a  wooden  handle.  The  grain  is  poured  through  the  hole 
of  the  pivot,  and  the  flour  is  collected  in  a  cloth  spread  under  the  mill.  It 
is  then  mixed  with  water,  kneaded  in  a  wooden  bowl,  and  pressed  by  the 
hand  into  round  balls  ready  for  baking.  During  these  processes,  the  women 
are  nsaally  seated  on  the  bare  ground  :  hence,  in  Isaiah,*  ia  the  daughter 
of  Babylon  told  to  sit  in  the  dust  and  on  the  ground,  and  "  to  take  the  mill- 
stones to  grind  meal." 

The  tribes  who  are  always  moving  from  place  to  place  bake  their  bread 
on  a  slightly  convex  iron  plate,  called  a  sadj,  moderately  heated  over  a  low 
fire  of  brubhwood  or  camels'  dung.  The  lumps  of  dough  are  rolled,  on  a 
wooden  platter,  into  thin  cakes,  a  foot  or  more  in  diameter,  and  laid  by 
means  of  the  roller  upon  the  iron.  They  are  baked  in  a  very  short  time, 
and  should  be  eaten  hot.f  The  Kurds,  whose  flour  is  far  whiter  and  more 
carefully  prepared  than  that  of  the  Arabs,  roll  the  dough  into  large  cakes, 
scarcely  thicker  than  a  sheet  of  paper.  When  carefully  baked  by  the  same 
process,  it  becomes  crisp  and  exceedingly  agreeable  to  the  taste.  The  Arab 
tribes,  that  remain  for  many  days  in  one  place,  make  rude  ovens  by  dig- 
ging a  hole  about  three  feet  deep,  shaping  it  like  a  reversed  funnel,  and 
plastering  it  with  mud.  They  heat  it  by  burning  brushwood  within,  and 
then  stick  the  lumps  of  dough,  pressed  into  small  cakes  about  half  an  inch 
thick,  to  the  sides  with  the  hand.  The  bread  is  ready  in  two  or  three  min- 
utes. When  horsemen  go  on  an  expedition,  they  either  carry  with  them 
the  thin  bread  first  described,  or  a  bag  of  flour,  which,  when  they  come  to 

•  xlTii.  1,  2. 

t  See  woodcut  at  the  head  of  this  chapter.  Such  was  probably  the  process  of 
making  bread  mentioned  in  2  Saoi.  xiii.  8,  9.  "  So  Tamar  went  to  her  brother  Am- 
Don's  house ;  and  he  was  laid  down.  And  she  took  flour  and  knesided  it,  and  made 
cakes  in  his  tight,  and  did  bake  the  cakes.  And  she  took  a  pan  and  poured  them  out 
bef(R«  him."  It  will  be  observed  that  the  bread  was  made  at  once,  without  leaven ; 
soch  also  was  probably  the  bread  that  Abraham  commanded  Sarah  to  make  for  the 
three  angels.    (Gen.  xviiL  6.) 


246 


HWKVEH  AND  BABYLOK, 


[Chap.  XIH. 


water,  they  moisten  and  knead  on  their  cloaks,  and  then  bake  by  covering 
the  balls  of  douph  with  hot  ashes.     All  Arab  bread  is  unleavened. 

If  a  Bedoiiiti  tribe  be  m<»virig  in  great  baste  before  an  enemy,  and  should 
be  unable  to  stop  for  many  hours,  or  be  making  a  forced  march  to  avoid 
pursuit  over  a  desert  where  the  wells  are  verj'  distant  from  each  other,  the 
women  sometimes  prepare  bread  whilst  riding  on  camels.  The  fire  is  then 
lighted  in  an  earthen  vessel.  One  woman  kneads  the  flour,  a  second  roUi , 
nut  the  doiiph,  and  a  thiid  bakes,  boys  or  women  on  foot  passing  the  ma- 
terials, as  reqnirod,  from  one  to  the  other.  But  it  is  very  rare  that  the  Be- 1 
douitis  are  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  this  process,  and  I  have  only  once 
witnessed  it. 

The  fuel  used  by  the  Arabs  consists  chiefly  of  the  dwarf  shrubs,  grow- 
itrjTf  in  most  parts  of  the  Desert,  of  dry  grass  and  of  camels'  dang.  They 
Irequently  carry  bags  of  the  latter  with  them  when  in  summer  they  march 
liver  very  arid  tracts.  On  the  banks  of  the  great  rivers  of  Mesopotamia, 
the  tamarisk  and  other  trees  furnish  them  with  abundant  (irewood.  They 
are  entirely  dependent  for  their  supplies  of  wheat  upon  the  villages  on  the 
borders  of  the  Desert,  or  on  the  sedentary  Arabs,  who,  whilst  living  in  tenta,. 
cultivate  the  soil.  Sometimes  a  tribe  is  fortunate  enough  to  plunder  a  a 
avan  laden  with  corn,  or  to  sack  the  granaries  of  a  village  ;  they  have  then' 
enough  to  satisfy  their  wants  for  some  innutha.  But  the  Bedouins  usually 
draw  near  to  the  towns  and  cultivated  districts  sonn  alter  the  harvest,  to 
lay  in  their  stock  of  grain.  A  party  of  men  and  women,  chosen  by  their 
companions,  then  take  with  them  money,  or  objects  for  sale  or  exchange, 
and  drive  the  camels  to  the  villages,  where  they  load  them  and  retnrn  to 
llieir  tents.  Latterly  a  new  and  very  extensive  trade  has  been  opened  with 
the  Bedouins  for  the  wool  of  their  sheep,  much  prized  for  its  superior  quol- J 
ity  in  European  markets.  As  the  time  for  shearing  is  soon  after  the  har- 
vest, the  Arabs  have  ready  means  of  obtaining  their  supplies,  as  well  as 
of  making  a  little  money,  and  buying  finery  and  arms. 

Nearly  the  whole  revenue  of  an  Arab  Sheikh,  whatever  it  may  be,  is 
laid  out  in  corn,  rice,  and  other  provisions.  The  quantity  of  food  consumed 
in  the  tents  of  some  of  the  great  chiefs  of  the  Bedouins  is  very  considerable. 
Almost  ever}'  traveller  who  passes  the  encampment  eats  bread  with  the 
Sheikh,  and  there  are  generally  many  guests  dwelling  under  his  canva«. 
In  times  of  difficulty  or  scarcity,  moreover,  tho  whole  tribe  frequently  ex- 
pects to  be  fed  by  him,  and  he  considers  himaelf  bound,  even  under  such 
circumstances,  by  the  duties  of  hospitality,  to  give  all  that  he  has  to  the 
needy.  The  extraordinary  generosity  di.splayed  on  such  occasions  by  their 
I'hiffs  forma  Bome  of  the  most  favourite  stories  of  the  Arabs. 

The  common  Bedouin  can  rarely  get  meat.  His  food  consists  almost  ex- 
olusii.'ely  of  wheaten  bread  with  truffles,  which  are  found  in  great  abund- 
anoc  during  the  spring,  a  few  wild  herbs,  such  as  asparagns,  onions,  and 
garlic,  fresh  butler,  curds,  and  sour  inilk.  But,  at  certain  seasons,  even 
these  luxuries  cannot  be  obtained  :  for  months  together  he  oflen  eats  bread 


Chap.  XUI.l 


FOOD  OF  THE  BEDOUINS. 


247 


alone.  The  Sheikhs  usually  slay  a  sheep  every  day,  of  which  their  ^esU,  a 
few  of  their  relatives,  aud  their  immediate  adherents  partake.  The  wom- 
en prepare  the  food,  and  always  ekt  alter  the  men,  who  rarely  leave  them 
much  wherewith  to  satisfy  their  hunger. 

The  dish  usually  seen  in  a  Bedouin  tent  is  a  mess  of  boiled  meat,  some- 
times mixed  with  onions,  upon  which  a  lump  of  fresh  butter  is  placed  and 
allowed  to  melt.  The  broad  tail  of  the  Mesopolamian  sheep  is  used  for 
grease  when  there  is  no  butler.  Soraetintes  cakes  of  bread  are  laid  under 
the  meat,  and  the  entertainer  tearing  up  the  thin  loaves  into  small  pieces, 
soaks  them  in  the  gravy  with  his  hands.  The  Aneyza  make  very  savory 
dishes  of  chopped  meat  and  bread  mixed  with  sour  curds,  over  which,  wheu 
the  huge  platter  is  placed  before  the  guest,  is  ptnired  a  Hood  of  melted  but- 
ler. Roasted  meat  is  very  rarely  seen  in  a  Bedouin  tent.  Rice  i*  only 
eaten  by  the  Sheikhs,  except  amongst  the  tribes  who  encamp  in  the  marshes 
of  Southern  Mesopotamia,  where  rice  of  an  inferior  quality  is  very  Lirgely 
cultivated.     There  it  is  boiled  with  meat  and  made  ijilo  pilaws. 

The  Bedouins  do  not  make  cheese.  The  milk  of  their  sheep  and  goats 
ia  shaken  into  butter  or  turned  into  curds :  it  is  rarely  or  never  drank  fresh, 
new  milk  being  thought  very  unwholesome,  as  by  experience  I  soon  found 
it  to  be,  in  the  Desert.  I  have  frequt-utly  had  occasion  to  describe  the  pro- 
cess of  making  butter  by  shaking  the  milk  in  skins.  This  is  also  an  em- 
ployment contincd  to  the  women,  and  one  of  a  very  laborious  nature.  The 
curds  are  formed  by  boiUng  the  milk,  and  then  putting  some  of  the  curds 
made  on  the  previous  day  into  it  and  allowing  it  to  stand.  When  the  sheep 
no  longer  give  milk,  some  curds  arc  dried,  to  be  used  as  leaven  on  a  future 
occasion.  This  preparation,  called  leben,  is  thick  and  acid,  but  very  agree- 
able and  grateful  to  the  taste  in  a  hot  climate.  The  sour  milk,  or  shcnee- 
na,  an  universal  beverage  amongst  the  Arabs,  is  either  butter-milk  pure 
and  diluted,  or  ciuds  mixed  with  water.  Camels'  milk  is  drank  fresh.  It 
is  pleasatit  to  the  taste,  rich,  and  exceedingly  nouriahiiig.  It  is  given  in 
large  quantities  to  the  horses.  The  Shatnmar  and  Aneyza  Bedouins  have 
no  cows  or  oxen,  those  animals  being  looked  upon  as  the  peculiar  properly 
of  tribes  who  have  forgotten  their  independence,  and  degraded  themselves 
by  the  cuJtivatton  of  land.  The  sheep  are  milked  at  dawn,  or  even  before 
daybreak,  and  aguin  in  the  evening  un  their  return  from  the  pastures.  The 
milk  is  immediately  turned  into  leben,  or  boiled  to  be  shaken  into  butter 
Amongst  the  Bedouins  and  Jebours  it  is  considered  derogatory  to  the  char 
aoter  of  a  man  (o  milk  a  cow  or  a  sheep,  but  not  to  milk  a  camel. 

The  Sheikhs  occasionully  obtain  dales  from  the  cities.  They  are  either 
eaten  dry  with  bread  and  lebeu,  or  fried  in  butter,  a  very  favourite  dish  of 
the  Bedouin.* 

To  this  spare  and  simple  dish  the  Bedouins  owe  their  freedom  from  siok- 

•  In  speaking  of  Ihr  Bedouins  J  mean  tlie  Aney^B,  Slianimar,  .\\  Dliefyr,  ami  otber 
great  tribes  inhabiting  Mtsopoianiia  and  the  De«crt  to  the  nortli  of  the  Gcbel  Stianir- 
mar.    With  the  Arabs  or  the  Hedjaz  and  Central  Arabia  I  am  unacquainted. 


848 


NINEVBB  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XHI. 


nets,  and  their  extraordinary  power  of  bearing  fatigue.  Disoases  are  rare 
amongst  them  ;  and  the  epidcmicB,  which  rage  in  the  cities,  soldom  reach, 
their  tents.  The  cholera,  which  has  of  late  visited  Mosul  and  Baghdadi 
with  fearful  severity,  has  not  yet  struck  the  Bedouins,  and  they  have 
quently  escaped  the  plague,  when  the  settlements  on  the  borders  of  the  Des- 
ert have  been  nearly  depopulated  by  it.  The  small  pox,  however,  occasion- 
ally makes  great  havoc  amongst  them,  vaccination  being  still  unknown 
to  the  Shamrnar,  and  intermittent  fever  prevails  in  ihc  autumn,  particular- 
ly when  the  tribes  encamp  near  the  marshes  in  Southern  Mesopotamia. 
Rheumatism  is  not  uncommon,  and  is  treated,  like  most  local  complaints, 
with  the  actual  cautery,  a  red  hot  iron  being  applied  vcrj'  freely  to  the  part 
adected.  Another  cure  for  rheumatism  consists  in  killing  a  sheep  and  plac- 
ing the  patient  in  the  hot  reeking  skin. 

Ophthalmia  is  common  in  the  desert  as  well  as  in  all  other  parts  of  th« 
East,  and  may  be  attributed  as  much  to  dirt  and  neglect  as  to  any  other 
cause. 

The  Bedouins  are  acquainted  with  few  medicines.  The  Desert  yields 
some  valuable  simples,  which  are,  however,  rarely  used.  Dr.  Ciiandwith 
hearing  from  Suttum  that  the  Arabs  had  no  opiates,  asked  what  they  did 
with  one  who  could  not  sleep.  "Dot"  answered  the  Sheikh,  "why,  we 
make  use  of  him,  and  set  him  to  watch  the  camels."  If  a  Bedouin  be  ill, 
or  have  received  a  wound,  he  sometimes  comes  to  the  nearest  town  lo  con- 
sult the  barbers,  who  are  frequently  not  unskilful  surgeons.  Hadjir,  one  of 
the  great  chiefs  of  the  Shammar,  having  been  struck  by  a  musket  ball  which 
lodged  beneath  the  sVioulder-blade,  visited  the  Pasha  of  Mosul  to  obtain  the 
aid  of  the  European  surgeons  attached  lo  the  Turkish  troops.  They  de- 
clared an  operation  to  be  impossible,  and  refused  to  undertake  it.  The 
Sheikh  applied  to  a  barber,  who  in  his  shop,  in  the  open  bazar,  quietly  cut 
down  to  the  ball,  and  taking  it  out  brought  it  to  the  Pasha  in  a  plate,  to 
claim  a  reward  for  his  skill.  It  is  true  that  the  European  surgeons  in  the 
service  of  the  Porte  arc  not  very  eminent  in  their  profession.  The  Bedoaiiu 
set  broken  limbs  by  means  of  nide  splints. 

The  women  suffer  little  in  labor,  which  often  takes  place  during  a  march, 
or  when  they  are  far  from  the  encampment  watering  the  flocks  or  collect- 
ing fuel.  They  allow  their  children  to  remain  at  the  breast  until  they  are 
nearly  two  and  even  three  years  old,  and,  consequently,  have  rarely  many 
odspring. 

Soon  nfker  our  arrival  at  the  Khahour  I  bought  a  deloni,  or  dromedary, 
as  more  convenient  than  a  horse  for  making  excursions  in  the  Desert.  Her 
name  was  Sahaima,  and  she  belonged  to  Moghamis,  the  uncle  ofSutturo. 
having  been  taken  by  him  from  the  Aneyza;  she  was  well  trained,  and 
swift  and  easy  in  her  paces.  The  best  dclouls  come  from  Nedjd  and  the 
Gebel  Shainctiar.  They  are  small  and  liphlly  made,  the  difference  be- 
tween them  and  a  common  camel  being  as  great  as  that  between  a  high- 
bred Arab  mare  and  an  English  cart-horse.      Their  powers  of  endurance 


Chap.  XI  II. 


HOSTILB  REPORT. 


U9 


■re  very  great.  Suttum  mentioned  the  following  as  well  authenticated 
instances.  With  a  companion,  each  being  on  his  own  dromedary,  he  once 
rode  from  Ana  to  Rowah  in  one  day,  one  of  the  aniinaU,  however,  dying 
•oon  alter  they  reached  their  journey's  end.  An  Arab  of  the  Hainond,  leav- 
ing an  encampnienl  about  five  miles  inland  from  Dair,  on  the  we.st  bank 
of  the  Euphrates,  reached  Koukab  within  twenty-four  hours.  Suttum  rode 
from  Mosul  to  Khatouniyah  in  two  days.* 

The  deluul  is  much  prized,  and  the  race  is  carefully  preserved.  The 
Arabs  breed  from  them  once  in  two  years,  and  are  very  particular  in  the 
choice  of  the  male.  An  ordinary  animal  can  work  for  twenty  years.  Sut- 
tum assured  me  that  they  could  travel  in  the  spring  as  many  as  six  days 
without  water.  Their  color  is  generally  light  brown  and  white,  darker 
colors  and  black  are  more  uncommon.  Their  pace  is  a  light  trot  kept  up 
for  many  hours  together  without  fatigue  ;  they  can  increase  it  to  an  tin- 
wieldly  gallop,  a  speed  they  cannot  long  maintain.  A  good  deloul  is  worth 
at  the  most  10/.,  the  common  price  is  about  5/. 

After  the  day's  work  at  Arbau  1  generally  rode  with  Suttum  into  the 
Desert  on  our  dclouU,  with  the  hawks  and  greyhounds.  During  these  rides 
over  the  flowered  greensward,  the  Arab  Sheikh  would  entertain  me  with 
stories  of  his  tribe,  of  their  wars  and  inlrigucg,  their  successful  plundering 
expe<litions,  and  their  occasional  defeats.  In  the  evening  Mohammed  Emin 
would  join  our  party  in  the  tent,  remaining  until  the  night  was  far  epent. 
Both  the  Arab  chiefs  were  much  troubled  by  the  report  of  an  expedition 
against  the  tribes,  to  which  the  approach  of  Suleiman  Agha,  with  a  con- 
siderable body  of  troops,  to  tht'  upper  part  of  the  Khabour,  had  given  rise. 
However,  the  season  was  too  far  advanced  for  the  march  of  an  army  through 
the  waterless  plains  of  Mesopotamia.  A  general  campaign  against  the  Be- 
doains  must  be  undertaken  in  the  winter,  or  very  early  in  the  spring,  and 
even  then,  if  organised  by  the  Turks,  would  probably  fail.  The  Shammar 
would  at  once  leave  Mesopotamia,  and  take  refuge  in  the  deserts  of  Nedjd, 
where  no  troops  could  follow  them.  They  would,  of  course,  abandon  their 
flocks  and  the  greater  part  of  their  camels,  but  they  would  be  ready  to  re- 
torn  as  soon  as  the  enemy  retreated  from  the  open  country,  and  to  revenge 
themselves  amply  for  their  losses  upon  the  unprotected  population  of  the 
cultivated  districts.  To  bring  the  Bedouins  under  subjection,  a  regular  syt- 
tem,  steadily  pursued,  and  well  selected  military  posts,  are  essentially  nec- 
essary. 

The  grass  around  Arban  having  been  eaten  by  the  flocks,  the  Jeboura 
struck  their  tents  at  dawn  on  the  'tth  of  April,  and  wandered  down  the  Kha- 

•  Durckhardt  (Notes  on  llic  Dcdoiiina,  A-f .  |i.  802  )  mrntions  asthehcsl  anlhenti- 
cated  instance  of  the  womlerful  speed  and  endurance  of  a  delmil  wliifh  had  come  to 
his  knowledge,  a  journey  for  a  wager,  of  115  miles  in  eleven  hours,  indudinc  twenty 
mimrtes  in  crossing  the  Nile  twice  in  a  ferry-boat.  As  that  traveller,  however,  justly 
remarks,  it  is  by  ihc  case  wiih  which  they  can  carry  ihpir  rider  during  an  uninter- 
rupted journey  of  steveral  days  and  oiKhca  at  a  kind  of  easy  amblo  of  five,  or  five  and 
a  half  mtlea,  an  hour,  that  they  are  unequalled  by  any  other  animal. 


850 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[OnAT.  xm. 


bour  in  scarcli  of  freak  pastures.    TheBoraij,  too,  moved  further  inland  froiBi 
the  nver.     During  lh«  whole  morning  the  Desert  around  the  ruins  was  m 
busy  Bcene;  sheep,  catUw,  buasU  of  burden,  men,  women,  aud  children  be- 
ing Ri-attered  far  and  wide  over  the  plain.     By  midday  the  crowd  had  di»- , 
appeared,  and  the  inoadowg,  which  a  few  hours  belbre  had  been  teeming  with  ' 
living  things,  were  now  again  left  lonely  and  bare.     1  know  no  feeling  more 
melancholy  than  that  caused  by  the  sudden  breaking  up  of  a  large  tribe, 
and  by  the  sight  of  the  spent  fires  and  rubbish-heaps  of  a  recent  encamp- 
ment; the  silence  and  sotitude  which  have  suddenly  succeeded  to  the  busy 
scene  of  an  Arab  community.     Mohammed  Emin  alone,  with  a  few  Shera- 
been  Araba,  remained  (o  protect  us. 

Soou  after  our  arrival  at  the  Khabour,  Adla,  Suttum's  first  wife,  came  i 
us  with  her  child.  After  the  Sheikh's  marriage  with  Rathaiyah,  «ho  ha 
been  driven  from  her  husband's  tent  by  the  imperious  temper  of  his  nei 
bride,  aud  had  returned  to  Moghamis  her  father.  Her  eldest  sister  was  tfa 
wife  of  Suttum's  eldest  brother  Sahiman,  and  her  youngest,  Maizi,  was  ' 
trothed  to  Sutlum's  youngest  brother  Midjwell.  The  three  were  remark- 
able for  their  beauty  ;  their  dark  cyys  had  the  true  Bedouin  fire,  and  their 
long  black  hair  fell  in  clusters  on  their  shoulders.  Their  cousins,  the  three 
brothers,  had  claimed  them  as  their  brides  according  to  Bedouin  law.* 
Adla  now  sought  to  be  reconciled  through  me  to  her  husband.  Rathaiyah, 
the  new  wife,  whose  beauty  was  already  on  the  wane,  dreaded  her  youD{; 
rival's  share  in  the  afl'ections  of  her  lord,  over  whom  she  had  established 
more  influence  than  a  lady  might  be  supposed  to  exercise  over  her  spouse 
amongst  independent  Arabs.  The  Sheikh  was  afraid  to  meet  Adla,  until, 
after  much  negotiation,  Hormuzd  acting  as  ambassador,  the  proud  Rathai- 
yah consented  to  receive  her  in  her  tent.  Then  the  injured  lady  refused 
to  accept  the&e  terms,  and  the  matter  was  only  finished  by  Hormuzd  tak- 
ing her  by  the  arm  and  dragging  her  by  force  over  the  grass  to  her  rival. 
There  all  tlie  outward  forms  of  perfect  reconciliation  were  satisfactorily  gone 
through,  although  Sutlum  evidently  saw  that  there  was  a  diiierent  recep- 
tion in  store  for  himself  when  there  were  no  European  eye-witnesses.  Such 
are  the  trials  of  married  life  in  the  Desert! 

I  may  here  mention  that  polygamy  is  very  common  amongst  the  Bedou- 
ins. It  is  considered  disgraceful  for  a  man  to  accept  money  for  his  daugh- 
ter, according  to  the  custom  in  towns  and  amongst  the  cultivating  tribes . 
and  a  girl  cannot  be  forced  against  her  will  to  marry  a  man  unless  he  be 
her  cousin,  and  legally  entitled  to  demand  her  hand. 

On  the  tith  of  April  we  witnessed  a  remarkabllc  electrical  phenomenon. 
During  the  day  heavy  clouds  had  been  hanging  on  the  horizon,  foreboding 
one  of  those  furious  storins  which  at  this  lime  of  the  year  occasionally  visit 
the  Desert.  Late  in  the  afternoon  these  clouds  had  gathered  into  one  vast 
circle,  which  moved  slowly  round  like  an  enormous  wheel,  presenting  one 

•  Amongst  the  Bedouins  a  man  liaa  a  ri^fit  to  demanfl  his  cousin  m  marriage,  and 
she  cannot  refuse  him. 


Chap.  Xlll.] 

of  tb«  most  extraordinftry  and  awful  appearances  I  ever  saw.  From  iu 
sides  leaped,  without  ceasing,  forked  flames  of  lightning.  Clouds  spring- 
ing up  from  all  sides  of  ihe  heavens,  were  dragged  hurriedly  inlo  the  vor- 
tex, which  advanced  gradually  towards  us,  and  threatened  soon  to  break 
©▼er  our  encampment.  Fortunately,  however,  we  only  felt  the  very  edge 
of  the  storm, — a.  deluge  of  rain  and  of  hail  of  the  size  of  pigeons'  eggs.  Tho 
great  rolling  cloud,  attracted  by  the  Sinjar  hill,  soon  passed  away,  le^iviDg 
iu  undiminished  splendor  the  sotltng  sun. 

Monday,  Sth  of  April.  The  Mogdesai,  one  of  my  servants,  caught  a 
turtle  in  the  river  measuring  three  feet  in  length.  The  Arabs  have  many 
stories  of  the  voracity  of  thc&u  animals,  which  attain,  I  am  assured,  to  even 
a  larger  size,  and  Suttum  declared  that  a  man  hail  been  pulled  under  wa- 
ter  and  devoured  by  one,  probably  an  Arab  exaggeration. 

A  Bedouin,  who  bad  been  attacked  by  a  lion  whilst  resting,  about  dve 
hours  lower  down  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  came  to  our  eacampment.  lie 
had  escaped  with  the  lo&s  of  his  marc.  The  liun  is  not  uncommon  in  the 
jungles  of  the  Khabour,  and  the  Bedouins  and  Jebours  frequently  find  their 
cubs  iu  the  spring  season. 

In  the  ai'tcrnoon,  Mohammed  Emin  learned  that  the  Shcrabeen  buffalo 
keepers,  who  lived  under  his  prnlecliun  paying  a  small  annual  tribute, 
were  about  to  leave  him  for  the  Tai  of  Nisibin,  with  whom  the  Jebours 
had  a  blood  feud.  The  Sheikh  asked  the  help  of  my  workmea  to  bring 
back  the  refractory  tribe,  who  were  encamped  about  three  hours  up  tho 
river,  and  the  parly  inarched  in  the  evening  singing  their  war  songs. 

April  ^.Uh.  Messengers  arrived  during  the  night  lor  further  assistance, 
and  Suttum  mounting  his  rnare  joined  the  combatants.  Early  in  the  morn- 
ing the  Jebours  returned  in  triutnpb,  driving  the  flocks  and  buffaloes  of  the 
Sherabeen  before  them.  They  were  soon  followed  by  the  tribe,  who  were 
compelled  to  pitch  (heir  tents  near  our  encampment. 

A  Bedouin  youth,  thin  and  sickly,  though  of  a  daring  and  resolute  coun- 
tenance, sat  in  my  guest  tent.  His  singxilar  appearance  at  once  drew  ray 
attention.  His  only  clothing  was  a  kerchief,  very  dirty  and  torn,  falling 
over  his  head,  and  a  ragged  cloak,  which  ho  drew  tightly  round  him,  al- 
lowing tho  end  of  a  knotted  club  to  appear  above  its  fi)lds.  His  story, 
which  he  was  at  length  induced  to  tell,  was  characteristic  of  Bedouin  ed- 
acatioa.  He  was  of  the  Boraij  tribe,  and  related  to  Suttum.  His  father 
was  too  poor  to  equip  him  with  mare  and  spear,  and  he  was  ashamed  to 
be  seen  by  the  Arabs  on  foot  and  unarmed.  Ho  had  now  become  a  man, 
for  he  was  about  fourteen  years  old,  and  he  resolved  Co  trust  to  his  own 
•kill  for  his  outfit  as  a  warrior.  Leaving  in  his  father's  tent  all  his  clothes, 
except  his  dirty  kcflieh  and  his  tattered  aba,  and,  without  communicating 
his  plans  to  his  friends,  he  bent  his  way  to  the  Euphrates.  For  three 
months  his  family  hearing  nothiug  of  him,  believed  him  to  be  dead,  Dur- 
mg  that  time,  however,  he  had  lived  in  the  river  jungle,  feeding  on  roots 
and  herbs,  hiding  himself  during  the  day  in  the  thickets,  and  prowling  at 


2d2 


NINEVSIT  ANO  BABYIOX 


fCa»p.  xm. 


night  round  the  tents  of  the  Aneyza  in  search  of  a  mare  that  might  have 
strayed,  or  might  be  less  carefully  guarded  than  usual.  At  length  the  ob- 
ject of  his  ambition  was  found,  and  such  a  mare  had  never  been  seen  be- 
fore ;  but,  alas  1  her  legs  were  bound  with  iron  shackles,  and  he  had  brought 
no  tile  with  him.  He  succeeded  in  leading  her  to  some  distance  from  the 
encarapineiit,  where,  as  morning  dawned,  to  avoid  detection,  he  was  obliged 
to  leave  his  prize  and  return  to  his  hiding-place.  He  was  now  on  his  way 
back  to  hia  tents,  intending  to  set  forth  again,  after  recruiting  his  strength, 
on  new  adventures  in  search  of  a  mare  and  spear,  promising  to  be  wiser 
in  future  and  to  carry  a  file  under  his  cloak.  Suttum  seemed  very  proud 
of  his  relative,  and  mlroduced  him  to  me  as  a  promising,  if  not  distinguish- 
ed, character.*  It  is  thought  no  disgrace  thus  to  steal  a  mare  as  long  aa 
the  thief  has  not  eaten  bread  in  the  tent  of  her  owner. 

April  1  l//t.  The  waters  of  this  river  had  been  rising  rapidly  since  the 
recent  storm,  and  now  spread  over  the  meadows.  We  moved  our  tents, 
and  the  Arabs  took  refuge  on  the  mound,  which  stood  like  an  island  in  the 
midst  of  the  flood.  The  Jebonrs  killed  four  beavers,  and  brought  three  of 
their  young  to  us  alive.  They  had  been  driven  from  their  holes  by  the 
swollen  stream.  Mohammed  Emin  eagerly  accepted  the  musk  bags,  which 
are  much  valued  as  -majouns  by  the  Turks,  and,  coiiser|uently,  fetch  a  large 
price  in  the  towns.  The  Arabs  eat  the  flesh,  and  it  was  cooked  for  us,  but 
proved  coarse  and  tough.  The  young  we  kept  for  some  days  on  milk,  but 
they  eventually  died.  Their  cry  resembled  that  of  a  new-born  infant. 
The  Kliabour  beavers  appeared  to  me  to  difler  in  several  respects  from 
the  American.  The  tail,  instead  of  being  large  and  broad,  was  short 
and  pointed.  They  do  nut  build  huts,  but  burrow  in  the  banks,  taking 
care  to  make  the  entrance  to  their  holes  below  the  surface  of  the  stream 
to  avoid  detection,  and  the  chambers  above,  out  of  reach  of  the  ordinary 
floods. 

Beavers  were  formerly  found  in  large  numbers  on  the  Khabour,  but  in 
consequence  of  the  value  attached  to  the  musk  bag,  they  have  been  hunted 
almost  to  extermination  by  the  Arabs.  Mohammed  Emin  assured  me  that 
for  several  years  not  more  than  one  or  two  had  been  seen,  Sofuk,  the  grea 
Shammar  Sheikh,  used  to  consider  the  musk  bag  of  a  beaver  the  most  ao-l 
ceptable  present  he  coidd  send  to  a  Turkish  Pasha,  whoso  friendship  he 
wished  to  secure. 

Two  Sheikhs  of  the  Buggara  Arabs,  who  inhabit  the  banks  of  the  Eo- 
phrates  opposite  Dair,  visited  our  encampment.  They  described  some  large 
mounds  near  their  tents,  called  Sen,  lo  which  they  o(fered  to  take  me ;  but 
I  was  unable  to  leave  my  party.     The  tribe  is  nominally  under  the  Pashi 


•  The  title  of  harajoni  (thief),  so  far  from  being  one  of  diegrace,  is  considered  ev- 
idence of  great  prowess  and  capacity  in  a  young  man.     Ijke  Ihe  Spartans  of  old  he 
tonly  suffers  if  caught  in  the  act.     There  was  a  man  of  the  Assaiyah  tribe  who  had 
established  an  iintncnse  renown  by  stealing  no  less  than  ninety  horses,  amongst  whicb 
was  the  celebrated  mare  given  by  Sofuk  to  Dcder  Khan  Uey. 


Chap.  XIII. 


MODND  OF  SltEOAOI. 


253 


of  Aleppo,  but  only  pay  him  taxes  whea  he  can  send  a  sufficiont  (brco  to 
collect  ihem. 

Our  encampment  was  further  increased  by  several  families  of  Jays,  -who 
had  fled  from  the  north  on  account  of  some  quarrel  with  the  rest  of  the 
tribe.  They  inhabit  the  country  round  the  ancient  liarran  and  Orfa,  the 
Ur  of  the  Chaldces,  and  still  called  Urrha  by  the  Bedouins. 

April  I2lh.  "We  rode  this  morning  with  Mohammed  Emin,  Suttum,  and 
the  Sheikhs  of  the  Biiggnra,  Jays,  and  Sherabeen,  to  the  touts  of  the  Je- 
hours,  which  had  now  been  moved  some  miles  down  the  river.  Rathaiyah 
remained  behind.  The  large  tents  and  the  workmen  were  left  under  the 
care  of  the  Bairakdar.  The  chiefs  were  mounted  on  well  bred  mares,  ex- 
cept one  of  the  Jays  Sheikhs,  who  rode  a  handsome  and  high-mettled  horse. 
He  was  gaily  dressed  in  a  scarlet  cloak  lined  with  fur,  a  many-colored  kof- 
fieh,  and  new  yellow  boots.  His  steed,  too,  was  profusely  adorned  with 
silken  tassels,  and  smalt  bells,  chains,  and  other  ornaments  of  silver,  re- 
minding me  forcibly  of  the  horses  of  the  Assyrian  sculptures.  He  had  been 
in  the  service  of  the  Turks,  whose  language  he  had  learned,  and  from  whom 
he  had  acquired  his  taste  for  finery.  He  was  a  graceful  rider,  and  man- 
aged his  horse  with  great  dexterity. 

About  three  miles  from  Arban  we  passed  a  small  artificial  mound  called 
Tel  Hamer  (the  red) ;  and  similar  ruins  abound  on.  the  banks  of  tlio  river. 
Near  it  we  met  four  Shammar  Bedouins,  who  had  turned  back  empty- 
handed  from  a  thieving  expetiition  to  the  Aney-za,  on  account  of  the  floods 
of  the  Euphrates,  which  they  described  as  spreading  over  the  surrounding 
country  like  a  sea. 

Throe  hours  from  Arban  we  reached  a  remarkable  artificial  mound 
called  Shedadi,  washed  by  the  Khabour.  It  consists  of  a  lofty  platform, 
nearly  square,  from  the  centre  (<f  which  springs  a  cone.  On  the  top  are 
the  tombs  of  several  Jebour  chiefs,  marked  by  the  raised  earth,  and  by  small 
trees  now  dry,  fixed  upright  in  the  graves.  I  found  fragments  of  pottery 
and  bricks,  but  no  trace  of  in4kBDtisn» 

Between  ishedadi  and  Arban  we  umw  several  ruined  bridges,  probably  of 
the  time  of  the  Caliphs.  The  mounds  are  evidently  the  remains  of  a  much 
earlier  civilisation,  when  the  Assyrian  empire  extended  far  beyond  the  Kha- 
bour, and  when,  as  we  learn  from  the  inscriptions,  the  whole  face  of  the 
country  M-as  covered  with  cities,  and  with  a  thriving  and  wealthy  population. 

"We  did  not  reach  the  encampment  of  Mohammed  Emin,  spreading  three 
or  four  miles  along  the  Khabour,  until  after  sunset.  The  chief's  tents 
were  pitched  near  a  mound  called  Ledjmiyat,  ou  a  bend  of  the  river,  and 
opposite  to  a  very  thick  :or  or  jungle,  known  to  the  Arabs  as  El  Boslan, 
"  the  garden,"  a  kind  of  stronghoiil  of  the  tribe,  which  the  Hheikh  declared 
could  resist  the  attack  of  any  number  oinizam  (regular  troops),  if  only  de- 
fended by  Jcbours.  Suttum  looked  upon  the  grove  rather  as  a  delicious 
retreat  from  the  rays  of  the  summer's  sun,  to  which  the  Boraij  oocasionally 
resorted,  than  as  a  place  for  war. 


254 


RINBVEU  AND  BABYLON. 


[Ohap.  xm. 


During  the  evening,  the  different  Sheikhs  assembled  in  my  tont  to  plan 
a  ghazou,  or  plundering  expedition,  for  ihe  following  day,  against  the  Agay- 
dat,  encamped  at  Abou  Psera  (Garchcmish).  Suttum  was  much  cast  down 
at  not  beinp  able  to  join  them,  and  mourned  over  his  life  of  inactivity.  I 
urged  him  to  go,  but  he  vowed  that,  as  long  as  we  were  under  his  protec- 
tion, he  would  not  leave  us.  I  should  have  taken  this  opportunity  to  visit 
tlic  Khabour  to  its  mouth,  but  did  not  wish  to  appear  to  mix  myself  up 
with  the  broils  oi'the  tribes* 

On  the  fidlnwing  morning,  Mohammed  Emin,  with  two  of  his  sons,  the 
horsemen  of  the  tribe,  and  the  Sbeikhs  who  were  his  guests,  started  on 
their  gliazcni.  They  were  all  moimted  on  mares,  except  the  Jaya  chief 
and  one  of  Mohammed  Emiu's  sons,  who  lodo  a  beautiful  white  horse  of 
the  Khalawi  raw.  1  accompanied  them  as  far  as  a  large  ruin  called 
Shcmshaui.    Sultuin  came  witb  us  carrying  his  hawk,  Hattab,  on  his  wrist. 

The  plain,  like  alt  the  country  watered  by  the  Khabour,  was  one  vast 
meadow  teeming  with  flowers.  Game  abounded,  and  the  falcon  sooa  flew 
towards  a  bustard,  which  his  piercing  eye  had  seen  lurking  in  the  long 
grass.  The  sun  was  high  in  the  heavens,  already  soaring  in  the  sky  was 
the  enemy  of  the  trained  hawk,  the  "  agab,"  a  kind  of  kite  or  eagle,  whose 
name,  signifying  "butcher,"  denotes  his  bloody  propensities.!  Although 
far  beyond  our  ken,  he  soon  saw  Hattab,  and  darted  upon  him  ia  one 
swoop.  The  affrighted  falcon  immediately  turned  from  his  quarry,  and 
with  shrill  cries  of  distress  flew  towanls  us.  After  circling  round,  unable 
from  fear  to  alight,  he  turned  towards  the  Desert,  still  followed  by  hia  re- 
lentless enemy.  In  vain  his  master,  following  as  long  as  his  mare  could 
carry  him,  waved  the  lure,  and  called  the  hawk  by  his  name  ;  he  saw  him 
no  more.  Whether  the  noble  bird  escaped,  or  fisU  a  victim  to  the  "butch- 
er," we  never  knew.  '< 

Suttum  was  inconsolable  at  his  loss,  tie  wept  when  he  returned  with- 
out his  falcon  on  his  wrist,  and  for  days  he  would  suddenly  exclaim,  "  0 
Bej  1  Billah  !  Hattab  was  not  a  bird,  he  w«S  my  brother."  He  was  one 
of  the  best  trained  hawks  I  ever  saw  amongst  the  Bedouins,  and  was  of 
some  substantial  value  to  his  owner,  as  he  would  daily  catch  six  or  seven 
bustards,  except  during  the  hottest  part  of  summer,  when  the  falcon  is  un- 
able to  hunt. 

About  a  mile  aud  a  half  below  Ledjmiyat,  but  on  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  river,  was  another  large  mound  called  Fedphami.  Wc  reached  Shem- 
shani  in  an  hour  and  three  quarters.  It  ia  a  considerable  ruin  on  the  Kha- 
bour, and  consists  of  one  lofty  mound,  surrounded  on  the  Desert  side  by 
smaller  mounds  and  heaps  of  rubbish.     It  abounds  in  fragments  of  glazed 

•  The  conftuenre  of  the  Euphrates  and  Khabour  is,  nccatdjiig  to  .Arab  reckoning, 
one  day's  journey  from  Ledjmjyat,  and  twu  short  from  Arban.  Arban  is  two  long 
days  from  Nisibin,  throe  from  Orfa,  and  fitur  from  Sevcrek. 

t  Easterns  never  hawk,  if  they  can  avoid  it,  when  the  sun  is  high,  as  the  bird  of 
prey  described  in  the  text  then  appears  in  search  of  food. 


CaAP.  xni,] 


detahtuhe  uf  tus  jEDouns. 


266 


uid  plain  pottery,  bricks,  and  black  basaltic  stone,  but  I  could  find  no 
traces  of  ciculpture  or  iiucriplion.  The  retnaiiu  of  walls  protrude  in  many 
places  from  the  soil.  Above  the  ancient  ruins  once  stood  a  castle,  the 
foundatious  uf  which  may  still  be  seen. 

The  Arabs  have  nnauy  traditions  attaching  to  these  ruins.  Amongst 
<  others,  that  they  are  tho  remains  of  the  capital  of  an  inlidel  king,  whose 
daughter,  at  the  time  of  the  first  Mussulman  invasion,  eloped  with  a  true 
believer.  The  lovers  wore  pursued  by  the  father,  overtaken,  and  killed  (the 
lady  having:,  of  course,  first  embraced  Islamism),  in  a  narrow  valley  uf  the 
neighb<juring  hills.  A  flickering  tlanio,  still  distinctly  seen  to  rise  from 
the  earth  on  Friday  nights,  marks  tho  spot  of  their  martyrdom.  The  city 
soon  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Mussulmans,  wno  took  a  signal  revenge  upon 
its  idolatiuus  inhabitants. 

The  Jebours  some  years  ago  cultivated  the  tands  around  Shenrshani,  and 
there  are  still  many  traces  of  watercourses,  and  of  the  square  plots  set  apart 
for  rice.* 

Leaving  Mohammed  Emin  to  continue  his  journey  we  returned  to  our 

(  tents.      On  our  road  we  rnet  Mnghamis,  and  a  large  party  of  Bedouins  on 

I  their  way  to  join  the  Jebour  horsemen,  for  they  also  had  been  invited  to  take 

part  in  the  attack  on  the  Agaydat,  and  to  share  in  the  spoil.     They  rode 

their  swift  dromedaries,  two  men  on  each,  the  redijf  leading  tho  raaro  of 

bis  companion  ;  that  of  the  Sheikh  was  of  the  Obeyan  race,  and  far  famed 

in  the  Desert.     8hc  was  without  saddle  or  clothes,  and  we  could  admire 

I  the  exquisite  symmetry  and  beauty  of  her  form. 

We  dismounted,  embraced,  and  exchanged  a  few  words.  The  Bedouins 
then  continued  their  rapid  course  over  the  Desert.  We  passed  other  riders 
on  delouls  and  mares,  hastening^D^oin  the  main  body,  or  to  meet  their 
friends  at  the  rendezvous  for  the  mthi  near  Abou  Fsera.     The  attack  on 

a.  the  following  morning,  the  true  Be- 
hij  enemy  in  the  dark. 

wn  by  the  Jebours  striking 
t  had  disappeared,  and  we 
towards  Arban,  fearing  lest 


the  tents  was  to  be  made  at  daw 
douin  never  taking  an  un&ir 

Ajiril  \Ath.  We  were  awo! 
their  tents.  By  sunrise  tho  whole 
were  left  almost  alone.  They  were 
the  Agaydat,  assisted  by  the  Aneyza.  migRt  seek  a  speedy  revenge  after  tho 
attack  upon  them.  Wo  breakfasted,  and  then  soon  overlook  the  line  of 
march.  For  two  hours  we  amused  ourselves  by  riding  through  the  dense 
and  busy  throng.  I  have  already  described  the  singtilar  spectacte  of  a  great 
Arab  tribe  changing  its  pastures, — its  mingled  crowd  of  women  and  girls, 
some  with  burdens,  others  without,  of  warriors  on  high-bred  mares  and  on 
fleet  camels,  of  shepherds  with  their  knotted  clubs,  of  sheep,  goafs,  camels, 
beuts  of  burden,  children,  lambs,  and  all  the  various  appendages  of  Arab 
1  life.     A  more  stirring  and  joyous  scene  can  scarcely  be  imagined. 

*  Between  SthPinshatii  and  the  niimlli  of  tliR  Khabour,  according  to  Mohammed 
Emin.  are  the  following  mounds :  £lMurgadeli(atK)ut  live  inilca  distant),  £t  Hussaln, 
Sheikh  Ahmed,  Suor,  and  El  Efdaya. 


A 


soft 


MINEVEB  AND  BABYLON. 


[CHiir.  XIII 


The  family  of  the  chief,  as  ia  usual,  moved  in  front  of  the  tribe.  We 
leil  them  pitching  their  tents  near  the  mound  of  Shedadi,  and  rode  to  our 
own  encampment  at  Arban. 

On  the  IGlh  of  April,  Mohammed  Emin  and  his  sons  returned  from  their 
expedition,  driving  before  them  their  gpoil  of  cows,  oxen,  and  marvs.  The 
Agaydat  were  taken  by  Burprise,  and  made  but  a  feeble  defence ;  there  was, 
consequently,  little  bloodshed,  as  ia  usually  the  case  when  Arab»  go  on  the<e 
forays.  The  tiue  horse  of  the  Jays  chief  had  received  a  bad  gunshot  wound, 
and  this  wa£  the  only  casually  amongst  my  friends.  Mohammed  Emin 
brought  nie  one  or  two  of  the  captured  mares  as  an  offering.  They  were, 
of  course,  returned,  but  thjv  involved  the  present  of  silk  dresses  to  the 
Sheikh  and  his  sons.  '     ^ 

April  ISfh.  To-day  we  visited  the  tents  of  Moghamis  and  his  tribe; 
they  were  pitched  about  five  miles  from  the  rix'er.  The  face  of  the  Desert 
was  as  burnished  gold.  Its  last  change  was  to  flowers  of  the  brightest  yel- 
low hue,*  and  the  whole  plain  was  dressed  with  them.  Suttum  rioted  in 
tlte  lu.\uriant  herbage  and  scented  air.  I  never  saw  him  so  exhilarated. 
"What  Kef  (delight),"  he  continually  exclaimed,  as  his  mare  waded  through 
the  flowers,  "  has  God  given  ua  equal  to  this  ?  It  is  the  only  thing  worth 
living  for.  Ya  Bej  I  what  do  the  dwellers  in  cities  know  of  true  happineaa, 
they  have  never  seen  grass  or  flowers  ?     May  God  have  piiy  on  them !" 

The  tents  were  scattered  far  and  wide  over  the  plain.  The  mares  re- 
cently returned  from  the  foray  wandered  loose  in  the  midst  of  them,  crop- 
ping the  rich  grass.  W^e  were  most  hospitably  received  by  Mophamis. 
Such  luxuries,  in  the  way  of  a  ragged  carpet  and  an  old  coverlet,  as  his  tent 
could  afl'ord,  had  been  spread  for  Mrs.  R.,  whose  reputation  had  «xteudcd 
far  and  wide  amongst  the  Arabs,  apd  T^^was  looked  upon  as  a  wonder,  bill 
always  treated  with  the  greatest  consHralion  and  respect.  The  wild  Be- 
douin would  bring  a  present  of  cameKs  milk  or  truffles,  and  the  boys  caught 
jerboas  and  other  smntl  nmruiis  |i)r  tltc  Vi^^  l.nly.  During  the  whole  of 
our  journey  she  was  nover  excused  to  aoiMyance,  although  wearing,  with 
the  exception  of  the  Tarbousb,  ot  au  Arab  cloak,  the  European  dress. 

Moghamis  clad  himself  in  a  coat  '  '  i  mail,  of  ordinary  materials  and 
rude  workmanship,  but  still  strouL  lo  resist  the  coarse  iron  spear- 

heads of  the  Arab  lance,  though  certamly  no  protection  against  a  woll-lcm- 
percd  blade.  The  Arabs  wear  their  armour  beneath  the  shirt,  because  an 
enemy  would  otherwise  strike  at  the  mare  and  not  at  her  rider.t 

After  we  had  enjoyed  all  the  luxuries  of  an  Arab  feast,  visited  the  wom- 
en's compartments,  where  most  of  the  ladies  of  the  tribe  had  assembled  lo 


*  I  have  already  mentioned  the  changes  in  the  colors  of  the  Desert.  Almost  in  as 
many  dnya  wliite  tiad  succeeded  lo  pale  straw  color,  red  to  white,  blue  lo  red,  hlacto 
blue,  and  now  ihe  face  of  the  country  was  as  described  in  lUe  lext. 

^  One  of  the  principal  (iliject.-*  of  Bedouins  in  battle  being  to  carry  off  their  ndv«- 
saries'  mares,  they  never  wound  them  if  they  can  avoid  it,  but  endeavour  to  kdl  or 
unhorse  the  riders. 


Kur'lii&ti  vV  ointrn 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


I.UAVI    ARBAN. THR    BANHIl    Or    TIIK   KHABOCB. ARTIFICUt.    MODKnS. MUWEL,!.. Tfek 

CAnl  or  THE  BEDOUINS. THE  TIUR  OR  OLOOD-REVENOg. CAPTION  OP  ARAB8. A  1»A^ 

»RAl,     CAVERM. AN    EXTINCT     TOLCANO. TJIB    CONrLCENTB    OF    THE      RIIADOPR. — Bl- 

DOtriN   XtKKS. DULKIMAN  AOHA. — KNCAUPMENT  AT  UM-iBRJEII. THE  TURKISH   IBRIA- 

ULAR    CAVAUBV.  —  NOl'ND    OF    MIJIIKL. KiriNS    ON    THE    KHABOUB. HOHAMMKO   KMIII 

LEAVES    US. VISIT  TO  KVRmOH  TKWT8  ANU   IIABEH. — THE  MILLI  KURDS. THE  PAHILT 

OP   BISUWAN. ARAB    t.OVR-UAltlNG. THE    DAKKEEL. BEDOUIN    POETS  AND  POCTRT. — 

TURKISH   CAVALRY    HORltKB. 

The  hot  weather  was  rapidly  drawing  near.  Enough  had  not  beea  dis- 
covered in  the  mound  of  Arban,  nor  were  thcro  ruins  of  sufficietit  import- 
ance near  the  river,  to  induce  me  to  remam  much  longer  on  the  Khabour. 
1  wished,  however,  to  explore  the  stream,  as  Tar  as  T  was  able,  towards  ita 
principal  source,  and  to  visit  Suleiman  Agha,  the  Turkish  commander,  who 
was  now  encamped  on  its  banks.  In  answer  to  a  letter,  he  urged  me  to 
rome  to  his  tentii,  and  to  bring  the  Sheikh  of  the  Jebours  with  mo,  pledg- 
ing himself  to  place  no  restraint  whatever  on  the  [x'rfeet  liberty  of  the 
Arab  ch'ini^  With  such  a  guarantee,  I  ventured  to  invite  Mohammed  Eoiin 
to  accompany  mo.  After  much  hesitation,  arising  from  a  very  natural  fear 
of  treachery,  he  consented  to  do  so. 

On  the  1  'Jth  of  April  we  crossed  the  Khabour,  and  encamped  for  the  night 
on  its  Boutheru  bank.  On  the  following  rtiorniiig  ■we  turned  from  the  ruini 
of  Arban,  and  coranienced  our  journey  to  the  eastward.  The  Jeboura  were 
now  dwelling  higher  up  the  stream,  and  Mohammed  Emin,  with  his  two 
sons,  and  Abdullah  his  nephew,  met  us  on  our  way.  He  \^aB  still  in  doubt 
as  to  whether  he  should  go  with  me  or  not ;  but  at  last,  after  moru  than 


Chap.  XIV.] 


SDTTUM'S  RETURN  TO  HIS  TENTS. 


269 


once  taming  back,  he  took  a  desperate  resolution,  and  pushed  his  mare 
boldly  forward.  His  children  commended  him,  with  tears,  to  my  protec- 
tion, and  then  left  our  caravan  for  their  tents. 

We  rode  from  bend  to  bend  of  the  river,  without  following  its  tortuous 
course.     Its  banks  are  belted  with  {Ktplars,  tamarisks,  and  brushwood,  the 
retreat  of  wild  boars,  francolins,  and  other  game,  and  studded  with  artifi- 
cial mounds,  the  remains  of  ancient  sotttcments.    This  deserted  though  rich 
.and  fertili:  district  must,  at  one  time,  have  been  the  scat  of  a  dense  pupu- 
Nation.    It  is  only  under  such  a  government  as  that  of  Turkey  that  it  could 
iremain  a  wilderness.     The  first  large  ruin  above  Arban.  and  some  miles 
|froin  it  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  is  called  Jfjehnak.    According  to  a  tra- 
dition jireserved  by  the  Jebours,  the  Per|iau8  were  defeated  near  it,  with 
great  slaughter,  in  the  early  days  of  Islam,  by  the  celebrated  Arab  tribe  of 
the  ZobciJe.     About  one  mile  and  a  half  beyond  is  another  ruin  called 
Abou  Shalah,  and  three  miles  further  up  the  stream  a  third,  called  Taaban, 
upon  which  are  the  remains  of  a  modern  fort.     Near  Taaban,  Mohammed 
Emin  had  recently  built  a  small  enclosure  of  nide  stone  walls,  a  place  of 
refuge  in  case  of  an  attack  from  the  Ancyza  Bedouins.     Around  it  the  Je- 
booTB  sow  com  and  barley,  re-opening  the  ancient  water-courses  to  bring 
water  to  their  fields.     The  wheat  was  almost  ready  for  the  sickle  even  at 
this  early  season  of  the  year. 

After  a  short  day's  journey  of  four  hours  and  a  half  we  raised  our  tents 
for  the  night  amongst  luxuriant  herbage,  which  afl'orded  abundant  pasture 
for  our  horses  and  camels.  The  spot  was  called  Nahab.  The  river,  divided 
into  two  branches  by  a  string  of  small  wooded  islands,  is  fordable  except 
during  the  freshes.  Near  our  encampment  was  a  largo  mound  named 
Hehlaibiyah,  and  in  the  stream  I  obser^-ed  fragments  of  stone  masonr}', 
probably  the  remains  of  ancient  dams  tor  irrigation. 

Ne.xt  morning  Sultum  returned  to  his  tents  with  Rathaiyah,  leaving  us 
under  the  care  of  his  younger  brother  Mijwcll,  After  I  had  visited  the 
Turkish  commander,  whom  he  did  not  appear  over  anxious  to  meet,  he  was 
to  join  iifl  in  the  Desert,  and  accompany  inc  to  Mosul.  Mijwell  was  even 
of  a  more  amiable  disposition  than  his  brother;  was  less  given  to  diplomacy, 
and  troubled  himself  little  with  the  {^mlitics  of  the  tribes.  A  pleasant  smile 
lighted  up  his  features,  and  a  fund  of  quaint  and  original  humor  made  him 
at  all  times  an  agreeable  companion.  Although  he  could  neither  read  nor 
write,  he  was  one  of  the  cadis  or  judges  of  the  Shamraar,  an  office  hered- 
itary in  the  family  of  the  Saadi,  at  the  head  of  which  is  Rishwan.  The 
old  man  had  delegated  the  dignity  to  his  younger  son,  who,  by  the  consent 
of  his  brothers,  will  enjoy  it  after  their  father's  death.  Disputes  ofall  kinds 
are  referred  to  these  recognised  judges.  Their  decrees  are  obeyed  with  read- 
ineu,  and  the  other  members  of  the  tribe  are  rarely  called  upon  to  enforce 
them.  They  administer  rude  justice ;  and,  although  pretending  to  follow 
the  words  of  the  Prophet,  are  rather  guided  by  ancient  custom  than  by  the 
I'  law  of  the  Koran,  which  binds  the  rest  of  the  Mohammedan  world.     The' 


260 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


(Chap.  XIV. 


moat  common  lource  of  Uligalion  i<,  of  course,  atolea  property.     They  »• 
ceivo  for  their  decrees,  payment  in  money  or  in  kind ;  and  he  who  gains  the 
(uit  has  to  pay  the  fee.     Amongst  the  Shammar,  if  the  dispute  relates  toj 
a  deloul,  the  cadi  gels  two  gazecs,  about  eight  shiUings;  if  to  a  marc,  a 
deloul;  if  to  a  man.  a  mare.*     Various  ordeals,  such  as  licking  a  red-hot] 
iron,  are  in  use,  to  prove  a  man's  innocence.     Kthe  accused's  tongue  ifj 
burnt,  no  doubt  exists  as  to  his  guilt. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  laws  iu  force  amongst  the  wandering  Arabs, 
and  one  probably  of  the  highest  antiquity,  is  the  law  of  blood,  called  the  ' 
Thar,  prescribing  the  degrees  of  consanguinity  within  which  it  is  lawful  to. 
revenge  a  homicide.     Although  a  law,  rendering  a  muu  responsible  foiJ 
blood  shed  by  any  one  related  to  him  within  the  fifth  degree,  may  appear! 
to  members  of  a  civtliscd  community  one  of  extraordinary  rigour,  and  io^j 
volving  almost  manifest  injustice,  it  must  nevertheless  be  admitted,  that! 
no  power  vested  in  any  one  individual,  and  no  punishment,  however  severe,  J 
oould  tend  more  to  the  maintenaiiec  oforder  and  the  prevention  of  blood« 
shed  amongst  the  wild  tribes  of  the  Desert.     As  Burekhardt  has  justly  re- 
marked, "  this  salutary  institution  has  contributed  in  a  greater  degree  than 
any  other  circumstance,  to  prevent  the  warlike  tribes  of  Arabia  from  ex- 
terminating one  another." 

If  a  man  commit  a  homicide,  the  cadi  endeavours  to  prevail  upon  the 
family  of  Ihe  victim  to  accept  a  compensation  for  the  blood  in  money  or  in 
kind,  the  amount  being  regulated  according  to  custom  in  difl'crent  tribes. 
Should  the  oU'er  of  "  blood-money"  be  refused,  the  "  Thar"  comes  into  oper- 
ation, and  any  person  within  the  "  kmimsc,"  or  the  tifth  degree  of  blood  of 
the  homicide,  may  be  legally  killed  by  any  one  within  the  same  degree  of 
consanguinity  to  the  victimt 

This  law  is  cnforned  between  tribes  remote  from  one  another,  as  well  as 
between  families,  and  to  the  blood-revenge  may  be  attributed  many  of  the 
bitter  feuds  which  exist  amongst  the  Arab  clans.  It  adccts,  in  many  re- 
spects, their  social  condition,  and  has  a  marked  iitfluenco  upon  their  habits, 
and  even  upon  their  manners.  Thus  an  Arab  will  never  tell  his  name,  es- 
pecially if  it  bo  an  uncommon  one,  to  a  stranger,  nor  mention  that  of  his 

•  Burckhardl  gives  a  somewhat  different  table  or  fees  as  exisling  amongst  iheBo- 
douin  tnb€s  with  which  he  waa  acquainted.  His  whole  account  of  Arab  law  ia  sin- 
gularly ttiU'resiitig  and  corri>ct ;  there  is,  iodced,  very  little  to  be  added  to  it.  (See 
hia  Notes  on  lUe  Bedouins,  p.  6fi.) 

i  Burekhardl  haa  thus  defined  the  terms  of  this  law :  "  The  Thar  rests  with  the 
khonise,  or  fiflli  genvralion,  those  only  having  a  nght  lo  revenge  a  slain  parent, 
whose  fourth  lineal  ascendant  is,  at  the  snme  cime,  titc  fourth  lineal  ascendant  of  tlif 
peraon  slain ;  and,  on  the  otliiT  :«id(.>,  only  those  male  kindred  of  the  liomicidc  are 
liable  to  pay  with  their  own  for  ihc  LIcmkI  shed,  whose  fourth  lineal  ascendant  is  at 
the  same  time  the  fourih  lineal  ascendant  of  the  homicide.  TJic  present  generation 
IS  thus  comprised  within  Uie  number  of  the  kUtomsc  The  lineal  descendants  of  all 
•  those  who  are  entitled  to  revenge  at  the  moment  of  the  manslaughter  inherit  Ihf 
right  from  their  parents.  The  right  to  blood-revenge  ia  never  lost ;  it  descends  oo 
both  sides  to  the  latest  generation."    (Notes  on  Arabs,  p.  85.) 


m 


Chap.  XIV.]  *  natural  cavbrn.  261 

father  or  of  his  tribe,  if  his  own  name  be  ascertained,  lest  there  sbould  be 
Thar  between  them.  Even  children  arc  taught  to  obserrc  this  custom, 
that  they  may  not  fall  victims  to  the  blood  revenge.  Hence  the  extreme 
suspicion  with  which  a  Bedouin  regards  a  stranger  in  the  open  country,  or 
in  a  tent,  and  his  caution  in  disclosing  anything  relating  to  the  movements, 
or  dwelling-place,  of  his  friends.  In  most  encampments  are  found  refugees, 
sometimes  whole  families,  who  have  left  their  tribe  on  account  of  a  hom- 
icide for  which  they  are  amenable.  In  case,  after  a  murder,  persons  with- 
in the  "  Thar"  take  to  flight,  three  days  and  four  hours  are  by  immemorial 
eostora  allowed  to  the  fugitives  before  they  can  bo  pursued.  Frequently 
they  never  return  to  their  friends,  but  remain  with  those  who  give  them 
protection,  and  become  incorporated  into  the  tribe  by  which  they  are  adopt- 
ed. Thus  there  are  families  of  the  Harb,  Ancyza,  Dhofyr,  and  other  great 
elans,  who  for  this  cause  have  joined  the  Shamrnar,  and  are  now  considered 
part  of  them.  Frequently  the  homicide  himself  will  wander  from  tent  to  tent 
over  the  Desert,  or  even  rove  through  the  towns  and  villages  on  its  borders. 
with  a  chain  round  his  neck  and  in  rags,  begging  contributions  from  the 
charitable  to  enable  him  to  pay  the  apportioned  blood-money.  I  have  fre- 
quently met  luch  unfortunate  persons  who  have  spent  years  in  collecting 
a  small  sum.  I  will  not  weary  the  reader  with  an  account  of  the  various 
rules  observed  in  carrying  out  this  law,  where  persons  are  killed  in  private 
disiensions,  or  slain  in  the  act  of  stealing,  in  war,  or  in  the  ghazou.  In 
each  case  the  cadi  determines,  aeooiding  to  the  ancient  custom  of  the  tribe, 
IIm  proper  compensation.  ^ 

Mijwell  now  took  Suttum's  place  in  the  caravan,  and  directed  the  order 
of  ODi  march.  Four  miles  from  Nahab  we  passed  a  largo  mound  called 
Thenenir,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  a  spring  much  venerated  by  the  Arabs. 
Aronnd  it  the  Jcbours  had  sown  a  little  wheat.  Near  this  ruin  an  an- 
cient stone  dam  divides  the  Khabour  into  several  branches :  it  is  called 
the  "  Saba  Sekour"  or  the  seven  rocks. 

Leaving  the  caravan  to  pursue  the  direct  road,  I  struck  across  the  coun- 
try to  the  hill  of  Koukab,  accompanied  by  Mohammed  Emin  and  Mijwell. 
This  remarkable  oone,  rising  in  the  midst  of  the  plain,  had  been  visible 
from  our  furthest  point  on  the  Khabour.  Some  of  the  Arabs  declared  it 
to  be  an  artificial  mound  ;  others  said,  that  it  was  a  mountain  of  stones. 
Mohammed  Emin  would  tell  mc  nf  a  subterranean  lake  beneath  it,  in  a 
cavern  large  enough  to  afford  refuge  to  any  number  of  men.  As  we  drew 
nearer,  the  plain  was  covered  with  angular  fragments  of  black  basalt,  and 
crossed  by  veins,  or  dykes,  of  the  same  volcanic  rock.  Mohammed  Emin 
led  us  first  to  the  mouth  of  a  cave  in  a  rocky  ravine  not  far  from  the  foot 
of  the  hill.  It  was  so  choked  with  stones  that  we  could  scarcely  squeeze 
ourselves  through  the  opening,  but  it  became  wider,  and  led  to  a  descend- 
ing passage,  the  bottom  of  which  was  lost  in  the  gloom.  We  advanced 
cautiously,  but  not  without  setting  in  motion  an  avalanche  of  loose  stones, 
which,  increasing  as  it  rolled  onwards,  by  its  loud  noise  disturbed  swarms 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XTT. 


of  h&U  that  hung  to  the  sides  and  celling  of  the  cavern.  Flying  towardi 
the  light,  these  noisome  beasts  almost  compelled  us  to  retreat.  They 
clung  to  our  clothes,  and  our  bands  could  scarcely  prevent  them  eetthng  \ 
on  our  faces.  The  rustling  of  their  wings  was  like  the  noise  of  a  great ^ 
wind,  and  an  abominable  stench  arose  from  the  recesses  of  the  cave.  At 
length  they  settled  again  to  their  daily  sleep,  and  we  were  able  to  go  for 
ward. 

After  descending  some  fifty  feet,  we  foiitiJ  ourselves  on  the  margin  of  • 
lake  of  fresh  water.  The  pitchy  darkness  prevented  our  ascertaining  its 
■ize,  which  could  not  have  been  verj'  great,  although  the  Arabs  declared 
that  no  one  could  reach  the  op|X)site  side.  The  cave  is  frequently  a  place' 
of  refuge  for  the  wandering  Arabs,  and  the  Bedouins  encamp  near  it  in 
summer  to  drink  tlie  cool  water  of  this  natural  reservoir.  Mohammed 
Emiu  told  me  that  last  year  he  had  found  a  hou  iu  it,  who,  on  being  dis- 
turbed, merely  rushed  out  and  fied  across  the  plain. 

Leaving  the  cavern  and  issuing  froiii  the  ravine,  we  came  to  the  edgo^ 
of  a  wide  crater,  iu  the  centre  of  which  rose  the  remarkable  cone  of  Kou>  i 
kab,     To  the  left  of  us  was  a  second  crater,  whose  lips  were  formed  by  ihft ' 
jaggy  edges  of  basaltic  rooks,  and  in  the  plain  around  were  several  others' 
smaller  in  size.     They  were  all  evidently  the  remains  of  an  extinct  volca- 
no, which  had  been  active  within  a  comparatively  recent  geological  period, 
even  p<.<rhaps  within  the  time  of  history,  or  tradition,  as  the  namo  of  the 
mound  amongst  the  Arabs  denotes  a  jet  of  fire  or  flame,  as  well  as  a  coik- 
itollation. 

I  ascended  the  cone,  which  is  about  300  feet  high,  and  composed  en- 
tirely of  loose  lava,  scoria,  and  ashes,  thus  resembling  precisely  the  cone 
riling  in  the  craters  of  Vesuvius  and  i^tna.  It  is  steep  and  difHcult  of 
aioent,  except  on  one  side,  where  the  summit  is  easily  reached  evea  by 
horwB.  Within,  fur  it  is  hollow,  it  resembles  an  enormous  funnel,  broken 
away  at  one  edge,  as  ifa  molten  stream  had  burst  through  it,  Anemonies 
and  |>oppies,  of  the  brightest  scarlet  hue,  covered  its  side  ;  although  the  dry 
lava  and  loose  ashes  scarcely  seemed  to  have  collected  sufliciont  soil  to 
nourish  llieir  roots.  It  would  be  difficult  to  describe  tlie  richness  and  brill- 
iancy uf  tliis  mass  of  flowers,  the  cone  from  a  distance  having  the  apiwar- 
anco  of  a  huge  inverted  cij[i  of  biiruiahed  copper,  over  which  poured 
•trcams  of  blood. 

From  the  summit  of  Koukab  I  gnzoJ  upon  a  scene  as  varied  aa  extea* 
•ivo.  Boneath  me  the  two  priiiripul  hiauchesof  the  Khabour  united  their 
Waters,  I  could  track  thi-iii  I'ur  many  miles  by  the  dark  hue  of  their 
wooded  banks,  as  they  wound  thruiigh  the  golden  plains.  To  the  left,  ot 
the  west,  was  the  true  Khabour,  the  Chaboras  of  the  ancients  ;  a  name  it 
I  boars  from  its  source  at  Ras-al-ain  (i.  e.  the  head  of  the  spring).*     The 

♦  Oni.i  iif  Ihis  sources  of  this  brancli  of  lliu  Khalxiur  is,  I  am  lold,  in  the  Kharej 
CacU,  to  tlii^  west  of  Mardin.    This  small  stream,  called  Ajjurgub,  talis  into  the  river 
I  near  ttoa-ul-Ain. 


Chap.  XIV.J 

second  stream,  that  to  the  e&st,  is  called  by  the  Arabs  the  Jenijer  (a  name, 
as  uttvrcd  by  the  Bcdouiiis,  equally  difficult  to  pronounce  and  to  write). 
and  is  the  ancient  Mygdonius,  (lowing  through  Nisibin.*  Khalouniyah 
and  its  lake  were  just  visible,  backed  by  the  sohtory  hiil  of  the  Siiijar. 
The  Kurdish  mountains  bounded  the  view  to  the  east.  In  the  plain,  and 
on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  loao  many  artiticial  mounds  ;  whilst,  in  the  ex- 
treme distance  to  the  north  could  be  distinguished  the  Hocks  and  black 
tents  of  a  large  wandering  tribe.  They  were  those  of  the  Chichi  and 
Milli  Kurds,  encamped  with  the  Turkish  commander  Suleiman  Agha. 

Ou  some  fragments  of  baEaltic  rock  projecting  from  the  summit  of  the 
cone,  were  numerous  rudely-cut  signs,  which  might  have  been  taken  for 
ancient  and  unknown  characters.  They  were  the  devices  of  the  Sham- 
mar,  carved  there  on  the  visit  of  diflerent  Sheikhs.  Each  tribe,  and,  in- 
deed, each  subdivision  and  family,  has  its  peculiar  mark  to  be  placed  upon 
their  property  and  burnt  upon  their  camels.  MijwcLl  identitied  the  signs; 
that  of  his  own  family,  the  Saadi,  being  amongst  them.  In  little  recesses, 
carefully  sheltered  by  heaped-up  stones,  were  hung  miuialure  cradles,  like 
those  commonly  suspended  to  the  poles  of  a  Bedouin  tent.  They  had  been 
placed  there  as  exvotos  by  Shammar  women  who  wished  to  be  mothers. 

After  I  had  examined  the  sccoud  large  crater, — a  deej)  hollow,  surround- 
ed by  basaltic  rocks,  but  without  a  projecting  cone  of  lava, — we  rode  to- 
wards the  Jerujer,  on  whose  banks  the  caravan  was  to  await  us.  The 
plain  was  still  covered  with  innumerable  fragments  of  basalt  embedded  in 
■earlet  poppies.  We  found  our  companions  near  the  junction  of  the  riv- 
en, where  a  raft  had  been  construeted  to  enable  us  to  cross  the  smaller 
•trenm.  I  had  sent  the  Bairakdar  two  days  before  to  apprise  Suleiman 
Agha  of  my  intended  visit,  and  to  learn  how  far  I  could  with  safety  take 
Mohammed  Erain  with  rnc  to  the  Turkish  camp.  He  had  returned,  and 
was  waiting  for  me.  The  Agha  had  given  a  satisfactory  guarantee  for  the 
Sheikh's  safety,  and  had  sent  an  otlicer,  with  a  party  of  irregular  troops,  to 
receive  me. 

We  had  scarcely  crossed  the  river  before  a  large  body  of  horsemen  wore 
•een  approaching  us.  As  they  drew  nigh  I  recognised  in  the  Turkish  cora- 
inander  an  old  friend,  "  the  Topal,"  or  lame,  Suleiman  Agha,  as  he  was 
generally  called  in  the  country.  He  had  been  Kiayah  or  lieutenant-gov- 
ernor, to  the  celebrated  InjL-h  Bairakdar  Muhammed  Pasha,  and,  like  his 
former  master,  possessed  considerable  intelligence,  energy,  and  activity 
From  his  long  connection  with  the  tribes  of  the  Desert,  his  knowledge  of 
their  manners,  and  his  skill  in  detecting  and  devising  treacheries  and  strat- 

•  The  name  of  Hawaii,  by  which  this  branch  of  the  Kbabour  appears  to  have  been 
called  by  the  .\rab  geographers,  and  whiuli  is  retained  in  our  maps,  appears  tu  be  de- 
rived from  the  "  Hoi,"  which  will  be  flcBi-rihed  hereafltT  The  course  of  the  stream 
is  also  erroneously  laid  down  in  all  the  niaiw  ;  and,  what  is  more  curious,  is  as 
wrongly  described  by  the  Arab  writers,  some  of  whom  place  a  branch  of  it  lo  the 
sonth-east  of  the  Sinjar,  confounding  it  apparently  with  the  Thalhar. 


MNEVKH  AND  BADTLON. 


[Chap.  XTV. 


igami,  he  was  generally  chosea  to  lead  expeditions  against  the  Arabs. 
Uo  was  now,  as  I  have  stated,  endeavoring  to  recover  the  govemment 
Uvasure  plundered  by  the  Hamoiid  Bedouins. 

He  was  surrounded  by  Hyta-Bashis,  or  commanders  of  irregular  cavalry, 
flittering  with  gold  and  silver-mounted  arms,  and  rich  in  embroidered  jack- 
ets, and  silken  robes,  by  Aglias  of  tlie  Chichi  and  Milli  Kurds,  and  by  sev- 
oral  Arab  chiefs.  About  five  hundred  horsemen,  preceded  by  their  small 
kottie-dntms,  crowded  bebind  him.  His  tents  were  about  six  miles  distant ; 
and,  afler  exchanging  the  usual  salutations,  we  turned  towards  them. 
Many  fair  speeches  could  scarcely  calm  the  fears  of  the  timid  Jobour 
Shaikh.  MijwcU,  on  the  other  hand,  rode  boldly  a!ong,  casting  contempt- 
uous glances  at  the  irregular  cavalry,  as  they  galloped  to  and  fro  in  mimio 
eombat. 

Tho  delta,  formed  by  the  two  streams,  was  covered  with  tents.  Wa 
w«ndcd  our  way  through  crowds  of  sheep,  horses,  cattle,  and  camels.  Th« 
I'hichi  and  Milli  Kurds,  who  encamp  during  the  spring  at  the  foot  of  tho 
mountains  of  Mardiu,  had  now  sought,  under  the  protection  of  the  Turkish 
ioUliery,  tho  rich  pastures  of  tho  Khabour,  and  many  families  of  the  Sher- 
abb«on,  Buggara,  and  Harb  Arabs  had  joined  the  encampment.* 

Suleiman  .\gha  lived  under  the  spacious  canvas  of  tho  Chichi  chief. 
Till'  tmits  of  the  Kurdish  tribes,  who  wander  in.  tho  low  country  at  tho  foot 
of  the  mountains  in  winter  and  spring,  and  seek  the  hill  pastures  in  the 
summer,  and  especially  those  of  the  principal  men,  are  remarkable  for  their 
utf,  and  tho  richness  of  their  carpets  and  furniture.  They  are  often  divi- 
dvd  into  as  many  as  four  or  five  distinct  compartments,  by  screens  of  light 
rtano  or  ri-eds,  bound  together  with  many-colored  woollen  threads,  disposed' 
in  plegant  paltcrns  and  devices.  Carpets  hung  above  these  screens  com- 
plote  diviHions.  In  that  partition  set  aside  fur  the  women  a  similar  parti- 
tion nieloHes  a  kind  of  private  room  for  the  head  of  tho  family  and  his 
wivoit.  Tlio  rest  of  the  harem  is  fdled  with  piles  of  carpels,  cushions,  do- 
mi>»tic  furuiturc,  cooking  utensils,  skins  for  making  butter,  and  all  the  ne- 
oosMriua  of  a  wandering  life.  Hero  the  handmaidens  prepare  tho  dinner 
Dtf  their  master  and  his  guests.  In  tho  tents  of  the  great  chiefs  there  is 
^§  soparute  compartment  for  the  servants,  and  one  for  the  mares  and  colts. 
I  (At  a  ulitirt  time  with  Suleiman  Agha,  drank  eoflee,  smoked,  and  list- 
«a»4l  patiently  to  a  long  discourse  on  the  benefits  of  tanziniat,  which  had 
i\  aiv  ond  to  bribes,  treachery,  and  irregular  taxation,  especially  intended 
fHohanuni'il  Umin,  who  was,  however,  by  no  means  reassured  by  it.  I 
adjouinod  tij  iny  own  tents,  which  had  been  pitched  upon  the  banks 
the  rivor  opposite  a  well-wooded  island,  and  near  a  ledge  of  rocks  form- 
I  oito  of  those  beautiful  falls  of  water  so  frequent  in  this  part  of  the  Kha- 
».     Around  us  wore  tho  pavilions  of  the  Hytas,  those  of  the  chiefs 

ItMi  HaHi  IS  a  branc<h  of  iho  gmt  tribe  of  the  same  name  inhabiting  tho  north- 
,  nan  «!'  the  Htnljat,  Which,  in  consequence  of  some  blood-feud,  migrated  manj 
\  S^  to  M«so|H>laiuiu. 


ObAP.  XIV.  J  BNCAMPMENT  AT  DM-JKIUKH.  266 

marked  by  their  scarlet  standards.  At  a  short  distance  from  the  Btream 
the  tents  of  the  Kurds  were  pitched  in  parallel  lines  forming  regular 
streets,  and  not  scattered,  like  those  of  Iho  Bedouins,  without  order  over  the 
pUin.  Between  us  and  them  were  picketed  the  horses  of  the  cavalry,  and 
aa  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  beyond,  grazed  the  innumerable  flocks  and 
herds  of  the  assembled  tribes. 

We  were  encamped  near  the  foot  of  a  large  artificial  Tel  called  Um-Jcr- 
jch  ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Khabour  were  other  mounds  of  the 
•atne  name.  My  Jebour  workmen  began  to  excavate  in  these  ruins  the 
day  after  our  arrival.  I  remained  in  my  tent  to  receive  the  visits  of  the 
Kurdish  chiefs  and  of  the  commanders  of  the  irregular  cavalry.  From 
ibeee  freebooters  I  have  derived  much  curious  and  interesting  information 
relating  to  the  various  provinces  of  the  Turkish  empire  and  their  inhabit- 
ants, mingled  with  pleasant  anecdotes  and  vivid  descriptions  of  men  and 
manners.  They  are  generally  very  intelligent,  frank,  and  hospitable.  Al- 
though too  often  unscrupulous  and  cruel,  they  unite  many  of  the  good  qual- 
ities of  the  old  Turkish  soldier  with  most  of  his  vices.  They  love  hard- 
drinking  and  gambling,  staking  their  horses,  arms,  and  even  clothes,  on  the 
most  childish  game  of  chance.  Their  pay,  at  the  same  time,  is  miserably 
small,  rarely  exceeding  a  few  sliillitigs  a  month,  and  they  arc  obliged  to 
plunder  the  peaceable  inhabitants  to  supply  tlieir  actual  wants.  The  race 
it  now  fast  disappearing  before  the  Nizam,  or  regular  troops. 

On  the  second  day.  accompanied  by  Mijwell,  I  visited  a  large  mound 
called  Mijdel,  on  the  right  bank  of  tlie  river  about  five  rniies  above  Um- 
Jerjeh.  We  rode  through  the  golden  meadows,  crossing  the  remains  of 
•ocient  canals  and  watercourses,  and  passing  the  ruins  of  former  habita- 
tions. A  Sheikh  of  the  Buggara  was  with  us,  an  intelligent  Arab,  whose 
tribe  in  times  of  quiet  encamp  at  Rns-al-Ain  near  the  sources  of  the  Kha- 
bour. The  Aneyza  were  out  on  this  side  of  the  Euphrates,  and  were 
prowling  over  the  Desert  in  search  of  plunder.  As  Suleiman  Agha  de- 
clared that,  without  an  escort  of  at  least  one  hundred  horsemen,  1  could  not 
go  to  Ras-al-Ain,  1  was  unable  to  visit  the  extensive  ruins  which  are  said 
to  exist  there. 

Ras-al-Ain  was  once  a  place  of  considerable  importance.  It  was  known 
to  the  ancients  under  the  name  of  Rasina.  Benjamin  of  Tudela  found  two 
hundred  Jews  dwelling  there  in  the  12th  century.*  The  Arabs  assured 
me  that  columns  and  sculptures  still  mark  the  site  of  the  ancient  city. 
Their  accounts  arc,  however,  probably  exaggerated. 

Mijdel  is  a  lofty  platform,  surrounded  by  groups  of  smaller  mounds, 
amongst  which  may  still  be  traced  the  lines  of  streets  and  canals.  It  i« 
about  four  or  five  miles  from  the  ridge  of  Abd-ul-Azecz.     These  low  hills, 

•  The  name  is  by  some  error  omitted  in  tbe  Hotirew  test,  but  it  is  evident,  from 
the  distance  to  Hiirran,  that  Ras-al-Ain  la  nieanl.  Aslicr  (Benjamin  of  Tudela's 
Itinerary,  note  to  passage,  vol.  ii.  ji.  128  )  points  out  tlial  it  should  be  the  xtmrct*  of 
tbe  Khabour,  not  the  mouth,  as  usually  truiislatcd. 


266 


NIMEVEB  AND  BABYLON. 


[CaAi-.  XIV. 


■cautily  wooded  with  dwarf  oak,  are  biokeu  into  jnttumerable  valleys  and 
raviui'g,  which  abound,  it  is  said,  with  wild  goats,  boars,  leopards,  and  oth- 
er animals.  Aceurding  to  my  Bcdnuiu  informants,  the  ruins  of  ancient 
townB  and  villages  still  exist,  but  they  could  only  give  mc  the  name  of  one, 
Zakkarah.  The  hills  are  crossed  ia  the  centre  by  a  road  called  Maghli- 
yah,  from  an  abundant  spring.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Khabour,  and 
running  parallel  with  the  Akl-ul-Azecz  range,  is  another  line  of  amallhiJlB, 
called  Hamnia,  in  which  their  are  many  wells.* 

The  lijhammar  Bedouins  encamp  on  the  banks  of  this  part  of  the  Kha- 
bour  during  the  hot  inoHths.  The  mound  of  Mijdol  is  a  favorite  resort  of 
the  Boraij  in  the  "  eye  of  the  summer :"  the  waters  of  the  river  are  al- 
ways cool,  and  there  is  sufficient  pasture  for  the  flocks  and  herd£  of  the 
wliule  tribe. 

An  Arab  whom  I  met  in  the  tent  of  o^e  of  the  Hyta-Bashis,  pretended 
that  he  was  well  acquainted  with  the  ruins  called  Vcrhan-Shehr ,\  of 
which  I  hud  so  frequently  heard  i'rom  the  natives  of  Mardin  and  the  Sham' 
mar.  He  described  them  as  being  on  a  hill  three  days  distant  from  oui 
encampment,  and  to  consist  of  columns,  buildings,  and  sculptured  siouet 
like  those  of  Palmyra.  The  Turkish  Government  at  one  time  wished  to 
turn  the  ancient  edifices  into  barracks,  and  to  place  a  garrison  in  the  place 
to  keep  the  Arabs  in  check. 

In  the  evening  Mohammed  Emiu  left  us.  iSuleiman  Agha  had  already 
invested  him  with  a  rube  of  honor,  and  had  prevailed  upon  him  to  join 
with  Ferhaii  in  taking  measures  for  the  recovery  of  the  plundered  treasure. 
The  scarlet  cloak  and  civil  treatment  had  conciliated  the  Jebour  chief,  aod 
when  he  parted  with  the  Turkish  commander  in  my  tent  there  waa  an  un- 
usual display  of  mutual  compliments  and  pledges  of  eternal  friendship. 
Mijwcll  looked  on  with  indignant  contempt,  swearing  between  his  teeth 
that  all  Jebours  were  but  degenerate,  ploughing  Arabs,  and  cursing  the 
whole  order  of  frmminuhs.t 

We  were  detained  at  Umjerjeh  several  days  by  the  severe  illneaa  of  Mr. 
Hormuzd  Rassam.  I  took  the  opportunity  to  visit  the  tenta  of  the  Milli. 
whose  chief,  Mousa  Agha,  had  invited  ua  to  a  feast.  On  our  way  thither 
we  passed  several  encampments  of  Chichi,  yiierrabcen,  and  Harb,  the  men 


'^  The  Buggara  chief  gave  mo  the  rollowing  nnmna  for  mounds,  in  the  order  ia 
which  they  occur,  bitwecn  Mjjdel  anil  Ras-al-Aiii.  'llir  Gla  (Kalah) nr  Tel  Komai 
a  large  mound  visible  from  Mijiiel ;  El  Mogas,  near  a  ford  and  a  plaec  called  El  Aujt; 
El  Tumr,  about  four  lioiirs  from  Umjerjeh,  at  the  junction  of  the  Zcrgan,  a  small 
stream  coining  from  Ghours,  in  the  mountains  to  thi^  west  of  Mardin  ;  El  Tawileh, 
a  larpe  mound  fourteen  or  fifteen  miles  from  jMtjdel,  and  jusl  visible ;  Om  Kuifah, 
Tal  Jahash,  ;ind  Gulinati.  On  the  river  bank  o|)|xtsitG  to  Mijdel  are  several  groujNi 
of  nicninds  called  Dihbs.  Near  Ha»-al-Aiti  is  a  mound,  whether  natural  or  artificial  I 
could  not  ascertain,  called  El  Cbibeseh. 

t  /.  e.  The  aiifieiit  ruined  city,  a  name  very  generally  given  by  the  Turks  to  ruine. 

t  The  form  of  salulatioa  used  by  the  Turks,  cnnsisliiig  of  raising  the  baud  from  the 
breast,  or  sometimes  from  the  ground,  to  the  forehead. 


na^^H 


and  women  running  out  and  pressing  us  to  stop  and  eat  bread.  The  spa- 
cioug  tent  of  the  chief  was  divided  by  partitions  of  reeds  tastuiully  inter- 
woven with  colored  wool.  The  coolest  part  of  the  salamlik  had  been  pre- 
pared for  our  reception,  and  was  spread  with  fine  carpets  and  silken  cush- 
ions. The  men  of  the  tribe,  amongst  whom  were  many  tall  and  handsome 
youths,  were  dressed  in  clean  and  hecotntng  garments.  They  assembled  in 
great  numbers,  but  left  the  top  of  the  teal  entirely  to  us,  seating  themselves, 
or  standing  at  the  sides  and  bottom,  which  was  wide  enough  to  admit 
twenty-four  men  crouched  together  in  a  row.  The  chief  and  his  brothers, 
followed  by  their  servants  bearing  trays  loaded  with  cups,  presented  the 
coiTee  to  their  guests. 

After  some  conversation  wo  went  to  the  harem,  and  were  received  by  his 
mother,  a  venerable  lady,  witli  long  silvery  locks  and  a  dignified  counte- 
nance and  demeanor.  Uer  dress  was  of  the  purest  white  and  scrupulous- 
ly clean.  Allogether  she  was  almost  the  only  comely  old  woman  I  had 
seen  amongst  Eastern  tribes.  The  wives  and  daughters  of  Ihe  chiefs,  with 
a  crowd  of  women,  were  collected  in  the  tent.  Amongst  Ihein  were  many 
distinguished  by  their  handsome  features.  They  hud  not  the  rich  olive 
complexion  or  graceful  carriage  of  the  Bedouin  girls,  nor  their  piercing 
eyes  or  long  black  eyelashes.  Their  beauty  was  more  European,  some 
having  even  light  hair  and  blue  eyes.  It  was  evident,  at  a  glance,  that 
they  were  of  a  diiTerent  race  from  the  wandering  tribes  of  the  Desert. 

The  principal  ladies  led  us  into  the  private  compartment,  divided  by 
colored  screens  from  the  rest  of  the  tent.  It  was  furnished  with  more  than 
usual  luxury.  The  cushions  were  oi'  the  choicest  silk,  and  the  carpets  (in 
the  manufacture  of  which  the  Milli  excel)  of  the  best  fabric.  Sweetmeats 
and  cotFee  had  been  prepared  for  us,  and  the  women  did  not  object  to  par- 
take of  them  at  the  same  time.  Mousa  Agha's  mother  described  th«>  va- 
rious marriage  ceremonies  of  the  tribe.  Our  account  of  similar  matters  in 
Europe  excited  great  amusement  amongst  the  ladies.  The  Milli  girls  are 
highly  prized  by  the  Kurds.  Twenty  purses,  nearly  £100,  we  wtre  boost- 
ingly  told,  had  been  given  for  one  of  unusual  attractions.  The  chief  point- 
ed out  one  of  his  own  wives  who  had  cost  him  that  sum.  Other  members 
of  the  same  establishment  had  dusurvcd  a  less  extravagant  investiture  of 
money.  The  prettiest  girls  were  called  before  us,  and  the  old  lady  ap- 
praised each,  amidst  the  loud  laughter  of  tlieir  companions,  who  no  doubt 
rejoiced  to  see  their  friends  valued  at  their  true  worth.  They  were  all  ta- 
tooed  on  the  arms,  and  on  other  parts  of  the  body,  but  lew  so  than  the 
Bedouin  ladies.  The  operation  is  performed  by  Arab  women,  who  wander 
firom  tent  to  tent  for  the  purpose.  Several  were  present,  and  wished  to 
give  us  an  immediate  proof  of  their  skill  upon  ourselves.  We  declined, 
however.  It  is  usually  done  at  the  ago  of  six  or  seven  :  the  punctures  arc 
made  by  a  needle,  and  the  blue  color  is  produced  by  a  mixture  of  gun- 
powder and  indigo  rubbed  into  the  wounds.  The  process  is  tedious  and 
painful,  as  the  designs  are  frequently  most  elaborate,  covering  the  whole 


268 


NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON. 


[Chap.  XIV. 


body.     The  KuT<iiBh  ladies  do  not,  like  the  Mussulman  women  of  the  town,^  \ 
conceal  their  features  with  a  veil ;  nor  do  they  object  to  mingle,  or  erea 
eat  with  the  men.     During  ray  stay  at  Urajerjch  I  invited  the  harem  of 
the  Chichi  chief,  and  their  friends,  to  a  feast  in  my  tent — an  invitation  thej  | 
accepted  with  every  sign  of  satisfaction. 

The  Milli  were  formerly  one  of  the  wealthiest  Kurdish  tribes.  Early 
in  this  centur)',  when  the  hereditary  chiefs  in  different  parts  of  the  empire 
were  still  almost  independent  of  the  Forte,  this  clan  held  the  whole  plain 
country  between  the  hills  of  Maidin  and  the  Khabour,  exacting  a  regular 
baj,  or  black-mail,  from  caravans  and  travellers  passing  through  their  ter- 
ritories. This  was  a  fruitful  source  of  revenue  when  an  extensive  com- 
merce  was  carried  on  between  Aleppo  and  Baghdad,  and  the  Aghas  were 
frequently,  on  account  of  their  wealth  and  power,  raised  to  the  rank  of 
pashas  by  the  Sultan.  The  last  was  Daoud  Pasha,  a  chief  well  known  ia  I 
Mesopotamia.  Like  other  Kardiah  tribes,  the  Milli  had  been  brought  un- 
der the  immediate  control  of  the  local  governors,  and  were  now  included 
within  the  pashalic  of  Diarbekir.  They  still  possessed  all  the  riches  that 
nomades  can  well  possess,  when  they  were  wantonly  plundered,  and  alraoet 
reduced  to  want,  by  the  Turkish  troops  three  years  ago.  Although  the 
Porto  openly  condemned  the  outrage,  and  had  promised  compensation,  no 
step  whatever  had  been  taken  to  restore  the  stolen  property,  the  greater  ] 
part  of  which  had  passed  into  the  government  treasury. 

We  had  an  excellent  dinner  in  the  salamik,  varied  by  many  savoury 
dishes  and  delicacies  sent  from  the  harem  :  such  as  trufOes,  dressed  in  dif- 
ferent ways,  several  preparations  of  milk  and  cream  ;  honey,  curds,  iec 
After  we  bad  retired,  the  other  gtiests  were  called  to  the  feast  by  reiayt. 
The  chief,  however,  always  remained  seated  before  the  dishes,  eating  a  Ii^ 
tie  with  all,  and  leaving  his  brother  to  summon  those  who  were  invited; 
such  being  the  custom  amongst  these  Kurdii. 

Mijweil,  during  our  visit.,  had  been  seated  in  a  corner,  his  eyes  wander- 
ing from  the  tent  and  its  furniture  to  the  horses  and  marcs  picketed  with- 
out, and  to  the  flocks  pasturing  around.  He  cast,  every  now  and  then,  sij^ 
nificant  glances  towards  me,  which  said  plainly  enough,  "  All  this  ought  to 
belong  to  the  Bedouins.  These  people  and  iheir  property  were  made  for 
ghaz&u.i."  As  wo  rode  away  I  accused  him  of  evil  intentions.  "  BilUh, 
ya  Bej  *."  said  he,  "  there  is,  indeed,  enough  to  make  a  man's  heart  grow 
white  with  envy  ;  but  I  have  now  eaten  his  bread  under  your  shadow,  and 
should  even  his  stick,  wherewith  Jic  drives  his  camel,  fall  into  my  hand.  I 
would  send  it  to  him."  lie  entertained  me,  as  we  returned  home,  with 
the  domestic  aflairs  of  his  family.  Rathaiyah  had  oflered  herself  in  raar- 
riage  to  Suttum,  and  not  he  to  her ;  a  common  proceeding,  it  would  ap- 
pear, among  the  Bedouins.  Suttum  had  consented,  because  he  thought  it 
politic  to  be  thus  allied  with  the  Abde,  one  of  the  most  fwwerful  branchei 
of  the  Shammar,  generally  at  war  with  the  rest  oflhe  tribe.  But  his  new 
wife,  besides  having  sent  away  her  rival,  had  already  ofi'cnded  his  family 


Chat.  XIV.l  matrimonial  negotiation.  269 

by  her  pride  and  haughtiness.  MijwcU  rather  looked  upon  his  brother 
with  pity,  as  a  henpecked  husband.  He  himself,  although  already  mar- 
ried to  one  wife,  and  betrothed  to  Maizi,  whom  he  would  soon  bo  able  to 
daim,  was  projecting  a  third  marriage.  His  heart  had  been  stolen  by  an 
anaeen  damsel,  whose  beauties  and  virtues  had  been  the  theme  of  soma 
wandering  Arab  rhymers,  and  she  was  of  the  Fedhan  Aneyza,  the  mortal 
oiemies  of  the  Shammar.  Her  father  was  the  Sheikh  of  the  tribe,  and  his 
tents  were  on  the  other  side  of  the  Euphrates.  The  difliculties  and  dan- 
gen  of  the  courtship  served  only  to  excite  still  more  the  ardent  mind  of 
the  Bedouin.  His  romantic  imagination  had  pictiued  a  perfection  of  love- 
linea ;  his  whole  thoughts  were  now  occupied  in  devising  the  means  of 
poasessing  this  treasure.*  He  had  already  apprised  the  girl  of  his  love  by 
a  tmsty  messenger,  one  of  her  own  tribe,  living  with  the  Shammar.  His 
osnfidant  had  extolled  the  graces,  prowess,  and  wealth  of  the  young  Sheikh, 
with  all  the  eloquence  of  a  Bedouin  poet,  and  had  elicited  a  favorable  re- 
,  ply.  More  than  one  interchange  of  sentiments  had,  by  such  means,  since 
>pUMd  between  them.  The  damsel  had,  at  last,  promised  him  her  hand, 
if  bo  could  claim  her  in  her  own  tent.  Mijwell  had  now  planned  a  scheme 
w^h  he  was  eager  to  put  into  execution.  Waiting  until  the  Fedhan 
■0  encamped  that  he  could  approach  them  without  being  previously 
1^^  would  monnt  his  deloul,  and  leading  his  best  mare,  ride  to  the  tent 
of  the  lul's  father.  Meat  would,  of  course,  be  laid  before  him,  and  hav- 
ing eaten^lie  would  be  the  guest,  and  under  the  protection  of  the  Sheikh. 
On  the  following  morning  he  would  present  his  mare,  describing  her  race 
,  and  qualities^  to  his  host,  and  ask  his  daughter ;  ofiering,  at  the  same  time, 
tp  add  any  other  gift  that  might  be  thought  worthy  of  her.  The  father,  who 
ivpld  probably  not  bo  ignorant  of  what  had  passed  between  the  lovers, 
ti^lpi  at  onea  eonsent  to  the  union,  and  give  back  the  mare  to  his  future 
•oittii-law.  The  marriage  would  shortly  afterwards  be  solemnised,  and  an 
alliance  voold  thus  be  formed  between  the  two  tribes.  Such  was  Mij well's 
plan,  and  it  was  one  not  unfrequently  adopted  by  Bedouins  under  similar 
(aioumstanccs. 

A  Bedouin  will  never  ask  money  or  value  in  kind  for  his  daughter,  as 
&then  do  amongst  the  sedentary  tribes  and  in  towns,  where  girls  are  lit- 
erally sold  to  their  husbands,  but  he  will  consult  her  wishes,  and  she  may, 
••  she  thinks  fit,  accept  or  reject  a  suitor,  so  long  as  ho  be  not  her  cousin. 
Ptesents  are  frequently  made  by  the  lover  to  the  damsel  herself  before  mar- 
riage, but  rarely  to  the  parents.  Although  the  Bedouin  chiefs  have  8ome> 
times  taken  wives  from  the  towns  on  the  borders  of  the  Desert,  such  as  Mo- 
sul, Baghdad,  or  Aleppo,  it  is  very  rare  to  find  townspeople,  or  Arabs  of  the 
eoltivating  tribes,  married  to  Bedouin  women.  I  have,  however,  known 
instances. 

The  laws  of  Dakheel,  another  very  remarkable  branch  of  Bedouin  legis- 

*  Borckhardt  remarks  that  "  Bedouins  are,  perhaps,  the  only  people  of  the  Eaat 
that  can  be  entitled  true  lovers."    (Notes  on  Bedouins,  p.  166.) 


270 


NIKXVZH  AND  BABTLOK. 


[Chap.  XIV. 


lation,  in  iorce  amongst  the  Shammar,  are  nearly  the  same  as  those  oftha 
Aneyza  and  Medjaz  Arabs,  of  which  Burckhardt  has  giren  so  full  and  ia> 
teresling  an  accouut.  I  have  little,  therefore,  to  add  upon  the  subject,  bat 
its  importance  demands  a  few  words.  No  customs  are  more  religiouslj 
Yeipected  by  the  true  Arab  than  those  regulating  the  mutual  relations  ol 
the  protected  and  protector.  A  violation  of  Dakheel  (as  this  law  is  called)! 
,\TOuld  bo  considered  a  disgrace  not  only  upon  the  individual,  but  upon 
family,  and  even  upon  his  tribe,  which  never  could  be  wiped  out.  No 
greater  insult  can  bo  offered  to  a  man,  or  to  his  clan,  than  to  say  that 
has  broken  the  Dakheel.  A  disregard  of  this  sacred  obligation  is  the  lirst 
symptom  of  degeneracy  in  an  Arab  tribe;  and  when  once  it  exists,  the 
treachery  and  vices  of  the  Turk  rapidly  succeed  to  tlie  honesty  and  fidelity. 
of  the  truL-'  Arab  character.  The  relations  between  the  Dakheel  and  ih* 
Dakhal  (or  the  protector  and  protected)  arise  from  a  variety  of  circum- 
stances, tlic  principal  of  which  are,  eating  a  man's  salt  and  broad,  and 
claiming  his  protection  by  doing  certain  acts,  or  repeating  a  certain  formu- 
la of  words,  Amongst  the  Sharnmar.  if  a  man  can  seize  the  end  of  a 
string  or  thread,  the  other  end  of  which  is  held  by  his  enemy,  he  imme- 
diately becomes  his  Dakheel.*  If  he  touch  the  canvas  of  a  tent,  or  can  even 
throw  his  mace  towards  it,  he  is  the  Dakheel  of  its  owner.  If  he  can  spit 
upon  a  man,  or  touch  any  article  belonging  to  him  with  his  teeth,  he  icl 
Dakhal,  unless  of  course,  in  case  of  theft,  it  be  the  person  who  caught  him 
A  woman  can  protect  any  number  of  persons,  or  even  of  tents. t  If  a  horse- 
man ride  into  a  tent,  he  and  his  horse  are  Dakhal.  A  stranger  who 
eaten  with  a  Shammar,  can  give  Dakheel  to  his  enemy ;  for  instance,  I 
could  protect  an  Ancjv.a.  though  there  is  blood  between  his  tribe  and  the 
Shaminar  According  to  Mijwell.  any  person,  by  previously  calling  on 
"  Nulla"  (I  renounce),  may  reject  an  application  for  Dakheel. 

The  Shamraar  never  plunder  a  caravan  within  sight  of  their  encampment, 
for  as  long  as  a  stranger  can  see  their  tents  they  consider  him  their  Dak> 
heel.     If  a  man  who  hasilaten  bread  and  slept  in  a  tent,  steal  his  host'*' 

•  Fur  the  very  singular  customs  as  to  tlie  confinement  and  liberation  of  a  A^tritMy, 
or  lolibcr.  umi  of  Llie  reliition  Uftween  a  ra/tat  aa<i  his  rabict,  or  tltp  captor  and  the 
cnptivc,  scp  Diin-khardt's  Notes  on  the  Bedouins,  p.  89,     I  can  bear  wuofss  to  ibe 

'  Inilli  iind  nfiHinicy  of  his  .iccount,  having  diirine  ray  early  wanderings  amongst  the 
Bi'doiniiH  witnBBBPJ  nearly  cveryUiinR  lie  desiTibis.    The  English  reader  can  have 

1 1)0  (Mirnrl  iilcii  ol"  the.  hiibits  and  manners  of  the  wandcrinj,'  tribes  of  the  Dt^scrt,  hab- 

[Hn  anil  umiitiors  prulmlily  dating  from  the  rninotf3iaiiit*iiiiiy.  and  consequently  of  the 

)  Ituthi'it  inU'rcBt,  wiiliout  reading  Xhv  truthful  desrripiioiis  of  lUia  admirable  Ir^ivellcr 
}  in  the  wiiiti-r  of  the  year,  my  rosident'e  in  Babylonia,  aflt-r  an  engagement  near 

•iMbdail  Uitwcin  the  Boraij  and  the  rcKohir  Tiirltish  iroiips,  in  which  the  latter  were 
llhllt''d,  a  llyini!  soWier  was  caught  wiihin  siplit  of  an  encampment.  His  captors 
\v«»M'  Moliii!  I'l  I'i't  him  to  tloatli,  when  ho  streu-hed  his  hands  towards  the  nearest 

i  lent.  cUlniiim  Ihe  L>iikhi*'I  of  its  owiwr,  who  chanced  to  be  Sahiman,  Mijwell's  eld- 
«<ii|  hrolht'r     Thii  Sht-iUh  was  absent  from  honiL',  but  his  beautiful  wife  Nonra  an- 

•■>vi'rt>d  to  (lia  up|Kiiil,  and  seizing  a  tent-pole,  lK>at  uir  his  pursuers  and  saved  his  lift 
I'hla  poniiuci  was  much  applauded  by  the  Bedouins. 


mt^ 


Ohap.  XIV.  ] 


A  BEDOtnN  FORT. 


horse,  he  is  diBhonored,  and  hia  tribe  also,  unleBS  they  send  back  the  stolen 
animal.  Should  the  horse  die,  the  thief  himself  should  be  delivered  up,  to 
be  treated  as  the  owner  of  the  stolen  properly  thinks  lit.  If  two  enoraies 
meet  and  exchange  the  "Srifam  alnkiim"  even  by  mistake,  there  is  peace 
between  them,  and  they  will  not  fight.  It  is  disgraceful  to  rob  a  woman 
of  her  clothes ;  and  if  a  female  be  found  amongst  a  party  of  plundered 
Arabs,  even  the  enemy  of  her  tribe  will  give  her  a  horse  to  rido  back  to 
her  tents.  If  a  man  be  pursuod  by  an  enemy,  or  even  be  on  the  ground,  ho 
ean  save  his  life  by  calling  out  "  Dakbeel,"  unless  there  be  blood  between 
them.  It  would  be  considered  cowardly  and  unworthy  of  a  Shammar  to 
deprive  an  enemy  of  his  camel  or  horse  where  he  could  neither  reach  wa- 
ter or  an  encampment.  When  Bedouins  meet  persons  in  the  mtd«t  of  the 
Desert,  they  will  frequently  take  them  within  a  certain  distance  of  tents, 
and,  first  pointing  out  their  site,  then  deprive  them  of  their  property. 

An  Arab  who  has  given  his  protection  to  another,  whether  formally,  oi 
by  an  act  which  confers  the  privilege  of  Dakhcel,  is  bound  to  protect  his 
Dakhal  under  all  circumstances,  even  to  the  risk  of  his  own  property  and 
life.  I  could  relate  many  instances  of  the  greatest  sacrifices  having  been 
made  by  individuals,  and  even  of  whole  tribes  having  been  involved  in  war 
with  powerful  enemies  by  whom  they  have  been  almost  utterly  destroyed, 
in  defence  of  this  most  sacred  obligation.  Even  the  Turkish  rulers  respect 
a  law  to  which  they  may  one  day  owe  their  safety,  and  more  than  one 
haughty  Pasha  of  Baghdad  has  found  refuge  and  protection  in  the  tent  of 
a  poor  Arab  Sheikh,  whom,  during  the  days  of  his  prosperity,  he  had  sub- 
jected to  every  injury  and  wrong,  and  yet  who  would  then  defy  the  gov- 
ernment itself,  and  risk  his  verj*  life,  rathor  than  surrender  his  guest.  The 
eMcnce  of  Arab  virtue  is  a  respect  for  the  laws  of  hospitality,  of  which  the 
Dakheel  in  all  its  various  forms  is  but  a  part. 

Ainongst  the  Bedouins  who  watched  our  camels  was  one  Saoud,  a  poet 
of  renown  amongst  the  tribes.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  ballads  that 
ho  had  formerly  composed  in  honor  of  Sofuk,  anCothcr  celebrated  Shammar 
Sheikhs,  he  chiefly  recited  extemporary  stanzas  on  passing  events,  or  on 
persons  who  were  present.  He  would  sit  in  my  tent  of  an  evening,  and 
•ing  his  verses  in  a  wild,  though  plaintive,  strain,  to  the  great  delight  of 
the  assembled  guests,  and  particularly  of  Mijwell,  -.vlio,  like  a  true  Be- 
douin, was  easily  affected  by  poetry,  esperially  with  such  as  might  touch 
his  own  passion  for  the  unknown  lady.  He  would  sway  his  body  to  and 
fro,  keeping  time  witii  the  measure,  sobbing  aloud  as  the  poet  sang  the 
death  of  his  companions  in  war,  breaking  out  into  loud  laughter  when  the 
harden  of  the  ditty  was  a  satire  upon  his  friends,  making  extraordinary 
aoina  and  grimaces  to  show  his  feelings,  more  like  a  drunken  man  than  a 
sober  Bedouin.  But  when  the  bard  improvised  an  amatory  ditty,  the  young 
chief's  excitement  was  almost  beyond  control.  The  other  Bedouins  were 
scarcely  less  moved  by  these  rude  measures,  which  have  the  same  kind  of 
efiect  on  the  wild  tribes  of  the  Persian  mountains.     Such  verses  chanted 


272 


NINEVXH  AyO  BASTLOtt. 


[Chap.  XIV. 


by  their  self-taught  poets,  or  by  the  girls  of  their  eocanipment,  will  drive 
warriors  to  the  combat,  fearless  of  death,  or  prove  an  ample  reward  on  their 
retuni  from  the  dangers  of  the  gkazou  or  the  fight.  The  excitement  they 
produce  exceeds  that  of  the  grape.  He  who  would  understand  the  influence 
of  the  Homeric  ballads  in  the  heroic  ages,  should  witness  the  effect  which 
similar  compositions  have  upon  tho  wild  nomadca  of  the  East.  Amongst 
the  Kurds  and  Lours  I  have  not  met  with  bards  who  chanted  extemporary 
vcr^s.  Episodus  from  the  great  historical  epics  of  Persia,  and  odes  from 
their  favorite  poets,  arc  recited  during  war  or  in  the  tents  of  their  chiefs. 
But  the  art  of  improvising  seems  innate  in  tho  Bedouin.  Although  his  me- 
tre and  mode  of  recitation  are  rude  to  European  ears,  his  rich  and  sonorous 
language  lends  itself  to  this  species  of  poetry,  whilst  his  exuberant  imagina- 
tion furnishes  him  with  endless  beautiful  and  appropriate  allegories.  The 
wars  between  the  tribes,  the  ghazou,  and  their  struggles  with  the  Turks  ape 
inexhaustible  themes  for  verse,  and  in  an  Arab  tent  there  is  little  else  to  af- 
ford excitement  or  amusement.  The  Bedouins  have  no  books  ;  even  a  Ko- 
ran is  seldom  seen  amongst  them  :  it  is  equally  rare  to  find  a  wandering 
Arab  who  can  read-  They  have  no  written  literature,  and  their  traditiooal 
history  consists  of  little  more  than  thu  tales  of  a  few  storytellers  who  wan- 
der from  encampment  to  encampment,  and  earn  their  bread  by  chautiug 
verses  to  tho  monotonous  tones  of  a  one-stringed  fiddle  made  of  a  gourd  cov- 
ered with  sheep-skin. 

The  extemporary  odea  which  Saoud  sung  before  ub  were  chiefly  in  pralae 
of  those  present,  or  a  good^iatured  satire  upon  some  of  our  party. 

The  day  of  our  departure  now  drew  nigh,  and  Suleiman  Agha,  to  do  lu 
honor,  invited  us  to  a  general  review  of  the  irregular  ttoops  under  hia  com- 
mand. The  horsemen  of  the  Milli  and  Chichi  Kurds,  and  of  the  Arab  tribes 
who  encamped  with  them,  joined  the  Turkish  cavalry,  and  added  to  the 
interest  and  beauty  of  the  display.  The  Hyta-Bashis  were,  as  usual,  re- 
splendent in  silk  and  gold.  There  were  some  high-bred  horses  in  the  field; 
hut  tho  men,  on  the  wholdjhvcre  badly  mounted,  and  the  irregular  cavalry 
is  daily  dogoncrating  throughout  the  empire.  The  Turkish  Government 
have  unwisely  neglected  a  branch  of  their  national  armies  to  which  they 
owed  most  of  their  great  victories,  and  at  one  time  their  superiority  over  f 
all  tlicir  neighbours.  Tho  abolition  of  the  Spabiliks,  and  other  military 
tenures,  has,  of  course,  contributed  much  to  this  result,  and  has  led  to  the 
deterioration  of  that  excellent  breed  of  horses  which  once  distinguished  the 
Ottoman  light  cavalry.  No  cfllirt  is  now  made  by  the  government  to 
keep  up  the  race,  and  the  scanty  pay  of  the  irregular  troops  is  not  suffi- 
cient to  enable  them  to  obtain  even  second-rate  animals.  Everything  has 
been  sacrificed  to  the  regular  arrny,  undoubtedly  an  essential  element  of 
national  defence ;  but  in  a  future  war  the  Turks  will  probably  find  reason 
to  regret  that  they  have  altogether  sacrificed  \<*  it  the  ancient  irregulsi 
horse. 

Th«  Kurds,  although  eacumbeicd  by  their  long  flowing  garments  and 


VoiMnle  Conr  of  Koukib. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


DKFAITDRB  FSOM  THE  KHABOOK. ARAB  SACArlTV. — THE   IIOL. THK   LAKB  OK   KRATDOIII- 

YAH. — KKTI'IIN    Of   OltrTl'SI."  ENCAMPMKNT    OP  TIIR    «IIAMMAR. — ASAB    IIORSKS — TIIKIB 

SREEns — THKIR     v*nrE THEIR     SPEED. »HBntH     FKKHAN. — VSZtm     VILLAOKS. fAt- 

COdS, AN     ALARM. ABOU    MARIA. ESK)     MOSUI,. — .IREIVAL    AT    MOSUL. RCTCRM    Qf 

■  UTTim  TO  THE  UBSCBT. 

Mil.  IIoitMUZD  HH^ji  having  sufEcieiitly  recovered  from  his  dangerous 
illneas  to  be  able  to  rlS^^^^,  aiid  no  rL^mains,  except  potter)'  and  bricks, 
having  been  discoverM^^uie  mounds  of  Um-Jcrjch,  we  left  the  enramp- 
incnt  ofSiilciman  Agha  «Rho  29th  of  April,  on  our  return  to  Mosul.  We 
crossed  the  Jerujer  near  its  junction  with  the  Khabour,  where  two  moundc, 
named  Al  Hasteha  and  Abrtu-Bekr,  rise  on  the  left  banji  of  the  river. 

We  again  visited  the  remarkablo  volcanic  coiic  of  Koukab.  As  we  drew 
near  to  it,  Mijwell  detected,  in  the  loose  soil,  the  fool-prints  of  two  men, 
which  he  immediately  recognised  to  be  those  of  Shararaar  thieves  return- 
ing from  the  Kurdieh  encampments.  The  sagacity  of  the  Bedouin  in  de- 
teniiining  from  such  marks,  whether  ofmaii  or  beast,  and,  from  similar  in- 
dications, the  tribe,  time  of  passing,  and  business,  of  those  who  may  have 
left  them,  with  many  other  particulars,  is  well  known. "  In  this  respect 
he  resembles  the  American  Indian,  though  the  circumstances  difier  under 
which  the  two  are  called  upon  to  exercise  this  peculiar  faculty.  The  ona 
seeks  or  avoids  his  enemy  in  vast  plains,  which,  for  three-fourtlis  of  the 
year,  are  without  any  vegetation  ;  the  other  tracks  his  prey  through  thick 
woods  and  high  grass.     This  quickness  of  perception  is  the  result  of  con- 


Chap.  XV.] 


AKAB  8A0ACITT. 


275 


tinual  observation  and  of  caution  encouraged  irom  earliest  youth.  When 
the  warriors  of  a  tribe  arc  engaged  ia  distant  forays  or  in  war,  their  tents 
and  flocks  are  frequently  lel't  to  the  care  of  a  mere  child.  He  must  receive 
strangers,  amongst  whom  may  be  those  having  claims  of  blood  upon  his 
family,  and  must  guard  against  marauders,  who  may  be  lurking  about  the 
I  encampment.  Every  unknown  sign  and  mark  must  be  examined  and  ac- 
counted for.  If  he  should  see  the  track  of  a  horseman,  he  must  ask  himself 
why  one  so  near  the  dwellings  did  not  stop  to  eat  bread  or  drink  water  ? 
vrut  he  a  spy  ;  one  of  a  party  meditating  an  attack  t  or  a  traveller,  who  did 
not  know  the  site  of  the  tents  ?  When  did  he  pass  ?  From  whence  did  he 
come  ?  Whilst  the  child  in  a  civilised  country  is  still  under  the  care  of  its 
tinrse,  the  Bedouin  boy  is  compelled  to  exercise  his  highest  faculties,  and  on 
his  prudence  and  sagacity  may  sometimes  depend  the  safety  of  his  tribe. 

The  expert  Bedouin  can  draw  conclusions  from  the  footprints  and  dung 
of  animals  that  would  excite  the  astonishment  of  an  European.      He  will 
tell  whether  the  camel  was  loaded  or  unloaded,  whether  recently  fed  or  suf- 
■  iering  from  hunger,  whether  fatigued  or  fresh,  the  lime  when  it  passed  by, 
f  ivhether  the  owner  waa  a  man  of  the  desert  or  of  iho  town,  whether  a 
friend  or  foe,  and  sometimes  even  the  name  of  his  tribe.     I  have  fre- 
quently been  cautioned  by  my  Bedouin  companions  not  to  dismount  from 
:  my  dromedary,  that  my  footsteps  might  not  be  recognised  as  those  of  a 
stranger ;  aud  my  deloul  has  even  been  led  by  my  guide  to  prevent  those 
who  might  cross  our  path  from  detecting  that  it  was  ridden  by  one  not 
thoroughly  accustomed  to  the  management  of  ftie  animal.     It  would  be 
easy  to  explain  the  means,  simple  enough  indeed,  by  which  the  Arab  of 
[  the  Desert  arrives  at  these  results.     In  each  case  there  is  a  train  of  logical 
deduction,  merely  requiring  common  acutcncss  and  great  experience. 

We  encamped  for  the  night  near  the  mound  ol'TWnenir,  and  resumed 
001  journey  on  the  following  morning.  Biddin^AlCwell  to  the  pleasant 
banks  of  the  Khabour,  we  struck  into  the  DesS^BMe  direction  of  the  yin- 
jar.  Extensive  beds  of  gypsum,  or  alabaster, "Hlh  as  was  used  in  the  As- 
syriaa  edihces,  formed  for  some  miles  the  surface  of  the  plain.  Its  salt  and 
nitrous  exudations  destroy  vegetation,  unless  there  bo  sufficient  soil  about 
it  to  nourish  the  roots  of  herbs ;  generally,  only  the  craoka  and  fissures  in 
the  strata  are  marked  by  lines  of  grass  and  flowers  crossing  the  plain  like 
the  meshes  of  a  many-colored  net. 

We  &oon  approached  a  dense  mass  of  reeds  and  rank  herbage,  covering 
a  swamp  called  the  Hoi,  which  extends  from  the  Lake  of  Khaloitniyah  to 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  Khabour.  This  jungle  is  the  hiding-place 
of  many  kinds  of  wild  beasts  :  lions  lurk  in  it,  and  in  the  thick  cover  the 
Bedouins  find  their  cubs.  As  we  drew  near  to  the  first  spring  that  feeds 
the  marsh,  about  eight  miles  from  Thenenir,  we  saw  a  leopard  stealing 
from  the  high  grass.  When  pursued,  the  animal  turned  and  entered  the 
thickets  before  the  horseman  could  approach  it. 
When  we  reached  the  head  spring  of  the  Hoi,  the  Jebours  fired  the  jun- 


COAP.  XV.  1  ^'*^^  O^  KHATODNIYAH.  277 

g'le,  and  the  flames  toon  spread  far  and  wide.  Long  after  wo  had  left  the 
marsh  we  could  hear  the  crackling  of  the  burning  reeds,  and  until  night- 
fall the  sky  was  darkened  by  thick  volumes  of  smoke. 

Daring  our  journey  an  Arab  joined  us,  riding  on  a  deloul,  with  his  wife. 
EBb  two  children  wei«  crammed  into  a  pair  of  saddle  bags,  a  black  head 
m^ng  nut  uf  either  side.     He  had  quarrelled  with  his  kinsmen,  and  was 
moving  with  his  family  and  little  property  to  another  tribe. 

Al\cT  a  fiix  houn'  ride  we  found  ouiselves  upon  the  margin  of  a  small 
lake,  whose  quiet  surface  reflected  the  deep  Uue  of  the  cloudless  sky.  To 
thr  Boiilh  of  il  roete  a  line  of  low  undulating  hills,  and  to  the  east  the  fur- 
nvfod  mount  o-iu  of  the  Sinjar.  On  all  other  sides  was  the  Desert,  in 
which  t)it«  Military  sheet  of  water  lay  like  a  mirage.  In  the  midst  of  the 
kke  was  it  poniusula,  joined  to  the  mainland  by  a  narrow  causeway,  and 
b«yond  it  n  ^inall  island.  On  the  former  were  the  ruins  of  a  town,  whose 
falling  walls  and  towers  were  doubled  in  the  clear  waters.  It  would  be 
{JLllicuIt  to  iinagina  a  scene  more  calm,  more  fair,  or  more  unlocked  for  in 
the  midst  of  a  wilderness.     It  was  like  fairy-land. 

^^bc  sinall  town  of  Khatouniyah  was,  until  recently,  inhabited  by  a  tribe 

^^Birab*.     A  feud,  arising  out  of  the  rival  pretensions  of  two  chiefs,  sprang 

tap  amcmgit  them.     The  factions  fought,  many  persons  were  killed,  and 

\  the  pLicc  was  consequently  deserted,  one  party  joining  the  Tai  Arabs  near 

Nisibio,  \hf}  otti«r  the  Yezidis  of  Keraniyah.     We  traced  the  remains  of 

idBttivation,  ttn<]  the  dry  water-eourses,  which  once  irrigated  plots  of  rice 

rflb  melun  l)i'd»     The  lake  may  be  about  six  miles  in  circumference. 

Vkom  iti  abundant  supply  of  water,  and  its  central  position  between  the 

flngar  and  the  Khabonr,  Khatouniyah  must  at  one  time  have  been  a  place 

flf  ■ome  iinportance. 

The  few  remains  that  exist  do  not  belong  to  an  earlier  period  than  the 
Aimb.  The  small  town  occupies  the  whole  of  the  peninsula,  and  is  sur- 
nranded  by  a  wall,  rising  from  the  water's  edge,  with  a  gate  opening  on 
the  narrow  causeway.  The  houses  were  of  stonr,  and  the  rooms  vaulted. 
In  Ihe  deserted  streets  were  still  standing  the  ruins  of  a  small  bazar,  a 
meeqae,  and  a  bath. 

The  water  of  the  lake,  although  brackish,  like  nearly  all  the  springs  in 
thia  part  of  the  Desert,  is  not  only  drinkable,  but,  according  to  the  Bcdou- 
ini,  exceedingly  wholesome  for  man  and  beast.  It  abounds  in  fish,  sunie 
of  vhich  are  said  to  be  of  very  considerable  size.  As  we  approached,  the 
Baiiakdar,  seeing  something  struggling  in  a  shallow,  rode  to  it,  and  cap- 
tared  a  kind  of  barbel,  weighing  above  twenty  pounds.  Water-fowl  and 
widen,  of  various  kinds,  congregate  on  the  shores.  The  stately  crane  and 
the  graceful  egret,  with  its  snow-white  plumage  and  feathery  crest,  stand 
lazily  on  its  margin  ;  and  thousands  of  ducks  and  teal  eddy  on  its  surface 
round  the  unwieldy  pelican. 

Our  tents  were  pitched  on  the  very  water's  edge.  At  sunset  a  few 
olouds  which  lingered  in  the  western  sky  were  touched  with  the  golden 


[Chap.  XV. 

ray«  of  the  Betting-  «ttn.  The  glowing  tinU  of  the  heavens,  and  the  clear 
blue  shadows  of  the  Siojar  hills,  mirrored  in  the  molionless  lake,  imparted 
a  calm  to  the  scene  which  well  matched  with  the  solitude  around. 

We  had  scarcely  resumed  our  march  in  the  morning  when  we  spied 
Suttum  and  Khoraif  coming  towards  us,  and  urging  their  Heet  mares  to  the 
top  of  their  speed.  A  Jebour,  leaving  our  encampment  at  Um-Jeijeh  when 
Uormuzd  was  dangerously  ill,  had  spread  a  report*  in  the  Desert  that  he 
was  actually  dead.  To  give  additional  authenticity  to  his  tale,  he  had  mi- 
nutely described  the  proocBs  by  which  my  companion's  body  had  been  Krst 
salted,  and  thou  sent  to  Frnukislaa  in  a  box,  on  a  camel.  Suttum,  as  we 
met,  showed  the  mnot  lively  signs  of  grief ;  but  when  he  saw  the  dead  man 
himself  restored  to  lifo,  his  joy  and  his  embraces  knew  no  bounds. 

We  roilc  over  a  low  uudulaliiig  country  at  the  foot  of  the  Sinjar  hills, 
every  dell  and  ravine  being  a  bed  of  flowers.  About  five  miles  from  Kba- 
touniyah  we  passed  a  small  reedy  stream,  called  SuH'eyra,  on  which  the 
Boraij  (Suttum's  tribe)  had  been  encamped  on  the  previous  day.  They 
had  now  moved  further  into  the  plain,  and  we  stopped  at  their  watering- 
place,  a  brackish  rivulet  called  Sayhul,  their  tents  being  about  three  miles 
distant  from  us  in  the  Desert.  We  pitched  on  a  rising  ground  immediate- 
ly above  the  stream.  Beneath  us  was  the  golden  plain,  swarming  with 
moving  objects.  The  Klionisseh,  and  al!  the  tribes  under  Ferhan,  had  now 
congregated  to  the  north  of  the  Sinjar  previous  to  their  summer  migradoa 
to  the  pastures  of  the  Khabour.  Their  mares,  camels,  and  sheep  came  to 
8ayhel  for  water,  and  during  the  whole  day  there  was  one  endless  line  of 
atiitnaU  passing  to  and  fro  before  our  encampment.  I  sat  watching  them 
from  my  tent.  As  each  mare  and  horse  stopped  to  drink  at  the  troubled 
stream,  Outturn  named  its  owner  and  its  breed,  and  described  its  exploits. 
The  mares  were  generally  followed  by  two  or  three  colts,  who  are  suiiered, 
even  in  their  third  year,  to  run  loose  aller  their  dams,  and  to  gambol  aare- 
»t mined  over  the  plain  It  is  to  their  perfect  freedom  whilst  young  that 
the  horses  of  the  Desert  owe  their  speed  and  the  suppleness  of  their  limbs. 

It  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  add  a  few  remarks  on  the  subject  of  Arab 
horses.  The  Bedouins,  as  it  is  well  known,  divide  their  thorough- bred* 
into  five  races,  descended,  as  some  declare,  from  the  five  favourite  mares  of 


•  'Hin  manner  in  which  reports  are  spread  ami  exaggerated  in  the  Desert  is  fre- 
[■u»intly  hiRhly  amutsitic.     hi  all  cneampinents  there  arc  idle  vagabonds  who  hve  by 
'wrryiiig  news  fr4)iti  irilie  lo  tritM?,  thereby  earning  a  dinner  and  spending  their  lei»- 
tufliours.     As  siion  as  a  stranger  arrives,  and  relates  anything  of  interest  to  ttie 
JMha,  some  siirh  fellow  will  mount  his  ready-saddled  deloul.  fwi  make  the  best  of 
tewav  to  r^'tiiil  th<'  news  in  a  npighbcmring  tent,  from  whence  it  is  carried,  in  the 
MMB  ^Xi  I"  others      It  is  extraordinary  how  rapidly  a  report  spreads  in  this  man- 
air  OTiT  a  very  (jreal  diataiiee.     Sofuk  sent  to  inform  the  British  resident  at  Bagb- 
telWllM  sictif  and  fall  uf  .\cre  many  dayshcfurc  the  special  messenger  dispatched 
to ^■Bncelhttt  event  reached  the  city  ;  and  1  have  frfqnently  rejeeted  intelligence 
1  tma  Bedouins,  on  account  of  the  apparent  im[>o«i<ibi]iiy  of  its  coming  to  me 
eh  I  aoatc*.  which  has  afterwards  proved  to  be  true. 


Chap.  XV.  ] 


AHAfi  HORSES. 


279 


the  Prophet.  The  names,  however,  of  these  breeds  vary  amongiit  diflerent 
tribes.  According  to  Suttum,  who  was  belter  acquainted  with  the  history 
and  traditions  of  the  Bedouins  than  ahiiDSt  auy  Arab  I  ever  rnet,  they  are 
aU  derived  from  cue  original  stock,  the  Koheyleh,  which,  in  course  of  time, 
was  divided,  after  the  names  of  eelebraled  mares,  into  the  following  five 
branches  : — Obeyan  Sherakh,  Hedba  Zayhi,  Manekia  Hedrehji,  Shouay- 
mah  Sablah,  and  Margoiib*  These  fomi  the  Kamse,  or  the  five  breeds, 
(rota  which  alone  entire  horses  are  chosetk  to  propagate  the  race.  From 
the  Kamsc  have  sprung  a  number  of  families  no  less  noble,  perhaps,  than 
the  original  five;  but  the  fc*harnmar  receive  their  stallions  with  suspicion, 
or  reject  them  altogBther.  Among  the  best  known  are  the  Wathna  Kher- 
Ban,  so  called  from  the  mares  being  said  to  be  worth  their  weight  in  gold 
(noble  horses  of  this  breed  are  found  amongst  the  Arab  tribes  inhabiting 
the  districts  to  the  east  of  the  Euphrates,  the  Beni  Lam,  Al  Kamees,  and 
Al  Kilhere)  ;  Khalawi,  thus  named  from  a  wonderful  feat  of  speed  per- 
formed by  a  celebrated  mare  in  Soulhcrn  Mesopotamia ;  Jaiaylhani.t  and 
Julfa,  The  only  esteemed  race  in  the  Desert  which,  according  to  Suttum, 
cannot  be  traced  tu  the  Kamse,  is  the  Saklawi,  although  considered  by  the 
Shammar  and  by  the  Bedouins  of  the  Gebel  fcjhammar  aa  one  of  the  no- 
blest, if  not  the  noblest,  of  all.  It  is  divided  into  three  branches,  the  most 
valued  being  the  Saklawi  Jedran,  which  is  said  to  be  now  almost  extinct. 
The  agents  of  Abbas  Pasha,  the  Viceroy  of  Egypt,  sent  into  all  parts  of  the 
Desert  to  purchase  the  best  horses,  have  especially  sought  for  mares  of  this 
breed.  The  prices  given  for  ihcm  would  appear  enormous  even  to  the 
English  reader.  A  Sheikh  of  the  great  tribe  of  the  Al  Dhofyr  was  ofl'cred 
and  refused  for  a  mare  no  less  than  £1200,  the  negociatiou  being  carried 
on  through  Faras,  Sheikh  of  the  Montefik,  who  received  handsome  presents 
for  the  trouble  he  had  taken  in  the  matter.  As  much  as  a  thousand  pounds 
is  said  to  have  been  given  to  Sheikhs  of  the  Aneyza  for  well-known  mures 
So  that,  had  the  Pasha's  challenge  been  accepted,  the  best  blood  in  Arabia 
Would  have  been  matched  against  the  English  racer.  During  rny  resi- 
dence in  the  Desert  1  saw  several  horses  which  were  purchased  for  the 
Viceroy. 

To  understand  how  a  man,  who  has  perhaps  not  even  bread  enough  to 
feed  himself  and  his  children,  can  withstand  the  temptation  of  such  large 
sums,  it  must  be  remembered  that,  besides  the  aflection  jiroverbially  felt 
by  the  Bedouin  for  his  marc,  which  might,  perhaps,  not  be  proof  against 
■ach  a  test,  ho  is  entirely  dependent  upon  her  for  his  happiness,  his  glory. 


•  According  to  Biirckhardt,  the  five  are»  Taueyse,  Maiw^kia,  Koh(\vI<-h,  Saklawi, 
and  Julfa.  Ho  prolialily  received  tlifsi;  naincfs  from  ihe  Arabs  uf  the  Hedjaz,  who 
■re  less  acquaiiiled  wiili  ihe  breeds  of  horses  Uian  llie  Shanintnr  or  Aneyza  Uedou- 
fau.  (Notes  on  Arab.s,  p.  1 UJ ,  l>ut  at  p  SSU.  he  observes,  that  the  Ncdjcl  Arabs  d<i 
not  reckon  the  Manekia  and  Jtilfa  in  the  Kiunse  ) 
L  t  A  well-known  horse,  named  Merjian,  long  in  my  possesaion,  and  originally  pur- 
■ifewd  from  the  Arabs  bv  my  friend  Mr.  Ross,  was  of  this  breed. 


NmEVBH  Ain>  BABTLON. 


[Chap.  IY. 


aHil,  indeed,  his  very  existence.     An  Arab  poBseesing  a  horse  unrivalled  in 
•peed  and  endurance,  and  it  would  only  be  for  Buch  that  prices  like  thoK- 
I  have  mentioned  would  be  ofi'ercd,  ia  entirely  his  own  master,  and 
defy  the  world.     Once  on  its  back,  no  one  can  catch  him.     He  may  io\J 
plunder,  Aght,  and  go  to  and  fro  as  he  lists.     He  believes  in  the  word  ofj 
his  Prophet,  "that  noble  and  fierce  breeds  of  horses  are  true  richea.'^ 
Without  his  marc,  money  would  be  of  no  volne  to  him.     It  would  eitherl 
become  the  prey  of  some  one  more  powerful  and  belter  mounted  than  hiia>* 
self,  would  be  spent  in  festivities,  or  be  distributed  amongst  his  kinsmen. 
Ho  could  only  keep  his  gold  by  burjnng  it  in  some  secret  place,  and  of  what 
use  would  it  then  be  to  one  who  is  never  two  days  in  the  same  spot,  and 
who  wanders  over  a  space  of  three  or  four  hundred  miles  in  the  course  of  i 
few  months?     No  man  has  a  keener  sense  of  the  joys  of  hbcrty,  and  it] 
heartier  hatred  of  restraint,  than  the  true  Bedouin.     Give  him  the  Deser 
bis  mare,  and  his  spear,  and  he  will  not  envy  the  wealth  and  power  of  the 
greatest  of  the  earth.     He  plunders  and  robs  for  the  mere  pleasure  and  ex>J 
citomunt  which  danger  and  glory  alFord.     All  he  takes  he  divides  amongst 
his  friends,  and  he  gladly  risks  his  life  to  get  that  which  is  spent  in  on 
hour,     An  Arab  will  bog  for  a  whole  day  for  a  shirt  or  a  kerchief,  and  five 
minutes  after  he  has  obtained  it,  he  will  give  it  to  the  first  person  who 
may  happen  to  admire  it. 

A  marc  is  generally  the  property  of  two  or  more  persons,  who  have  a 
share  in  her  progeny,  regulated  by  custom,  and  dilibring  according  to  the 
tribo.  All  the  offspring  of  five  celebrated  marcs  belong  by  u&age  to  the 
head  of  the  sub-tribe  of  the  Ahl-Mohammcd,  and  whenever  horses  descend- 
tA  from  them  arc  captured  by  the  Shamniar  from  the  Aneyza  or  other 
tribes,  they  may  bo  claimed  by  him.  They  are  merely  brought  to  Ferhan, 
the  present  chief,  as  a  matter  of  form,  and  he  returns  them  to  their  cap- 
tors. Sofuk  (his  father),  however,  would  frequently  insist  upon  his  right, 
and  bestow  valuable  mares  thus  obtained  upon  his  immediate  retainers. 
The  five  breeds  are  Saklawi  Jedran,  Emiayah,  Margoub,  Hcdba  Enzaii, 
and  Haindaniyah. 

The  largest  number  of  horses,  as  well  as  those  of  the  most  esteemed 
breeds,  are  still  to  be  fouud,  as  in  the  time  of  Burckhardt,  amongst  the 
tribes  who  inhabit  Mesopotamia  and  the  great  plains  watered  by  the  Eu- 
phrates and  Tigris.  These  rich  pastures,  nourished  by  the  rains  of  winter 
and  spring,  the  climate,  and — according  to  the  Arabs — the  brackish  water 
of  the  springs  rising  in  the  gjpsum,  seem  especially  favor.iblc  to  the  rearing 
«rhor»cs.  The  best  probably  belong  to  the  SShammar  and  Aneyza  tribes,  a 
tiralry  existing  between  the  two.  and  famn  giving  the  superiority  some- 
MM>  to  one,  sometimes  to  the  other.  The  mares  of  the  Aneyza  have  the 
i^glitkku  of  boing  the  largest  and  most  powerful,  but  as  the  two  tribes 

R  always  at  war.  plundering  and  robbing  one  another  almost  daily,  their 

gmaaw  oontiiiually  changing  owners. 
Tte  fMMUt  Sheikh  of  the  Gcbel  Shammar,  Ibu  Keshid,  has,  I  am  in- 


i 


Chap.  XY] 


AJtXB  BORSB8. 


formed,  a  very  olioico  stud  of  mares  of  the  finest  breeds,  and  their  reputa- 
tion has  spread  far  and  wide  over  the  Desert.  The  Nawab  of  Oiide,  the 
£kbal-cd-Doulah,  a  good  judge  of  horses,  who  had  visited  many  of  the 
tribes,  and  had  made  the  pilgrimage  to  the  holy  cities  by  the  little  fre- 
quented route  through  the  interior  of  Nedjd,  assured  me  that  the  finest 
horses  he  had  ever  seen  were  in  the  possession  of  the  Shereef  of  Mecca. 
The  Indian  market  is  chiefly  supplied  hy  tiie  Montefik  tribes  inhabiting  the 
banks  of  the  lower  Euplirattes  ;  but  the  purity  of  their  stock  has  been  neg- 
lected in  consequence  of  the  great  dt-mand,  »nil  a  Moiitehk  horse  is  not  val- 
ued by  the  true  Bedouin.  Horse-dealers,  generally  of  the  mixed  Arab  tribe 
of  Agayl,  pay  periodical  visits  to  the  Shanimar  and  Aneyza  to  purchase  colts 
for  exportation  to  India.  They  buy  horses  of  high  caste,  which  frequently 
sell  for  large  sums  at  Bombay.  The  dealers  pay.  in  the  Desert,  from  30^ 
to  150/.  for  colls  of  two,  three,  and  four  years.  The  Agayles  attach  less 
importance  to  blood  than  the  Bedouins,  and  provided  the  horse  has  points 
which  seem  suited  to  the  Indian  market,  they  rarely  ask  his  pedigree. 
The  Arabs  hence  believe  that  Europeans  know  nothing  of  blood,  which 
with  them  is  (he  first  consideration. 

The  horees  thus  purchased  are  sent  to  Bombay  by  native  vessels  at  a 
very  considerable  risk,  whole  cargoes  being  lost  or  thrown  overboard  dur- 
ing storms  every  year.  The  trade  is  consequently  very  precarions,  and  less 
flourishing  now  than  it  used  to  be.  With  the  exception  of  one  or  two 
groat  dealers  at  Baghdad  and  Busrah,  most  of  those  who  have  been  en- 
gaged in  it  have  been  ruined. 

The  Arab  horse  is  more  remarkable  for  its  exquisite  symmetry  and  bean- 
tifiil  proportions,  united  with  wonderful  powers  of  endurance,  than  for  ex- 
traordinary speed.  I  duubt  whether  any  Arab  of  the  best  blood  has  ever 
been  brought  to  England.  The  ditEculty  of  obtaining  them  is  so  great, 
that  they  are  scarcely  ever  seen  beyond  the  limits  of  the  Desert. 

Their  color  is  generally  white,  light  or  darlc^rey,  light  chesnut,  and  bay, 
with  white  or  black  feet.  Black  is  exceedingly  rare,  and  I  never  remem- 
ber to  have  seen  dun,  sorrel,  or  dapple.  I  refer,  of  course,  to  the  true-bred 
Arab,  and  not  to  the  Turcoman  or  to  Kurdish  and  Turkish  races,  which 
are  a  cross  between  the  Arab  and  Porsiau. 

Their  average  heit,'ht  is  from  H  hands  to  14  J,  rarely  reaching  15  ;  1 
have  only  seen  one  marc  that  exceeded  it.  Notwithstanding  the  smallness 
of  their  stature  they  often  possesg  great  strength  and  courage.  I  was  cred- 
ibly informed  that  a  celebrated  marc  of  the  Manekia  breed,  now  dead,  car- 
ried two  men  in  chain  aimour  beyond  the  reach  of  their  Aneyza  pursuers. 
But  their  most  remarkable  and  valuable  quality  is  the  power  of  perform- 
ing long  and  arduous  marches  upon  the  smallest  possible  allowance  of  food 
and  water.  It  is  only  the  mare  of  the  wealthy  Bedouin  that  gets  even  a 
regular  feed  of  about